So i have developed a conversion kit that i have installed and tested on my own 69 charger project "Black Widow" ... its an adapter that lets you use 2005- 2014 mustang disc brakes on the drum spindles and hubs.
Since the v6 mustang and the 2014 gt500 use the same spindle and all brakes are interchangable it lets you use 11.5 inch v6 brakes or the 12.5 inch gt brakes. And if using 2011-2014 gt brakes they are 13.2 inch brakes and I got mine as good low mileage takeoffs for $150. That is the set I just installed on my charger.
When I can pony up the cash I will install the 15 inch 6 piston brembo monsters.... but they require a 19 inch wheel. Even the 13.2 inch GT brakes require a 17 inch wheel. Lowest you can go is 16 inch and thats using the 11.5 inch v6 brakes.
I'll post pictures in a few minutes, but theres a video of the install on my youtube channel.
Www.youtube.com/invincibleextremes
Do you sell these?
Yeah, $120 with the bolts needed for the calipers. Theres a video of the install on the youtube channel. Look for "$150 disc brake swap 69 dodge charger" if the link doesnt work. Www.youtube.com/invincibleextremes
Sounds a lot cheaper than the $1700 Baer kit I've been looking at...
It is. its $300 if you get the brakes themselves for $180... add a master cyl and prop valve and you're at $500 tops for a 13 inch front setup... not to mention the money you save buy just using your drum spindles.
I made two versions of the bracket sets, a super heavy duty setup that i would confidently use with 15 inch 6 piston gt500 brakes or the standard duty one that can be used with the 13.2 inch.
$120 for the heavy duty set and $80 for the standard set.
Both sets are the same thickness, one uses all 4 bolts on the spindle while the other is smaller and uses just the two rearward ones.
I have similar standard duty brackets on my 68 pontiac firebird and use 13 inch corvette brakes without any issue. My Fire bird has been to 160 mph and sees daily driving and is my tow vehicle... no issues.
But i felt that developing a super heavy duty version wouldn't hurt.
this is a picture of the 13.2 inch brakes installed on my 69
What is the smallest size wheel you can use on those?
Great idea btw!
SOME 15 inch wheels work, but not all, and 16 inch wheels fit no problem if using the 2005 v6 brakes that are 11.5 inch.... the 12.5 and 13.2 require a 17 inch wheel and the 14 inch 4 piston brembo and the 15 inch 6 piston brembo brakes require 19 inch wheels...
Let's see the brackets
https://youtu.be/3aP0yzE0XDw
link to the video, has pictures and the install with a quick overview. I'll post pictures once I get a batch from the laser cutter. I made the first set myself, and several of the lighter sets, but wanting to wait to release the actual brackets untill I have something in hand for anyone that wants them. sorry.
Nice job! :cheers:
New Mustang rotors are plentiful and not too expensive so that helps. I'm not sure what the calipers go for. In any case, I'm running 17" wheels so I'm very interested in bolting some 13.2" rotors on the drum spindles. I'm glad l didn't throw away the drums yet as I'll be needing those backing plates.
I'd be interested in some of those heavy duty brackets. :2thumbs:
If you pause the video theres a couple pictures in there. Btw its not the backing plate you'll need, its the hubs... and they should work with the 73 A body disc spindles as well. Just not sure what you would then do about a hub...
Calipers are $45 per side used in good condition. But i just buy them in pairs with rotors. Never paid more than $150 plus shipping.
Ah my bad. I wasn't aware the hub separated from the drum!
$150 for a pair of rotors and calipers....alright when can you have those brackets done?! :lol:
I may want some drilled and slotted rotors though...just for show. Or maybe just slotted, the car sees a lot of road time. :yesnod:
I already have a hydroboost unit and a master cylinder so I'm good there.
I ordered some of his brackets already. I saw them on Facebook. I look forward to upgrading to larger disc. :2thumbs:
Yup. You got the first batch of the regular duty ones. Let me know how they work out for you. Sorry if the edges are a little funky, but the holes should be dead on, i triple checked them ;-)
WOW so 6 piston calipers from a mustang on a 2nd gen charger???? REALLY????? Man where do I sign up?
Stupid question probably, but how can you tell if you have drum or disc spindles? I'm running discs now, but they were converted from 10.5" drums...
I'll try and post a picture...
The above picture is of drum spindles... the 73 A body disc spindles have the same two bottom 5/8 bolts but no top 7/16 bolts... they do however have ears on the side for the factory single piston caliper to bolt on.
As it sits, the brackets themselves work with either drum or disc spindles, but the disc spindle uses a bigger inner bearing, which is a GOOD thing, the problem is that i have no idea where you would then get a hub to put a rotor on.... the drum hub is needed for the rotor.
I guess i can have my brother make a batch of bare disc hubs for the disc spindles....
But that would get expensive FAST...
Btw, this is a piece of info that is very important. It regards the hub bore of the disc brake rotors vs drum hub and why the use rotor fit so tight on my 69 charger.
There is a 1mm difference (half a mm per side) please note this before considering the disc brake swap. It wasnt an issue on my charger but may be to some.
Just wanted to make sure everyone knows this.
Chryslers' 71.5 mm =2.815 in. Fords' 70.5 mm = 2.776 inches.
I was looking into installing CTS-V calipers. Might have to do some reconsidering. :scratchchin:
Quote from: invincibleextremes on March 07, 2016, 11:08:25 PM
Btw, this is a piece of info that is very important. It regards the hub bore of the disc brake rotors vs drum hub and why the use rotor fit so tight on my 69 charger.
There is a 1mm difference (half a mm per side) please note this before considering the disc brake swap. It wasnt an issue on my charger but may be to some.
Just wanted to make sure everyone knows this.
Chryslers' 71.5 mm =2.815 in. Fords' 70.5 mm = 2.776 inches.
Were you able to fit the rotors over the hub with the assistance of a bfh or did you clean up the hub itself? I suppose a machine shop can make short work of the discrepancy...but I do own a bfh! :D
What would you guys run for master cylinder and proportioning valve?
QuoteWere you able to fit the rotors over the hub with the assistance of a bfh or did you clean up the hub itself? I suppose a machine shop can make short work of the discrepancy...but I do own a bfh!
I would cut/grind on the rotors rather than the hub in that situation.
I'm a little surprised about an 11.5" rotor with modern calipers barely clearing 15" wheels.
Are both of these Mustang caliper sizes made of aluminum?
I just cleaned up the rotor itself with a dremel drum and worked half a mm off the inside evenly and it fit...
SOME 15 inch wheels clear but not all, the mustang uses the same caliper for the 11.5 and the 12.5 brakes, just has a different bracket that places it more outward for the bigger rotors... which im guessing could be part of the problem.
I'd really like to see one of these conversions actually completed and operable with a parts list that includes a matched proportioning valve and master cylinder.
Quote from: RallyeMike on March 18, 2016, 11:14:47 PM
I'd really like to see one of these conversions actually completed and operable with a parts list that includes a matched proportioning valve and master cylinder.
:iagree:
Yup, trying to get my car together asap. The wilwood 4 wheel disc master and adjustable prop valve is 300 bucks but i may just have to bite the bullet and buy it.
Quote from: invincibleextremes on March 19, 2016, 02:32:15 PM
Yup, trying to get my car together asap. The wilwood 4 wheel disc master and adjustable prop valve is 300 bucks but i may just have to bite the bullet and buy it.
Why not try using the factory Mustang master and prop. valve?
Hmmm.... thats like the most obvious and smartest thing i've seen all day!
I just assumed they wouldn't work in our cars...
Yeah, just the master itself will not, its got the wierdest bolt pattern... but the master and booster could be adapted. In fact i'm positive theres an adapter already out there that adapters our cars to a 4 hole setup...
I assumed some firewall mods would be necessary, and probably adapt in the hydra boost setup off the mustang as well. I may have to look at the mustang stuff myself, just seems like a easy choice since the master is sized perfectly for the brakes. :shruggy:
check out invincibleextremes youtube page its awesome lots of cool videos https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpZjRXGFtgs
QuoteYeah, just the master itself will not, its got the wierdest bolt pattern... but the master and booster could be adapted. In fact i'm positive theres an adapter already out there that adapters our cars to a 4 hole setup...
I'd rather go down to a 2-hole MC mounting setup with decent aftermarket support.
Quote from: myk on March 05, 2016, 09:11:13 AM
Sounds a lot cheaper than the $1700 Baer kit I've been looking at...
iam looking at Dr. Diffs, set up. He sells a cobra style caliper with 13 inch rotors. He also has the upgrade spindle 73 OEM that will work on 70 chargers.
This is MUCH cheaper than the dr diff setup.
Heres the breakdown of the cost for a person.
Brackets -------------------------- --- $120
Calipers and rotors---------- --- $250 (or $150 used)
Wilwood master cylinder and prop --- $300 (or $190 if not using a wilwood master)
Hoses ---------------- ---- $50
If using new components and top of the line master cylinder you are looking at $720 total.... compared to the $850 price tag on the dr diff setup...
It gets cheaper if you use a $100 master and just an $85 prop valve from wilwood....
It gets even cheaper if you score $150 take off brakes from mustang guys swapping to brembo big brakes....
And you are also not having to buy a disc spindle for your budget build cornet, charger, superbee etc.... so that saves you at least $150
The first batch i am making with my brother are set up for use with both disc or drum spindles, we are thinking of making a run of aluminum hubs as well for the disc spindle guys (no drum hubs for them to use obviously...)
Plus we are developing the rear disc brake setup that will let you use the 11.8 inch rear disc brakes off the same year mustangs for balanced braking at a price thats not a kick in the nuts...
The brakes off a 2014 mustang are $200 brand new from ford, and even cheaper if all you're buying are the rear calipers and rotors....
We already have the first 25 pairs being made now, if people like em, we'll make more, if not, we'll keep making small batches for those who need them
Awesome do you have a ETA for when the rears will be done as well?
Estimated eta on the fronts is 2 weeks. It'll be 3-4 weeks from now for the rears, my hands are tied right now trying to move all my stuff AND project cars to oregon after 7 years in the army.
https://youtu.be/NpZjRXGFtgs
Heres the video of us dragging home the wifes 68 charger, it should give you some idea of how busy i am. Luckly once i get the dimensions spot on amd make a prototype, we can cnc the holes after getting a small batch laser cut. Then nickel plate the things and post pictures...
What about something like this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2005-2013-2014-FORD-MUSTANG-GT-5-0-BREMBO-14-FRONT-BRAKE-KIT-BRAKES-TRACK-PACK-/281960259947?hash=item41a624216b:g:GOoAAOSwxp9W4LoI&vxp=mtr
Yup, those 14 inch brembos fit the brackets.... as well as the 15 inch brembos... really, anything that fits an 05 through 2014 mustang will fit.
Hopefully next week i can have the first batch done and zinc plated to post pictures....
Quote from: invincibleextremes on March 04, 2016, 10:34:29 PM
So i have developed a conversion kit that i have installed and tested on my own 69 charger project "Black Widow" ... its an adapter that lets you use 2005- 2014 mustang disc brakes on the drum spindles and hubs.
Since the v6 mustang and the 2014 gt500 use the same spindle and all brakes are interchangable it lets you use 11.5 inch v6 brakes or the 12.5 inch gt brakes. And if using 2011-2014 gt brakes they are 13.2 inch brakes and I got mine as good low mileage takeoffs for $150. That is the set I just installed on my charger.
When I can pony up the cash I will install the 15 inch 6 piston brembo monsters.... but they require a 19 inch wheel. Even the 13.2 inch GT brakes require a 17 inch wheel. Lowest you can go is 16 inch and thats using the 11.5 inch v6 brakes.
I'll post pictures in a few minutes, but theres a video of the install on my youtube channel.
Www.youtube.com/invincibleextremes
My 70 charger came with original front disc brakes which are disc spindles. I thought by upgrading to the 73 and newer spindles give you a performance upgrade from the original 70 disc spindles?
No, its a maintenece upgrade... the single piston 73 brakes arent the greatest thing in the world.... but they sure are the cheapest and easiest to find.
Count me in then!
For the HD's, cause if your gonna go, it might as well be with the big boys.
Also to confirm...only through '14, not 2015 or new '16 stuff?
Yes, 2014 is the cutoff year. After that they changed the spindle on those cars, so the mounts are different, therefore the brackets wont have the right holes.
You know I'm good for a set. I want to see what the HD ones look like zinc plated. I like the sound of those!
Does the Mustang stuff have aluminum calipers?
I assume the big ones are alloy, but what about the base model 16" wheel stuff? The rear wheel stuff?
Heres the answer to that question.... this info is for a 2005 mustang. The 2011 through 2014 use bigger 13.2 inch brakes for the v8 and the 12.4 disc brakes for the v6.
Front 293 (11.5 in) x 30 mm vented disc, twin-piston 43-mm floating aluminum calipers 316 (12.4 in) x 30 mm vented disc. twin-piston 43-mm floating aluminum calipers
Rear 300 (11.8 in) x 19 mm vented disc, single piston 43 mm floating iron calipers 300 (11.8 in) x 19 mm vented disc, single piston 43 mm floating iron calipers
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I can't decide on what size to run. :icon_smile_blackeye:
If I can get the 13" in an 18" rim I might bite.
I have 15"s now, but have some 18" wheels sitting here.
Can't decide :brickwall:
Quote from: Patronus on March 28, 2016, 10:37:15 PM
I can't decide on what size to run. :icon_smile_blackeye:
If I can get the 13" in an 18" rim I might bite.
I have 15"s now, but have some 18" wheels sitting here.
Can't decide :brickwall:
According to his first post the 13" rotors fit in a 17" wheel. That's what I'll be going with.
Questions I have is with the rotor placed onto the hub are longer wheel studs necessary? And with the rotor and bracket mounted does the rotor sit in the middle of the caliper or does it need some adjusting?
Finaly got the batch from the laser cutter. I have also purchased a set of disc brake spindles and have added the extra holes for them. I have not plated any yet, but the brackets are now usable for both disc or drum spindles.
I'm fairly certain you will need longer wheel studs, not so much for the rotor, as much as for the fact that any wheels that fit the brakes are going to be aluminum and will need longer studs by themselves. You prob could use the factory studs, but there will not be much thread to attach the wheels.
Also, the holes are the same for the 2 piston, 4 piston and 6 piston calipers BUT on the mustangs, the bigger brembo brakes are bolted to the back of the spindle, not the front, so i will be adding a spacer to the brackets to replicate the thickness of the factory mustang spindle. As is, they work with 13.2 inch or the 12.5 inch v8 brakes.
Still developing the rears, but heres a picture of the brackets with a disc brake spindle.
I am trying to figure out how to get a hub for the disc brake spindles but i will not know for sure how much it will cost for us to make a set of aluminum hubs for this setup...
nice!! put me down for a set of front and back when you have them done
I have 5 unplated pairs ready for anybody who wants them. $100 shipped. This is just for the plates, they work for the 13.2 inch or 12.5 inch brakes.
These work with either the disc brake spindles or the drum spindles.
It will be a week or two before i have the spacer available for use with brembo 4 piston or 6 piston brakes.
I have also figured out the rear disc setup. It will be a two piece design with your option of using the 13.8 inch or the 11.8 inch disc brakes off the back of the 2014 gt500 shelby or the regular mustangs... i will be ordering the brackets from the laser cutter on monday and should have an install video out once i drill a few sets and install them on on of my chargers.
This is the adapter bolted to the 73 A body disc brake spindle...
This is the same exact one bolted to a 62-74 b body drum spindle....
Rear disc brakes have been mocked up and they are a go! Will be ordering some laser cut brackets on monday, they will be a two part design that will have the option of either the 11.8 inch mustang disc brakes or the 13.8 inch gt 500 shelby rear disc brakes... the center piece and caliper will be the same for both... the only difference being the rotor and the outer bracket... here is the video of the rotor and caliper mocked up on my wifes 68 charger.
https://youtu.be/kq1RXylrtZQ
So if my car is power drum, I can keep my booster and master cylinder or no. Just put these brackets and rotors on with calipers?
Luke
I thought the master and booster were different for drum and disc applications?
Ok, just what all is necessary to perform this swap? The brackets, the brakes, the master and booster from a Mustang, or would the stock ones work?
That's exactly what I'm trying to figure out. i have stock power drums right now.
Luke
Unfortunately you will NOT be able to keep your stock master cylinder. You will have to use a wilwood master cylinder and adjustable disc disc proportioning valve or equvilant.
The fronts are ready, and we have been unable to get them plated so are selling them for $100 a pair, and the rear being a two part design we are thinking of selling for $220 all together for a 4 wheel disc conversion kit... plus $300 for decent disc brakes off a 2014 mustang will keep you at $520 and leave plenty of room in your budget for a master cylinder and prop valve as well as some parking brake cables and hoses and so on...
Lets face it... thats unheard of pricing for going 4 wheel disc on a mopar B body...
DR DIFF sells a master cylinder setup for 4 wheel disc, it is imported and is also competitively priced if the wilwood master is a bit too steep....
Where do we buy them? This is on my list after summer vacation.
So I can't keep my master cylinder but what about the booster.
Luke
You can keep the booster if you find a disc brake master cylinder that bolts up to it...
Quote from: invincibleextremes on April 17, 2016, 03:54:07 PM
You can keep the booster if you find a disc brake master cylinder that bolts up to it...
Probably not gonna find one that does. So 520 bucks, then I need to by master, booster and valve.
599.99 for this whole kit looks sweet, http://www.classicperform.com/NewProducts/MoparBrakeKits/Mopar_Brake_Kits.htm
. Yeah I know theyre not 6 piston off a mustang. But I don't have to go parts hunting and price it together.
Not trying to shit in your cereal, I think what your doing is great.
When are you gonna do that question and answer video. I posted one and was wondering. Plus there are other good questions. And did you take your cat too. Lol
Luke
Oh no worries, for the guys ok with single piston brakes and drum rears and not wanting to lose their 15 inch wheels, the factory 73 A body disc brakes are a better option. I'll do the question and answer video as soon as me and the wife are in the same state... so hopefully next weekend
A drum-to-disc conversion always means a different MC, no matter what parts are used.
Got my set off ebay. Man, these things are very beefy, and I mean in a very confidence inspiring way. Now I just need a little additional clarification as far as what application gets me which brakes.
Is this correct?
2011 - 2014, V8's got 13.2", V6's got 12.4", except the Brembo stuff
2005 - 2010, V8's got 12.5", V6's got 11.5", except the Brembo stuff
Calipers are all the same, it was the bracket that set the location to work with the diameter
I'm curious how the rear bracket will mount up, and how beafy it will be, he said on FB that it works with the stock bearing setup.
Quote from: 68Charger4me on May 06, 2016, 05:26:35 PM
I'm curious how the rear bracket will mount up, and how beafy it will be, he said on FB that it works with the stock bearing setup.
That is critical to me. Personally don't want to use the green bearings. To each their own, but I feel like the stock bearing are far superior if you enjoy taking curves or cutting doughnuts. :icon_smile_big: :yesnod: :2thumbs:
Yes, sorry I have been away a bit. The front brakes use whichever caliper and rotor SET you choose EXCEPT for brembo. So if you get the 2005 v6 rotors and caliper you are good. Same goes for if you get the 2011 through 2014 caliper and rotor...
The rotors have to be cleaned up on the hub bore from a 70.5mm to a 71.5mm if you intend to use them on the stock drum hub.
Also, the brembo brakes have the holes in the right places but bolt BEHIND the mustang spindle, so i am in the process of ordering the spacer needed to make the mounting surfaces correct for those brakes as well... I am thinking $25 shipped for the spacers (or $15 if you already have the bracket) is fair.
Now on to the rear brakes. I have seen the different brakes on the market currently, and honeslty can't figure out how they mount, and bearing options etc....
Therefore I have designed the rears as a three piece.
The first piece is 11ga thick and is basically a ring that is the same thickness as your stock drum mounting setup.... this was done so you can use stock tapered bearings and literaly do not have to change the preload or anything.
The second piece is the part that bolts OVER the bearing retainer and is C shaped so it is removable and you do not need to press the bearings off the axles or anything... it will be as thick as the front brackets btw... this part has has two sets of holes for the third part, allowing your choice of 11.8 or 13.8 inch rotors...
The third part holds the caliper and bolts to the outer or inner set of holes of the C shaped bracket.... again this is to allow your choice of 13.8 or 11.8 inch rotor...
My hold up with the rears is that I myself do not work at a machine shop. My younger brother does, and I have talked to his boss and getting a small batch of 10 pairs laser cut isn't a big deal but to make the order the file has to be first designed in SOLIDWORKS (which I did) and then converted into yet a different type of file to place the order...
I will be in oregon in a couple days (crazy cross country muscle car roadtrips going on) and before I leave to hawaii for the weekend I am thinking of cutting out the two middle men and going straight to the laser cutter... after all, I drill all the front brackets myself with a decent drill press and one perfect drill guide templete that I have created....
So I will be doing my best to drive this forward with a small batch of rears and then I will see. Sorry again for the delay, but if you take one look at my youtube channel you will quickly realize why... my wife and kids are at the in laws in nebraska, I have the brackets and my brother up in oregon, and I myself am hauling about a dozen muscle projects across the country one by one.
Which btw brings me to another point... the 2006 and UP chrysler 300 platform basicaly uses the same brakes... 13.6 front rotor with a twin piston caliper and a 12.6 inch rear rotor with a single piston caliper.
I am fairly positive that I can design a conversion for those brakes as well, my only concern is that the pistons on those brakes are plastic (phenelic?) And the rears do not have a built in parking brake...
Any interest in those? Or maybe a hybrid kit that uses the single piston mustang rear caliper and the 12.6 inch rear dodge rotors?
Using an all dodge set up would leave you with no parking brake options and the pistons dodge uses in the chargers are a synthetic material...
Either way, i snagged a dodge/chrysler twin piston caliper off ebay and will try and see if maybe the brackets I already have designed can just accept a second set of holes and use either the ford or the dodge brakes.... (and be lighter as a result)
What is everyones opinion on this?
Btw GARNER7555 I just caught your thread on the facebooks and HOLY COW your charger looks good. And the 14 inch brembo brakes are looking pretty gnarly up front. I need to hurry up and send you some rear brackets lol.
Thanks for the info, I think I'd rather have the parking brake in the caliper..
Garner7555 used a set of fronts and used them to mount the 14 inch 4 piston brembo brakes. He had to add a .308 inch spacer to the back for proper mount of the brembo brakes.
I still have to clean up and paint the brakes but I am super excited to have this type of brakes on the front of this heavy beast! Especially considering how cheap I'm into this setup. :2thumbs:
QuoteGarner7555 used a set of fronts and used them to mount the 14 inch 4 piston brembo brakes. He had to add a .308 inch spacer to the back for proper mount of the brembo brakes.
Roughly how big of a wheel rim does it take to clear this huge setup?
(I know there is some variation among wheel brands.)
18 inch wheel will clear the 14 inch brakes. If you wanna get crazy with the 15 inch 6 piston brakes then you are looking at a 19 inch wheel minimum....
The 13.2 inch brakes clear a 17 inch wheel just fine though.
I currently have 20" wheels bolted on it but yes the 18" should clear these 14" without issue. :2thumbs: I think you can run a 17" if you step down to the 13.2" rotors. :shruggy:
All the pieces for the rear setup have been ordered, so sometime next week i should have them installed on my wifes 68 charger 8 3/4 and will post pics. I will have 5 complete sets for thos who have been waiting. All i could afford at the time to get laser cut. But once those are shipped out i can always order more, takes a week for me to get the pieces from the laser cutter and i am going to try and keep a few sets on hand all the time.
I'll be buying a set, and will definitely be posting the install on my thread :2thumbs:
I've picked up the rotors and pads, just need to get a set of stock calipers now (Shouldn't be more than 200$ for all 4).
I'm actually rather pumped to be running this setup on my car. Up to this point everything in the resto has been a boat; "Bust out another thousand".
Definitely interested if I can stay with my 15" REV's. :yesnod:
People on the net agree the 13.2" rotor setups fit under 17" wheels.
But they also agree that the 12.4 rotors won't clear 16" wheels. Does that make sense? I mean, Mopar put 11.75 rotors under 15" wheels.
I know it's the calipers that actually do the interfering. But it seems like a wide disparity here.
Are the 12.4 setups mounting the caliper in the same place as they do for the 13.2 setups, or something?
The 11.5, 12.5 and 13.2 front brakes all use the same caliper... but the caliper mount itself is different for each rotor size.
Could be that the caliper itself is bulky... plus mopar single piston cardoba brakes are a tight fit on 15 inch wheels. Modern brakes are bulkier.
I'd like to squeeze the 12.4 rotors under a 16" wheel. Makes me wonder if there is a way.
If those 12.4's were the Mustang GT size a few years ago, and 16" wheels were standard on non-GT's at the time . . . then I'm sure Mustang guys have already investigated whether this swap was possible.
(UPDATE: the 1990s Thunderbird forums seem to think it's possible.)
Is there a different bracket for each rotor size?
Not my bracket, i meant the actual caliper bracket that comes with the caliper off the mustang is different for each rotor size.
My bracket replicates the 2005 through 2014 mustang spindle, so any complete brake setup off those cars will work with a minor clean up of the rotor hub.
Do you know if the 11.5 will fit the 15 inch wheels?
No they do not. The mustang guys who drag race use some oddball specialty 15 inch wheel and its the only one that fits thats a 15. 16 inch wheels are the minimum for these brakes, sorry. The only brake setup that will clear a 15 inch wheel using stock parts is the 73 and up single piston swap.
I have some explorer rear discs laying around and the rears should be here after the weekend, so i will look into a third position allowing the use of the smaller explorer rotor and the mustang caliper....
That way the guys can use the existing setup if they buy mine and still use 15 inch slicks once in a while at the drag strip.....
Currently my setup is designed to use either the 11.8 or the 13.8 inch shelby gt500 rear rotors, and can go back and forth because the caliper is the same and my brackets are setup that way...
If a third position is succesful i will definately let you guys know.
Thanks for the info, I was just looking to upgrade my rear brakes.
Got the rear brakes in, i have 5 complete sets of rear brackets for the 11.8 or 13.8 inch rear rotors. So anyone who wants a set get ahold of me. The rears $180 for a complete bracket set and the fronts are $110. I am selling them together for $260. The complete kit will let you use the brakes off of any 2005 through 2014 mustang. Different mustangs have different brake options, and all of them have been described in this thread.
Some time next week I will get the spacer ordered to be able to use the 14 inch 4 piston or the 15 inch 6 piston brakes as well.
Also, those of you who made this possible and have purchased the front brakes from me will be getting a discount for the rears as well. PM me for details.
Ok, well, about 8 different people have my fronts, or 4 wheel setups... looking forward to seeing some installed.
Quote from: invincibleextremes on June 10, 2016, 06:01:15 PM
Ok, well, about 8 different people have my fronts, or 4 wheel setups... looking forward to seeing some installed.
I installed my front brackets over the weekend. However I have to go to the field for a couple weeks and will post some pics of the complete set-up at the end of the month.
Still got two sets of complete 4 wheel disc brake conversion brackets left. $250 if anybody wants them. Roughly 5 pairs of just fronts left as well. $100 shipped
Ya'll have a happy 4th of july ;-)
Rear axel Dana-60 setup:
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13707737_10153660875661892_1309613260662958347_n.jpg?oh=1f86da271035c7f21af7c9f46c2eec31&oe=57F000CC)
Quote from: invincibleextremes on May 28, 2016, 10:30:57 PM
No they do not. The mustang guys who drag race use some oddball specialty 15 inch wheel and its the only one that fits thats a 15. 16 inch wheels are the minimum for these brakes, sorry. The only brake setup that will clear a 15 inch wheel using stock parts is the 73 and up single piston swap
I'd love to get a set of the front brackets, but I want to do black steelie wheels with 'poverty' hub caps. Does anyone know where to find 5x4.5 steelies in 16x8? Seems like whatever money I save on the brakes with this (awesome) set up, I'll end up spending on custom wheels and I have to give up on the 15" steelies.......
Diamond racing wheels. They make a 16 inch steelie for 90 bucks, any size and offset
Has anyone had experience with Vintiques Wheels from Summit? They have a 16x8 with four inch backspace and 16x7 with four inch backspace for about $100 each.
Seems like bad reviews on the Diamond Racing wheels - marginal quality?
I just snagged a set of the brackets from him myself for my car. Now I need to turn my rotors down to get them going.
Be Advised-
The 13.2 front conversion DO NOT clear 17 inch MB Old School wheels. I will post pictures later on today.
Quote from: Ryan.C on August 07, 2016, 09:28:05 AM
Be Advised-
The 13.2 front conversion DO NOT clear 17 inch MB Old School wheels. I will post pictures later on today.
That's bad news, I was gonna get a set of those for mine as well. What's the next size down?
QuoteBe Advised-
The 13.2 front conversion DO NOT clear 17 inch MB Old School wheels. I will post pictures later on today.
That brings the options down to, what, 11.5" inch rotors? On 17" wheels?
Screw that. How far are the 13.2's from clearing? Could you grind the calipers enough?
Or grind some meat off the perimeter of the 13.2" rotors, and use a one-off caliper bracket that positions the caliper a bit closer in? (Hey, some 4x4 guys will grind 1/4" off the ring gear of a huge Dana axle just for clearance.)
Next size down is 12.4 using the exact same caliper on a different mount. Wondering if its the straight spokes or the wheel that doesnt clear?
Quote from: invincibleextremes on August 07, 2016, 03:25:04 PM
Next size down is 12.4 using the exact same caliper on a different mount. Wondering if its the straight spokes or the wheel that doesnt clear?
It is the wheel that does not clear. The caliper gets larger towards the rear and the inside diameter of the wheel gets smaller towards the spokes. As the two come together it makes contact. I got out the die grinder and have taken off a substantial amount of material off of the caliper and it looks like with a little more grinding I can get the clearance necessary however, I think I will end up running a 1/4 wheel spacer to clear the caliper bracket once I get the wheel a little closer to where it needs to be. I will see how much material needs to come off before making a determination if this is safe. I figure I am in this deep I might as well keep going just to see.
I got called into work today and am unable to post pics. I will see what I can do tonight.
Oh ok. You can reuse those calipers, if you get the 2005-2010 mounts and a set of 12.4 rotors... that'd be a lot safer than using a 1/4 spacer...
Oh yeah, I had forgotten about the 12.4" rotors.
That makes it feasible to step down a notch.
--------------------------
I'm kinda curious whether the basic Mustang front calipers (2-piston alloy) could be made to grab some kind of 11" disc inside an old-school 15" wheel. With little vintage wheels the shallow depth of the "hat" on modern rotors begins to pose a problem.
The 12.4 setup is actually easier to get ahold of,
Has anyone completed the front swap and replaced the lug studs? The shoulder/knurl on the stock drum studs interferes with the discs, and ideally I'd like to get some longer studs because of the added width of the disc. Not many threads left to bite. I can clearance the discs to get them to mate flat to the hubs, but then I'd have to do it each time I replace the rotors (not often), and the studs would still be shorter than I like.
I measured the hubs and I got 0.500" knurl length (width of the hub) and knurl diameter of 0.625".
The closest I can find is this one:
http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=20167&SEName=610-368 (http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=20167&SEName=610-368)
If you look at the specifications tab it's a knurl diameter of 0.627" and a shoulder length of 0.513". Total length is longer than stock at 1.969"
It looks like ARP sells some that are 0.625" w/ 0.400" knurl length but they are 3.5" long and I don't really need/want them that long.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7703 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-7703)
Seems my options are to try the Dormans or get the ARP studs and cut them down. Have any of you completed the conversion and how have you addressed this issue?
Thanks,
Clay
Moser sells studs in .625 knurl. 1/2-20.
Cool, I thought it was a big deal to cut down wheel studs but looks like it's fairly common practice.
Progress! Finally making some decent progress on the brakes. I'm currently held up on the brake booster but should have that sorted early next week and then I'll be off for an alignment.
I went with the 13" Mustang GT brakes. The calipers were taken off a new car, less than 10 miles on those. I got a good deal on the rotors, too, so for around $400 including the brackets, I have front discs. For anyone doing this conversion that has to buy caliper mounting bolts, I bought M12 x1.75 25mm grade 5 from Home Depot.
(http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc464/funkyjonx/brakes1.jpeg)
(http://i1213.photobucket.com/albums/cc464/funkyjonx/brakes2.jpeg)
These are 18" x 8" AR Torq Thrust II with 4.5" backspacing and while there's plenty of room around the inner perimeter of the wheel, the spokes do contact the caliper. It's really minor, I'm guessing less than 1/16".
There's plenty of meat on the calipers, so no worries there. A few minutes with a grinder and a flap disc and I'll be good to go! :2thumbs:
The 12.4 inch kit seams to be the best comprisemise in fit and money. The 13.2 setup only clears certain wheels it seams.
Got another batch of rears as well as the spacers needed to run brembo brakes getting cut. Should be ready to go in a couple weeks for those who wanted the 4 wheel disc adapters.
Trying to finish things up. Just got most of the new brake lines in. How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line? :shruggy:
The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.
Anyone got pics?
Quote from: funknut on October 21, 2016, 11:28:38 PM
Trying to finish things up. Just got most of the new brake lines in. How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line? :shruggy:
The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.
Anyone got pics?
I flipped my calipers left to right and right to left. I also used the banjo bolt that came with the mustang caliper to mount my original Chrysler disc brake hoses. If someone has a better way I am all ears as I am not exactly happy with the way mine are currently routed either.
Have another batch ready to go if anyone is interested.
Are you guys having to use longer lower spindle bolts? As a rule of thumb you need at least the nut's thickness of bolt sticking through, mine sits about flush. Are you still using the castle nut with cotter pin or did you go Grade 8 and locknut?
I got all new grade 8 hardware and locknuts for the spindles. It was a pain to find locally so I ordered them from https://www.fmwfasteners.com. Cost me about $25 shipped. No idea if I got a good deal or not. :lol:
5/8"x18 -3"
7/16"x20 -2"
Thanks....I had to order some as well. Not too common of a size locally for me either.
Also, what wheel studs did you decide to go with? Are you using the ones you listed funknut? How much longer do they need to be for aftermarket alumninum wheels?
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on December 18, 2016, 01:40:49 PM
Also, what wheel studs did you decide to go with? Are you using the ones you listed funknut? How much longer do they need to be for aftermarket alumninum wheels?
I ended up going with the ARP studs and cut them down so I could use an acorn style lug nut with them. I didn't really like the look of the long studs sticking out, plus the ARP studs are a gold color which didn't look right to me. I measured quite a bit before I cut, and the aluminum wheel is definitely thicker than the steel mag 500s I had on before.
This is what worked great for me: I drilled a hole in a 2x4, pushed the stud through and tightened it down with a short open ended wheel lug. Then I just cut the stud flush with the top of the lug using an angle grinder and cutoff wheel. This left me with plenty of threads. If you go this route I highly recommend hitting it with a flap wheel to take some of the sharp edges off. I was in a hurry and just installed them. Trying to clean them up after they're installed is a pain.
Heads up! The 11 inch drums have a different hub that has a more inboard mounting face and therefore does not work with this setup. This setup is properly spaced for the cheaper 10 inch drum hubs... so yeah. The one and only guy I knew who used the setup on his 11 inch drum hubs had to go out and get some b body 10 inch hubs...
Mine were 11" drums.....mine seemed to fit. Where is the problem exactly?
Maybe I don't have 11" drums....they are not finned. I read the 11" drums were finned...My build sheet calls out HD brakes, I guess I thought that meant the bigger 11" brakes.....???
Quote from: Ryan.C on October 22, 2016, 03:57:42 PM
Quote from: funknut on October 21, 2016, 11:28:38 PM
Trying to finish things up. Just got most of the new brake lines in. How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line? :shruggy:
The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.
Anyone got pics?
I flipped my calipers left to right and right to left. I also used the banjo bolt that came with the mustang caliper to mount my original Chrysler disc brake hoses. If someone has a better way I am all ears as I am not exactly happy with the way mine are currently routed either.
Had the same problem as you, the soft lines that came with the kit are made for front mounted calipers and just would not work, no matter how I tried them. I went with the 15" versions from Dr. Diff below. Problem solved.
http://www.doctordiff.com/stainless-front-brake-flex-hose-kit.html
Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on December 24, 2016, 09:41:59 AM
Quote from: Ryan.C on October 22, 2016, 03:57:42 PM
Quote from: funknut on October 21, 2016, 11:28:38 PM
Trying to finish things up. Just got most of the new brake lines in. How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line? :shruggy:
The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.
Anyone got pics?
I flipped my calipers left to right and right to left. I also used the banjo bolt that came with the mustang caliper to mount my original Chrysler disc brake hoses. If someone has a better way I am all ears as I am not exactly happy with the way mine are currently routed either.
Had the same problem as you, the soft lines that came with the kit are made for front mounted calipers and just would not work, no matter how I tried them. I went with the 15" versions from Dr. Diff below. Problem solved.
http://www.doctordiff.com/stainless-front-brake-flex-hose-kit.html
:2thumbs: I will order a set, thanks much!
Quote from: invincibleextremes on December 23, 2016, 02:33:19 PM
Heads up! The 11 inch drums have a different hub that has a more inboard mounting face and therefore does not work with this setup. This setup is properly spaced for the cheaper 10 inch drum hubs... so yeah. The one and only guy I knew who used the setup on his 11 inch drum hubs had to go out and get some b body 10 inch hubs...
Please explain... Does the rotor not center up in the caliper? Can this be fixed with a small spacer/washers on the bracket? I already trashed the 11" drums getting the hubs out. I don't really want to buy any more major parts if this can be easily fixed.
Not sure about the washer thing, considering the bracket is on the front of the spindle. :brickwall:
How much is it off? Maybe the bracket can be milled down a little. It is 3/8" thick, so I don't think a 1/16" or so would be significant. The cost may be cheaper and easier than trying to source some 10" drum hubs. Just barely thinking out loud.
You could, its just not something I can do. Its roughly a 1/8 too far inboard.
Just wanted to post up some info. on the 10" and 11" hub deal. I finally got around to mocking up my 11" hubs. Of course this is after buying some 10" hubs (Thanks Troy), after reading the post a little above. Here are the pics. To me the 11" hub appears to fit, seemingly better than the 10". The top pic is the 11" and the bottom is the 10".
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on February 10, 2017, 08:28:13 AM
Just wanted to post up some info. on the 10" and 11" hub deal. I finally got around to mocking up my 11" hubs. Of course this is after buying some 10" hubs (Thanks Troy), after reading the post a little above. Here are the pics. To me the 11" hub appears to fit, seemingly better than the 10". The top pic is the 11" and the bottom is the 10".
I may have spoke too soon on this matter. The issue with the 11" hub appears to be the grease seal. If you look at the 11" seal (#8121s) compared to the 10" seal (#6840s), it is almost twice as thick. Every other measurement is the same as with the 10" seal, except the height. It has a lip that protrudes out past the hub a bit. Maybe this is what is causing the fit issues. I am going to take my stuff to the parts store today and do some comparing. I may try to use a 10" seal on my 11" hub. I'm just not seeing the purpose of the lip on the (#8121s) seal. To me, that portion of the hub looks and fits on the spindle exactly the same. I know nobody else on this thread is mentioning having a problem, so this may just be for my own entertainment, but I will post my findings for future reference. Thanks.
Ok, I went to the parts store and looked at each seal, bought two of the 11" versions. Here is a pic of the 11" hub seal. I thought maybe the lip was hitting the step on the spindle but it slips right over. I can see on the spindle step where the old seal rode on for 49 years. I don't have the other seal to show you, but it is flat like a normal grease seal. Looking at it on the counter, I still don't see where the 11" hub seal would interfere anymore than the 10" hub seal, which (almost) brings me back to my thinking the 11" hubs will work. I'm expecting some new Timken bearings and races today, so I will mock it up again when I get everything together. Definite maybe on looking like it will work. Sorry for the thread jack, I just thought some info. on the matter can't be a bad thing.
Great work on the testing. :2thumbs: I have just got my 14" Brembos rebuilt and installed but unfortunately I don't really have any success posting pictures here. :brickwall:
Unfortunately, I think all of this b.s. worrying about getting my 11" hubs to fit is probably all for nothing. I bought some new wheel studs and they just fall right in the stud holes. I guess when I pounded the old ones out without first removing the swage, I enlarged the hole.....whoops! I could just tack them in, but I'm not sure its worth all the trouble. Its just the 11" hubs look so much beefier, I would have really preferred to use them. I am still gonna mock up the 11" hub now that I have come this far just so I will know. We will see.
Oh man, sounds like an adventure!
Troy
Ok, I'm throwing in the towel on the 11" hubs. They seem to fit, although I cant say for sure but I'm not wasting any more time on them. I cant use them anyway because of the stud holes being too big. Well, I could, but it would be more work. I already have the 10" hubs, so Im going that route. I'm tired of beating races in and out. I will post pics when I get everything put together.
Quote from: Ryan.C on August 07, 2016, 04:05:15 PM
Quote from: invincibleextremes on August 07, 2016, 03:25:04 PM
Next size down is 12.4 using the exact same caliper on a different mount. Wondering if its the straight spokes or the wheel that doesnt clear?
It is the wheel that does not clear. The caliper gets larger towards the rear and the inside diameter of the wheel gets smaller towards the spokes. As the two come together it makes contact. I got out the die grinder and have taken off a substantial amount of material off of the caliper and it looks like with a little more grinding I can get the clearance necessary however, I think I will end up running a 1/4 wheel spacer to clear the caliper bracket once I get the wheel a little closer to where it needs to be. I will see how much material needs to come off before making a determination if this is safe. I figure I am in this deep I might as well keep going just to see.
I got called into work today and am unable to post pics. I will see what I can do tonight.
Hey Ryan, what did you end up doing to fix the clearance issue?
He clearanced the caliper itself a bit.
He used the 13.2 inch front setup, if using the American racing 17 inch wheel I recommend going with a 12.4 front setup for a lot less headache.... or use a different 17 inch wheel...
Here's pics of the 14 inch brembo setup with 11.8 rears on Garners charger.
Quote from: Dino on February 16, 2017, 10:22:55 PM
Quote from: Ryan.C on August 07, 2016, 04:05:15 PM
Quote from: invincibleextremes on August 07, 2016, 03:25:04 PM
Next size down is 12.4 using the exact same caliper on a different mount. Wondering if its the straight spokes or the wheel that doesnt clear?
It is the wheel that does not clear. The caliper gets larger towards the rear and the inside diameter of the wheel gets smaller towards the spokes. As the two come together it makes contact. I got out the die grinder and have taken off a substantial amount of material off of the caliper and it looks like with a little more grinding I can get the clearance necessary however, I think I will end up running a 1/4 wheel spacer to clear the caliper bracket once I get the wheel a little closer to where it needs to be. I will see how much material needs to come off before making a determination if this is safe. I figure I am in this deep I might as well keep going just to see.
I got called into work today and am unable to post pics. I will see what I can do tonight.
Hey Ryan, what did you end up doing to fix the clearance issue?
The calipers have plenty of meat on them so I was not afraid to grind on them a bit to get the necessary clearance. It would have been a heck of a lot easier to use a smaller rotor :Twocents:
That being said I would do it again to get the bigger rotor in that wheel :2thumbs:
How much of the caliper did you have to grind off and how thick is it now? Roughly.
Quote from: Dino on February 17, 2017, 08:09:20 PM
How much of the caliper did you have to grind off and how thick is it now? Roughly.
Sorry I did not take measurements however, the pictures should tell the story.
Thanks for the pics! :cheers:
Looks like you had to remove quite a bit yet the calipers still look pretty beefy. The large rotor sure looks nice in there!
Quote from: Dino on February 17, 2017, 08:26:50 PM
Thanks for the pics! :cheers:
Looks like you had to remove quite a bit yet the calipers still look pretty beefy. The large rotor sure looks nice in there!
I really did remove a lot of material. If you go to do this use a tiger paw (80 grit) and soak it with oil to prevent gumming the paper up!
Good luck Dino.
Quote from: Ryan.C on February 17, 2017, 08:33:52 PM
Quote from: Dino on February 17, 2017, 08:26:50 PM
Thanks for the pics! :cheers:
Looks like you had to remove quite a bit yet the calipers still look pretty beefy. The large rotor sure looks nice in there!
I really did remove a lot of material. If you go to do this use a tiger paw (80 grit) and soak it with oil to prevent gumming the paper up!
Good luck Dino.
Thanks! :cheers:
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on February 16, 2017, 09:59:29 PM
Ok, I'm throwing in the towel on the 11" hubs. They seem to fit, although I cant say for sure but I'm not wasting any more time on them. I cant use them anyway because of the stud holes being too big. Well, I could, but it would be more work. I already have the 10" hubs, so Im going that route. I'm tired of beating races in and out. I will post pics when I get everything put together.
OK.....change to the change. I went ahead and built the 11" hubs. I couldn't let it go without trying. They fit perfectly, with the seals installed too, no interference. No modifications were needed at all. I won't be able to post a pic until next week. So just an FYI, the 11" hubs DO fit. Sorry for the back and forth.Thanks
I went with the big ones for my car. 15" fronts with 6 piston calipers and the 13.8" rears. I'm going to start putting it all together soon. I just went up to a 20" wheel. All the calipers I bought from Ford. They weren't cheap, but I want really good brakes for a change. For the hub's, I called Dr. Diff and he sold me a set of hubs that he uses with his kits. I have to use 15" long braided brake hoses up front. I did find a master cylinder that matched the bore size and stroke of a 2013 Shelby gt500 off of I believe it was a 1985 diplomat. So it will work easily with my charger.
OK.....change to the change. I went ahead and built the 11" hubs. I couldn't let it go without trying. They fit perfectly, with the seals installed too, no interference. No modifications were needed at all. I won't be able to post a pic until next week. So just an FYI, the 11" hubs DO fit. Sorry for the back and forth.Thanks
[/quote]
I got some Brembos out of the junkyard. Soda blasted them and rebuilt them.
Nice!
Where the heck did you find Brembo's in a junkyard?? I never even though of looking there. What did these come on?
Painted them Viper red to match the car. Also put some OEM rear Mustang GT brakes on my 8.75. It is really awesome to have this as an option for our heavy old cars. :2thumbs: I really look forward to driving the car, this should be a slight improvement over the 10" drums. :smilielol:
Quote from: Dino on March 21, 2017, 06:39:59 AM
Nice!
Where the heck did you find Brembo's in a junkyard?? I never even though of looking there. What did these come on?
This was an aftermarket kit added to a 2007 Mustang GT.
https://www.racetechnologies.com/products/brakekits/gt-1b-8046a-0?vehicle=8338
But the GT500 cars came factory with Brembos. Do a search on Ebay as there are 4 piston and 6 piston kits out there for sale. I am stoked about having this quality of brakes on the car for less than $1000 total investment. :2thumbs:
That's a steal! :2thumbs:
Quote from: Ryan.C on February 17, 2017, 08:23:35 PM
Quote from: Dino on February 17, 2017, 08:09:20 PM
How much of the caliper did you have to grind off and how thick is it now? Roughly.
Sorry I did not take measurements however, the pictures should tell the story.
I started a new thread on spacers. The issue with the 13" rotors and calipers is that the calipers hit the spokes correct? So a 1/2" spacer should clear the caliper? I may go with a thicker spacer, just trying to get an idea. I don't know if other calipers can be made to fit, something like the Brembos, but I want these wheels moved out regardless.
Quote from: Dino on March 23, 2017, 07:08:05 PM
Quote from: Ryan.C on February 17, 2017, 08:23:35 PM
Quote from: Dino on February 17, 2017, 08:09:20 PM
How much of the caliper did you have to grind off and how thick is it now? Roughly.
Sorry I did not take measurements however, the pictures should tell the story.
I started a new thread on spacers. The issue with the 13" rotors and calipers is that the calipers hit the spokes correct? So a 1/2" spacer should clear the caliper? I may go with a thicker spacer, just trying to get an idea. I don't know if other calipers can be made to fit, something like the Brembos, but I want these wheels moved out regardless.
For people who haven't purchased their wheels yet, would a different offset wheel be enough to clear the spokes?
Quote from: garner7555 on March 23, 2017, 08:21:27 PM
Quote from: Dino on March 23, 2017, 07:08:05 PM
Quote from: Ryan.C on February 17, 2017, 08:23:35 PM
Quote from: Dino on February 17, 2017, 08:09:20 PM
How much of the caliper did you have to grind off and how thick is it now? Roughly.
Sorry I did not take measurements however, the pictures should tell the story.
I started a new thread on spacers. The issue with the 13" rotors and calipers is that the calipers hit the spokes correct? So a 1/2" spacer should clear the caliper? I may go with a thicker spacer, just trying to get an idea. I don't know if other calipers can be made to fit, something like the Brembos, but I want these wheels moved out regardless.
For people who haven't purchased their wheels yet, would a different offset wheel be enough to clear the spokes?
I think so. Looking at the material removed from the caliper I guess a little bit more offset would do the trick.
Quote from: garner7555 on March 23, 2017, 08:21:27 PM
For people who haven't purchased their wheels yet, would a different offset wheel be enough to clear the spokes?
I'm not sure because to move the spokes in reference to the caliper, the space you need to create is between the wheel mounting surface and the rotor. Offset may just be where the spokes (and wheel mounting surface) are located within the barrel of the wheel. If there's no change to the wheel mounting surface in relation to the spokes, I'm not sure an offset change would help.
Quote from: funknut on March 23, 2017, 09:52:12 PM
Quote from: garner7555 on March 23, 2017, 08:21:27 PM
For people who haven't purchased their wheels yet, would a different offset wheel be enough to clear the spokes?
I'm not sure because to move the spokes in reference to the caliper, the space you need to create is between the wheel mounting surface and the rotor. Offset may just be where the spokes (and wheel mounting surface) are located within the barrel of the wheel. If there's no change to the wheel mounting surface in relation to the spokes, I'm not sure an offset change would help.
You're right, hadn't though of that.
Quote from: funknut on March 23, 2017, 09:52:12 PM
Quote from: garner7555 on March 23, 2017, 08:21:27 PM
For people who haven't purchased their wheels yet, would a different offset wheel be enough to clear the spokes?
I'm not sure because to move the spokes in reference to the caliper, the space you need to create is between the wheel mounting surface and the rotor. Offset may just be where the spokes (and wheel mounting surface) are located within the barrel of the wheel. If there's no change to the wheel mounting surface in relation to the spokes, I'm not sure an offset change would help.
Very good point. I wasn't thinking clearly on that. :2thumbs:
Can I use these brackets if I install the 13" rotor with a Brembo caliper? The calipers seem a bit thinner than the stock calipers which may solve the clearance issue with some of the 17" wheels. Are all these Brembo calipers the same and do they come with different brackets?
The brembo calipers that work with the brackets are for either the 14 or 15 inch rotors for the 4 piston or 6 piston calipers... using those would put you into a whole new wheel size entirely. The kind of wheels that would clear would be something like the bigger boss 338 wheels, the spokes bow out some.
Quote from: invincibleextremes on March 31, 2017, 03:23:17 AM
The brembo calipers that work with the brackets are for either the 14 or 15 inch rotors for the 4 piston or 6 piston calipers... using those would put you into a whole new wheel size entirely. The kind of wheels that would clear would be something like the bigger boss 338 wheels, the spokes bow out some.
I was just wondering if I could fit Brembo's off another model onto the Mustang 13" rotors, or maybe use everything off a newer Charger or Challenger in that size range. The Brembo's are sweet and they seem to be less bulky than the Mustang calipers.
If you send some dodge calipers and rotors my way off a srt8 300 or a charger or magnum or challenger I could probably build some brackets. In fact that was the direction I was planning on going but the factory dodge calipers use plastic pistons and don't have built in parking brakes so they're a no go for almost all uses ... except the 4 piston brembos, but that's a lot of work for a very tiny market.
Although if enough people want em, I can make it happen.
I forgot about the plastic pistons. I remember you saying that before. Parking brake is a must. There's always some older Mercedes Brembo's on ebay as well. They don't look quite as cool as the newer ones but they might do the job. I have to find out if they have a built in parking brake though. I found a few sets of front and rear calipers off an 01 Benz. Front rotors on those are 13.6" and rear are 13". I wonder if those would work on the Mustang rotors. There are other model calipers as well of course but a set of 4 can be had for $200 and that's not bad.
Benz Brembo's do not have parking brakes. There are kits for that.
I think I need to chill out, get the stock Mustang stuff, install the adapters to push the wheels out a bit and be done with it!
Quote from: Dino on March 31, 2017, 07:39:55 PM
Benz Brembo's do not have parking brakes. There are kits for that.
I think I need to chill out, get the stock Mustang stuff, install the adapters to push the wheels out a bit and be done with it!
If you want to stay with 17" wheels then I would just use the ford oem stuff. :Twocents: Those will still stop great!! :yesnod: Maybe even try the smaller diameter rotors and see if it clears. :shruggy:
Which are what? 12.5"? Yeah those would work fine. I would like my wheels to move out a bit though, always wanted that, so if I do use the adapters then the 13" rotors should work fine as well. Either one will do the job no doubt. Especially with the hydroboost system. :yesnod:
What a great thread, this will be my choice for sure, thanks! :drool5:
What type of Brembo does Ford use? I assume 4-piston Brembos taken from other cars should work as well?
14 inch 4 piston or 15 inch 6 piston... and no I don't think random brembos will work with my adapters. But I do know they sell 8 piston 16.2 inch brakes for those mustangs.... not brembo, some wacky taiwanese company.
The adapters basically mimick 2005 to 2014 mustang spindles and rear diff and let you use whatever brakes your budget, wheels and taste allows for...
What are you guys who are running rear discs, doing with the rear axle brake lines? Are you having to cut and re-flare to put the end in a better location, or are you bending new ones from scratch? Will the factory drum lines work as is? Are you affixing some type of bracket to the axle housing near the calipers to support the hard line/flex line connection? Thanks.
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on May 26, 2017, 07:41:12 AM
What are you guys who are running rear discs, doing with the rear axle brake lines? Are you having to cut and re-flare to put the end in a better location, or are you bending new ones from scratch? Will the factory drum lines work as is? Are you affixing some type of bracket to the axle housing near the calipers to support the hard line/flex line connection? Thanks.
I just used factory style drum brake hard lines, and bent them where I wanted them by hand. :2thumbs:
Quote from: garner7555 on May 27, 2017, 07:16:34 AM
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on May 26, 2017, 07:41:12 AM
What are you guys who are running rear discs, doing with the rear axle brake lines? Are you having to cut and re-flare to put the end in a better location, or are you bending new ones from scratch? Will the factory drum lines work as is? Are you affixing some type of bracket to the axle housing near the calipers to support the hard line/flex line connection? Thanks.
I just used factory style drum brake hard lines, and bent them where I wanted them by hand. :2thumbs:
I used my original lines as well. After I cleaned them up anyway.
Awesome. Thanks guys. I was thinking of going with ss lines. Will they bend as easily or not so much?
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on May 27, 2017, 12:12:58 PM
Awesome. Thanks guys. I was thinking of going with ss lines. Will they bend as easily or not so much?
I used Stainless lines everywhere on my car. I like them, just like steel, except it shouldn't rust. :2thumbs:
Quote from: garner7555 on May 27, 2017, 04:08:54 PM
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on May 27, 2017, 12:12:58 PM
Awesome. Thanks guys. I was thinking of going with ss lines. Will they bend as easily or not so much?
I used Stainless lines everywhere on my car. I like them, just like steel, except it shouldn't rust. :2thumbs:
Stainless steel it is then. Thanks.
Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on December 24, 2016, 09:41:59 AM
Quote from: Ryan.C on October 22, 2016, 03:57:42 PM
Quote from: funknut on October 21, 2016, 11:28:38 PM
Trying to finish things up. Just got most of the new brake lines in. How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line? :shruggy:
The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.
Anyone got pics?
I flipped my calipers left to right and right to left. I also used the banjo bolt that came with the mustang caliper to mount my original Chrysler disc brake hoses. If someone has a better way I am all ears as I am not exactly happy with the way mine are currently routed either.
Had the same problem as you, the soft lines that came with the kit are made for front mounted calipers and just would not work, no matter how I tried them. I went with the 15" versions from Dr. Diff below. Problem solved.
http://www.doctordiff.com/stainless-front-brake-flex-hose-kit.html
The Dr Diff hoses have a different size thread banjo bolt. I guess the 2014 Mustang GT brakes differ from the Cobra calipers he carries. Did anyone else not have this issue?
I ordered stainless steel front flex lines for a 2011 Mustang GT from Stoptech. Lines are a little bit longer than I'd like but they otherwise work great. I have my calipers rear mounted. I can grab a pic later today.
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on May 28, 2017, 10:32:21 AM
Quote from: BLK 68 R/T on December 24, 2016, 09:41:59 AM
Quote from: Ryan.C on October 22, 2016, 03:57:42 PM
Quote from: funknut on October 21, 2016, 11:28:38 PM
Trying to finish things up. Just got most of the new brake lines in. How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line? :shruggy:
The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.
Anyone got pics?
I flipped my calipers left to right and right to left. I also used the banjo bolt that came with the mustang caliper to mount my original Chrysler disc brake hoses. If someone has a better way I am all ears as I am not exactly happy with the way mine are currently routed either.
Had the same problem as you, the soft lines that came with the kit are made for front mounted calipers and just would not work, no matter how I tried them. I went with the 15" versions from Dr. Diff below. Problem solved.
http://www.doctordiff.com/stainless-front-brake-flex-hose-kit.html
The Dr Diff hoses have a different size thread banjo bolt. I guess the 2014 Mustang GT brakes differ from the Cobra calipers he carries. Did anyone else not have this issue?
I used a 10mm banjo bolt in my rear calipers (factory Mustang calipers). I will try to get you some pictures of my setup soon. :2thumbs:
Quote from: invincibleextremes on May 11, 2017, 04:31:28 PM
14 inch 4 piston or 15 inch 6 piston... and no I don't think random brembos will work with my adapters. But I do know they sell 8 piston 16.2 inch brakes for those mustangs.... not brembo, some wacky taiwanese company.
The adapters basically mimick 2005 to 2014 mustang spindles and rear diff and let you use whatever brakes your budget, wheels and taste allows for...
Do you have measurements of the bolted holes from the mustang brembos? I own a Challenger SRT8 that I could do some mesuring on, I assume the offset and c/c between the holes would be sufficient. There are some challenger srt8 brake setups to buy out there for good prices. Would be nice to have Brembos both front and rear but I guess that will give me problems with the parking brake huh?
Yup, zero parking brake... that's why I never designed a system to work with the mopar 300/challenger/charger platform... oh and for those Not wanting brembo brakes the regular calipers are plastic single and dual piston setups...
As is, the market is really slim already, but the work involved has been worth it. There is a percentage of Mopar owners that are willing to run larger wheels, but those same people are also the kind that want GOOD brakes, not single plastic piston garbage...
If I spent 40 to 80 hours designing a setup to works with the Mopar brembos I would sell 3 sets or so and who ever bought them would still need to run the Mustang rear brakes to get a parking brake...
I may later, but right now I just don't have the time to work for free... ;-)
Quote from: garner7555 on May 27, 2017, 07:16:34 AM
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on May 26, 2017, 07:41:12 AM
What are you guys who are running rear discs, doing with the rear axle brake lines? Are you having to cut and re-flare to put the end in a better location, or are you bending new ones from scratch? Will the factory drum lines work as is? Are you affixing some type of bracket to the axle housing near the calipers to support the hard line/flex line connection? Thanks.
I just used factory style drum brake hard lines, and bent them where I wanted them by hand. :2thumbs:
I think I see why now....some of you such as yourself are using the brembos, which are fixed and u can do that. The Mustang calipers are the sliding type and need a flex line.
On another note...Did you stay with tapered bearings? If so, how did u get the lock tab for the adjuster situated, being the main caliper bracket mounts to the retainer and flange? I guess I could machine down a spot on the backside of the bracket and put the tab where it's supposed to be or modify it to fit on top. I just rebuilt and repainted my rear and just noticed this issue. Unfortunately, I broke my leg yesterday and can't really get out there on it, but it was on my mind and I just wanted to know what you guys did. Thanks.
I think I misspoke. It appears you are running the mustang calipers as well. So Garner, you didnt run flex line to the caliper?
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on July 02, 2017, 06:08:14 PM
I think I misspoke. It appears you are running the mustang calipers as well. So Garner, you didnt run flex line to the caliper?
Yes, i used the hard lines that are intended for factory drums. I attached stainless flex line to the end of it that runs over to the caliper. :2thumbs:
Quote from: garner7555 on July 02, 2017, 08:53:43 PM
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on July 02, 2017, 06:08:14 PM
I think I misspoke. It appears you are running the mustang calipers as well. So Garner, you didnt run flex line to the caliper?
Yes, i used the hard lines that are intended for factory drums. I attached stainless flex line to the end of it that runs over to the caliper. :2thumbs:
What about the adjuster lock tab?
I just got the brackets! Nice work V! :cheers:
I probably will want the rear calipers to be on the front of the rotor and with these brackets apparently you can pick where they go. So I only have one question: how do you install the rear brackets? :lol:
I removed the driver side drum, axle, and backing plate. I have three brackets that are bolted together: a ginormous washer that I believe is in place of some drum part so axle preload stays the same? And two bigger brackets. One for the caliper itself, the other not sure where it goes.
Help! :icon_smile_big:
Quote from: Dino on July 16, 2017, 10:16:08 AM
I just got the brackets! Nice work V! :cheers:
I probably will want the rear calipers to be on the front of the rotor and with these brackets apparently you can pick where they go. So I only have one question: how do you install the rear brackets? :lol:
I removed the driver side drum, axle, and backing plate. I have three brackets that are bolted together: a ginormous washer that I believe is in place of some drum part so axle preload stays the same? And two bigger brackets. One for the caliper itself, the other not sure where it goes.
Help! :icon_smile_big:
I'll do what others on this thread cant seem to do and that is answer a simple question about a lock tab. Got it figured out though, thanks anyway.
The "washer" is indeed what u said. It takes the place of the backing plate. The bracket that looks like a "c" bolts on to the axle housing. The last bracket bolts to the "c bracket and the caliper bolts to it.
Actually the "c" bracket bolts to the retainer, "washer" bracket and then the housing. Of course, a couple of gaskets are used also. The white foam is between the retainer and "washer" bracket and the metal gasket between the "washer" bracket and the housing.
There are gaskets? :lol:
Does the C bracket bolt onto the axle housing hole up or down? If it matters.
Also, did you use longer studs? It seems that with the added thickness of the c bracket, the stock studs may be a tad too short. I'm already getting longer studs for the wheels themselves.
It should have came with 10 new bolts, but they are on the short side also. The bolt protrudes a little through the nut, but not as much as I would like. Actually, the bolts that bolt the brackets together could have stood to be a little longer too. They don't protrude through the nut at all. I may end up replacing all of the hardware. I appreciate it being included, but none of it is not the proper length.
On the bracket...pretty sure it will only go up because of the hole orientation on the housing.
Scored a set of shelby gt500 calipers and 13.8 rotors for $200. They were take offs, less than 50 miles on them, practically brand new. I have about $550 in the whole deal, front discs, rear discs and the brackets....Killer!
:2thumbs: and that is why this whole thing was worth all that work figuring out all the dimensions and spacing... so people can have killer brakes for less than 25% of what they would otherwise pay...
And pricing aside... there's also the ease of finding replacement parts due to it being an OEM setup .
Quote from: invincibleextremes on July 24, 2017, 03:33:13 PM
:2thumbs: and that is why this whole thing was worth all that work figuring out all the dimensions and spacing... so people can have killer brakes for less than 25% of what they would otherwise pay...
And pricing aside... there's also the ease of finding replacement parts due to it being an OEM setup .
Absolutely!
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on July 23, 2017, 02:07:48 PM
Scored a set of shelby gt500 calipers and 13.8 rotors for $200. They were take offs, less than 50 miles on them, practically brand new. I have about $550 in the whole deal, front discs, rear discs and the brackets....Killer!
Welllll......almost! In my blind haste to purchase these on ebay, I actually got the 11.8" rotors. I read that Shelby Gt500 came with 13.8" rotors, which they do, 2013 and later. These were off of a 2007. Whoops! I had convinced myself I saw 13.8" on the add when it clearly said 11", not even 11.8". They are brand new though, I didn't have to paint or turn anything. After installing them, I think these will be plenty. Essentially 12" on the rears. 13" on the front. If I ever to get a chance to wear out the pads, I m pretty sure an upgrade to Hawk pads with these brakes, along with the rest of the car will exceed my driving skills and ability anyway.
Are the Hawk pads really worth the extra coin? Anything wrong with plain old ceramics?
I went with the 12" rotors up front and 11.8" in the back bease I don't want to mess with spacers and grindng right now. They'll be arriving today!
Quote from: Dino on August 04, 2017, 09:53:51 AM
Are the Hawk pads really worth the extra coin? Anything wrong with plain old ceramics?
I went with the 12" rotors up front and 11.8" in the back bease I don't want to mess with spacers and grindng right now. They'll be arriving today!
I don't have any firsthand experience with them. I just hear and read a lot of good things. Again, the Hawk pads are probably out of my skill set. Oem pads that came with my calipers are more than likely good enough for me and my goals.
So far I've done my fronts only with the 13.2" OEM discs and pads and they stop tremendously strong. I can't imagine needing more stopping power on a street car on street tires. I'm very sure I would have no problem locking up my 245 wide fronts. Any more braking power would be wasted on my car for sure.
Yeah I'm going with plain ceramic pads, nothing fancy.
The 12.4" rotors look good behind my 17" wheels. Happy so far!
Instead of enlarging the center bore in the rotors, I'm going to have the hubs front and rear turned to fit the rotors. If ever I need new or bigger rotors, they will be a true bolt on. It's not like I'm going back to drums! :lol:
It would suck to enlarge the rotor bore, I bought the Centric premium rotors and they are e-coated on all non brake surfaces and I'd like to keep it that way.
Hey invincibleextremes,
I have a 70 Charger RT 440 that has American Racing Torque Thrust 18x8 fronts and 18x10 on the rear. What is the biggest 2011-2014 Mustang rotor that I can run on the front and rear with a set of your caliper adapters?
Also what mastercylinder and what prop valve are needed to make it all work properly? The mastercylinder piston has to be properly sized to work with the brakes.
I would also want the rear brakes to have E brake cables so what cables are you using and will they work with the stock E brake mechanism for my car?
Quote from: funknut on August 05, 2017, 06:45:41 PM
So far I've done my fronts only with the 13.2" OEM discs and pads and they stop tremendously strong. I can't imagine needing more stopping power on a street car on street tires. I'm very sure I would have no problem locking up my 245 wide fronts. Any more braking power would be wasted on my car for sure.
I gotta ask, what master did you go with?
Quote from: invincibleextremes on August 07, 2017, 02:36:18 AM
I gotta ask, what master did you go with?
I went with the Tallon hydraboost and the Wilwood master in 1 1/8" bore diameter.
I went to Autozone and they have part #42253 which is a 14 inch rotor for the 2014 Mustang GT brembo option. Do you sell a caliper adapter kit that will fit a Brembo caliper. Will all of this fit under a 18 inch wheel?
What other cars used the same Brembo caliper as the 2014 Mustang GT as it might make the search a little easier?
This kit works with the brembo 14 and 15 inch brakes. BUT I highly recommend looking for those calipers in junkyards or on ebay...
Garner grabbed a $3,500 14 inch setup off a 2006 mustang for $400...
And no it will not fit under 18 inch wheels aside from a few special ones.
Quote from: garner7555 on May 08, 2016, 03:33:41 PM
I currently have 20" wheels bolted on it but yes the 18" should clear these 14" without issue. :2thumbs: I think you can run a 17" if you step down to the 13.2" rotors. :shruggy:
Garner, I have 18x8 and 18x10 Torque Thrust II on a 70 Charger RT. Are you saying that they should clear the 14 inch rotors with the Brembo Mustang GT 2014 Calipers?
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on August 09, 2017, 10:43:39 AM
Garner, I have 18x8 and 18x10 Torque Thrust II on a 70 Charger RT. Are you saying that they should clear the 14 inch rotors with the Brembo Mustang GT 2014 Calipers?
Unless someone has either measured or tried that exact combination, it would be impossible to know for sure.
I have 18" wheels with 13.2" calipers and while there is more than enough diameter, the caliper interfered with the spokes and I had to add a 1/4" spacer. No big deal, but just an example of an unexpected complication.
Part of the challenge of bolting these disparate parts together is that you are charting new territory.
Quote from: funknut on August 09, 2017, 11:02:29 AM
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on August 09, 2017, 10:43:39 AM
Garner, I have 18x8 and 18x10 Torque Thrust II on a 70 Charger RT. Are you saying that they should clear the 14 inch rotors with the Brembo Mustang GT 2014 Calipers?
Unless someone has either measured or tried that exact combination, it would be impossible to know for sure.
I have 18" wheels with 13.2" calipers and while there is more than enough diameter, the caliper interfered with the spokes and I had to add a 1/4" spacer. No big deal, but just an example of an unexpected complication.
Part of the challenge of bolting these disparate parts together is that you are charting new territory.
Is there anyway you could have shaved some off of the caliper to make it fit without the spacer?
It looks like you have Torque Thrust II wheels also so I bet I will have the same issue no matter the backspacing difference of the wheels that we have. My front wheels are 18x8 with 4.5 back spacing.
It's not the back spacing that's the issue... but the way the spokes are designed. Boss 338 17 inch wheels for example clear my c5 corvette brakes on my 67 GTO and 68 firebird... but those wheels have a noticeable bow to the spokes...
Part of the appeal of the torque thrusts are the straighter spokes... which interfere with some of the bigger brake setups.
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on August 09, 2017, 12:38:23 PM
Is there anyway you could have shaved some off of the caliper to make it fit without the spacer?
It looks like you have Torque Thrust II wheels also so I bet I will have the same issue no matter the backspacing difference of the wheels that we have. My front wheels are 18x8 with 4.5 back spacing.
Good question. I did start to take some material off the caliper to get it to clear, but in the end I decided to just add a 1/4" spacer. There looks like there's enough meat on the calipers to take enough away without reducing the strength, but I knew that if I ever had to replace a caliper I'd have to go through that process again, which I'd prefer to avoid. For me, things weren't so tight up front that the spacer caused any problems.
But that's with the 13.2" discs and the non-Brembo calipers. I'm not sure what changes are possible/necessary with the 14" discs and Brembo setup.
Quote from: Blakcharger440 on August 09, 2017, 10:43:39 AM
Quote from: garner7555 on May 08, 2016, 03:33:41 PM
I currently have 20" wheels bolted on it but yes the 18" should clear these 14" without issue. :2thumbs: I think you can run a 17" if you step down to the 13.2" rotors. :shruggy:
Garner, I have 18x8 and 18x10 Torque Thrust II on a 70 Charger RT. Are you saying that they should clear the 14 inch rotors with the Brembo Mustang GT 2014 Calipers?
I have no idea honestly. I have the 14" brembos on my car, and if you want to travel to Ranburne, AL then we could bolt up a wheel and see if they clear. I could also take some measurements If you knew exactly what to measure. My 20" wheels have extra clearance, so I think you could make 18" work with the right wheel and offset.
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/pts/d/mustang-brembo-brakes/6263158434.html
I don't know if this is a great deal, but it popped up on my local craiglist feed and thought others might like to see it.
I just got my fronts done today. However I can't get the pictures to post. I went with the 15" rotors and 6 piston calipers.
Quote from: moparguy01 on August 23, 2017, 07:42:37 PM
I just got my fronts done today. However I can't get the pictures to post. I went with the 15" rotors and 6 piston calipers.
Wow! That's awesome. :2thumbs: We need to see pictures of that :yesnod: :coolgleamA:
Let's try again
Maybe this work. Not sure how to make the pictures not gigantic though.
And to get an idea of size difference....
Some people's WHEALS are smaller than that...
Very cool! Looks like a great combo. Wheels look awesome too.
Also, what hubs are those?
The hubs I got from Dr. diff. They work slick. It's not something he advertises, so I had to ask.
Quote from: Dino on August 05, 2017, 07:18:35 PM
Yeah I'm going with plain ceramic pads, nothing fancy.
The 12.4" rotors look good behind my 17" wheels. Happy so far!
Instead of enlarging the center bore in the rotors, I'm going to have the hubs front and rear turned to fit the rotors. If ever I need new or bigger rotors, they will be a true bolt on. It's not like I'm going back to drums! :lol:
It would suck to enlarge the rotor bore, I bought the Centric premium rotors and they are e-coated on all non brake surfaces and I'd like to keep it that way.
The local machine shop was unable to turn the hubs of the axles down. The front hubs were not a problem. Since I really wanted the axles adapted instead of the rotors, I decided to build a simple wooden jig to hold the axle and allow it to spin. I hooked up my table saw's motor to the axle shaft with an adjustable belt and gave it a go. Worked great and took about 2-3 minutes per axle to reduce the hub by holding an angle grinder against it.
Now the hubs will always fit Mustang rotors. :2thumbs:
Big update... the 2015-2017 4 piston calipers are practically the same as the the 2005-2014 4 piston calipers... they need about a washers worth of shim to work with the 2014 14 inch rotors...
2005-2014 14 inch rotors can be bought at orylies for $40 according to mustang guys, and the 2015 4 piston I personally found on ebay for $350 or less....
Not garners $400 deal but pretty darn close and easy to find...
And the 2014 4 piston calipers can be had from rock auto for $100 or so. That's $300 or less for 14 inch 4 piston front brakes using brand new rotors and rebuilt calipers.
Before I buy a set of Mustang parking brake cables, has anyone hooked up a set of cables to those rear calipers? And if so, what did you do to make it work? No point in trying to reinvent the wheel here.
Quote from: funknut on September 06, 2016, 10:44:57 PM
For anyone doing this conversion that has to buy caliper mounting bolts, I bought M12 x1.75 25mm grade 5 from Home Depot.
Does the 25mm bolt go ll the way through the threaded end of the caliper bracket? I measured the thickness of the caliper bracket plus that of invincible's bracket to be just over an inch. I was going with either 30 or 35mm flange bolts to have a good amount of threads stick out of the bracket.
Will the 68 factory parking brake cables work with the rear Mustang discs? I need to order a new setup but not sure if it will be compatible. Thanks.
Pretty sure they wont, but haven't installed them myself yet sorry. Parking brake cable ends in the drum differently than would on a caliper. Looking into it now, I'll post if I find anything.
I doubt the stock cables will work But since I have my calipers I can go out and check if something can be done to make them work.
Garner plans on attaching the Mustang cables onto the Charger cable where it splits and I think that's probably the best way to go.
Quote from: Dino on October 13, 2017, 10:25:54 AM
I doubt the stock cables will work But since I have my calipers I can go out and check if something can be done to make them work.
Garner plans on attaching the Mustang cables onto the Charger cable where it splits and I think that's probably the best way to go.
That's what l was leaning toward. Since I have an automatic, l was considering not even installing one. I hardly use it anyway.
I'm not running a parking brake on mine. I don't even have a parking brake pedal anymore. It had an argument with the roll cage downbar about who belonged there and lost.... :lol:
Quote from: moparguy01 on October 13, 2017, 03:48:20 PM
I'm not running a parking brake on mine. I don't even have a parking brake pedal anymore. It had an argument with the roll cage downbar about who belonged there and lost.... :lol:
The only reason I'm even contemplating using it is that I restored it and looks too nice to put it in a box....but I think that's where it's headed. I want to put some high end separates in the kick area and I don't want to cut my doors. The ebrake pedal is right in the way for that.
Quote from: Dino on October 09, 2017, 12:45:15 PM
Quote from: funknut on September 06, 2016, 10:44:57 PM
For anyone doing this conversion that has to buy caliper mounting bolts, I bought M12 x1.75 25mm grade 5 from Home Depot.
Does the 25mm bolt go ll the way through the threaded end of the caliper bracket? I measured the thickness of the caliper bracket plus that of invincible's bracket to be just over an inch. I was going with either 30 or 35mm flange bolts to have a good amount of threads stick out of the bracket.
I was doing the rear brakes when I wrote that, the fronts are indeed 25mm. I used 30mm for the rears.
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on October 13, 2017, 04:40:49 PM
Quote from: moparguy01 on October 13, 2017, 03:48:20 PM
I'm not running a parking brake on mine. I don't even have a parking brake pedal anymore. It had an argument with the roll cage downbar about who belonged there and lost.... :lol:
The only reason I'm even contemplating using it is that I restored it and looks too nice to put it in a box....but I think that's where it's headed. I want to put some high end separates in the kick area and I don't want to cut my doors. The ebrake pedal is right in the way for that.
I would love to get rid of that ebrake pedal and have room for speakers. Can you use a line lock for a parking brake? I'll have mine converted to manual trans eventually and will need some type of parking brake.
It's not impossible to adapt the stock cables by the way, but it's far from plug and play.
Am I supposed to center the calipers over the rotors by sticking washers between caliper bracket and laser cut bracket?
[/quote]
I would love to get rid of that ebrake pedal and have room for speakers. Can you use a line lock for a parking brake? I'll have mine converted to manual trans eventually and will need some type of parking brake.
It's not impossible to adapt the stock cables by the way, but it's far from plug and play.
[/quote]
It's never been an approved use of a line lock, the mfg. worries about seepage of fluid, and running down your battery.
Probably OK for short periods.
Don't know if you've got a console? How hard would it be to adapt a hand brake from another car?
I do have a console but I'm not adding more projects this to thing! :lol:
The Mustang cables are probably the way to go for now. The lack of front speakers is a problem, but it's one that can wait. I'll figure something out. But yeah I think there are a few options of installing another ebrake somewhere.
Quote from: Dino on October 13, 2017, 05:38:56 PM
Am I supposed to center the calipers over the rotors by sticking washers between caliper bracket and laser cut bracket?
Quoting myself here,
So no, not with these type of calipers.
Ran into a bit of an issue with the front right; I mounted the caliper bracket and the rotor hits it...enough to stop it. I removed the bracket and turned the rotor and the whole thing is out 1/4". I doubt it's the rotor but i will check. It's probably the hat. I must've warped it hitting it out of the drum or removing or installing studs, despite the support. Or maybe it was hit before, don't know. Minor setback but a bit of a nuisance after spending the time painting the hub...
Quote from: Ryan.C on October 22, 2016, 03:57:42 PM
Quote from: funknut on October 21, 2016, 11:28:38 PM
Trying to finish things up. Just got most of the new brake lines in. How are you all routing the lines from the calipers to the hard line? :shruggy:
The calipers seem to want to run the hoses up towards the UCA.
Anyone got pics?
I flipped my calipers left to right and right to left. I also used the banjo bolt that came with the mustang caliper to mount my original Chrysler disc brake hoses. If someone has a better way I am all ears as I am not exactly happy with the way mine are currently routed either.
I just noticed this again, but shouldn't the bleeder valve be on top and the hose on the bottom?
Yes the bleeder screw should be on top in order to bleed properly. I ran into the same issue with my set up. The fix is easy though, pull the caliper use a block of wood the simulate the rotor and bleed the caliper upside down or with the bleed screw on top.
:2thumbs:
Quote from: Ryan.C on October 14, 2017, 09:05:41 PM
Yes the bleeder screw should be on top in order to bleed properly. I ran into the same issue with my set up. The fix is easy though, pull the caliper use a block of wood the simulate the rotor and bleed the caliper upside down or with the bleed screw on top.
:2thumbs:
Smart :2thumbs:
Checked the rotor and hat today and couldn't find any obvious warping. I swapped the rotors and hats left to right and now both spin freely. Both have a bit of wobble to them but not a lot. I hope that's alright. The front right will hit the pad for a split second as it spins.
Pulled a hydroboost from a 93 Astro van at LKQ for $25, ordered a seal kit for $30, a master cylinder from Advance for $30 and two fittings for $25. So far, I'm in it for $110. I still have to get my lines/fittings from MC to distribution block, that should be less than $100. Not too bad for under $250.
Forgot about the firewall plate for $150.....So all in for around $375, still not too bad.
invincibleextremes, your inbox is full. Do you have any brackets made up and available?
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on December 11, 2017, 09:12:30 PM
invincibleextremes, your inbox is full. Do you have any brackets made up and available?
He has a newborn baby that has had heart surgery last week, (seen on facebook) so it may be a little bit before he can get back to you. Be praying for that family :2thumbs:
Quote from: garner7555 on December 11, 2017, 09:18:41 PM
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on December 11, 2017, 09:12:30 PM
invincibleextremes, your inbox is full. Do you have any brackets made up and available?
He has a newborn baby that has had heart surgery last week, (seen on facebook) so it may be a little bit before he can get back to you. Be praying for that family :2thumbs:
Hope all went well. They're in my thoughts and prayers.
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on December 12, 2017, 02:08:25 AM
Quote from: garner7555 on December 11, 2017, 09:18:41 PM
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on December 11, 2017, 09:12:30 PM
invincibleextremes, your inbox is full. Do you have any brackets made up and available?
He has a newborn baby that has had heart surgery last week, (seen on facebook) so it may be a little bit before he can get back to you. Be praying for that family :2thumbs:
Hope all went well. They're in my thoughts and prayers.
If you want to find him on Facebook, look up "Invincible Extremes muscle cars" is his group.
No wonder i didnt get a message, yeah I have several sets available.
What master cylinder/brake booster are you guys using to convert a manual-brake car to power brakes?
i also have a set of these brackets, i have not installed them yet. but hopefully soon.
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on December 14, 2017, 05:29:00 AM
What master cylinder/brake booster are you guys using to convert a manual-brake car to power brakes?
I went with the Tallon hydroboost and Wilwood dual MC. Not inexpensive, but very happy with the results.
Quote from: funknut on December 21, 2017, 08:46:06 AM
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on December 14, 2017, 05:29:00 AM
What master cylinder/brake booster are you guys using to convert a manual-brake car to power brakes?
I went with the Tallon hydroboost and Wilwood dual MC. Not inexpensive, but very happy with the results.
Same here sorta. Used Astro Van booster but will be buying a new 1-1/8" bore Wilwood tandem mc. Also considering the porp valve that bolts to the side of the mc, IF I have the room for it.
Thanks for the replies.
Has anyone found a backing plate that works with this conversion?
You mean like a dust shield? Cause the rear set up replaces the drum backing plate... And same for the fronts...
Quote from: invincibleextremes on December 26, 2017, 11:17:41 PM
You mean like a dust shield? Cause the rear set up replaces the drum backing plate... And same for the fronts...
Yes, dust shield is what I mean.
You'd have to cut the factory ford dust shield to fit around the bigger brackets. Honestly I don't think any of the guys are bothering though. But if you want I can even make you some from 20ga sheetmetal for whatever rotor sizes you'll be trying to use. Its actually really straight forward.
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on November 27, 2017, 09:49:24 AM
Forgot about the firewall plate for $150.....So all in for around $375, still not too bad.
Where did you get the firewall plate from?
Quote from: Moparmatty on January 03, 2018, 06:45:14 PM
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on November 27, 2017, 09:49:24 AM
Forgot about the firewall plate for $150.....So all in for around $375, still not too bad.
Where did you get the firewall plate from?
http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=40_32_28
Quote from: Dino on January 04, 2018, 02:47:10 PM
Quote from: Moparmatty on January 03, 2018, 06:45:14 PM
Quote from: 68ChargerJMP on November 27, 2017, 09:49:24 AM
Forgot about the firewall plate for $150.....So all in for around $375, still not too bad.
Where did you get the firewall plate from?
http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=40_32_28
Yes, that would be the place.
Btw, many of you are aware of my situation with baby Luke. I'm not asking anyone for any money, and will not. Buying the adapters I sell is something I'm really thankful for from those did.
What I am asking is to help me secure a sponsorship so I can finally put my pile of junk charger on the road and continue developing products and ideas, or at the very least actually be able to test and promote this braking system.
It costs nothing, just sign up and vote. It's all I ask.
https://lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.championautoparts.com%2FPromotions%2Fsearch-for-a-champion.html%3Fpage%3D%252Fentry%252F1223%252F&h=ATMkw9Zmq7jVEnGUQnBn3CUMjJh3Syh9C9wFN8qwD37vq3Hyda7spsgdjpQCZYMSJ7aWm8P2c13i5iRK-9I3M6MHH8-6UqULbWGw55qifS82n3YKOihFkcAA77pPjxW4mmDeCSo3&enc=AZNn6YUS1MURVWrQMss-BXrbp-Nq7G3SjDFyJ6d4nXI2zPjcYptataNOpp6QjpsnqIZlwk4lZcg4SdiCV-ymeDp-bFMQOaF1XhjeQI123vkKF8E1grnQM9OMytZ-Q1fY0MEBdKr971mmVFunnLl4e0rrCCINXFsKMZb2JqCic05xuv0ohfvg2VViobGEhATrJYw&s=1
Quote from: Dino on January 04, 2018, 02:47:10 PM
http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=40_32_28
Thanks guys.
Has any one used these brackets with the '73 and newer disc brake spindle and turned a brake rotor down to use as a hub to mount the rotor on?
Bolted the hydroboost onto the newly trimmed out engine compartment.
nice :cheers:
Got an odd request from a guy so I'm building it. He gave me the measurements for the srt8 caliper and asked me to build him a dual caliper setup. So I used two rear brackets, cut and welded together into one dual caliper bracket and he's using the mustang caliper for parking and drifting and the srt8 4 piston brembo for regular driving and braking duty.
I'm almost done with it, hopefully it works out good for him. He is using the 13.8 inch mustang rear rotor for this.
Will you be offering the dual caliper brackets for sale afterwards? Whats your price on that setup?
Don't see why not. Currently it's the price of two rear sets plus 40 bucks for me to spend a couple hours welding them together and drilling the holes needed. But once I figure it out and there's demand I can do a lot better than that obviously.
Btw, I now sell a setup for the rears that uses 95 mustang rear caliper and rotor and has same parking brake feature, but works just fine with 15 inch wheels. Just a heads up.
That's awesome man, great work.
Ill be watching this thread for when you have the dual caliper mounts up for production, thanks.
Just finished up a sent out 5 more orders.
Curious as to who else has been driving around and any what input they have on this setup. Anything anyone would like to see?
Btw, I designed a new setup that works with 14 and 15 inch wheels, for the back. Just a heads up
It's been so long that I've done anything to this car that I can't remember half of what's going on.
So I have a few questions: How long should the brake hoses be up front? I'm thinking around 15". Also, has anyone hooked up a set of parking brake cables to the rear calipers?
Anyone? :shruggy:
I'm not with my car right now but the front hoses I used were 12-15" or thereabouts. I ordered stainless Mustang OEM replacements. They are very nice units.
The hoses are definitely longer than they need to be, but they also have a bracket attached to them that you can use to connect them to a mount wherever you would like to put it that will help in keeping them away from moving parts. I haven't taken advantage of that yet because I don't think it's necessary.
I was initially concerned that they might get snagged on something, but they don't hang below the caliper.
A shorter hose would definitely work and may be better for routing, but I have no problems or concerns with the ones I used.
Quote from: funknut on July 10, 2018, 12:24:27 PM
I'm not with my car right now but the front hoses I used were 12-15" or thereabouts. I ordered stainless Mustang OEM replacements. They are very nice units.
The hoses are definitely longer than they need to be, but they also have a bracket attached to them that you can use to connect them to a mount wherever you would like to put it that will help in keeping them away from moving parts. I haven't taken advantage of that yet because I don't think it's necessary.
I was initially concerned that they might get snagged on something, but they don't hang below the caliper.
A shorter hose would definitely work and may be better for routing, but I have no problems or concerns with the ones I used.
Cool, I'll take a look at those. :2thumbs:
i bought a kit for my 66 charger at moparfest that came with 2 adapter plates 2 new calipers 2 new routers and new pads for $275 and you use the original spindles .only has single pot master but i have a couple others
Sounds like a scarebird kit or something like that. Does it fit under 15 or 14 inch wheels?
Generally speaking this setup comes out to the same price or cheaper than that.
Going to grab some 2015 and newer brakes when i get a chance and will see about making additions to the kit in order to use those brakes as well. Wouldn't hurt to have options i guess. The bolt spacing on the calipers is the same, so its only a matter of offset changes. Would be a good source of 4 and 6 piston brembos. And a 13 inch rear brake.
I'd definitely be interested in the '15+ kit. I have your original kit that can use Brembo calipers but 2015 seems to be more common with the bigger brakes.
Thanks,
David
I have 2015 brakes in my posession front and rear and its a 5/16 offset difference. For the rear that means a really cheap 13 inch brake setup.... BUT the caliper is bulkier overall and I'm pretty sure it'll touch the leaf spring at that point.
For the fronts i can currently offer a kit for 200 because of how much work and more pieces would be needed to make that work.
The current 2014 kit i offer was a very simple design and i was able to price it accordingly, but for a setup that works with the 2015 brakes i can offer a kit for 200 for the regular brakes and 220 for the brembos.
Quote from: funknut on July 10, 2018, 12:24:27 PM
I'm not with my car right now but the front hoses I used were 12-15" or thereabouts. I ordered stainless Mustang OEM replacements. They are very nice units.
The hoses are definitely longer than they need to be, but they also have a bracket attached to them that you can use to connect them to a mount wherever you would like to put it that will help in keeping them away from moving parts. I haven't taken advantage of that yet because I don't think it's necessary.
I was initially concerned that they might get snagged on something, but they don't hang below the caliper.
A shorter hose would definitely work and may be better for routing, but I have no problems or concerns with the ones I used.
Anyone have suggestions for rear hoses?
Bumping this back up.
I just got the car moved to a new location so time to roll up my sleeves. I need flexible hoses front and rear, and I need parking brake cables. If someone has finished the install and has a part list I'd like to avoid trying to reinvent the wheel.
I haven't completed the rears yet, but here's what I'm planning to use for the parking brake:
https://www.wilwood.com/hardware/hardwareprod?itemno=330-9371
For front brake lines I just ordered some 2012 Mustang GT flex lines for the front, they worked great.
I haven't dug into the rears to know what I'll need yet for flex hoses, maybe someone else does.
Good luck!
I have the 2012 Crown Vic calipers and rotors using the same design brackets and am wondering about wheel fitment. The hat height is a lot shallower than an original mopar rotor
So has anyone completed any of their installations? Was there any changes to be made once you got them up and working? Tim
I have had the fronts installed for 2.5 years and they are excellent. I am using the 13.2" discs with Tallon hydroboost and a Wilwood MC. Brake feel is great and stopping power is light years ahead of where I was. I can lock up my 255 fronts with enough right foot. No changes *needed* beyond making sure you have the right flex lines and MC, whether you go power or manual, etc.
The rears I just installed recently as part of a teardown I'm currently in the process of. I think they are 11.8" discs. The spacing on one side was perfect, caliper lined up with the disc perfectly centered. On the other, something was about 1.5mm (0.060") off, so I made a spacer plate and now things line up great. I'm not sure why the difference, but I'm chalking it up to the 50 year old suspension.
I don't currently have a good solution for e-brake, but am looking at this kit from wilwood:
https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-330-9371-Parking-Brake-Cable/dp/B002G39K0A
The only changes are wheel sizes. I run 18", so no issues for me, but don't plan on less than 17" unless you run the small discs. And even then it's a maybe. Vlad may know more about fitment.
When I built my Dana 60, I had them weld on the ends for the housing ends from a Ford Explorer, this gives me parking brake that is drum in the rotor hat, what I am not sure of is the bias between the front and rear based on piston sizes. So the 85 diplomat master is a good idea with the 1.0625 piston size. Not sure how I need to proceed. Tim
Bias between front and rear can be set with a proportioning valve. I don't have one (yet) and figure I should be ok using a matched set of Ford brakes. Wilwood and others sell them. Some route them to the cabin so you can set the bias easily for burnouts. :2thumbs:
funknut, did you end up installing that Wilwood ebrake cable kit? If so, how did it all work out?
I think you might be the resident authority on this kit now...
Hah, let's hope not, I'm far from an expert!
I haven't installed the ebrake cable kit yet, but I'm confident it will work as I've seen a number of restomod builds use it. I'm still putting the car back together and have a few other jobs to do before I'll tackle that. Hopefully sometime in the spring.
Thanks, I ordered the same one. I'm hoping to get this all installed over the next few weeks. I've had the brackets in my garage for 3 years now...
Those of you who installed the rear setup, did you use longer wheel studs?
I got Mustang brake hoses, and the Charger brake line fittings thread right into the hoses....BUT...
The brake line is flared as is the corresponding surface of the brake hose. Did you guys use an adapter fitting between the brake line and the brake hose? It seems like it's going to leak...
Thanks for the help!
Patrick
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on January 15, 2021, 09:56:09 PM
I got Mustang brake hoses, and the Charger brake line fittings thread right into the hoses....BUT...
The brake line is flared as is the corresponding surface of the brake hose. Did you guys use an adapter fitting between the brake line and the brake hose? It seems like it's going to leak...
Thanks for the help!
Patrick
Update: Advance Auto carries a 3/8-24 to M10-1.0 adapter that appears to work.
Yesterday I took my '70 for a first drive since this install.
I went with 12.4" front and 11.8" rears, with hydroboost.
A few small adjustments/changes need to be made yet, but I will tell you that this brake combination is more than enough, I can lock the tires up at half-pedal.
Look for a complete parts list from me in the near future, there were a lot of small things that took a lot of time to figure out.
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on March 07, 2021, 12:18:32 PM
Yesterday I took my '70 for a first drive since this install.
I went with 12.4" front and 11.8" rears, with hydroboost.
A few small adjustments/changes need to be made yet, but I will tell you that this brake combination is more than enough, I can lock the tires up at half-pedal.
Look for a complete parts list from me in the near future, there were a lot of small things that took a lot of time to figure out.
What size of tires are you running that will fit over the new brakes ?
Quote from: 70 sublime on March 07, 2021, 01:00:54 PM
What size of tires are you running that will fit over the new brakes ?
Front: 17x8 American Racing VNT70R with 245/45
Rear: 17x9 with 275/40
No clearance issues whatsoever.
I just did the install of the Wilwood universal parking brake kit and I'm pretty pleased with the results. The caliper mounting position creates less than ideal routing for the parking brake cables, but the kit is very nice and provides way more than enough length to do the job. It still needs a bit of adjustment to pull the brake pedal all the way up when disengaged, but it operates great.
First drive last night with the full front and rear kit installed. I'm running hydroboost with a 1.125" bore MC and the brakes are strong, maybe a little too touchy. It will take some getting used to for sure, but it sure does stop!
Quote from: funknut on May 01, 2021, 06:35:29 PM
I just did the install of the Wilwood universal parking brake kit and I'm pretty pleased with the results. The caliper mounting position creates less than ideal routing for the parking brake cables, but the kit is very nice and provides way more than enough length to do the job. It still needs a bit of adjustment to pull the brake pedal all the way up when disengaged, but it operates great.
Did you use the factory threaded connection for adjustment? If so, did you have to drill the threads out of the brass cable clamp?
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on August 14, 2021, 12:56:41 PM
Quote from: funknut on May 01, 2021, 06:35:29 PM
I just did the install of the Wilwood universal parking brake kit and I'm pretty pleased with the results. The caliper mounting position creates less than ideal routing for the parking brake cables, but the kit is very nice and provides way more than enough length to do the job. It still needs a bit of adjustment to pull the brake pedal all the way up when disengaged, but it operates great.
Did you use the factory threaded connection for adjustment? If so, did you have to drill the threads out of the brass cable clamp?
Yep, I used the factory parking brake cable, had to drill out the threads in the brass junction block and use a nut on either side to lock it in place.
Pic here for reference:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/68-charger-r-t-clone-refurb.174381/page-8#post-911886085
Quote from: funknut on August 14, 2021, 08:45:52 PM
Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on August 14, 2021, 12:56:41 PM
Quote from: funknut on May 01, 2021, 06:35:29 PM
I just did the install of the Wilwood universal parking brake kit and I'm pretty pleased with the results. The caliper mounting position creates less than ideal routing for the parking brake cables, but the kit is very nice and provides way more than enough length to do the job. It still needs a bit of adjustment to pull the brake pedal all the way up when disengaged, but it operates great.
Did you use the factory threaded connection for adjustment? If so, did you have to drill the threads out of the brass cable clamp?
Yep, I used the factory parking brake cable, had to drill out the threads in the brass junction block and use a nut on either side to lock it in place.
Pic here for reference:
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/68-charger-r-t-clone-refurb.174381/page-8#post-911886085
Thanks for the reply. I was considering doing the same, but was messing around (unsuccessfully) with other setups before I did that. I'll probably just go drill it out this weekend.
I'll upload some pictures when I get the chance, but the setup for the rear has evolved into a dual caliper system that some use for stunt work, and others use for the ability to run 4 piston brembo calipers on the rear with a 13.8 rotor while retaining the second caliper for parking brake and stunt brake duties.
If using the 11.8 as a single, nothing changes. But if using 11.8 duals, then the secondary caliper is the 2005 v6 front caliper off the 11.5 front brakes.
Is using 13.8 as a single, nothing changes, but the duals use the 4 piston front brembo off the 2012 boss 302.
There's pictures on my Instagram page if anyone is curious. And yes, the brackets have been refined a little, but they are definitely still available.
I've also developed a front brake kit that uses the 11.4 front brakes off a 1994 4x4 explorer and they actually fit 15 and even some 14 inch wheels... unlike the 11.5 mustang brakes which only clear a small portion of 15 inch wheels.
Hi
Have 4 piston 12 inch Wilvood set front and 4 piston with handbrake 12 inch kit in rear axel.
Link to my project https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10158152732019379&type=3
Holy thread resurrection Batman!
When I had to take a break from the Charger, I was in the middle of this upgrade. I have the brackets, rotors, and calipers front and rear in place. The hydrobooster is on the bench reerady for paint. I need flexible lines, a new MC, hard lines, and a prop valve. At least I think I need a valve. Even with 4 wheel discs right? I'm thinking of getting the Wilwood tandem 1-1/8" bore. Anyone using that one? They have a kit that comes with a prop valve.
I used that one and it worked great with hydroboost.
Quote from: funknut on August 29, 2022, 09:04:23 AM
I used that one and it worked great with hydroboost.
Great! Same bore size? Are you using the prop valve as well? If so, do you have it on the fender side or engine side? What did you do for brake lines from master or valve to calipers?
Yep, 1-1/8 bore size was great with hydroboost. I used the 13.2 in GT brakes plus the standard GT rears (can't remember the size), and went without a prop valve. I have the wilwood one, but was impatient to get the car together so figured I'd try without the prop valve and see how I liked it. I figured the fronts and rears were sized together for the mustang, so maybe they'd be fine without? So far, no complaints. The car stops hard and I haven't had either front or rear lock up, so can't really say which would go first. I don't drive much in wet weather, though, so I suppose it hasn't been tested thoroughly. ;)
I ran the car with hydroboost and the 1-1/8 bore MC and it was really great. When the hydroboost unit went out I switched to the 7/8 bore MC and it's pretty good for manual brakes. Ideally I'll get another hydroboost unit eventually.
Quote from: funknut on September 12, 2022, 07:27:24 AM
Yep, 1-1/8 bore size was great with hydroboost. I used the 13.2 in GT brakes plus the standard GT rears (can't remember the size), and went without a prop valve. I have the wilwood one, but was impatient to get the car together so figured I'd try without the prop valve and see how I liked it. I figured the fronts and rears were sized together for the mustang, so maybe they'd be fine without? So far, no complaints. The car stops hard and I haven't had either front or rear lock up, so can't really say which would go first. I don't drive much in wet weather, though, so I suppose it hasn't been tested thoroughly. ;)
I ran the car with hydroboost and the 1-1/8 bore MC and it was really great. When the hydroboost unit went out I switched to the 7/8 bore MC and it's pretty good for manual brakes. Ideally I'll get another hydroboost unit eventually.
That's great! Thanks!
I guess it won't hurt to run it without prop valve. I can always add one later if needed. I have the smaller, but also matching, Mustang rotors.
anyone know where i might be able to get a set of those conversion brackets? Thanks
Quote from: stucat on February 03, 2023, 01:09:30 PM
anyone know where i might be able to get a set of those conversion brackets? Thanks
Pm invincibleextremes
Fyi, the Wilwood e-brake kit is on sale for $100.
https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-330-9371-Parking-Brake-Cable/dp/B002G39K0A
I ordered the Wilwood kit from Amazon, which was sent by a third party, and it's NOT Wilwood but some knock off brand. Beware.