HEY MIKE WHERE CAN I BUY NEW VACUUM ACTUATORS , I DECIDED NOT TO USE ELECTRIC , AFTER FURTHER REVIEW I DECIDED ELECTRIC IS NOT GOING TO BE AS RELIABLE AS VACUUM , IT IS WAY MORE COMPLEX .
www.dayclona.com maybe?
THANK YOU MIKE , I DON'T HAVE THE TIME OR PATIENCE TO GO TO SWAP MEETS , NOW GUYS DON'T SCALD ME BUT I'M GOING TO USE A 68-69 GTO ACTUATORS . I WANT TO USE NEW I DON'T HAVE TIME TO PLAY AROUND .I WILL LET YOU KNOW HOW IT WORKS OUT .
Are the gto pieces available new? For that matter are there any styles available new for any make?
I CAN BUY THEM ALL DAY LONG FOR 160 A PAIR [ NEW] I JUST ORDERED A SET AND A HEADLIGHT SWITCH THAT I WILL TRY TO INCORPORATE THE VACUUM PART OF IT WITH THE CHARGER ROCKER SWITCH . AS I STARED AT MY NOSE I KEEP TELLING MYSELF THEIR HAS TO BE AN EASY ANSWER TO MAKE THIS WORK . I HAVE 25 YEARS OF GTO KNOWLEDGE AND I THINK IT WILL WORK .
QuoteTHANK YOU MIKE
it's Matt, no biggie just better for future reference-MATT ;D
i did a search on ebay and there are none there now. they come up every once and a while. Rene
Larry,
sounds interesting,.........................if out of curiousity for myself and others, if you could possibly post a pic of the pontiac canisters along with a measurement of the actuator's rod travel,.......... in and out?.....................would be appreciated
Thanks Mike G./ DAYCLONA
I bought a nos set on e-bay about five months ago, In the boxes A++++++ nos. Cost me $550.00 for the pair.I won them by .99 cents. I bet that made the other guy mad. :icon_smile_cool: JR.
Sound like a new way to try daytonalo.Is this GTO piece similar to whats used in the vettes.What it looks like to me with the rod shown at the end at 90 degrees.You have to thread the rod with a sleeve adjuster.And attach with clevis a pin
http://www.paddockparts.com/Paddock/productr.asp?pf%5Fid=P126&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D9%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D%2CGTO&1=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D207%26menu%5Fid%3D%26Tree%3D0%2CGTO%20Electrical&2=product%5Ffamily%2Easp%2Cfamily%5Fid%3D8123%26Tree%3D1%2C68%2D69%20GTO%20Headlight%20Actuator%20%26%20Covers&HSLB=False&mscssid=88291A9358674200A6458FE83D378C7B
The corvette vacuum actuator has a staight threaded shaft to begin with
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4621334939&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RSCC_Pr4_PcY_BIN_Stores_IT#ebayphotohosting
WHAT IS THE IN AND OUT ON THE DAYTONA ACTUATORS ?[THE STROKE ] THE GTO ACTUATOR IS MUCH SMALLER AND LOOKS LIKE IT WILL BOLT TO THE BACK OF THE DAYTONA BUCKET , ITS MUCH SMALLER THAN VETTE .
Would something like this be able to work.With adjustable mechanical limit stops
http://www.route66supply.com/store/page26.html
http://www.firgelliauto.com/
What is the actual stroke length needed to lift the headlamps into a full open position?
It looks like the linear actuators would do the trick. Just one would lift both headlamps with some sort of device to link both headlamps together. Looks like it would eliminate both vibration and the problem with vacuum operated headlamps opening on their own. The total cost would be around $150 plus the cost of the mounting setup.
Thats how I see it Hot Rod 98 .I never used one either .But from what I seen and read about they should do the trick.If you could shorten its length to accomadate needed stroke length .Or use a adjustable locking collar secured by set screws or weld.With a attach point affixed.For the linkage to headlight door connection attachment .The headlight degrees should be The 70 charger lights go 90 degress.The daytona ones are less like 45-50 I believe
Might want to hook it up to a remote key fob .Open or close headlight doors from a distance
YOU GUYS ARE OUT IN LEFT FIELD WITH THOSE. FOR STARTERS YOU NEED TO LIMIT THE MOTOR NOT THE RAM ITSELF , BOTH OF YOU ARE COMPLICATING THE SHIT OUT OF IT . THE RAMS THAT YOU POSTED ARE DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH A MOMENTARY SWITCH. THE VACUUM IS BY FAR THE BEST BECAUSE YOU VERY SIMPLY MAKE STOPS ON DOOR AND THE VACUUM ACTUATOR WILL JUST HIT THE STOPS AND YOUR DONE , UNLIKE AN ELECTRIC MOTOR WITHOUT INTERNAL STOP IT WILL BURN ITSELF UP . DAVE I'M LOSING FAITH
i got the idea of using linear actuators about a yr ago after watching pimp my ride, they use alot of them. Rene
JUST TRUST ME , YOULL SEE WHEN YOU COME OVER AND YOU WILL AGREE THAT THE VACUUM IS BY FAR THE EASIEST AND THE MOST TROUBLE FREE WAY TO GO . LARRY
Larry,
Are you talking about using the original vacuum switch? I know they are sometimes undependable when they get old and brittle. How do you keep the lights from creeping up sometimes. I've seen the pics where they were doing that when they were still new and sitting in the storage lot at the plant. A guy here has a real bird and his lights bounce at night when he goes over rough spots in the road. Will good vacuum pods eliminate that? So many questions...
The best thing might be to let you finish yours and then just copy you... ;D
Quote from: hotrod98 on March 16, 2006, 12:48:34 PM
Larry,
Are you talking about using the original vacuum switch? I know they are sometimes undependable when they get old and brittle. How do you keep the lights from creeping up sometimes. I've seen the pics where they were doing that when they were still new and sitting in the storage lot at the plant. A guy here has a real bird and his lights bounce at night when he goes over rough spots in the road. Will good vacuum pods eliminate that? So many questions...
The best thing might be to let you finish yours and then just copy you... ;D
I run my Bird with the springs backed off. There is enough vacuum to hold the lights up nice and strong. Figure that if there is enough vacuum to pull and hold the lights down against the force of the springs, there is enough to hold them up as well.
doesn't the lights creeping make it more original? my charger has a complete working hide away light system. so its to my advantage to use all the original components
The vacuum down sides are daytonalo the headlight switch is needed from 68-69 charger .Second you need to put hole in the firewall for all the vacuum lines.If your engine doesnt produce a strong enough vacuum.You might need a second vacuum reservior can.And you need to have a flat actuator plate to connnect whatever actuator your using to the existing headlight bucket.And somekind of bracket installed on the backside of your fiberglass or metal headlight pivot brackets to connect the actuator to .Then you need mechanical limiting stops.To keep backedge of headlight door from digging into the fiberglass nose cone. I thought those linear rams were stationary and went up and down like a car power antenna.
DAVE, DAVE, DAVE YOU KNOW ME BETTER THAN THAT , YOU KNOW I ALREADY HAVE UP AND DOWN LIMIT STOPS ON MY DOORS . I WILL INTERFACE THE GTO VACUUM SWITCH WITH THE STOCK CHARGER ROCKER SWITCH, WORST CASE SCENARIO IS THAT I HAVE A VERY SMALL SWITCH JUST LIKE OLDER CORVETTES DO. AT LEAST WITH VACUUM ACTUATORS IT WILL BE CLOSE TO ORIGANAL UNLIKE THAT SCREW JACK THAT LIKE LIKE IT BELONGS ON THE SPACE SHUTTLE LANDING GEAR DOOR ! AND BESIDES THERE IS NO INTERNAL STOPS , IT STOPS WHEN YOU TAKE POWER AWAY FROM IT , SO LETS SAY YOU FLIP THE ROCKER SWITCH ON GREAT YOUR LIGHTS WORK AND THE DOOR GOES'S UP BUT HOW DO YOU INTEND TO TAKE POWER FROM THE RAM AND NOT THE HEADLIGHTS ? . DAVE YOU HAVE SEEN WHAT I DO OVER HERE AND YOU WILL AGREE IT'S BY FAR [VACUUM] IS THE WAY TO GO ! ONE MORE THING , THE D.O.T MANDATED THAT ALL CARS WITH HIDDEN HEADLIGHTS DOORS HAVE A SPRING TO PULL OPEN DOORS IF THERE WAS A VACUUM FAILURE