I traded for this Charger shell last summer. It had been sitting for 20+ years and needs cabin and trunk floor pans but the rockers and frame rails are surprisingly solid. I have several projects that are suffering greatly from scope creep so I HOPE to keep this one as as budget bomber. Something I don't have a ton of money in. The early plan is to ring/gasket a 440 I have sitting in the shop. I also have an 18 spline 4 speed just waiting to be used. I didn't get much with the car, but I plan to use all the cast off/replaced parts from my other 68 Charger rest-mod build. Paint job will probably be a satin or patina job.
(https://i.imgur.com/FlVScS8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UUOCaod.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LbpVL16.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/myZoF8V.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/v1FqVsD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zNRIUNQ.jpg)
That does look solid.
I'll be watching this thread with interest.
It looks to have good bones.
Looks like you have a few Chargers in your supply line :2thumbs:
The 68 appears to have 69 doors so just remember when you are rounding up the upper door pads
I'd budget a minimum of 50 to 75 grand if you want to make it very nice.
Quote from: Mytur Binsdirti on May 11, 2019, 05:31:50 AM
I'd budget a minimum of 50 to 75 grand if you want to make it very nice.
This one will NOT be very nice. It will be a fun bruiser. My other Charger will be a really nice one. I'm thinking more like $10K....considering I have a drivetrain and most parts will be donated from my other Charger, I think that might be doable
Quote from: 70 sublime on May 11, 2019, 05:06:05 AM
Looks like you have a few Chargers in your supply line :2thumbs:
The 68 appears to have 69 doors so just remember when you are rounding up the upper door pads
The other Chargers belonged to the guy that traded me this one. They're all gone now except the two he is keeping. I did notice the 1969 doors. It must have been done early in its life because the exterior of the doors was color matched pretty well to the quarters and the paint has been on the car a long time.
Hey fellow Kansan, how did the auction go on the 69 Survivor that got wrecked. ??
On another note. Keep up on the Doctor visits and stay well. Cheers.
The last time I put a Charger together for ten grand,was 1989.
Quote from: chargervert on May 12, 2019, 12:40:01 AM
The last time I put a Charger together for ten grand,was 1989.
I hear you. In reality it will cost more then that because I have the entire drivetrain (eng, trans, rearend) from a car I used to own. I have 3 grills laying around. I have seats, radiator, cluster, AC box, glass, etc from my other Charger. I rebuilt/powdercoated a complete set of front suspension for another ar and then went with an Alterkation front end so that's just ready to go as well. I plan to do the body work myself. Including the OPPORTUNITY COST, I will certainly be over $10K. And I may still lay out more then $10k, but I plan to be stingy on this build
If you factor in the value of the Charger shell,parts,and your labor,it will be atleast 25k to put together anything that runs and drives decent.
I know. I have no illusions but how much they cost to build. I have three money pit resto mod builds in my signature that have educated me well!
Quote from: chargervert on May 12, 2019, 12:12:30 PM
If you factor in the value of the Charger shell,parts,and your labor,it will be atleast 25k to put together anything that runs and drives decent.
There are ways to bring that number down significantly. I have been buying chargers and parts, keeping what I want/need and selling the rest.
This has off set the cost of building a car and often times I have ended up with cars/ parts for free after selling what i don't need. Other times I have ended up with nice parts well under market value.
I have seen the OP's online want ads; I have no doubt hat he is familiar with this as well.
Yeah if you just flip out the cash it's expensive. There are other options.
Quote from: spoolinhard on May 12, 2019, 02:45:15 PM
Quote from: chargervert on May 12, 2019, 12:12:30 PM
If you factor in the value of the Charger shell,parts,and your labor,it will be atleast 25k to put together anything that runs and drives decent.
There are ways to bring that number down significantly. I have been buying chargers and parts, keeping what I want/need and selling the rest.
This has off set the cost of building a car and often times I have ended up with cars/ parts for free after selling what i don't need. Other times I have ended up with nice parts well under market value.
I have seen the OP's online want ads; I have no doubt hat he is familiar with this as well.
Yeah if you just flip out the cash it's expensive. There are other options.
BINGO
I have been doing that for 40 years,thats why I got twenty of them.
Quote from: ACUDANUT on May 11, 2019, 11:01:32 PM
Hey fellow Kansan, how did the auction go on the 69 Survivor that got wrecked. ??
On another note. Keep up on the Doctor visits and stay well. Cheers.
[/b]
??????
Quote from: ACUDANUT on May 12, 2019, 07:28:21 PM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on May 11, 2019, 11:01:32 PM
Hey fellow Kansan, how did the auction go on the 69 Survivor that got wrecked. ??
On another note. Keep up on the Doctor visits and stay well. Cheers.
[/b]
??????
Thanks! I forgot to respond! My Dr visits/scans have gone well. Ive been doing physical therapy 3 times per week for the past 2 months...I'll be in therapy for at least another 6 months.
I'll be following this one as well, sounds like a great build and very similar to the way I'm approaching my car.
Even today these cars CAN be put together for reasonable amounts of cash provided you're ok with 'driver' quality used parts and don't get hung up on making every nut and bolt perfect. Used parts are out there and can be perfectly usable if you're willing to invest some sweat equity to refurb things as needed. Sure you can be $50-$80k deep if you go nuts with parts catalogs but if you're patient and creative you can get a lot done on even a modest budget.
Quote from: chargervert on May 12, 2019, 04:49:25 PM
I have been doing that for 40 years,thats why I got twenty of them.
You really seem to like to let everyone know how well you are doing each time you mention HOW MANY of these cars you own.
This is a recent thing. I don't recall this being a normal habit for you. Why are you bragging about this ? I have enjoyed your posts from the past but lately you sneak in a comment about your collection in almost every post.
I have been downsizing myself, I have twenty project cars,only three are done,yet yesterday morning I was out picking up another basket case. It's a sickness, consider it a cry for help, not bragging!
Quote from: chargervert on May 13, 2019, 02:06:11 PM
I have been downsizing myself, I have twenty project cars,only three are done,yet yesterday morning I was out picking up another basket case. It's a sickness, consider it a cry for help, not bragging!
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/4c/14/6e/4c146e1759d3713ca84ad0c45fcee363.jpg)
It's a real sickness, I get my fix when the next piece of junk is on the trailer. That said, I still think that it will cost a minimum of 25k to get that 68 Charger in running reliable condition, add 15k more for body and paint if you choose to really finish the car.
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on May 12, 2019, 03:39:29 PM
Quote from: spoolinhard on May 12, 2019, 02:45:15 PM
Quote from: chargervert on May 12, 2019, 12:12:30 PM
If you factor in the value of the Charger shell,parts,and your labor,it will be atleast 25k to put together anything that runs and drives decent.
There are ways to bring that number down significantly. I have been buying chargers and parts, keeping what I want/need and selling the rest.
This has off set the cost of building a car and often times I have ended up with cars/ parts for free after selling what i don't need. Other times I have ended up with nice parts well under market value.
I have seen the OP's online want ads; I have no doubt hat he is familiar with this as well.
Yeah if you just flip out the cash it's expensive. There are other options.
BINGO
It's still spending money no matter how you obtain the money, no different if you worked extra hours at your job. Making money parting out cars is still making money and if you didn't spend it on your car project you would still have the money. Nothing is free. Can't believe I had to explain that. :eek2:
I know that time is money...but I tinker with these cars to unwind. And I know exactly what the real costs are... I am just saying I would like to spend ANOTHER $10K and use all the extra parts I have sitting around the shop. And I'm sure I will spend more then that. The point is for it to be a FUN budget driver that looks decent.....not showroom, just decent. I just want to have fun...anyway...lets not talk about the REAL COSTS anymore...or anything related or off topic-no more discussion about that non sense. Just back to our scheduled programming...budget fun:
First thing that bugged me when I got home with it was the bent corner on the driver's side front corner...
(https://i.imgur.com/Ch2vvSo.jpg)
View from the top looking down...
(https://i.imgur.com/6L950vD.jpg)
I got an old 2x4 and a hammer/dolly and starting tapping away. It's not perfect, but I don't care...
(https://i.imgur.com/H31u0y8.jpg)
With all yours spare parts and not wanting a expensive paint job, I think you can pull it off for 10K. :cheers:
Absolutely.
I'm in a deal to get a complete XH '70 Charger for $5000. I already have a 440 here, a 727, an 8 3/4" axle, several sets of gears, new mufflers, enough alternators and starters to service a fleet, radiators, wire harnesses and gauge clusters....It will need some new parts but getting it up and running can be done for under $10,000 including the price of the car. This car needs a tug on a frame rack or a new frame rail due to a front end collision. I have a complete front stub so I either pay a shop to straighten the frame or replace stuff myself.
Sounds like a nice project, and being in California certainly helps with finding a Charger with minimal rust issues. Out here a Charger in the five grand price range would need 10k worth of AMD sheet metal, plus the cost of installing it, or the labor cost of doing it yourself, so a running project Charger in the 10k range isn't doable. Even with your amazing 5k buy in,if you add the sum of the parts that you already have, and your labor, plus the new parts, you will have over 20k in it. If you decide to do body,paint,interior and chrome, you can add 15k more on top of that number. You can tell yourself that it's 10k,just because you are not pulling more than that out of your pocket right now, but you are only fooling yourself.
I think you can get that car going for $10,000. Especially if you have the parts and do every bit of the work yourself. I have slightly under $10,000 in my '68. It isn't perfect. I did my own bodywork and painted the car inside my shop. The only thing that I have hired out so far is machine work on my 440 block, crank and rods. Once you start hiring people to do bodywork, metal work, build an engine or your interior, things get expensive very quick. I don't have and can't afford a perfect 68-70 Charger but I do have one that I'm going to be able to drive and enjoy. I'd say go for it with the $10,000 budget.
Right before my shoulder surgery in late January, I made sure I got the cabin floor pans cut out. The floor pans had lots of rust/holes but the frame rails and rockers are in good shape...
(https://i.imgur.com/BpnOD9x.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cl2FvXf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/otn8tfD.jpg)
Had 1.5 hours available, so I fired up the air compressor and got to work knocking all the undercoating off of the passenger side inner fender. If you haven't used a needle scaler, you need to try it. A needle scaler gun is super cheap on ebay (like $30-40 shipped) and does a nice job in a reasonable amount of time. The passenger side inner fender took one hour and 15 minutes. I will never use a torch and scraper again...
(https://i.imgur.com/4pShX7z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qjC0p8R.jpg)
using POR15 will make the rotted metal stronger bonding all the rust as making the car one big rust bucket covered in protection :2thumbs:
Just the cost of the full floor pan,and the two rear foot well pieces,plus the materials to install the floor pans is easily a grand, so the ten grand budget is already shrinking fast.
l've replaced front floor pans, trunk pan, rear frame rails, rear cross brace, shock crossmember, torsion bar crossmember, both rear quarters, and one outer wheel well and broke my 5,000.00 budget. But now except for time l'm on the down hill side l hope. Then l will overhaul the engine and trans, and then do the interior and on the road she may go lol
I bought a battery powered Milwaukee Fuel DA sander a while back so I went after the rust on the roof. What a nasty job! THE roof skin has plenty of dings but it's cleaning up pretty nicely! Passenger side....
(https://i.imgur.com/NlIvywo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nmCzTG5.jpg)
Looking good.
I got the rest of the roof stripped...didn't realize the roof had as many dents as it does!
(https://i.imgur.com/eAqqSmM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wCEqC9A.jpg)
And I started stripping the cowl...
(https://i.imgur.com/j5fvLaZ.jpg)
How is the battery life on that D/A sander? It seems that cordless tools and battery tech has really improved lately.
I've been really impressed with the Milwaukee Fuel M18 line of tools. I can use their impact all day long on one battery and I can't use up the battery. The DA is a different story since it is in constant use. It will run for almost an hour straight (depending on speed), but they recharge really fast so I just swap between the batteries. The worn out battery will charge before I need to swap batteries again. I prefer the battery to using air since its quieter, I don't have to worry about moisture in lines, and I don't have to drag hoses/cords.
How do you have time for all this ? Family, house, kids, wife and a job. :shruggy:
It seems like I'm making a lot of progress, but I only work in the garage about 2 hours per week. I just try to make as much progress as I can and I take lots of pictures. Some of the first pictures are from before my surgery. I used to get so much more done then I do now....
A previous owner hacked up the k member with a torch so its not useable. I removed what was left of the front suspension. Then I fired up the compressor and knocked all the undercoating off the driver's side inner fender, which took about 1.5 hours.
(https://i.imgur.com/fkHp0Un.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HWWQuoR.jpg)
Man, its looking good. I love 68 Chargers and better yet I love a good budget build. I also like how you are not cutting corners like some budget builds. I bet this thing is going to turn out real nice.
This update won't wound like much but it was a lot of work....I dug out all the sealer in the rain gutters and the forward pillar channels. Getting back under the lip was a major pain but every bit of sealer has been removed. I also removed all the windshield clips and retaining screws from the front windshield channel. I couldn't believe that they all came out! The rear window trim clips and screws were not as cooperative. It helped that the windshield had been out of the car for 20+ years.
(https://i.imgur.com/o3hTtIp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DlTef8s.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/s4c9Xbb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AE2hCSz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Qf9HuBw.jpg)
I spent another couple hours with the needle scaler. This time, I did the inner rockers, torsion bar crossmember, cabin floor pan supports, and I started on the rear frame rails and floor pans under the rear seat. I am always amazed how much better they look...
(https://i.imgur.com/GbiEpq3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/erjNJr3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AA7yAbM.jpg)
Before I cut out the trunk floor, both rear frame rail needed patched near the top of the arch. Before aftermarket parts were available for these cars, someone had stripped this car. Apparently they really needed the shock absorber mount/crossmember, but instead of grinding welds to remove it, they used a torch. In the process they cut out sections of the frame rail. I didn't want to replace the whole frame rails so some sections were traced/cut and butt welded in.
Before...
(https://i.imgur.com/SEqb5CG.jpg)
After
(https://i.imgur.com/VrwXsK4.jpg)
I've been trying to find/buy a used rotisserie for the last 3 months and I can't get to one before its sold. I've emailed the seller within 2 hours of listing and it's always already sold. I told a friend and he said "why don't you just use mine?". I didn't even know he had one! So I picked it up and got the Charger mounted. Now I can cut out the trunk floor pan and remove the last of the undercoating from the rear frame rails.
(https://i.imgur.com/TrpwLPC.jpg)
Coming along nicely! Does the needle scaler leave any marks? Do you hit it straight on, or from the side at an angle? I was always going to try one, but stuck with the chisels and scrapers.
I use about a 30-45 degree angle (from the sheetmetal) with the scaler. It really doesn't peen the metal at all if you stay with shallow angles
Nice work shop. :cheers:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on July 29, 2019, 06:37:51 PM
Nice work shop. :cheers:
Thanks! It's dirtier then it looks. I am glad I painted the floors though. Cleanup is so much easier with the painted floors.
Now that the rear frame rails are patched, the next task is trunk floor pan removal. A previous owner used an acetylene torch to cut out pieces of both passenger side wheel houses in order to scavenge patches for another charger. Again, this car was parted out before aftermarket sheetmetal was available...but it's still a bummer considering how solid the driver's side wheel houses are.
(https://i.imgur.com/90QHPCY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XSUZy1Q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7QlD90p.jpg)
I fired up the compressor and got out the sheetmetal trimmer. I use it to trim around both sides of every frame rail edge. This leaves just a thin piece of sheetmetal along the lip of each frame lip. It took me about 3 hours to get the big pieces out and get to this point...
(https://i.imgur.com/7bWzOoV.jpg)
And the pieces/debris that came out...
(https://i.imgur.com/J3T6LhR.jpg)
I admire your work and dedication. :cheers:
Coming along nicely! Thanks for the insights on the needle scaler too.
Save the old floor part that has the holes for the gas tank filler and drain till you have the new trunk floor
I had to make the drain hole in my floor so was handy to have to find the right spot :2thumbs:
Quote from: 70 sublime on August 04, 2019, 05:02:15 AM
Save the old floor part that has the holes for the gas tank filler and drain till you have the new trunk floor
I had to make the drain hole in my floor so was handy to have to find the right spot :2thumbs:
Thanks for the heads up!
I spent about 4 hours grinding spot welds and peeling ip the remaining strips of sheetmetal. It doesn't look too different...
(https://i.imgur.com/UucxigB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/oiQmz7R.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6GjrBUS.jpg)
Wow, I thought you said this car was pretty solid ??
It really is quite solid....for sitting outside for 25+ years! It's still more solid then most Mopars...especially most north of Interstate 70. It just looks bad because everything is laid open. If you looked in side most frame rails, you'd be shocked. My 70 cuda front frame looked rock solid, but when I decided to do custom full length frame rails, we removed the front frame rails and they were disgusting inside.
I spent about three hours knocking undercoating out of the wheel wheels and from the hump above the rear axle. I think I have about 3-4 more hours until it is completely finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/oVNlmgR.jpg)
Nice work!
Finally found the time to remove the every last bit of the undercoating...
(https://i.imgur.com/ohPhGAS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xS6KXR0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Kqsiu7l.jpg)
Why not just sand blast it ?
Quote from: ACUDANUT on October 18, 2019, 10:25:54 PM
Why not just sand blast it ?
It will get blasted, but blasting does not remove the undercoating. To get a clean sandblasted product, you need to remove undercoating first
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on October 19, 2019, 02:33:20 PM
It will get blasted, but blasting does not remove the undercoating. To get a clean sandblasted product, you need to remove undercoating first
Agreed!! Or it will cost you tons more IF the service elects to try it. More man hours.
I just did a '66 B Body with factory under coating. Not my car, I was paid labor. Thankfully it was on a rotisserie and even still it took awhile.
Good luck with sandblast outcome. :cheers:
I finally got back to this Charger. I sent it out to the media blaster...
(https://i.imgur.com/a6eOOrzh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6fBFFJ8h.jpg)
Keep up the good work and don't forget to show us the after effects. :cheers:
The day after I got it back, it got sealed in epoxy. First three pics are bare metal. Last two are in primer
(https://i.imgur.com/o4gTLNIh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yqycUOAh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MWfHpYAh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/g1TwIRUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gdt1p6Th.jpg)
Looks like a winner to me. !!
Looks good. Thread title may need to change to "medium budget" build as you are doing a great deal of work
Quote from: chargerperson on April 26, 2020, 10:40:03 AM
Looks good. Thread title may need to change to "medium budget" build as you are doing a great deal of work
Very true. I have two other Chargers that may take all my resources before I get to this one!
I think you and Kern Dog are in a race now to finish their project first. :cheers:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on April 26, 2020, 08:46:22 PM
I think you and Kern Dog are in a race now to finish their project first. :cheers:
Im sure he will win this one. I have too much going on.
Don't put too many irons in the fire at one time. !!
Quote from: ACUDANUT on April 27, 2020, 09:52:52 PM
Don't put too many irons in the fire at one time. !!
Too late. lol
It seems like you are making real forward progress on all off them too!
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on April 27, 2020, 09:16:03 PM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on April 26, 2020, 08:46:22 PM
I think you and Kern Dog are in a race now to finish their project first. :cheers:
Im sure he will win this one. I am dragging four other Mopar projects along at the same time...a 70 Barracuda, a 68 Charger, a 68 Roadrunner, and a patina'd 68 Charger.
68 Roadrunner with 6.1L hemi, 6 speed, IRS rear suspension..
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/1968-runner-post-w-6-1l-6-speed-irs.137000/page-8
70 Barracuda with late model hemi, 6 speed, Strange 60......sits LOW
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/85958-Heavily-modified-1970-Cuda?highlight=
68 Charger with late model hemi, 6 speed, and Ford 9" (don't hate me!)
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,131677.0.html
68 Charger with mostly original paint and cool patina
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,137423.0.html
You are ambitious! And the RR is painted, so you should have it together and on the road in a few weeks, hahaha.
:coolgleamA: :popcrn: :cheers:
How will you repair the rusted DS quarter?
Quote from: ACUDANUT on April 26, 2020, 08:46:22 PM
I think you and Kern Dog are in a race now to finish their project first. :cheers:
My guess is that while the OP will win in terms of build quality...I will have mine running first. :smilielol:
Quote from: Kern Dog on April 29, 2020, 04:42:47 PM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on April 26, 2020, 08:46:22 PM
I think you and Kern Dog are in a race now to finish their project first. :cheers:
My guess is that while the OP will win in terms of build quality...I will have mine running first. :smilielol:
I'm sure you will finish before me. In fact, I may not even finish it at all. I have three 68's and I really should focus on the other two...
New rear crossmember and rear valance...
(https://i.imgur.com/6KXGapQh.jpg)
New one piece trunk floor...
(https://i.imgur.com/hrLRCVqh.jpg)
fitting a lower patch...
(https://i.imgur.com/eEvSK2Sh.jpg)
I am not a body man, so please excuse my ignorance. What are those bronze colored tags sticking out of the sheet metal. I am guessing they hold the metal panels together. What are the called and who sells them ?? Are they better than sheet metal screws ??
Thanks, love your work.
They are blind grip holders sold by Eastwood Company been using them for 20years, love them.
Blind Grip Holders 1/8" (clecos) pack of 30
https://www.eastwood.com/blind-grip-holders-1-8in-pack-of-30.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&gclid=CjwKCAjwwMn1BRAUEiwAZ_jnEsfGCbK8_twf0vMMsQq_d6Ib-d8H3Q_d5suYWwzMPlL8SWPlTHfDEhoCuGwQAvD_BwE
Floor pans are in....
(https://i.imgur.com/up5HnSYh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eLKVtuAh.jpg)
Before you weld the patch and the real valance get your corners and screw them in place then get everything lined up before you weld anything. Those corners are very tough to install correctly get them mounted with screws and get every thing properly lined up. You will find out if you don't you want those corners to look rite
Very nice. :cheers: You said Floor pans ? It looks like one piece (singular). :shruggy: I bet shipping sucked on that. :eek2:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on May 17, 2020, 09:14:56 AM
Very nice. :cheers: You said Floor pans ? It looks like one piece (singular). :shruggy: I bet shipping sucked on that. :eek2:
I can se a small section of floor pan for rear bench passenger feet after the seatbelt nut hole on tranny hump. In fact that small section seems it's two halfs overlapped on trany hump
( still huge front floor pan LOL )
Yes-those two little corners are such a pain. They will need to get cut/bent/rearranged to make it look right.
The big one piece floorpan is the only way to go in my opinion. The shipping is not much more then shipping the long/thin driver/passenger side patch panels and you save a lot of labor by not welding along both sides of the tunnel. Ill never patch a forward patch panel again. Its just easier and cheaper in the long run to replace the whole thing.
:iagree:
I'll be welding my floorpan in soon as well.
Did you have any issues with fitment?
Mine needs to go forwards some on the passenger side as the threaded seat belt hole is partially covered.
I have straightened the flanges at the firewall which helped but it still needs to go forwards a bit more.
Just wondering if this is a common issue.
Mine is an AMD floor pan.
Cheers.
Quote from: orange383 on May 20, 2020, 10:15:40 AM
I'll be welding my floorpan in soon as well.
Did you have any issues with fitment?
Mine needs to go forwards some on the passenger side as the threaded seat belt hole is partially covered.
I have straightened the flanges at the firewall which helped but it still needs to go forwards a bit more.
Just wondering if this is a common issue.
Mine is an AMD floor pan.
Cheers.
Nothing fits perfectly. It all takes some degree of work to get it to fit. The drain holes don't always line up perfectly so you'll have to get it fitting the best you can and then trim if necessary
Cabin floor spot welds all knocked down and dressed
(https://i.imgur.com/C6LpkP6h.jpg)
Trunk floor is also in now
(https://i.imgur.com/3IOxnjbh.jpg)
After some straightening, the driver's side quarter panel end cap fits greats now. before and after...
(https://i.imgur.com/ep2MWuDh.jpg)
The driver's side quarter also had rust on in front of the rear wheel well. It was patched inside and out...
(https://i.imgur.com/Jlf0eRph.jpg)
When you make a patch like that on the outside of the 1/4
How do you get anything on the back side of the weld to keep it from rusting from the back side out ?
Quote from: 70 sublime on June 08, 2020, 07:45:19 PM
When you make a patch like that on the outside of the 1/4
How do you get anything on the back side of the weld to keep it from rusting from the back side out ?
Two patches get made.... One for the inner sheetmetal and one for the outer skin
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on June 08, 2020, 08:55:05 PM
Quote from: 70 sublime on June 08, 2020, 07:45:19 PM
When you make a patch like that on the outside of the 1/4
How do you get anything on the back side of the weld to keep it from rusting from the back side out ?
Two patches get made.... One for the inner sheetmetal and one for the outer skin
No I mean on your weld you made and ground down on the outside of the 1/4 panel ( looks very nice)
How do you seal up that weld on the back side of it to keep it from starting to rust ?
weld through primer
Nice work, Sir ! :cheers:
Quote from: Kern Dog on June 08, 2020, 10:39:01 PM
Nice work, Sir ! :cheers:
:2thumbs:
Just below the previous patch....also in front of the left rear wheel...
(https://i.imgur.com/gPw7MmUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n59ChNQh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BH9aiBSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9FRjdplh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BPsoeFfh.jpg)
Love this thread, but I'm partial to '68s. ;)
Your friend is doing some good work.
I am trying to get better at stitch welding. My biggest problem is getting the small welds flatter without burning through. I've tried different settings and I still can't get it consistent.
THere was a '68 Charger at the end of one of the Fast and Furious movies....It was a widened body in unfinished form, no paint or primer. This car had extensive metalwork and the job was so well done, no welds were visible. It looked like the car was stamped from one piece of metal. I'd love to have those skills.
I just remembered. They call the car "Maximus"
I love the stance and rear tires on that Charger
4 inch Exhaust ??
Why ???
Quote from: ACUDANUT on June 10, 2020, 09:55:13 PM
4 inch Exhaust ??
Why ???
...for 2,000 hp on race gas....
Right quarter needed some straightening...
(https://i.imgur.com/VfFkDSrl.jpg)
Looks better than mine!
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on June 12, 2020, 08:55:52 PM
Right quarter needed some straightening...
(https://i.imgur.com/VfFkDSrl.jpg)
So how do you "straighten that" Add metal ?
Hammer and dolly work.
Quote from: Kern Dog on June 13, 2020, 11:54:03 AM
Hammer and dolly work.
...and sometimes studs/puller
:2thumbs:
The area under the battery tray was rusty. Used a solid original donor...
(https://i.imgur.com/ZqpfMoml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RL9DrLTl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AmzEyMdl.jpg)
looks good ! nice work :yesnod: :2thumbs: :cheers: :popcrn:
Quote from: tan top on June 18, 2020, 01:38:11 AM
looks good ! nice work :yesnod: :2thumbs: :cheers: :popcrn:
Thanks!
A previous owner cut out part of the passenger side wheel tub...apparently for a patch.
(https://i.imgur.com/DBEAQGAl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/spTuBypl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EfhJJFel.jpg)
The left quarter panel patch was AMD and needed trimming since it was too long-see the first picture.
(https://i.imgur.com/8YPIWkDl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WOt68B6l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pJcw9Ixl.jpg)
Right quarter panel patch...
(https://i.imgur.com/IghPAE5l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1EJoBqll.jpg)
Gas or flex core ? The welds look spotty. Did you weld the entire panel, then grind ?
Quote from: ACUDANUT on June 22, 2020, 02:17:29 PM
Gas or flex core ? The welds look spotty. Did you weld the entire panel, then grind ?
I'll have to ask the guy that did the welding
Rear valance and trunk braces are in...
(https://i.imgur.com/GLauhdjl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XafUCn3l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ld34o9Nl.jpg)
Did you test fit your corners before welding up everything. l didn't and had a tough time installing them and making the seams look rite. :brickwall:
Quote from: nchrome on July 01, 2020, 09:31:16 PM
Did you test fit your corners before welding up everything. l didn't and had a tough time installing them and making the seams look rite. :brickwall:
The corners were test fit...they fit terrible. The corners have to be completely cut/bent to make them work right.
The repro valance corners aren't the problem. It's that so many other large repro panels come together in that area. The quarters, trunkfloor, extensions, etc . . . the differences all stack up.
A few years ago somebody on this site had pics of fitting a repro quarter panel with the solid original valance & corner cap still in place. The repro quarter skin was too big in that area. He shortened the back/bottom end of the lower quarter skin about 1/2" before it fit right. He basically made a vertical pie-cut (big end of the slice of pie at the bottom) and then welded it back together.
Does anyone else remember where that link might be or who posted it? That would be nice to see.
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on July 05, 2020, 07:05:12 AM
Does anyone else remember where that link might be or who posted it? That would be nice to see.
If you bend,twist the rear cross member ends like mine was done from the factory & they fit great with no cutting
Quote from: cdr on July 05, 2020, 10:14:58 AM
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on July 05, 2020, 07:05:12 AM
Does anyone else remember where that link might be or who posted it? That would be nice to see.
If you bend,twist the rear cross member ends like mine was done from the factory & they fit great with no cutting
Charlie recommended this to me and it works!
Quote from: cdr on July 05, 2020, 10:14:58 AM
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on July 05, 2020, 07:05:12 AM
Does anyone else remember where that link might be or who posted it? That would be nice to see.
If you bend,twist the rear cross member ends like mine was done from the factory & they fit great with no cutting
What is this ? :shruggy:
Go to my thread page 30 post #743
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.725.html
Maybe #cdr can explain it better. But from what I remember when these cars came down the assembly line the workers would bend the rear cross-member to get the quarters to fit
Quote from: mopar4don on July 10, 2020, 10:46:48 AM
Go to my thread page 30 post #743
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.725.html
Maybe #cdr can explain it better. But from what I remember when these cars came down the assembly line the workers would bend the rear cross-member to get the quarters to fit
Great pictures Don
Quote from: cdr on July 10, 2020, 01:37:41 PM
Quote from: mopar4don on July 10, 2020, 10:46:48 AM
Go to my thread page 30 post #743
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104414.725.html
Maybe #cdr can explain it better. But from what I remember when these cars came down the assembly line the workers would bend the rear cross-member to get the quarters to fit
Great pictures Don
Thanks!!
Next step is to remove some of the dents, dings, and creases. The right quarter panel was definitely the worst but the dutchman's panel had some big dings and the passenger quarter had a few too.
(https://i.imgur.com/dAxPXBAl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UhOykGUl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UcAZ5t4l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ClhOpyEl.jpg)
Time for some rear window channel rust repair. It's interesting that this charger didn't have one spec of rust in the lower channel. The rear lower corners had a few pinholes. I'm sure that it's because the rear window had been out of the car for 20 plus years. But....there were some small holes in the upper channel.
(https://i.imgur.com/Q1fFNzrl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tqcyx3Xl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e4UwHzwl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bUPPZA2l.jpg)
There were also a few pinholes in the trunk gutters where the forward gutter (dutchman's panel) overlapped with the side gutters
(https://i.imgur.com/2kCuS8il.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/D0y6z4Ql.jpg)
A few more cleanup items on the battery trey area and a big dent on the leading edge of the roof
(https://i.imgur.com/PYNxpATl.jpg)
Back side in bare metal and then in primer...
(https://i.imgur.com/YRQv1eYl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IG3dMDyl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EfeoPwHl.jpg)
The rear valance corners just didn't want to fit. As you can see, they gap on the forward edge and they don't line up with the tail panel character line either. Hopefully this series of pictures can help some future builders.
(https://i.imgur.com/TtW81Vfl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fTxzCeBl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VT6Kglil.jpg)
A section was cut out. The piece was rotated slightly and welded back in. The rotation created a small "pie slice" shaped gap at the forward edge.
(https://i.imgur.com/MXUXcK2l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5mieoLIl.jpg)
Next the rear valance was sliced along the top to again bring the edge out
(https://i.imgur.com/EsAjK3fl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8WjNM3hl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SQov8tql.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KN9CR7Hl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/B80gZESl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2lRlpYWl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ocrrvrxl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SihPK5Fl.jpg)
Great job, mine fit just fine, with the factory assembly line worker bent rear cross member. like I said earlier in this post.
I seam sealed mine, most people dont like that but I do.
Quote from: cdr on August 02, 2020, 11:56:16 AM.....most people dont like that but I do.....
They're just jealous that you have a '68 Charger that's daily driven with cold A/C and looks sinister.
:cheers:
Quote from: VegasCharger on August 03, 2020, 12:21:24 AM
Quote from: cdr on August 02, 2020, 11:56:16 AM.....most people dont like that but I do.....
They're just jealous that you have a '68 Charger that's daily driven with cold A/C and looks sinister.
:cheers:
Thank you !!!!! :coolgleamA:
Love your car also great stance,i seamed sealed mine also ,just left a reveal line to see it.
Got the car back home and cleaned up the doors/fenders I had sitting in the corner. I was a little bored and I wanted to see it look more whole (and I needed the space) so I hung the doors/fenders. Both doors are 1969 doors...I really love the patina'd F6 green paint on that right door...
I'm not sure where to go next on this Charger. I have another 1968 Charger build ahead of this one. Part of me wants to install an AMD 1970 taillight panel and then install all the 1970 parts I've been stock piling. Ive collected 3 grills, a super nice/solid front fenders/hood, nice reupholstered seats and door panels, etc. Since I have another 1968 in the works, this one will probably either be cloned to a 1970 or I may sell it...in the mean time, I'm going to just push it in the corner while I think on it
(https://i.imgur.com/IPqUQtkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8DbgC39h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IqXeZH6h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tQNbXzgh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HneFGHYh.jpg)
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on September 09, 2020, 08:37:37 PM
Got the car back home and cleaned up the doors/fenders I had sitting in the corner. I was a little bored and I wanted to see it look more whole (and I needed the space) so I hung the doors/fenders. Both doors are 1969 doors...I really love the patina'd F6 green paint on that right door...
I'm not sure where to go next on this Charger. I have another 1968 Charger build ahead of this one. Part of me wants to install an AMD 1970 taillight panel and then install all the 1970 parts I've been stock piling. Ive collected 3 grills, a super nice/solid front fenders/hood, nice reupholstered seats and door panels, etc. Since I have another 1968 in the works, this one will probably either be cloned to a 1970 or I may sell it...in the mean time, I'm going to just push it in the corner while I think on it
(https://i.imgur.com/IPqUQtkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8DbgC39h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IqXeZH6h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tQNbXzgh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HneFGHYh.jpg)
Very cool. My 70 Charger has a complete 68 interior. lol
Looks like a nice space to work on cars :2thumbs:
All your spare parts close by
Maybe there is a Bird nose cone beside the dog kennel ??
Quote from: 70 sublime on September 10, 2020, 04:51:29 AM
Looks like a nice space to work on cars :2thumbs:
All your spare parts close by
Maybe there is a Bird nose cone beside the dog kennel ??
You are correct! I actually found that behind a guys shop, just sitting outside...so I made a deal to acquire it! I don't own a super bird...
Looks great. Also, you have a nice garage!
This Charger has been sitting in the corner for too long. Between working fulltime, my 5 kids activities , and getting back into parting out modern SRT8's I've been busy. I finally tossed some suspension underneath the Charger, unstacked the shop. and hauled it in for its VIN inspection. I always do that as soon as I get a car...I just got distracted I guess.
(https://i.imgur.com/IhLnW9Ch.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dnwEKIah.jpg)
Don't be like me. Spend more time on the kids, than cars. Cheers :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on April 16, 2021, 01:31:43 PM
Don't be like me. Spend more time on the kids, than cars. Cheers :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Good advice and a good reminder! I will be thinning the herd by one or two in the near future
They grow up too quick, then they are gone. :'(