Where can a guy by a fuel tank sending unit for our cars that actually reads at least as accurate as the factory one? All I've bought has been junk so far.
I bought a spectra premium. Was a little more money but so far so good.
None. They all are based on a linear fuel sender curve whereas the originals used an elliptical curve. This means that no aftermarket sender will ever be as accurate as a OEM sender. It sucks. :eek2:
As far as trying a spectra brand, where do you find one of those? I buy the spectra gas tanks but have never found a sending unit. What would a place like graveyard cars use? I wouldn't think they would put up with junk
I got mine from Vans and got satisfied... just some tweeks and adjustments and voila!
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?topic=127935.0
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,118503.0.html
Troy
I looked on the Spectra Premium website for myself and I don't see one for the 74. Make sure you check out your old one and match it to what you are going to buy. I've seen a lot advertised to fit 71-74, but the 74 doesn't have a return line on the sender like the 71-73. The line out is also angled and not straight like the 71-73. I don't know if some early 74's used the same as a 73. If so, Dixie restoration parts is selling a 3/8" unit on ebay and claim it's made by the original vendor for Chrysler. I guess that doesn't mean it's made the same as it once was. Linear vs elliptical? Search for a 74 on ebay and you will see some advertised as 74-76. This is correct for mine. But made in Taiwan. I really want a US or Canadian made one. Be sure to let us know if you have success.
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 24, 2018, 11:50:29 AM
I got mine from Vans and got satisfied... just some tweeks and adjustments and voila!
What kind of tweaks and adjustments?
I bought mine from Kramer Auto last year and it works. Sometimes they are not listed on their website so call them.
http://www.kramerauto.com
Quote from: 400sforever on January 24, 2018, 07:45:40 PM
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 24, 2018, 11:50:29 AM
I got mine from Vans and got satisfied... just some tweeks and adjustments and voila!
What kind of tweaks and adjustments?
sorry, forgot this. What I did on mine:
My gauge wasn't getting the top and low readings on gauge like it was with the original sender, So I spreaded out a bit the floater arm tops to increase the arm trace. Also bent a bit the floater angle arm to be sure the low reading won't meet with tank bottom once the tops were spreaded out. Of course this would affect the full floater height but actually is more important get a better empty reading just right before get a real and unreversible empty tank on road.
Since I still didn't get satisfied, ended open up the rehostat housing and with an ohmeter hooked up bended a bit the point tab attached to the floater arm over the coil untill get 10 and 70 ohms to high and low readings, then reassembled back.
Once being parked I missed the gas reading on gauge... I kicked up the gas tank and got back the reading LOL... maybe the tab missed contact over the coil on THAT specific position so maybe I need to add some more pressure over the coil... but just happened twice. I didn't want to deal with that again because probably the rehostat housing could get break the assembling tabs. Still if they break is fixable, but would n't like to deal with an ugly fixing.
When I bought the VANS unit, I paid around $45 where the rest of sellers ( selling in fact "Mopars" senders ) were rated on $100-120. I think that was around 8 years ago, so pay $45 and add some tweeks is quite good for me. Now all senders are rated on $40-60 rate
I didn't like the "Mopar" units being with plastic floater and a wire between rheostat and outside terminal. VANS one was like the original, with brass floater and metallic strip.
Mine, shown in my 'Bee restoration thread, came from Right Stuff (the guys that do prebent brake / fuel lines).
Listed at $47.25. It, like all of them out there apparently, appears to be a linear rheostat but it has proper brass float and flat plate sender connection vs a wrapped wire.
The one for my '69 with 5/16 single feed.
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rsu6801 (https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rsu6801)
Here's 71-74 charger with 3/8" and a return it appears. Same price.. $47.25
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rsu7104 (https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/rsu7104)
Unfortunately wrong for a 74. Shouldn't have the return line. The return line is on the tank. How many people end up buying the wrong parts because the vendors don't know the difference.
Quote from: E5 Charger on January 31, 2018, 12:19:13 PM
Unfortunately wrong for a 74. Shouldn't have the return line. The return line is on the tank. How many people end up buying the wrong parts because the vendors don't know the difference.
Could just be the wrong picture? :shruggy: Send them an email..
I'm not looking for one right now. I'm just pointing out a common vendor mistake. That one is for a 71-73. The one in the attached photo is for 74-76.
I called Kramer and they told me they are selling Taiwan and Chinese made senders also. However they still may have some factory senders available. I'm waiting to hear back. The company that made the accurate original ones would still make them but you have to buy batches of 250. Kramer said they can't sell enough fast enough to justify them. Bottom line, we need to send the junk back to all these vendors and insist on nothing but perfection. I was told to have instrument specialties rebuild my factory sender if it wasn't totally destroyed (which is a rare occurrence)
Classic industries needs them shoved up their butts. I've tried to contact ray Yager with no return call ever. They are not interested in getting a quality product evidently. I've bought 2 crap Taiwan senders with a lifetime warranty. I'm going to take them out of the cars and send them back and start the up-the-butt sender shoving.
Good for you! It makes me want to switch my whole fuel system to a 73. Cheaper tank, Canadian made fuel sender and tank straps available!
We had a member here trying one time to get enough buyers together to warrant a correct group buy but he couldn't get enough interest either. Surely there are 250 people out there who need a correct sender?
Quote from: Ghoste on February 09, 2018, 10:33:43 AM
Surely there are 250 people out there who need a correct sender?
:iagree: Group Buy, I'm IN for one!
Put me in for one too!
I would be in too, if it's 3/8" and we can have them by September/October. :2thumbs:
Always good to have a spare. I'd be interested in an accurate one. Maybe there should be a poll or list?
Quote from: E5 Charger on January 31, 2018, 12:19:13 PM
Unfortunately wrong for a 74. Shouldn't have the return line. The return line is on the tank. How many people end up buying the wrong parts because the vendors don't know the difference.
do you mean the tee on top of the hump ? That's the only tee I recall on my 74 tank
on my car this tee is attached to somehow of check valve line bolted to the body, somehow like a vent system ?
I never have understood the vapors setup on 71/74s... all are diff and have no idea how it works. Need to say locally assembled Mopars never got the vapor canister system either on engine bay
My car got originally 5/16" sender and lines ( 400 engine ), but I bought a 3/8" fuel sender with 1/4" return line tee which I capped off for a while, thinking on a future upgrade to a full 3/8" line with the return line to match the new "451" I'm running like 440 cars should got. It is straight not angled outlet, but it is what it was available on those days
Yes on top of the hump. This 1/4" line goes to the vapor canister. The 74 Service Manual shows a vapor liquid separator in the dome of the tank and also a overfill limiting valve just before the Charcoal Canister. I don't have the limiting valve by the charcoal canister, but assume I have the vapor liquid separator in the dome.
I can't recall anything inside the tank, but maybe that's the reason for the price of them?
Now, if is the return line, why would connect to the vapor canister? shouldn't go to the fuel filter ?... something makes no sense :shruggy:
I have the 74 FSM but not in hands, is with my car, thousand miles from home
Allpar.com has a good explanation.
https://www.allpar.com/fix/fuel/evaporation-control.html
interesting... not sure if I understand everything but still interesting.
as far I can tell, they mention 72s changed to the one nipple tank, which I think is incorrect being 74s with the hump, and the mentioned 70/71 ECS setup was really 70/73... right ?
aaand... the humped tanks... get some lines inside or is just the dome and done ?
BTW, I'm tired of the pressure build up on my tank... as mentioned my tee doesn't get anywhere but a line attached to the body with somehow of check valve inserted.
sorry the highjack