DodgeCharger.com Forum

Mopar Garage => Paint, Body & Trim => Topic started by: cudaken on October 23, 2005, 04:47:30 PM

Title: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on October 23, 2005, 04:47:30 PM
 I am doing a 69 AMX and I must say nice car. You guy's will get sick when I show how little rust this thing has on it. Body work is body work and want to take as many PIC that I can to help you guys with your cars.

Little back ground on the AMX first. Eric had stipped the AMX to bare steel and used a expoxied primer on the AMX. Primer has not been sanded yet and is rough to the touch. He is the shop teacher at high school and does not run, gas tank is out. AMX was stored at the school as well. Car has sat under other car's that was on lifts at night and few of them had some oil leaks that dripped on the AMX plus oily hand prints from pushing the AMX around. I will add one of the reason I was not ready for her yet, was in the middle of tear down a 440. Did not want rags with oil that might get used by accident on the car. Not counting my oily mitts.

First step was to get her clean. If there is oil on primer or paint you cannot sand the car. It will just drive the oil deeper in to the surfaces. On paint, just wipe it down good with Prep cleaner. But primer is a harder, it is proses and soaks in to the primer. First I used hand cleaner where the oil was standing on the body. Then I used 2 gallons of hot water, 2 tables spoons of dish soap and a gallon of bleech. I washed the AMX 2 times and washed off. More stubborn hand prints I used a SOS pad's with the bleech and soap till they where gone. Keep washing till the water does not bead when you rinses of the car. Total I went around the AMX 4 times but she is clean now.

Next step is to find the bad spots. Primer hides a lot of small flaws and are hard to see. Larger dents and rust is a no brainer. Devil is in the details and that is what I will be looking for next. This to be a street peeler not a full tilt boogie but will be a good looking Car when done. I will use a black guide coat over the primer that is on the AMX and stick sand to find the bad spots.

Few PIC for now.

                                                 Cuda Ken

 
Title: Re: AMX Body Work, Hope you guys don't mind.
Post by: cudaken on October 23, 2005, 08:27:12 PM
 I took PIC of the right side in guide coat but for some reason they would not show up? Might have something to do with my brother in law taking the PIC's.

Anyway a few PIC that did turn out. First some tools of the trade.

Gloves, you would not believe how fast your fingers wil start to bleed from stick sanding. 1500 grit is the worst after paint. You dont know your finguers are bleeding till you see it in the water. ;D

Paint stick with paper wrapped around it. First make sure your paint stick is flat, cheap ones will not be. I used 220 wet dry paper to cut sort of fast. If it was a all out boogie I would used 150 air file (will see that later) but the AMX will not be blocked 3 times.

Memory Block, so far the best thing I have found for contours. I use it for rounded areas like the top of 68-70 Charger doors. In this case, top of the AMX fenders.

Squeegie, I used it to wipe the water off so I can see what I have done. Water wil hide alot of details.

                                  Cuda Ken
Title: Re: AMX Body Work, Hope you guys don't mind.
Post by: cudaken on October 23, 2005, 08:37:24 PM
 Body lines can be a pain in the a-s. God knows I paid my dues on my 69 Charger and wil get more detail when the time comes on the AMX. Body lines are pretty much the same, very long and all the way down the side of the body.

In the PIC I am starting to find dings in the body line. Using a stick but a 6" block will work as well. I sand with the line from front to back. You will see there is only about 2" of the paper on the line.

Black spots are low spots showen by the black Guide Coat. Most are real minor but at this point it sort of the feel of the hand.
Title: Re: AMX Body Work, Hope you guys don't mind.
Post by: cudaken on October 23, 2005, 08:55:38 PM
 On using a paint stick must be a semi flat surfaces like the PIC of the AMX quarter panel or the doors. Onces again you need to stay off contours and body lines. Stick will make then shallow if use the wrong way.

Paint stick being flat will cut a line in a contour. You wil see the black guide coat is pretty much un touched in contours of this PIC. I all use a cross hatch sanding pattern much like a cross hatch in a cylinder. Keeps the scrathes from being so deep.

                         
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: Roth68rt on October 23, 2005, 10:58:59 PM
keep the pictures and descriptions coming cudaken, maybe someday I will actually be ready to use this valuable information.
Thanks, Steve
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: firefighter3931 on October 24, 2005, 01:47:23 PM
Excellent....thanks for posting Ken ! I'm learning some valuable tips here   :2thumbs:

Ron
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: Blown70 on October 24, 2005, 03:55:59 PM
I too will keep an eye on this thread.  I hate seeing some of the poor jobs on chargers that almost lose the centerline. :rotz:

I plan to to a lot of my own work on my 70  Esp. once I put a new lid on her.

Thanks KEN :yesnod:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 24, 2005, 08:14:43 PM
Quote from: cudaken on October 23, 2005, 08:37:24 PM
  In the PIC I am starting to find dings in the body line. Using a stick but a 6" block will work as well. I sand with the line from front to back. You will see there is only about 2" of the paper on the line.

I want to make a correction on that part. Doing what I was doing in the PIC is only to ture up the line only. If that is the only way you block the body line the paper will cut a straight line above and below the line. When working the line keep the stick or block horizontal with the line and let the block go maybe a 1/4 to 1/2 inch over the line but still flat aginst the part you are blocking.

Blowen 70, will post some PIC later when I did my Charger. The AMX will not need the work that a Charger will. Its is pretty good now.

Ron, I rather get dusty than oily. ;D

OK, one of the tools I did not show and everyone has is a simple rubber hose. One I was useing was pices of a old air line about 3" long. What ever grit you are using just rap it arond the hose and start sanding. Only thing I found that will fit in the scscallops of a 68-70 Charger door.

In the next few PIC I was using it on the fender wheel well and top of the door. Was to tight for the Memory Block to fit in.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 24, 2005, 08:22:45 PM
 For what ever reason I can not get the PIC to post. Guess I will need to waite till Troy get if sorted out.

                                    Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 24, 2005, 08:30:08 PM
 Well no PIC tonight for what ever reason. To bad had 9 I wanted to post.

                       Cuda Ken, Blocking again
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 24, 2005, 10:03:18 PM
 A nother try, belch ;D About 2 hours later.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 25, 2005, 08:22:05 AM
 You can use any sizes hose, try to find one that is close to the contours you are working. Make sure there is no oil on the hose, I normaly buy new ones.

Here is the PIC of the upper part of the door. I was going from top to bottom. Want to stay with the flow of the body contour.

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 25, 2005, 08:27:47 AM
 Here is a PIC of the Right door after blocking. Guide coat is showing the small dents you could not see with it being in primer. Small round ones are very minior. 3 coats of high fill primer and re block will take care of them. One that is marked with tape will need some filler.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 25, 2005, 08:36:18 AM
 Here are some PIC of the Roof. First will show it is black guide coat. You do not need to paint the panel black, just a black mist across the roof. In the block PIC ones again you can see small dents that did not show up. In the sail panel you can really see the low spots.


                            Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: 41husk on October 25, 2005, 02:38:31 PM
looking good ken, keep up the good work!
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 26, 2005, 05:08:29 PM
 One thing I want to talk about briefly is why people want to strip there cars to bare metal. There are times you need times you don't. Below are the reasons to strip.

1 Paint is bad, cracked, crazing (Pin holes) or peeling

2 Paint is just to thick, 3 or more paint paint jobs.

You have seen me using guide coat to find bad spots. Will use a high fill primer for the small dents. But if your car paint is good you can use the paint that is on the car to fill the small shallow dents showing up with the guide coat.

PIC of my 69 Charger the last time I did it. I used a air file with 150 grit to level out the body. I saved probley 3/4 of a gallon of primer doing this.

                                              Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 26, 2005, 05:21:53 PM
 One thing I want to talk about a little, why do people want to strip there cars to bare metal? I only strip when there is a reason.

1 Paint is bad, rather it be Cracking, Crazing (small pin holes) or peeling.

2 Paint is just to thick, 3 or more paint jobs.

If the paint is good you can use the old paint to fill shallow dents like what are showing up in the guide coat. I used 150 grit on my air file to level out the panels. Save times and cost of materials.

Here is a PIC of my 69 Charger the last time I did it. You can see the hight and low spots that are come out just like with the guide coat.

                                                  Cuda Ken

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 26, 2005, 05:37:06 PM
 OK, looks like something goofie just happened ;D

Hood is now blocked, found some old filler in the front. I knew I was going to find something did not look right in primer.

Then I found what I call a outie. It is a dent that went from the in side out and sticks up. I used what is either called a dinging hammer or a pick hammer. When working a dent from either from the out side in, or in side out you want to use lite hits that tap the dent down a little at a time. One big hit can cause more damage. I used about 15 hits to lower the outie on the hood. It is the PIc with the hammer.
It will need some filler to repair, primer will not cover it.

Next PIC of the hood is a nasty little dent in the back, it could be seen in primer. It will be ground down to bare metal, some filler, then a K 2 Primer (I call it spary on bondo) then a high filler primer.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 26, 2005, 05:44:12 PM
 Last PIC for a few day, till I start using filler there will not be anything to show. Only thing left to block is the left door and left quater.

Left front fender, you should be able to see the shallow dents toward the front and one nasty little dent on the center body line. Nothing to show on the trunk that I have not all ready showed.

                                     Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 26, 2005, 05:45:05 PM
 Last PIC for a few day, till I start using filler there will not be anything to show. Only thing left to block is the left door and left quater.

Left front fender, you should be able to see the shallow dents toward the front and one nasty little dent on the center body line. Nothing to show on the trunk that I have not all ready showed.

                                     Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 26, 2005, 05:54:19 PM
 Last PIC for a while till I start to use filler. Only thing left is a door and quater to block.

                                                 Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 26, 2005, 06:39:14 PM
Its not my fault keep getting time outs, refresh, time out, refresh and time out!

                               Cuda Ken, Cuda Ken, Cuda Ken, Cuda Ken ;D
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: moparguy01 on October 26, 2005, 09:23:47 PM
Whats with the michael jackson look in those early pics? hahaha
good tips btw. also, maybe if you quite drinking so much you wouldnt get the hiccups. :icon_smile_big:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: 41husk on October 27, 2005, 07:27:51 AM
that last post ought to boost your post count :icon_smile_cool:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 27, 2005, 08:24:42 AM
 Moparguy01 and 41 Husk, seems like around 6:00 PM is a bad time to post. Like I said I keept getting either time out or web site not responding. What I did not know was the site was going to post all of the try's?

                                  Cuda Ken
                         
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: 41husk on October 28, 2005, 09:04:27 AM
    Ken this is Eric the progress looks good call me and we can talk about supplies  :icon_smile:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 30, 2005, 04:26:02 PM
 Every think has been blocked one time. Not it is time to show a few more tools. First one is a Air File and there are two kinds and I have both.

In Line Air File and Vibrating Air File.

One in the PIC is a Vibrating Air File. After I used one to qoute Wil Smith from 4th of July "I got to get me one of this"! ;D It is the sizes of a normal air file but Vibrates like a jitter bug. Give me some 320 Air file paper and I can make anything straight. Reason I like it better than a In Line is it does not leave deep scrathes that need to be filled with primer to make feel smooth. In Line does cut faster but I also tened to cut off to much filler so I rather do it slower.

  I will ad finding one is tuff, most counter people will give you funny look when you ask for one. Would need a good air supply to keep up with it. Your A/C has wheels, for get it. ;) 3 HP with a 60 Gallon tank will work, I have a 5 HP with 80 gallon tank.

Thing in front of it is a Dolly, I forget the exact name of this one but as you can see it has a curve to it. Been 26 years sence I went to Voteck school. I used this one to help get some of the curves back where they belonged, that and the Pick Hammer I showed above.



Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 30, 2005, 04:41:25 PM
 Left Quater, or for now on listed as LQ is the worst part of the AMX. Eric said it was a old repair that he uncoverd when he stripped the AMX. Wish I could have seen it in paint first, but by hand I did not like the way the dent was worked.

Will not show well in the PIC, upper body like was still sunk in and conture pushed up. I used a heal dolly and the other one I did show to work the metal. Sorry I have no PIC doing this, but bother in law took of on me. Also the LQ had a extra body line like a Charger at the bottom. That would have beeb fine if it was a Charger. ;D I used the round Dolly in the PIC on the inside of the trunk and worked the Pick hammer to sink th unwanted body line. Remember, soft fast taps.

Also ground to bare metal as well. You should never stick a body filler over paint or primer as a rule of thumb. Little bite you can slide on, say 3/4" to 1" but still best not to.

One thing most new people do is they try to reapir to small of a area. If you look at the fiist PIC then the second one you will see I took to bare metal farther then where you can see the dent.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 30, 2005, 04:54:39 PM
 That last PIC showed the body line that should not be there pretty well. Filler is from one of Eric students try to help.

OK, the only part I hate about body work, spreading mud. Sanding, blocking etc not a problem. Just don't like spreading the stuff.

I used a 6" spreader on a dent this sizes, in fact the only sizes I buy. If I need a smaller one I just cut a bigger one down then I have 2 to 3 of them. ;) Better you get at it the lest work you will need to make it straight. Tim, a bodyman that worked for me got it down to a art form.

I used a new can of Everycoat Z-grip but was still a little thicker than normal. One tip is to use some lacquer thinner to thin filler out a little. But I did not have any and used what I had.

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on October 30, 2005, 05:04:43 PM
 This is after I used the Air File. Still in first coat of filler, next I will do another skim coat (means lite coat) and air file a gain.

Old trick I use to use and will again if I can find a red harder for the filler. Use blue and red harder to make the driffrent layers of filler driffrent colors. Help's find high and low spots much like guide coat.

                                Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on November 05, 2005, 09:15:39 AM
 I got the skim coat on the quater. Hit with the air file again still using 80 grite paper. Looks a little closer now. There looks to be a low spot in the center but it is a illusion. Now that I am half way close I sparyed some more guide coat on it and will work by hand with a long boy. Sorry but I forgot to take a PIC of it.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on November 05, 2005, 09:21:10 AM
 Next PIC is of a nother tool called a Pull Rod. They are used on small dents such as the one in the fender I am getting ready to show. You drill a hole in the area to be pull, pull on the dent with the rods and work the area around the dent to get the metal back into shape.

Turns out I did not need them on the dent, but I thought I go ahead and post the PIC's
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on November 05, 2005, 09:30:30 AM
 Next PIC will be of the hood and fender dents. As I said be fore most people try to fix to small of a area. Both spots had been repaired before but when the AMX was stripped most of the filler was removed. What you see is the impact point and what would look like to most people the whole dent.

If you look at the area I ground down, that is the aera that will need to have filler applied


Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: cudaken on November 05, 2005, 09:38:56 AM
 Boy the filler is ruff. I was trying to take PIC and spread filler at the same time and it was setting up. Remember, the smoother you get the filler the less work you will have.

Dent is the filler is pretty small so I am using a DA to ruff it in. As you can see the dent is in the center of a bodyline. I let about 2" of the pad go over the body line while holding it flat aginst the part I was working. PIC should explain what I am trying to say.


                          Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 07, 2005, 05:31:26 PM
 Lets talk about a few more tools I used today.

On the top is a in line air file. I talked about this on the first page. It moves back and forth and cuts faster than the oscillating air file. Reason I used it today? I am cheap, other one has a fresh pices of paper on it and did not want to waste it. ;D

Center is a 3" Rubber Block. Most people will have seen this and is nothing fancy. I use it to work small dents or small area's of a larger repair like the Left Quarter.

Bottom is what I call a Long Boy. Most are made of wood, this one is plactic. I use this when I am close to having the area the way I want it for 2 reasons.
   1 When close it is easy to go to far when using a air tool.
   2 When you are close, how it feels while you are sanding comes in to play. Air tools, you cannot feel the panel.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 07, 2005, 05:37:34 PM
 Got back on the LQ today. Last PIC showed it in guide coat. I used the In Line Air file with 80 grit for this next PIC. If you look at the rear you will see it stayed black, a low spot.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 07, 2005, 05:48:38 PM
 On that last PIC you will see I started to work the dent that was on top of the body line.

Over all the filler was where I wanted it but there where still spots that need to be addressed. Used a 3" spreader and went after them.

With great care I used the DA to cut down the new filler but stayed out of the filler that was right. Just knocked down the peaks. Then I used the rubber block with 120 grit to bring it to the same level as the other filler. Next I used the oscillating air file with 150 grit.

Remember the rubber hose? I used that to work the upper part of the bodyline with 80, 120 and 150 grit paper.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 07, 2005, 05:54:12 PM
 Starting to look like something in that last PIC.

Next I used the Long Boy and felt the panel while I saned it. Felt pretty close to where it should be. Ran it across the top line on the edge maybe 5 passes to level it out just a little.

Quarter is now ready for some high fill primer.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 07, 2005, 06:10:59 PM
 Couple of more tips,

Work more than one spot. I did not post about all the areas I worked today but if you look at the PIC you will see I was working the left door and what you dont see I was working hood RQ, RD and RFF. You also kind of do it in shifts. Spread your filler lets say on the LFF, LD and LQ. While that filler is drying you spread filler on the RD, RFF and RQ. While that is drying you work the pther parts that have sat up. If you are a Bodyman, if you only work one spot or in fact 1 car you will go broke.

Have all areas that need filler ready for filler! Most people inc my self never mix just the filler that is need. Alwise seems there is just a little left, why waste it?

On the LFF, it is close to primer as well. I also worked it with the rubber block. Found a nother little spot right behind the main dent and another one 12 O Clock high.



Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 07, 2005, 06:18:47 PM
 Last PIS's are just a reinforcment about the fact most people fix to small of a area. PIC's are of the hood dent in the rear.

Note I used Masking paper to keep filler off the cowling. Hood is now ready to be worked with the rubber block.

                                   Cuda Ken, sanding again.

PS, if you guys are looking, just take the time to say high, K--k you or what the hell do you think you are doing D-mb F--k. :devil: I type slow and took me over a hour just to post what I just did. Alos feel free to ask questions as well.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Roth68rt on November 07, 2005, 10:36:31 PM
Cudaken, this is the best class I have ever attended.  I learn something on every post.  Thank-you and keep it coming, I want to see that AMX in paint.   

Steve
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 69bananabeast on November 08, 2005, 02:01:41 AM
you should make a CudaKen's  Auto Body for Dummies book  :yesnod:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 08, 2005, 08:18:08 AM
Looks good ken, I can help you out with the primer since I will also need primer give me a call!
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 08, 2005, 09:58:38 AM
Quote from: 69bananabeast on November 08, 2005, 02:01:41 AM
you should make a CudaKen's   Auto Body for Dummies book   :yesnod:

Nic, I think I am ;)

Steve, so do I.

Allen, I have primer but it not the yellow high fill primer I want to use on your Challanger. Ask Eric to call me as well. Need to speak with him about sheet metal and need some cash so I can pick up the air nibbler so I can cut the sheet metal for the floor.

             Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 08, 2005, 01:31:20 PM
I will let him know.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Charger_Fan on November 08, 2005, 04:42:21 PM
Sure is looking great, Ken. Today is the first time I've checked this thread...I'm definitely gonna be checking back!  :yesnod:


Hey, do we need to start up a "get Ken some new pants fund"? Or are those your lucky pants & you're afraid to wash or replace them? :icon_smile_big:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 08, 2005, 05:20:29 PM
 Charger Fan, you should know by now I don't throw any thing a way. Them there pants have Mopar Mud on them ;D

Good thing you have not seen the back side :icon_smile_big:

Glad you enjoyed the posting.

                               Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 09, 2005, 08:10:08 AM
Ken, Is that Hemi bondo? :o :icon_smile_big: :icon_smile_cool:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 09, 2005, 11:28:32 AM
 Well Allen, funny you broght that up ;D They are the work pants I wore when I did the Hemi Charger :icon_smile_approve:


                           Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 09, 2005, 11:49:35 AM
put those holy muthers on ebay, all your financial problems are over :yesnod:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 09, 2005, 06:10:39 PM
 Once againg reinforcment of working a dent to little. Left Front Fender again. Thought I was close, but when I blocked a little more found yeat another dent farer back.

Little trick on body lines. Use tape on either the top or bottom of the line you are trying to make. Spread your filler and pull off before the filler set up all the way. That will help make a crisper line. I forgot to take the PIC before I pulled off the tape and paper. So I used a clean pices for the PIC.

To make the line or should I say filler deeper you can use more than one pices of tape on top of each other. On my Charger I use double sided tape, about 1/8" thick, saved time and did not need to worry about the layers of tape over lapping.

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 09, 2005, 06:30:29 PM
 Time for a nother Cuda Ken tip. When you are spreading filler a round areas like marker lights some filler will get where you don't want it. You can maske it, but if the filler sets to long will leve ragged edge. What I do, is use a drill and cut the filler out. You don't press down at all, just let the bite tip touch the metal. Use the side of the bite to cut the filler and ride the edge of the metal out line of the marker.

In the last PIC, you will see sonme filler left, pooped that out with a screw driver. Then use some 120 grit to clean up.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 09, 2005, 06:46:09 PM
 Next is a driffrent kind of filler. Slang used is icing like what is used on a cake if I spelled it wrong. Icing is a cross of body filler and primer. You mix like a normal filler but is very runnie. Little hard to work with due to that fact but is the reason it works well. It will flow out more than a normal filler and is great for small defeacts or shallow low spots. It also can be spread over primer or bare metal. I normaly use it over primer. It is also easyer to sand than normal filler, I use 120 then 220 and then primer.

In the hood PIC, of the right side I used no filler, just the icing.

On the door, could barely feel a low spot on the body line. I

I use Evercoat Metal Glazes 100414, there are others but I have yet to use them.

                                                          Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: AirborneSilva on November 09, 2005, 11:48:14 PM
Damn Ken, the mods really need to make your how to threads stickies.  Great info your putting out  ;)
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 10, 2005, 10:46:14 AM
 I am going to ask Troy about doing that. I would hate to see it buryed 6 pages back after I am done with the AMX.

                                         Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 10, 2005, 12:20:06 PM
I think between Ken and drop top we have one of the best sources for paint and body help on the net :yesnod:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: dodgecharger-fan on November 10, 2005, 02:15:14 PM
Absolutely! These threads are fantastic.

and this is the kind of work that I'm doing on my car right now..
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Charger_Fan on November 10, 2005, 02:36:14 PM
 :iagree:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 10, 2005, 06:52:26 PM
 Thank you guys again, but give Drop Top his dues as well. I am not that good of a bodyman, I just keep at it till it is right. I do know when it is right, just takes me longer than a good Bodyman would. Remember the old saying, people that can do, ones that can't teach ;D 41 Husk, nothing to do with you. :icon_smile_big:

Sure old Drop Top could teach me some tricks, kind of wish he would chime in as well. Only time you cannot learn is either reading my spelling or someone is throwing dirt on your faces. ;D

                            Cuda Ken, and you guys think I know something :icon_smile_big:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: AirborneSilva on November 10, 2005, 07:01:13 PM
Quote from: cudaken on November 10, 2005, 06:52:26 PM


                                         Cuda Ken, and you guys think I know something :icon_smile_big:

Ya know a crap load more about body work then I do that's for certain  ;)
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: derailed on November 10, 2005, 11:56:57 PM
Ken, Thanks for the great thread. Ive been following closely and learning alot. I am planning on stripping down my 67 LeMans and doing as much of the body and prep work myself. Not alot of rust work involved but plenty of blocking and smoothing. Keep those tips coming and thanks!

   Eric
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 09:49:59 AM
 Next part is boring but it something you need to do, Masking. You are prolably going "that a no brainer" and it is to a point. But it can take some time, first car I masked took 5 hours? Old as I am now about a hour if 80% of the chrome is still on the car.

Most of you will not spend the money for one of these but make's life a lot easyer. If you think or know you will do more than 1 car it is very helpfull. A cheap one like I have will range from $49 to $79 range. Bolt of 18" paper is about $20.00 (will do 4 cars) and 6" is about $5.00 if you can buy just one. Most machines will hold a 18" and a 6" roll at one time. I do not have a 6" roll on mine at this point.

Side tary on it is to hold you Cam 2 cans! ;D
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 09:58:45 AM
 First thing is make sure the Chrome and glass is clean! To fold reason, you don't need crap blowing out from under the paper and getting into the primer. Second is tape will not stick to dust. You can get the primer off, but takes longer than keeping it off.

First thing I do if there is molding or felt to keep material off of is out line the area I am mashing with 3/4 wide tape. When I mask I start at the bottom. Makes it easyer to roll the paper up, and I did say roll.

First I stick the paper on the bottom and pull out the extra paper straight (Doning Driver Glass)
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:00:35 AM
 Next I roll the paper up and under it self
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:06:23 AM
 Then I seal it up. Try to make you wrapping tight as well. If it is lose it will flap more and better chances of blowing off.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:10:11 AM
 If the car still has trim on it rather it be the door handel I pictured or chrome use a razor to trim arould the edges. I will more than likely remove the handel for painting but with being a AMX I have no idea how to open the door with the handle off.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:16:06 AM
 Next tip is going to be the best I have given you so far. Aluminum Foil! :icon_smile_big:

This is handed for masking K-frames, front Bars, A-arms or in this case rear springs.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:23:38 AM
 On that last PIC, I used a garbage bag to cover the drum.

Now for the folks that will be using new's paper to wrap with. Firt I open the paper up like I am going to read it with the top on top and there is a reason. Lay it half on the hood and other half hanging off the fender. Lean aginst the paper with my leg's to hold in places. Pull the bottom pices up a little and lay tape across the top with half of the tape on the paper, and other on the hood. Press down the part on the paper. Pull the next pices up and over the other pices about 2"'s and repeat.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:27:47 AM
 Next take the top pices, pull it off and tape to the pices below it and seal together with tape. When you pull the paper up, pull up the pices that is on the bottom, other wise you will pull them apart
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:33:53 AM
 Note in that last PIC, the windsheild was cleaned as I spoke about.

I layed the paper at the base, let about 3" hang off the driver side post. Folde the paper with tape at a 90 degree angel and tape to glass. I then rolled the extra paper under and sealed to glass. I also fold and tape the paper to it self to take up the slack. This will help make the paper fit the cruve of the glass.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:41:30 AM
 Remember when I said put the tape at the top of the newspaper? Here is the reason, there are holes at the bottom. If you tape the bottom of the paper your car will have primer all over the glass and or chrome.

Reason I did not out line the glass is due to the fact there was no chrome.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 13, 2005, 10:45:11 AM
 Then just finshes up. Took me longer to post the PIC than mask the windsheild. Took me about 5 minutes with taking the PIC.


                    Cuda Ken, masking again ;D
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 14, 2005, 11:57:57 AM
Did you get any primer on it last night?
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 68mmcharger on November 14, 2005, 10:13:35 PM
Thanks for the body work class. Great pictures.

Are you putting body filler directly on bare metal. Is it better to put it over primed/sealed metal? What works best?
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 15, 2005, 10:32:00 AM
 Filler needs to go on bare metal, icing can go over primer. If a little bite of filler is on primer or paint your still OK.

                             Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 16, 2005, 08:21:55 PM
 Ok, back to the hood. Last few day's have not gone as I wanted but there is a shocker. I had not worked on the front of the hood due to the chrome trim. When dealing with 30 + parts you will never know what will happen. Spoke with the owner and for warned that I may need to cut or break it off! If I had worked the front of hood it on, would have been as good as junk anyway.

I found out something about AMC cars. There bodys don't rust like a Mopar but there clips do? Well the good new's is the chrome is off the hood and in no worst shape than when I got the car. Bad new's? Well Eric needs all new clips. ;)

If you look back to page one you will see the front of the hood was nothing but filler after I after blocked it. Use the icing on the front and used the Memory Block due to the fact it has a cruve all the way around that area.

Worked with 80, 120, then sprayed some guide coat. Blocked with 150, found a few low spots in the seond PIC but not unhappy at all with it so far.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 16, 2005, 08:40:17 PM
 Time for some high fill primer. I am using Tran's Star 6401 and hardner mixed 4-1-1 and a Sharp Colbalt gun with a 1.8. Cost for primer is $105.00 for the primer and hardner and gives you a little over a 1.25 gallons of primer. Sharp Gun is around $150.00.

I would have used my Sharp with a 2.3 head to fill faster. But the A-s wipes that use to work for me took care of 2 of them, well not! Big tip, clean the gun real well, no such thing as a gun to clean. My self, I run a 1/2 cup of thinner threw the gun when I am done, Then I pull the air cap, fluid seat and needel valve and leave in thinner, then seal the can they are in.

OK, guessing you are working at home garage. Cover anything you valve. Coblat is a HVLP gun but still but a lot of over spay and Cat primer is a bitch to clean off. Oh, it smells like hell as well. I have been doing this for over 20 years and I still hate the smell.

Will need to sit from 2 to 4 hours before sanding, maybe longer as well.

PIC of the computers, all so covered the speakers, Amps, and other gear.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 16, 2005, 08:50:29 PM
 Hum, for got about the models on the shelf in that last PIC. Well it will buff off. ;D

Time to spary some primer ;D Refresher, remeber the little black spots in the guide coat I posted way back? First I hit them and filler I have worked. Primer is a spray on filler, I want to fill them more to get them straight.

Flash time is around 10 mintues, then second coat. I started just a little farer out from than I did the first time to help level the bodywork and the low spots.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 16, 2005, 09:11:54 PM
 Next, I hit the whole panel. I have sprayed other area's as well but just posting the Left side. Guide coats helps a lot. But the first time you shoot primer will be the first time you will see what you have done. Over all I am happy with what I see. Want to guess what come next? Yep more blocking. When I get anel I block all the filler and the body 3 to 4 times. In this case all filler 2 to 3 times and whole panels I spary 1 time.

Starting to look like a AMX again. I like the right side better, but only took PIC of the left. Remember how bad the Left 1/4 panel looked on page 1 or 2?

                                        Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 17, 2005, 06:58:22 PM
 Now time for the truth. Primer I shoot is lighter than what Eric used. With it being different colors it shows defects that you will never see in paint. Think of it as plastic gauge for body work.

In this PIC of the right door and rest of the PIC the dark gray is where the metal should be, lighter gray is where a dent was filled , tan spots is filler that was high and bright spots is bare metal and a stamping flaw. Dark gray will also show deep door dings.

There are many stamping flaws when car where made, but with being new no one ever looked for them. I could write a book on 68 and 69 Charger hood alone. Everyone I have have done to date have the same flaw's inc a 32,000 68 Hemi Charger.

At his point it is up to the way it feels to you. The real low spots will stand out, I will use Icing on them. Panels where blocked with 150 and a air file.

                                                       Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: AirborneSilva on November 17, 2005, 08:00:48 PM
Just wondering, how deep of a "dent" is it safe to put that icing in?   I'm wondering at what point do you take it down to bare metal then use body filler...
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: haueter66 on November 17, 2005, 10:58:16 PM
Excellent write up!  Keep it up!
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 18, 2005, 08:26:30 AM
Looks good ken, Were did you get the reducer?
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 18, 2005, 09:22:02 AM
 Tony, body filler should never be over a 1/4 thick, work the metal as close as you can to the original shape it should be. If it is a little thicker here and there that OK. Icing, I normal don't use it if it's over a 1/8th inch. Good way to judge is if you can feel the dent but not really see it.

Haueter66, glad you are enjoying it.

Allen, bought the thinner at O Rellys at $13.00 a gallon :P Dam, I wished I remembered to gap it out of your truck! Allen, do you have a Good Will never you? Be a good idea to get some blankets to cover your Roof and other parts before we spray.

Tip for you guys. When you buy thinner, tell them you want the most affordable thinner they have in a 5 gallon can. I get 5 gallons for right around $31.00. Gallon can will run a round $13.00.

                          Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on November 18, 2005, 02:20:06 PM
I am sure we can come up with something but it probably won't be this weekend I have a Challenge tournament saturday and practice Sunday, kinda busy week prior to starting meets :rotz:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 18, 2005, 06:53:04 PM
 Shoot Allen, I was looking forward to it.

OK, today I went after the last impact dent on trhe AMX I know of. ;) Right Front Fender in the same spot of the LFF.

Remember the the pull rods I showed few pages back, time to use them. On pulling a dent, you need to be a little of a dective. When pulling a dent you need to do it backwards as a rule of thumb. In this case I think the car was moving backwards and started there. Other safe bet is start in the shallow spots and work your way to the center.

Frist I used a 3/16th bit and made my holes on top and bottom of the dent. Then I stock the pull rods in, I normal use two first (God This Primer Stinks) then go to one when I am close. While I pull I use a body hammer to work the crown on the dent down. Crown is the high spot like a impact crater.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 18, 2005, 06:58:02 PM
 Next I ground down the primer that was around the dent and the high spots made from the pull. Holes you drill pull up a litte and will be high.

Where there is still primer is a low spot. Remeber this AMX was stripped and primer before I got hold of this! Same thing if car is in paint, and my self rather it would have been.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 18, 2005, 07:10:06 PM
 That PIC look's odd, the black is bare metal and ground off more metal after that PIC. Next I worked the dent with a hammer and dolly from in and under the fender. Lay the dolly (I used a heel dolly) and the flat part of the pick hammer to work the metal close as I could to the orginal shape. Use the dolly as the anvel and hit litghley with the hammer. Want message the metal into shape, litetaps. If you beat the sh-t out of it you strach the metal. Think a ball of hamburger, lay it on a tray and push down, what happens? Gets bigger and no good for body work.

Dam this primer stinks!  ;D

PIC from the front of the dent after working it
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 18, 2005, 07:25:58 PM
 OK, on to me getting anel. I cannot help my self. Guys that used to work for me blew me sh-t about it when I did a Mopar. What they did would pass with the custmers but not me. But as I like to say "it's not my car" and gave the customer the price for a decent repair or the full tilt boogie. 99.9% went for the dencent, go figuer ;) But most where Fords, Chevys, Honda's and rest of the herd on the street.

Nex PIC are of the L Door center body line. Will be very hard to pick out the bad spots (God it smells bad in here ;D, no need of a joint if you want to get stoned and make your head hurt ;D) Little black spots under the body line.

Remember the tape trick I used on the RFF fender? I used that on this part and other parts I did not take PIC of. Ran the tape on the upper line to keep Icing off of the good part and bulid up a little.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 18, 2005, 07:36:02 PM
 Hood is in it first coat of primer, all the filler is in it second coat and I will say this, God this primer stinks! ;) OK, much happer than I was yesterday.

Saturday, rust and my secret weapon! ;)  Spray on bondo, 41 Husk will tell you how much he loves it as well. :devil: NOT! ;D

                 Cuda Ken, blocking again :icon_smile_big:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: CB on November 19, 2005, 12:32:04 PM
Nice work Ken :2thumbs:
It gives a great idea of how my Charger will be done very soon (hope next weekend)
Thanks formaking time and posting those progress pics, appreciate it!!
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 19, 2005, 05:23:56 PM
 Glad you are enjoying it Christen, I think I spend as much time posting as I do blocking.

                                   Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Charger_Fan on November 19, 2005, 05:34:55 PM
Definitely looking good!

Geez, this thing's gonna be in paint in no time! :2thumbs:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 20, 2005, 05:29:59 PM
 CHARGER_FAN, not far off. Just got anel on some stuff.

Back to the right front fender. When working dents get them as close as you can to the correct shape like I posted toward the bottom of page 3. It paid off today, after only 1 coat of filler and about 10 minutes of air file work looks like some icing is all that will be needed. Then primer time.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 20, 2005, 05:44:18 PM
 For what ever reason PIC of the worked spots sure look fuzzie, guess I need to break out the Tri pod for the camera and slow down the shutter speed.

Anyway today did not yeild a lot of things worth taking PIC of. Nick pickie things, kind of like after the only block is srew together and you dialing in the cam. Looks the same, but deveil is in the detail's.

Left front fender needs just a spot of icing say 1/16 by 1/4 and is done. Bodylines on the doors look good and crisp and worked out few more spots I was not happy with. Here is a shocker, found a few more small dents I will fix as well?

I will tell you guys, I have yet to see a perfect car. I had 350 hours in my Charger and still found a few things I did not see!

Pic of the hood in first coat of primer. Took a few more and to be honest was not worth wasting Troys bandwith with.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 20, 2005, 06:04:18 PM
 Few tips on hood's, first they are a pain to work. After filler has been worked with a air file or DA should be worked by hand unless it is in a renforce spot like by the edge of the hood. Metal is flat and not reinforced and will flex. Motion of the air file will make it shake, that cause's high and low spots.

When using using any hand held sanding devices, do not push down! That will also make the hood flex and = low spots. Just push it a cross the hood with a very, very light down forces. Let the paper do the work.

Unless the area is curved like the front of the hood use a long boy or a paint stick. You need to work all the area, not just the filler. You will need to look at how small the dent looked vers the sizes I am working. Think the PIC where on page 2 but not sure now.

PIC I posting will show the range of a stroke I had to use as well. You should be able to pick out low spots as well. Know it looks pretty much the same, but 5 hours today and not a drop of Cam 2 was used.

                                                     Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: MOPARHOUND! on November 21, 2005, 02:23:43 PM
Impressive.   I can only wish to know one day half as much as you do about body work.

Thanks for sharing the pic's, and look forward to more. :2thumbs:

-'HOUND
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 22, 2005, 06:15:34 PM
 Hound, sometimes I wish I did not know sh-t about cars. I have way more money and less headaches, like the one the primer is causing! ;D

OK, first pic is of the right front fender. Hit it with a little icing abd primer. Pretty pleased with it only having one coat of filler.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 22, 2005, 06:23:42 PM
 Today I found only 6 more dents! ;D At this point, I am there so what the F--k.

OK, another Cuda Ken trick. First you must under stand that most panels look flat but are not 45% of the time. 68-70 Chargers are the worst I have worked on! Over the rear Wheel Well it is a big long gental curve. It is a bitch to get straight looking, memeory block work great but that is a driffrent story.

One of the new dents I found. Pretty shallow and hit with one coat of filler. Bare metal seems to be high spots around the dent.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 22, 2005, 06:32:00 PM
 At this point I was not sure if this was the way it should be or not so I used the stick test.

I used a straight paint stick across the dent, then I placed it above the dent. Gaps where the same so there is a factory curve in this area.

Uesd a coat of icing over it and did hit with a paint stick, then the menory block with a very gentle pressure and 3 coat's of high fill primer.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 22, 2005, 06:38:11 PM
 Next, a new and pretty cheap tool. Hand held sand blaster, I bought mine of a snap on truck for only $40.00. Hum, shortley after that he was sh-t canned?

It is great for hard to hit spots like under the hood in the hood ribs or the the fenders where the bolt on to the inner fenders of Mopars
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 22, 2005, 07:22:57 PM
 OK guys what you have been waiting for! The Rust shoots! By the way, just get a bucket now to blow into! ;D Will have some details Wed on the reapairs.

                          Cuda Ken                           

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: twilt on November 23, 2005, 09:39:53 PM
Ken, I just wanted to say thanks for sharing all this great information with us.  :cheers:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 23, 2005, 10:09:35 PM
 Are you the real JUNKYARD DAWG from the old site?

                                 Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: twilt on November 23, 2005, 11:59:17 PM
I didnt go by that name on the old site. My user Id on the old site was the same as it is here. . On the old site, I did make several "junkyard dawg
strikes again"  posts about my junkyarding adventures,  showing some of the Mopar stuff that i find. I love junkyards. i go junkin at least one day every week. too bad they are closed tommorow, i`d rather go junkin than sit around getting fatter eating all day.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on November 25, 2005, 09:51:23 AM
Twilt, there was a guy that had that name on the old site that I use to help him with his I think 73 Charger bodywork. Gueessing that was not you. But thanks for reading anyway.

                                              Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: doitmopar on November 28, 2005, 08:18:49 PM
Hey Ken on the first page you put the guide coat on over the epoxy primer,do you sand the primer first or spray the guilde coat and then sand?Do you use a gravity feed hvlp or a pressure pot hvlp.Thanks for your great thread.Ted!!!  :icon_smile_cool:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: nh_mopar_fan on November 29, 2005, 02:38:27 PM
Ken,

Thanks for taking the time to document and educate. This is really really great stuff.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 08, 2005, 06:35:05 PM
Sorry I have be so remiss about posting about the AMX. Last week I felt like crap and this week I was busy running around. Anyway I am back on it.

Doitmopar. Ted, before shoot the guide coat I scuffed the primer with a Scotch Bright pad then shot the guide coat. When you ask what kind of gun I am using, you mean for the primer or the guide coat? Guide coat is in a spray can, I am using SEM 38203. Gun I have used so far is a Sharp Colbalt HVLP with a 1.8 head.

Once's again nh_mopar_fan you are welcome.

Not much to show today. I did get back on the RFF Fender. One thing I have found is 80% of the when body work is not right, the filler will be to high. It was the case in the RFF as well. If you look real close at the PIC with it in the first coat of primer you might see it in the center. My self, I rather have to much VS to little filler. Hit it with the air file with 150 grit. It showed the high filler fast. After I buzzed it down I used guied coat and with a paint stick. Still going faster than the LFF.



Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 08, 2005, 06:39:01 PM
 Blocked all the other parts but did not bother to post. Front of the hood is done, rear of the hood is ready for Spary On Bondo. Will post part numbers and PC Friday.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 08, 2005, 06:44:08 PM
 OK, here is a nother tip. I have not been spaying primer on the whole hood, just spots that needed the primer. I am also using a HVLP gun that does not have a make a lot of over spary. BUT there was over spay every where on the hood. Can not see it, but if you run your hand across it you can feel it. Hood is close along with over body parts. Make sure you knock off the lose primer over spary before final priming of the panel. It could cause peeling later on.

                               Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 10, 2005, 07:25:23 PM
 Few more PIC. I think I posted before about Metal To Metal by Evercoat so I will not give great details. It is a aluminum paste with a hardener.   Reason it works better than plactic filler it will not let moister through to the metal. Next best thing to a metal patch.

Next new tool is a Air Nippler, used to cut sheet metal. Need to play with it a liitle before you go at it. Punches out say a 1/8" section of metal real fast. It is easy to control and will make turns. Onlt down side is the scrap that is left. Little U Shape metal that will need to be sweep up. Sit on them? Hope your wife loves you! Cutting punch is hard to find for them I will add. I have 3, 2 are dull and cannot find the punch part. I bought this week from Harbor Freight for $30.00 Central Pneumatic # 46061.

On the metal to metal, after the metal is clean spread it on. It is harder to mix than filler, hardner is clear and tuff to judge when mixed right. Sands harder than normal filler as well. Another plus is it harder than normal plactic filler. If you have to go say over a 1/4" of filler, use the metal to metal to get the repair close, will not crack as fast then use plactic filler on top.

In my case, 1 coat of metal to metal, then filler over the top.

                                      Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 11, 2005, 08:53:09 AM
 Opps, for got the PIC's

Where Metal to Metal really comes in handy is on surfaces rust and where it is not practail to make a metal patch. When I first did my 69 Charger long before this site, or when I had a computer in fact, led edge of the Charger fender had heavy pin holes in it.

Pic is of the area but no the same fender. I used the metal to metal on the led edge and last for 7 years. I had metal patch's not last that long.


                               
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 11, 2005, 09:10:20 AM
 Got the rust cut out of the quarter today as well. I cut of the outer skin and where it wraps around the outter wheel well housing. Rearson I cut it off the outter wheel well housing is so the replacement metal will be flush.

With this being a AMX there are no replair panel's that I know of. So I am going to use what is called Flex Edge. It is a pre cut metal made for repairs on wheel well lips like the AMX.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 11, 2005, 09:28:41 AM
Next new item is one of 41 Husk's favorites! ;) Spray on Bondo.

First, this is very hard to work with in one respect, it is hard to spray. I am using Mar-Hyde 2-K Polyester Primer #4533. It takes a gravity feed gun with a 2.2 head or bigger. It is thicker than heck, so thick it will not go threw a strainer. What I found works best is while you are spraying, in between coats, empty the primer out of the gun and running thinner threw the gun. Seems the air it self will cause it to start to set up while spraying!

Make sure you clean your gun real well when done, if it set's up in your gun, just throw it away. Guys that worked for me killed one of my guys with it.

Where I find this to be the most help is on hoods where you need to level alot. Sense I had it mixed up I used it on the right front fender as well.


                       Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on December 12, 2005, 08:23:59 AM
Ken I hope you ment Killed one of your guns not guy's :o
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on December 12, 2005, 10:06:12 AM
Ken this is Eric the car is looking good. :yesnod: Keep up the good work but do more blocking and less posting  :icon_smile_big: How close are we to paint?
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: jaak on December 14, 2005, 11:13:41 PM
Hey Ken, Jaak again, I been keepin' up with this post. I got a ? about the metal 2 metal filler.  On one of my chargers quarters I removed some sloppy bondo work from previous owner, after removing the doh, I see where it was pulled out (pretty close, actually) with possibly a slide hammer (has 15- 20 drill holes), my ? is ,  is the metal body filler strong enough to fill the holes with, them come back over the area with a skim coat of body filler? (ps- it is the area between door jam and front of rear wheel arch, 4-5 inches below center body line). Keep up the kick ass educational courses!!! Heck I may need to send you a case of "frosty" beverages to pay my tuition, LOL.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 15, 2005, 02:47:20 PM
Jaak, more than likely normal filler would work just fine. When you smear the filler on (high teck there folks) the holes will give the filler something to hang on to. Metal to metal is harder, but the holes them self is not a problem.

              Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 19, 2005, 06:10:02 PM
 OK. lets try gluing on on the metal patch. After the patch was fitted to the hole I went head and drilled and tested riveted on the panel. In this case it is the Flex Edge but would be the same if it was a metal patch or repair panel.

The glue I am using is SEM's 39537 Weld Bond. I am using a speical gun for the glue, but can be bought in smaller packages and mixed by hand. What you cannot see in the PIC is a nozzel that mixes the two part glue as it comes out of the gun.

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 19, 2005, 06:23:26 PM
 Before the patch was installed I used a 36 grit and cleaned both panels for a good bond. Glue must be used on bare metal!

With this repair I used a plactic spreader to smooth out the glue. On the inside of the wheel well I used the glue but could not get as clean as I wanted. I will leave the rivets in places just to make sure in the bond fails in that spot the filler will not crack.

If you do not want to use the glue, you could just use the rivets. Only thing you would do driffrent is sink the metal a little more and grind the rivets heads down just a little more.

Repair area was counter sunk but does not show up in the PIC's. After the glue was spread I used steel rivets to hold in places.

Working time of the glue is 45 minutes. Means you can move around, this is very help full when replacing a full quarter.

Set time is 4 hours, at this time glue should be frim and hold the panel in places.

Cure time is 8 hours.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 19, 2005, 06:43:43 PM
 Next the spray on Bondo. Why Allen said it was hard to sand is beyone me. This stuff saved me 4 coats of high fill primer. It one of the best things I have ever used.

First I knocked down the ruff stuff with 150 grit paper on a paint stick. Shoot some guide coat and started with 150 again then went with 220 on a paint stick.

Next I sanded the whole hood with 220 grit to knock off the over spay.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 19, 2005, 07:02:10 PM
Hood is finally done. It will not be perfect but will no longer look like I was jumping up and down on it. Like I said at the start of this long winded posting "Primer hides everything"! Hard to believe I have 12 hours if not more in the hood a lone.

Hood is in it's last coat of high fill primer. Where there is filler I will stick one last time with 220 grit, then the hood as a whole will be sanded with the memory block with 220 then 400 and will be ready for paint.

                               Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Charger_Fan on December 20, 2005, 03:39:42 PM
On the rear wheel metal patch, I was surprised you didn't clean the rust off the metal beneath the patch. Do you figure why bother, because the metal under the parts you didn't repair is rusty too?

How well do those house plants like primer & bondo dust? :icon_smile_tongue:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: CB on December 20, 2005, 05:35:35 PM
youeven got the blessing of an angel :)
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 20, 2005, 06:16:38 PM
 CHARGER_FAN, the rust you can see will not touch the patch. It is solid, it is the outer lip of the wheel well housing, bonding point was cleaned. Like I stated, this is not a full title boogie but will be a good looking street peeler.

No PIC worth posting today but body is close. Left and right fenders, hood, L&R door, left quarter and roof are done. Rear tail panel and trunk need one more coat of primer then done. Only real work is the is the right lower quarter. Broke the bite today as I was drilling out the rivets. Pick that up Wednesday and then filler.

Eric, I need a paint code.

Allen, are we hooking up this week? Like to haul the hood over and jam it. You think the primer stinks, waite till you smell paint. ;)

                      Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Rolling_Thunder on December 20, 2005, 06:20:09 PM
shame shame Ken - should be wearing a mask   :rotz:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on December 21, 2005, 08:12:37 AM
Ken I am going over today about 2pm to put the rear brakes on and get ready to move to the shop for some exhaust tommorow, I can trailer her down there with out a hood, but if you want to come and play, the bait is still in the trap,
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on December 21, 2005, 09:15:26 AM
This what I found From
                                         Eric


Johncanoe@aol.comWed Oct 25 00:16:43 1995
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 1995 01:08:52 -0400
From: Johncanoe@aol.com
To: stoneji@scan.si.edu
Subject: Vin Decoder - 69

69 AMX/Javelin Number Decoder
         
VIN Number
====================================================================
Digit   Value                                    Meaning
======  =======================================  ===================
1st     A = American Motors                      Make
2nd     9 = 1969                                 Year
3rd     S = Manual Trans                         Trans
        C = Auto, Floor, Console
        M = 4 sp
4th     7 = Javelin                              Series
        3 = AMX
5th     9 = 2dr Hard Top                         Body
6th     5 = Javelin                              Group
        7 = AMX
7th     B = 232/6 1v                             Engine
        M = 290 2v
        N = 290 4v
        T = 343 4v
        X = 390 4v
8-13    100,0001 - 699,999 = Kenosha Built       Ser. Num/Plant
        700,001 - 1,000,000 = Brampton Built
       

Unit Body Number Plate - Driver's Door
================================================================
Body Code                        Model Code
==============================   ===============================
Code              Value          Code           Value
================  ============   =============  ================
000001 and Up     Milwaukee      6979-5         Javelin
R-000001 and Up   Kenosha        6979-7         Javelin SST
8000001 and up    Brampton       6939-7         AMX
                 
I do not have the numbers for the interior, they may be the same
as 68, with the addition of a code for leather.

                 
Paint Code
================================================================
First Code Is Exterior          Second Code Is Interior
============================    ================================
Code  Color                     Code   Color
====  ======================    =====  =========================
P39   Matador Red               69R1   Charcol Metalic
P62   Ascot Grey                69R3   Medium Blue Metalic
P63   Castillian Grey Metalic   69R4   Medium Green Metalic
P64   Beal St. Blue Metalic     69R5   Red
P65   Regatta Blue Metalic      69R6   Brown Metalic
P68   Alamosa Aqua Metalic      69R7   Medium Avacado Metalic
P70   Surf Green Metalic       
P71   Hunter Green Metalic
P72   Frost White
P75   Willow Green Metalic
P76   Pompeii Yellow
P77   Butternut Beige Metalic
P78   Cordobe Brown Metalic
P79   Bittersweet Orange Metalic
P80   Black Mink Metalic

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 21, 2005, 11:27:03 AM
 Thanks Eric, your code is  P68   Alamosa Aqua Metalic. Will call Al's and see if they can make it.

                                          Cuda Ken     
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Doc74 on December 21, 2005, 01:06:47 PM
Quote from: CB on November 19, 2005, 12:32:04 PM
Nice work Ken :2thumbs:
It gives a great idea of how my Charger will be done very soon (hope next weekend)


Hmmmmmm not really, with all due respect to what Ken is doing here, which is helping people in a big way and I'm sure he does get nice results, but it's not how we ( me and collegue) work.
And I know Ken stated somewhere in this thread that he's not really a bodyman which makes me give the thumbs up and say kudos but it's not how it should be done, altough it's an option.
Please don't take any offense Ken, I think it's marvelous that you do all this and put so much time in it posting here, we just have totally different ways of working I guess, like I preffer to use as little bondo as possible, none if I can, and remove all bad spots, even not rusted through parts and weld in new patches or makeit from scratch if need be.
Troy speaks some real nice words about you too and I'd love to get together, have a few beers and tackle something, I'm sure we can both learn some cool tricks, cause I'm sure you got a bunch learning it all by yourself.  :icon_smile_big:
I look forward to seeing this baby in paint, I like those things !
If someone wants, the work on CB's charger has started, got some pics here so me or CB could maybe make a thread and I can add comment to the work.....and all of you can comment on that  :icon_smile_big:
All's fine with me, don't want to push this thread aside, not at all, just could be interesting to see another job in the works.
Ken just tell me one thing, I know you ain't stupid so tell me you got a decent dust and paint mask there.I've seen too many good people get sick, very sick.

EDIT to clear up any questions about this, my way is not necessarily the better way, just different.The way I work will cost 10 times more than anything else and that's not always an option.
I know Ken knows his stuff, I would just love to see work progress from him tackling something like a full resto or a custom job, I love those.And it's something else to see.
What he's doing now is getting there with limited means and funds and he's doing a hell of a job in very little time I might add :thumbs:

Would I be too optimisitc if I asked if other people have pictures of their handywork ? This is not to give smarta$$ remarks but I would love to see different people tackle bodywork.

Keep it up Ken, I wonder how that blue will look, should be very nice.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 23, 2005, 08:54:22 PM
Doc, what I am trying to show the guys is what they can do them self and have a decent looking car. This is a street peeler and not a flip it up side down and spin it around job.

If it was a full tilt boogie, more metal would be cut out, hand made patch panels made for 1/4 panel and inner wheel housing.

Lets face it Doc. If they had the money to have someone like you or Drop Top do there cars they would not be reading this thread. Good chances not the on site either. They just have Galand make a shopping list for them and throw money at parts date codes. Hum, I have a friend like that ;)

Bottom line, I do not restore cars, I make great looking cars at a fair prices. I could do a flip up side down and spin it around car. But I am a hot rodder and want drivers, not "I have to clean the floor pan and I wiped of the chalk mark guy".

Hee, Hee, Hee, ask 41 Husk what happen when I cleaned my Charger the last time! ;)

                              Cuda Ken

PS, now where did I leave the English Ball and Leather Mallet? ???

PSS, my God, my spelling is getting better! ??? Only word spell check said was wrong where Cuda and Mallet? Guess I might throw the rest of the decoder rings away. ;) Old timers joke from the first site.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Doc74 on December 24, 2005, 03:35:49 AM
Quote from: cudaken on December 23, 2005, 08:54:22 PM
Doc, what I am trying to show the guys is what they can do them self and have a decent looking car. This is a street peeler and not a flip it up side down and spin it around job.

If it was a full tilt boogie, more metal would be cut out, hand made patch panels made for 1/4 panel and inner wheel housing.

Lets face it Doc. If they had the money to have someone like you or Drop Top do there cars they would not be reading this thread. Good chances not the site either. They just have Galand make a shopping list for them and throw money at parts date codes. Hum, I have a friend like that ;)

Bottom line, I do not restore cars, I make great looking cars at a fair prices. I could do a flip up side down and spin it around car. But I am a hot rodder and want drivers, not "I have to clean the floor pan and I wiped of the chalk mark guy".

Hee, Hee, Hee, ask 41 Husk what happen when I cleaned my Charger the last time! ;)

Cuda Ken

PS, now where did I leave the English Ball and Leather Mallet? ???

PSS, my God, my spelling is getting better! ??? Only word spell check said was wrong where Cuda and Mallet? Guess I might throw the rest of the decoder rings away. ;) Old timers joke from the first site.

Ken that was a way too good point to ignore, you're right, not many can or even want to spend on a full resto and even then, how would people restore a car without a huge garage stuffed with tools.

I think except the fact that people can learn from this thread and tackle some jobs themselves, this is a sure way to get your ride back on the road.I mean how long or better yet, how short of a time are you working on this, every day this thing's improving. It'll be on the road in no time and that's awesome, I think many members here would want to see their ride on the road, not covered in parts somewhere in the back of the garage.
Except for the funds, a full resto would take a 1000 hours and more and then it's so good and so expensive, you're reluctant to drive it  ;D

For members here who seriously want to learn body work I suggest you follow this thread closely and hopefuly others to follow.
Sure there's plenty books out there but because of that it's hard to find the right one, you can't get much more up close and personal than this and if there's any aspect of bodywork or any job for that matter that's important it's finding simple means to do a hard job.
Best example I've seen here is the rubber hose for sanding, think about it, I got a bunch of very expensive sanding blocks for stuff like that, Ken got a 1 cent rubber hose and you know what, it works just as well, yes yes I had to test it  :icon_smile_big:
A solid piece of wood can be cut in the best sanding block you'll find, costs next to nothing and will still work long after you're gone.

Ken you asked to chime in a bit if i wanted which I'll gladly do but so far I think you got it all covered.Maybe people can ask more questions and I'll jump in to answer some so you don't have to spend 4 hours behind the puter after you sanded a whole car !

Only tips people need to remember for now is keep it healthy.Ventilate the area you work in, use dustmasks with filters, use paintmasks, no open thinner containers around, no open fires (obviously), well you get the idea. Bodywork is a great job, a form of art if you ask me but it can bring you to your knees very fast. Protection (no not that) costs very little but can save your butt.

Ken what have you been drinking ?? Your spelling is way too good, what happened ??  :D j/k :nana:

Here's pics of CB's charger from last saturday.Day one we (me and collegue) spent our time planning, measuring and cutting out the bad, fitted the quarter patches and the new front floorpan too so that's ready to weld in
Next week we'll be removing the rear valance, repair it, repair the crossmember and reinstall the valance.
Weld both trunk extensions, strengthen the trunk floor which is amazingly good to begin with and fit and weld the quarters.
It's no a rotisserie job either since we just don't have the means or space for it now but we have more material to our disposal than the average hobbyist so that helps.

http://users.pandora.be/dirk.peeters3/Project%20CB's%20Charger/
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on December 24, 2005, 10:11:13 AM
I have no idea what is going on with the spelling ???

Doc is right, I did not address the safety issues that go along with doing bodywork. Dust mask are cheap and does help a lot. Make sure you vent the room when you are spraying no matter how cold it is out side. Get a respirator as well, I uses a 3-M that cost around $35.00. If anyone needs part numbers let me know and I will post them.

Looks like CB Charger s pretty solid by our Midwest standards. Glad to see you could stay out of the center body line. They are a real challenge to get sharp and straight.

What is the red coating you used on the floor board?

                                                  Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: Doc74 on December 24, 2005, 11:15:52 AM
Quote from: cudaken on December 24, 2005, 10:11:13 AM
I have no idea what is going on with the spelling ???

Doc is right, I did not address the safety issues that go along with doing bodywork. Dust mask are cheap and does help a lot. Make sure you vent the room when you are spraying no matter how cold it is out side. Get a respirator as well, I uses a 3-M that cost around $35.00. If anyone needs part numbers let me know and I will post them.

Looks like CB Charger s pretty solid my our midwest standards. Glad to see you could stay out of the center bodyline. They are a real challenge to get sharp and straight.

What is the red coating you used on the floor board?

                                  Cuda Ken


The charger's not too bad, extensions and quarters are gone as is clear, so was the floorpan for the bigger part, some issues around the rear window and probably the front.
It has a lot of bondo on it as you can see in the pics and all because of small dents so underneat it's prettu good, as it sits now, the line is dull, after sanding to clean metal it's sharp again.The front part of the rear wheel wells, connected to the rocker has issues too, I don't know how much yet, I haven't removed the bondo yet till CB says to do so or not.
I know I'll find holes underneat, question is how many and how big  :D
If the quarters had more rot I'd have cut them a few milimeters under the bodyline, that gives me enough space to make a smooth weld and keep the line razorsharp.But yes, this is easier  :icon_smile_big:

The red coating is called rust stop and it's made by Wurth, A german company with great quality materials but not cheap, they're in the states too.
It's a sort of an etch but very aggressive, the longer it sits, the more rust it transforms in sturdy metal.
We have tougher ones, acid etches but the frame rails were really good to begin with, only surface rust so we cleaned them up nicely, even vacumed them and gave them a few good coats.
Toxic as hell but great stuff !

Agreed on the 3M masks, the ones with the little square filters up front, they're really good.
Also for the sanders, any store bought machinesander and many blocks have a circular opening to attach a vacuumcleaner tube, nuff said  :icon_smile_big:

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: jaak on December 26, 2005, 04:33:27 PM
Hey CudaKen,
  I got a body-line question for you, I know you said that you (and I hear others say, too) You mask off the lower part of body-line, do body work, and blocking on upper part above bodyline, then you mask off the upper part to sand beneath body line. My ? is after doing that does the bodyline come to a sharp point? if so, will you need to lightly hit it with sandpaper to round it off or make it a blunt edge. I hope this is making sense to ya, after reading all your post and doing some online research, I have decided to do my own body work, just wanna get all my ducks in-a-row before I get started.
Thanks, Jason
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on January 04, 2006, 08:55:47 AM
                Ken this is Eric I was wondering where we are on the car and how soon it will be finished?
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 19, 2006, 06:50:50 PM
I will start answering PM in the next day or so. Will not go into great details but got lost in my own little world. Daughter sick, I have been sick, wife, well we know she is sick. Plus I hurt my butt (tail bone) racing the HO cars I have gone off the deep end with. Oh, let not forget the computer crash and backed up septic tank, that was fun.

First set back was the glue I used on the quarter panel! It would not dry? There is a mixing tube that mixes the 2 part glue as it comes out. I was told it could be mixed with a spreader like filler. Did the panel that way, two day later it did not dry? OK, I did not get it mixed right and tried again, mixed for 5 minutes, still did not dry. Gave it one more try and same thing!

Went to South West and I was told by Kevin "after you open the pack it all must be used or it will go bad". I asked him "then why do they give you 2 mixing tubes if it is a one shot deal"? After some playful bitching at each other out he gave me a new package of the glue.

This time it worked like it should, seems there is a shelf time after opening the tube. Bought the tube was about 4 months old. Glue was try to the touch after about 2 hours. Next day it was hard as a rock and strong.

Drilled out the rivets and counter sunk the metal a little and applied Metal to Metal. This PIC is after 2 coats and worked with a DA and 40 grit paper. Make sure you wear a mask and safety glasses, this is some nasty stuff and makes a bigger mess than plastic fillers.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 19, 2006, 07:08:39 PM
I did not post pictures of the first coat of metal to metal, it looked real nasty! Lost 75% of the wheel arch. Took about 40 minutes with a DA, sanding block and rubber hose to make it look round again. Then I had to level the inside of the wheel well. It now looks like something and not "what the heck did you do to my car a-s hole" :icon_smile_blackeye:

Remember I keep preaching about spreading the filler in a larger area than you think you need to? This picture as well will show it. If you look at the picture. This is the first coat of filler hit with 80 grit. Not bad for only one coat.

I have some here to buy the Bike so I got to go.

Seems I have 11+ unread Pm's. I will try to answer 4 a day depending on how long it will take to answer the questions.

OH, I forgot the tooth aches, yep Allen it bugging me again. Seems I need yet another one yanked!

                                         Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on January 20, 2006, 08:24:38 AM
Glad to see you back at it!
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the the people doing there own.
Post by: mopar_madman on January 20, 2006, 09:14:42 AM
Quote from: cudaken on October 30, 2005, 04:26:02 PM
Every think has been blocked one time. Not it is time to show a few more tools. First one is a Air File and there are two kinds and I have both.

In Line Air File and Vibrating Air File.

One in the PIC is a Vibrating Air File. After I used one to qoute Wil Smith from 4th of July "I got to get me one of this"! ;D It is the sizes of a normal air file but Vibrates like a jitter bug. Give me some 320 Air file paper and I can make anything straight. Reason I like it better than a In Line is it does not leave deep scrathes that need to be filled with primer to make feel smooth. In Line does cut faster but I also tened to cut off to much filler so I rather do it slower.

  I will ad finding one is tuff, most counter people will give you funny look when you ask for one. Would need a good air supply to keep up with it. Your A/C has wheels, for get it. ;) 3 HP with a 60 Gallon tank will work, I have a 5 HP with 80 gallon tank.

Thing in front of it is a Dolly, I forget the exact name of this one but as you can see it has a curve to it. Been 26 years sence I went to Voteck school. I used this one to help get some of the curves back where they belonged, that and the Pick Hammer I showed above.




comma dolly I think? where did you get your file from?
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on January 20, 2006, 09:16:41 AM
     Ken glad to see you working on my car again thought I was going to have to come get it. Thanks Eric
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: andy74 on January 20, 2006, 03:45:28 PM
keep at it buddy,we will talk soon!Andy
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 22, 2006, 11:51:00 PM
 Few more PIC. Used guied coat on the filler and hit with 150 grit long boy. There is a total of 4 coats of filler counting the Metal to metal.

Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 22, 2006, 11:52:20 PM
 First coat of primer, look pretty good.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 22, 2006, 11:56:10 PM
 It will need some icing, but as a whole looks pretty good.

Back of the car is in primer as well. Might need one more coat of primer between the tail lights. Trunk will be blocked with 400 and should be good to go.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 23, 2006, 12:03:13 AM
 Shoot 2 coats on the right front fender and right door. Just block with 400 and should be good to go.

                  Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 23, 2006, 12:04:38 AM
 In that one PIC of the tire, that is from the flash, not primer.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: jaak on January 23, 2006, 12:06:54 AM
Ken....
  Good to here from you and see your still at it, I was sorta worried about you , you haven't posted in 2-3 weeks. well keep up the good work.

Later,
Jason
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on January 23, 2006, 11:08:15 AM
Ken, She looks like your ready to roll into the booth for a little color.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on January 26, 2006, 08:44:10 AM
               


                  Ken did you fall off the face pf the earth again. playing with your race track.  :flame:  You need to contact me so we can get this car in paint and I can get it back.  We will be out of school soon and I want to drive the car over the summer. :icon_smile_cool:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 29, 2006, 06:13:58 PM
Today I found one more dent, there a shocker. OH, whats another dent.

R 1/4 is in it second coat of primer and looks pretty good. I saw 2 small spots that will need some icing but they are real small. Most people would not see them.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 29, 2006, 06:24:56 PM
I hit the left side today as well. Make sure you blow off all the dust and hit lightly with 220 grit to knock off any over spray that may have gotton on to other parts of the car.

Got the roof in primer and the left side. Got to clean up the rear valances and block the right quarter one last time but ready for final sanding with 400 git.

Hood is ready to come off and underside painted. Just need some way to haul it to the Mopad.


                 Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on January 30, 2006, 08:37:30 AM
Ken, I will have Eric get a hold of you, He has a truck.  I thought you were gonna call me to come get the hood yesterday?  Glad to see you made good progress!
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on January 31, 2006, 05:52:05 PM
 Today was a bad day. Had another tooth fall apart. Right 1/4 looks ready for paint, same with roof and trunk. I wanted to get more done, put it is hurting pretty bad right now. Anyway they are in 400 grit, roof you can see a slight shine.


                                  :icon_smile_dissapprove: Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: AirborneSilva on January 31, 2006, 06:44:53 PM
lookin good Ken.  I guess after you go over it with the 400 grit you will see anything you might have missed :icon_smile_question:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on February 01, 2006, 08:31:35 AM
Ken, are you ready for paint?
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on February 01, 2006, 09:29:13 AM
     

            Ken this is Eric, are you ready for paint :icon_smile_question: All you have to do is let me know when you order it and I will go bye and pay for it. I am running out of school days and I will need them to put the car back together  :icon_smile_big:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: MOPARHOUND! on February 06, 2006, 03:07:27 PM
Quote from: 41husk on February 01, 2006, 09:29:13 AM
     

            Ken this is Eric, are you ready for paint :icon_smile_question: All you have to do is let me know when you order it and I will go bye and pay for it. I am running out of school days and I will need them to put the car back together  :icon_smile_big:

Eric,

Drive over to Ken's house and inspect it in person.

I saw it Saturday.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: AmadeusCharger500 on February 06, 2006, 10:55:54 PM
I have some parts questions for both Ken and Doc.
Ken- What is the part number for the 3m mask. Do you wear a different mask for sanding then for painting?
Doc- What kind of cutting wheel do you use. What type of disc and where do you get them.

My cutting wheel has always seemed a bit useless unless I treat it like a grinder. Thats about all it seems to do, push metal around. It takes a hell of lot time to actually cut something with it.

I will be starting a project soon and i would hope to have access to you guys when I do. Don't know if you remember Ken, but I talked ot you on the phone about 2 years ago and you helped me a great deal. You and Drop Top.

I used your advice for the glue and rivets on this fender patch, but had to have a pro do my quarters. I don't weld so good!

Anyway, I'm one of the happy board members who did almost all my own body work and painted the car in my driveaway, with no experience except the guys here. (Now don't anyone please say it looks like it) I know its not great, but it is a driver.

Heath
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on February 08, 2006, 09:59:08 AM
     

           This message is for moparhound I will go bye  and look at the car.  But with all of the pics on the internet that he has posted I haven't felt the need to.  Also when I go the a steak house I order a steak and  they bring it to me when it is cooked. I don't run back in the kitchen and check to see if the cook is doing a good job.  I have faith that when the "professional"  hired to do the work, is doing a good job or I don't hire them. I am a school teacher, real-estate agent, I buy houses and rehab them, I coach 2 sports, and my wife is 6 months pregnant. I spend my off time selling showing or working on houses and don't get home until 8:00pm most nights. This is why when I took the car to ken I explained I wasn't goint to be there to babysit this project. And as far as the time issue goes you of all people should understand my concern.

                                                                     Eric
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: MOPARHOUND! on February 08, 2006, 01:40:28 PM
Quote from: 41husk on February 08, 2006, 09:59:08 AM
     

           This message is for moparhound I will go bye  and look at the car.  But with all of the pics on the internet that he has posted I haven't felt the need to.  Also when I go the a steak house I order a steak and  they bring it to me when it is cooked. I don't run back in the kitchen and check to see if the cook is doing a good job.  I have faith that when the "professional"  hired to do the work, is doing a good job or I don't hire them. I am a school teacher, real-estate agent, I buy houses and rehab them, I coach 2 sports, and my wife is 6 months pregnant. I spend my off time selling showing or working on houses and don't get home until 8:00pm most nights. This is why when I took the car to ken I explained I wasn't goint to be there to babysit this project. And as far as the time issue goes you of all people should understand my concern.

                                                                     Eric

I hear you on the time issue. 

Given the difficulties, and what I heard, a visit sounds like a good idea.

This 'HOUND will move on, I have no dog in this fight. (pun intended)

Take care,

-MOPARHOUND
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: 41husk on February 21, 2006, 11:52:53 AM
Ken, have you set up a booth to shoot Eric's car in?  Let me know if you need me to set up that booth I used.  I don't know what he will charge to rent it but I am sure it would be reasonable.
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: T16 on April 17, 2006, 06:00:16 AM
Awesome thread  :2thumbs:

Will try to do my own bodywork.. and this really helps a lot. :icon_smile_big:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on July 06, 2013, 05:24:38 PM
 This is a big bump! But I think it will help some of the people here! I will all so add it is one of the reason I gave up on cars for 8 years!

Long story made short, Eric came up to pick up the AMX and did not take it to the body shop I had arranged for uses of the booth. He said the traffic was to bad!  :shruggy: I used or spent $500.00 or so in supplies and never saw a dime!

He took it to another shop and had it sprayed and was told it came out pretty good.

41 Husk and Eric are no longer friends, but Allen and I still are!  :2thumbs:

What I did wrong? I was going to do the car in 1 month, pretty much a Wham Bam Thank You Mam. But I could not do it to a AMX so I took 4 months. What can I say?  :shruggy:

I hope this bump will help some people here.

I have found renew interest in saving my 68 Road Runner that I have owned for 40 years now. The AMX is one of the reason the Mopar Fire went out.

As you can see she will need some TLC.

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner001_zpsa90dc966.jpg.html](http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner001_zpsa90dc966.jpg)

Main thing is getting her going again and I am working on that!

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner004_zpsb1b19b3f.jpg.html](http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/Charger%20Site/1-RoadRunner004_zpsb1b19b3f.jpg)

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/06-14-01_zps9b2a1a40.jpg.html](http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/Charger%20Site/06-14-01_zps9b2a1a40.jpg)

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-7-04-1_zpsd44959c6.jpg.html](http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j284/cudaken/Charger%20Site/1-7-04-1_zpsd44959c6.jpg)

I will add I was mussed and dishearten that when the AMX pictures where taken, my beard had no white in it!  :brickwall: Getting Old Sucks!  :lol:

Cuda Ken
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: ws23rt on July 06, 2013, 05:50:12 PM
Getting old does sucks but we can take it. The kids can't
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cdr on July 06, 2013, 06:56:01 PM
i dont know you,but i am glad to hear about the fire under your butt,  :smilielol:  it will be nice to see a picture of you driving your roadrunner down the road.  :2thumbs:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: AirborneSilva on July 06, 2013, 07:50:33 PM
Ken!!!  Wow, I haven't heard from you in forever!  Glad your back on the forum and have rekindled the fire  :2thumbs:
Title: Re: 69 AMX Body Work, will help the people doing there own bodywork.
Post by: cudaken on July 07, 2013, 10:21:52 PM

Yep, it feels good to be back. Looking forward to getting some paint fumes in my nose again.

Now where did I leave my paint guns?  :shruggy:

Cuda Ken