When I did the resto on my cars 10+ years ago I found that about 20% of the "new" parts either didn't work, didn't fit or were crap, I see little has changed. New base plate for Ramcharger hood warped and I just got the door actuator in today...rear hose tube bent, plus it's kinda on the cheap side but there's no alternative. Now of course they're going back but a good reminder to never STOCK PILE parts for a project, odds are a lot will not work and you will not be able to return them, just get and use parts as you go.
Just venting ;)
I here ya!
got console top plates for my 68 with a 4 speed, the first set I sent back as they were so wavy and littered with imperfections, for $600 I was expecting better. The second set from a different vendor was better but still not close to perfect.
Got a fuel filler trim ring from Year One, chrome work is shabby, wavy in spots. WTF!
Instrument cluster bezels, look pretty good, but by all means, don't touch the black part, it comes off like nothing. :rotz:
I guess I should be happy that these parts are out there vs searching for good originals as I didn't have much luck, but sheesh... do the brand X guys have the same issues?
Yup, paid more for USA made and my Trim Parts door handles look crappy after just a few years sitting under my carport. :eek2: Same with the new FUEL cap.
Don't get me started... :rotz:
What is REALLY annoying is I'll pay for quality parts. the old say "you get what you pay for" is true but seems we pay a premium for parts and often get 3rd rate crap
The repro industry on the whole has been slow to understand the change in the last 15 years. It's not the 1990s. We aren't looking for cheap ways to patch together raggedy cars anymore. Now we are spending loads of time & money and reconstructing whole cars from scratch. Very different scenario.
The hobby is also far more connected now. No more profiting off uninformed buyers. We tell each other all about a new part as soon as the first batch ships. If we don't like it then sales will STOP DEAD within a year and nothing short of a re-tool will revive the sales again. Either make something better than our existing options or don't bother making it.
Quote from: birdsandbees on April 15, 2016, 04:43:54 PM
Don't get me started... :rotz:
Whos belts are those ? Looks like i will need to get a new set.
Belts came from PG Classics in Ottawa, B/E and A would be the same supplier, considering there's a note in the bag stating both companies names and that they are only for "decorative purposes and not DOT approved".
Replacement set are fine with no rust or corrosion :2thumbs:
They probably wet the webbing, in China, to sew and then packaged before drying out enough. With the replacement set I cut open every bag on arrival to air them out just in case.
I've even had some problems with official Mopar restoration parts lately-headlight switch for 65 barracuda today is 1/4" too long and won't allow knob to lock into the switch.
I have stopped buying a lot of stuff and am now redoing originals-sent the seatbelts in the 65 to SSnake oil and loved their work-so I'm pulling the ones out of the 70 AAR next week and sending them for refurbishment. Sent the Superbird and AAR dash to Dave Patek to redo them rather than buying crap gauges and bezels, if someone could just make a darn "B" body gas tank sending unit that actually worked my day would be made!
On my Alaska trek this summer none of the 1970 parts broke but I lost to breakage a YearOne gas tank, 2 ECM's from Year One, a Classics Industries radio and a front disk caliper from someone else.
Bob
The brand new repro fuel sending unit in my car has 6.2 ohms whether the tank is empty or full. Unfortunately, I bought it several years ago and have only just now started using the car. So, I have another sending unit on order and will have to drop the tank to replace the new sending unit with another new sending unit. Having the gas gauge read over full all the time is not helpful at all. The brand new temp sender didn't work at all and the brand new neutral safety switch wouldn't turn on the back up lamps. So, three new sensors, all crap.
Quote from: birdsandbees on April 26, 2016, 04:15:46 PM
Belts came from PG Classics in Ottawa, B/E and A would be the same supplier, considering there's a note in the bag stating both companies names and that they are only for "decorative purposes and not DOT approved".
Replacement set are fine with no rust or corrosion :2thumbs:
They probably wet the webbing, in China, to sew and then packaged before drying out enough. With the replacement set I cut open every bag on arrival to air them out just in case.
Good to know.
Bought a fair bit from PG arent they down east though ?
Selling seatbelts is a liability issue a mile wide. It's not surprising if a company won't take responsibility for function on that part, even if they are trying to sell something legit.
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on April 27, 2016, 03:10:55 PM
Selling seatbelts is a liability issue a mile wide. It's not surprising if a company won't take responsibility for function on that part, even if they are trying to sell something legit.
No issues with that Mike.. I've made injection moulded plastic seat belt parts for 30 years now, so know the gig well. Only pointing out you'll get the same belts from B/E and A as you do from PG Classics in Ottawa (Nepean) Ontario. First set extremely rusted as shown above and all buckles corroded inside and knurled rollers rusted. Very happy with the replacements, just ask them to check before they ship.
Now it's stuff like this, specifically requested by the supplier that I order a 5 pc kit and not a 3 piece kit + a pair of end plates to make sure they all match. $790 Cdn with taxes..
I got a set of aftermarket seat belts, about 75.00 shipped. Electric Blue really close to B5 Blue. (They sent a webbing sample first for free.) DOT approved, just the buckles are all chrome smooth finish.
My car is a driver so detail not as critical, gosh I'd been really pissed getting a set like that crap they shipped you! :RantExplode:
Even my new radio plate for dash, I epoxied a "DIN"size frame for the SuperTuner and the painters tape I put on it to protect it pulled off sections of the shiny chrome trim! I'm so glad I'm near the end buying stuff it's not funny! :eek2:
Stuff like this ticks me off as well. Pay good money to get a licence reproduction and they slap the crappy sticker on the show side. Could you not put it on the underside???
Anyone have any tips / tricks to get said sticker off without marring the surface of the plastic reservoir??
Sticker removal
You should be able to take some automotive wax and grease remover and put it on a towel. Let the towel set on the sticker for 20 to 30 seconds and that usually will free the sticker and then wipe the rest of the glue off of your plastic surface.
Russ
I just bought a ignition lock cylinder and door locks from Van's Auto for my 70. Got them rekeyed so I still only need one key. I got to put the lock cylinder in and it doesn't snap into place so if you take the key out the cylinder comes with. In addition it doesn't spring back from the start position. Than I notice the piece to snap it in is a pin and not a "washer". Rechecked there site and it says 70-74 so not sure what is up but only one picture so can't tell what type of pin. Anyway go out to Autozones website and they have the right one. Plus 4 pictures to verify the "washer" is used and not a pin. Picked it up yesterday and it slid in, locked in, and snaps back from start.
Now to get the new door locks rekeyed to match it again. Will trial fit this time first though.
Quote from: birdsandbees on April 27, 2016, 06:02:15 PM
No issues with that Mike.. I've made injection moulded plastic seat belt parts for 30 years now, so know the gig well. Only pointing out you'll get the same belts from B/E and A as you do from PG Classics in Ottawa (Nepean) Ontario. First set extremely rusted as shown above and all buckles corroded inside and knurled rollers rusted. Very happy with the replacements, just ask them to check before they ship.
Now it's stuff like this, specifically requested by the supplier that I order a 5 pc kit and not a 3 piece kit + a pair of end plates to make sure they all match. $790 Cdn with taxes..
Sounds like the same crap that "Just Dashes" pulls. They won't do just one dash pad, they have to do them them all so that they color "match". Bla Bla Bla :blahblah: Yea you just want to gouge our wallets. FU JD :fu:
Quote from: birdsandbees on April 29, 2016, 03:40:36 PM
Stuff like this ticks me off as well. Pay good money to get a licence reproduction and they slap the crappy sticker on the show side. Could you not put it on the underside???
Anyone have any tips / tricks to get said sticker off without marring the surface of the plastic reservoir??
Maybe try a blow dryer, heat gun :shruggy:
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
One more rant, got my 3rd Ramcharger door actuator (made it without tube broken) it cycled a few times and now it doesn't work, bypasses internally. So I guess #4 will be better :smilielol:
:Twocents:
Keep sending the shit back & making the companies deal with it. The more of a PITA we make ourselves the sooner they will fix the issues.
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on August 07, 2016, 02:57:05 PM
:Twocents:
Keep sending the shit back & making the companies deal with it. The more of a PITA we make ourselves the sooner they will fix the issues.
:iagree:
:2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on August 07, 2016, 02:57:05 PM
:Twocents:
Keep sending the shit back & making the companies deal with it. The more of a PITA we make ourselves the sooner they will fix the issues.
I plan to but the Funny ting is I bought the 1st two from Herbs and after I sent back the second one he wouldn't sell me any more because "the returns cost him too much money" so I got the 3rd direct from P&G classic...oh and it was mis-shipped and lost for a week, this is a cursed part no doubt about it!
when I was putting mine back together after I done a nut & bolt resto / rebuild 15ish years ago , I tried to use as much of original parts from the car as possible , & good used parts or nos , & repop at last resort , found a lot of the repop parts were not made exactly like the original , & much poorer quality , & some were just plain crap . would have thought with todays manufacturing etc , should be superior to 50 year old OEM parts .
I realise there are some pretty good repop parts now, very different to when I was doing mine , but still not 100% accurate
heres a question to any repop companys out there reading this , WHY GO TO ALL THE TROUBLE & EXPENCE REPRODUCING A PART , & NOT AT LEAST MAKE IT AS GOOD AS A ORIGINAL OEM PART FOR FIT & QUALITY . :shruggy: cant all be for profit , & it would cost more etc , may be the dimensions & quality & look of said parts , get lost in translation when the stuff is made in china , india , mexico or ..... :shruggy: ,
don't get me wrong , I cant believe whats repoped for our cars now , back in 1989 when I first got my charger , would never have dreamed all this stuff would have been available !!
i'm sure us mopar guys would pay the extra , for a 100 % accurate repop part .
do the FORD & CHEBBY mob have this trouble , from what ive read they can build a whole damn car with repop stuff , :shruggy:
no offence meant to anyone , just how I see it :cheers: :cheers:
Yes, the Ford and Chevy guys have the same issues! A local Mustang shop even has a special process for straightening repop bumpers since they get so many that won't even fit the cars. I know another shop that specializes in tri-five Chevies and they have similar stories.
I have talked to many vendors about quality of parts. It seems that, like anything, the last 10% is always the hardest and most expensive to get right so most assume they'll lose money by chasing perfection (and knowing all the cheapskates I do they may be right).
Troy
problem is the parts for the mopar, chevys and fords may not be perfect but mopar buyers pay 3 times as much for their parts which are the same crap standard.so how does that work out.and before you jump on the old supply demand wagon i purchased a brake caliper rebuild kit same amount of parts as a mustang virtually same design rubbers mustang $15 mopar $65 :scratchchin:
That's gouging basically. Thank your fellow "Mopar guys" for that. It's sad to say but many Mopar people know they are in a minority and stuff is hard to find so they automatically bump the price while telling you how much they are helping you out. But if there are any differences in the parts and any additional tooling is required, manufacturers do have to build that into the price knowing the market is a lot smaller.
Troy
QuoteYes, the Ford and Chevy guys have the same issues! A local Mustang shop even has a special process for straightening repop bumpers since they get so many that won't even fit the cars. I know another shop that specializes in tri-five Chevies and they have similar stories.
Yep, I have heard GM/Ford guys even say that some of the Mopar stuff is darn good for repros.
All the brands have high standards for their 100% OE restos. But I think the Mopar hobby gets more bothered about the cosmetic details when it's just a non-original fun cruiser.
QuoteI have talked to many vendors about quality of parts. It seems that, like anything, the last 10% is always the hardest and most expensive to get right so most assume they'll lose money by chasing perfection (and knowing all the cheapskates I do they may be right)
Detroit didn't bother with the last 10% in the 1960s. This repro Asian stuff has to be at least 20% now.
I've griped for years that we can buy 1:18 toy Chargers made better than the 1:1 scale repro parts. What other mainstream industry would tolerate 20% of their shipped parts failing a 2-minute inspection & test fitting? We're not talking about microprocessors here. Old car resto body/interior parts are very simple shapes & materials by modern standards.
For that matter, tons of repro body/interior parts are known to fit wrong 10-times-out-of-10. They sell us entire body panels stamped 1/2" too long or short. It's ridiculous.
----------------------
Quoteand before you jump on the old supply demand wagon i purchased a brake caliper rebuild kit same amount of parts as a mustang virtually same design rubbers mustang $15 mopar $65
IMO that makes some sense if the Mopar stuff was not exactly the same part as the Mustang, physically.
Mustang fenders & grilles are made of the same sheetmetal & plastic as our parts too. But every product involves designing, tooling, packaging, marketing, and stocking things. Same work + less sales = higher price each.
the supply demand thing puzzles me . if there is more ford and chevy so called buyers of these after market parts. you would think there would be more cars to begin with, so should there not be more donor cars around making the second hand parts market more fertile thus making the repo parts market smaller ?did that make sense :eek2:
Quotethe supply demand thing puzzles me . if there is more ford and chevy so called buyers of these after market parts. you would think there would be more cars to begin with, so should there not be more donor cars around making the second hand parts market more fertile thus making the repo parts market smaller ?did that make sense
If there are more Christian families than Jewish, then there are more Christian men out there competing for the supply of Christian wives. But it also means there are more Christian women for them too. Proportions are maintained.
ok if its a supply demand driven price gap here is a prime example of corporate gouging the Australian population stands at approx 24,000,000 in 2016 the hk ht hg monaro which was the ghm version of the muscle car of that era total production numbers for all 3 models 29,594 maybe 1500 left at best that's on the monaro register . the American population at 324,000,000 in 2016 the 1968 69 70 charger total production numbers approx 223,000 (i stand corrected) numbers left not sure but i'm sure there is more than 1500 now for price differences the one guard for the monaro equates to about $630 US and that's off eBay i can get them cheaper .so how do those numbers add up on supply demand :scratchchin:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HK-HT-HG-GTS-HOLDEN-MUD-GUARD-FENDER-FRONT-PAIR-LEFT-RIGHT-STEEL-MONARO-/401156959832?hash=item5d66d16e58:g:HCoAAOSwnDxUco3q
http://www.autometaldirect.com/amd-69-charger-fender---lh-p-304.html
I dunno about that one.
Offhand guesses:
Are those rare HM fenders shared by a more common model with slight changes? Perhaps without the indents, etc?
Did HM's original tooling survive? That has helped hold down the cost to reproduce a lot of American GM/Ford stuff over the years.
Mopar went basically bankrupt in the early 1980s. They were forced to scrap the "non-vital assets" like the tooling for tons of muscle-era stuff.
nope only 3 models had these fenders my dad was working at general motors holden at the time they scrapped all the tooling here is the you tube video if Australia can get these produced for such a low production numbers why cant America
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01_UGD_hFcY
How many are they selling? Maybe it's a kirksite tooling job. It works but it wears out very quickly.
Past that, I'm out of guesses. :confused:
Oh...Looks like actuator #4 is going bad already, 2 months old maybe 1 hour of operating time... :RantExplode: :RantExplode: :RantExplode:
I don't even expect "new" parts to fit anymore. I'll try to reuse an old part everytime.
And why did my new vinyl top crumble after 4 years, 3 of which it was stored inside? Because it was made from cheaper vinyl.
Quote from: birdsandbees on April 29, 2016, 03:40:36 PM
Anyone have any tips / tricks to get said sticker off without marring the surface of the plastic reservoir??
Use Goo Gone
http://googone.com/products/original/ (http://googone.com/products/original/)
I use it on lots of my plastic pinball/motorcycle/etc parts. Never had a problem with it damaging a plastic surface. Takes very little. Start by pulling the sticker off the best you can and use this stuff on a paper towel to remove the leftover adhesive.
However, standard precautions apply.. test in inconspicuous spot first.
THANKS! :2thumbs:
I've heard alot of people in here before say after market fits great. When I put a 71 SS Chevelle Convertible back together with many repro parts, All I know is almost every repro part was cheap garbage that fit like crap & I was better off cleaning up/straightening/refurbishing the original parts & re using those that fit great. Then my Idiot boss bitched at me because I couldn't make the repros fit right like it was my fault. :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: LEON.
I ordered some repo heater hose from YearOne (yeah, I know) 'cause i had a discount code and was flushing the rad soon. The wall thickness of the hose was too much - had all my weight over the pipe nipple at the pump, not moving. Quickly realised the heater core side would never work. Called Y O and the friendly customer support guy said "it's a known issue". WTF? So you still send it out and take my money? !!!
Ordered from Classic Industries - normal, works great. Year One hose is on the bottom.
Quote from: birdsandbees on April 29, 2016, 03:40:36 PM
Anyone have any tips / tricks to get said sticker off without marring the surface of the plastic reservoir??
cigar lighter flame over the sticker will soften the sticker glue ( quick past, no need to hold it long )... trick from toys stores when removing price tags for gifts before the gift envelope
Quote from: ht4spd307 on August 08, 2016, 10:18:13 AM
problem is the parts for the mopar, chevys and fords may not be perfect but mopar buyers pay 3 times as much for their parts which are the same crap standard.so how does that work out.and before you jump on the old supply demand wagon i purchased a brake caliper rebuild kit same amount of parts as a mustang virtually same design rubbers mustang $15 mopar $65 :scratchchin:
where I have talked about this ?
LOL
AND ABOUT THE TOPIC ITSELF
where I can get refunded the $2000 I have spent on plastic interior panels ? Oh... well I'm overseas so return them makes it hard and expensive... GRRRRRR
Like getting tail pipe clamp bands from Year One and they need media blast already due to rust. Emailed them and they don't care. Remember why I stopped shopping there in 1990. :brickwall:
I just bought YO twice, when I noticed where the shipping and handling high charges were going, to a full of GA air box to shipp just window fuzzies ( pieces of shit too ) where I had to pay also INTERNATIONAL shipping.
GA air is expensive!!
Quote from: Bronzedodge on November 13, 2016, 11:29:57 AM
I ordered some repo heater hose from YearOne (yeah, I know) 'cause i had a discount code and was flushing the rad soon. The wall thickness of the hose was too much - had all my weight over the pipe nipple at the pump, not moving. Quickly realised the heater core side would never work. Called Y O and the friendly customer support guy said "it's a known issue". WTF? So you still send it out and take my money? !!!
Ordered from Classic Industries - normal, works great. Year One hose is on the bottom.
Interesting, I have the repro "Year One" heater hose on my Daytona, no issues installing it, fit was fine, were you installing the hose dry on the fittings?
Yes, I lubed them up as dry was a no-go. I tried anti-freeze first, then shaving cream (breaks down in water better than soap). I even tried a spare heater core on the bench to check the fit where I could see it. The Y O hose is just plain wrong. Look at the difference in wall thickness between the two hoses in my pic. It is significant. Y O guy on the phone said they have had numerous complaints, and suggested drilling out the hose to help. :smilielol: :RantExplode:
Quote from: Bronzedodge on November 14, 2016, 08:42:55 AM
Y O guy on the phone said they have had numerous complaints, and suggested drilling out the hose to help. :smilielol: :RantExplode:
ok.... I got why they charge what they charge on the S&H rate... need to pay the extra post sale customer service... need lot of ppl on the phone and have to cover their payment and special training
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on November 14, 2016, 08:54:00 AM
Quote from: Bronzedodge on November 14, 2016, 08:42:55 AM
Y O guy on the phone said they have had numerous complaints, and suggested drilling out the hose to help. :smilielol: :RantExplode:
ok.... I got why they charge what they charge on the S&H rate... need to pay the extra post sale customer service... need lot of ppl on the phone and have to cover their payment and special training
Drilling out the hose, lol.....If some even tried that it would be a dangerous situation indeed....
YO has just a few parts you cannot get from other vendors and those other vendors don't rape you on shipping costs. MEGA PARTS is one of the best vendors out there.
yes.... definitelly Megaparts gets an A+ on that. They got me an special shipping price once in fact!
I forgott YO exist maybe back in 2006 when got delivered the last catalog they sent me. Actually in fact they REMEMBERED ME they exist when I got that catalog LOL
I have used megaparts for a lot of stuff on my car. Jamie has been awesome to work with!
I'll third or 4th that Jamie is outstanding. Even credits you for some of the shipping after he gets the final packaged weighed up and posted! One of about 3 on Ebay.. out of 100's.. that has ever been this honest! :yesnod: In fact I have been tracking my latest package from him and the mail man should be bringing it to the door within the hour!
Plain and simple, YearOne flat out sucks!!!!!
Been done with them for over a year+ now. But they will never go out of business even though customers are falling by the wayside because they're tired of their crap. Too big and massive that they can get away with treating their customers like SH~T! And with their BS advice they give on the crappy parts they sell. Even knowing about them but yet ship them out anyways.
FU YearOne and your F your 30% off and then spike the shipping charges to make up for the discount.
:2thumbs:
Quote from: VegasCharger on November 14, 2016, 05:08:17 PM
Plain and simple, YearOne flat out sucks!!!!!
Been done with them for over a year+ now. But they will never go out of business even though customers are falling by the wayside because they're tired of their crap. Too big and massive that they can get away with treating their customers like SH~T! And with their BS advice they give on the crappy parts they sell. Even knowing about them but yet ship them out anyways.
FU YearOne and your F your 30% off and then spike the shipping charges to make up for the discount.
:2thumbs:
People have been making the same complaints about YO for literally decades. They're making too much money to change.
Well some good news, after the 4th "New" hood actuator went bad I bought an original 46 year old part that works fine...so problem solved there
Latest Rant....the 8 month old "brand new Ramcharger/airgrabber Switch is now leaking internally and bad...MAYBE 2 hours or running time on it, TOPS!
(http://i21.ebayimg.com/01/i/001/1b/d7/199c_35.JPG)
I know its an old thread but I thought I would add a few more examples to this thread after my recent experiences.
1. AMD glass - I have their rear glass, side glass and quarter window glass. The glass is a great alternative to my old, scratched ones, but they are far from perfect. It is not as noticeable on the rear glass, but on the quarter glass and side glass, the edges are not finished well. The top edge is very wavy when you look at it from a side angle, this is the case on all the pieces I have from them. Seems like they were not cut cleanly. The quarter glass is a few years old, but I just got the side glass.
2. AMD bumpers - I bought both the front and rear AMD bumpers, after getting a ridiculous quote to re chrome my original bumpers, around $800 each or so, I went with the aftermarket ones, about $750 a pair shipped. Overall, they look nice at first glance, but if you look closely, the chrome is a bit distorted in a few areas and the bumperettes do not sit anywhere close to flush. I had to bend the tabs on the bottom of the bumperettes to get them to sit correctly to the bracket below.
I know I should be happy that the aftermarket parts are available, however for the $ that this costs, close to $1500 combined, I was expecting a bit better I guess.
then there is the issue of the trim.. windshield trim didn't fit for crap on the lower front corners, rear tail light panel trim was not bent in the correct shape.. I could go on. Some day I will replace that crap with original stuff, it is just not important enough right now for me to bother, I want to drive this thing. :yesnod:
Great information, thanks. :2thumbs:
Amazing that with all the laser precision robots and computerized machines nowadays they can't make products of the same quality or better than almost 50 years ago.
i wonder if china complains about american made products..."damn toopid mericans, why dey parts line up white, now i fix car to line up wid part"
Yeah...Thats how all the Chinamen I know sound to me. :smilielol:
Quote from: Lennard on March 09, 2017, 01:01:34 PM
...Amazing that with all the laser precision robots and computerized machines nowadays they can't make products of the same quality or better than almost 50 years ago.
that's actually a good point!
It's the quality control.
Just like new car quality. We act like it's a statement about American engineering when people don't want to buy American cars? No it isn't. It's just corporate bean-counting that makes the difference. It's a choice at some level.
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on March 14, 2017, 12:08:24 PM
It's the quality control.
Just like new car quality. We act like it's a statement about American engineering when people don't want to buy American cars? No it isn't. It's just corporate bean-counting that makes the difference. It's a choice at some level.
Being a Canadian, I feel I can comment on this topic, without patriotism or pride influencing me. Anyone who thinks the US can't build quality cars is delusional at best. Lets be honest, most US cars with a sub $20K price tag are driven to the junk yard, whereas a lot of European cars of much higher price tags get let go due to high cost gremlins. BMW and Rover come to mind. Where American cars really dropped the ball in the recent past was interior quality, not because they couldn't be made as well as the competition, but that execs gambled wrong on the premise that Americans wouldn't pay the extra for nicer finishes..... This folly has been all but reversed in recent years, but that shady past has influenced people's opinion on the competition being of higher quality, even to this day.
But it seems to me, Made In The USA is still the seal of quality to look for when it comes to tools, most in my box have that on them.
Thank you, Brad.
Of course....My 2015 Challenger is built in Brampton!
Quote from: AKcharger on April 15, 2016, 08:57:03 PM
What is REALLY annoying is I'll pay for quality parts. the old say "you get what you pay for" is true but seems we pay a premium for parts and often get 3rd rate crap
What's really annoying to me is the people in here that say there is nothing wrong with cheap aftermarket parts, The problem is not the parts but the people who don't know how to install them right :brickwall: :shruggy: :slap:
Quote from: darbgnik on March 14, 2017, 02:50:47 PM
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on March 14, 2017, 12:08:24 PM
It's the quality control.
Just like new car quality. We act like it's a statement about American engineering when people don't want to buy American cars? No it isn't. It's just corporate bean-counting that makes the difference. It's a choice at some level.
Being a Canadian, I feel I can comment on this topic, without patriotism or pride influencing me. Anyone who thinks the US can't build quality cars is delusional at best. Lets be honest, most US cars with a sub $20K price tag are driven to the junk yard, whereas a lot of European cars of much higher price tags get let go due to high cost gremlins. BMW and Rover come to mind. Where American cars really dropped the ball in the recent past was interior quality, not because they couldn't be made as well as the competition, but that execs gambled wrong on the premise that Americans wouldn't pay the extra for nicer finishes..... This folly has been all but reversed in recent years, but that shady past has influenced people's opinion on the competition being of higher quality, even to this day.
But it seems to me, Made In The USA is still the seal of quality to look for when it comes to tools, most in my box have that on them.
Quite funny that you mention Rover and BMW in the same sentence....no one in the UK would have even considered a Rover if they could have afforded a BMW...Even as a Brit I would say that Rovers were horrible cars with terrible build quality. BMW on the other hand did and do build some of the worlds best cars......probably why Rover went bust years ago....and good riddance!
US built cars do not have a great rep in Europe....which is why you hardly see them....very few are imported. Jeep and the Chrysler 300c being the exceptions. Jeeps are great and well built and the 300c was a Merc underneath and well priced....and then they built a new one....oh dear...the previous one had a good, almost Bentley style look to it....but the new one was typical US style...ugly (IMO of course!)....and now they hardly sell any and will probably stop importing them.
What stops US cars selling here is their rep for being designed for straight roads and being far softer and wallowy with excessive roll that Euro drivers don't like....we like sharper handling, stiffer and better damped cars. Also the US public has a different view of what makes a pretty car than us Europeans....which is fine...each to their own.....but it stop them being bought in. And the US style interiors....which are def an acquired taste. They are selling a few US style Mustang's at the Fords dealers in the UK (two year wait for one)....but that's a niche car and the exception rather than the rule.
So basically I don't thing we have an issue with you built quality...although the first few years of US built Mercedes where terrible quality compared to the German ones!!..... its the looks and handling that hold them back.
Quote from: alfaitalia on March 15, 2017, 12:12:50 PM
Quite funny that you mention Rover and BMW in the same sentence....no one in the UK would have even considered a Rover if they could have afforded a BMW...Even as a Brit I would say that Rovers were horrible cars with terrible build quality. BMW on the other hand did and do build some of the worlds best cars......probably why Rover went bust years ago....and good riddance!
US built cars do not have a great rep in Europe....which is why you hardly see them....very few are imported. Jeep and the Chrysler 300c being the exceptions. Jeeps are great and well built and the 300c was a Merc underneath and well priced....and then they built a new one....oh dear...the previous one had a good, almost Bentley style look to it....but the new one was typical US style...ugly (IMO of course!)....and now they hardly sell any and will probably stop importing them.
What stops US cars selling here is their rep for being designed for straight roads and being far softer and wallowy with excessive roll that Euro drivers don't like....we like sharper handling, stiffer and better damped cars. Also the US public has a different view of what makes a pretty car than us Europeans....which is fine...each to their own.....but it stop them being bought in. And the US style interiors....which are def an acquired taste. They are selling a few US style Mustang's at the Fords dealers in the UK (two year wait for one)....but that's a niche car and the exception rather than the rule.
So basically I don't thing we have an issue with you built quality...although the first few years of US built Mercedes where terrible quality compared to the German ones!!..... its the looks and handling that hold them back.
It's funny you picked that comparison, as the 2000ish Range Rovers(BMW owned era) were basically rebodied BMW X5's and were the worst one they ever made(for most expensive repairs). Electrical gremlins, poor driveline design that eats differentials, weak transmissions, you know, all the BMW parts.... Hahaha. My poor mother owned one, worst vehicle anyone in our family ever owned. BMW's are still known for electrical gremlins, and leaky air suspensions on this side of the pond. V10 engines in M6 and M5's grenading. I wouldn't mention them and Merc in the same sentence these days. Full disclosure, I agree when they were Daimler Chrysler, Merc quality took a hit for a few years.....
Which is too bad, BMW makes some really great driver's cars. Great handling, very nice interiors, subjective styling mind you. But I'd never buy one, as I live too far from a dealer to risk it. But I do have a BMW R1200GS that I love. :shruggy:
On a slightly related note, while we're taking turns criticizing(in good humor I hope) nation's car builder's strengths and weaknesses, I'd put my USA made, current Dodge Viper up against any EU car when it comes to handling and performance. Even the interiors on these new ones are of comparable quality to the price tag. And to be proactive, we love ostentatious styling over here. Hahaha
I have bought a lot of repop parts over the years. Had pretty good luck with most parts.
Had to massage the door handles on my 71 Charger to work properly.
On my 68 Charger not happy with the tail lights. Car has three summers of use, always garaged. The black paint is already flaking off passenger side and three out of the four round silver trim rings on the small center piece are gone.
On my Daytona clone I bought several fiberglass parts from Janak. So unhappy with the grill frame I tossed it and bought a steel one from Erik Nelson- and I'm only building a driver, I'm not a nitpicker.
QuoteIt's funny you picked that comparison, as the 2000ish Range Rovers(BMW owned era) were basically rebodied BMW X5's and were the worst one they ever made(for most expensive repairs). Electrical gremlins, poor driveline design that eats differentials, weak transmissions, you know, all the BMW parts.... Hahaha. My poor mother owned one, worst vehicle anyone in our family ever owned. BMW's are still known for electrical gremlins, and leaky air suspensions on this side of the pond. V10 engines in M6 and M5's grenading. I wouldn't mention them and Merc in the same sentence these days. Full disclosure, I agree when they were Daimler Chrysler, Merc quality took a hit for a few years.....
Which is too bad, BMW makes some really great driver's cars. Great handling, very nice interiors, subjective styling mind you. But I'd never buy one, as I live too far from a dealer to risk it. But I do have a BMW R1200GS that I love. shruggy
1990s BMW sedan body + aluminum chevy LS motor
You must have had different models to us....No LS engines in anything we had here (except one special edition they did....which didn't sell due to high fuel cost here.) And they were all (except the special) front wheel drive so not BMW bodies either as far as I can tell. :shruggy:. Just a couple of engines where shared until BMW realised they were on to a loser and walked...then Honda motors were used.
Quote from: alfaitalia on March 16, 2017, 08:08:13 AM
You must have had different models to us....No LS engines in anything we had here (except one special edition they did....which didn't sell due to high fuel cost here.) And they were all (except the special) front wheel drive so not BMW bodies either as far as I can tell. :shruggy:. Just a couple of engines where shared until BMW realised they were on to a loser and walked...then Honda motors were used.
I would assume he's talking about a popular swap. An E36 BMW with an aluminum LS is a cheap competent track weapon. In Chump Car, a low buck racing series I've raced in over here, which is based off a points system, to keep all the cars competitive, the E36 BMW is at the points limit, bone stock. Strip it out, install a cage and a competition seat, align it, race, and win.
This is what I meant, they build great cars to drive, just the chance of getting a lemon are high....
Over here they are seen as pretty bullet proof and desirable as a used vehicle!!. Had a few high mile ones myself with next to no issues....funny how what are virtually identical cars are perceived differently in different markets.
....anyway....BOT!
Yeah, I mean take a decent used BMW body and retrofit a Chevy LS motor into it. Good body + good engine = good car.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on March 14, 2017, 07:10:06 PM
Quote from: AKcharger on April 15, 2016, 08:57:03 PM
What is REALLY annoying is I'll pay for quality parts. the old say "you get what you pay for" is true but seems we pay a premium for parts and often get 3rd rate crap
What's really annoying to me is the people in here that say there is nothing wrong with cheap aftermarket parts, The problem is not the parts but the people who don't know how to install them right :brickwall: :shruggy: :slap:
I don't follow? are you saying seat belts rusted and internal rubber seals fail within hours because of how the parts were bolted to the car?
1968 B Body turn signal switch from Vans Auto (eBay store). Anyone have had any issues with these? I can't get mine to pivot into the left or right positions. Also the notches to receive the turn signal stem nubs are too small thus the 2 nubs not fully engaging. See 2nd pic, is this supposed to be like this? Seems like any pressure applied, the nubs would slip out of the notches. I tried to pivot the cam into the any position by hand and no luck. I don't want to apply too much pressure, I'm afraid I'll break the cheap plastic of this aftermarket crap. I did this with the switch not installed into the column yet. I was doing a pre-test.
Thanks :cheers:
Quote from: VegasCharger on May 29, 2017, 07:38:51 AM
1968 B Body turn signal switch from Vans Auto (eBay store). Anyone have had any issues with these? I can't get mine to pivot into the left or right positions. Also the notches to receive the turn signal stem nubs are too small thus the 2 nubs not fully engaging. See 2nd pic, is this supposed to be like this? Seems like any pressure applied, the nubs would slip out of the notches. I tried to pivot the cam into the any position by hand and no luck. I don't want to apply too much pressure, I'm afraid I'll break the cheap plastic of this aftermarket crap. I did this with the switch not installed into the column yet. I was doing a pre-test.
Thanks :cheers:
The connector that came with mine would not fit the car, and same issue as you have now. It isn't supposed to be like that. I had to dremel the notch a bit to make it work.
Talk about crap new parts, a friend and I both bought new repo "Voice of Roadrunner" horns for my truck and his 68 Plymouth wagon.(I think they were around $75 bucks each)
They are the purple ones with the longer mounting bracket and the sticker on them. They sound different from each other, and they both do not sound like the ones on org Roadrunners, that I have heard. His sounded the most like it should.
Three months later his sounds way better then mine, because mine quit working at all.(we even tweeked the tone knob a bit, it still sounded off)
Are all the Roadrunner horns made/sound the same?
My 92 960 Volvo has a stock horn that sounds just like the Road Runner when you give it two beeps. The NEW repro purple ones are a disappointment as i bought one and hooked it up to my 240 Volvo and its bad.
Quote from: Vegas_Nick on May 29, 2017, 10:58:58 AM
The connector that came with mine would not fit the car, and same issue as you have now. It isn't supposed to be like that. I had to dremel the notch a bit to make it work.
I should ad that the connector that you see in my pic is my original. My repo didn't even come with a connector shell.
However shouldn't I be able the turn the switch by hand w/o using the turn signal lever? Even if I do dremel out the notches for my OEM turn signal switch to engage the problem still may exist.
Thanks for the reply. :cheers:
Why on earth do people think Mercedes are good cars? My wife likes them so we have had two of them, both have been total pieces of crap. Her Neon was more reliable and after that her Honda S2000 was pretty good (not perfect, it ate coil packs). She currently has a 2011 SLK350 and creaks and groans like a much older car.
And yeah, I hate Chinese parts. Most of them end up in the garbage, not on the car.
Sheldon
You can always get a bad car no matter what the make. Don't think there are many who would say Mercedes are "crap".....but there are bad individual cars with faults no matter who makes them. Until recently we had two Mercs (now one)...an SLK 230 Kompressor and a CLK200 Kompressor. The SLK we had from nearly new in 1999 and apart from normal servicing it only ever had tyres, brakes and one MAF sensor and one rear window motor with absolutely nothing else in nearly 17 years. My CLK has just rolled over 150,000 miles and still drives like new and uses no oil between services. Both cars still have the original exhausts, no rust and are NEVER garaged.
Cheap parts are a real problem in the car world....eBay had made the problem worse IMO which is why I try to buy my parts at the local factors where I can see/feel them BEFORE cash changes hands!!
Quote from: VegasCharger on May 29, 2017, 07:59:13 PM
Quote from: Vegas_Nick on May 29, 2017, 10:58:58 AM
The connector that came with mine would not fit the car, and same issue as you have now. It isn't supposed to be like that. I had to dremel the notch a bit to make it work.
I should ad that the connector that you see in my pic is my original. My repo didn't even come with a connector shell.
However shouldn't I be able the turn the switch by hand w/o using the turn signal lever? Even if I do dremel out the notches for my OEM turn signal switch to engage the problem still may exist.
Thanks for the reply. :cheers:
I put a new signal switch in my 70 ( not sure it was from the same place as yours) but I could not make it turn left right with out the handle on it either but it worked fine
Quote from: 70 sublime on May 30, 2017, 08:48:14 AM
Quote from: VegasCharger on May 29, 2017, 07:59:13 PM
Quote from: Vegas_Nick on May 29, 2017, 10:58:58 AM
The connector that came with mine would not fit the car, and same issue as you have now. It isn't supposed to be like that. I had to dremel the notch a bit to make it work.
I should ad that the connector that you see in my pic is my original. My repo didn't even come with a connector shell.
However shouldn't I be able the turn the switch by hand w/o using the turn signal lever? Even if I do dremel out the notches for my OEM turn signal switch to engage the problem still may exist.
Thanks for the reply. :cheers:
I put a new signal switch in my 70 ( not sure it was from the same place as yours) but I could not make it turn left right with out the handle on it either
I picked up the same switch from Vans about 4 months ago, put it in about 2 weeks ago and although it is not very smooth, it does work so far. I didn't even see the part you pictured where it meets the lever before I put mine on, just assumed it was correct. I really don't want to do this job again as my steering column is installed in the car.
Quote from: Scaregrabber on May 30, 2017, 12:00:33 AM
Why on earth do people think Mercedes are good cars? My wife likes them so we have had two of them, both have been total pieces of crap. Her Neon was more reliable and after that her Honda S2000 was pretty good (not perfect, it ate coil packs). She currently has a 2011 SLK350 and creaks and groans like a much older car.
And yeah, I hate Chinese parts. Most of them end up in the garbage, not on the car.
Sheldon
In Europe, MB's are used as taxis, so what does that tell you? I've owned 3 cars and 5 Sprinter vans (for work) and I'd say that MB is simply a German version of GM. Here in the US, Mercedes targets their vehicles to the high end market, but they make a whole bunch of vehicles in Europe that they don't offer to the US market.
http://www.mercedes-benz.co.uk/content/unitedkingdom/mpc/mpc_unitedkingdom_website/en/home_mpc/passengercars/home/new_cars/model_overview.html
Quote from: VegasCharger on May 29, 2017, 07:59:13 PM
Quote from: Vegas_Nick on May 29, 2017, 10:58:58 AM
The connector that came with mine would not fit the car, and same issue as you have now. It isn't supposed to be like that. I had to dremel the notch a bit to make it work.
I should ad that the connector that you see in my pic is my original. My repo didn't even come with a connector shell.
However shouldn't I be able the turn the switch by hand w/o using the turn signal lever? Even if I do dremel out the notches for my OEM turn signal switch to engage the problem still may exist.
Thanks for the reply. :cheers:
You should be able to push the switch one way or the other but not turn it by hand where the lever connects. They are pretty stiff at first. After I installed this one it works fine, just a bit stiff.
Quote from: timmycharger on May 30, 2017, 08:57:45 AM
Quote from: 70 sublime on May 30, 2017, 08:48:14 AM
Quote from: VegasCharger on May 29, 2017, 07:59:13 PM
Quote from: Vegas_Nick on May 29, 2017, 10:58:58 AM
The connector that came with mine would not fit the car, and same issue as you have now. It isn't supposed to be like that. I had to dremel the notch a bit to make it work.
I should ad that the connector that you see in my pic is my original. My repo didn't even come with a connector shell.
However shouldn't I be able the turn the switch by hand w/o using the turn signal lever? Even if I do dremel out the notches for my OEM turn signal switch to engage the problem still may exist.
Thanks for the reply. :cheers:
I put a new signal switch in my 70 ( not sure it was from the same place as yours) but I could not make it turn left right with out the handle on it either
I picked up the same switch from Vans about 4 months ago, put it in about 2 weeks ago and although it is not very smooth, it does work so far. I didn't even see the part you pictured where it meets the lever before I put mine on, just assumed it was correct. I really don't want to do this job again as my steering column is installed in the car.
Be sure and check your brake lights before putting everything back together. I installed one in a '72 and my left brake light stopped working.
My latest Misadventure, dash pad doesn't even fit! Studs WAY off. My fault, I knew better! You'd think the Chinese political prisoners in the sweat shops making these parts would take a LITTLE PRIDE in their work!
Elongate the holes and check nut clearance. Think back about 30 years ago when there was NOTHING, you made do. I've just stopped buying anything except mechanical parts. (Letting my kids enjoy whatever.)
I know what you go through. I did my 70 mustang with a very expensive new dash pad. It has a 3/4 inch gap above the gauge panel and fit terrible. And when I ordered the sheet metal for my 68 charger from AMD it was some of the worst I have ever had :rotz: . I know it is still better than nothing at all but when you pay a premium for it , it really makes you upset over all. I had a left front fender that the hole for the marker light was off so far that the light wouldn't fit right. I called and complained and they told me to fix it and they would give me a discount. I said I wouldn't do that it was a new fender and should be right. Finally the place I ordered it through hired someone to fix it. It is better than not having the parts to restore a car. But you would think they would at least care if they fit. I have had to massage every part I have gotten from AMD (I have gotten parts for my Chevelle, Mustang, a Camaro and Charger ) as well as many other parts. The rear valance corner's were the worst. I had to cut them in half and weld in a piece to get them to fit. I guess it is the world we live in but it isn't fun for the price this stuff costs.
Quote from: b5blue on May 04, 2022, 10:16:14 AM
Elongate the holes and check nut clearance. Think back about 30 years ago when there was NOTHING, you made do....
Well OTHER problem is the studs are about 3/16 shorter than stock so if I hacked up the dash to make this fit I might have trouble getting nuts on. I'm with ya' about 30 years ago, but the flip side is if I know something isn't available I can fix/repair on my own terms with no "Suprises"
- Dream Catcher From a pal with 1st hand experience dealing in China (He had a carpentry tool) you send in what you want made and the sample comes back excellent or just needing a tweak or two...2nd sample Spot on! "I'll order 500 units!" you sit back thinking of how you'll corner the market with this tool/part that is NOWHERE to be found, the $$ is just goanna roll in! Well, several months later here comes your shipment! and it is complete crap! barely recognizable as the item you ordered...what do you do? Eat the whole order to save people from getting inferior stuff or sell and try to salvage a few $$ at the risk of your reputation. Then...to add insult to injury 6 months later "YOUR" part is now for sale EVERYWHERE as the Chinese factory ran a few thousand units before they changed tooling and dumped them on the market
QuoteI have had to massage every part I have gotten from AMD (I have gotten parts for my Chevelle, Mustang, a Camaro and Charger ) as well as many other parts. The rear valance corner's were the worst. I had to cut them in half and weld in a piece to get them to fit. I guess it is the world we live in but it isn't fun for the price this stuff costs.
Care to elaborate on exactly what you had to alter, and how? Pics? Etc? I'm always saying we should be documenting this stuff.
BTW the valance corners are actually not bad. Everybody thinks they are terrible because by the time you are installing those corners, the sloppy tolerances of the other related panels (trunkfloor & extensions & quarter skins & center valance, etc) have added up.
Quote from: Mike DC (formerly miked) on May 04, 2022, 07:40:35 PM
QuoteI have had to massage every part I have gotten from AMD (I have gotten parts for my Chevelle, Mustang, a Camaro and Charger ) as well as many other parts. The rear valance corner's were the worst. I had to cut them in half and weld in a piece to get them to fit. I guess it is the world we live in but it isn't fun for the price this stuff costs.
Care to elaborate on exactly what you had to alter, and how? Pics? Etc? I'm always saying we should be documenting this stuff.
BTW the valance corners are actually not bad. Everybody thinks they are terrible because by the time you are installing those corners, the sloppy tolerances of the other related panels (trunkfloor & extensions & quarter skins & center valance, etc) have added up.
Probably the case with mine. I had replaced both rear quarters, trunk pan, tail light panel, and valance. The corners were the last thing on. And they just didn't match up. Funny thing is that both sides were pretty much the same. I don't take many pictures any more as I have done so much of this type of project. I will look and see if I have any. I just remember when I posted the issues I was having a few others had made a comment of having the same issue with theirs. I think that was over on the B bodies site. Like I said, not really complaining here because with out this stuff we would be dead in the water here. Just wish for what we pay for parts the parts would get better as we go forward in the hobby.
Thanks
I been complaining about After Market Parts since 1984, when the only after market to Restore Cars back then was Sherman & Associates, Then Motor City Originals came out in late 80's, anybody remember them. I don't get how if point A to B is 4 1/2 inches then make it 4 1/2 inches, not 5 1/4" or if distance from point A to point B is 15 inches make it 15" not 16 3/4". Doesn't seem hard to get the measurments right but they are usually off. I'd really like to of been there & worked on or seen them work on Stephens Performance Wasted Rust Bucket Daytona, Finished Product looked all nice in flat black primer but how much cutting & welding did they really do to make the Parts fit. They want you to think it all just bolted together & fit great from the Start. :shruggy: :slap:
Quote from: Mytur Binsdirti on May 30, 2017, 01:26:45 PM
Quote from: Scaregrabber on May 30, 2017, 12:00:33 AM
Why on earth do people think Mercedes are good cars? My wife likes them so we have had two of them, both have been total pieces of crap. Her Neon was more reliable and after that her Honda S2000 was pretty good (not perfect, it ate coil packs). She currently has a 2011 SLK350 and creaks and groans like a much older car.
And yeah, I hate Chinese parts. Most of them end up in the garbage, not on the car.
Sheldon
In Europe, MB's are used as taxis, so what does that tell you? I've owned 3 cars and 5 Sprinter vans (for work) and I'd say that MB is simply a German version of GM. Here in the US, Mercedes targets their vehicles to the high end market, but they make a whole bunch of vehicles in Europe that they don't offer to the US market.
http://www.mercedes-benz.co.uk/content/unitedkingdom/mpc/mpc_unitedkingdom_website/en/home_mpc/passengercars/home/new_cars/model_overview.html
Mercedes are a high class cars no matter if being used as Taxis. Teslas are being used as Taxis around here too.
My reproduction rallye rims are from Motor City Originals :)
Credit where credit is due...I did just receive this bezel Lense and its acceptable. It's not a 2 part like original but you will not be able to tell and quality is fine. Perhaps it's Tiawan and the Capitalist Chinese?
Right after I got hurt, I started buying up instrument clusters thinking theyd be some of the last stuff reproduced.
I was right but never took advantage...lol.
Looking good buddy!
Come to think about it, I've had good luck with OER. B5 paint and ALT gauge both good.
Quote from: b5blue on May 12, 2022, 07:41:57 AM
Come to think about it, I've had good luck with OER. B5 paint and ALT gauge both good.
Maybe I'll seek them out specifically
O jeeze. Years back we had to use original parts. I sent the faces off to cvvacuum to be rechromed.
I can't remember the name of the cluster place I used for AllBlueRT. I know I recommended them and they screwed a couple folks so I quit recommending them. "Auto Cluster??" something. I was happy with their work. They even did the odometer.
While we are on bad parts just wondering if anyone has used the repop external door handles for a 69 charger are they any good ?
I used them and they pitted and got fuzzy within a few years. (Just like the rear bumper.)
That bad hey thought they may have improved their production abilities with all the new technology
"Trim Parts" handles (USA) and AMD bumper (Taiwan) fit okay but for an out in the weather car like mine not holding up like factory chrome. If kept indoors and waxed every other month or so may be okay. :shruggy:
Just buy a house with a garage and keep the car inside.
Problem solved.
So the handles work and fit okay just don't last out in the weather. no modifications needed to fit the handles ? I'm happy to replace them later down the track if i find NOS ones.Just don't like cutting,drilling or boring out holes to fit junk
I reused many original parts and installed the door handle bracing plates available. It's possible China handles may have better chrome. :shruggy: (For 1/2 the price I paid.)
Anyone used the re pop grille moldings for a 69 charger whats the fitment like as my I center piece is dented . unfortunately if i just replace the center I piece it won't match the rest of the original pieces grrrr some feed back would be good is there a difference between vendors or 1 makes all ?