what do you think my car is worth ?? It is almost ready for paint , comes with Alum wing , operational headlight doors , comes with no motor . I have Hemi 4 speed and 11 inch bellhousing and 8.75 posi rear . Body had new floors , qtrs , Vega plug, U.S car tool sub connectors , Paint it , buy a Hemi , and have a bad ass car !!
Larry
Good Luck on the sale.. Looks like a great start................ Hopefully it'll go to a good home...........
Troy
I think you should paint it, and keep it. or store it away for the summer and go boating because you might have the itch to finish it when boating season is over.
Didn't you already list it last summer/fall?
What year is the Charger?
What was the original engine?
Did you put on the full AMD type quarters or those cheap partials?
Any pics of the metal work, floor pans and trunk pan install?
Dave
It was a 70 , it has no engine . They are skins . I do restoration work for a living , everything is RIGHT !!
Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
Dave
GO AWAY JUNIOR !!!!!!!!
will post much more later , Rene has viewed this car If your a good Body guy , the Skins are easy to install , sure the full Qtrs are nice , but years ago we didn't have a choice Cupcake .
Larry
Need some closeups of your work Buttercup. How much more Taiwanese sheetmetal went into this creation? Does it have the original wheelhouses and quarter extensions?
Again what was the original drivetrain?
Was it a A/C car?
Does it have an A/C firewall?
Does it have a 26 inch rad support?
Need some good pics and better answers to give you an idea of what it might be worth...unless of course you have something to hide?
Too bad you had to go with the skins buttercup....how long have you been working on this unfinished project?
Dave
Quote from: Beep Beep Dave on April 22, 2008, 08:29:38 AM
Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
Dave
The qtrs have to go! plus there's bondo or putty on that fiberglass nose, in the sun's heat, thats gonna lift, or shift causing problems on the surface, plus if that block of wood is still lanimated under the nose skin, without a layer of polyester filler sandwiched between it, it will cause transfer lines to form on the noses surface once exposed to the sun's heat, plus the cut you made in the sides of the nose, and reglassed, will return as "shadowed" lines and most likely crack, as it ages, fiberglass is very unique in it's properties, and if you violate them, you pay the price down the road, now before you jump on me for stateing this, I used to work for ERA reproductions in Conn. making Cobra kit car bodies for 10 years, and I know the pitfalls to avoid working with fiberglass, so a fair price, knowing what defiencies exsist, and the fact that the plug is a vega plug, not correct in apperance, I would start with $15000, seriously, seeing theres no driveline, no interior, and "some" rework to do, in the real world outside of this forum, that's the starting price of your project, I've seen too many abandoned projects like this over the years, and passed on them, because the rework is usally more time and dollar consuming than buying original or top of the line repros to start with in the beginning, one just has to look at all the kit car projects unfinished out there, the main causes are taking on a project over your head, lack of proper fabricating skills, not having a clue that the project needed a budget from the start, a well as a wallet to supply it, and combine all this with the amount of time needed to complete the project and interest goes down the drain, and before you know it, you want out :Twocents:
wow I think cupcake is getting alittle of his own medicine, thrown back at him :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :smilielol:
:popcrn:
:popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn:
Fiberglass is Polyester , body Filler is the same , all the work I did I used Vinylester , twice the price of Polyester that are used on your body's
I'm not new to Fiberglass , been laying up boats for years . Every boat built on this Fucking planet has wood stringers glassed in with no problem . If you think you can build a car today with no Body filler , you really have your head up your Ass !!!!!! You too , go away !!
Larry, why do you want to give up on the car when it's this close to being done?
I have been doing restoration work for 20 years , an AMX 390 just took best of show last year at the Nationals . Lets see your work ???
Quote from: daytonalo on April 22, 2008, 01:22:35 AM
what do you think my car is worth ?? It is almost ready for paint , comes with Alum wing , operational headlight doors , comes with no motor . I have Hemi 4 speed and 11 inch bellhousing and 8.75 posi rear . Body had new floors , qtrs , Vega plug, U.S car tool sub connectors , Paint it , buy a Hemi , and have a bad ass car !!
Larry
Larry, if I didn't have so much crap I'd be blowing off Carlisle this weekend & making a trip to the southern part of New Jersey to look at it. What it's worth on the market is, unfortunately, probably less than what you have into it. It's a lot harder to sell an unfinished car that still needs to be reassembled. I saw all your previous posts with the work you did, & aware of the before & after. A few years ago I gave up on hunting for a finished car & gathered most of what I needed to build one. I still need things, but not very much.
You also have a smaller potential market compared to some other cars, but I'd guess that it may be able to sell for somewhere between $7000 & $10,000 the way it sits. I'm sure if you added up your parts & labor it would be 2 to 3 times more than that. There's always ebay with a reserve you can live with to test it. :shruggy:
Want to make any trades? :D
So far you have the makings of a very good HLPAG ad...a couple of bad pics and a vague description :2thumbs:
All you need now is some orange paint and a lint free roller.
Good luck Buttercup :hah:
Dave
Quote from: Beep Beep Dave on April 22, 2008, 10:00:09 AM
So far you have the makings of a very good HLPAG ad...a couple of bad pics and a vague description :2thumbs:
All you need now is some orange paint and a lint free roller.
Good luck Buttercup :hah:
Dave
:lol:
I know you're probably busting his balls, but he's got tons of previous threads with a lot of pics showing the work he did on the car. I haven't seen it in person, but I have been following the project. :cheers:
Quote from: Beep Beep Dave on April 22, 2008, 10:00:09 AM
So far you have the makings of a very good HLPAG ad...a couple of bad pics and a vague description :2thumbs:
All you need now is some orange paint and a lint free roller.
Good luck Buttercup :hah:
Dave
:popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn:
Quote from: Old Moparz on April 22, 2008, 09:58:20 AM
but I'd guess that it may be able to sell for somewhere between $7000 & $10,000 the way it sits. I'm sure if you added up your parts & labor it would be 2 to 3 times more than that. There's always ebay with a reserve you can live with to test it. :shruggy:
Glad you didn't waste your gas to make the trip Bob. If I know Larry, he will want 30K for it right now. It would be nice to get a price range from him, but this is just another smoke blowing, useless post about a car he cannot or will not sell. Oh, and he's really showing his wonderful selling skills by taking the time to answer the questions he's been asked. :eek2:
I will burn it before I sell it for 7 k
I've seen the car and the body is straight as an arrow .you can not build one of these cars without some bondo . working headlights and a hollow aluminium wing . it's a great starting point for someone that wants to build a daytona. just having the nose mounted with working lights saves you a big headache.
good luck with what ever you decide. Rene
I'll give 5k for the working nose :Twocents:
Quote from: daytonalo on April 22, 2008, 10:05:25 AM
I will burn it before I sell it for 7 k
The operational nose alone is worth 5k not to mention the labor to install it.
And, I haven't figured out a way to repair dents without using at least some filler. Even applying several layers of primer is the same as using filler, especially when they're both polyester.
Larry, do you have a set of the 69 seats with headrests? I haven't seen any for sale recently for decent money.
Quote from: daytonalo on April 22, 2008, 10:05:25 AM
I will burn it before I sell it for 7 k
Well, if you burn it & there's a ton of black smoke we'll all know that you used a shitload of bondo. :lol:
This took a strange turn!!!! :scratchchin: :scratchchin:
Larry says he is thinking about selling his car, and ask what it is worth!! Ends up in a bunch of posts there everybody pretty much tells what piece of junk it is!!!
Then if somebody posts a picture of their car that they can run through, without opening the doors, and not even get sore shoulders, everybody says "hey........great project" :shruggy:
Guess you need to refrase your question to : If it was yours, and you were thinking of selling it, what would it go for??!!!!
I am also in the boat buisness, raced and buildt boats for 30 years, and vinylester IS a hell of a lot better than good old poyester. Better bite to surface, and a lot less schrink.
Quote from: daytonalo on April 22, 2008, 09:54:33 AM
Fiberglass is Polyester , body Filler is the same , all the work I did I used Vinylester , twice the price of Polyester that are used on your body's
I'm not new to Fiberglass , been laying up boats for years . Every boat built on this Fucking planet has wood stringers glassed in with no problem . If you think you can build a car today with no Body filler , you really have your head up your Ass !!!!!! You too , go away !!
I worked for 15 years laying up boat hulls for Shannon Boats, in Bristol RI, before moving to Conn. and laying up Cobra bodies for ERA, compairing a boat hull to the thin skinned stinger nose, is like comparing bridge girders to pushrods in your engine, and if you truly know hull design and layup, your aware of double hull foam construction, so the transoms and stringers don't stress the outer hull skin, and yes it is possible to build a car without using bondo, what did they use back in the day, maybe Mr Whuppie can take you back in the "way back machine" and show you how a Duesenburg was built, or a lowly model A Ford there was no "bondo" then "cupcake" :icon_smile_blackeye:
Quote from: Zinc on April 22, 2008, 11:24:56 AM
Quote from: daytonalo on April 22, 2008, 09:54:33 AM
Fiberglass is Polyester , body Filler is the same , all the work I did I used Vinylester , twice the price of Polyester that are used on your body's
I'm not new to Fiberglass , been laying up boats for years . Every boat built on this Fucking planet has wood stringers glassed in with no problem . If you think you can build a car today with no Body filler , you really have your head up your Ass !!!!!! You too , go away !!
I worked for 15 years laying up boat hulls for Shannon Boats, in Bristol RI, before moving to Conn. and laying up Cobra bodies for ERA, compairing a boat hull to the thin skinned stinger nose, is like comparing bridge girders to pushrods in your engine, and if you truly know hull design and layup, your aware of double hull foam construction, so the transoms and stringers don't stress the outer hull skin, and yes it is possible to build a car without using bondo, what did they use back in the day, maybe Mr Whuppie can take you back in the "way back machine" and show you how a Duesenburg was built, or a lowly model A Ford there was no "bondo" then "cupcake" :icon_smile_blackeye:
Its Mr. Peabody!! :nana: :icon_smile_big:
lets call underdog or tennesse tuxido and chumly
No need to get your panties all bunched up Larri - BTW are you by chance a blonde?
I will try and make the questions easier for you to follow :brickwall:
1. What was the original drivetrain? 318? 383? 440? /6? auto? 4-speed?
2. Do you have some fairy dust to spread over the tranny tunnel or have you already put in the 4-speed hump?
3. Was the car a factory air conditioned?
4. Does it have an factory air conditioned firewall?
5. Does it have a 26 inch rad support? Was it there or did you have to install it?
6. Besides the Quarters how much other repop sheetmetal did you have to use?
7. Did you go with 1969 or 1970 Quarters? (edit forget this question as the quarters as they need to come off anyway)
And yes I rechecked who started this thread and asked what their car is worth? You asked for opinions and I asked for more info.
If you have a predetermined answer in mind please let me know so I can agree with you before you get yourself upset any more.
This is starting to remind me of the time an old girlfriend asked me if these jeans made her look fat and I said no you do that all by yourself....that didn't go over too well either. And this is heading the same way :icon_smile_blackeye:
Barring all of the above do you have a link to somewhere where all the pics are posted? I've always wanted a Daytona and if the price is right I'd be happy with a well done clone. I have a nice factory sunroof Charger roof looking for a home.
Dave
Quote from: Old Moparz on April 22, 2008, 10:02:55 AM
Quote from: Beep Beep Dave on April 22, 2008, 10:00:09 AM
So far you have the makings of a very good HLPAG ad...a couple of bad pics and a vague description :2thumbs:
All you need now is some orange paint and a lint free roller.
Good luck Buttercup :hah:
Dave
:lol:
I know you're probably busting his balls, but he's got tons of previous threads with a lot of pics showing the work he did on the car. I haven't seen it in person, but I have been following the project. :cheers:
Do you have any links saved, I tried searching his posts but there is only soo much fluff one guy can get threw in one day. It would be nice to get down to the meat and pototoes so to speak.
Dave
I worked for 15 years laying up boat hulls for Shannon Boats, in Bristol RI, before moving to Conn. and laying up Cobra bodies for ERA, compairing a boat hull to the thin skinned stinger nose, is like comparing bridge girders to pushrods in your engine, and if you truly know hull design and layup, your aware of double hull foam construction, so the transoms and stringers don't stress the outer hull skin, and yes it is possible to build a car without using bondo, what did they use back in the day, maybe Mr Whuppie can take you back in the "way back machine" and show you how a Duesenburg was built, or a lowly model A Ford there was no "bondo" then "cupcake" :icon_smile_blackeye:
Quote
I can't even believe that you would compare the cars of the 60's and 70's to the Duesenburgs or model A's. I've worked the metal on those old cars and yes, I've been able to remove dents and not use filler, but we're talking about sheet metal that is almost twice as thick as the later stuff. Big difference. You wouldn't have lasted too long working in my body shop at the dealership. I had those old guys coming in looking for a job that bragged about how they had been bodymen forever and knew how to work lead. I thanked them for coming by and showed them the way to the door. Working that old thick sheet metal and slinging lead won't get you too far nowadays when working on the new stuff.
The sheetmetal on the 69 Chargers resembles the metal of today more than the metal in those cars of the 30's. :Twocents:
Here's a few:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6739.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,8271.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,12157.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,20786.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38262.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38855.0.html
Troy
those are all great threads I went back and read them all, I cant believe larry you would sell this car after doing all that fantastic work !
I love all my cars and you will have to tear them out of my cold dead hands ! :Twocents:
Quote from: Troy on April 22, 2008, 02:13:17 PM
Here's a few:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,6739.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,8271.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,12157.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,20786.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38262.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,38855.0.html
Troy
Thanks Troy, I will check them all out later. A quick scan through and I don't see any engine compartment pics?
Dave
I think that the mentioned prices between $10-15K would be the right ball park numbers. I'm going to assume however that he has a figure in mind of around $30K or so, due to the previous thoughts of selling it once all completed with the crate HEMI for over $100K. Which I don't think would happen anyways, but that was the idea.
People aren't trying to low ball you by any means by saying $10K, or less. Like it or not #'s matter just as much if not more than quality work to many many many people. I'd take a rough as a cob real Daytona any day of week for the same money as a done completed cloned car. Just a simple fact.
$12000--------$15000 :slap:
Just being realistic. If a decent driver car with a 318 in it would currently be going for $12-15K , why should a rolling shell of a clone be any more expensive? To me, SHOULDN'T BE. :pity:
4 speed tunnel, 26 " rad , installed outer Wheel houses and trunk floor . Let me hear that is all crap metal as well . I have worn many hats , I know boats , I race offshore in Class 5 with the OPA . My main focus right now is getting my 32 Skater in the water . Oh , let me hear you tell me the boats you build are better than a Kevlar -Vinlyester 32 Skater !! PEACE TO ALL , THIS IS IT FOR A WHILE !!! I WILL SELL EVERYTHING FOR MY CAR FOR 25 k , INCLUDING HEMI 4 SPEED AND BELLHOUSING . E-MAIL ME @lob77@comcast.net or 609-315-2640 :icon_smile_big:
Does that price also include the engine to go along with the HEMI 4 speed, and bellhousing?
A 472 Hemi ? , 16 k
I don't know boats.
Yes that 1st generation sheetmetal is all crap - you asked. The newer AMD stuff is night and day better. Original sheetmetal still trumps all though. Do you have any pics of how you joined up the lower quarters and the trunk extensions? That usually separates the boys from the men.
I personally wouldn't part with $25k of my money for that but if you come down from that and can answer some basic questions it might be worth a look.
I'd still like to know what it started out as drivetrain wise and if it was an A/C car :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: but I must not have the latest decoder ring :shruggy:
Good day sir.
Dave
:slap:
Quote from: 69_500 on April 22, 2008, 03:41:00 PM
Just being realistic. If a decent driver car with a 318 in it would currently be going for $12-15K , why should a rolling shell of a clone be any more expensive? To me, SHOULDN'T BE. :pity:
Considering he's done the engineering to get the nose mounted fitted and working, that's worth something. That's worth how many months of messing around doing it yourself? Plus you've got the value of the parts. How much someone is willing to pay for all that, I can't say. Most of us here try to do things on the cheap.
Overall, it has the potential to be one of the nicest clones out there.
I'll agree with that Doug, in that it is a fully functional nose cone. Which in and of itself, is something to be pretty proud of. However a lot of people are like you said, and on the cheap. So if they can cobble together a nose cone, that looks half decent for a fraction of the price then that is what a lot of people would choose as well.
Personally I think its a pretty good looking car, if your wanting to do a clone. Its definitely something to work with. Its not finished so you can still do it your way, if you so choose to change anything. Quite a few of the hard things are already done. IE nose cone, and rear window plug are already installed.
The problem with trying to sell an unfinished car is that the guy that buys it will probably be a do-it-yourselfer. The problem with that is the do-it-yourselfer will more than likely feel like he can do the whole project himself for less money. Never mind the difficulty of what's been done to the car. Obviously, guys are buying those so called complete do-it-yourself kits all of the time and not one of them has a clue as to what lies ahead.
I hope that Larry gets his price for the car. Somewhere out there is a guy smart enough to realize that Larry has done the hard part. The rest of it is simple resto type work that any decent bodyman or bodyshop can do.
Larry, when I said $7K to $10K, I was basing it on what someone might be willing to shell out for it if you wanted it gone. Danny (69_500) makes a good point when he said it's not a real one, just a replica. The cars that tend to get the highest prices are the originals, & the majority of the people don't spend serious money on one that isn't. (Yes, there are some exceptions, but in general.) I know what it would cost to duplicate the car you have, & you can't for the $7K to $10K I mentioned.
If you really want to sell it, you have to compile all your photos in stages & be descriptive with details. Posting it on several sites & ebay will be way better than a buried price in a WIW thread on an aero forum. I was on the phone a couple of years ago pricing airline tickets to go out west with a deposit for a Daytona replica, but someone beat me to it. That's one of the reasons I ended up buying my '70 Road Runner & started accumulating Daytona parts for my Charger.
I'd be seriously interested in yours if I didn't buy my Road Runner. I'd sell my '68 Charger & all my Daytona parts too. I'd love to see you keep it & to see your car finished. Throw a cover over it until boating season is over, although I never could understand the need for boating over cars......LOL. You'd be much better off finishing it to get a good price & not sell it as a project, people grow tired of having too much work. They also don't always have the money to pay someone to finish it. :Twocents:
sell or not to sell that is the question???? :shruggy: :shruggy:
Quote from: Zinc on April 22, 2008, 09:29:11 AM
Quote from: Beep Beep Dave on April 22, 2008, 08:29:38 AM
Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
Dave
The qtrs have to go! plus there's bondo or putty on that fiberglass nose, in the sun's heat, thats gonna lift, or shift causing problems on the surface, plus if that block of wood is still lanimated under the nose skin, without a layer of polyester filler sandwiched between it, it will cause transfer lines to form on the noses surface once exposed to the sun's heat, plus the cut you made in the sides of the nose, and reglassed, will return as "shadowed" lines and most likely crack, as it ages, fiberglass is very unique in it's properties, and if you violate them, you pay the price down the road, now before you jump on me for stateing this, I used to work for ERA reproductions in Conn. making Cobra kit car bodies for 10 years, and I know the pitfalls to avoid working with fiberglass, so a fair price, knowing what defiencies exsist, and the fact that the plug is a vega plug, not correct in apperance, I would start with $15000, seriously, seeing theres no driveline, no interior, and "some" rework to do, in the real world outside of this forum, that's the starting price of your project, I've seen too many abandoned projects like this over the years, and passed on them, because the rework is usally more time and dollar consuming than buying original or top of the line repros to start with in the beginning, one just has to look at all the kit car projects unfinished out there, the main causes are taking on a project over your head, lack of proper fabricating skills, not having a clue that the project needed a budget from the start, a well as a wallet to supply it, and combine all this with the amount of time needed to complete the project and interest goes down the drain, and before you know it, you want out :Twocents:
Sorry but most of this is bull. This is skeptical theory at best. Body filler bonds better with glass than anything including metal. My nose has body filler on it and it has been in 100+ sun beating down heat and not one flaw after 5 years of ever other day driving for 6 month out of a year.
Blocks of wood laminated underneath can cause shadow lines to bleed through, but that does not mean it will. There are variables that can prevent this and knowing how these noses are made I do not see this to be a problem. These noses are very well made and as well as thick. I have worked with glass for 30 years and your skepticism is a tad bit paranoid.
There is nothing wrong with those quarters and replacing an entire quarter is not always the best way to go.
Theory can be debated and back and forth and goes nowhere. Facts are revealed in reality and in real time. Here is my nose.
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/3082/pict0682lx7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7334/pict0687uz7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/8092/newawesomeonear1.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
And what car do you have?
still love your car everytime i see it dane :Twocents:
Looks like a non-A/C firewall. More links (FYI - I'm just using the advanced search):
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9015.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10621.0.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,18911.0.html
Troy
Quote from: Daytona Guy on April 22, 2008, 11:36:34 PM
Quote from: Zinc on April 22, 2008, 09:29:11 AM
Quote from: Beep Beep Dave on April 22, 2008, 08:29:38 AM
Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
D
The qtrs have to go! plus there's bondo or putty on that fiberglass nose, in the sun's heat, thats gonna lift, or shift causing problems on the surface, plus if that block of wood is still lanimated under the nose skin, without a layer of polyester filler sandwiched between it, it will cause transfer lines to form on the noses surface once exposed to the sun's heat, plus the cut you made in the sides of the nose, and reglassed, will return as "shadowed" lines and most likely crack, as it ages, fiberglass is very unique in it's properties, and if you violate them, you pay the price down the road, now before you jump on me for stateing this, I used to work for ERA reproductions in Conn. making Cobra kit car bodies for 10 years, and I know the pitfalls to avoid working with fiberglass, so a fair price, knowing what defiencies exsist, and the fact that the plug is a vega plug, not correct in apperance, I would start with $15000, seriously, seeing theres no driveline, no interior, and "some" rework to do, in the real world outside of this forum, that's the starting price of your project, I've seen too many abandoned projects like this over the years, and passed on them, because the rework is usally more time and dollar consuming than buying original or top of the line repros to start with in the beginning, one just has to look at all the kit car projects unfinished out there, the main causes are taking on a project over your head, lack of proper fabricating skills, not having a clue that the project needed a budget from the start, a well as a wallet to supply it, and combine all this with the amount of time needed to complete the project and interest goes down the drain, and before you know it, you want out :Twocents:
Sorry but most of this is bull. This is skeptical theory at best. Body filler bonds better with glass than anything including metal. My nose has body filler on it and it has been in 100+ sun beating down heat and not one flaw after 5 years of ever other day driving for 6 month out of a year.
Blocks of wood laminated underneath can cause shadow lines to bleed through, but that does not mean it will. There are variables that can prevent this and knowing how these noses are made I do not see this to be a problem. These noses are very well made and as well as thick. I have worked with glass for 30 years and your skepticism is a tad bit paranoid.
There is nothing wrong with those quarters and replacing an entire quarter is not always the best way to go.
Theory can be debated and back and forth and goes nowhere. Facts are revealed in reality and in real time. Here is my nose.
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/3082/pict0682lx7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7334/pict0687uz7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/8092/newawesomeonear1.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
And what car do you have?
Dane, regarding wood buried in fiberglass, dose your yellow daytona clone have wooden homemade light buckets, like the red daytona you use to own, just curious?
Larry, how does the car connect to the cart you have here? Is it just sitting on dowel pins at factory hole locations in the frame?
(http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=10621.0;id=16778;image)
QuoteDane, regarding wood buried in fiberglass, dose your yellow Daytona clone have wooden homemade light buckets, like the red Daytona you use to own, just curious?
My red one did not have wood buckets so I am not sure where that came from, and my Yellow one does not either - My Yellow one has my own design glass buckets and aluminum headlight doors (Red Daytona's was glass) but they are completely dif from factory. I do not even need buckets but I have them so that they look good when opened – darkens the cavity. My pivot point is at the top of the headlight door and only opens 4" by a linier actuator (15 lbs).
(http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/7785/newnoselik3.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/4272/redheadlightsns5.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
Quote from: moparstuart on April 23, 2008, 07:51:57 AM
still love your car everytime i see it dane :Twocents:
Thanks Man!
When I saw it many years ago.It was a X9 Black Charger 500 318 W/ AC with tan interior.Then I saw it in the paper for sale.And mentioned that car. Daytonalo later obtained it .And I supplied various pieces from a Non AC heater box .To Daytona/parking lights headlight bolts etc
Quote from: Daytona Guy on April 22, 2008, 11:36:34 PM
Quote from: Zinc on April 22, 2008, 09:29:11 AM
Quote from: Beep Beep Dave on April 22, 2008, 08:29:38 AM
Ok then let see some pics. Your right and my right may have different definitions. For example I wouldn't have used those awful junk quarters...they would need to be redone. Just want to know what else would need to be redone before I put a number on it.
And again - What was the original drivetrain combo?
Dave
The qtrs have to go! plus there's bondo or putty on that fiberglass nose, in the sun's heat, thats gonna lift, or shift causing problems on the surface, plus if that block of wood is still lanimated under the nose skin, without a layer of polyester filler sandwiched between it, it will cause transfer lines to form on the noses surface once exposed to the sun's heat, plus the cut you made in the sides of the nose, and reglassed, will return as "shadowed" lines and most likely crack, as it ages, fiberglass is very unique in it's properties, and if you violate them, you pay the price down the road, now before you jump on me for stateing this, I used to work for ERA reproductions in Conn. making Cobra kit car bodies for 10 years, and I know the pitfalls to avoid working with fiberglass, so a fair price, knowing what defiencies exsist, and the fact that the plug is a vega plug, not correct in apperance, I would start with $15000, seriously, seeing theres no driveline, no interior, and "some" rework to do, in the real world outside of this forum, that's the starting price of your project, I've seen too many abandoned projects like this over the years, and passed on them, because the rework is usally more time and dollar consuming than buying original or top of the line repros to start with in the beginning, one just has to look at all the kit car projects unfinished out there, the main causes are taking on a project over your head, lack of proper fabricating skills, not having a clue that the project needed a budget from the start, a well as a wallet to supply it, and combine all this with the amount of time needed to complete the project and interest goes down the drain, and before you know it, you want out :Twocents:
Sorry but most of this is bull. This is skeptical theory at best. Body filler bonds better with glass than anything including metal. My nose has body filler on it and it has been in 100+ sun beating down heat and not one flaw after 5 years of ever other day driving for 6 month out of a year.
Blocks of wood laminated underneath can cause shadow lines to bleed through, but that does not mean it will. There are variables that can prevent this and knowing how these noses are made I do not see this to be a problem. These noses are very well made and as well as thick. I have worked with glass for 30 years and your skepticism is a tad bit paranoid.
There is nothing wrong with those quarters and replacing an entire quarter is not always the best way to go.
Theory can be debated and back and forth and goes nowhere. Facts are revealed in reality and in real time. Here is my nose.
(http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/3082/pict0682lx7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/7334/pict0687uz7.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/8092/newawesomeonear1.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
And what car do you have?
you have an amazing car sir.
with the work he did on the car..i think Larry's car would be great for someone to finish it..I would keep the car Larry and do it later in the year..if not put a value on what you want out of it.. :2thumbs:
I love your car, seen it on here several times before, looks like good work to me (worked as a Bodyman). I am actively looking for a clone, have a wanted ad running. Is there any way at all you have access to a 318 to throw in it and get it running? I'm serious, can you call me? Dallas @ 250-554-0403 (PACIFIC). Pacific means no 6AM calls from the East Coast (sorry, not sure where you are, had too many early calls). Thanks
QuoteI would keep the car Larry and do it later in the year
:yesnod: he's right you go through this every boat season
does it have the rear vega plug?
Yes it has the vega plug .I got it for him.And he had access to my original daytona for more correct info and detail
so is anyone making an offer on that daytona...it's worth every penny he put in it... :2thumbs:
Quote from: petercharger on April 25, 2008, 09:47:21 PM
so is anyone making an offer on that daytona...it's worth every penny he put in it... :2thumbs:
If i was flush with cash i would consider it. I dont care about the numbers or quarter panels or the IQ of the current owner*, i just want a wing car. (second to a C500 ofcourse) :icon_smile_big:
-------------------------------------------- Mike D style :icon_smile_big:
I for-see my generation (except for Danny) not caring about numbers matching or authentic vs clone, I just want a wing car someday, and if its a clone so what? I'll drive the wheels off it just like i do my C500 (with a hillside hemi). :icon_smile_big:
Paul
in St. Paul
* that was shot... :2guns: I will someday have half the fabrication skills of our professional resident Daytona critic. :2thumbs:
QuoteI'll drive the wheels off it just like i do my C500 (with a hillside hemi).
:cheers: :cheers:
Quote from: BigBlockSam on April 25, 2008, 11:42:48 PM
Quote I'll drive the wheels off it just like i do my C500 (with a hillside hemi).
:cheers: :cheers:
Oh you like that do you!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx3kKXDrtpM&feature=related :icon_smile_big:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDKnynsMIho&NR=1 :drive:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vheP74NGw8s&feature=related
MsMopar cutting it up!
Someone tell me when the soap opera is over.
Quote from: 1970 RT/SE on April 26, 2008, 07:50:24 AM
Someone tell me when the soap opera is over.
never but less drama after boat season
larry did you end up selling the car...thanks :drool5: :2thumbs: :popcrn:
MANY OF MY FRIENDS WHO DRIVE OTHER MAKES ARE GETTING A KICK OUT OF HOW YOU GUY'S ARE SLAMMING ME , GUESS I DESERVE IT !! ANYWAY , CAR IS LISTED UNDER CARS FOR SALE , MY # IS 609-315-2640 .
Larry
Larry very nice work!!!...wish I had the time/skills to finish it.
3X
Will sell everything with this car for 25k , just paint and install your engine .609-315-2640
Larry
Quote from: daytonalo on May 02, 2008, 12:57:01 PM
Will sell everything with this car for 25k , just paint and install your engine .609-315-2640
Larry
Will you drop the price more if we all sit on our hands another two weeks? :smilielol:
Please God, let me win Mega Millions tomorrow!
Quote from: DougSchellinger on May 02, 2008, 04:00:07 PM
Quote from: daytonalo on May 02, 2008, 12:57:01 PM
Will sell everything with this car for 25k , just paint and install your engine .609-315-2640
Larry
Will you drop the price more if we all sit on our hands another two weeks? :smilielol:
Boat gas is getting expensive. :shruggy:
how about we start the bidding in this thread? :popcrn:
Quote from: xs29l8b on May 02, 2008, 08:59:57 PM
how about we start the bidding in this thread? :popcrn:
$1 Bob!
1.01 DREW !!
A pair of russian boots...
A genuine Disney souvenir pirate hat just like Johnny Depp's so he can look extra cool this summer riding around in the boat.
I really didnt want to go this far but that last offer is hard to beat...
Ok here we go, a pair of russian boots....WITH laces.
Ooo, this is gonna be like avoiding the snipers on e-bay huh? Okay, a pirate hat AND a plastic sword.
bringing out the big guns are we? :icon_smile_tongue:
A Russian mail order bride to fill the boots, but Im keeping the laces.
Quote from: Ghoste on May 02, 2008, 09:28:53 PM
A genuine Disney souvenir pirate hat just like Johnny Depp's so he can look extra cool this summer riding around in the boat.
How about an eye-patch to go with that pirate hat, so he can look "swash-buckling" in the captains seat, babes always go for the "badboy" look! :icon_smile_blackeye:
Ive got a seat cushion farted on by a previous president
I'll trade you a 66 charger in boxs for it :)
anyone on this site looking at buying his car?? seems like a good deal :rofl: :scratchchin:
Its a tough market out there right now. Unfinished clone projects generally don't bring big $$$. It would be interesting to see what it could do on Ebay. Can't blame a guy for asking what he believes it is worth...he just needs to find one guy out there who agrees with him.
It would be nice to see him finish it up and enjoy it now that most of the hard work is done. It was real interesting reading through all the topics that have been posted about the car over the years and watching it come together. Sad to see him throw in the towel now.
I could see it as a F6 Bright Green car with white stripe and white guts :2thumbs:
Dave
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........BB1's Hemi is for sale up the street...........Hemi Daytona project.................. :scratchchin:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230250241111&rd=1
Quote from: MOPARHOUND! on May 07, 2008, 03:05:35 PM
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm..........BB1's Hemi is for sale up the street...........Hemi Daytona project.................. :scratchchin:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=013&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=230250241111&rd=1
that hemi would look so good in the birdable , alas no money
So,the know-it-all who bashes every guy who owns a daytona or builds one... never even FINISHED one?????? :nana:
Where do you get off? That piece of crap in your garage is useless once you take the nose off, 5K MAX :smilielol:
QuoteSo,the know-it-all who bashes every guy who owns a daytona or builds one... never even FINISHED one???
Where do you get off? That piece of crap in your garage is useless once you take the nose off, 5K MAX
your first post here is to bash someone. :shruggy: WTF
Larry helped a lot of people here with there projects . who have you helped here. Rene
Quote from: BigBlockSam on May 11, 2008, 10:28:30 AM
Quote So,the know-it-all who bashes every guy who owns a daytona or builds one... never even FINISHED one???
Where do you get off? That piece of crap in your garage is useless once you take the nose off, 5K MAX
your first post here is to bash someone. :shruggy: WTF
Larry helped a lot of people here with there projects . who have you helped here. Rene
My money says that's one of Larry's Chebby friends busting on him. :lol:
If I'm wrong, then I'll give Larry $5K for it. :D
:smilielol:
he will start working on it and show updated pics of the progress this fall.
Thanks guy's !!! But I might paint it and throw it on E-bay . One way or another it will be sold , I need two Mercury 300 Optimax's NOW !!
QuoteI need two Mercury 300 Optimax's NOW !!
Oh crap Larry!!! I sold one yesterday! 07, with just 9 hours on it.
How is a good deal on them in the US??
Quote from: daytonalo on May 11, 2008, 08:01:20 PM
Thanks guy's !!! But I might paint it and throw it on E-bay . One way or another it will be sold , I need two Mercury 300 Optimax's NOW !!
give it a high impact color, those will sell faster imo.
I need to be 20 inch offshore mids with Sportmasters
This car that old Larry is trying to rip people off on is now up to 28XXX, I called old Larry and I go the gut feeling he is hiding something sure as heck. He is evasive , a liar, and his car is obvious rust buckets as can be seen in the pictures. What a wreck! Remember he lives in New Jersey, where they use salt on roads as is obvious by his car or rather his pile of rusty metal on four rubber tires. Why does he still not have it done? Because he is not the boy he claims to be. Cold Day in Hell!
David thanks for Jerking me off for 1/2 hour !!! Evasive , You wouldn't shut the fuck up , on and on , I'm the best , Chip foose has nothing on me !!!can easily do what he can do !!!I had them all , I have this , I have that !! On and on , you were like a broken record !!! I hope the next person who wants the car can walk upright !!!! Most here know me and know what I'm capable !!!! A few on this board have seen this car , I'm going to finish body work and put it on E-bay , it is a great deal for 25 k I have helped many people out who are on a budget !!You ???? !!!!4 posts and you know it all !!! Go get your head out of the cow's ass your Inspecting !!! USDA Inspector , crock of shit !!!!. Most know that I'm not a bullshitter ,opinionated yes , no bullshitter !!!! ALL IN THIS SECTION , BEWARE OF THIS CLOWN !!!
Larry
this is as good as my wife's "days of our lives" she tivo's daily
Those that can...do. Those that can't...teach. I know that Larry's a doer and by doing he teaches. We've all learned a lot from this guy and now some new guy wants to bash him.
That's just not right. ;D
It's bad enough he trashes me , but he Jerked me off on the Phone !!!i I'm SO FUCKING PISSED OFF AT THIS KANSAS HILLBILLIE FUCK , I WISH I TAPED THIS HORSES ASS !!!I'm going to ask Troy to delete my post , I had enough !!!
Quote from: daytonalo on May 17, 2008, 09:39:51 PM
It's bad enough he trashes me , but he Jerked me off on the Phone !!!i I'm SO FUCKING PISSED OFF AT THIS KANSAS HILLBILLIE FUCK , I WISH I TAPED THIS HORSES ASS !!!I'm going to ask Troy to delete my post , I had enough !!!
At least you got jerked off on the deal... :shruggy:
Hi
Sorry to say something...
Daytonas are nice... but Im sure it would be cheaper for somebody to just buy a 69 shell and stick the daytona front on it... probbably even have a complete car for not much more than what you are asking for.
Also, I just read the thread you made, and well, it started with you asking what its worth, then somebody asking whats the original drive train and then hell broke loose on a normal question?
I dunno whats going on but reading it the way it reads... i think some people here have a few loose screws in there heads.
Maybe u can fill me on why a normal question deserved a crazy answer :)
No i dont want a stupid reply either so please, im just trying to work it out :cheers:
YOU DON'T CALL SOMEONE , SAY YOU WANT THE CAR FOR SURE THEN TURN AROUND AND TRASH ME . I PREFER TO BE SPOKEN DIRTY TO BEFORE GETTING JERKED OFF !!!!
Quote from: G-man on May 18, 2008, 03:10:52 AM
Hi
Sorry to say something...
Daytonas are nice... but Im sure it would be cheaper for somebody to just buy a 69 shell and stick the daytona front on it... probbably even have a complete car for not much more than what you are asking for.
You're kidding, right?
NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! THIS JERK-OFF CALLS ME ON FRIDAY , I WANT YOUR CAR , I'M THE BEST AROUND , CHIP FOOSE IS NOBODY , I CAN DO IT ALL , I REALLY WANT YOUR CAR !!!! THIS SCUM BAG DIDN'T STOP FOR A SECOND , YOU KNOW THE TYPE , YOU PUT THE PHONE DOWN AND COME BACK AND THEY ARE LIKE A BROKEN RECORD !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! NOW HE SAYS I'M HIDING SOMETHING ?????? HE WOULDN'T LET ME GET A WORD IN . LOOK I BUY AND SELL CARS EVERY DAY , I'M MO IDIOT , I KNEW ON THE PHONE I WAS DEALING WITH A HORSES ASS!!!! I KNEW HE HAD NO MONEY . WHAT COMES AROUND GOES AROUND , I WOULD LOVE TO MEET UP WITH THE DICK HEAD SOMEWHERE !!!!!!!
This went well... :eyes:
FYI: there's a reason that responses are not allowed in the Classifieds section. If you don't like the price then don't buy it. If you need more information then contact the seller directly. Deals are between the buyer and seller and I see no reason why anything about them needs to be public. I allow wing car related ads in this section primarily because of their specialized nature and so they don't get deleted during normal housekeeping. It really won't take much for me to reconsider that decision.
Troy