I am about to start on the wiring and I got that RF kit. I got a sweet deal on a rear tail light harness so I used that for the back. Any pics of what you guys did with the headlights and bulk head?
Hey Comet, Im just about to start on mine too. Im also using the rear harness as I have a new one there and I will try and source a connector for it or use the old one and splice into it. :2thumbs: Hopefully we can help each other out on here. From memory your doing the dak digital guages as well yeah? Im just about to order those today.
Yes sir! I looked on RF's website and it looks like they have connectors there, The 8 block (or 6 don't remember) that connects up the rear I will be getting, should make it a bit easier. I am going to try to get the correct connectors where applicable for everything but the The DD.
https://www.ronfrancis.com/products.asp?dept=58
I also saw this and was curious. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Dodge-Charger-Headlight-Harness-426-Hemi-440-383-318-225-six-pack-/251816744603
Yep, the rear harness is at least an 8 plug. I may have got one in the kit actually after looking what they gave me. If it doesn't rain here tomorrow I might be able to get out in the shed and have a look. Our winter here at the moment, it never rains unless you want to do something or someone washes the car. ::)
Well as it turns out I have a 6 plug connector on the rear harness but RF supplied an 8 plug connector. They have supplied a male and female side so I should be able to turn in it into something. :2thumbs:
Looking forward to seeing how you both like it...It is still on my bucket list. We are into the hot summer now, but time is what is getting me, lol.
I'm not sure where to start from actually?? :shruggy: There's no clear instructions. I will probably start at the battery box and work my way forward. The battery is going in the trunk and I'm running a 0 guage cable and 250A fuse for the starter and a 2 guage cable and 100A fuse for the accessories (a little bit of fat in there for upgrades) and I'll run that up to the terminal post under the dash. :2thumbs:
So I finally started to look at the Ron Francis kit last night to map out where I was going to mount the fuse block and sush and while I was talking to my engine builder who really liked the kit by the way, he told me he may have brand new, unused M&H harnesses for a 69 Road Runner that he had done work to last summer. Low and behold he has the dash, engine and front light harness's that went unused on that car. So I acquired those harnesses for a bit of computer work! So while I love the RF kit, in the sake of an exellent deal and time saving I am going to use them instead.
I will post the RF kit for sale here if anyone is interested.
I guess I'm on my own then... :shruggy:
The guy helping me actually has a RF kit he installed in his Buick GS and he really liked it.
Ok cool. Is he going to chime in on here then?
I aim to install one...eventually, lol.
I installed a rf kit, Dakota dig gauges, classic auto air all at the same time. Also put in a relay center underneath the battery tray for headlights/headlight doors. IMO, place the rf panel where you want it, and rewire EVERYTHING. It would seem trying to retrofit factory wiring would make it harder, ALTHOUGH, could wire by hand up to the bulkhead connector, and use factory wwiring under hood, and use a factory taillight harness at and wire rf up to that connector. I wired and tested mine with the dash out and on the bench. I am glad I didn't try this in the car
I went with that kit because my wiring in the car was shot and this kit seemed exactly what the Dr. ordered.
Getting brand new M&H harness's handed to me for free basically is the only reason i'm not using the RF kit.
Yeah it's ok, I'll get by I guess. :'( . Just joking. ;). I'm looking at mounting the fuse panel in the old glove compartment area along with the stereo head unit. I'm going to make up a new ally plated liner for it like someone else has on here. Heres a rough sketch as well.
I was going to mount mine down by the e brake mechanism on the firewall and my DD where the old fuseblock went.
I separated my original harness to understand it, and it did help a lot. I just am trying to wrap my head around if I had tied the Dak Dig dash to that factory harness, how would I have done it. Don't take my word for it though, I am far from a professional about this.
The way I understand it is the dash switches use the plugs as normal, the gauges themselves are rerouted to the control box.
that is correct, and if you can sort out the gauges, the connections to steering would be plug and play
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on June 26, 2015, 09:25:48 AM
Yeah it's ok, I'll get by I guess. :'( . Just joking. ;). I'm looking at mounting the fuse panel in the old glove compartment area along with the stereo head unit. I'm going to make up a new ally plated liner for it like someone else has on here. Heres a rough sketch as well.
Looks cool, keep in mind that fuseblock is pretty big though.
I just got a quote back for a custom shop to fab up a glovebox... $800-$1000... I think I'll have a go at it myself and they can do the finish welds for me for $300
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on June 26, 2015, 10:57:50 PM
I just got a quote back for a custom shop to fab up a glovebox... $800-$1000... I think I'll have a go at it myself and they can do the finish welds for me for $300
That is an absolutely ridiculous price! 1k for a glovebox liner? If you have any older hvac shops you might be able to have them crank one out for you.
You can probably make one out of 18 gauge pretty easily...If you decide you need something more substantial and can't work it as easy, just use that thinner gauge as an example and go to town.
I'm an Electrical Contractor as well so I'm doing some horse-trading with a buddy to get it done. :2thumbs:
Aussie, I made a glovebox liner and installed the rf panel, dak, dig panel and the classic auto air panel all in the glovebox. Make sure you measure depth to the heater box. I drilled and installed grommets to be able to bring in wires for some components from the top and bottom of the panel, but most came in from the left side of the car. If you PM me, I could email pics, but there is a hundred ways to skin a cat in this instance anyway
Hey Fizz, thanks for the offer of sending some pics, I would really love to see some. As many as you can, it all helps:
pjhollands@yahoo.com.au
Thanks in advance :cheers: and I'll keep everyone posted and do pics as I go.
OK. My buddy and I knocked up a new glovebox liner. I'm going to mount the stereo head unit in there as well. I bought one without the CD player so it's not as bulky and will fit snug in there. I will mostly be listening to the FM radio or bluetooth music from my phone anyway. I still have to sand it off and paint it in a wrinkle finish but ya get the idea. I will replace the nuts on the back with wing nuts. I will pull the fusebox out and run the wires to it then set it in place after. I have nearly finished putting down most of the Dynamat insulation so I can start on the cabling to the battery box and mount the joining stud under the dash somewhere for the accessory and fusebox wiring.
Nice, should look pretty slick once it is blacked out! Looking forward to seeing the finished product.
Got some time off and some fine weather today so I shot some black on the glovebox liner. I'll have a look later and see if it needs another coat but. It's upside down at the moment but you get the idea. Then I can set it back in the dash with the radio. I was going to go with the Dakota digital gauges but I already had some gauges I ordered a couple of years ago from Speehut and I'll use the classic dash insert. When I get it all together and I can put it back in the car I will be definitely taking more photo's.
Some more progress pics. Finished the insulation on the floor, roof and doors. I had some guages already so I decided to try out the classic/thunder dash bezel and fit my own guages to it. Like Redmist in another post, I found the 4" guages just a tad too big and the 3 3/8 guages a little too small but workable. I had to re-use the old switches from the old dash and fit them to the new bezel. I had to glue some small pieces of hobby pine wood to the back to get it to work but it looks ok for now. I think if I had my time again I would go with the Dakota guages. Also the original bezel has a slight bend in the middle where the radio sits. The classic bezel has the bend built into the face of it but the panel is actually straight so you have to bend it over to meet the guage panel and hope it doesn't crack over time. Some of the pre drilled holes don't line up with the dash frame holes also but I will have to fix that too. Theres a few work arounds you have to do, it's definitely not a "bolt in" item like the Dak guages seem to be.
I will post more as I go.
Nice work. I like the metal glove box, I have my fuse boxes mounted like that too but id be concerned about grounded something on the metal insert. looks great though cant wait to see the finished product
Metal glove box? How's that supposed to go back in?
Quote from: myk on July 30, 2015, 10:50:23 AM
Metal glove box? How's that supposed to go back in?
I will fit it to the dash frame before it goes back in.
Ok guys, I've had a bit of a hiatis due to weather and family commitments. I have e-mailed the ron francis techs and had a very limited response, they must be getting a lot of queries. You guys here may be able to help. Has anyone wired in an Ididit colum as part of their projects. I am using one and I'm after some tips or a circuit diagram of how to wire it in. I'm re-using the original switches in a Classic Dash setup with Speedhut guages and a classic air-con unit as well.
They've been quick to answer all my questions, but I suppose mine are more pre-sales tech, lol.
I wonder if you'd try emailing them at a time down under that would coincide with their business hours if you might speed things up. I had always heard people saying they could call in and get walked thru most any situation...The time change is a big issue for you, so hopefully something falls into place.
I messaged them again last night and they replied. He said he passed it on to someone else and they never got back to me but somone else did early this morning. They sent me a reavised diagram but it doesn't have the Ididit coloum wiring. I have the colum with the key barrel on the colum. I'll try him again and see if he can give me another revised drawing.
Well, no luck with Ron with the revised drawing but I got started on it any way. My tactic is to run the wires out to roughly where they have to go and then go back and cable tie them in. I noticed once I got started things just fell into place. I do however need a diagram for the fan circuits on the Ron Francis fuse panel, Summit racing sold me the wiring kit which was supposed to have the extra bags and instructions for the cooling fans but I can't find them anywhere. If anyone has a wiring diagram or instructions for the fans please let me know.
Something I also had a problem with if you noticed on the last pic, I'm using an Ididit steering column and I think the attaching lugs were fitted in the wrong place. I bought the column through XV going back about 7 or 8 years ago now and I've only just noticed that the key switch on the column sits to far around i.e. not at 3 o'clock where I would of thought it should be
I'll be trying to hide the wiring as much as I practically can, so if anyone has got any suggestions or photo's I would love to see or hear them. I'm looking at picking up the fender mounting bolts on the inside of the fenders and coming off those with a saddle clip or something.
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on March 03, 2016, 11:04:36 PM
Well, no luck with Ron with the revised drawing but I got started on it any way. My tactic is to run the wires out to roughly where they have to go and then go back and cable tie them in. I noticed once I got started things just fell into place. I do however need a diagram for the fan circuits on the Ron Francis fuse panel, Summit racing sold me the wiring kit which was supposed to have the extra bags and instructions for the cooling fans but I can't find them anywhere. If anyone has a wiring diagram or instructions for the fans please let me know.
Hey, what are those 3 black, look like mesh wire sleeves coming out of your firewall into the engine bay? Iam installing RF kit too!
The black mesh stuff is a new style of wire sleeve. I wanted a neater finish than just ordinary convoluted tubing.
I also chopped out the windscreen wiper mount and opted for an under dash GM one just to try and beaten up the firewall.
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on March 05, 2016, 08:22:41 AM
The black mesh stuff is a new style of wire sleeve. I wanted a neater finish than just ordinary convoluted tubing.
Did you make new holes in the firewall? How did you connect the mesh? Where did you buy it? thanks
Yes I did make new holes in the firewall and I used a 25mm or 1 inch compression gland and passed the mesh through the gland. I bought it from Jaycar, the equivalent of your Radio Shack electronics store. I know Ron sells it as well or you can EBay it.
Quote from: frank1966 on March 05, 2016, 09:07:39 AM
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on March 05, 2016, 08:22:41 AM
The black mesh stuff is a new style of wire sleeve. I wanted a neater finish than just ordinary convoluted tubing.
Did you make new holes in the firewall? How did you connect the mesh? Where did you buy it? thanks
It goes by a few names but if you search for 'mesh wire loom' you'll find all kinds:
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=mesh+wire+loom&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=60682980072&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12904473040905900506&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_71j3wbcmb4_e (http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=mesh+wire+loom&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=60682980072&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12904473040905900506&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_71j3wbcmb4_e)
Also here - https://www.ronfrancis.com/products.asp?dept=299
Is it heat proof? Does it melt easily?
It has some degree of heat protection but I won't be running it over the exhaust or anything really hot, maybe just across the top of the intake manifold. I'll still use heat shroud for around the starter.
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on March 03, 2016, 11:41:56 PM
Something I also had a problem with if you noticed on the last pic, I'm using an Ididit steering column and I think the attaching lugs were fitted in the wrong place. I bought the column through XV going back about 7 or 8 years ago now and I've only just noticed that the key switch on the column sits to far around i.e. not at 3 o'clock where I would of thought it should be
Hey it looks you really know what you are doing man! What are those grounds inside your dash? Did you do some wiring with this kit yet?
Yep, just started getting into it recently. It's been a bit painful waiting for other things to happen but at least it's moving along now. I'm using just a standard relay for the starter solenoid and then another 2 relays for the wiper circuit so they are some of the grounds you can see. Where the connectors join and are made off to plugs I've soldered those as well, just to be sure.
Nice, why did you use a relay for the wiper switch? RF kit has a direct feed to the wiper switch from the fuse box.
I blanked off the original wiper motor and used a GM one under the dash.
I had to check the current draw of the starter solenoid and it was 25 amps so I'm using just a standard 30 amp relay with good gauge wire.
I'm also using a cut off switch and it doubles as a good junction point to join all the Actives together. I will putting a maxi fuse in the supply from the alternator either at the alternator itself or where it meets at the junction point. You can't have enough protection. ;)
Are you running a one wire alt? Iam, do you suggest I put an inline fuse? Its a 90 amp alt powermaster.
Yeah, I would definitely put one in. Depending on the size wire going to the alternator, but I would be thinking about an 80 amp fuse.
Yes you should have a maxi fuse inline
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on March 11, 2016, 08:51:03 PM
I'm also using a cut off switch and it doubles as a good junction point to join all the Actives together. I will putting a maxi fuse in the supply from the alternator either at the alternator itself or where it meets at the junction point. You can't have enough protection. ;)
Where are you mounting the cut off switch? Which one are you using?
I'm using just a standard isolator switch. I did have a summit one somewhere but lost in what is called the "Workshop". I mounted it in the glovebox area as well.
Quote from: mopar0166 on March 14, 2016, 08:06:41 AM
Yes you should have a maxi fuse inline
The problem is how to crimp a 4G wire? Maybe iam using too thick of a wire. I can probably use an 8G for a 90amp alt.
I would try and solder it personally, but ask a local auto electrics shop and they should be able to help.
I thought I would share a few tips: I started by mounting most of the ancillaries i.e. MSD, thermo's etc. I would then recommend running out all the wires and then going back and tying in and putting on corregated tubing and fancy wire loom etc. A few times now I have thought "crap, I forgot something" so its better to get all the wires run in first. On my car I also had to allow for hood turn signals (wires supplied were too short, they were for side indicators), air con (no allowance for it), reverse lights (no allowance for it), Interior lights (there is a circuit for it), halo headlights (re-direct some of the park light circuit), an electric fuel pump (new circuit) and thermo fans (additional to the wiring kit). I changed the way the nuetral safety switch was wired as well, I put it in series with the starter relay. It looks like a mess now but I'll make it all nice. Pics on the way....
I would be interested to hear from other people as to where the best place to put the ignition coil would be aside from on top of the motor. I just mounted mine on the inner fender and it looks a bit out of place there.
Are you running a big block? If so, I'd probably keep it in place, close to the distributor. If you are running a small block you could maybe hide it on the firewall etc.
Looks like things are coming along nicely!
Yep, running a 400 Block stroked to 500. There is no where really else to put it I think that would be close and not have too much volt drop to the dizzy. I could use some low impedance spark plug leads but they would probably cost heaps.
As I stated in another thread - "I am using a RF kit and the indicators in the back still work off the break lights by the looks of it. I was hoping that wouldn't be the case and I will definitely change it for safety reasons. I have had to run extra cirucits with the RF kit as well for stuff like AC and Thermo fans (even though the kit controls the fans they still have to be fused from somewhere else). I'm also not happy with the small gauge wire that is running to the RF fuse box, looks to be too small. Good luck and hope the Painless kit works out for you."
RF kit is good for stock but if you want to put extra's in I would look for something else.
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on April 06, 2016, 05:00:06 AM
RF kit is good for stock but if you want to put extra's in I would look for something else.
Mind you I did use only the Express wiring kit and probly should of used one of their others....
I have also put the wires through plugs rather than direct to the fittings (crimped + soldered) just in case I want to take the dash bezel or steering column out to work on something I can do it easily. The Ididit column has the key on it so I replaced the original key switch with a push start button that illuminates when in Park or Nuetral. I don't think it looks too out of place.
I had a question for ya'll, is it better to illuminate the outer most or inner most rear brake lights for braking? I'm using the 2 inner ones and not putting them through the indicators at all, the 2 outer ones will be for the indicators, to save some muppet running up the back of me when being confused by the indicator/brake lights. Most of us here have never seen those.
No feedback on the brake lights?? :rotz: Another thing I am disappointed with is that, as I've been handling the fuse box a few times with my hands, some of the lettering has come off and I may have to get a new stencil from Ron and re-do the lettering on the panel.
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on April 10, 2016, 07:53:23 AM
I had a question for ya'll, is it better to illuminate the outer most or inner most rear brake lights for braking? I'm using the 2 inner ones and not putting them through the indicators at all, the 2 outer ones will be for the indicators, to save some muppet running up the back of me when being confused by the indicator/brake lights. Most of us here have never seen those.
I plan on doing something similar on my 70 Charger. But I also want to add a high mounted third brake light, just need to find one I like,
Quote from: Derwud on April 28, 2016, 01:49:44 PM
Quote from: Aussiemadonmopars on April 10, 2016, 07:53:23 AM
I had a question for ya'll, is it better to illuminate the outer most or inner most rear brake lights for braking? I'm using the 2 inner ones and not putting them through the indicators at all, the 2 outer ones will be for the indicators, to save some muppet running up the back of me when being confused by the indicator/brake lights. Most of us here have never seen those.
I plan on doing something similar on my 70 Charger. But I also want to add a high mounted third brake light, just need to find one I like,
I used the 3rd brake light part of their circuit and wired that to the brake lights. I'm using the 2 inside lights on the tail panel for my brake lights. I don't know if that's right or not?? I have a 69 Charger.
Here is my thought.
Blinker Stop Stop Stop Stop Blinker
Tail Tail Tail Tail
This way the outer would Flash only and the Inner would act as your third brake light since it's only function is STOP light.
Quote from: Derwud on April 28, 2016, 03:54:17 PM
Here is my thought.
Blinker Stop Stop Stop Stop Blinker
Tail Tail Tail Tail
This way the outer would Flash only and the Inner would act as your third brake light since it's only function is STOP light.
Cool, so you reckon have 2 stop lights on each side?
Oh Yeah, I want everyone to know when the stop pedal is being pushed!!
Quote from: Derwud on April 28, 2016, 04:06:58 PM
Oh Yeah, I want everyone to know when the stop pedal is being pushed!!
Is that what they are from the Chrysler factory?