Since my survivor 1969 Charger was totaled in December of 2018, I have been wanting another driver quality Charger to drive while my pro touring 1968 Charger is being built. I spent three months on the couch recovering from surgery so I spent a lot of time looking but I didn't get serious until about 6 months ago. I really wanted a B5 or Q5 Charger, but so does everyone else! We all know, most original paint cars seem to be green....IN January I found and bought a really solid R4 Charger out of Texas. It had a cheap repaint but was complete. Not two weeks after buying the R4 Charger, I came across this RR1 Charger just 30 miles from me. It had mostly original paint (with a few spot ins) and some greats options like black vinyl top, white interior, cruise control, rear defrost, power breaks, power steering, AC, 3 speed wiper, etc. It had great patina and the paint was chalky/oxidized but I knew my paint detail guy could do wonders with it. The grill is perfect!! It had been a Kansas car all its life. It spent inside for the last 5 years but was outside quite a while before that.
(https://i.imgur.com/jfDZqLTh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SOMsodvh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EB28oqUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k3igPSFh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WcOT94wh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nVXPUfTh.jpg)
It spent one more night outside while I cleaned up and reorganized the shop.
(https://i.imgur.com/ecopsxMh.jpg)
Step 1...Get it situated in the shop and take picture...check
(https://i.imgur.com/T6vQQRxh.jpg)
Step 2...remove seats and remove the nasty carpet so I can see condition...At least the interior is all there!
(https://i.imgur.com/JVensLzh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Wi85w0ah.jpg)
The floors are pretty nice. I spent a few hours with a braided wire cup wheel. here is the before picture...
(https://i.imgur.com/IExtn3sh.jpg)
And after....
(https://i.imgur.com/9u47QBRh.jpg)
Step 3...Call up a buddy who does detailing and ask him to schedule me in. He came over with a bunch of different pads and polishes and did some test patches.
(https://i.imgur.com/hIOIQgZh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fRn4aM7h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tb6m3pGh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/R4E0oMBh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CP4Hguuh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cegpbMph.jpg)
For some reason, the patina on the hood and decklid remind me of the marbling in a ribeye steak....hence the nickname. I knew it would look cool but I didn't realize HOW COOL. I never thought I'd like burgundy so much. I think that the primer shining through the thin burgundy really brightens up the color.
(https://i.imgur.com/35J1fPxh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fjJOfFqh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GOvwTHjh.jpg)
I will get some pictures of it outside in the sunlight.....with better wheels!
More to come...saved
Nice! :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/proxy/03GITpOG896MMB_AvH_C3uCc9a2B_UU3pfNfAjGky9qMhRvJzAKT0sAmyw0YsIAGzS8E1pIVVP1XmmVUp2oZWMKcpYkiOhLMWCJaq-besmOznu36AwcmrXzV1L9qC-Jrk6HZ8FamnuoxtT_sZJ7JTuTk9RdT45DGq-o)
Nice save. Very cool car. Love the patina.
Sweet ride! :cheers:
That is great. I'm impressed with how solid the car seems to be. SCORE ! :2thumbs:
"burgundy" is AWESOME :drool5: based on the decklid, it's an early car - what are its other spec's?
Nice! Been following the detailing progress on FB as well.
Sweet car! Also, congrats on kickin' the "C" word! :2thumbs:
Quote from: Birdflu on March 29, 2020, 02:15:41 PM
Sweet car! Also, congrats on kickin' the "C" word! :2thumbs:
Thanks guys! I'm excited to get it on the road!
Nice find and good luck with this one.
In remarkably decent condition considering it's a Kansas car (mine started in Nebraska, so I understand the challenges). I'm also surprised by how good the burgundy looks as well. Because so-many of the cars have been repainted and color-changed (either red or black) by now, almost any other original color looks kind-of "fresh" to me now. The fact that it's original paint only makes that seem more "crisp" for lack of a better description. Since I didn't see any mention of the driveline, I'm guessing a 318 auto?
Also, I'll bite. What are the visual clues on the decklid that helps you know it's an early car? Mine's a very late car so I suppose all I really need to do is go and look and compare it to the shot of the bottom of the decklid. Maybe later today.
Quote from: lloyd3 on March 29, 2020, 03:01:03 PM
In remarkably decent condition considering it's a Kansas car (mine started in Nebraska, so I understand the challenges). I'm also surprised by how good the burgundy looks as well. Because so-many of the cars have been repainted and color-changed (either red or black) by now, almost any other original color looks kind-of "fresh" to me now. The fact that it's original paint only makes that seem more "crisp" for lack of a better description. Since I didn't see any mention of the driveline, I'm guessing a 318 auto?
Also, I'll bite. What are the visual clues on the decklid that helps you know it's an early car? Mine's a very late car so I suppose all I really need to do is go and look and compare it to the shot of the bottom of the decklid. Maybe later today.
Kansas cars are usually pretty solid if they lived south of I-70 and not in the KC metro area. This one was a 383 and auto
Ok, so...at least a big block. Frankly, I really like 383s (I've had lots of them). FWIW: I was learning paint correction last summer and found it to be remarkably effective on more modern vehicles. It might very-well be worth you time here to try it on this latest acquisition?
:2thumbs: :popcrn:
Wow what a difference! Glad to see you back in the saddle.
So how are you feeling? All good?
looks like the '67 steering wheel also, does it have the red/white/blue door pad emblems? can you post a picture of that tire pressure decal?
Wow, I'd say that was quite lucky, but seeing as this isn't your first survivor, I have to conclude you have a skill when it comes to digging these things up!
And amazing how the paint came up.
Damn impressive on cleaning her up
Sorry if i missed it but does she run/drive?
Obv gonna need a good going over. Brakes. Fluid etc
Good job dude :drool5:
6bblgt: Gracious of you Sir. Thank you for the primer on deck lids! I had to look at it a couple of times before the differences became apparent.
Quote from: jefferson on March 29, 2020, 06:54:38 PM
Damn impressive on cleaning her up
Sorry if i missed it but does she run/drive?
Obv gonna need a good going over. Brakes. Fluid etc
Good job dude :drool5:
it does not run. I didn't get a drivetrain but I've got a mild 440 and auto to go through and install
Quote from: kent on March 29, 2020, 04:42:04 PM
Wow what a difference! Glad to see you back in the saddle.
So how are you feeling? All good?
I'm feeling really good. I have been working out to build strength. My back, chest, legs, and biceps/triceps all came back fast/strong but since the surgeon unhooked all the back (rotator cuff) muscles that tie into the shoulder and sewed them back into the cadaver's attachments, the geometry/tensions aren't quite right. As a result, I can't lift my right arm above shoulder height and I don't think it's going to come back since i did 9 months of therapy (3 days a weeK) to get this far. To illustrate, I have worked up to being able to do unassisted 4 pull-ups (although left arm does about 60%), but I have to use my left arm to lift my arm up to the bar to grab it. It makes working under a car or under a dash quite difficult as I'm basically one handed.....But I am NOT COMPLAINING!! I'm happy to be alive and to have the range I have. Thanks for asking!
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on March 29, 2020, 08:38:09 PM
I'm feeling really good. I have been working out to build strength. My back, chest, legs, and biceps/triceps all came back fast/strong but since the surgeon unhooked all the back (rotator cuff) muscles that tie into the shoulder and sewed them back into the cadaver's attachments, the geometry/tensions aren't quite right. As a result, I can't lift my right arm above shoulder height and I don't think it's going to come back since i did 9 months of therapy (3 days a weeK) to get this far. To illustrate, I have worked up to being able to do unassisted 4 pull-ups (although left arm does about 60%), but I have to use my left arm to lift my arm up to the bar to grab it. It makes working under a car or under a dash quite difficult as I'm basically one handed.....But I am NOT COMPLAINING!! I'm happy to be alive and to have the range I have. Thanks for asking!
That's absolutely the best way to look at it! Congrats on the recovery! And still being around to talk about it!
Nice find!! :2thumbs:
Great nickname.
Is it 383-4? H code? That's what mine is.
Glad to see back. :cheers:
Question, any chance you'd be willing to sell the trailer hitch that came with your '68??
Lime green arrows in pic is what I would need. Bumper support bar (U shaped), hitch and rear frame rail crossover bar.
Thanks
I haven't decided what to do with the hitch. I actually thought it was pretty cool and that I might keep it....we shall see
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on March 31, 2020, 09:17:59 PM
I haven't decided what to do with the hitch. I actually thought it was pretty cool and that I might keep it....we shall see
I want to get one to tow a trailer to the swap meets and still be able to take the Charger. I really want a period correct looking hitch like yours in the pic. Sure I could get one fabbed, but I like the nostalgic look. Even if it requires you to drill holes in your bumper. I have 2 rear bumper cores if and when I land a bumper hitch.
:cheers:
You check eBay? Shipping is high but they are out there.
Congrats! :cheers: looks amazing!
Looks like a good solid project car, glad to hear that you are doing well.
That's got a great look to it. Are you going to clear it? What's the plans for wheels & interior?
You got some great builds going on. The roadrunner over on protouring is looking awesome too!
Quote from: WHITE AND RED 69 on April 02, 2020, 09:17:34 PM
That's got a great look to it. Are you going to clear it? What's the plans for wheels & interior?
You got some great builds going on. The roadrunner over on protouring is looking awesome too!
Thanks! The roadrunner is getting some major attention right now. Trying to make a big push on it this year. I'm really excited to drive that thing.
For now, the Charger is just getting some wax and I'll wait to see how it holds up. I am currently on a 4 week furlough from work so I am getting some stuff done on the car. I stripped the roof to bare metal and I removed the rear window to clean up the rear window channel, replace trim clips, patch some holes, etc.
Awesome find, love the look :2thumbs:
Just my opinion but I think clear coating patina ruins the look. Takes it from looking authentic to fake. Agree with just waxing it.
Nice project...it does look like a ribeye! Looking forward to seeing the progress!
I tried to remove the vinyl top glue with 3M adhesive remover and acetone but the glue was not coming off so out came the DA.
(https://i.imgur.com/Zjskaa5l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nPmsjcQl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4Wmwh35l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gbp7evQl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UaVUbb7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M0M7eoYl.jpg)
Quote from: INTMD8 on April 05, 2020, 01:06:11 PM
Awesome find, love the look :2thumbs:
Just my opinion but I think clear coating patina ruins the look. Takes it from looking authentic to fake. Agree with just waxing it.
Exactly. For instance:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,114356.msg1635413.html#msg1635413
Do I see lead in the roof-quarter seam instead of the normal cheap Bondo?
My 74 was filled with lead... well my car was assembled in Vzla thought
Quote from: Mytur Binsdirti on April 12, 2020, 07:29:24 AM
Do I see lead in the roof-quarter seam instead of the normal cheap Bondo?
You are correct. I've seen that several times recently. The fender tag options were burgundy paint, black vinyl top, and white interior....so it came with vi yl top from the factory.
Is this an early car? Was '68 the first year for vinyl tops? I wonder if some bean counter came up with using Bondo after examining the process.
if you have found bondo on anything from Ma Mopar before 1972 somebody else put it there, assembly line only used lead until 72 after that I have no info.
Quote from: 69 500 on April 13, 2020, 07:51:15 AM
if you have found bondo on anything from Ma Mopar before 1972 somebody else put it there, assembly line only used lead until 72 after that I have no info.
That statement is not correct, I have had atleast 50 1968 to 1970 Chargers that had factory bondo on the roof seams underneath of factory installed vynal tops.
My April built '68 had Bondo in the seam. I was the one who removed the factory vinyl top when I started the restoration
My 71 had bondo on its seem. That stuff was a pain to get out!
Only lead I have ever seen is at the bottom of windshield post to the cowl area
Awesome car!
Too late now but a product called "Goof Off" will take that glue off the roof. Not to be confused with "Goo Gone" which is useless. Lighter fluid works too but it has some hazards... ;)
My blue (early) and bronze 68s have leaded seams. My black 1968 (late, built in May) had bondo.
Troy
Quote from: Troy on April 13, 2020, 01:55:52 PM
Awesome car!
Too late now but a product called "Goof Off" will take that glue off the roof. Not to be confused with "Goo Gone" which is useless. Lighter fluid works too but it has some hazards... ;)
My blue (early) and bronze 68s have leaded seams. My black 1968 (late, built in May) had bondo.
Troy
We are only talking about original vinyl top cars, right? I think it's understood that all painted roof cars were leaded, and generally thought that all vinyl top cars were Bondoed at the roof seams.
Burgundy with white interior is gorgeous. Paint is coming out beautiful as well. Nice find.
Goo Gone has it's uses and sun baked dry rooftop stuff is not one of them. I use it (Goo Gone) all the time to remove old adhesive from interior components and stuff that's more delicate. Pinball parts too. Goof Off is more aggressive and can strip paint, I've seen plenty of folks use the wrong stuff and destroy pinball playfield artwork.
The trunk floor had a big hole in the middle where water had collected. I spent about 6 hours cutting out the majority of the trunk floor and grinding spot welds.
(https://i.imgur.com/pgF7B7kl.jpg)
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on March 29, 2020, 09:36:25 AM
Since my survivor 1969 Charger was totaled in December of 2018, I have been wanting another driver quality Charger to drive while my pro touring 1968 Charger is being built. I spent three months on the couch recovering from surgery so I spent a lot of time looking but I didn't get serious until about 6 months ago. I really wanted a B5 or Q5 Charger, but so does everyone else! We all know, most original paint cars seem to be green....IN January I found and bought a really solid R4 Charger out of Texas. It had a cheap repaint but was complete. Not two weeks after buying the R4 Charger, I came across this RR1 Charger just 30 miles from me. It had mostly original paint (with a few spot ins) and some greats options like black vinyl top, white interior, cruise control, rear defrost, power breaks, power steering, AC, 3 speed wiper, etc. It had great patina and the paint was chalky/oxidized but I knew my paint detail guy could do wonders with it. The grill is perfect!! It had been a Kansas car all its life. It spent inside for the last 5 years but was outside quite a while before that.
(https://i.imgur.com/jfDZqLTh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SOMsodvh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EB28oqUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k3igPSFh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WcOT94wh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nVXPUfTh.jpg)
It spent one more night outside while I cleaned up and reorganized the shop.
(https://i.imgur.com/ecopsxMh.jpg)
awesome :coolgleamA: :2thumbs: love that color :yesnod:
Quote from: 375instroke on April 15, 2020, 02:50:17 AM
Quote from: Troy on April 13, 2020, 01:55:52 PM
Awesome car!
Too late now but a product called "Goof Off" will take that glue off the roof. Not to be confused with "Goo Gone" which is useless. Lighter fluid works too but it has some hazards... ;)
My blue (early) and bronze 68s have leaded seams. My black 1968 (late, built in May) had bondo.
Troy
We are only talking about original vinyl top cars, right? I think it's understood that all painted roof cars were leaded, and generally thought that all vinyl top cars were Bondoed at the roof seams.
Yes, vinyl top cars. It seems (at least some) early 68s got lead either way but I imagine they stopped that for cost/time reasons.
Troy
I'm that guy that keeps pulling the string when it comes to his cars....
I started knocking undercoating off the bottom of the car. I wanted to stop at the seam where the rear passenger foot well pans meet the sheetmetal under the rear seat, but the vibration of the needle scaler would knock loose undercoating up to 12" ahead of where I was working so I ended up removing all the undercoating. The needle scaler has a way of finding the soft spots. The cabin floor pan had looked so good prior to removing the undercoating but now showed pin holes in both front floor pan troughs where water in collects. The worst damage was under the passenger seat, which seems very odd. I called 521 Restorations and ordered a full set of cabin floor pans. It's overkill for sure, but I've come to hate floorpan patches when I can remove and replace the whole cabin floor so easily. Tomorrow I start removing the cabin floor pans...
(https://i.imgur.com/o0aA3Uil.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9Rwaem0l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YiUIfrtl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SPP9sCql.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nq5TJY6l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EYNnNqLl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GQCMecal.jpg)
Well, the day got busy and I only had 1.5 hours to work on the floorpans but the right air chisel makes quick progress of the sheetmetal removal...I still need to go back and remove all the spot welds/sheetmetal strips.
(https://i.imgur.com/pX5gDlIl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Lra4tpDl.jpg)
Do you crank down the torsion bars when you remove/install the floor?
Quote from: GreenMachine on June 16, 2020, 12:43:12 AM
Do you crank down the torsion bars when you remove/install the floor?
The engine isn't in the engine bay so there isn't much weight/torque on the box at the moment. When the the floor pans are welded in, the car will be up on stands so the torsion crossmember isn't loaded
I pulled the dash frame yesterday so I could clean the window channel and firewall a bit and found a Chrysler inspection tag on the A/C box. I thought that was pretty cool. I ground down a bunch of spot welds in the cabin and trunk. I was surprised and pleased with the overall condition of the wheel tub lips. They were all solid except for where the two tub halves meet at the very back.
(https://i.imgur.com/A9ZnJN6l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fMMJ9mCl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u57ErWYl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dTmJ0UAl.jpg)
:2thumbs: :popcrn:
I've been putting off removing the undercoating from the rear wheel tubs because its such a nasty job but I finally started in on it yesterday. Small areas of the undercoating had fallen out over the years. This way I can seal and undercoat everything from the firewall back.
I used a $30 ebay needle scaler and if you haven't used one to remove undercoating, you really need to. It FLIES off....which is why its so messy!
(https://i.imgur.com/jSMpxlml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HostSe5l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HhGUIP3l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/egoPIwrl.jpg)
Can you post a pic of this Needle Scaler? THANKS, LEON.
Here's a picture. If you go to ebay and search for needle scaler, it will come up. I just buy the cheapest one. It will get you through 1 or 2 whole cars if you oil it.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on June 27, 2020, 04:13:08 PM
Can you post a pic of this Needle Scaler? THANKS, LEON.
(https://i.imgur.com/LPfFdiDl.jpg)
Last week I bought one too and tested it on a panel. That thing works! :2thumbs:
When I posted up my experience with a needle scalar I was warned that undercoating has asbestos in it. It sure does a great (and fast) job though!
Troy
Quote from: Troy on June 29, 2020, 05:59:05 PM
When I posted up my experience with a needle scalar I was warned that undercoating has asbestos in it. It sure does a great (and fast) job though!
Troy
Yikes! I sure hope not. I always wear a filtered mask but that stuff covers me...and I've stripped undercoating on 5 cars now...
Since removing the rear bumper, the oxidized paint that was behind the bumper has been annoying me. Sounds stupid...but its polished now!
(https://i.imgur.com/RuVBeYOl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/du2vQP7l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/909EaAol.jpg)
Not stupid, I think I would of Polished it too. :2thumbs:
I'm finally getting back on this one. I am going through the dash now. I cleaned up the dash pads....so nasty. Just cleaned them and used saddle soap to condition them. They turned out better then I expected.
(https://i.imgur.com/tLhCXY4h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aDjcjNdh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fybLi7bh.jpg)
keep up the good work!
Holy crap....That looks a lot better!
Very impressive!
Awesome car. I enjoy following your progress.
Great car keep up the good work and pictures of progress.
keep up the good work
Carsten
Not sure if it was the saddle soap, or elbow grease that did more, but the pads turned out really nice!
A big push was started so I can hopefully drive it in the spring/summer of 2021. a week ago I tossed some wheels on it, rolled it outside, blew off a bunch of dirt/dust/rust, and took some pics before I transported it to a friend's shop, where he will do some rust repair, weld in new floors, and paint the roof. It hadn't been out in the sun since it was polished up!
(https://i.imgur.com/KukPdqnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fvjVhhFh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vAENiDLh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0OeIDX4h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wmug7oFh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fKFotbAh.jpg)
This first issue was a weird one: it looks as though the the factory let this Charger leave with voids/gaps in the joint between the top of the right forward pillar and the roof skin. The vinyl top didn't help things any and the top forward corner of the windshield channel rusted through in several places. It was the only spot around the front window. Before and after pics showing the patches...
(https://i.imgur.com/UXvlUrGh.jpg)
The right rear pillar was puffing out at the bottom of the quarter to roof joint/seam. The bottom of the lead joint was melted out to see what was needed. The rusty area was cut out and replaced with a fabricated patch. Before and after picture...
(https://i.imgur.com/atg3Db2h.jpg)
Woah!!! holy smokes that looks fantastic. Great job on that paint! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :popcrn:
This Charger had quite a few hail dents...nearly all the roof dings/dents have been removed.
(https://i.imgur.com/kpNmfWTh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TwnQqM7h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vqX27O9h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hmt2yFlh.jpg)
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on December 09, 2020, 06:45:29 PM
This Charger had quite a few hail dents...nearly all the roof dings/dents have been removed.
Hammer and dolly work or some other method?
[quote
Hammer and dolly work or some other method?
[/quote]
several methods:
1. Hammers/dollies
2. spoons
3. stud guns/pullers
4. shrinking disc
The Charger came with white seats from the factory so when I removed the white seats from the car and found the broadcast sheet for a much earlier 1968 Charger, I was very disappointed. But i contacted the guy who I bought it from and he gave me the name a previous owner. After several weeks of trying to set up a date to meet, it finally happened. His parents bought the car in 1969 when it was only one year old. He told me he had the original seats in his barn. The charger had a harness fire and he had removed them due to the smoke/soot on them (I think they will clean up). The barn had a dirt/gravel floor but fortunately the seats had been sitting on the trunk of a Satellite. I flipped the seat over and the broadcast sheet was there! It was bunched and brittle but mostly there. Together we extracted the sheet and I took it home where I flattened and laminated it. I also struck a deal on the original front and rear seats. More pics of those later...Here are pics of the broadcast sheet.
(https://i.imgur.com/FZ6M45kh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y2oFMMTh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YDcqWiAh.jpg)
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on December 09, 2020, 09:58:50 PM
[quote
Hammer and dolly work or some other method?
several methods:
1. Hammers/dollies
2. spoons
3. stud guns/pullers
4. shrinking disc
[/quote]
Thank you. I would love to learn how to finesse metal like the experts can. :2thumbs:
The guy who had the broadcast sheet came across some cool family pictures that the Charger was in so he texted me some pictures. The snowy picture was from the "Blizzard of 1971" (in Wichita, Ks) and the camping picture was from 1972. Notice the trailer that's hooked up in the camping picture. I love this kind of history!
(https://i.imgur.com/V3jy6hTh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GsIPSPFh.jpg)
Thank you for posting this. I keep looking at this transformation and have enjoyed it even if I'm not posting a lot to let you know.
It is appreciated. The recent pictures are fantastic. I have some of my car with a trailer and also remember sitting in it while camping as a kid during a particularly bad storm.
:2thumbs:
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on December 15, 2020, 07:10:28 PM
The guy who had the broadcast sheet came across some cool family pictures that the Charger was in so he texted me some pictures. The snowy picture was from the "Blizzard of 1971" (in Wichita, Ks) and the camping picture was from 1972. Notice the trailer that's hooked up in the camping picture. I love this kind of history!
(https://i.imgur.com/V3jy6hTh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GsIPSPFh.jpg)
:o awesome ! love at back in back in the day pictures of our chargers ! thanks for posting :cheers:
The Dutchman's panel was removed.....the plenum underneath also needs replaced...
(https://i.imgur.com/cvSaecAh.jpg)
So it got removed also.
(https://i.imgur.com/gLmHxBRh.jpg)
The roof gutters were media blasted and cleaned up nicely.
(https://i.imgur.com/7EMtw7Ph.jpg)
And roof was sealed in epoxy
(https://i.imgur.com/15TDfM6h.jpg)
Ya know that "plenum" is such a odd thing, I can't figure why/what it was for? :shruggy:
I think it was just to add rigidity/bracing between the rear window lower frame, the forward trunk gutter, and the Dutchman's panel. Even with it The Dutchman's panel still flexes/oil cans quite a bit.
"Plenum" is an inaccurate term as it refers to a HVAC system component. IT is a rather elaborate means to support the Dutchman panel and trunk gutter.
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on January 23, 2021, 09:51:51 PM
The Dutchman's panel was removed.....the plenum underneath also needs replaced...
(https://i.imgur.com/cvSaecAh.jpg)
So it got removed also.
(https://i.imgur.com/gLmHxBRh.jpg)
Hi Kelsey
Your doing really good on the car!
Say I assume you will be replacing your deck filler panel with one from AMD?
Did you know these panels are short in length by 1/4 inch?
I have links here and moparts and FBBO looking for input on how everyone is making them work.
Could you post some pics of how you install it?
You are correct the AMD panel is about 1/4" short. If you look at the pictures, the flange from the old panel was left in place with about a 1/4" of the original panel. It can either be butt welded or you can can cut the new panel and add A 1/4 strip...which seems like a lot more work.
This car had lots of door dings down the side and hail dings on the roof, deckled, and hood. My PDR guy I've used for the last 7 years retired so I found a new guy and sent the passenger side door and deckled out for a test run. He did a nice job!
Before..
(https://i.imgur.com/caN5pk4h.jpg)
After...
(https://i.imgur.com/ZDiQL5dh.jpg)
The door after...
(https://i.imgur.com/zH7P5Unh.jpg)
That's awesome work those dents.
Quote from: orange383 on February 01, 2021, 08:25:00 AM
That's awesome work those dents.
:iagree:
I have a P38 Range Rover which could need somebody with those skills for roof and hood dent fixes LOL
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on February 01, 2021, 10:32:18 AM
Quote from: orange383 on February 01, 2021, 08:25:00 AM
That's awesome work those dents.
:iagree:
I have a P38 Range Rover which could need somebody with those skills for roof and hood dent fixes LOL
A good PDR guy is super valuable! I just got the hood back and it looks great!
(https://i.imgur.com/NfYizfOh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SCRkBIZh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jxsVCzZh.jpg)
This is a great thread! Also, that's amazing you found the build sheet in the second owner's barn.
Question for original poster - sorry, if I missed this, but is the current burgundy paint still the original that your detailing friend buffed?
Or is it new paint?
Would you be willing to share the method and tools of removing the oxidization? I have a 68 with original paint and I basically want to do this (link below), but am wondering if there's a better way...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8v5ssdQ0WQ
Quote from: BrokenHero on February 03, 2021, 07:52:30 PM
This is a great thread! Also, that's amazing you found the build sheet in the second owner's barn.
Question for original poster - sorry, if I missed this, but is the current burgundy paint still the original that your detailing friend buffed?
Or is it new paint?
Would you be willing to share the method and tools of removing the oxidization? I have a 68 with original paint and I basically want to do this (link below), but am wondering if there's a better way...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8v5ssdQ0WQ
It's mostly (90-95%) original paint. My detailing buddy said he used Meguiars m110 compound and m210 polish, compounding with wool and finishing with a foam pad.
Cool, thanks!
Nice work. Thanks for the updates.
Quote from: 6bblgt on March 29, 2020, 01:07:51 PM
"burgundy" is AWESOME :drool5: based on the decklid, it's an early car - what are its other spec's?
How can you tell it´s an early car with a view on the decklid?
Quote from: Rubberduck on February 04, 2021, 05:49:08 AM
Quote from: 6bblgt on March 29, 2020, 01:07:51 PM
"burgundy" is AWESOME :drool5: based on the decklid, it's an early car - what are its other spec's?
How can you tell it´s an early car with a view on the decklid?
Earlier deck lids had the webbing on the inside like the hood with the open spaces between the shapes and later ones were all one panel with no open holes between the shapes
The two piece trunk floor is in place!
(https://i.imgur.com/eh5lFfEh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ijlz8AMh.jpg)
Quote from: Rubberduck on February 04, 2021, 05:49:08 AM
Quote from: 6bblgt on March 29, 2020, 01:07:51 PM
"burgundy" is AWESOME :drool5: based on the decklid, it's an early car - what are its other spec's?
How can you tell it´s an early car with a view on the decklid?
they are bonded together like hoods , the early ones you can see the glue on the inside of the lids
(https://i.imgur.com/rMUuHgSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0sONVFhh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JBcRFTUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/so552M6h.jpg)
Rear filler panel support and rear filler panel are now installed. The rear filler panel fit better then anticipated. The flanges that are spot welded together needed pulled/clamped together but I am pleased with the fit overall. The first two pictures are of the real filler panel just resting in place. The rest are after its welded in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/pcj7dDx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hbob7AL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ROfOfwA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zLOfjAM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m1Ra2Q0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mOMF1lO.jpg)
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on February 16, 2021, 10:05:57 AM
Rear filler panel support and rear filler panel are now installed. The rear filler panel fit better then anticipated. The flanges that are spot welded together needed pulled/clamped together but I am pleased with the fit overall. The first two pictures are of the real filler panel just resting in place. The rest are after its welded in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/Hbob7AL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ROfOfwA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m1Ra2Q0.jpg)
Did you trim the drivers side gutter lip?
Also what are your trunk lid gaps?
Nothing had to be trimmed on the gutters or filler panel. Since the quarters weren't messed with, the gaps are all the same as they were.
Looks awesome.
Assuming two piece trunk pan is the only route if you aren't replacing quarters?
I may have missed it, but are you going to try and duplicate the patina on that rear panel?
Maybe could have a photo scanned and vinyl wrap it
Seeing the dutch panel fitting that well on a car with original rear quarter panels,makes me think the dutch panel probably isn't the issue with the panel coming up short,maybe the repro rear quarter panels are where the issue is.
Quote from: chargervert on February 17, 2021, 09:18:13 PM
Seeing the dutch panel fitting that well on a car with original rear quarter panels,makes me think the dutch panel probably isn't the issue with the panel coming up short,maybe the repro rear quarter panels are where the issue is.
I believe you are correct. Im guessing I just haven't learned that before because people usually just replace both quarters and dutch panel at the same time....compounding the errors
Cabin floor pan is in place. The insides of the subframe rails were treated with POR15.
(https://i.imgur.com/lAtw2zx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/065CKCW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OdZwQeL.jpg)
It feels great to make progress, huh? :2thumbs:
Looks really nice. Can't wait to see more updates and pics.
The doors were pulled in order to rebuild the door hinges. Once the driver's door came off, I was a bit frustrated. My best guess is that the poor leading of the upper pillars allowed water to run down the pillars, which rusted out this area below the upper hinge. I called 521 Restorations and ordered up a driver's side post/pillar. It's so weird how such a solid car has rust in such odd places.
(https://i.imgur.com/n7DoxgSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qqeai84.jpg)
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on March 01, 2021, 08:46:13 PM
The doors were pulled in order to rebuild the door hinges. Once the driver's door came off, I was a bit frustrated. My best guess is that the poor leading of the upper pillars allowed water to run down the pillars, which rusted out this area below the upper hinge. I called 521 Restorations and ordered up a driver's side post/pillar. It's so weird how such a solid car has rust in such odd places.
(https://i.imgur.com/n7DoxgSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qqeai84.jpg)
So it looks like you sectioned in the outer part of the pillar?
Yes, just sectioned it in, which will be easier to blend/hide later. It's like pulling a string on a sweater....it just keeps going. Here's the passenger side. It was also super disappointing to see the first time. But an original donor section was used and I think it turned out well.
(https://i.imgur.com/l1cuXkCh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0xfm1Gb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sNjspvF.jpg)
Nice job, it looks good. :popcrn:
Right rear valance corner was repaired and console brackets were installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/hORYlthh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CUtxAdch.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WAEx09Nh.jpg)
Rear window corner patches and welding up the rear window staple holes...finally done with sheetmetal repair. Bodywork starts soon.
(https://i.imgur.com/kKVJ6HE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iFRvwDw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t42x2RZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ilPlXoF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CJkGvOr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Eyahnqd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9aSGM8e.jpg)
Great thread!
Is there a wax/sealant you or your detailing buddy recommends after the buffing with the compound and wool pad? I'm getting some good results with a similar process and want to keep them.
Thanks!
Quote from: BrokenHero on March 13, 2021, 12:57:06 PM
Great thread!
Is there a wax/sealant you or your detailing buddy recommends after the buffing with the compound and wool pad? I'm getting some good results with a similar process and want to keep them.
Thanks!
There isn't a sealant on it.
:coolgleamA: looking good ! nice work :yesnod: :2thumbs: :cheers:
Cool thanks!
(https://i.imgur.com/nv9uwSQh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5v6WHqPh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/h2mE8Y3h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m9MVrBSh.jpg)
It seems that with the car torn down this far, a full body and paint job makes the most sense.
Nothing about this hobby makes sense.
Quote from: Kern Dog on March 25, 2021, 03:28:03 AM
It seems that with the car torn down this far, a full body and paint job makes the most sense.
Still wouldn't make sense to me. I have a couple other cars that seemed like just a bit more work to completely repaint it....but it's a HUGE step. This isn't nearly as torn down as it looks. Having started over on three cars, this one stays patina'd.
All the filler work is done and the trim has been test fitted.
(https://i.imgur.com/KKRWQZkh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/i9tWYIwh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TG6ybXYh.jpg)
Considering all the Michigan Rust Buckets I've worked on those Floors would be considered pretty solid here, mainly because it still had floors. :smilielol:
Quote from: hemi-hampton on April 02, 2021, 09:35:29 PM
Considering all the Michigan Rust Buckets I've worked on those Floors would be considered pretty solid here, mainly because it still had floors. :smilielol:
I hear you. Sometimes I wonder why I cut those floors out but in the end I'm still glad I did. I will be happier with a completely new/flawless bottom side. I just can't leave things alone. LOL
Epoxy sealed
(https://i.imgur.com/46ISWDwh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/p8PI2CMh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hDxqRbBh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/n8Xsd4hh.jpg)
Score! :2thumbs:
Pillars have been spotted in, door hinges have been rebuilt, and doors have been hung (and they close so nicely now). Now that the doors are in place, it makes me appreciate the work the PDR guy did to remove the dings!
(https://i.imgur.com/ikG9bkd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gH4sxtv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gnH6C3P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cpSPJfK.jpg)
:2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Tinted UPOL raptor liner pics.
(https://i.imgur.com/aMqWBvf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QanI3wC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kuUrhLH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zCjxHjN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/M7MoyNX.jpg)
I know it isn't factory correct but I DO like that textured floor, even in the trunk. :2thumbs:
Bottom side has been undercoated....took two full gallons!
(https://i.imgur.com/9cboxpj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ba7qwD7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eWDDciz.jpg)
The textured Trunk makes me Cringe :rotz: :icon_smile_dissapprove: :shruggy: :ahum: :coocoo: :badidea: :image_294343: :cussing: :argue: >:( :puke:
Quote from: hemi-hampton on April 27, 2021, 09:27:37 PM
The textured Trunk makes me Cringe :rotz: :icon_smile_dissapprove: :shruggy: :ahum: :coocoo: :badidea: :image_294343: :cussing: :argue: >:( :puke:
Good thing it's not yours, right? LOL. If you have that strong of a reaction for some undercoating on the trunk floor, you REALLY won't like any of my other Mopar builds...
1968 Roadrunner
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/124397-1968-Roadrunner-post-6-1L-hemi-6-speed-and-IRS?highlight=
1968 Charger
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/127727-1968-Charger-w-6-1L-6-speed-and-RMS-AlterKtion-4-link?highlight=
1970 Barracuda
https://www.pro-touring.com/threads/85958-Heavily-modified-1970-Cuda?highlight=
Trunk gutters and rear filler panel have been painted. Rear filler panel was deliberately sprayed thin in areas, to mimic the patina of the original filler panel. I'm pleased with the color matching
(https://i.imgur.com/PDMtakU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4fwBSgQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zFJy23y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hyVnH9Z.jpg)
Nice work :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Ribeye looking good. :cheers:
Quote from: VegasCharger on May 05, 2021, 12:42:33 AM
Nice work :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Ribeye looking good. :cheers:
Thanks!
Since the PDR guy took out most of the door dings, my paint buddy has been wanting to take a shot at polishing the original paint. I was doubtful it could be improved much but I was WRONG! Look at the light reflections in these pictures!
(https://i.imgur.com/7p9JI4u.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0ryiysT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OnVizDJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iOkJUua.jpg)
The top was painted last night!
(https://i.imgur.com/ntB0C1P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/E7WKD4M.jpg)
I guess you wouldn't like my Trunks. :shruggy:
I can appreciate a glossy painted trunk...but the point is this is my build thread and you telling me how bad undercoating looks in the trunk or how you would do something different is pointless/useless in my thread. It's a patina'd mostly original paint charger...and I'm building it how I want it. I'm not into concourse restorations; I prefer to own modified Mopars. I don't get on anyone else's build thread here and say anything looks bad...it's just tacky.
Progress looks good! You have a nice workspace as well. :cheers:
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on May 15, 2021, 09:25:39 PM
I can appreciate a glossy painted trunk...but the point is this is my build thread and you telling me how bad undercoating looks in the trunk or how you would do something different is pointless/useless in my thread. It's a patina'd mostly original paint charger...and I'm building it how I want it. I'm not into concourse restorations; I prefer to own modified Mopars. I don't get on anyone else's build thread here and say anything looks bad...it's just tacky.
OK, The only one reason I said I didn't like it, because some day some one like me is probably going to have to spends weeks in there trying to chisel that out of there because down the road someday someone would want it Restored with a shiny Trunk. Having spent a week before trying to scrape out Undercoat from inside a Trunk on a car that someone thought would be a good idea to hide the rust for resale it's not Fun. It Looks nice, I just cringed at the idea of having to remove it. LEON.
While I don't agree with everything the OP is doing on this build, it appears that the skill level of the work is great.
I've had build threads here and on other forums too. Some people jump in to offer their opinions, welcome or otherwise. It is the price for posting on an open forum.
Some think that we should build our cars to please the masses. I say we should build them to please ourselves.
"I don't get on anyone else's build thread here and say anything looks bad...it's just tacky."
OH, I have plenty of people insult my Restorations, like your lower control are the wrong color, to dark & your sway bar aint factory size thats to big & your front shocks shouldn't be blue, ect., ect., ect., I've gotten plenty of insults over the past 15 years in here. Here's just one of many post. LEON.
P.S Notice i used the Raptorliner on Floors so not against it.
P.S.S. Notice Tufcat must of insulted the car 10 different times.
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,60195.0.html
OK, The only one reason I said I didn't like it, because some day some one like me is probably going to have to spends weeks in there trying to chisel that out of there because down the road someday someone would want it Restored with a shiny Trunk. Having spent a week before trying to scrape out Undercoat from inside a Trunk on a car that someone thought would be a good idea to hide the rust for resale it's not Fun. It Looks nice, I just cringed at the idea of having to remove it. LEON.
[/quote]
yeah...I've uncovered lots of hidden sins before...but one of the reasons I document my threads on public forums is so that if I ever decide to sell, I have a public record of the work done and the condition of the sheetmetal before it was covered. I fix things. I don't cover them.
and as far as opinions go, I don't care if someone asks me why I did something a certain way...it was more the "bad idea" and barfing emojis that hit me the wrong way. If someone down the road does want to restore this car and go concourse, they are going to strip the whole body down anyway.
And I'm sure that people nit pick your stuff all the time...which is wrong in my opinion. I was raised that if you don't have something good to say, then you don't say anything at all. Although others may nit pick your efforts, you will not find me doing that...ever.
OK, I apologize, I should of never posted all those emoji's. My Mistake. :brickwall: :slap: LEON.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on May 17, 2021, 07:49:43 PM
OK, I apologize, I should of never posted all those emoji's. My Mistake. :brickwall: :slap: LEON.
No problem...and I think you do nice work. I love glossy painted trunks but I just have different goals/intents for my cars.
The undercoating looks great and will protect the metal very nicely for years to come. I like it.
Thanks TT!
I have been slowly picking away at interior. I have a new Legendary carpet that has been rolled up in a box for 13 years, so it is taking lots of time to form it to the floor pans....hence the sand bags in the picture. The rear upper seat had a clear plastic cover on it that was half on/half off, which is why it has a dirt line that runs from corner to corner. The rear seat cleaned up pretty well, but has some yellowing/staining.
(https://i.imgur.com/1zAt0gW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XLBAGdI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6rK5Np3.jpg)
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on June 12, 2021, 03:55:08 PM
Thanks TT!
I have been slowly picking away at interior. I have a new Legendary carpet that has been rolled up in a box for 13 years, so it is taking lots of time to form it to the floor pans....hence the sand bags in the picture.....
An auto battery on top of a slat of wood also work great as a weight provider.
:cheers:
Cleaned up nice! If you haven't tried it, I had some good luck brightening up some white vinyl with Super Clean.
Quote from: funknut on June 13, 2021, 10:11:58 PM
Cleaned up nice! If you haven't tried it, I had some good luck brightening up some white vinyl with Super Clean.
Totally Awesome from the Dollar tree works great to , it has a little acid in it so i alway neutralize it with water after use .
Thanks for the suggestions for cleaning products. I'll see if I can find some.
I installed the rear wiring harness, taillights, rear bumper, and this antique tag I bought on ebay. That tag is now my permanent tag.
(https://i.imgur.com/cKPjxo5.jpg)
I also cleaned up the door panels
(https://i.imgur.com/fNkykCk.jpg)
Forget the door panel, what's with that footwear? :o
Yeah....THose shoes look a little...."Urban". ;D
Are you really good at playing basketball and cooking Bar-B-Que ?
Nice !love the license plate!
Quote from: Kern Dog on June 18, 2021, 12:05:32 PM
Yeah....THose shoes look a little...."Urban". ;D
Are you really good at playing basketball and cooking Bar-B-Que ?
Wow.. KD spending too much time over at Yellowbullet it seems..
I love the 68 Kansas yellow and black plates. Mine
Quote from: timmycharger on June 18, 2021, 12:38:52 PM
Nice !love the license plate!
Quote from: Kern Dog on June 18, 2021, 12:05:32 PM
Yeah....THose shoes look a little...."Urban". ;D
Are you really good at playing basketball and cooking Bar-B-Que ?
Wow.. KD spending too much time over at Yellowbullet it seems..
It was a joke, snowflake. Remember what a joke is?
LOL-some people get distracted easily. Those are NIKE running shoes with reflective material. The camera flash makes them looks a lot more wild then they are.
:pity:
Just having some fun.
I do like the textured trunk floor even if the purists don't. I am not a custom car guy by any stretch and an OEM correct car is beautiful but not my thing either.
Thanks for the updates.
Reminds me of the Fast Times at Ridgemont High Shoes. :scratchchin:
Vans....a favorite for the skateboard, surfer and stoner crowds! :smilielol:
Rear window and trim are installed. I cleaned up the window but left the vintage radio station sticker.
(https://i.imgur.com/6zOijOB.jpg)
Spent some time cleaning and polishing the engine bay. The passenger side is in much better condition then the driver's side so don't expect as good of results on the other side!!
(https://i.imgur.com/nU0AjQth.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bSoAbqVh.jpg)
Finally pulled all the original front suspension parts out for refurb/replacement. So many rusty cotter pins...I'm also trying to figure out what I want to do for front brakes. This thing has drums on all four corners and that's not fun.
(https://i.imgur.com/RNRxtp1h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ATgOboYh.jpg)
Looking good! In the 90s we used 409 spray to clean a white bench seat, I will have to try some Super Clean soon. :2thumbs:
If you want to lighten Rust near Battery Tray & not remove Paint go to Hardware Store & buy Navel Jelly or Zud (mix zud into paste) & spread over Rust. This will remove the Rust & not damage Paint, These 2 Products contain Oxalic Acid which is the best Chemical Rust remover. LEON.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on October 02, 2021, 12:13:24 PM
If you want to lighten Rust near Battery Tray & not remove Paint go to Hardware Store & buy Navel Jelly or Zud (mix zud into paste) & spread over Rust. This will remove the Rust & not damage Paint, These 2 Products contain Oxalic Acid which is the best Chemical Rust remover. LEON.
Interesting...thanks! I'll try it
Quote from: hemi-hampton on October 02, 2021, 12:13:24 PM
If you want to lighten Rust near Battery Tray & not remove Paint go to Hardware Store & buy Navel Jelly or Zud (mix zud into paste) & spread over Rust. This will remove the Rust & not damage Paint, These 2 Products contain Oxalic Acid which is the best Chemical Rust remover. LEON.
on my Muscle bikes I restore i use a mixture of CLR and Comet and it makes a paste and does the same thing
Quote from: moparstuart on October 04, 2021, 08:13:15 AM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on October 02, 2021, 12:13:24 PM
If you want to lighten Rust near Battery Tray & not remove Paint go to Hardware Store & buy Navel Jelly or Zud (mix zud into paste) & spread over Rust. This will remove the Rust & not damage Paint, These 2 Products contain Oxalic Acid which is the best Chemical Rust remover. LEON.
on my Muscle bikes I restore i use a mixture of CLR and Comet and it makes a paste and does the same thing
Thanks!
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on October 04, 2021, 01:12:32 PM
Quote from: moparstuart on October 04, 2021, 08:13:15 AM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on October 02, 2021, 12:13:24 PM
If you want to lighten Rust near Battery Tray & not remove Paint go to Hardware Store & buy Navel Jelly or Zud (mix zud into paste) & spread over Rust. This will remove the Rust & not damage Paint, These 2 Products contain Oxalic Acid which is the best Chemical Rust remover. LEON.
on my Muscle bikes I restore i use a mixture of CLR and Comet and it makes a paste and does the same thing
Thanks!
spread it on thick let it dry harden to a crust then take it off
With 5 kids, work, school board, etc, I've not been making much progress on this charger. But I've also been trying to be patient as I've been waiting to make a deal with a previous owner for the complete numbers matching 383-4. I've known where the engine was for the last 3 years and the owner was willing to sell it. The engine is in a Satellite he owns and it hasn't run in over 20 years. We even came to an agreement on price three years ago, but I can't get him to take any action. I've offered to pull the engine for him...I've offered more money for it...He has turned down my offer to pull it and he just won't ever get around to doing it himself. After three years, I've come to the conclusion it won't happen any time soon and I'm tired of waiting. I had also completely rebuilt and powder coated all the front suspension. So the direction is changing for the better.
I'm going Gen 3 hemi, A518, Vintage Air, and RMS front/rear suspension.
(https://i.imgur.com/uJpHxjlh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cXYVfFFh.jpg)
Also, I noticed that there is not blackout treatment on the front of the radiator support...and the radiator support has not been repainted.
(https://i.imgur.com/f7x0T9oh.jpg)
I'm also going with disc brakes and bigger wheels. Don't judge the wheels just yet. It will look a lot better at ride height, which will be lower. If I didn't mention it earlier, I had my paintless dent repair guy work out the hail dents and door dings.
(https://i.imgur.com/BSpqItUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LIHrWeGh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7vBQtY1h.jpg)
Odd no black out on front but I've heard on Dark Colors like Black & B9 dark Blue they may not get it because of the dark Color. BUT, I Restored a Rare 1 of 2 Known (with automatic, 9 with 4 speed) Black 70 T.A Challenger. Even though it was Black the Core Support was still Blacked out flat Black which I thought was odd. So I reduplicated it. LEON.
Quote from: 70B5Cuda on March 12, 2023, 03:05:36 PMI'm also going with disc brakes and bigger wheels. Don't judge the wheels just yet. It will look a lot better at ride height, which will be lower. If I didn't mention it earlier, I had my paintless dent repair guy work out the hail dents and door dings.
(https://i.imgur.com/BSpqItUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LIHrWeGh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7vBQtY1h.jpg)
That looks familiar. Michelin Pilot Sport AS-4 on US Wheel Chrysler OE Series? Have you tried fitting hubcaps?
(https://i.imgur.com/al27Yt8.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/0sfxFVB.jpg?1)
:coolgleamA: :2thumbs:
RMS 4 link has been mocked up. Will need to pull/paint/reinstall later.
(https://i.imgur.com/kDaL80Gh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tbEVgLth.jpg)
nice!!
Catching up a little bit...
Got the Charger up on the lift to mock up the drivetrain...
(https://i.imgur.com/fMmZVsYh.jpg)
Mounted the cast manifolds first, which are from a 6.4L Jeep Cherokee SRT8. These headers are cheap and they actually came factory on Jeep SRT8's which had 485hp, so they can handle the power and won't break easily. I paid $125 plus shipping for them. The driver's side engine mount had to be redone to accommodate the cast headers. The mount was originally straight...now it is curved.
(https://i.imgur.com/AbmW3iFh.jpg)
It's kind of hard to see in these first two pictures, but the tunnel had to be clearanced to get the transmission up into the tunnel where it needed to be.
(https://i.imgur.com/SHV9Xl1h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BUNq4Vkh.jpg)
The torsion bar crossmember lips were trimmed down in the tunnel and a plate was welded in.
(https://i.imgur.com/sgq4Uc8h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HO7oJHEh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/C8NIW1Jh.jpg)
Thanks for the update ~ Outstanding build. :cheers:
Exhaust mock up
(https://i.imgur.com/VMHjbNjh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0zwnoMGh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/O8oJEWfh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vAAQsNph.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/apmVHoxh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mAu1Nfnh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bOsJwQBh.jpg)
Subframe connectors
(https://i.imgur.com/iyyqgalh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZUnJRSSh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0KnN4mPh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Qxz1wEfh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WrQ05sjh.jpg)
I'm going to make a real push to get this thing together and running before summer is over. I sent the transmission crossmember out for powdercoating but took a couple pics first.
(https://i.imgur.com/H9Ldrcmh.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ulg0fECh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/koCFSFBh.jpg?1)
Great work.
I may have to copy your subframe connector design for my charger.
Looks solid!
Kind of silly to geek out about this....but I'm happy with the powdercoating results. lol
(https://i.imgur.com/atiBLeYh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lpmprzfh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PBwWStuh.jpg)
You got skills. :2thumbs:
Quote from: Mytur Binsdirti on April 06, 2024, 10:13:27 AMYou got skills. :2thumbs:
I don't...My buddy Matt has the ridiculous fabrication/welding skills.