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MSD 7 box install with pics

Started by mikepmcs, July 09, 2006, 04:44:38 PM

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mikepmcs

Ok here i go, i'm gonna attempt this install.  I've been looking at my current setup and i've got the orange box, pointless dist(magnetic, i guess).  old normal coil and accel wires.
my goal is the new msd7 al-2, 8251 super duper pooper scooper coil, msd comp wires.
Wiring the thing isn't the big deal, it's what the heck do i need to disconnect from the current setup.  PO used all sorts of different wires and such., LOL.  I am posting pics and will throughout the install when i get to it.

If anyone has this setup currently in their car( i know dodge freak does for sure) and has or would like to take pictures for me and post em, i'd be grateful.  If not i'm gonna take pics as i go and provide lessons learned along the way.
v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

mikepmcs

more pics of before
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

mikepmcs

more
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

dodge freak

Yes coil goes to C+ and C- and the magantic pick leads from the dist. goes to M+ and M- . Boy I wish I had a camera also, but I am using all my extra cash at the gas pumps. Thats the same thing I did , battery drivers side , box passager side. Now I had a MSD 6 a before and I left it on for a back up, but its neater without and its never left me cold, a plug wire went out once but it still ran. Don't forgot MSD tech, they are open tomorrow, they can explain better that me. I think you find 12  volts key on by the bal. resistor. ONE thing set your timing before hand, once you get it going some timing lights don't work right -MSD sells their own or I switch coils to the stock one and then timing light works. Not sure what type you have, if its a nice one it might work. MSD says to check timing afterwards but I never see it change.

dodge freak

All you have to remove is the 12 volt key on only wire. Its up to you if you want to leave all the old stuff on. I leave my MSD 6 on and just unplug the dist. plug and remove the heavy battery wires. The coil wire can stay on the old coil. Its too easy, thats what wrong. Too bad I live in Michigan I love to help out and show you my set up. Maybe I get a camera but its going to be to late for you. Call Summit too they all can help you, its not that bad, just looks that way at first. I know you can't wait to get it to work, thats why mines not in the trunk like I should have did it.

mikepmcs

here's some pics of the uninstall and cleaning up the bay a little.  what a hack job on the wiring in this thing, getting all better though, little by little.
the pic of the blue wire will be my red12v hookup when ignition is on.  it was originally hooked to the old coil pos side.  green wire will be the tach feed, the one with just the wires on the fender cover is about half of what i repaired this morning.  taking a break to update and get psyched up for the install.
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

mikepmcs

more pics
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

dodge freak

You can get rid of that blas. resistor too. I like to solder my wires , then tape them. Those "super stock " wires are poor-just the 300's are good from accel, but I do use accel cap and rotor-its brass.  Hope you got super on the plug wires but the other msd is good but for $20 more, well with that box it work fine. Thats why its nice to have a 7 unit over the 6 . Hey , over the weekend I put in new plugs just cause its been 1 year scine I changed them when I put my 7 unit on-They were all clean, the gap open up to .045 from .038 but every one was clean , used to have a few that were a little brown or black but not any more. I am still so happy with that box. I have a small block and I use accel u-groove plugs non-resister 115's the 383 takes a different one but I would get non - restiter plug's when ever you change them. I would think the old ones will clean up after 1 or 2 tanks of gas.

Mefirst

Just as dodgefreak posted those Accel wires are crap.. -You have a sweet ign. setup so why use crappy el´chepo sparkplugwires??

Like dodgefreak stated you have to solder the two ign. wires together, the "start" and "run" wire. That way you will bypass the ballast resistor, you don't need it with the MSD ign. box...

1: Solder together the BROWN and the BLUE wire that come from the Ign. key/lock. You also need to attach the SMALL red"wake-up" wire from the MSD box into this splice.

2. From this wire splice one wire has to continue into the Voltage Regulator, to the "I" side. This wire is the BLUE in the stock setup. The wire that runs between the Alternator to the Voltage Regulator ONLY connects the FLD Alternator prong to the "FLD" side on the Voltage Regulator, this wire does not continue anywhere else.

3. Other than that its not difficult to wire the rest. The MSD power wires (+ and -) will go directly to the battery. Then hook up the coil and distributor wires...

Some Pix...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a225/Gimmegimmies/Engine/P1010032.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a225/Gimmegimmies/Engine/P1010033.jpg

This pic shows the version of the Ign. setup when I used the 7AL box...

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a225/Gimmegimmies/Engine/P1010002.jpg

/Tom


dodge freak

Wow thats right the start and run wires should both be hook up or it would not run until you stop cranking. I have a hidden push butten switch so I just turn the key on and reach down to crank it over. Motor won't crank with the key, just goes click click like the battery is dead, that way if I forgot my keys or somebody trys to start it they think the battery is dead, ha ha. Had it that way for over 5 years now, forgot all about how most people start their ride.

Mefirst

dodgefreak**

There is an even "easier" way to make a theft preventer. Hook up a ON/OFF switch to the little RED "wake-up" wire. With the switch OFF, the engine will crank, but there wont be any spark...

/Tom


mikepmcs

i have msd super comps coming(8.5's recommended for this setup)

ok i'm halfway through the install and i'm reading ME's post above and you are telling me the two wires into the ballast need to be soldered together and the red ignition wire from the box needs to be tapped into this setup, is that correct.  I'll just connect them right at the ballast resister right(clip the ends and put em together as I understand it. let me know if i'm on the right track.  

thanks, you guys are awesome!!! :icon_smile_big:

ok, one more question.... the blue wire on the voltage regulator is a little confusing cause everything was painted orange by the previous owner.(don't ask me why)  I'm including a picture of what i believe to be the voltage regulator.  if you could tell me where to connect this blue wire that would be great.

i guess i could take the rest of the electrical tape off to see the colors and that would make it easier ???

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Mefirst

Quote from: mikepmcs on July 10, 2006, 03:22:53 PM
i have msd super comps coming(8.5's recommended for this setup)

ok i'm halfway through the install and i'm reading ME's post above and you are telling me the two wires into the ballast need to be soldered together and the red ignition wire from the box needs to be tapped into this setup, is that correct. I'll just connect them right at the ballast resister right(clip the ends and put em together as I understand it. let me know if i'm on the right track.
thankjs, you guys are awesome!!! :icon_smile_big:
v/r
Mike

Mike*** Loose the ballast resister al together, you DON´T need it with this setup. Just remeber to let a wire run to the Voltage Regulator "I" side from that splice...

/Tom


Mefirst

Hold on Mike.. Ill draw you a picture of this whole wireing setup and post it... Give me a cupple of minutes...

/Tom


mikepmcs

ok i'm going back out to investigate.  i'm gonna post picks of ballast and VR just to 100% be positive of their identification.  I know the ballast is a ceramic block, it's just the VR i want to make sure of.
I remember, or thought they did anyway,  VR's used to look like or be in the shape of my old orange box in the above pic.  that's why i'm asking.

thanks for your patience and responses.

actually i just looked up above and the last pic i posted has the ballast and what i believe to be the VR to the right of it(it's orange), right past my ground strap, is this correct?

v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

dodge freak

You can ground the PCT and there be no spark until its not grounded anymore , I have a switch in my trunk. The way I have it even if I forgot my keys or somebody steals them and I did not flip the ground switch in my trunk , most people would think the battery is dead and hopefully give up. On the 6 unit its the white wire if you are not using points. Yes Mike you are right on-sorry about that.

dodge freak

The VR not sure, somebody painted that, I have a Mopar unit that looks a little different , I am not sure about 69 's , I was 5 years old .

mikepmcs

ok went and took some quick pics of where i'm at so far(please no comment on the location of the box, it's the only place i could put it in the engine bay and it should have plenty of air flow IMHO)

ok on the ballast pic there are two wires coming out on the right(as you are looking at it) Whta's up with that??
the red wire in the one pic(closest to the camera) is what i connected my original blue wire up to in the previous pics way above(lone blue wire pic).  this wire had 0v car off and12v car turned on, originally hooked up to the coil(thought that would work)???
v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Mefirst



Mefirst

Hmm, that Voltage Regulator looks weird..

But no worries... Look and follow the wires where they go. One of the wires from the Voltage regulator will/should ONLY go between the Regulator and the Alternator FLD, leave that wire alone. Use the wire that continues from the Regulator to the Ballast Resistor, thats your BLUE wire..

/Tom


Mefirst

-Damn! I forgot, your ride is a 69, not a 70.. So there might be some difference in the wiring??? I don't have a 69 electrical wiring diagram, so sadly I cant help you there...

Also the wires that go out from the Voltage Reg. look like a rats nest.. Seems like you have the fun to try and figure out the previous owners wiring handywork, just like I had to... -Good Luck Buddy!!!

But al in al the drawing I posted is the correct way to wire an MSD Ign. system in al Mopars...

/Tom


mikepmcs

drawing is done very well!  I can follow that, no problem. :boogie: I will study it then go investigate and start stripping old tape off. 
thanks so much.
v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

Mefirst

MIKE!!! I forgot to write in the "Litte RED" wire.. check the Picture link again!!!!

-ALSO the MSD Main Power wire negative doesnt have to be hooked to the battery neg. You can just hook it to a good ground.. I hooked it to the engine block..

/Tom


mikepmcs

ok, i got a pic of what i've done.  In my electrical mind, this should work.   the red(kick wire) is already tapped to the blue wire as stated above.  so what i did was cut 3 wires on the ballast(black, blue and brown(( those were already together)))  connected the brown and blue to the black, and i should be all set right.  ballast resistor is gone now.
take a look.  remember the red wire is already tapped to that same blue wire a little farther up the pipe( reference earlier pics)
thanks again
v/r
Mike
Life isn't Father Knows Best anymore, it's a kick in the face on a saturday night with a steel toed grip kodiak work boot and a trip to the hospital all bloodied and bashed.....for reconstructive surgery. But, what doesn't kill us, makes us stronger, right?

dodge freak

Its a good idea to hook the ground right to the battery ,MSD told me the 7 box is picky on the ground wire and a poor ground can cause all sorts of problems.  Yeah the 69 is new to me- MSD might know , if you can call them-very helpful guys , they go though this everyday with callers.