I was really nervous about tackling the top of my car but bit the bullet and went after it. I used AkCharger's thread as a guide and, I think, it turned out pretty good. At least I'm happy with it.
No need to go into details since many have done good jobs before me. Just some pics to show the result.
Looks great Mitch! :2thumbs:
Great job, looks flawless :2thumbs:
Quote from: Lennard on December 17, 2017, 07:58:43 PM
Great job, looks flawless :2thumbs:
I have to say it was easier than I thought. One little boo-boo but you will never find it and I'll never tell... :nana:
Quote from: green69rt on December 17, 2017, 09:52:23 PM
Quote from: Lennard on December 17, 2017, 07:58:43 PM
Great job, looks flawless :2thumbs:
I have to say it was easier than I thought. One little boo-boo but you will never find it and I'll never tell... :nana:
:icon_smile_big:
Looks great! Congrats!
Great job!
Quote from: green69rt on December 17, 2017, 09:52:23 PM
Quote from: Lennard on December 17, 2017, 07:58:43 PM
Great job, looks flawless :2thumbs:
I have to say it was easier than I thought. One little boo-boo but you will never find it and I'll never tell... :nana:
Was it a small tear away from the top corners of the screen?.....happened twice to me fitting vinyl's.....not on Chargers though! :lol:
:2thumbs: :coolgleamA:
:2thumbs: Great Job. Smooth....
Quote from: alfaitalia on December 18, 2017, 03:15:26 AM
Quote from: green69rt on December 17, 2017, 09:52:23 PM
Quote from: Lennard on December 17, 2017, 07:58:43 PM
Great job, looks flawless :2thumbs:
I have to say it was easier than I thought. One little boo-boo but you will never find it and I'll never tell... :nana:
Was it a small tear away from the top corners of the screen?.....happened twice to me fitting vinyl's.....not on Chargers though! :lol:
When you say screen, that's what we call the windshield and no.
Correct! Screen or windscreen.
Good for you, excellent job. :2thumbs:
Came out great but curious as to the manufacturer of the top? Was it an older repro?
Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on December 18, 2017, 05:10:09 PM
Came out great but curious as to the manufacturer of the top? Was it an older repro?
A Year One piece. Bought about a month ago.
Looks pro to me! :2thumbs:
Nice!!! :2thumbs:
:o :o :o looks great! great job!
I never thought i would say this...
you have me wanting to put one back on my 68 now!!!
yep it looks that good! was it expensive?
Quote from: Harper on December 20, 2017, 11:00:10 PM
:o :o :o looks great! great job!
I never thought i would say this...
you have me wanting to put one back on my 68 now!!!
yep it looks that good! was it expensive?
Got it during one of YO's sales. It was $140.70 including shipping, just looked at the receipt. Got free shipping and 30% off. Hard to beat.
Nice job Mitch :2thumbs:
Wow that looks great, very nice job! The A pillar are much cleaner looking without the seam! I might order the same vinyl top and sell my Legendary top with seam?
Pat
Quote from: keepat on December 22, 2017, 10:01:27 AM
Wow that looks great, very nice job! The A pillar are much cleaner looking without the seam! I might order the same vinyl top and sell my Legendary top with seam?
Pat
Good point! I'm glad some one notices these things!
I had no idea the factory vinyl had a seam that comes right down the a-pillar?
Quote from: keepat on December 22, 2017, 10:01:27 AM
Wow that looks great, very nice job! The A pillar are much cleaner looking without the seam! I might order the same vinyl top and sell my Legendary top with seam?
Pat
What seam? I didn't know there might be one there. Actually, the a-pillar was not bad, the worst part was the place where the a-pillar meets the roof and that funny place in the top of the windshield opening. I worked on that a while. I had to let the adhesive dry some before pushing it down. The vinyl top does stretch some so you can push it into place but the adhesive has to be dry enough to hold it and not let it pop back out. I did each section of the roof and edges and then waited about 15 minutes and pressed it back into place then waited 30 minutes and went over it again. Again after an hour and again after another hour. Finally pressed the last little bubbles in after a few hours, maybe 4. I actually let it dry overnight and hit it again and seems to have made that last little difference. I'll get some pics so you can see how I cut it. Later.
There is a seam at the top of the A pillar ( about 1 1/2" down from the top )where they added the vinyl leg for the A pillar. Its quite unsightly but apparently it's original on 68's and probably 69's, I'll look for a picture if somebody else doesn't post one
Pat
1
I see. It is a little clunky looking. Probably done that way for manufacturing reasons.. :shruggy:
This is the reason why I asked if it were an older repro top. My first top I bought in the late 90's didn't have the A-pillar seam.
My newer Legendary top has the correct seam....
Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on December 23, 2017, 04:11:24 PM
This is the reason why I asked if it were an older repro top. My first top I bought in the late 90's didn't have the A-pillar seam.
My newer Legendary top has the correct seam....
Looks like you need to stay with legendary if you want it correct. I was going to say you could just cut mine and make the seam but it looks like there is a finished edge.
Hey Mitch, could you post a picture of the same area as Just 6T9 CHGR did?
Just a few final notes on what I did.
Pic #1 is the adhesive that I used. I took me three cans. I probably could have used less but I got a little carried away sometimes.
Pic #2 is the corner that mopar4don asked about. On all the corners, I pushed the fabric over the edge and down into the corner before making any relief cuts.
Pic #3 is the tool I used for making sure the fabric was attached to the top and to get all the bubbles out. Just a plastic paint stick. Use the edge and you can get a lot of pressure in a small area. I didn't rake the stick across the fabric, I would put in one place and rock it back and forth to get bubbles and wrinkles out. This was after I used my hands to get the fabric in place and the initial contact.
Pic #4 Use the same stick to force the fabric down in the drip rail groves and to work it into window corners. Notice that the end is rounded off, very nice for pushing on the fabric without tearing it.
Very nice job...as I said I've done a few vinyl roofs on a few UK cars from the 70s for myself and friends. Its a horrible job...even with two blokes its one I try to avoid!! One of a few reasons the only thing on my roof will be paint!
Very nice job. :cheers:
I was polishing and test fitting trim around the windows and found that I don't know how this area should look. Right at the bottom of the A pillar. I need to trim the top a little but where to end. It would be great if someone would post a couple of pictures so I could see how it should look. Here's the area I'm talking about from outside the car and from inside the door opening (my finger is holding the roof top.)
Thanks folks.
Been polishing and fitting all the bright work on the car. Everything seems to fit pretty good except for the bottom corners of the rear window. Those will take some more work. It's all original. Sure looks better with the shiny metal!
NICE!!! :2thumbs:
Thanks.
At first, I started polishing the trim on my table top grinder with a polishing wheel. The first time a piece of trim got away from me and was tore out of my hands, I called it quits on that. I just used my Dremel tool with those little polishing wheels. Worked just fine till I wore the first wheel out and then I found out how much the wheels cost. About $5 a piece. And they get eaten up pretty fast. Looked on line and found someone that sells a similar wheel that fits the Dremel and sells them for $15 for a bag of 100. Guess which I chose. :yesnod:
Quote from: green69rt on December 27, 2017, 05:49:29 PM
I was polishing and test fitting trim around the windows and found that I don't know how this area should look. Right at the bottom of the A pillar. I need to trim the top a little but where to end. It would be great if someone would post a couple of pictures so I could see how it should look. Here's the area I'm talking about from outside the car and from inside the door opening (my finger is holding the roof top.)
Thanks folks.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=95015.0;attach=198795
there is also a wrap around clip that fits in the end of that lower trim & gets screwed to the a pillar area.
Quote from: cdr on March 06, 2018, 05:45:10 PM
there is also a wrap around clip that fits in the end of that lower trim & gets screwed to the a pillar area.
Yeah, I found them but for some reason I have two for the driver side and none for the pass side :shruggy:. I'll probably find the other one after I buy a new one :eek2:
Good job. :2thumbs:
Pic #1 Got the old assemblies out. Lots of nasty tar stuff and what looks like old oil. Well, that all has to come off.
Pic #2 I thought the original chrome was shot and peeling. Took a little time to polish some and all the crappy stuff came off. Still pitted some but it's going back on the car.
Pic #3 The inside of the reflectors had some black particles every where.
Pic #4 Stripped the whole case down and sprayed the outside with satin nickel paint, the inside got Rustoleum Chrome paint. If I was doing it again, I'd try to find a darker paint for the outside but it is what it is.
Pic #5 Lens cleaned up fine with a little glass polish from Griots. Hard to see from the picture but good.
Pic #6 Time to put it back together and a lot of the tabs that hold the chrome to the lens were gone. I didn't try anything fancy, just drilled a 5/32 hole in the metal as close to the back edge as I dared then went on thru the plastic. Then made the hole in the plastic bigger with a 7/32 drill. Used a 10-24x5/16 set screw to keep them together. I used three across the top and three across the bottom but two is probably enough. They don't carry any load, just there to keep the chrome from falling off. Don't try to use the set screw to attach the chrome to the lens (thread the screw thru the plastic), I think it would probably crack the lens. The bigger hole in the plastic lets the set screw "float" inside the hole but keeps the chrome from coming off. Then I used a little seam sealer (because that's what I had) to glue the chrome to the lens and to take up the fitting slack.
Pic #7 Add gaskets and screws and the assembly is ready to install. Oh, the screws the hold the lens to the reflector, I used 3/4 #8 pan head sheet metal screws My old ones were a combination of corroded, missing or some wierd size.
Great job Mitch!
My tabs on the lens are also broke that attaches the chrome trim. I was thinking of epoxying them on, but maybe I will look at screws. Where exactly did you place the screws? When they are installed, can you see the screws?
Quote from: keepat on December 23, 2017, 10:49:40 AM
There is a seam at the top of the A pillar ( about 1 1/2" down from the top )where they added the vinyl leg for the A pillar. Its quite unsightly but apparently it's original on 68's and probably 69's, I'll look for a picture if somebody else doesn't post one
Pat
A pillar seem is present on 68-70 Chargers, that's one of the first things I noticed in the pics, looks really clean without that A pillar seem, and the OP has done an extremely professional install judging from the pics! :2thumbs:
Mike
Quote from: ChargerRT69 on April 05, 2019, 12:01:01 PM
Great job Mitch!
Where exactly did you place the screws? When they are installed, can you see the screws?
I put the screws as far away from the visible edge of the chrome as possible (see picture)and I inserted the screws till they were barely below the surface of the metal. First lens I used three across the top and three across the bottom. After it was done, I thought that was overkill so just installed two each on the second lens. If you do this, be very careful when drilling the holes. The plastic seems to be very brittle. I taped the metal trim to the plastic lens really tightly and then used a small bit to drill a pilot hole through the metal and the plastic, remember don't put a lot of pressure on the drill and support everything from the back with your hand. Then I took it apart and drilled them out to the final diameters as stated above. I set the lens on a thick layer of towel so the tabs were not supporting the weight of the lens plus the force of me drilling. You can see that I am missing one tab to the right of my finger.
Can't see any screws from the outside but (in the picture) there is one hole for each top screw that's visible in the plastic. You can see one in the picture. You have to look up into the lens to see it. If it bothers you, put a little ball of black caulk in it and you couldn't see it at all.
Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 06, 2019, 08:21:11 AM
Quote from: keepat on December 23, 2017, 10:49:40 AM
There is a seam at the top of the A pillar ( about 1 1/2" down from the top )where they added the vinyl leg for the A pillar. Its quite unsightly but apparently it's original on 68's and probably 69's, I'll look for a picture if somebody else doesn't post one
Pat
A pillar seem is present on 68-70 Chargers, that's one of the first things I noticed in the pics, looks really clean without that A pillar seem, and the OP has done an extremely professional install judging from the pics! :2thumbs:
Mike
Thank you, sir.
Quote from: ChargerRT69 on April 05, 2019, 12:01:01 PM
Great job Mitch!
My tabs on the lens are also broke that attaches the chrome trim. I was thinking of epoxying them on, but maybe I will look at screws. Where exactly did you place the screws? When they are installed, can you see the screws?
I got worried that my text wasn't clear on those set screws. Here's a little drawing. The set screw threads into the metal trim but floats free in the hole in the plastic. DON'T use the screw to hold the plastic to the metal, I would expect that that would put stress on the plastic and crack it. The screws are only used to keep the metal from falling off the lens.
Sort of a jamb nut eh ?
Quote from: kent on April 06, 2019, 11:22:19 AM
Sort of a jamb nut eh ?
Yeah. Only a screw. :icon_smile_wink:
Mitch, that is great and you explained it very well! Thanks again for a new approach to an old problem!
And now for the result.
Pic #1 shows the lenses installed. It looks like they are lighted but not so.
Pic #2 show the housing color and how all the screws and nuts look. Nuts came from Hoover auto parts. Screws from Lowes.
Pic #3 shows the lights on, Just two, I need to buy more bulbs.
On to the next job. Going for a biggy!! Headliner!!
Charger looks Awesome!
Mitch, That is looking awesome! I need to get my other life stuff put aside so I can catch up with where you are! LOL! My son just had a sate with a deer, so I have gotten derailed on my until I can help get his car back on the road.
Quote from: ChargerRT69 on May 23, 2019, 01:54:55 PM
Mitch, That is looking awesome! I need to get my other life stuff put aside so I can catch up with where you are! LOL! My son just had a sate with a deer, so I have gotten derailed on my until I can help get his car back on the road.
Mine is going real slow now. Spring time cleanup and yard planting is taking up a lot of time, but I still try to get a couple of hours in once in a while.
Next is the rear window. I'm using all the original outside trim and glass. New repro interior trim.
Pic #1 - Old trim before cleaning etc. Someone probably tried to stop leaks by using caulk all over the place. The caulk was hard when I got with car and pretty useless.
Pic #2 & 3 - One corner piece. I ended up soaking the piece in paint stripper then wrapping it is Saran wrap and letting it set for a couple of hours, that got most of it off.
Pic #4 - This is the installation kit I used. Just Googled it.
Pic #5 - Here it is. Several threads on here on how to do it and that's what I did. Not that hard. One thing I did before adding the trim is that I sprayed water everywhere around the edges and then took my air gun with about 15# of pressure and tested the seal. One corner needed the caulk pushed back in between the window and flange but after that it was really tight.
Pic #6 - So add the trim (test fitted before I did the window) and the package tray and inside trim. All done! (except for cleanup)
Did that seal have a wire running through it?
Quote from: doctor4766 on October 28, 2019, 06:49:08 PM
Did that seal have a wire running through it?
Nope. I had to be very careful not to stretch the tape out and cause the final seal to be thin in that area.
Ta Da!!
Looks great :thumbs:
Thanks, after it sits a few days, I'll spray water and air around and check for leaks. Sure hope I don't find any.
Quote from: green69rt on October 29, 2019, 07:55:48 AM
Quote from: doctor4766 on October 28, 2019, 06:49:08 PM
Did that seal have a wire running through it?
Nope. I had to be very careful not to stretch the tape out and cause the final seal to be thin in that area.
Just to be clear, the stuff I used is a butyl tape, not a rubber seal. It needs some care during installation.
Quote from: green69rt on October 31, 2019, 12:10:55 PM
Quote from: green69rt on October 29, 2019, 07:55:48 AM
Quote from: doctor4766 on October 28, 2019, 06:49:08 PM
Did that seal have a wire running through it?
Nope. I had to be very careful not to stretch the tape out and cause the final seal to be thin in that area.
Just to be clear, the stuff I used is a butyl tape, not a rubber seal. It needs some care during installation.
Yes, I'm familiar with the butyl tape seals from my autoglass days.
We mostly used to use the thermo electric style that you hook up to 12v to "melt" the tape somewhat in order to press the glass into position.
You can sit the car in the sun on a warm day to get the same affect with the style you have used. Half an hour or so should be enough to get the butyl tape tacky enough to bed it in properly.
Quote from: doctor4766 on November 06, 2019, 11:36:41 PM
Quote from: green69rt on October 31, 2019, 12:10:55 PM
Quote from: green69rt on October 29, 2019, 07:55:48 AM
Quote from: doctor4766 on October 28, 2019, 06:49:08 PM
Did that seal have a wire running through it?
Nope. I had to be very careful not to stretch the tape out and cause the final seal to be thin in that area.
Just to be clear, the stuff I used is a butyl tape, not a rubber seal. It needs some care during installation.
Yes, I'm familiar with the butyl tape seals from my autoglass days.
We mostly used to use the thermo electric style that you hook up to 12v to "melt" the tape somewhat in order to press the glass into position.
You can sit the car in the sun on a warm day to get the same affect with the style you have used. Half an hour or so should be enough to get the butyl tape tacky enough to bed it in properly.
I just did it on a hot day, here in Houston. It was VERY tacky and soft when I installed it.