Hey guys I have browsed the site and am mystified by my problem. I have power at the battery but none to anything else. If I jump the solenoid relay the car cranks fine but no start. Also no power to the interior or exterior lights. Not even brake lights. The ignition switch is also dead. Where do I start?
Hi,
It could be a blown fusible link. The fusible link is a last ditch safety fuse. It is located between the 5/16" battery stud terminal on the starter relay and one of the bulk head connector pins. The original should be blue in color and often has a molded tag saying "fuse" or "link". Some times they corrode open with age or it did its job and melted due to a major short circuit somewhere.
This is it. How do I test it? Also it is part of the bulk connector. How would I replace it?
It would be part of the bulkhead connector. Ohm it out out with a meter to see if it is blown.
Replace it by buying a new one like this.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-Fusible-Link-Universal-Type-/121944709080?hash=item1c647897d8:g:YzUAAOSwjVVViDbR&vxp=mtr
Yours may look different
Thanks guys. I will work on it today.
Wont hurt to check ammeter connections
I pulled and stripped the link. It is fine. I will get a replacement and start looking under the dash.
Can I just disconnect my ammeter? After browsing the forums I feel it may be the culprit. Also I would not miss it.
You cant just take the wires off it and tape them up, as the circuit needs to be complete for just about everything else to work.
Easiest thing is to bypass it by putting both wires on the same post....doesnt matter which side.
Or take both wires off completely, runs a small nut and bolt through to tie them together and wrap it all up good with electrical tape... either way.
I've had a couple issues with stock ammeters so I always bypass them and then add a voltage gauge instead.
Before you jump to the conclusions of the ammeter being the culprit like most do, please check your bulkhead connector as well. The "J" cavity which is the large red wire and the "P" cavity which is the large black wire on the dash side and the blue fusible link on the engine compartment side are the weak points due to the high current flow going thru them. They heat up and melt the walls of the cavity. Then corrosion sets in making them prone for a poor connection.
Below are pics of my OEM bulkhead connector after removing all of the wires. It has the typical melted out J & P ports.
Thanks VegasCharger. I already checked that and all the connections are good. I actually had the car completely rewired with YearOne harnesses about 13 years ago.
yea, most bypass the ammeter. At least you have anew harness, but in an original design, moisture is the enemy
Quote from: Danny Gutierrez on April 14, 2016, 06:10:09 AM
Thanks VegasCharger. I already checked that and all the connections are good. I actually had the car completely rewired with YearOne harnesses about 13 years ago.
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Update. Pulled the dash and bypassed the ammeter. I now have power! Interior and exterior lights are working. She starts with starting fluid but dies. She has been sitting in the garage for over a year so the carb probably needs to be freshened up. Thanks for the help guys. Oh where can I get a stock looking volt gauge?
Good deal.
Stock looking voltage gauge/ :scratchchin: I dunno
Quote from: crj1968 on April 15, 2016, 07:46:26 PM
Good deal.
Stock looking voltage gauge/ :scratchchin: I dunno
Well at least a decent alternative. I realize I am way behind with this electric stuff. I figured this was common stuff.
Amp gauge always where I check for trouble first
You can replace you old gauge with a new OER brand ALT gauge that still works as the factory intended. They are rated higher at 60 amp over the factory 40 amp. The other option is to send an ALT gauge to Redline for modification to a VOLT gauge.
If the car sat for a year or so don't be upset if you find it needs the carb removed to be cleaned. They can develop a varnish from modern fuel after sitting around not being used.