So I put together a summary of progress I've made on my '70 since I started stripping it down in the middle of last summer.
Background: I got it on the road 10 years ago with an engine overhaul, front end bushings, alignment, wheels and tires, and a few coats of satin black. I've been wanting to do it right ever since.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/Katie_002_modified.jpg)
But a few things had to come first: college, marry the girlfriend that will lube up pistons and also build her a house, get her pregnant, all that stuff...but the most important precursor was building a shop: So doing it "right" actually started 2 summers ago...
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/Building/bldg012Fixed.jpg) (http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/Building/DSCF0535.jpg) (http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/Building/purlins004.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/Building/siding001.jpg)
Now to the car:
1970 Charger 500, 383 2bbl, Auto, light green metallic, black top and interior. Earlier I put "right" in quotes so that no one reads that as "correct", which is entirely different. This car will not be done correct and but will be done right. After watching desert car kings last night, I can't even mention the "restore" word, it no longer has any meaning!
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/July10018.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/July10015.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/July10022.jpg)
That's the car to start with. But in my mind, before I could do it right I also needed a rotisserie. So after some internet research, a trip to the metal liquidators, plus salvaging an old golf cart, I was on my way....
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/StripDay1002.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/StripDay1005.jpg)
So I stripped the car 100%, bagging, tagging and taking hundreds of digital photos. I also inventoried the parts in a filing cabinet by drawer for later retrieval. Listed all missing non-repop parts, virtually all of which I've already purchased with the help of this forum.
Body lifted off the drivetrain/front suspension. Just made a simple cart with moving dollies and scrap lumber.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/FinalStrip004.jpg)
Undercoating removed at this point with propane torch, putty knife and respirator.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/rotiss_day_002.jpg)
Now on to media blasting:
No doubt it's a subject that folks get fairly emotional over for many reasons. This topic has filled and /or highjacked many threads, I know cause I read most of them. Ford, chebby, Mopar, it doesn't matter, I've wandered onto most of them and I don't want to go into all the opinions, just my opinions!
IMO, I have a pretty good handle on it, and even used it in industry for aerospace parts. IMO, with the right equipment, a little practice, distant neighbors and good safety precautions this doesn't require a professional. IMO, there's real value in blasting at various stages throughout the process. Also, IMO soda blasting is for boats!
My setup: borrowed tow behind diesel air compressor (~200 cfm, @ 90 psi), basic pressure pot and blaster setup with large hoses and nozzle, fine coal slag media (black beauty). Some tarps, metal fence stakes, buckets, and window screen to reclaim and sift media. Nova 2000 fresh air hood powered by an oilless electric compressor placed indoors.
No, warping was not an issue, not even the roof. You have to hit at an angle, like skipping a rock on water. This will strip the paint and rust without imparting too much energy into the metal. Also, the fines in reused media seems to clean out rust pits better than new stuff, so I started blasting with a mix of old and new media.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_1971.jpg)
Most of the bad stuff stripped off
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2020.jpg)
Pile of cancer
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2025.jpg)
Another round of blasting to clean things up inside the nooks.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2035.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2033.jpg)
The rocker under the quarter is pretty rough where the wheel well was rotted out, but the rest under the door looks ok, so I took some measurements and angles and made pieces for both sides. Cut out the old and blasted again inside there. Using weld through primer or cold galvanizing paint on the fresh metal throughout the project,
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2082.jpg)
The quarters weld to some raised pads on the underside that allow water to drain out, and the curvature transitions to the rocker profile up near the door jamb.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2070.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2075.jpg)
Sail panels. I made templates of the curvatures along the window glass and the deck filler panel seam to work the new patches back to.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2047.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2048.jpg)
Drilled alignment holes through the pinch welds before pulling out this support, then used sheet metal screws back through those holes before welding it back in.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2063.jpg)
The left side wasn't as bad, just bend some stock 90 and 120, and hand made the curvature snipping relief cuts and welding them up. Used original templates to match curvatures.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2053.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2058.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2060.jpg)
Some other patches
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/pilar1.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/pilar3.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/pilar4.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2044.jpg)
Test fitting the entire rear with clamps and screws before any welding.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2076.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2081.jpg)
The trunk. Plenty of bumps, bruises and burns getting it back to this point.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2094.jpg)
Joining the trunk to trunk extensions
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2088.jpg)
Almost ready for quarters, still needs cold galv sprayed inside
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2089.jpg)
I don't own a jack for the car, but I did transfer all the proper jack brackets in the trunk.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2102.jpg)
Tacking the quarters. Patience is the key, lots of beer breaks to cool down.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2108.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2105.jpg)
This is a challenging hurdle in the project, but it went really well. Figure I'll leadless this joint and any others on the body to guard against pin holes.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/DSCF1371.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/DSCF1377.jpg)
The valance extensions are notorious for needing adjustment. This car was no exception; they just would not fit out of the box no matter how I clamped it. Had to slice them, work 'em in and weld the seam. The gaps are great...they're fitting perfect now.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2170.jpg)
A few loose ends underneath the rear: gas tank mounts and a 2nd exhaust hanger that I made from scratch. Hard to see, but it's a mirror image of the other side, so I just cut templates and reversed them. This was actually bolted in from the factory, but some plug welds will do for me.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2232.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2236.jpg)
Moving on to the center section of the car, here's my fwd leaf spring bracket that came in contact with a curb or something.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2172.jpg)
The new one fit nice. I took about 1000 measurements in placing this one
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2178.jpg)
The transmission cross member was only bad on the ends so I made some repair sections.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2185.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2189.jpg)
I blasted inside the frames here and added cold galv. Note the new internal braces where the front frame mates to the X-member.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2204.jpg)
Note the little dip for the E-Brake cable and the speedo cable clip.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2212.jpg)
I needed some new jamb wire covers. Holy cow, these are $100 a set of 4! Since my rears were fine, I just made the fronts.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2227.jpg)
Here they are installed over new front ½ pans.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2229.jpg)
No before pic, but this little area was a pain to work in.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2228.jpg)
And then there's the PSGR side rocker, which was fine on the outside but had a large mouse nest inside and that had caused some deep pits from the inside. Luckily, I caught this when I cut inspection holes on the inner rocker and patched up where I fixed the X-member. It was only on the horizontal part down near the pinch weld, but extended most of the length. So I had a 54"+ piece bent locally
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2215.jpg).
Problem is it has these angled drain holes, so I recreated those at the proper spacing. Note the edge of the new piece is flanged with little snipped tabs that nestle it into the edge of the rocker and keep it spaced correctly.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2221.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2214.jpg)
The final product:
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2225.jpg)
So that's about it for the unibody metal repairs. Next I'm starting on subframes and torque boxes. I also rebuilt my hinges. When the weather gets nice, I'll start blasting panels and instal those to do gap alignment and any repairs.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2195.jpg)
:2thumbs:
Wow, nice work dude!
That charger is lucky to have you.
:scope: thats some real nice metal work going on there Dude :yesnod: thanks for sharing the pictures :cheers: keep them coming !! love looking at this kind of stuff :yesnod: :popcrn:
wow nice craftmenship going on there :yesnod:
Quote from: tan top on March 30, 2011, 02:05:24 PM
:scope: thats some real nice metal work going on there Dude :yesnod: thanks for sharing the pictures :cheers: keep them coming !! love looking at this kind of stuff :yesnod: :popcrn:
:iagree: :popcrn: :popcrn:
Love watching threads like this when a real craftsman is at the helm, keep the pics coming. Ditto also to the other comment. That Charger is lucky to be in your care.
Dan
good pics too :popcrn:
I remember the shop build thread........just a disgusting display of newshopness! Dream shop is what that is uh huh!
Your metal work showcases your journeyman mettle. (sorry, couldn't resist that). If the waste ever hits the oscillating device you could payoff your mortgage by selling all your clamps. You da man!
Awesome work, :2thumbs: keep it up!
Jason
impressive metal work :2thumbs:
:cheers: Excellent fabrication! I wish I had that shop. Do you have plans for what color, down the road?
Very nice metal work!! You should be very proud.
Wow nice job! That is looking awesome! :cheers:
Dam thats some good work :cheers: :2thumbs: :notworthy: !!
Nice work!, keep those pic´s commin....
Quote from: BIGBLCK11 on March 30, 2011, 08:45:49 PM
:cheers: Excellent fabrication! I wish I had that shop. Do you have plans for what color, down the road?
Color? Not sure just yet...
Also, I appreciate the kudos from everyone.
Quote from: twodko on March 30, 2011, 07:14:41 PM
If the waste ever hits the oscillating device you could payoff your mortgage by selling all your clamps.
Nah, I must admit that most of those locking pliers are cheap imports...went for qty over quality.
The ones with red handles are junk, but the others are actually still working well.
http://www.dpciwholesale.com/Locking-Pliers/
Outstanding craftsmanship!!!
Norm
Quote from: HOTROD on March 30, 2011, 10:05:30 PM
Dam thats some good work :cheers: :2thumbs: :notworthy: !!
I agree, :2thumbs:.
that is some serious fab skills
Really lookin good. PLEASE keep us updated on your progress.
Benji
wow
impressive :cheers:
:o Amazing and professional work for sure. :2thumbs:
Along the cowl where the bottom of the windshield meets, there are these indentations for the trim clips. Had to figure out a way to repair one of them where moisture had gotten under the windshield gasket.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2252.jpg)
I made up a rectangular piece of 1/4" plate the size of the indentation and cut out a larger rectangle in a piece of angle iron. Insert 20 ga. sheet metal, apply large hammer and wahlah!
Two more light taps and the depth is only .005" off from the original depth.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2249.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2250.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2254.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2255.jpg)
Link to my DIY Subframe Connectors:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,78927.msg897472.html#msg897472
:scope: :scope: :yesnod: nice job :2thumbs:
May I ask why you butt welded in the quarters instead of doing full quarters? Not bashing your work just curious as I am getting ready to do some metal work on a couple chargers. Your work looks great by the way.
Quote from: Ryan on April 18, 2011, 08:14:24 PM
May I ask why you butt welded in the quarters instead of doing full quarters? Not bashing your work just curious as I am getting ready to do some metal work on a couple chargers. Your work looks great by the way.
I considered both options, even a full on PSGR side and partial on DVR. I ended up going this way to preserve the original fit of the trunk opening, quarter end caps, and door gap which only need minor fit adjustment at this point. Plus, my time is free.
Great metal work!
Quote from: vancamp on March 30, 2011, 08:03:10 PM
impressive metal work :2thumbs:
:iagree: :notworthy:
Great work! I like the shop as well :2thumbs:
:cheers: Great work --people will be lining up outside once they see your work :cheers:
Nice work. I plan to use some of your tips on my 70 that I've started recently.
hey can you come to NC and help me with my 68!! not nearly as much fabrication, but there is a few areas. ;D :cheers: I got lots of beer and Whiskey! and Steaks.. did I mention Steaks!
Quote from: sixty8charger on June 27, 2011, 03:29:56 PM
hey can you come to NC and help me with my 68!! not nearly as much fabrication, but there is a few areas. ;D :cheers: I got lots of beer and Whiskey! and Steaks.. did I mention Steaks!
As good as beer and steak sounds, :cheers: my hands are full...besides, long distance restoration never works!
Here's some of my latest endeavors:
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2332.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/4c12a1d5.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/100_2327.jpg)
This was "pound for pound" a very time consuming repair. Had to fabricate the inner door panel patch, which I hammered out of a sheet with no relief cuts and made a new corner for the outter skin with folded lips to match the factory appearance:
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/c0762be1.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/ec0d1b46.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/2cfe2baa.jpg)
Had to match the body line that goes onto the fender. The scribe lines are for aligning a previously made template to make sure the gap to the fender is the same.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/7965f68f.jpg)
There are several small plug welds along the flap to tie the skin to the support panel
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/e339a8a9.jpg)
Man you haft to be a fabricator from some were that just better that stock !! :2thumbs:
:iagree:
yeah, whatever he said :popcrn:
Mad skills. Takes lots of practice and common sense.
Wow! I'm impressed with your metal work. I have to go through a similar process as you've done.
Update
Our waterfowl hunting season has sucked so bad here in MD, I had to make use of some spare time to work on the charger.
Used the nice weather a few weeks ago to blast the fenders and hood. Here's some pics fixing the worse fender:
The nose was hit and had over an inch of bondo to build it back out
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/f1991d58.jpg)
I removed the headlight bucket to straighten it and to fix the nose of the fender
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/14f774ee.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/de642172.jpg)
The support brace was rotted so here's a homemade one to replace it:
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/3aa75326.jpg)
Also had to pull the back support out in order to fix the top and bottom. Kind of a surgical operation, but if you drill the welds along the folded over edge you can tap it out of the skin with a block of wood.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/69944ff1.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/3d1bf4da.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/efebf35e.jpg)
Plan is to screw the support structures back in place to hang on the car and do gap alignment, pull it back apart, blast, primer, and weld it up final
I dig the tires and pipes originally on the car.... Are they going back on or something different ?
Quote from: 440 on January 19, 2012, 10:04:23 AM
I dig the tires and pipes originally on the car.... Are they going back on or something different ?
no and no. I like the torque thrusts, but those particular ones don't fit quite right.
More fun with metal!
The driver's side fender didn't have much collision damage, but the rust was a little worse.
Fabbed a piece to repair the support that bolts to the fwd rocker.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/6f488c37.jpg)
And then there's the piece under the antenna location that mounts to the splash shield at the top. It was totally rotted away on the dvr's side, so I went with a mirror image of the template from the passngr side, minus the antenna hole. A few more tweaks still required, but it's shaping up nicely...
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/9c06dab5.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/229e96a1.jpg)
Wow I feel likeI am looking at a step-by-step in a magazine, very nice work and skill. :2thumbs:
great work. enjoying the progress. :2thumbs:
:cheers: :popcrn: :drool5: :2thumbs: :hack: :buff: :paintingpink: :pushup: :notworthy:
Very inspiring!
you used replacement quarters instead of factory when it comes to putting body filling on the quarters do you do anything on the inside to hide the weld seam or just put undercoat on it i never see what the finished weld in the trunk on a quarter panel :shruggy:
Quote from: oldgold69 on January 27, 2012, 12:19:07 AM
you used replacement quarters instead of factory when it comes to putting body filling on the quarters do you do anything on the inside to hide the weld seam or just put undercoat on it i never see what the finished weld in the trunk on a quarter panel :shruggy:
shoehorn yourself into the trunk, Clean it up with a green back, but don't thin out the panels. A good coat of epoxy primer will protect it, a proper undercoat job will hide it.
Great work, do you metal fabricate for a living, or are you just a natural?
Quote from: Tigger on January 27, 2012, 06:12:48 PM
Great work, do you metal fabricate for a living, or are you just a natural?
No, prob wouldnt have this as a hobby if it were also work. It's that shoemaker/shoe thing :
Im Impressed at the level of fab skill for making those little "Dies" for the stampings. Very nice.
Domino, you are a true craftsman. That Charger is lucky to have you.
what grit roloc disc are you using to grind down your welds? They look great.
24 or 36 grit
Gotta hand it to you, that is some AMAZING metal fab work going on there! :cheers:
Really, REALLY great work! :drool5:
Thanks! Hopefully seeing what I've done will help and/or inspire others.
Keeps me going looking at other builds and posting up my own updates.
Got a bit sidetracked working on a blasting "shed". Figured I would benefit from having a dedicated area that would catch media to reclaim, needed like a shed outside with high flow ventilation and a light. Step back 6 months I bought some porta pots to camo and use as deer blinds, one was a 5'x5' handicapped crapper.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/ff7a6448.jpg)
Painted grey to match shop siding
I added a $20 4' work light, a freebie cut down loading ramp, a freebie moon bounce blower.
Built a baffle box to keep media from being sucked up without clogging like a furnace filter.
And made an adapter to attach 4" corex drain pipe, which runs out the floor and off 50' to clear the dust away.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/43f6e43c.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/96420b10.jpg)
And a DIY pressure pot blaster under $100
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/e012d498.jpg)
That started as a very old compressor tank freebie
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/e249278e.jpg)
I updated some of the pics above, but also wanted to share how well this actually worked!!! :2thumbs:
The old blower is impressive...keeps the air fresh with the dust pulling down and out really fast. Of course the corex pipe makes a digerydoo(spelling?) sound at the pipe exit. No aborigines have showed up yet!
The diy pressure pot blaster works great so far. no clogs and no shrapnel either.
I have a pile of parts to blast, laying out tarps and stakes sucked, so I'm excited to have this problem solved!
UPDATE: had to add a grounding stake/wire to the blasting worktop.... with plastic walls and floor, the amount of static charge that builds up is really shocking...
Here's another update with some of the metal work on my fenders...still need to butt weld the patches, but I wanted to hang and gap the panels first.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/11efe6fe.jpg)
I made it flat, then added relief cuts to get the curvature right, using arced templates at various places.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/310af721.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/e5d02356.jpg)
Building up some tack welds along the edge to perfect the gap. Also, you can see the body line. Tip: insert a piece of thicker 16 gauge sheetmetal into the rolled lip when shaping the curve or bending the body line or it will pinch shut and not accept the support piece later.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/9c6d1d39.jpg)
Similar work on this side except the door needed to be built up a bit...still a little too wide near the lower scallop, but not for long.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/6b69f4bf.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/1267a4f4.jpg)
Here's all the crap I replaced on the two fenders alone.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/ded71277.jpg)
Assembled and gapped, have since re arced the psger side of the hood. Figure time now is well spent getting the gap edges looking really nice.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/4823d4ee.jpg)
Doing some awesome work, thanks for taking/sharing all the pics :2thumbs:
:scope: :scope: ... :yesnod: :2thumbs:
Put the spot-a-pot blaster to work on the front bumper "Y" brackets, inner bumpers, fender ties, J brackets, nose bumpers, latch support, and bits and pieces. Basically everything forward of the core support is blasted, installed, and lined up except the grill itself. The hood latches and stays gapped and even releases right!
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/78d1676c.jpg)
Here's the problem:
I think this is common for the '70, the fender kinda hangs out and doesn't really match the bumper very well down near the valance.
I can shove the valance to the left to align the right, or to the right to make the left look good, or split the difference and make both sides look just a little crappy!
I don't like options 1 through 3.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/0990b64c.jpg)
I prefer option 4:
Cut about 3/8"-1/2" slice out of the front valance and make both sides line up right....
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/56163cb2.jpg)
Weld it up, including the license plate bracket holes cause those need to be redrilled.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/5acdb6f7.jpg)
Now fitting just right IMO, both sides curve in just enough that the reveal is even top to bottom looking from the front.
It really makes the front end flow much better
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/1c4b2e81.jpg)
I see most of the patches are tacked and grinded down. Are you going to use some type of sealer or finish of the welds ? Just curious.
Quote from: charger_fan_4ever on February 24, 2012, 09:11:43 AM
I see most of the patches are tacked and grinded down. Are you going to use some type of sealer or finish of the welds ? Just curious.
they'll be welded up. I partially tack in the patches and flatten both sides with the grinder so I can dolly/shrink the area to the final shape I want. Also hang the panels and check the curvature, gaps and overall fit.
Then slowly finish up the welding process, minding heat of course. This way if something doesn't fit right, I can slice some of the tacks and rework the patch.
, yeah was going to sugest before i read option four :yesnod: cut & splice the valance :coolgleamA: :2thumbs:
nice work :yesnod: :popcrn:
great work :2thumbs: you don't live near San Antonio do ya I could use a little sheet metal help :icon_smile_big:
My friend just did a six pack bird rotisserie like that and did the same quarter panel treatment. he used all metal inside the quarters to smooth out the line seen from inside the trunk. it took a week of torture and some improvised sanding tols to get waaay back in thee , but you see absolutly no seam at all. This bird is an un known although I could post the vin n here. Owner really dosen't want it up.
It will be auctioned off in Scottsdale in the next 2 years . Not a stone factory build . the body is factoy but the engine has been pumped up to 650 hp. It will be billed as the straightest bird in existence, and it is . The panel alignment and work is simply amazing. But they are not mopar experts so there will be wrong little stuff here and there. I send mopar stuart pics in bare metal before. mabe he can post em back up.
The interior of the trunk inner quarters will have no undercoating. and will be polished . Its over kill how he is massaging this bird out . but he will be asking 200 k for it . Nice job on the blasting. I also hate soda blasting. and like you said if you practice. you get real good with different grits of whatever . good post I love seeing this type of work going on.
With the patches on the fender skins all welded up and smoothed out. Hammered, shrunk, straightened etc. And the support structures repaired and straightened, it was time to mate everything back together.
I media blasted again, prep'd and shot epoxy primer on the hidden areas with the weld spots masked.
Also, while apart, I modified the headlight supports to bolt in, they were spot welded originally which complicates painting, probably why they were rusted.
There are now 6 1/4-20 rectangle nuts welded on the back side of each headlight bucket where the spot welds used to be. Plan is to paint separate and bolt together with SEM captive washer bolts.... modified for the better while keeping the OEM feel.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/91cac1be.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/f5d545e7.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/d3384b1f.jpg)
These are the steps to reinstalling the support bracing with the patched area.
With the brace in place, use a 1/4" burr to open up plug weld holes.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/419c4927.jpg)
After welding.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/8bf92024.jpg)
Once together and welds cleaned up, carefully trim the flap to size with a cutoff wheel
No pic, but lastly finish welding up the seam where the patch meets the original skin
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/5f480cff.jpg)
Sure...Just a few pinholes visible from the underside of the hood. I had a feeling there was a monster in the closet. :brickwall:
I've already blasted and started patches. I'll post up those pics when done, but this is just a teaser pic for now:
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/331d8427.jpg)
:faint:
That is just awesome fab work!
:yesnod:
good stuff , split the frame , only way to know forsure whats going on :yesnod:
:popcrn:
i would like to know how you lined up the body line on the quarter panel without the door on and if you did put the door on how was the body line i will use a patch panel like yours do you cut off the door jamb edge and then line up your body line your work makes me feel more comfortable about my ability to finish my car :2thumbs:
:popcrn:
My hat goes off! :cheers:
It's a true labour of love isn't it?
Oh and the satisfaction it brings...................mind blowing! :2thumbs:
Quote from: oldgold69 on March 12, 2012, 08:25:17 PM
i would like to know how you lined up the body line on the quarter panel without the door on and if you did put the door on how was the body line i will use a patch panel like yours do you cut off the door jamb edge and then line up your body line your work makes me feel more comfortable about my ability to finish my car :2thumbs:
- While the doors were on and aligned and I scribed marks on the leading edge of the original quarters
- the leading 2" or so of each quarter with the alignment marks was maintained since I butt welded the skin.
If you replace the leading edge then you'll need to have the doors on (with new/rebuilt hinges) and align your quarters to the doors.
There are advantages and disadvantages to each way. I would probably replace the leading edge if I did it again, but both ways work...
did you do it the way you did to leave the factory spot welds intact or just thought it was easier than plug welding in the jambs what did you do with the rocker edge thanks for advice
Quote from: oldgold69 on March 13, 2012, 11:24:56 PM
did you do it the way you did to leave the factory spot welds intact or just thought it was easier than plug welding in the jambs what did you do with the rocker edge thanks for advice
Primarily it was for maintaining original door gap alignment. 2ndly for stock appearance of the door jamb.
Both of those concerns can be addressed.
plug welding in the jamb shouldn't be a problem, certainly easier than butt welding.
The rocker transition is at the factory location overlapped with plug welds.
From the top: I connected the vertical butt weld seam with a horizontal butt weld seam ~2" wide and about even with the bottom of the door. from there is AMD's version of the rounded corner down to the rocker flap.
I worked this corner area: made a bridge with a little triangle of sheet metal + build up some weld, then die grinder to smooth it out.
Also, progressively welded up the flap at the rocker transition.
Rough it in with all metal filler and final skim with body filler.
Metal work phase is winding down, although this hood structure is proving to be a good challenge
Blasted the hidden areas and started cutting out bad areas. Even though there are only a few pin holes visible from the outside, once separated, there are several large areas that had deep pits.
Starting with the front x-member where the latches mount. I took angle measurements at various places on the support frame to compare back to. Also, took combination square meaurements to some marks so that the height is set right. So if the height it right, and the angles match, it should be good to go.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/f729ce3e.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/54bc8f9a.jpg)
Everything is butt welded and smoothed out. I spent some extra time welding the seams on the inside too so that with epoxy primer I shouldn't have any future issues.
I also made an inner reinforcement channel (like OEM) with welded rectangular nuts to accept the latch hardware. That's the machine screws visible.
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/77765829.jpg)
(http://i239.photobucket.com/albums/ff287/Sirfizzle/70%20Charger%20Restoration/7ac672a0.jpg)
Oh, one more thing...should I remake the 4 support crimps along the front or leave it smooth?
I think there was some discussion about daytona hoods vs '70 hoods, can't recall if there were smooth '70 hoods late 69 or something like that. Someone have that info or a link to it?
Domino,
Great work!
How do you bend your patch panels so the bend radius matches the original part?
I need to make a patch for some pin holes under the battey tray and and trying to figure out how to best match the bend radius.
Thanks!
Matt
Quote from: matrout76 on March 27, 2012, 09:21:46 AM
Domino,
Great work!
How do you bend your patch panels so the bend radius matches the original part?
I need to make a patch for some pin holes under the battey tray and and trying to figure out how to best match the bend radius.
Thanks!
Matt
I made that patch too...You can probably just bend that by hand over the edge of a bench, maybe with some clamps, a piece of wood and a mallet. To increase the radius of curvature, you can also make several small angle bends moving the bend location a little each time.
In general, I don't own a brake, shear, shrinker/stretcher or any other sheet metal tools. So I use snips, jigsaw, vise, hammers, dollies and improvise the rest...
Wow. NO way I would've guessed you were doing all these by hand.
Amazing work! :2thumbs:
Quote from: nh_mopar_fan on March 27, 2012, 02:28:45 PM
Wow. NO way I would've guessed you were doing all these by hand.
Amazing work! :2thumbs:
To be fair, I did make a few bends at a fully equipped shop early on (the rear inner rockers, and rear window track), but it was a PITA to travel 20 mins each way back and forth. I realized I could improvise and get done quicker.
any progress on the charger? very impressive metal work
You dissassembled the hood/frame :o :o I've NEVER known anyone to do that before!
Best metal work I've seen...EVER! :2thumbs:
P.S. What do you do for a living??
I bet he is a TV repair man.
Excellent work by the way
How is the charger coming?Any updates?Looking great so far.
any new up dates on your charger
Yea, what happened ?. I love following this story.
:popcrn: :popcrn:
Id love to see how this Charger is progessing.
Now that's how you fix a Charger! Way to go!
I was wondering if you had any tips on repairing the rear Dutchman panel ( between the sail panels). I would like to keep as much of the original as possible.
First time I seen this post. Interesting thread. Wonder what happened? :shruggy: LEON.
Hi guys, didn't realize there were replies here.
I've been rebuilding my boat, so my shop is full of fiberglass dust.
I have pics of that, but that's for an entirely different forum!
Ill continue posting pics on this when I pick the charger project back up.
B-mail if you have any questions for your project, I'll try to help ASAP.
Quote from: Cncguy on September 23, 2014, 01:29:07 PM
I was wondering if you had any tips on repairing the rear Dutchman panel ( between the sail panels). I would like to keep as much of the original as possible.
The Dutchman has a compound curve where it always rots at the front corners.
It's not flat all the way to the sail panel, and theres also the curvature of the rear window track too.
On top of that, the pinch weld flaps are only accessible from the trunk.
You can patch it like I did, or
You can drill all the spot welds and remove the Dutchman and replace, but along with it, you'll need to remove the supports that connect the wheel well to the pinch weld.
No matter what you do, you're going to have to shrink the panel to get the oil can out of it.
Any updates on the charger? just found this post again its been 4 years. Any pictures ?
You might want to send him an email or a pm to know for sure. He hasn't been on in over 2 years.