OK...you have "Acrylic's" in Enamel, Urethane and Lacquer. What I've decided to do is get my car back to B-5 Blue or close (Bright Blue Poly.) as reasonable as I can for now. I'm looking for nothing fancy and much later will be doing rear 1/4's, trunk gutters and so on. I'll be removing the blue paint on there now (It's coming off with a scraper.) and sanding down the primer underneath. The roof and trunk will be down to steel as they were the worst. I'm mostly wanting to shoot a topcoat for UV protection and figuring this paint job as "sacrificial". I've found acrylic enamel and urethane online for anywhere from 45.00 to 175.00 per GL. depending on mix. (The higher was for true B-5 mix.)
What would anyone recommend for "a low $$ kinda do for now so I can get to some other things" approach? (Most of my budget for paint just got pumped up to Gainsville keeping my son in collage and I have another starting hopefully this year, OL' Blue has to wait for the good stuff!) :shruggy:
Any opinions/advise are welcome! (I'm lost and clueless! :lol: )
Do it right, and do it once. :Twocents:
I would put it in epoxy primer until you are ready for a decent paint job
Whether using acrylic enamel or urethane (both single stages), it is easy to 'tiger stripe' the metallic if you are not careful, I know this sounds crazy, but on the final coat, you got to 'fog' the paint on the even out the metallics. Out of those two choices, urethane will be a lot more durable, but will be more expensive. I like to use single stage urethane for solid colors, and BC/CC (BC/CC is urethane too) for metallic colors. If you are dead set on doing a cheap paint job just to get by, I would recommend using Kirker paint (that is what Summit and Eastwood sell, they just change the labels), for a cheap paint it is decent, its available in Acrylic enamel, urethane and BC/CC. The only draw back is they do not mix, they are all 'pre-packaged' colors, but they have several blues to choose from. http://www.smartshoppersinc.com/colorchart.html (single stage urethane color chart).
But as others have said, if you just want to drive/enjoy the car, I personally would just put a good epoxy primer on it.
Here is a great site to learn things pertaining to body/paint and all the supplies... http://autobodystore.com/forum/index.php
Just some facts to think on,
Jason
Thanks guys! Jaak will epoxy primer stick well to other primers? Kirker has a bright blue met. that is close to B-5 and acceptable. (Thanks for the link.)
Quote from: b5blue on February 03, 2012, 05:56:22 AM
Thanks guys! Jaak will epoxy primer stick well to other primers? Kirker has a bright blue met. that is close to B-5 and acceptable. (Thanks for the link.)
Epoxy primer is used to seal polyester primer/filler repairs prior to paint, so yes.
Primer IS NOT Paint and contrary to popular belief, it will NOT protect your ride unless you are spraying it for the "look" of having had bodywork done...Primer breathes. Therefore, the metal will rust through if driven in the weather.
I have used every paint under the sun. started paintingin 1973. My choice for single stage metallic. is Concept by ppg. Now since you are going with a METALLIC single stage . when painting just get the paint on don't worry about tiger stripes on your first three coats. just get good coverage. then on your fourth coat get it even without tiger stripes, and continue just walking around the car fogging make full side passes ,do not panel paint you want to get the biggest fan and use slow reducer.
Now heres another thing to do if u want the best single stage metallic paint job ever . is to paint the car with three coats, then let it harden for a week and gas off set up. then block out the car with 3m 1000 grit wet paper. use a 8 inch block and get a ABSORBER BRAND shammy to use in wet sanding process . all other shammys suck!. after you wet sand block the entire car.with 1000. remask and repaint right after you are done with the remask. now you are spraying onto a hard shell. you won't believe the difference. it will shine like a fully polished car. Thing is you can't block and buff out mettalic single stages. yeah its a lot of work but the results are worth it. plus the first paint job gives you experience. Good luck
Quote from: Cooter on February 03, 2012, 07:57:59 AM
Primer IS NOT Paint and contrary to popular belief, it will NOT protect your ride unless you are spraying it for the "look" of having had bodywork done...Primer breathes. Therefore, the metal will rust through if driven in the weather.
Epoxy primer stands up to elements very well. Personally I would recommend SPI epoxy http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
Again thank you guys. I did realize the normal factors that would apply to a shop don't apply to me. Slow cure times and re-shoots for me are an advantage. I checked and Kirker has been manufacturing paints for 100 years right here in the U.S. so that can't be bad. Superbirdtom's advise sounds good, I hate patching instead of replacing but that's just out of reach for now. I'll be checking into SPI also, thanks for the link Silver RT! Cooter you get my situation, the sun and wetness of Florida is relentless and brutal. I may try white while learning to shoot then overcoat to blue? :scratchchin:
Hey, Neal. :cheers:
Like it was mentioned, your BEST bet is to wait to do it right. However...
If you have your heart set on getting your car painted sooner than later, given the climate in which you live I would go with a urethane based single stage over an acrylic enamel based single stage any day of the week. It is a more durable paint. If your prep work holds up, you could always wet sand the snot out of it down the road in prep for a base/clear job to be put over it. A regular acrylic enamel job will not hold up as good to the elements. The PPG Concept line is a very good single stage. Expensive yes, but with paint you get what you pay for. I also like DuPont's ChromaOne. I've never used Kirker products, so I can't comment on those.
You will not be able to fully sand or buff a single stage metallic, or else you will either get tiger stripes or blotchiness in the metallic. You could probably get away taking care of a few dirt nibs here or there, but not fully wet sanding or buffing.
An epoxy primer will hold up much better than non-epoxy, it is also less porous. However, it will not hold up to UV over time & will turn chalky. It needs to be topcoated.
I would strip the car down to metal (preferably blast, DA sander, or chemical, in that order of preference), then apply a GOOD epoxy primer. You can do your bodywork from there, then apply a GOOD filler or hi-build primer. Block, apply a sealer (PPG has a sealer mix for use with their DP epoxy line), then paint.
Remember, your paint job is only as good as your prep work underneath. :2thumbs:
As some of the guys mentioned, best thing is to wait, save up and do it the 100% correct way. Personally its the only way IMO. :2thumbs: It will re-rust twice as fast not using the proper materials and labor. :Twocents: Good luck......
How about "Body in white" then, you've steered me to that! (Thanks!) B5blue's white Charger....I hate it....but it's best for now....boring old, plain, white. :eyes:
White it is....(WAAAHHHH!) that removes many problems for now. I was considering satin black but just from feeling the sun's heat of the roof in black Rust Encapsulator holy cow I burned my hand!!!
Don't get me wrong, white is nice and looks great on a white Charger but the first time I saw my car (Before it was mine.) I was Gob-struck :drool5: with B5blue on B5blue 2nd gen Charger. It had me soooo bad I made a deal with the devil's ex-wife, (My ex-mother in law.) to buy and then keep it. (The many door dings along the sides are a dear reminder of her smashing her car's door into it every chance she could.)
Key components like the hood, roof and trunk will be stripped to steel on the exterior and done as recommended. Fenders and doors not so much as they will be removed later to do inside and out. I'll run cost projections that way for now and see.
I'm glad you guys are giving input THANKS!! b5white... :lol:
Could always go to MAACO. I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 04, 2012, 10:25:31 PM
Could always go to MAACO. I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.
Yep. Last I checked, they still do Leon. :yesnod:
However, given the heat & humidity where Neal is from is why I suggested a urethane such as ChromaOne. Centari is good as far as acrylic enamel goes, but a urethane based paint is better.
So a white urethane over epoxy primer....
Quote from: b5blue on February 05, 2012, 08:06:03 AM
So a white urethane over epoxy primer....
That would do it for sure. You would have to read the tech. sheet on epoxy primer but I think with 2 coats you would be weather proof. Years ago PPG used to have a white epoxy primer when we were first dealing with pearls but definitely read the tech or product sheet on what ever you are going to use.
Quote from: b5blue on February 05, 2012, 08:06:03 AM
So a white urethane over epoxy primer....
i JUST USED UPOL HIGH BUILD PRIMER OVER SOME EPOXY . PPG DP-50 GREY EPOXY AND GREY UPOL .HE UPOL FILLS TWICE AS GOOD AS THE K-36 FROM PPG AND IS HALF THE COST. ITS SO DENSE AND THICK YOU HAVE TO REDUCE IT OUT TO GET IT TO EVEN GET IT OUT OF THE GUN.
lIKE OTHERS HAV SAID BARE METAL. FINISHED WITH 150 GRIT DA. THEN WIPE IT ALL DOWN WITH SOME GOOD WAX AND GREASE SOLVENT, A GOOD ONE THAT IS A CLEAN SOLVENT IS NAPAS KLEANZ EZ . THEN USE PPG GREY EPOXY SEALER. A GOOD COUPLE COATS THEN DO ALL YOUR BONDO WORK OVER THAT, HEN HIT ALL THE BARE METAL THAT COMES THROUGH AFTER YOUR BONDO WORK. THEN HIT ALL BARE METAL SPOTS AGIN WITH THE EPOXY. HEN SCUFF THE WHOLE THING WITH A RED SCOTHBRITE PAD. THEN UPOL THE HELL OUTTA IT. yOU CAN MIX IT AND SHOOT IT WITHOUT WAITING BETWEN COATS AS IT DRIES VERY FAST . USE SOME GOOD REDUCER TO THIN IT OUT JUST ENOUGH TO GET IT OUT OF THE GUN. iD SUGGEST A 6.0 OR 8.0 TIP O HE GUN. IT IS VERY HAD TO GET IT TO RUN. IT IS A 4-TO 1 MIX . tAKE THE CAN DOWN TO LOCAL HARDWARE STORE AND HAVE THEM SHAKE I FOR 15 MIUTES.
i ACTUALLY PUT REDUCER IN IT BEFORE I PUT IT ON MY SHAKER. 10%. IT STINKS TO HIGH HEAVEN SO PLEASE DON;T BREATH THE VAPORS LET ALONE OVERSPRAY. 1 GALLON SHOULD BE ENOUGH TO DO THE ENTIRE CAR. i COULD GO ONAND ON. LAST MOST IMPORTANT THING WITH UPOL PRIMER IN THE ORANGE CAN IS THAT AFTER CURING FOR A COUPLE DAYS . FINISH IT WITH FINAL SANDPAPER OF 600 GRIT AND EPOXY THE WHOLE CAR BEFORE PAINTING OR THE PAINT WILL NOT STICK TO IT. i JUST DID A COMPLETE AND WENT FROM 150- 240 TO 320 -400 TO 600. THAT WAS ON MY HUTCHINS MODEL 800 ORBITAL LONG BOARD. PLUS OTHER VARIOUS SNDING FLEXIBLE AND NON FLEXIBLE BLOCKS
WE GET 180 INCHES OF RAIN HERE ANDi HAVE TO DO JOBS THAT WON'T COME BACK SO i KNOW HOW TO DO THIS AS A COMEBACK MEANS i HAVE TO REDO IT ON MY OWN TIME.. iVE LEARNED IT DON'T PAY TO GO TO CHEAP ON MATERIALS. AND THE UPOL SANDS WAAAY BETTER THAN PPG K-36. i PAINTED A DEHAVILLAND BEAVER WITH PPG CONCEPT ABOUT 15 YEARS AGO AND IT STILL LOOKS GOOD. ID BETTER SHUT UP. ANY PAINTING ADVISE JUST LET ME KNOW.
Quote from: Highbanked Hauler on February 05, 2012, 12:29:52 PM
Quote from: b5blue on February 05, 2012, 08:06:03 AM
So a white urethane over epoxy primer....
That would do it for sure. You would have to read the tech. sheet on epoxy primer but I think with 2 coats you would be weather proof. Years ago PPG used to have a white epoxy primer when we were first dealing with pearls but definitely read the tech or product sheet on what ever you are going to use.
ppg EPOXY WILL NOT LAST OUT IN THE ELEMENTS. i KNOW FROM EXPERIENCE. IT WOULD PROBABLY BE OK TO MIX SOME PPG DP-50 GREY EPOXY WITH THE DP-48 WHITE EPOXY TO TO GET AN OFF WHITE AND A BASE THAT WILL COVER . WHITE DP-48 IS THE POOREST HIDING AND LESS PIGMENT THAN ALL THEIR EPOXY LINE. iF YOU KEEP IT OUT OF THE RAIN. AND PUT A GOOD 6 COATS ON IT. YOULL BE OK FOR A WHILE. RAIN IS ITS ENEMY. THANX TOM
Try SPI epoxy, you won't regret it. It's BETTER than PPG DPLF epoxy. PPG does have good base (deltron) and their clears are not bad but they're way too overpriced. You can get better product for less money imo.
I use Finish 1 FP410 2K HS Urethane Primer vs PPG K36(another overpriced product) I get it at very good price and it build excellent.
Quote from: Silver R/T on February 05, 2012, 01:19:47 PM
Try SPI epoxy, you won't regret it. It's BETTER than PPG DPLF epoxy. PPG does have good base (deltron) and their clears are not bad but they're way too overpriced. You can get better product for less money imo.
I use Finish 1 FP410 2K HS Urethane Primer vs PPG K36(another overpriced product) I get it at very good price and it build excellent.
hEY i AGREE THEIRS LESS EXPENSIVE PAINTS AND SUCH THAT ARE BETTER OR AS GOOD AS THE BIG NAME BRANDS. jUST ORDERED SOME MIPA PRIMER WILL BE HERE NEXT WEEK. SINCE I PAINT 7-365 DAYS A YEAR I TRY TO GET ANYTHING THAT STINKS LESS. aND NOW IM ALLERGIC TO K-36 A WAY OVERPRICED -THIN AND STUPID PRIMER . SO YEAH ITS TRIAL AND ERROR.
another vote for the FP410 :yesnod:
If you have to leave it, leave it in sealer, better than primer IMHO
More thanks for the input guys. :2thumbs:
I'm inspired to continue stripping and start filling and patching what I can. The work done up to now is what's showed me the need to prep/repair and get a topcoat on it. White will let me do the car in sections then move to the next and then scuff and re-shoot the whole thing at my buddy's shop one last time. I'm bookmarking this topic for myself as a reference so add anything you think may help, work will be going slow between Dad duty and my job. I have some "throwaway" guns from Harbor Freight to mess with and a dryer and filters to add to my compressor next. :scratchchin:
I would block sand the shit out of it starting with 150g. Bring it up to 220g-320g. Then a light "scratch-coat" of the FP410, wait 10 mins and then x2 full coats. After its dry, prep the whole car in 220 and begin your filler from there. Spot sand rougher where you use filler. I would also add, it can be hard to feather filler to filler. I always try to primer in between applications. (unless you cover the entire area again) And always use a block, they never lie. Work panel by panel from one end to the other, little by little and soon you'll be in sealer.. I would think B5 would be best with grey sealer depending on the actual shade you want. The sealer color will affect the final color tone. I just use the closest sealer color to save on paint.
I'm getting confused (Again) some specs call for etching primer on bare steel prior to urethane (2K) primer or epoxy primer? Can I use epoxy primer OVER steel, old paint and old primer? What about 2K urethane primer? (Of course given it's stable.) I'm having trouble interpreting 4 company's different specs.
I may be pissing up a tree but am trying to find an all purpose primer for a urethane (single stage white) topcoat. So far only Eastwood's actually claims outright it will do this. I'm fine with trying their stuff but SPI has a very fine reputation on many forums.
Also I'm assuming I can re-coat my urethane primer or top coat as long as it's properly scuffed/sanded.
Epoxy primer can go on bare steel and does not require self etching primer (self etching primer is old school, barely anyone uses it anymore)
2K urethane primer is usually high build primer that you put on 2-3 heavy wet coats after you've done bodywork/filler and then you block sand it starting with 180 and finishing off with 400/600 wet.
There is primer sealer (you just reduce epoxy primer) and use it as a sealer, you can do this with SPI epoxy. You put on very thin wet coat over entire car before you paint, to fill in any small sanding scratches (400 grit) and to provide better adhesion for your topcoat (paint)
Don't use etching primer, use epoxy. FYI, a lot of epoxy's are not compatible with etching primer. (Be sure to read tech sheets for products you are using!)
Jason
adding to Silver's post....consider contrasting colors epoxy vs blocking primer (i.e.black vs grey), that way you'll know to stop blocking BEFORE busting through to bare metal.
:2thumbs: If I topcoat my urethane primer soon can I not use epoxy? (Or vise verse). I'm trying to just use 1 type primer.
Ive gone through this threa before. and ,a friend of mine had a rusty old challenger and the car was in bare metal but sat around for a couple years outside, and was a rust nightmare. Our shop did not want to tackle that job. so a back yarder who actually knows a little about painting. used the eastwood cover it all up rust block primer.. well its been ten years until it started showing a little rust, and im not sure its from the outside surface rust. anyway the stuff impressed the hell outta me.
If you just want a protector to put on until you can really get in ther an do it all up right id suggest the eastwood all in one rust block, best stuff out their besides bouey paint.
Tom do you mean Rust Encapsulator? (That's what I started using.)
Quote from: b5blue on February 08, 2012, 04:58:58 PM
Tom do you mean Rust Encapsulator? (That's what I started using.)
I believe thats what he used. It blocks off moisture and oxygen so rust cannot keep rusting. But you have to topcoat it. Ive used por 15 without topcoating it and it will rust like a pig. I would go with the eastwood rust encasulator. still gring da or something to get it as clean as you can. first then aply the stuff and then do your thick prime and paint job.
Well this is good news, the roof is striped/sandblasted and coated with that stuff. The whole reason for this topic was to figure out how to proceed from that start. I've read much on primers both urethane and epoxy from several sites and mfg's spec. sheets. :2thumbs:
I've tried Eastwood Rust Encapsulator and primer didnt seem to stick too well on the outer body.. :shruggy:
Quote from: bill440rt on February 04, 2012, 10:36:43 PM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 04, 2012, 10:25:31 PM
Could always go to MAACO. I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.
Yep. Last I checked, they still do Leon. :yesnod:
However, given the heat & humidity where Neal is from is why I suggested a urethane such as ChromaOne. Centari is good as far as acrylic enamel goes, but a urethane based paint is better.
I grew up on Centari and still think the world of it. Don't forget the performance pack which makes Centari like urethane.
Quote from: Hudson Hornet ! on February 09, 2012, 10:53:02 PM
Quote from: bill440rt on February 04, 2012, 10:36:43 PM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 04, 2012, 10:25:31 PM
Could always go to MAACO. I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.
Yep. Last I checked, they still do Leon. :yesnod:
However, given the heat & humidity where Neal is from is why I suggested a urethane such as ChromaOne. Centari is good as far as acrylic enamel goes, but a urethane based paint is better.
I grew up on Centari and still think the world of it. Don't forget the performance pack which makes Centari like urethane.
No way! :o They still make the performance pack?? That's great!! I remember using that stuff with Centari, painted many cars with it. :yesnod:
I thought for sure it would have made it's way to extinction already like Lucite.
Quote from: bill440rt on February 09, 2012, 11:08:39 PM
Quote from: Hudson Hornet ! on February 09, 2012, 10:53:02 PM
Quote from: bill440rt on February 04, 2012, 10:36:43 PM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 04, 2012, 10:25:31 PM
Could always go to MAACO. I prefer Dupont Centari single stage. Do they still make that? LEON.
Yep. Last I checked, they still do Leon. :yesnod:
However, given the heat & humidity where Neal is from is why I suggested a urethane such as ChromaOne. Centari is good as far as acrylic enamel goes, but a urethane based paint is better.
going for the cheap cantari is good Ive shot hundreds of gallons of it i still like it.
I grew up on Centari and still think the world of it. Don't forget the performance pack which makes Centari like urethane.
No way! :o They still make the performance pack?? That's great!! I remember using that stuff with Centari, painted many cars with it. :yesnod:
I thought for sure it would have made it's way to extinction already like Lucite.
I see Kirker has the same, Acrylic enamel with urethane added.... :scratchchin: and good news my supplier will loan me a 3M adhesive gun for my patch panels. :2thumbs:
Anyone use Evercoat's Quantum 1 body filler system? My supplier said he will give me some to try for free!
I found a great price for a gal. of Kirker Brilliant White urethane (activator included.) 73.00+shipping. (A 90's Chrysler paint code.) :scratchchin:
How many gal. for the whole car?
Quote from: b5blue on February 11, 2012, 05:25:02 PM
I see Kirker has the same, Acrylic enamel with urethane added.... :scratchchin: and good news my supplier will loan me a 3M adhesive gun for my patch panels. :2thumbs:
Anyone use Evercoat's Quantum 1 body filler system? My supplier said he will give me some to try for free!
Believe it or not i tied some NAPA tec one supreme bondo. its a little runny but its all our shop uses now it sands very well its the best bondo ive used to date beating uot all others . thers very very little fine pinholes .. its worth a try I tried some bondo gene winfield got called( Filler up) and the holes were more like craters. trust me with the NAPA tec one.
The Quantum 1 uses a caulk gun with mixing tips....no air mixed in! :2thumbs:
If what you want to do is bury all the old ,,including rust and old paint and crap . then id go with the eastwood stuff. you can let it sit for quite some time. and you can always recoat anythig. just go over it with soe 320 on a da and wipe down with a mild wax and grease then over reduce some epoxy for your first coat ,and im talking just a fog coat ten follow with two full wet coats , wait 20 minutes for flash time.
Ive really only used corlar epoxy from dupont napas epoxy and ppg epoxy. theirs a lot of shops that use ppg epoxy and topcoat with something else as its very good epoxy. I reduce out ppg's epoxy 10% so as to not get orangepeel cause paint goes over it right away. ppg epoxy will work under any paint system . I like the grey dp-50 LF it covers very well. you can also tint it ,I just did a yellow mustang and put a little 4% toner in it and it was a yellowish base that covered better.
Quote from: b5blue on February 12, 2012, 01:01:32 PM
The Quantum 1 uses a caulk gun with mixing tips....no air mixed in! :2thumbs:
Ive seen that stuff in a magazine, Id like to try out all new technologies. but I just use what makes me the most money and is the fastest. Is it worth gettin?
I'm gonna try some and report back. I found for a production shop with tech's well experienced in this, it is most likely too costly. Retail is 20 a cartridge but I found it cheaper so will see. I suck at gauging how much hardener to add and mixing fast so for the many small repairs I have it could be a great help. There are videos on YouTube from Evercoat on it. One of the advantages of this "temporary paint job" is I'll find what works and what fails. I can go right back in to fix and re-shoot the area.
Update, Eastwood has their 1 to 1 epoxy primer gallon on sale for 59.00 with free gallon of activator. I think it's re-branded Kirker products they use so I got some to try. @ 2 gallons mixed for about 71 bucks shipped it's worth a shot. Some forums have said the Kirker epoxy primer is good and Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun is actually not a bad working unit so I picked up one of them and a gravity feed gun to try out. As this first shoot will be sanded down and having filler and other repairs done I'm not to worried if the guns suck. :lol: If they do work OK I can use them 1 or 2 times and throw them out they are so cheap.
YES, The cheap $30 Harbor Freight spray guns work good for primer & sealer. I use them. Primer guns gets trashed pretty quick & I dont like the ideal of trashing a good $300+ Sata Jet, Devilbiss, Binks, awata, ect, ect. LEON.
Quote from: b5blue on April 07, 2012, 09:30:53 AM
Update, Eastwood has their 1 to 1 epoxy primer gallon on sale for 59.00 with free gallon of activator. I think it's re-branded Kirker products they use so I got some to try. @ 2 gallons mixed for about 71 bucks shipped it's worth a shot. Some forums have said the Kirker epoxy primer is good and Harbor Freight HVLP spray gun is actually not a bad working unit so I picked up one of them and a gravity feed gun to try out. As this first shoot will be sanded down and having filler and other repairs done I'm not to worried if the guns suck. :lol: If they do work OK I can use them 1 or 2 times and throw them out they are so cheap.
Yes, Eastwood (and Summit brand) paints and primers are relabeled Kirker. Pretty decent stuff for the money, I have used the epoxy before and its pretty good.
Jason
Quote from: hemi-hampton on April 07, 2012, 09:37:46 PM
YES, The cheap $30 Harbor Freight spray guns work good for primer & sealer. I use them. Primer guns gets trashed pretty quick & I dont like the ideal of trashing a good $300+ Sata Jet, Devilbiss, Binks, awata, ect, ect. LEON.
:iagree:
The cheaper guns are perfect for primers, they lack the finesse of the good guns and that's absolutely perfect for primers!
Quote from: Dino on April 08, 2012, 08:36:45 AM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on April 07, 2012, 09:37:46 PM
YES, The cheap $30 Harbor Freight spray guns work good for primer & sealer. I use them. Primer guns gets trashed pretty quick & I dont like the ideal of trashing a good $300+ Sata Jet, Devilbiss, Binks, awata, ect, ect. LEON.
:iagree:
The cheaper guns are perfect for primers, they lack the finesse of the good guns and that's absolutely perfect for primers!
x3 :yesnod:
I'm using a cheap a Central Pneumatic HVLP gravity feed gun purchased at a swap meet for my primer gun. Works just fine, lays it on nice.
I'll save my nice SATA for clear.
Thanks guys! :yesnod:
Quote from: Silver R/T on February 05, 2012, 01:19:47 PM
Try SPI epoxy, you won't regret it. It's BETTER than PPG DPLF epoxy. PPG does have good base (deltron) and their clears are not bad but they're way too overpriced. You can get better product for less money imo.
I use Finish 1 FP410 2K HS Urethane Primer vs PPG K36(another overpriced product) I get it at very good price and it build excellent.
I wouldn't recomend SPI if you plan to leave it exposed for any length of time. I finished a car once in SPI epoxy light gray and left it exposed outside for about 5 months. At that time the primer was starting to breakdown due to the lack of UV protectant. Ended up wet sanding the entire car appied one more coat SPI expoxy and then B/C.
I've got 2 gallons of Eastwood epoxy to prime and seal. The topcoat will be Kirker white single stage soon to follow. Then the plan is rust repairs in bad areas, about 15% here and there on the car. I know...it sounds goofy and bass aackwards but I'm halting the degrading generally all over as most of the car is pretty good. The white is just the protector and base for the blue later. :2thumbs:
Quote from: b5blue on April 12, 2012, 04:59:01 PM
I've got 2 gallons of Eastwood epoxy to prime and seal. The topcoat will be Kirker white single stage soon to follow. Then the plan is rust repairs in bad areas, about 15% here and there on the car. I know...it sounds goofy and bass aackwards but I'm halting the degrading generally all over as most of the car is pretty good. The white is just the protector and base for the blue later. :2thumbs:
Actually you've got a good idea. Projects can get stalled at any point. Plus if it's protected (and yours will be) it can be put outside, trailered etc without worry. I see LOTS of guys strip their cars to metal, and wait for the metal work to get finished. Usually something comes up and the poor car winds up rusting way worse than if it was left alone.
I like your idea!! Plus, having it in one colour is VERY good motiviation :)
Thanks, yea I have to drive it regular or I go nuts! :yesnod:
The epoxy is started. My cheap Harbor Freight HVLP worked well with a 1.4 tip. I got the drivers side stripped and coated. Now for some filler, do I sand with 150 grit prior to applying filler or just go over unsanded epoxy? :scratchchin:
Pictures?
Sanding depends on what the can says. I'm using kirker epoxy and it says spray right over but if you wait more than 5 days you have to scuff first.
Just make sure you have a good mask on and wear long sleeves. That epoxy fog gets all over. I had on short sleeves and felt my hairs on my arm stick.Hers a picture of my buddy spraying my 72.
Quote from: b5blue on May 04, 2012, 06:09:38 PM
The epoxy is started. My cheap Harbor Freight HVLP worked well with a 1.4 tip. I got the drivers side stripped and coated. Now for some filler, do I sand with 150 grit prior to applying filler or just go over unsanded epoxy? :scratchchin:
you can put bondo right over unsanded epoxy if its a couple days old. Just take a new red scotchbrite pad and go over it one pass. wait for the bondo to cure for a whole day before sanding. that way it will bond very well.
Thanks again Tom! It's a full 7 day cure today. :scratchchin: (1st pic)
The prep for shoot will go slower as I had "just" last week off. I got all the repaint topcoat off the other side and most of the primer and factory topcoat on the front fender with a razor blade scraper today. (2nd pic)
Looking good Neal :2thumbs:
Jason
Thanks Jason!
Quote from: b5blue on May 05, 2012, 04:20:26 PM
Thanks again Tom! It's a full 7 day cure today. :scratchchin: (1st pic)
The prep for shoot will go slower as I had "just" last week off. I got all the repaint topcoat off the other side and most of the primer and factory topcoat on the front fender with a razor blade scraper today. (2nd pic)
for the future to strip an entire car in a day or two. (the exterior) all you need is a electric buffer with speed control and a 8 inch soft pad for it. then you start out with 80 grit round 8 inch stikit paper. RED and start stripping. for the areas you run into deep bondo save those areas for last ,and use 36 grit RED stikit disks . I can do an entire exterior of a car in a day only because ive done so many. this of course is a home remedy but works great. for tight areas use scotchbrite wheels or roloc discs. We ran into a bedside that needed to be stripped at the shop a few months ago and I wanted to show the new kid how to strip 3 old coats of paint off of it. It took me an hour to do the bedside.then sand with 80 d/a . just look online or at paint store for 8 inch soft pad. that screws onto a buffer. lookin good
Thanks for all your advise Tom it's much appreciated! The first side (The one in epoxy.) was/is really the worst of it and I've been teaching myself how to get it filled in with body filler. It's already so hot down here it kicks off FAST!
I'm getting better at spraying the epoxy flatter, your tips were spot on so I'll have much less re-sanding to do. :2thumbs:
UPDATE:
I'm getting ready to try the Quantum 1 Slow repair body filler. I found a deal online @ www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com that made the difference, 6 cartridges of Quantum 1, 12 swirl tips, an Evercoat HD cartridge gun (Really nice caulk gun.) and a free XL Quantum 1 tee shirt. Total came to 100.85 shipped and it got here in 3 days.
The "slow" should give me the working time I need, I'm keeping the stuff inside the house in the A/C so it starts cooler, that did help the Rage Gold from kicking over so fast. I also found Evercoat Maxim medium set bonding adhesive, it can be used with the same gun (Any standard HD caulk gun will work, no "special gun" needed.) so I got 3 cartridges from "Fox Run Tools" online at the best price, again just over 100.00. This stuff has a working time of 30-40 minutes and is fully an epoxy adhesive with a 1 to 1 mixing. Each tube comes with 2 tips for mixing.
The rain is my big holdup now, we are in the season so progress will be hit or miss. (As I'm on a covered carport.)
I'll report back on my opinion of how these products work/behave as I use them in the weeks ahead if anyone is interested.
With the exception of the front valance and the rear tail light area the OUTSIDE of the body is stripped including the roof that WAS coated in Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. I would still be grinding were it not for Tom's great advise! (Thanks!) I got a coupon from Harbor Freight for their "7 inch Buffer/Sander" for 29.00.
A bunch of 80 grit, days/weeks of fighting rain (Including "Debbie's beating") and mosquito attacks, covering the car with a 18X12 tarp and trying to hide this work from the HOA and I'm ready to start attacking all the little rust spots with OSPHO and a sand blaster this weekend.
The H.F. HVLP gun has worked out so well I picked up 2 more on sale for 12.99 each, NO fogging with the HVLP's, it puts the epoxy where you point it. It just took some experimenting to get the gun adjusted and get use to the epoxy kick-over pot life. (It stops laying down and gets orange peel heavy.)The Eastwood epoxy sands real nice once fully dry and tested areas show very good adhesion. (So did the Rust Encapsulator, it protected all my earlier roof prep and put up quite a battle removing it!)
After the body is in epoxy the plan is to start cutting for rust hole patches and trying the Evercoat Quantum 1 (slow) body filler and Maxim panel adhesive. It's odd after all these years of looking at my crappy b5 blue paint job to see the car mostly steel! I'll post picks soon, the interesting part is coming up, cutting the Dutchman filler a sail-sides out to replace and splicing in the rear 1/4 window edges that are rusted out with patch sections from Bill and Steve. (The other patches are fairly small on the doors front lower section, passenger front fender and front lower of the rear quarter.)
I enjoyed reading through this. Sound a lot like what I just went through. Looking forward to the progress pictures. :2thumbs:
God am I sick of grinding paint! :lol: I found 7 layers on on the sides! :eek2:
That's how mine was. Of all the colors I never found the origonal eggshell white. It was green, red, blue, red, and orange, then I had a layer of black on top of that. All the colors were even except the one fender was missing the 1st layer of green and red. It started life purple.....lol.
:lol:
Here is a few shots......
Looking good, Neal :2thumbs:
Keep the updates coming :cheers:
Jason
Hey buddy! Thanks for your help also! :2thumbs:
The body has 2 coats of epoxy now. I kept prepping/stripping as the weather was terrible for spraying, rain, rain ,rain. I have 10 days off starting the 3rd so hacking out the Dutchman, inside of the sails and trunk gutters starts Friday. I've set no target for progress after this last series of delay/set backs due to weather. (I do hope to get worst spots repaired though!) :yesnod: I'll take pics for everyone as I go.
Quarter repairs are in. The lip and area under the belt line trim for the rear side windows was mostly rusted away but hidden. Bill and Steve sent me sections of old quarter panels for repair. (Thanks guys!) I ground and sandblasted them then coated them with Rust Encapsulator. I used Maxim 100813 panel adhesive with 22ga sheet steel as a backer strip. (So the thickness's match.) I have a "flange tool" but the overlap is only 1/2 inch and instructions call for 1-1 1/2 overlap ideally. Using pointed sheet metal screws and drilling small pilot holes first I fitted 2 inch strips of the 22ga to the body then fitted my patches. I removed everything and cleaned/stripped and prepped then glued the whole mess together. I took a tip from Tom and filled the screw holes with the adhesive after letting it cure.
Well after months of high 90's blistering heat and rain soaked weekends combined with my pesky Jeep Cherokee's habit of oddball failures at the most inopportune times I've started back on the car. (I swear the Jeep gets jealous of the Charger!)
The Eastwood epoxy is holding up very well, covering the car with a large tarp from Harbor Freight helped keep it cleaner, dryer and out of the sun that shoots straight up and all the way to the back of my carport every morning. For awhile I was getting up at 5 AM running a few loads of body filler on the weekends but just gave up, it was just too hot. The filler would harden too fast, I was throwing more away then was getting on the car. Spraying more epoxy was impossible as I was dripping sweat everywhere and with 100% humidity I could not dry the compressed air in my lines enough.
Now I'm "jigsaw puzzling" in the areas around the trunk in preparation for replacing the trunk filler panel and inside of the sail panels. The extensive rust around the rear 1/4's trunk lip edges and trunk gutters gave me fits trying to sort out. I ordered new AMD gutters only to find the new parts were not shaped as I hoped. They are correct it's just the tie in area was so rusted and patched I had no clue how the factory mated these parts when new. All I can do is patch and hope for the best as clearly later full new 1/4's along with the trunk floor and so on are just not in budget for a few years. (It's a lot of farting around and fudging with sorry ass fixing by most standards but it will just have to do.) Pics soon. :eek2:
Here are pics of "the puzzle" I am working on now. New AMD trunk gutters with fabbed rear 1/4 tie in steel. I've more patching to do on the tail light surround but wanted to get to the trunk filler and inside of the sail sections. I pulled the rear glass and cut out the worst of the old repairs and rust to start sizing up for the Sherman repair sections I bought years ago.
Here is a shot of the Sherman parts laid in place. You can see in the previous pics the trunk floor has issues that will just have to wait for $$$$. :lol:
Well my leave is approved, starting 12th till 21st of this month so here I go! Now if the weather cooperates, and the HOA don't catch me I just may get somewhere. The plan is to finish patching rust holes with epoxy panel adhesive, body filler and block then re-shoot epoxy primer. Block finer re-shoot primer and start the white topcoat. As The inside of the hood and engine bay have yet to be tackled I'm just going to paint the top of the nose in Eastwood's black Rust Encapsulator kinda like a "Rally" look, that way I can work into getting that whole under hood area into the blue coming later. (I have a bunch left from switching to epoxy primer last year and testing on my Jeep shows it holds up to the sun well.) The key from what you have all said is to get a good coat of topcoat over all the work done so far as I have kept the car covered and out of the sun/rain on my carport. :scratchchin:
I broke down and ordered more white to be certain I have enough to just shoot the whole car "pure" white over the "bright white" that is really more like very light gray. The more I looked at the car the more I didn't like leaving the hood area in black just to save a shade of white that was too dark. :scratchchin:
More Evercoat product came in with old date of manufacture codes last week, stuff from 09 and 10 is way too old to trust anymore! FoxRun is going to try and express more fresh stock Monday to me. This will be 15 cartridges of Quantum 1 and Maxim I received in the last 8 months that were well over a year old.
To be clear to everyone, Evercoat dates all their products and is very clear that it must not be more than one year from manufacture to be useable! The system is simple, look for a stamp on cans or printed on the label of a cartridge for "LOT A:" the first number is the year and the next one or two digits will be the month. Refuse any product older. I have found many items for sale on eBay that are out of date and inquired to many vendors about date codes with little help back.
I'll post pic's if I can of steps taken. Wish me luck the weather looks to be perfect the next 10 days. A huge THANK YOU to all who took the time to try a steer me correctly on this, boy I wish I had more $$ to have gotten deeper into "proper" replacement repairs! (I'm saving 1000's of bucks but hate cutting corners.)
More stripping on the tail and cut the bad section of rear lower valance after dropping the bumper. Drilled holes for pass side mirror and test fit, cut out rust on front fender, door and did more filler work. Rain tomorrow so I set up side room to work on trunk lid and some other parts.
Had some setbacks, started Rust Bullet coating, cut rotten section of rear valance and had to "make do" on the Dutchman and inside sail panels. I keep finding "surprises" that Steve "warned" me about in the rear. Later this year I'll be buying a welder and start saving for a pile of AMD. :eek2: But for now I do what I can, I ordered valance corners for next weekend to go with the lower valance repairs. (Thanks again Bill!)
Keep chipping away at Neal....you'll get there :2thumbs: Looking good.
Jason
Looks good from where I sit. Here shortly, I'll be floating in the same boat. Keep at it :2thumbs: :popcrn:
How do you plan to fix the lower part of the rear valence without removing it completely?
Which manufacturers parts do you plan to use?
I'm thinking about taking the lower part of mine off on the drivers-side so that i can more easily do a little rust repair to the rear crossmember.
Thanks!
Matt
Keep chipping away, Neal. You'll get there soon. :cheers:
Thanks guys!
Quote from: matrout76 on January 21, 2013, 09:05:07 AM
How do you plan to fix the lower part of the rear valence without removing it completely?
Which manufacturers parts do you plan to use?
I'm thinking about taking the lower part of mine off on the drivers-side so that i can more easily do a little rust repair to the rear crossmember.
Thanks!
Matt
The valance was from Bill in trade, so unknown, the gutters and corners of valance are AMD. The Dutchman and sail panel insides are Shermans' and are fairly a terrible mess. Better by far than starting with a hunk of flat sheet stock and no metal working tools but the Dutchman is no less than 1/4" too narrow side to side and top gutter to trunk gutter. (At least on my cars build.) The sail repairs are a gauge thinner than factory and would require masterful extensive reworking on a truly being "restored Charger". The edges that mate along the seam between them on both parts are not wide enough to allow a good spot weld, I had to use tiny framing screws and leave them installed just to get some kind of mechanical bond to go with the panel bonding adhesive. (I've yet to figure how to attach the trunk hinge assembly's where they should.)
Behind the bumper the steel sandwich between the valance, rear support and bottom of the tail light housing along with the bumper reinforcement brackets inside the trunk are all spot weld interconnected in layers and for me it made sense just to cut the lower rotted valance off and replace just that area with new corners. I'm waiting for the corners to figure that mess before anymore cut and prep work. Matt how you could get in there with the way everything is spot welded would be tricky and depend on what your trying to get to and the condition of what you want to re use. (Let me know if you need pics of my mess while it's open.)
Last night I shot a rat with my laser sighted Crossman that was hanging around, point the dot and squeeze the trigger, instant dead rat. Then this AM I found some damn critter is back marking my Charger with scent squirt again. This has been going on for too long and has me disgusted, traps are being set up. Pics..
I see a dead dog in your future. Sad to hear your having so much fun ( trouble) getting your car back together, but in the end, it'll be worth it. Keep at it :cheers:
It's not a dog, it's one of the many stray/owner-less cats, or cats owners allow out to "run the hood" at all hours. (I know that stink,,,it's NOT pee! :eek2:)
Thanks all for the encouragement and help/advise. :2thumbs:
What ever ends up in the trap will go to animal control for them to deal with. The pisser is I really like pets and wish I had one! :rotz:
Quote from: b5blue on January 21, 2013, 03:59:13 PM
It's not a dog, it's one of the many stray/owner-less cats, or cats owners allow out to "run the hood" at all hours. (I know that stink,,,it's NOT pee! :eek2:)
Thanks all for the encouragement and help/advise. :2thumbs:
What ever ends up in the trap will go to animal control for them to deal with. The pisser is I really like pets and wish I had one! :rotz:
Thank you for being part of the human race and not killing the cat, it doesn't know it's marking a classic. :2thumbs:
My neighbor next door to me hates the little yapper (Nugget) behind her but I think Nugget is cute as a button! (Just a misguided high energy 6 mo. old Terrier mix.) :lol: It's not the cat...it's the owner I am not feeling any love for, this has been going on for 2 years now. :rotz:
Quote from: b5blue on January 21, 2013, 04:09:52 PM
My neighbor next door to me hates the little yapper (Nugget) behind her but I think Nugget is cute as a button! (Just a misguided high energy 6 mo. old Terrier mix.) :lol: It's not the cat...it's the owner I am not feeling any love for, this has been going on for 2 years now. :rotz:
Usually the same story with humans, it's not the kid, it's the parent.
I don't have any love for those kind of people either, kitty will be better off with a loving family. :yesnod:
Yup I call the Kitty Cops and they take them to Pussy Prison for rehab! :lol:
Quote from: b5blue on January 21, 2013, 07:00:52 PM
Yup I call the Kitty Cops and they take them to Pussy Prison for rehab! :lol:
:smilielol:
My rear valance corners came in today, that is the last of the body puzzle pieces.... :2thumbs:
After clearing out more Bondo I found more "paint can metal" bent to shape and tack welded underneath it. With the valance and corners for guides I started cutting. Just below the trunk floor seam I cut off the rusted valance and what was left of the rusty corners looking for metal to tie into. I found not much left to tie the corners to the rear quarter with only a tiny bit of the quarters lip, and that in very poor condition. Also the ends of the cross member support were shot. Here is what I came up with after days of scratching my head. I had 16ga. plates welded to the inside tabs of the corners and 1 1/4 mounting plates mounted @ 90* to the corners' quarter side mounting flanges. They are recessed enough to bury rivet heads in Evercoat Metal-2-Metal and will be panel adhesive bonded to the outside trailing edges of the quarters.
This is clamped in place for fitment/testing and looks like I'll have a close to correct and strong repair done this weekend. Here are 3 pics, 1 pass side damage, 2 drivers side damage and 3 is a shot of the modified valance corners.
I ran out of daylight pushing the prep work/painting and test fitting/clamping. I'll post pics of the Chargers rear showing cuts and placement later this weekend. (Boy do I wish I had a welder! :lol: )
Mock up pics taken with my new Vivitar $14.88 camcorder from Big Lots. :lol:
Picked up steel rivets to attach the sections in place along with the adhesive. :scratchchin:
Quote from: b5blue on January 26, 2013, 01:18:31 PM
Picked up steel rivets to attach the sections in place along with the adhesive. :scratchchin:
What are you going to glue? I'm okay with skins being bonded with adhesive but anything structural imo should be welded. If you're using adhesive for that, no matter how strong they may be these days, I would make sure you had a seriously stiffened frame because these suckers flex like crazy under power. Rivets will definitely help but I have a funny feeling about this, maybe I'm just old school and I do admit I have not been keeping up with autobody products since I left that industry.
No decent welders available on your local CL?
Oh no just panels and patches! I'll adhesive and rivet everything you see, the valance to the original steel (Behind the bumper.) and the added corner extensions to the cross member and end of the quarters. Anything structural gets grade 8 bolts and hardware. I used 16 gauge for the extensions to give me beef as the ends of the cross member rusty. The rust issues on my car are all sheet metal body stuff from the crappy rear window Dutchman and trunk gutter repairs. (As seen in my "cut away" shots.) The final fixes (For now.) under the Dutchman will be done (to that tub thing and the back edge of the map shelf lip.) will be done after all this exterior stuff. I did not want to do any repairs that change panel fitment or alignments. (That has been my headache the last 2 months.)
On the advise in this topic the whole car went down to bare steel and got epoxy primed with many coats. That uncovered all of the cars issues and changed the plan at the onset from patch and seal to do the best I can to preserve what is still good. (Short of a real tear down restoration.) 18 years ago this April when I got the car my buddy Larry let me use his lift and high powered industrial steam pressure washer. I blasted the crap out of the entire car, even the inside of the gas tank before it was repaired. The entire chassis was striped, cleaned to perfection, evaluated and painted flat black where needed, with the exception of the foot wells on the floorboards the car is solid as a rock. (That effort proved to me the car was worthy of keeping.) I'll need the welder to replace the foot wells and add sub frame connectors and torque boxes later this year. :2thumbs:
???????? :popcrn:
Rear valance and corners are in, came out better than I had hoped to get. Everything was painted before assembly and recoated with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator after riveting and panel adhesive. (Except the outside of the valance that will get 2 coats of epoxy when I re-shoot repairs all over the car.)
The first pic is the corners bolted in place, second is with the valance installed and the corners attached to the quarters.
Good to see the main bend down the valence is flat on the ends at the corners, that was real bad on mine. I cant imagine much flex going on back there, Im sure you'll be fine. Hell, adhesives are going to be the norm soon. Are you going to seam seal the corner joints? I thought they looked better. :Twocents:
What color are you thinking?
The corner to valance seams were bedded in with a thick bead of panel adhesive, bare steel to bare steel that was scuffed up for adhesion. I pumped more adhesive into the outside of the seam and ran the corner of my body filler spreader (The yellow things) down the seam and filled the seams at the top with what was "tooled" off to seal the entire corner. Adding the 16 ga. on the sides 90* to the flanges to connect the quarters allowed me to do the whole rear first and let that cure in place for a tight fit before attaching the quarter ends. The quarters were re-skinned and off a bit so tweaking the corners (after they were bolted) by just grabbing and bending the mount till the valance mocked up and the lines on the end of the quarters met the corners lines was what gave me flexibility. It took 1/2 a day just fitting and adjusting with clamps and sheet metal screws. Using 3/8 steel rivets let me put rivets where screws were fitted for testing after just drilling the screw holes slightly larger. (There are 20 3/8 steel rivets back there now, most will be hidden by the bumper.)
Why didn't you just weld them in?
No welder and nothing to weld too. (No money for a welder.) Aztec welding welded the 16 ga. mounting plates and "tabs" on the outside flanges of the corners for me. (20 bucks. :2thumbs: ) Keep in mind at the onset of this attempt I had just planned on cutting the corners and bottom of the valance below the bumper off and do nothing back there for now to proceed with the rest of the car.
This isn't a "restoration" it's a "repair as I can for now" to keep using the car. The Dutchman panel and insides of the sail panels were bought before anyone ever heard of AMD, over 12 years ago. Bill traded me for a NOS part for the valance and I realized I could pull this much off after removing the bumper so I bit the bullet and ordered the corners.
Well I just noticed it's a year ago today I started this whole project.The good news is I found 2 places that rent out spray booths! So now I can have a fighting chance at final paint coming out much better. :2thumbs: I'm still working on everything in the rear window to trunk area and going to try to get some epoxy and 1st coat paint back there by Monday night.
Lookin' good, Neal! :cheers:
Valance came out great! Keep chuggin' away, can't wait to see more progress pics. :2thumbs:
Finished prep and then shot the rear window/Dutchman/trunk gutter and butt of the Charger in epoxy primer today. Now I can install the trunk lid and start adjusting repairs to final fit. This Eastwood epoxy sands real well, I started blocking some areas and now that I'm getting better at gun setting/paint mixing the re-coats are looking nicer. (Still much blocking and small filler work to do though. :eek2: )
This puts the whole exterior in a nice 2-3 coats of epoxy primer so I can start blocking and painting in sections as I go. (Still have door jambs, but they are not too bad.)
Notice the old socks for tail pipe masking.... :lol:
Well someone's been busy! Looks real good buddy. :2thumbs:
OK now I need advise guys. What grit for blocking primer just before first topcoat? Is 360, 400 still too rough? I'm going to start white in sections starting in the rear and mostly concerned about good grip to the epoxy. :scratchchin:
Any Updates? LEON.
Hi Leon! Thanks for checking in!
95% ready for 400 grit blocking (started.) and found 3 paint booths for rent at 75/100/125 per day. I'm hoping to shoot the week of 22nd as I have off that week. I called Mike, my first and best painter, of course he's way too busy to help! Chuck who will rent a booth, won't spray others work (But a nice guy anyway.) and now Jerry from "XS Custom Cars" is coming over Saturday for a look at the car to see if he will work a deal on shooting the car at a reasonable price at his shop.
So the logic for me was I'm soooo close, if a hired gun will shoot the car, why not go with B5 Blue! :scratchchin: Jerry will wholesale the paint to me at cost if he shoots or shoot the white Kirker so wish me luck for this weekend. $$$$ is the big ???? :lol:
Im using the eastwood expoy primer and love it!! Cant wait for more pics. Out my way there are no booth rentals and no shop will paint a car they havent done the body work to so im makin my garage into a booth
Areas sprayed a year ago have still held up nicely. I keep a tarp over the car under my carport.
Jerry has agreed to shoot the car for 200.00, now I just have to get it ready! :2thumbs:
Your '70 is looking great Neal! :2thumbs: I know you are getting excited about seeing it in color now that you are getting close....heck I'm getting excited, I've been following your thread since you started and I can't wait until you post your pics after it's painted.
Jason
Thanks! I just prepped and shot the lower front valance today in Rust Encapsulator, next it will go to epoxy prime for paint preparation. I'm sticking with the white for now just to keep in budget, doing my rally mirrors and other stuff like trunk gutters, jambs and so on with B5 Blue starts complicating every aspect. I'll blend the bright and pure white to have 2 gallons of paint and hardener with a quart of slow reducer just in case. That will leave plenty for Jerry and I'll use or save what is left. I told him I'll do the tail (So I can install the new tail light harness and taillights for the ride to his shop and back.) and front lower valance (To make it simple to mask and shoot.) along with masking off the whole car for him. (Nothing left but the glass.)
I ordered all the stuff for the new headliner, sail panels, rear trim and stock type insulation it will be here early next week. I have to remove the interior trim and paint all headliner parts to install the new headliner before installing the rear window. (Bill highly recommended doing the headliner with the rear window out.) I have 2 Qt's of Encapsulator for the inside of the roof so I should be a go.
The weather witch is the only bitch for being ready now! I have the trunk lid and some other parts I can work on inside my "side-room" and am down to very minor blemishes on the entire exterior to finish off. (Before final blocking with 400 grit.)
Aztec Welding is going to price welding the 4 foot well patches I need done, they are such craftsmen I'd rather pay them then buy a welder, I still can't believe the insane quality of the custom bikes they build! :2thumbs:
A week of blocking, finding flaws and getting closer. I'm still fighting with some of the cars lines, it's sooo curvy with lines blending off the doors and disappearing towards the front bumper. The closer I get the harder to fine tune, I'm just going to run with whatever I have next weekend. This paint job will show me what to do next I'm sure. I'm really liking the "body in white" concept. With no clear coat and blue metallic to deal with I can rework things later. :scratchchin:
I'm going over the sections cut in with 150 with 320 today and the whole car with 400 tomorrow. I'll spot my burn through and exposed filler Sunday just before the rain gets here next week. :eek2:
Neal, I feel your pain. Spent two years on body work with my 68. As you mentioned, it seems like the closer you get to paint, the more "little things" you find. I went through that, finally said f*ck it, it's going to be driven. My painter was supposed to paint it for me two Saturdays ago, he backed out at the last minute, ended up painting the car myself. Hope everything works out, can't wait to see the final results.
We are a "GO" for Saturday guys! Jerry just confirmed shoot. Now the panic sets in........ :lol:
:2thumbs: Good Luck & show Pics when done. LEON.
Thanks Leon! Will do.. :yesnod:
Jerry has a "large mechanical job to finish today" so I'm hoping that goes well. I'll probably leave the trunk lid for later, it's just not going to be ready along with hood inserts and rear extension "boomerangs".
Can't wait to see it Neal! I remember when mine was getting close to paint...I didn't have a set date in mind...it was ready so I took off work, I believe it was on a Wednesday, and got it done. You're like me, its been a long time coming, and tomorrow night after its done, you'll just be so proud and keep staring at it and taking pics...you'll be like a kid at Christmas.
Good luck!
Jason
Well I'm waiting for a call from Jerry now, he "should" be finishing spray soon. (?) Starting @ 10:30A he had it masked, resanded to his liking cleaned and tacked off ready for paint around 4:00P so we'll see. :scratchchin: He commented it looked better than expected for a first timer and thinks it will come out pretty nice.
Needless to say right now you couldn't pull a pin out of my butt with a tractor...... :lol:
:cheers: It's a great feeling getting "over the hump" so to speek ! :2thumbs:
:popcrn:
Pics tomorrow guys I just got back from the shop. WOW is it WHITE! :o (b5 white.... :lol:) It's curing over nite at XS shop.
I guess we'll be on pins and needles until you post pix :popcrn:
It's HOME!! :2thumbs:
:o .......... :2thumbs: looks good :drool5: :yesnod: :popcrn:
:2thumbs: looks great!!..........Are you happy?
I'm pleased for a first attempt, it's a 20 footer job for sure, my lack of time and money along with experience show in areas all over the body. If the repairs hold up well round 2 will go late next year. The trunk lid will be ready next weekend, Jerry wanted to spend more time on it before painting.
The car kicked his butt, doing mostly newer cars and some really wild "Tuners" the sheer size had him running to keep up with the single stage Kirker's dry time. (It got much hotter yesterday than we expected even with slow activator.) Overall he did fantastic, 2 runs in the paint and one small blush, but he was insistent I bring it back so he can fix them in a week or two even though I told him I don't care.
I'm lucky Steve sent me to him he's a great guy, he said he wished we had met a year ago as he would have gotten me supplies wholesale and guided me for a better end result so once again the Charger has lead me to yet another good friend! :2thumbs:
Thanks for all the help guys the car is much better than I dared hope for in Feb. of last years start of this topic, my expectations were pretty low back then just trying to seal the car from rusting even more! I'll get better pics for ya with my sons camera later to show you my "goofs", I just had to stop somewhere with the rain and heatwave due any day now.
I'm very pleased and really glad I paid Jerry to shoot! :2thumbs:
You've done your Charger a solid and soon toying will be able to enjoy it. That's a definite win in my book! :2thumbs:
Looks good, the only thing I see missing is you behind the wheel.
:woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo: :woohoo:
Looking good Neal :2thumbs:
Jason
Glad to see your hard work as finally paid off, Neal. :cheers:
You deserve a pat on the back. Kudos to you!
Just think, it's all down hill from here. Just don't get to excited and rush it.
Car looks :drool5: :popcrn:
Great job Neil! Get that beast assembled and ready to rock!
Thanks Dino! I took today off, I got a beast of a cramp in my lower back yesterday possibly stress related worrying more about moving the car around than anything else. Jerry followed me home in the Cherokee and the weather worked out just fine. (No back window, trunk lid and rear bumper.) This morning I noticed as I moved around the car the drivers side I did first looks worse and it gets way better as I hit the passengers side and rear. (The rear was the disaster!) :lol:
I was getting into the "really get it close" kinda mindset towards the end and that was really never the intent of this mission, it was to halt decay and protect. :2thumbs:
Looks Good :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
You need to change your screen name to Great White. ;)
Kicked his butt eh? I bet! It's a solid 6 hours to spray a Charger...and that's running and sweating. Congrats on the progress, enjoy it!
Looks good. Based on your budget and what you had to work with, great job. I have a lot of respect to those that can complete everything on a restoration. :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
My goal is to do this also - getting close.
Had I had more time (more so than money.) it could have been much better. There is so much more to do to the entire car this is mostly a sacrificial protective paint coating, areas look worse than the photos can show. (Yes it's starting to bug me, but oh well.) :lol:
Thanks for the positive! b5
:2thumbs:
Yes, but you picked a solid color to do it. Since the whole car is done now, next year, you can just redo a panel or two, and have it re-shot with paint. :2thumbs:
Exactly! :2thumbs:
Should've went with base/clear. Its more durable paint and easier to work with.
Shot in 2013 the Kirker paint has held up well. A few chips at door edges (?) and a few spots that are issues from my repairs, even the dent in the lower rear valance's paint held up to getting smacked good by a shop golf cart. :2thumbs:
Have you been driving it. Post new Pics. LEON.
Hey Leon! Yes bunches of work since then also. :2thumbs: It's apart getting a set of aluminum heads right now.
Hello.
I just find out that this is your topic :coolgleamA:
Looking good :icon_smile_cool: You have worked hard!
Hi Toni! :cheers: Yes that is YOUR bumper/grill in these pictures! :lol: For those interested I've been busy since painting. All new harness and instrument cluster/dash redone, 6BBL converted to CH4B and 750 Proform, (For A/C added soon.) New windshield and gasket, New Winters Sidewinder shifter and 727 unmodified back to close to factory rebuild with new 145K Mopar T.C., 11 3/4" disk brake with all new brake lines/hoses, new shocks and UCA's with offset bushings, (Staggered for + castor.) new AMD rear bumper and currently installing aluminum "Sidewinder" heads. I've got everything to rebuild all the seat covers with new foams and padding, front seat backs and new aftermarket (B5Blue) seatbelts after A/C install. :scratchchin: