This should apply to all the 1966 thru 1970 B-body A/C boxes with some small variations.
So follow along as it goes from a nasty mess to a fully operational functioning piece.
I 'll update this over a few days , there are way to many details here to do this all in one sitting.
Time wise figure approx 20-30 hours depending on your skill level and depth of how far you want to go with it.
That said, this is what you see once you have it removed from the chassis.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2018.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2019.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2020.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2022small.JPG)
This is just a teaser
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2713.JPG)
Now this is the type of 'blog' I'll gladly follow! I see a sticky in its future.
Ok, heres an update
They are fairly straight forward and come apart with simple hand tools and a basic knowledge.
Essentially, the box splits in 2 halves - firewall side is the Evap unit and interior side is the heater core side. Both sides are lined internally with unsulation, but said insulation is different for there respoective sides
This is what you'll find on the evaporator side .
Not much to it, just the core, some insulation along the bottom of said core. And the insulation lining the interior sides of the box. FYI, this stuff is a royal pain to remove. SO ,, again depending on the level your after, you may or may not remove it. Me personally , I removed most of it but saw to real need to spends hours removing every last bit. Just get most of it off and reglue your new material and call it good. It'll be fine.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2235.JPG)
This is the evap core drain tray, again just clean it out call it good.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2234.JPG)
One thing worth mentioning, The drains have 2 small ferrules that been to be removed to pull the evep drain from the box half. Go slowly to remove these, they can be tough , just not impossibile to get off the drain tubes.
I'll get a better picture later today.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2620.JPG)
once removed
And you can remove the foam seals shown here, you get new ones in the DMT kit
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2238.JPG)
Once you have the outer case cleaned,and repainted.
It goes back together pretty easily.
TEST fit every single piece of of the replacement insulation before you start gluing it back in. Just in case .
I used the kit from Detroit Muscle Technologies and had zero problems but just make sure. Once it's glued down you will destroy it to remove should there be a problem.
Spray the insides of the case with weatherstriping adhesive to attach the insulation,,,,, keep in mind - a little goes a long way.
There is also a strip of insulation that gets glued to the top of the evap core. All the rest gets glued to the insides of the case.
The drain tray is attached to the evap core with two #8, 1/4" hex head screws
as both pieces go in as one unit. Make sure to replace the 2 foam seals on the tubes that seal it to the insides of the box before you put the assy down in the box half.
DO NOT put the ferrules on the drain tubes back on untill the completed box is done and ready to go back in the car.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2229.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2606.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2607.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2608.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2609.JPG)
:popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn: :2thumbs:
Last one for today.
But heres an FYI,
The blend air door has a foam seals on both sides and needs to be removed to install said foam .
To remove the blend air door, just bend these tabs back that hold it in and lift straight out.You don't have to get to carried away so don't go to far and break one off.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/100_2242.JPG)
Next up, the heter core side.
This side use a thin white styrofoam insulation. It's faily thin so handle it with care to avoid breakage.
Just spray a thin coat of adhesive to install it. Just remember, a little goes a long way so don't get to carried away with the glue. As once the cores are in place, the insulation isn't going anywhere.
The styrofoam is precut in the DMT kits. So they are pretty much fool proof, but I still suggest test fitting each pice to be sure.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2610.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2611.JPG)
Now, get your heater core ready. Be it a new one or a tested original( like this one)
New cores are avail at Classic Air if you need one. ( I had this one cleaned and flow ck, and it came back A OK )
The heater core has several foam strips to aid in sealing it inside the case. Hopefully you took several pictures when you removed it.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2602.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2603.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2604.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2605.JPG)
Make sure you replace the O-rings on the 2 tubes. I used the green nitrile A/C o-rings
And the DMT kit comes with 2 short pieces of 5/8" heater hose and 4 clamps to replace the originals, use them.
Now that the both the core and the case is ready, Just sit it in the box.
It gets secured to the case with 2 #10 hex head screws ( circled in green )
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2612.JPG)
Now, turn your attention to the actuators. Keep your fingers crossed all 3 of them are good, they are kind of tough to find NOS.
I tested all 3 and found they were all good, so I just lightly went over them with steel wool and cleared them with Eastwood diamond clear. ( good stuff btw )
The one loan removable actuator bracket was originally galvanized, so it was stripped and repainted in a paint called, bronze hammertone. I like it.
The linkages are farily complicated, so I don't suggest taking them apart unless absolutely needed. I just let them sit in solvent overnight and brushed them down with a stiff toothbrush. Then sprayed them down with WD40 and called it good.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2704.JPG)
Be sure to clean up the heater core extension tubes, These are what protrude thru the firewall and are visibile in the engine compartment side.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2600.JPG)
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2601.JPG)
Sorry, I've gotten ahead of myself just a bit.
To assemble the 2 case halves. If you look along the upper edge of the ft case you will notice a rolled edge, there is also a correspending lip on the rear case half that slides into this rolled edge. Once you have the lip under the rolled edge, lower the heater side of the case half down so the 2 cases meet and are attached with 4 yellow zinc plated captives washer nuts. These are an 8-32 machine thread that thread on to studs on the ft case half. There are 2 on each end of the case. ( B - in this picture )
If you look along the bottom of the case there are a series of #10 head head screws to attch the lower lip the 2 case halves. ( A - in this picture)
Ok, now that you have the 2 cases assembled. Re-install your tested and cleaned actuators and linkages.
They look more more complicated than they are, really.
The one actuator is held to the linkages with a 3/16" spring washer clip, it can be installed after all the linkages are on( I did it this way and took some creative thinking to push it on over the stud)So, I suggest installing it before putting the linkages on the box.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2701.JPG)
My vacuum harness was still nice and flexable, so I cleaned and reused them. Now is a good time to install the heater core to firewall tube with 4 new #8 head head screws . Hopefully once you have them all on, it looks like this.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2706.JPG)
nice work Bill :yesnod: :coolgleamA:
Hey Bill,
Is the spring on the blend door lever the same spring that attaches to the linkage between the bottom "S" link and the case ?
Also, do you have a close up and rough tension of the linkage spring that looks similar to a distributor weight spring? My plater managed to lose mine upon getting my hardware re plated :'(
Thanks, RJ
Nice job :2thumbs:......as usual!
Quote from: 440 on December 11, 2011, 07:30:26 AM
Also, do you have a close up and rough tension of the linkage spring that looks similar to a distributor weight spring? My plater managed to lose mine upon getting my hardware re plated
This one ? I'll have to ck my spare A/C box and get you the length
Quote from: 440 on December 11, 2011, 07:30:26 AM
Hey Bill,
Is the spring on the blend door lever the same spring that attaches to the linkage between the bottom "S" link and the case ?
This one ?
This is a 1969 Charger box, and it did not have this sping anywhere else.
I have a few spare A/C boxes and ' I THINK ' the only one with this spring anywhere else is a C-body body box. I will ck this afternoon to confirm .
Yeah Bill,
The top one is the one my plater lost....
But this is the other "missing" spring, I used your photo for reference due to the white insulation inside the box highlighting it. Are these two springs supposed to be the same, from what I can tell they look the same.
Last pic is the SMS box showing a spring...
I also agree this should be stickied like the grill database, lots of useful information here which will no doubt help many others.
Thanks Bill, What great timing. I just got my A/C box back from SMS and am actaully trying to install it today. They did a great job and it looks great but I am having trouble getting it mounted flush to the firewall to secure. Seems like it might be a two person operation. Is it me or are they a little tricky to get back in? Cant wait to see what comes next. :cheers:
The 1969 B-body box this is about did not have that spring. And the 67 B-body box I have on the shelf doesn't have it.
1967 has one of these, 1969 Doesn't
1969 Has one of these, 1967 does not
I think I need one.
I have a 68 and a 69 A/C plenum in my shed... restoration projects for one of these days...
Nice job, have to get started on mine. gonna be a lot of hours of tinkering
Excellent post Bill, and great picts! :2thumbs: I wish I would have had this to follow last summer when I did mine...
QuoteThe blend air door has a foam seals on both sides and needs to be removed to install said foam .
To remove the blend air door, just bend these tabs back that hold it in and lift straight out.You don't have to get to carried away so don't go to far and break one off.
I will add this though, I was able to do both of these seals with out removing the door. I used a portable sand blaster to clean it up inside and out, then painted it and glued in the seals and insulation. So if someone is worried about breaking the tabs, it can be done without taking the door off...
Rich :Twocents:
I wonder about that thermal time delay control. How would you know if it was good? And if it isn't where would you get one?
I believe if its working your a/c compressor will cycle on and off with the defrost on.
They are not hard to find NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-NOS-Relay-1968-1969-1970-1971-Dodge-Challenger-/7931866722?hash=item1d8c6ae62&item=7931866722&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
AWESOME write-up, Bill! :2thumbs: :cheers: :cheers:
Quote from: y3chargerrt on December 12, 2011, 08:18:57 PM
I believe if its working your a/c compressor will cycle on and off with the defrost on.
They are not hard to find NOS
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-NOS-Relay-1968-1969-1970-1971-Dodge-Challenger-/7931866722?hash=item1d8c6ae62&item=7931866722&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr
Correct,
If I remember correctly, the main purpose was to cycle the compressor during defrost mode to -
1 - add moisture to the air hitting your face and
2- cycle the compressor during winter months
Not to hard to find, I have 2 or 3 NOS ones here
Make sure you put the 5 steel spacers over the mounting studs , followed by the white foam seals.
I used mag wheel cleaner of the Evap core tubes with a brass brush follwed by simple green and steel wool.
All the seals needed are in the DMT kit.
Make sure you attach the link from the center vent door to the internal control valve. Before you install the plastic duct
Clean up the center duct and with the new foam seal installed , attach it on the box with 3 new #10 5/16" hex head screws.
FYI, I have seen some boxes where this duct is attached with a #10 phillips head screw.
The box is now back in the car btw.
I would add if you have someone to help, take advantige if that. The boxes are kind of heavy and awkward to handle by yourself.
If your going to cover the firewall with a Dynomat type material , now is the time do it.
Also the insulation along the top of the cowl above the box is also being replaced.
I'm on the lockout for a better condition pass side flex vent( hint hint ) this has a 1" hole in it.
So, untill then.
I turned my attention to the dash controls themselves.
Again, not hard to do but it'll make for a really nice appearence once it's all back in the car.
Take a couple before pictures to revert back to for a re-assembly aid.
To remove the knobs from the vacuum switch is real easy, Using a small flat bladed screw driver inserted between the 2 and simply push the black knob off the switch .
What your looking for in a finished product is what determines just how far you go . Me, I took it all the way down to just an empty chrome bezel( as you cen tell from the before pics - it was a dusty dirty mess)
The fan switch felt like it could be made to operate a bit smoother.
So ,,,, I opened it up to investigate. piece of cake .
Soaked the housing in some evaporust for maybe 2 hours.
Cleaned up the internal slide portion, lube it with some di-electric grease and simply re-assembled. Works SO much smoother now
I just lightly glass beaded the actual housing, taped it up and resprayed the black section with satin black engine enamel.
While the paint dries, turn your attention to the knobs themselves.
Finding NOS or mint used ones where the lettering is intact is hopeless, so don't bother.
I used the knob decals from Premium Dash decals.
And I'll mention here. If you get close enough your not going to fool anyone that these are not decals, but from the drivers seat, they'll be just fine.
These pictures really accentuates them but trust me , at arms length you can't tell.
I would suggest once the decals are on the knobs, take a fine tip sharpie and go over the edges of the decal. Apparently the decals are printed on white paper and the edges show against the black knob ( I did that after this picture was taken btw )
Clean up your wiring, vacumm hoses, make sure the temp control cable operates nice and smooth.
Then just re-assemble everything and ck your work.
PS- the 2 circlular push clips that hold the lever and temp cable in place is a 3/16"
ps, I should mention.
If you remove the plastic lens from the chrome hsg.
It's pretty easy to re-install .
Just lay the lens over the 3 studs that protrude up ever so slightly and push it back over them, I used 2 small flat bladed screwdrivers and just worked it back over the studs.
If your not comfortable doing that. You could probably use a thin double sided tape to re-attach it
:popcrn:
Can you buff the buttons with a plastic polish and soft cotton wheel to restore them back to a rich black... They all seem to go a chalky white, I know you have to remove enough material to get back to "good" plastic but are the efforts worth it ?
The flash makes it show more than it really is.
This is the 1st time I've used the knob decals and didn't think about any issues like this before hand. So I wasn't prepaired for it.
I think once in the car they will be fine.
Quote from: 440 on December 15, 2011, 05:53:21 AM
Can you buff the buttons with a plastic polish and soft cotton wheel to restore them back to a rich black... They all seem to go a chalky white, I know you have to remove enough material to get back to "good" plastic but are the efforts worth it ?
My a/c control knobs go from black to white, one is slightly green! In short, yes you can restore them.
I just did one, I used a 400 grit wet sandpaper to make the knob lok like new again, meaning those scratches and streaks were gone. Then you have to go progressively lighter to bring them back to a high luster black. A drop of plastic polish will leave them looking as new. BUT since the indented lettering is already fading in many spots, this process will make it worse. If you still have a good outline from the letters then before you sand and polish ypu need to re engrave these so they are deep enough to hold paint. I tried one and it worked ok, not perfect though so I need to find another tool. There's no harm in trying. If it fails you go the decal route. The decals from performance car graphics have extra tabs on them so you can bend them around the knobs, they may or may not work better.
Hmmmmm, I know someone with a vinyl cutter who has made some small decals for me in the past, so I may try to get them to cut out some small text. Stick on the knob and if they move around due to their small size maybe a satin clear to "set" them and also increase their durability.
Quote from: 440 on December 15, 2011, 06:47:27 PM
Hmmmmm, I know someone with a vinyl cutter who has made some small decals for me in the past, so I may try to get them to cut out some small text. Stick on the knob and if they move around due to their small size maybe a satin clear to "set" them and also increase their durability.
I'm sure that's a viable option. One note on that, and this may never happen if it's a weekend cruiser, but if you spray something with a satin or even a flat clear then you can never do any type of polishing as it will increase the gloss. Pushing these buttons repeatedly will effectively polish them. Check the knobs, is the temp button the shiniest? Now if you don't use any type of clear then the edges of the small decals will catch all the griome and they will become visible fast.
I think the decals from performance car graphics should work pretty well because they sit flush with the side edges of the knobs and then tuck underneath the bottom. It's the route I'm going unless I find a way to restore hte knobs without decal. And yes I will share it with all of you if I do find a way. :cheers:
Quote from: Dino on December 15, 2011, 01:33:56 PM
The decals from performance car graphics have extra tabs on them so you can bend them around the knobs, they may or may not work better.
Those are the ones I used on mine...cant tell there is a decal on there
I restored my A/C controls and they look brand new. I didn't use decals but transfer script instead. After I applied the letters I clear-coated the buttons so that the letters wouldn't rub off when being pushed. Yes, it does take patience but the result is so rewarding! Don't have a picture atm but the controls look like new from the factory!
btw. why is the underside of the panel chrome? it totally stands out - I painted mine black (excepte the surface where the buttons slide on) - looks better imo.
The underside of the panel is Chrome----either a rough surface that is chromed or a smooth surface that is chromed---depending on the supplier. These panels are diecast and have a tendancy to pit. This particular one has not been repopped. Having them rechromed is expensive. I like the idea presented to paint this a semigloss or flat black. It would look better than the chrome. Of course, it wouldn't be "original". I wonder if the paint would rub off as the controls are moved back and forth? Maybe this was why they didn't paint them originally? Does anyone have any experience having these rechromed? Cost? Who did it? If you painted this part, did the paint hold up to control knob movement?
I prefer the painted underside of my panel. The paint doesn't rub off as I only painted the rough parts - the levers slide on a thin smooth line which I left chrome.
Here is how it looks like (altered gtx6970s picture with photoshop):
Hmmmm! That looks a lot better than a pitted piece. I may end up painting mine. Probably would paint the same color and texture as the dash and steering column.
Here are two pictures of my control unit. It shows how I did the chrome parts and how the transfer script looks like on the buttons - came out pretty good.
Just want to post in this thread so i can find it in the near future. I will be going thru all of this with my car. :popcrn:
Paul
EDIT: Ok i'm the moron, i see its a sticky already in this section. :slap:
Edit again: Bill, if you have free time, can you post pictures of the routing of all the duct work and also pictures of the routing of everything on the engine side? Thanks.
I removed the cardboard shroud, which was torn and flaky at best, and broke 2 of the 3 small clips that hold the wiring to the frame. Can you buy these? Also is it worth spending 3 bucks on a new shroud or should I just make one myself?
Made the cardboard shroud myself. Very easy to do - you just need a sharp knife.
Quote from: PocketThunder on January 09, 2012, 05:32:13 PM
Edit again: Bill, if you have free time, can you post pictures of the routing of all the duct work and also pictures of the routing of everything on the engine side? Thanks.
When I get back to it in the next week or so I'll see what I can do( waiting on parts to show up )
I just want to say that this is a fantastic thread. The attention to detail and workmanship is a sight to behold. If only all things in this country were done with such care.
I won't be starting my '71 for several months as I'm moving and will be putting up a steel shop building to do the work in, but I'm currently collecting parts and threads like these really get me looking forward to the project. :2thumbs:
Got asked via PM how I did the transfer script - here ya go:
1.) sprayed the buttons satin black - you can still tell where the original script was which helps lining up the new letters
2.) put the transfer script paper over the decals and used a pencil to rub the letters off the paper onto the buttons. when you're done with one letter just move to the next till you're done.
3.) put on several light coats of satin clear so that the script won't come off when touching the buttons.
That's it - very easy to do and gives a way nicer result than the decals. you just have to find the right script.
Quote from: ChargerST on February 27, 2012, 04:55:44 PM
you just have to find the right script.
What transfer script did you use and where did you pick it up?
Got them locally at an electronics shop. You should be able to get them at any paper supplies store, try Staples. The transfer script is made by Avery but there are other ones as well. Don't remember the font size but I think it was 1/8"
You should be able to get them here: http://www.ehobbies.com/trains-paint-and-accessories-woodland-scenics-dry-transfer-decals.html
Quote from: ChargerST on February 27, 2012, 04:55:44 PM
Got asked via PM how I did the transfer script - here ya go:
1.) sprayed the buttons satin black - you can still tell where the original script was which helps lining up the new letters
2.) put the transfer script paper over the decals and used a pencil to rub the letters off the paper onto the buttons. when you're done with one letter just move to the next till you're done.
3.) put on several light coats of satin clear so that the script won't come off when touching the buttons.
That's it - very easy to do and gives a way nicer result than the decals. you just have to find the right script.
You know I may have to try that. I have the pcg button kit so I'll try those first, but if I'm not happy with them I'm going your route.
I'm doing my buttons at the moment and think I'll attempt the transfer route. Unfortunately I'll have to order them online as they are not available here. Was one sheet enough?
One sheet was enough.
Woodland Scenic products should be able to be found in any reputable hobby shop or train store.
From what I can tell the closest transfers from Woodland Scenics are part #DT507 Gothic White Transfers 1/16" - 3/16". 1/8" is the correct size.
While your at the hobby shop pick up a can of Tamiya TS-79 semi gloss clear lacquer spray to seal the transfers.
Do you have a picture of your finished control unit?
Who's, mine ?
Yeah, wanna see how yours turned out :cheers:
I'm trying to figure out a way to test the multi-control unit before assembling it but I think it's going to be an install and see if it works :lol:
Some of the buttons I had were in great shape and they were shiny, so I may coat them in gloss like original. I polished the dead chalky "white" plastic off of the poor looking buttons and they look pretty good. I wonder way some neighboring ones go white and others not?
I'm still a bit undecided if I want to paint them black first like you did. I like the uniformity of doing it that way but at the same time I want to alter them as little as possible. Mine currently vary slightly in shade which is hard to tell without a close inspection.
If I had a spare set of buttons I'd try a few things for the best results.
Hello do anyone have any luck locating a Blower motor resistor for a charger w/Air??? I'm stuck and cant find one.
KILLER! I am doing a 1968 Charger, Quick story, my dad passed away 4 years ago, he had a summer house on Pender Island here in B.C., he went to check the property line and fell off the cliff to his death. He inspired me to build cars and even built me a shop. He was never into cars himself, he was highly educated and a lawyer but he saw my interest and helped me start. I will never forget when he showed me the movie Bullit, I always wanted a Black 68 after that! I finally went back to the island last year and ran into the guy that found him (search and rescue) we talked I went to his house and he had a black 1968 Charger factory a/c major project, what are the odds! Initially he did not want to sell it but he just felt like I needed the car, I bought it several months later...
I am so grateful that you took the time to put this together! Thanks!
welcome jthotrod. good luck with the project. when you get time, post a pic up on the show us your charger thread. :2thumbs:
I will thanks. Just on holiday till sept 23. I couldn't forget about the Charger Lol! I want to restore my box, it is actually already apart, I need new heater cores for sure, I need to find a good place to buy them. I was wondering if I should use my evap core, it looks ok, can I test it? and the heater control valve should I replace it? I really want to do this once.
Quote from: JThotrodjunkie on September 08, 2012, 04:42:17 AM
I will thanks. Just on holiday till sept 23. I couldn't forget about the Charger Lol! I want to restore my box, it is actually already apart, I need new heater cores for sure, I need to find a good place to buy them. I was wondering if I should use my evap core, it looks ok, can I test it? and the heater control valve should I replace it? I really want to do this once.
The heater valves are pricey. You would have to send yours in to have it restored as nobody makes these anymore BUT for $10 you can buy a new seal at napa and fix it yourself. I'm still struggling a bit with mine. It no longer leaks but I can't shut it off, heat is coming in all the time so I had to disconnect it. Here's my resto thread.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,85791.0.html
You can take the cores to a shop to have them tested or you can seal the tubes and dunk them in a bath of water, if you don't see bubbles you should be okay. I still would take it to a shop to have tested though. You can buy the cores brand new as well. Around $60 for the heater, $260 for the a/c.
Quote from: gtx6970 on December 10, 2011, 10:42:57 AM
Ok, now that you have the 2 cases assembled. Re-install your tested and cleaned actuators and linkages.
They look more more complicated than they are, really.
The one actuator is held to the linkages with a 3/16" spring washer clip, it can be installed after all the linkages are on( I did it this way and took some creative thinking to push it on over the stud)So, I suggest installing it before putting the linkages on the box.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2701.JPG)
My vacuum harness was still nice and flexable, so I cleaned and reused them. Now is a good time to install the heater core to firewall tube with 4 new #8 head head screws . Hopefully once you have them all on, it looks like this.
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2706.JPG)great work, been past this point, and its installed in car but i have found it hard to follow the factory diagrams regarding vacum, can you help with a simple diagram regarding restrictors in vacum tubes and which one is tee'd off to the switch that with defrost cycles air con, started with a rolling shell and all this was missing, will very much app the help , left this alone for a while now and moved on to other things because of frustration, thanks in advance
geez, just realised that you gave me an answer to my restrictors and where the tee goes, thanks will finish this part off now
thankyou GTX6970,JUST did mine today,your thread gave me the courage to GET IT DONE .
charlie
complete reseal kit for 68,69 heater valve
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DMT-68-69-B-Body-AC-A-C-RANCO-Heater-Water-Control-Valve-Repair-Kit-Seal-/360657138408?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item53f8d732e8
(http://home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/102_2620.JPG)
Bill,
Those ferrules look pretty new, where can I get a set? Mine were pretty hard to get off and I destroyed one in the process.
I'm working on the heater box for a 1966 Charger with A/C and this has been very helpful. I broke the solder connection on one of the tubes with the ferrule. One came off relatively easily but the other needed more coaxing and I broke it. Thanks for the instructions.
Bill
I know it's been 2 yrs since this thread has been active, but a lot of pics are missing. I just pulled the hvac box out of my 69 Charger factory AC. Got it apart. Now to find all the parts to rebuild it.
Quote from: scatpack69 on May 30, 2016, 12:37:53 PM
I know it's been 2 yrs since this thread has been active, but a lot of pics are missing. I just pulled the hvac box out of my 69 Charger factory AC. Got it apart. Now to find all the parts to rebuild it.
Yep, me too. What happened to the pics? I sent the OP a message
Luke
No idea, where they went. Unless they fell off the board due to age .
I don't think I had them hosted somewhere else such as a picture hosting site
Quote from: gtx6970 on November 22, 2016, 09:17:24 AM
No idea, where they went. Unless they fell off the board due to age .
I don't think I had them hosted somewhere else such as a picture hosting site
I don't suppose you have the pics and could try to repost
Luke
The pictures were on:
home.fuse.net/billstoys/B-Body_AC-box/
Troy
Since a few people are looking over this thread lately....
I have lost my linkage from the AC door to heater bypass valve. If anyone has their system apart, or partially apart, can someone please tell me the length of the link and possibly take a photo of the link installed or uninstalled? I think fabricating one from some wire/rod will work, but I am not certain of the length.
Thanks,
Scott
What is the correct way to adjust or set vacuum door linkage after installation. john
Hopefully, someone following this thread will be able to assist. Many moons ago, I took my 69 Charger apart to begin a restoration.
17 years later it is nearing completion, and I have a question on re-assembling the A/C ducting under the dash.
I have numerous parts, but have a sneaking suspicion that at least one of the is wrong, and that I'm missing a part of the ducting.
In the attached photos I have laid out what I have and am looking for confirmation of:
#1 - Connection between Right dash vent (near glove box to the center register #2
#2 - Center register that is attached with 3 screws to the heater box
#3 - Hard plastic duct with oval section that passes through the dash frame support
#4 - Hard plastic and flexible hose that looks to be too long, and does not have an oval end
Is it #4 that is incorrect?
Mike
Yep, #4 does not belong there. Everything else is correct.
Here is a better shot of # 3 & #4.
Is it just a flexible hose (rectangular on one end and oval on the other) that connects #3 plastic duct to the dash vent on the driver's side?
Mike
Correct. Sorry i didn't get back to your PM earlier Mike. Yes, the drivers outboard vent has flex that attaches to the duct under the dash, different shapes at each end.
Following. I'm looking to do mine with a very tight budget. Any pointers that would be important for me to follow? I've seen those repop cores that are supposed to use the new stuff but they are really expensive. I havent torn into mine yet so im not sure whats in store but the heater worked before I pulled it apart and judging by the condition of the rest of the car I'm assuming no mammals nested in it and its in decent shape...
I replace the heater core & the h valve inside the box. I reused my ac evap core, works great.
So your core was in bad shape? I am not sure if I know enough to recognize the difference yet.
Might be a stupid question, but is this the h-valve?
When I 1st did it I used my old heater core, after about a month it started leaking so I had to take it all apart again to replace, that was not fun because now the dash assy was in the car, DO IT NOW :Twocents:
I was afraid you'd say that haha. That's the chapter of the two at least.
Sorry to resurrect the old thread, but i need help.
The first few pics here are gone, and im trying to fix my evap hose issue. I just replaced my compressor to make ac work, and it works, but the water condensate drips in the foot well (from the big black box). So i assume its an issue with the drain, but i cant find where the drain is supposed to be... can i get to it without taking things apart? The system itself looks like a fresh restoration.
The evaporator/condenser whatever you want to call it screws onto a drain pan which has two tubes that poke through the box and through the firewall.
(http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=91268.0;attach=172340;image)
You can see the tubes poking out the bottom of the box, they also should just be poking out from the firewall in the engine bay.
(http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=91268.0;attach=172383;image)
Ok, i think i saw those two, except they are not that color, they look bronze and i see them in engine bay... so why am i leaking inside? Both footwells (more so on passenger side).
Is there a way to remove the pan without taking everything apart? I cant really see the pan, i only see the black box under there (where the foot wents are and where the moisture forms..).
Is it coolant or condensation?
If condensation it could only be if the drain tubes are blocked or condensation is forming elsewhere in the box. I'd give them a poke with something incase bugs have turned them into a home.
The temperature valve, mounts w three unusual screws on the firewall from the engine compartment; or the internal valve or connectors could be leaking coolant. Anti-freeze smell would be the giveaway.
Def water. The whole system seems brand new, but was done before i got the car.
I can see condensation forming on the box.
I will try to poke the tubes.
Hii!
So its summer again, and it means that i have recharged my ac system and... its leaking again.
Was leaking water primarily on the passenger side, would leak water on the drivers side after extended use (an hour).
So i took cloth hanger, and compressed air and went at it. The passenger side started working, yay! The water is dripping out of the tube... the drivers side, however, came back with a vengeance!! After a few minutes of ac system operating, it starts to pour inside the car out of the vents (at the bottom).
1. Does the tube bend in any way? I can only push the cloth hanger straight. It doesnt bend to go anywhere.
2. Any ideas what to do next? Is there an easy way to remove the train to investigate? The tube that goes outside sits tight, i cant move it. The whole system looks brand new (car has 2k miles after restoration).
3. Can i just spray some silicone inside the tube, to block off that end, so that all the water goes out the passenger side tube? (Why is there two tubes anyway...).
4. Does anyone have pictures additional pictures of the tray and under the ac system? Everything is closed off on mine, and without taking things apart, i cant see anything. The two pics above are great, but i cant see inside the tray or how it connects to the rest of the system.
There are pictures of the pan above your post
Quote from: cdr on June 23, 2019, 11:41:19 PM
There are pictures of the pan above your post
The pic is angled. I cant see inside the pan/where the tubes fo.
Im trying to see where is disconnect between the pan and the tube.
Quote from: euroZ06 on June 24, 2019, 01:32:23 AM
Quote from: cdr on June 23, 2019, 11:41:19 PM
There are pictures of the pan above your post
The pic is angled. I cant see inside the pan/where the tubes fo.
Im trying to see where is disconnect between the pan and the tube.
The only way to fix it is pull the box out & take it apart, it will come out with the dash in place.
Quote from: cdr on June 24, 2019, 01:26:53 PM
Quote from: euroZ06 on June 24, 2019, 01:32:23 AM
Quote from: cdr on June 23, 2019, 11:41:19 PM
There are pictures of the pan above your post
The pic is angled. I cant see inside the pan/where the tubes fo.
Im trying to see where is disconnect between the pan and the tube.
The only way to fix it is pull the box out & take it apart, it will come out with the dash in place.
Any way to just pull out the tray, without pulling out the whole system?
What could be broken there?? If i were to guess, the tube is somehow not attached, but i cant find pictures of where it attaches and how.
And also, can i just spray silicone into the driver side tube to block off that end? The passenger side drains just fine...
Quote from: euroZ06 on June 25, 2019, 04:47:48 PM
And also, can i just spray silicone into the driver side tube to block off that end? The passenger side drains just fine...
no do not do that. it is probably plugged up with deteriorating insulation & rat shit
Quote from: cdr on June 26, 2019, 09:50:31 AM
Quote from: euroZ06 on June 25, 2019, 04:47:48 PM
And also, can i just spray silicone into the driver side tube to block off that end? The passenger side drains just fine...
no do not do that. it is probably plugged up with deteriorating insulation & rat shit
I sprayed compressed air into it (from a ballon). Nothing :( should i try again? Can i just unscrew the tray without taking the whole thing apart?
Quote from: euroZ06 on June 26, 2019, 11:36:36 PM
Quote from: cdr on June 26, 2019, 09:50:31 AM
Quote from: euroZ06 on June 25, 2019, 04:47:48 PM
And also, can i just spray silicone into the driver side tube to block off that end? The passenger side drains just fine...
no do not do that. it is probably plugged up with deteriorating insulation & rat shit
I sprayed compressed air into it (from a ballon). Nothing :( should i try again? Can i just unscrew the tray without taking the whole thing apart?
The only way to get to the tray is to remove the box
Does the tube inside the tray go straight back? Or does it kink up? How is the tube attached to the tray?
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,91268.0.html
Awesome article and follow along. Question. Is there a secret to the area where the heater tubes slide into the heater core and the o-rings. This looks like a potential future leak right here. What can I do or is there a special o-ring or lube to make this last 100000 miles like the last one did?
I'm currently restoring the HVAC box on my 69 383 car. Does anyone sell the condensation drain trays for these original style systems?? I can't find one online. Mine has a big rust hole in it.
I know one thing, I'll never restore another factory style A/C system. So much of this shit is discontinued. I hate aftermarket parts but if I do another charger it'll be vintage or classic air. :RantExplode: