Hi,
Anyone have a clue where this pink wire goest to?? I have rallye cluster.
(http://pink_wire.jpg)
What year car? Also, what type of connection is on the end of the wire, hard to tell in the picture. Does the other end go to the fuse box?
Total guess but, long pink wire = glove box light feed. Especially if it's always hot.
Hard to tell by the pic but it looks like the end of the pink wire looks like this (see pic below). If so then Bronzedodge could be correct about it being the glove box light wire that goes to the fuse box. The connector has the piggyback spade for another similar wire to share the same lug.
BTW to answer your question BLK 68 R/T about what year, my guess is '71 and up going by the backside of the cluster and the wire harness cradle at the top of the OP's pic.
:cheers:
Pink wire is batt source wherever it gets.
Glove box wire ? could be but as far I recall the glove box wire gets a plug to reach the hot source molded in a rubber provision around speaker area, and plugs there.
That mold also feeds map light when equipped and courtesy ign key light.
It can be also pedal brakes source, Hazzard flasher plug, cigar lighter plug. Even the hazzard flasher wire up to turning switch.
Cluster itself doesn't get any pink wire
we need to track down what function you got missed, for a while, you need to isolate that wire
this is the mold and gets 3 accesories sourced... mostly sure glove box, map light and ign courtesy light flasher ( can't recall exactly... my car is parted out since 4 years now and is thousand miles from home )
Hi,
Thank's for the answers.
Car is 1973 SE.
The connection on the end of wire is small plug. I haven't seen that kind of a plug anywhere else.
I will take a closer picture today when I go to repair that car.
There might be few other wires what I don' exactly know what they are. I'll take a picture for those also.
Regards
Pasi
Hi,
Here is a closer picture from wire.
(http://pink_wire2.jpg)
Looks like it used to go into a moulded plastic connector :shruggy: connector looks damaged to me though.
Where does the other end go?
THAT'S the glove box light terminal... inserts into the glove box socket... the socket itself is a built in switch. Ground is sourced by the chassis and turns on by the ground.
the shape is to fit the bayonet bulb ends.
the tab on upper left side of the pic is the one what should keep the terminal into the socket. Maybe the socket got broken to hold that terminal into the socket ariund the tab area. A bit of glue and voilá
I'll try to get a better pic of this piece
(http://www.2040-parts.com/_content/items/images/60/2115160/001.jpg)
hard to see, but goes like this:
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/xTQAAOSwNDJaZqsf/s-l1600.jpg)
Ok thank's for information.
I looked to the glove box and there is only a hole (right) where that light bulb should be.
So I think that it is missing and that's why that cable is left as is. Strange because there is 12 volts always on...
Maybe I have to get new one somewhere...
becarefull that wire must be hot once you connect the batt ( and while fuse is not blown ).
used and new glove box assemblies are around. Mostly sure somebody from this same board could get some available. I think have one of those BUT I'm not in USA
here is one cheap... you won't need the wire, just the socket/switch assembly... will remove that wire and install your existant wire
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MOPAR-1978-1979-1980-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-CHRYSLER-GLOVE-BOX-LIGHT-SWITCH-3747124/282818114253?hash=item41d945f2cd:g:3jgAAOSwqvNaZRkl&vxp=mtr
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 25, 2018, 11:39:10 AM
THAT'S the glove box light terminal... inserts into the glove box socket... the socket itself is a built in switch. Ground is sourced by the chassis and turns on by the ground.
the shape is to fit the bayonet bulb ends.
the tab on upper left side of the pic is the one what should keep the terminal into the socket. Maybe the socket got broken to hold that terminal into the socket ariund the tab area. A bit of glue and voilá
Good to know :cheers:
Mystery solved :2thumbs:
and another one with correct wire if you want to replace the wire from your car and use the full assembly, wire ( and bulb ) included
https://www.ebay.com/itm/67-68-69-70-71-72-Roadrunner-Dart-Charger-Barracuda-Dash-Glove-box-light-Works/401480786587?hash=item5d7a1ea29b:g:lRcAAOSwMEtaWsmp&vxp=mtr
Yes I noticed that it is hot. I tested it using volt meter. And indeed there is 12 volts...
Maybe this is a right part for my car also?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1973-1974-Road-Runner-GTX-Charger-Super-Bee-Rallye-dash-glove-box-lamp/391964381213?hash=item5b42e5d01d:g:Cv8AAOSwvjdZREDF&vxp=mtr
I have to check those postal fees also. Those are not cheap always ;)
Well i'm from Finland...
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on January 24, 2018, 08:29:26 AM
Glove box wire ? could be but as far I recall the glove box wire gets a plug to reach the hot source molded in a rubber provision around speaker area, and plugs there.
True on later models. My 68 has a pink wire direct to fuse box like picture above. But I've also parted out a few 73 B Bodies and the glove box wire pink goes to the molded block.
:cheers:
Btw...
If you look first picture you can see a wire where is grey, black and green wires.
If i'm not wrong those are radio wires? Or if not. What are they?
-Pasi
Quote from: paspau on January 25, 2018, 12:13:46 PM
Yes I noticed that it is hot. I tested it using volt meter. And indeed there is 12 volts...
Maybe this is a right part for my car also?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1972-1973-1974-Road-Runner-GTX-Charger-Super-Bee-Rallye-dash-glove-box-lamp/391964381213?hash=item5b42e5d01d:g:Cv8AAOSwvjdZREDF&vxp=mtr
I have to check those postal fees also. Those are not cheap always ;)
Well i'm from Finland...
actually both ( that one and the one I posted in $18 ) are the same part I posted in $9 just the wire lenght makes difference, hence the diff car application and PN BUT you have the wire on car... just need to replace the one on socket for the one on your car got and done. Its a piece of cake job. Just bend a tab, remove wire and fit in there your wire/terminal
Vegascharger used to have lot of 3rd gens parts for sale too... maybe he have one around.
Quote from: paspau on January 26, 2018, 07:02:17 AM
Btw...
If you look first picture you can see a wire where is grey, black and green wires.
If i'm not wrong those are radio wires? Or if not. What are they?
-Pasi
that's the speaker harness for the rear speaker fader on MONO radios, located on seatbelt/ map light panel
and yes, its an extra harness what splits out the Radio speaker signal to the front speaker and rear speaker, and teh fader gives the balance between both. It seems its cut. That harness can be found used around. I have one I could get rid off if you don't find it, but I'm in Venezuela.
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/pCwAAOSw~CFY6u64/s-l1600.jpg)
well, actually it seems what you really need is the FADER itself, not the splitting harness. Female end is the one cut which is the one attached to fader knob... so:
( not cheap though )
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-71-72-73-74-B-BODY-CHARGER-ROADRUNNER-DASH-SPEAKER-FADER-SWITCH-KNOB-BEZEL/152848837116?hash=item23968029fc:g:pCwAAOSw~CFY6u64&vxp=mtr
cheaper,with panel included, but missed knob
https://www.ebay.com/itm/71-72-73-74-Charger-Road-Runner-fasten-seat-belt-map-light-rear-speaker-fader/152850807308?fits=Year%3A1974%7CModel%3ACharger&hash=item23969e3a0c:g:f8sAAOSwkLhZ-hrX&vxp=mtr
with knob, but it seems the fader pigtail got cut the plug... which in any case you have, just need to splice it in your one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-74-OEM-Charger-Road-Runner-seat-belt-bezel-map-light-Rear-Speaker-3488673/192434457160?fits=Year%3A1974%7CModel%3ACharger&epid=1127894727&hash=item2ccdfcca48:g:en8AAOSwUn9aRb0L&vxp=mtr
just thinking out loud... check WHICHEVER you got missed on your car... me or any other member can get everything you need and then shipp everthing together.
I think also have a glovebox socket.
I have that fader with the complete splitting harness. Not the section between dash ( splitting harness ) and rear speaker thought which in any case can be easily done at home.
whet else, what else
Nacho You are THE man :D
I will check out what parts i'm missing and will post it.
But to other guestion.
Today I checked how my oil, temperature and fuel gauges work... But they didn't.
I checked my papers and noticed that there is one yellow socket where goes two wires and leave three wires.
I am missing that one wire. Am I right if I say that it is the problem why those gauges is doing nothing?.
I tested regulator before I assembled it (there is +5 and +12 volts). But now there is coming any volts...
Only gauge that is working is AMP.
no...
gauges are being feeded buy a voltage limiter attached on back of cluster what becomes the 12 volts source to 5 RMS volts by this piece with its harness and peak absorver/noise reducer condenser
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/yQ4AAOSwuLZY3w4B/s-l1600.jpg)
that thing spreads the +5 volts RMS to each gauge. Senders send variable ground values to move the needle
That piece must get a ground wire to the prong at bracket and positive source to the bakelite prong. Both on underdash harness. Both are black BUT ground feed is a wider prong plug to not conect them backward and BOTH are important.
IF you get 12 volts at the black wire feeding the bakelite prong then you can get a damaged voltage limiter
The danger on this is a damaged voltage limiter can feed straight 12 volts to all the gauges and if does, they are already burnt. If the limiter misses the ground signal, also can burn the gauges even being in good conditions
this 12 volts cames from an accesories source.
now... the yellow wiring... not sure which one you meant. There are two yellow wirings "networks" on underdash system... Door jam switch ground AND a wire that feeds ign key courtesy light, controled by a relay flasher with 3 prongs ( one of them getting a pink wire )
Here is a picture where you can see that yellow mold...
Isn't that right one?
(http://keltainen.gif)
And the other side... As you can see that wire goes to the G120-BK which goes to the voltage limiter?
(http://keltainen2.gif)
Oh! You meant yellow MOLD itself!
Sorry! I thought on yellow wiring!
Yes that's accesories source. That mold shares same accesories source coming from same fuse to feed the voltage limiter and whatever acc you connect on that mold, such as rear deffog, air conditioning compressor clutch, and in my case, used that same mold to connect a powered trunk latch. On diagram states to be used to power the tach when equipped. If no options, this mold will be empty.
You can miss the mold, but... we don't know if the wiring on back is really missed?
Maybe the mold was cut and the splice where tan and black wires are together into the mold are loosen around. And that could be very well the reason to not get the power up to the voltage limiter.
The mold should be around the steering column/pedal brake brackets area if my memory is good
This is an E body harness but is pretty much the same than our B body harness.
Check the first pic and you'll notice the yellow mold. Your one should be around same area.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/70-74-Challenger-Cuda-E-body-Rallye-Dash-Wiring-Harness-A-C-3-speaker-Rare-/152180241758
somebody on another thread posted a pic which BY CASUALITY gets the yellow mold visible
(http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=131486.0;attach=282706;image)
Yes, I found that yellow mold.
There was two wires attached to that. I believe that those was rear defog and air conditioning.
There was no fuse connected. Well I connected a new 20amp fuse.
It burned as soon as I turned key.
There is no air conditioning connected. And rear defogger switch was broken (I ordered new one already).
So I think that fuse blows beacause of those broken things...
unplugg those and check if the fuse doesn't blow to discard the underdash harness itself
the AC source from that mold is just for the compressor clutch, not for the blower. Blower gets sourced straight from another fuse
Thank's Nacho and everybody else!
Now this glovebox light is working. (Finally I got the right part from USA).
I have a few problems with rallye dash. Anyone have a good picture from back (where those wires are in right place).
Or if you have a good electrical diagram that would help me a lot...
Car is almost finished ;)
(http://hanskalokero1.jpg)
(http://latest2.jpg)
(http://latest3.jpg)
Housing has casted every color to the right gauge stud... even the sockets wire colour
and you got the diagram posted ;)
Violet-temp
Blue-gas
gray-oil
Green wire socket... one side turning cavity
Tan wire socket, the other side turning cavity
Black small spade conector... +VL
Black big spade conector... -VR ( bracket prong )
big gauge red and black wires... ammeter ( housing gets RED label casted... the other one is black )
all orange wire sockets, all orange casted label cavities
Emergency light sockets is unique one getting two wires and is fully plastic ( not metalic retainers like the rest )
Red wire socket... high beams indicator.
Voltage limiter pigtail with 90º terminals... one end to each gauge, unlabeled stud.
Everything is pretty much straight up
Somehow I have every wires black ::)
So it's hard to know where they should go. But you know... it's have been about 40 years that somebody has been making new wires or something... Hard to find out..
That's not I can ( barelly ) see at the first pic you posted
I mean those wires that goes to gauges.
They are all black. But there reads a colour (back of the dash) that should go to that specific plug.
I have to take a picture from a back of the dash.
well, maybe wires were fixed, splicing up some wires due an earlier damage. You can cut a bit the plastic black tape to track which one is which one and find the wiring colours.
ANYWAY... if you cross up those wires, won't get any damage, just diff gauge reading... like a temp reading at gas gauge ? LOL... ALL gauges works the same and responds the same to the voltage changes just the face changes to read oil, temp or gas. You can become a gas wire on temp wire if you cahnge the lettering LOL.
if you don't want to cut the tape ( I'll do it ) to track the color wire, it can be made grounding each sender wire end at a time. Let's say you ground the temp sender wire on engine bay, put the key in RUN and check what gauge comes up to max reading. That wire arriving to that gauge on back of cluster will correspond to the temp gauge, just swap it to the temp gauge... and do the same to the rest, for the oil sender and gas sender wires.
REMEMBER the voltage limiter output source pigtail is all black ( pic posted on reply #26 ), and drives the 5 volts positive to all gauges, to the unlabeled stud on back of cluster ( it can be reversed toght, but just for correctness ), while the senders works with variable negative/ground