This question is for Rene, Larry, Dane and whoever has built a daytona clone before. I've started working on getting the nose cone on, so I took off the old valence today and I noticed the new valence does not fit. From looking at many pictures of daytonas, it looks like I have to cut away part of the fender. Is this correct? It looks like I have to cut it right where there is a crease line in the metel. Looks like I have to take off the trim moulding around the wheel well and then cut? Just making sure before I start hacking away. Anybody have any tips before I start making a mess of my car? Please feel free to go into detail if need be. here is a picture of the fender
I was just thinking about it, maybe cut it on the crease line, then weld a piece of flat metal at a 90 degree angle for the valence to bolt onto where I cut the fender. Anyway, I'm just brainstorming here. Let me know how you guys did it. Thanks.
hey
what i did was to figure out were the valance has to go. you can use that line as a referance. i would measure to be sure. so it blends nice into the nose cone. leave yourself at least an extra inch. so you can bend it back. make a lip. like the front of the fender has so you can bolt the valance to it. the valance is also bolted to the bottom of the z brackets for strength. (look at pic) then weld the side marker light hole closed and put it in the new valance. hope this helps Rene
Thanks Rene. I'm not too good at bending, so what I was thinking of doing was cutting exactly where the valecne needs to be, then using a welder and adding a piece of the sheetmetal I just cut off and adding it to the bottom and making a 90 degree angle for the valence to attach too. Same thing as what you are talking about bending into a 90 degree angle, but I think I could do a nicer job if I cut it exact and then weld in a 90 degree lip. If I trying bending it, I know I'm going to make a sloppy bend. Okay, at least I know it has to be cut. I'll make sure to measure twice, and cut once :icon_smile:
I've been thinking about leaving the 70 marker lights and filling the valence to make a 70 daytona clone. Any suggestions on how to fill the fiberglass valence where the depressions are for the 69 marker lights? What is the best technique to fill this depression? here is a pic of the valence marker light I'm thinking of filling.
What I did was cut the fender and then bend it with duck bill vise grips.....then you have to mark the holes in the lip that you bent so you can bolt the lower valance to it. I removed the 70 side marker lights, filled in the holes, and put the 69 reflectors in the stock location. I did do one little improvement to the reflectors....I installed a bulb behind the reflector so when the lights are on, the reflector lights up as a side marker light. I left the 70 rear side marker light in the rear fenders alone.
Just my 2 cents worth.....consider the source.
Bryan
howdy Bryan :wave:
Quote from: A383Wing on October 23, 2005, 04:34:15 PM
....I installed a bulb behind the reflector so when the lights are on, the reflector lights up as a side marker light.
Bryan
Interesting mod......any pics of the install?
Tabor,
I haven't done mine yet, but this is the way it was explained to me by a guy who builds superbird fenders which have to be converted in the same way. You cut the extension area about an inch long and clamp a piece of angle iron behind it along the inside of the factory lip and using a body hammer, slowly hammer the lip over. You have to cut a slit in the corner where the extension hangs down so that the lip can be formed. I think that this method will be much easier than welding a piece on and would mean a lot less body work. If you study it a little I think you will see what I'm talking about.
Later,
Larry
Hi Thallium,
I have to hunt for them, but I have photos of fenders already converted with lots of pics showing wear it was cut & bent. I didn't do this mod & haven't test fit them because I got the pair already done a few years ago. The pics are on a disc, so I don't have them handy.
Bob
Bob, cool deal. I probably won't do any work on this till next saturday. When I get home during the week, I really don't feel like working on the daytona. If you find the pictures before next saturday, could you post them? They'll help me out. Of couse, i'll keep everyone posted on how the mod goes.
The yellow line is where you cut the fender. The yellow arrow shows where you slit the fender so that it doesn't buckle when you fold the lip over.
Measure how wide the part of the fender that the valance bolts to,then measure the same distance down from the line,and thats where you make your cut.Then cut the edge in the wheel well right at the line,then trim the edge down to your cut,even at the bent edge of the wheel well.Then use wide jaw vise grips,with two peices of flat stock that are the same width as the distance from the line to your cut,and the length of the area you are bending.Make sure the flat stock is clamped right on the body line,and make your bend.Then weld the back edge of the bend,to the cut edge in the wheel well.
Quote from: BigBlockSam on October 23, 2005, 06:21:41 PM
howdy Bryan :wave:
Hi Rene.... :wave:
Quote from: Just 6T9_CHGR.... on October 23, 2005, 06:31:17 PM
Quote from: A383Wing on October 23, 2005, 04:34:15 PM
....I installed a bulb behind the reflector so when the lights are on, the reflector lights up as a side marker light.
Bryan
Interesting mod......any pics of the install?
I will see if I can get a picture taken of how I did it...might be a few days...Daytona is buried in the garage...
Bryan
I did much the same as everyone above....cut and bend the exsisting metal.
For fiberglass fill....simply lay some strips of wet 'glass on a sheet of flat glass
then once dry trim and use for fill pieces..'glass in or marglass in. :icon_smile:
Daytona pics on my site: unique movie cars.com
Well, I cut the fenders today and bent about an 1 1/4" of a lip on the bottom for the valence to attach to. I did it like you guys suggested. I got a flat piece of metal on the back side and vice gripped it to the fender and bent the lip. here are a couple of pictures.
good luck on daytona clone, takes a lot of work
looks good tabor. nice straight line. :2thumbs:
Yes, you are right it takes a lot of work, but it's fun :) Thanks Rene...next week i'm going to shoot for putting the nose cone onto the car.
that should be interesting, good luck. Rene
Looks perfect to me. Looking forward to the next step.
slowly but surely. I don't have much time with work and all, and spending time with the family, so I do what I can. Kinda winging it here. No directions, just putting it together in the order I think it goes in. :P
i love it when a plan comes together. looks good. did you think of a color for the daytona?
ya Rene, I've been saving pictures of colors I like. So far I'm thinking of doing it in red with white hood strips and white tail stripe. Similar to this picture. Not set on the color yet, but I'm leaning towards red. The black and white combo you are going to do it going to look mean
that'll look good. i like those hood inserts
cool daytona clone there DUDE!!! ;D :icon_smile_big:-MATT
It's been thought of by some.
So what engine are u gonna decide on?-MATT
Same a real daytona nose needing work in MCG FEB 06 issue no $$
This is how I am solving the headlight door problem. It may not be the right way everyone does it, but it's my way and it should look decent. The doors will be permanently shut.
Tabor,
I've put my daytona clone project on the back burner for now and I'm gathering the parts for my wife's superbird clone. I'm going to mount the lights similar to the way that you're doing it. I think for a clone, it's good enough. We only drive our cars at night a few times a year anyway. Can't wait to see your car finished.
larry
Not a bad idea. This solves a couple of problems. It looks like a turn signal in the day, and at night will shine through the grill like a head light. You are good. You just saved yourself a huge head ache. Very very good.
Only one thing. Some Cops may think your headlights are not ON and you are running on auxiliary lighting and may pull you over. I know, I have mounted one of mine close to this idea, and the cops just could not get that they were head lamps with high and low beams. I had to go in and talk to the Chief of police to get them off my case. But that was 20 years ago. I think they are more understandable today because of all the options that today's headlights look like.
very cool Tabor
that looks good too. are those led parking lights or blinkers. are you running parking lights. thats gonna save you a big pain in the ass. i dig it. Rene
One question, Tabe. Won't those lights affect cooling in the already undersized grille opening? If memory serves, Daytonas as a rule run hot
because of this. Do you think you will still get enough air to the radiator?
Hey,Thallium,I think Dane might be right,about getting hasseled by the cops about those lights! If you don't want to part with the bucks,to buy the correct parts to make your lights function proprely,(which are available from both,Dayclona,or Erik Nelson) then you may want to do what Daytonalo did,and fabricate your own set up! He showed everyone how he did it step by step. If you don't want headlights that function like that,then you could do what a lot of guys used to do with the old fiberglass kits,and fab recessed light buckets,and make the covers so you can remove them at night.That way you could utilize the space where the headlights belong,and save the grille space for cooling!
Or...he could do it the way that he wants to do it.
maybe you could increase the size of the cooling holes on the bottom of the nose. make sure you run a nice big spoiler underneath and the z brackets to direct the air to the rad .i think you'll be OK. i know you like hp. if you go real big on the motor i would suggest an aluminum rad but i suggest that any time you go with a monster motor in any daytona. the cops around here wouldn't bust your balls about that. as long as your running real headlights and not driving lights. you told me you were gona put your mind to it and you did. i think its very cleaver. cause during the day, it'll look correct to 99 percent of the people. Rene
Hey Thallium
I like the concept, good luck. :2thumbs: Since I have a lot of the parts already to make the doors work on mine, I'll try that first. I'm also open to other ideas, especially if they're more reliable & won't leave you stranded in the dark somewhere. If I bail on the doors later on, I'm thinking about something similar to what you're doing. I kind of like the idea of having them further apart for more visibility, but since most driving will be in daytime, it's probably not a big deal.
Bob
Thanks Rene, Larry for the compliments. It's not finished yet, but I wanted to show the mock up of what it would look like. All the brakets to hold the lights/turn signals are made and in place. Rene, those turn signals (led's) can be used both as turn signals and parking lights. The turn signals are the only thing I have hooked up at the moment. I'm thinking about hooking up the parking lights to the led'.s.
As for the cooling problem that some of you think I might experience, let me just say that these headlights(not driving lights), are just a tad bigger than the daytona turn signals, the difference should be minimal at best. I'm basically replacing the daytona turn signals with headlights. If I do have a cooling problem when I get this thing running, I'll just fix it like everything else we do when hot rodding cars.
I really don't see myself getting into trouble with the cops around here. The headlights will probably never get used, it's just there in case I get caught in the dark one of these days while driving it. It may see 1 or 2 times a year in the dark.
About cooling. I have found that the opening just needs to be adequate to move air through. I have found that the fan pulling the air through the radiator with a shroud was the biggest issue. I took of my clutch fan and went with a direct dive (kept the original fan) and that baby pulls the air through well at idle and at high speed. You definitely hear the fan. Do the math. Measure the square inches of the opening of your shroud, and compare it with the opening of the grill and the two holes under it. They should equal the same, (If the engineers did their job) for that is all you need. If the opening is smaller than the shroud, then that is where resistance would come into play, but then the fan should be strong enough to pull it through, it would just have to work a little harder. Electric fans do not work, at least that is my experience. The major reason why the Daytona's had a hard time was because of the clutch fan's slippage at idle on a hot summer day. At least that has been my experience.
II agree as daytona guy .I had no luck with the clutch fan .I used a flexalite #1318 I believe thats the part number.And with the car idiling you can feel suction at the grille opening
QuoteI agree as daytona guy
:iagree:
By the way, I got the nose cone fitted onto the car this weekend. This thing looks mean as hell with the nose cone attached. Rene, I attached the nose cone via the Dane method :) I was able to use the original metal latch tray. I won't have to use hood pins. All I had to do was modify the release lever to the latch tray just a bit. Obviously I'm not going for originality, so it didn't matter to me too much. I forgot to take some pictures of the nose cone on the car. Next time I have it on the car, I'll get some pics posted with the original latch tray. Man, I wanted to drive it down the block so bad with the nose cone and wing on!! haha.
Quote from: hotrod98 on January 29, 2006, 10:37:50 AM
Or...he could do it the way that he wants to do it.
You're right Hot rod,those engineers from Chrysler,didn't know shit when they designed those cars to go 200 MPH!Nor did they know shit,when they designed the street cars to do daily street driving either! You guys are way ahead of them! :icon_smile_big:
Chargervert...you just don't get it do you?
We're building CLONES. We really don't care what you think we should do. We don't want a car exactly like the originals. As for original cars, I can drive a different car every day for two weeks straight and still not run out of cars to drive. It's just that now I want something completely different. I don't care where the headlamps are located. I might turn them on once a year, if that.
I plan to drive the hell out of my bird clone. If I total it out, I'll just start building another one. That's the nice thing about clones. They're replacable.
You can build your car your way and we'll build our cars our way.
Someone even mentioned cutting the roof off of it. Man that's a mental picture I didn't need. ::)
Quote from: hotrod98 on January 30, 2006, 09:01:08 PM
Chargervert...you just don't get it do you?
We're building CLONES. We really don't care what you think we should do. We don't want a car exactly like the originals.
You can build your car your way and we'll build our cars our way
Well technicly speaking, to say your building "CLONES", and in the same "breath" say "We don't want a car exactly like the originals" .......is an oxy- moron,............as a "CLONE" is indeed a "copy" of an original!..................what you guys are building, are: ......."abberations" ...................of the original cars,................Which is great!,...because it shows everyone how " diverse "you are! :yesnod:
Mike G/ DAYCLONA
Glossary
From Joseph Andersen,
Your Guide to Physics.
(abberations)
Definition: Optics: A system of optics, failing to produce the true image.
I like that. Maybe my car will be an optical illusion or an optical conclusion. Maybe some of my other cars are optical conclusions. I never did like the term "clone". Sounded too much like we wanted our cars to be something that they're not. Like my challenger convertible's not really a hemi car...it just thinks that it is.
Man, you guys are the greatest.
Quote from: hotrod98 on January 30, 2006, 11:11:28 PM
Glossary
From Joseph Andersen,
Your Guide to Physics.
(abberations)
Definition: Optics: A system of optics, failing to produce the true image.
I like that. Maybe my car will be an optical illusion or an optical conclusion. Maybe some of my other cars are optical conclusions. I never did like the term "clone". Sounded too much like we wanted our cars to be something that they're not. Like my challenger convertible's not really a hemi car...it just thinks that it is.
Man, you guys are the greatest.
Websters: 9th Collegiate Dictionary,......... abberation, ............1 departing from the standard, 2 deviating from the usual, or 3 unsoundness or disorder of the mind, 4 or an aberrant organ or individual............................Gee sounds like some of the people here!.............and Larry ,if you think us guys are the Greatest,..............thanks for the compliment!................icon_smile_big:
Mike G/ DAYCLONA
kool :icon_smile_cool:
Larry don't fall into there bullshit. were talking about what a great job tabor did thinking outside the box. there are some really nice daytona's coming from this board. we helped each other and got it done . before any experts could tell us we are doing it wrong.
picked up the 440 sixpack motor from the machine shop today for the daytona. taking it to the dyno next week to break it in. it's a shame to take the stock 383 out. it runs so good. it's just boring . stock. i want more power scotty.
that hemi sure looks sweet sitting there. whats that your third and dam your shop looks good. can't wait to finish mine.
tabor thats the way i'm mounting my nose. is that called the Dane method. :thumbs:
looks like it will work good that way. well i think after 9 daytona's he should know something. anybody else here built 9 daytona's.
build what you want , how you want it, and drive the shit out of it. :drive:
Rene
life to short for all the bullshit
Quote from: BigBlockSam on January 31, 2006, 12:18:53 AM
we helped each other and got it done . before any experts could tell us we are doing it wrong.
thats the way i'm mounting my nose. is that called the Dane method. :thumbs:
looks like it will work good that way. well i think after 9 daytona's he should know something. anybody else here built 9 daytonas
Rene
Asking a question?,regarding the building of Daytonas?............how about .23 cars, plus complete kits to do 26 cars to date, plus 5.........71 Wingcars...................also.not counting the many other B/E bodies, that have passed thru our shop.................also complete 70 Superbird "kits" are being developed,......................no "bullshit"!
Mike G/ DAYCLONA
Rene,
Don't worry, I haven't fallen. I still like thinking outside of the box a little. I like what Tabor's doing and can't wait to see it finished. Just wished I could see it in person. Maybe he'll meet us in vegas at the sema show in November. I'll continue to build my cars my way.
I know what you mean about pulling those motors. I've built a six pack motor for my 69 bee. I sure hate pulling that 383, but it's not the original motor anyway, it's a warranty replacement.
My wingcar stuff for the bird "abberation" is almost ready to be shipped.
Hey, here's the pic that I didn't show. Sandra's two Trans Ams. The 2000 is the one that I converted from a t-top to a hardtop. It has an LS1, 6-speed and 17" Miglias. The '79 has all Hotchkis suspension, 2" drop spindles, AGR steering gear box and pump, 4 wheel disc and 455 with race prepped 350. I still have the original WS6 wheels, stock 403 and auto in storage.
Theres nothing wrong with thinking outside the box,and if your lucky maybe someone might open the box,and let you out! You guys don't need things like headlights that work! What was I thinking offering up a few different suggestions! Hey Hot Rod, from the looks of your shop,it looks like you take your car building seriously,so I wouldn't think you would want to hack together a non functional clone that you cannot drive! Is that method,like the rythem method,because one slip up and you're ------! :icon_smile_big:
Pete,
Verrrrry funnnny.
Actually, my wife let's me out of the box every morning and locks me back up at night. She has to watch me closely to keep me from buying more cars.
Quote from: chargervert on January 31, 2006, 05:58:10 AM
Is that method,like the rythem method,because one slip up and you're ------! :icon_smile_big:
Smart asses ;D By the way, while we are in the smart ass department, I might as well join in. You know you may be right. I may just stop what I'm doing and get the dayclona parts. If I go the dayclona route, I can spend over $10k on parts if not more and never have enough to finish my project so it can sit in the driveway and I can stare at it for all eternity. If I go with "Dane's method", it cost me around $2,000 for all the parts which includes an aluminum wing and I can actually drive the car down the road in the near future. hmmmmm. Hard decision........Stare at the car? or drive it down the road? hmmmm...... Screw it, Lets stare at it!!!!!!
All I'm saying is there is more than one way to skin a cat sometimes. I know it's not the way you would do it, but I know my limitations/ skill level and how much money I have to complete this project. Just trying to make a decent "abberation" I can drive down the street and have fun with. That's all, just tyring to have fun....
BTW, I have noticed dayclona is selling "abberation" daytona wings for $3k. The base of the wing is a little off. It's been pointed out here before in another thread.
Well if you have the unlimited funds get the good wingcar stuff As I instructed daytonalo to do .But he has been able to make his own parts.And done well so far on the route he choose to take .And has access to my original daytona as reference along the way.And has seen one of my clone 318 AC 70 daytona before built in 78 -80s in the past.And has almost got the hard work done.Its nice now that theres every part under the sun available and vendors making more .It always wasnt that way.I had to retro fit and make something work.I had to use a screen door storm cylinder support bracket on my headlight pivot bracket.It was flat hollow up the center and just needed a hole drilled in it.This car here I had got nearly finished on a superbird project car trade from a friend has alot of my retro fitted items done to it.But its what I did for me.Do what works for you.and what you have to work with.I later had a superbird with electric headlights
Just call us the abberation generation.
Let's see if I understand this correctly. The only people that don't like what we're doing, are the people that we're not buying parts from, the people that we ARE buying parts from, the people that own real Daytonas and Superbirds and the people that think we're destroying nice original cars. Does that cover it? Oh yeah, and the guys that wish they had a clone. :yesnod:
hey nascarxx29
nice car! i love all daytona's original factory built ones or our recreations. i'm gonna try to visit daytonalo in the near future. i'm only 40 minutes away. i'd dig meeting you too.
Tabor well said. what are you gonna do with the motor stock? how did the stinger nose fit to tthe fenders?
larry you converted from a t-top to a hardtop? thats alot of work no? did you get the superbird parts from showcars or the other guy in canada. Rene
Ive owned real superbirds in the late 70-80-s and currently a daytona .And have had help build clone superbird ragtop on a original FM3 70 satelitte convertible for the owner of several real superbirds..And I have no trouble with clones being built by boardmembers or anyone whatsoever .I realize there not enough of the real thing around .And what it currently cost.Im not the least upset by it at all .Its more like imitation is flattery.
1969 Daytona 440 Presently owned
1970 Coronet 500 383 Presently owned
1970 Superbird 440 U 166242 Sold.But found once and lost track of it
1970 Superbird 440 U 174597 Sold.But found and lost track of it
1970 Superbird 440-6 V 179697 Cars in barns totalled out car entitled OUCH
1970 Coronet RT 440 U 224126 Sold.Relocated and been to see it
1968 Road Runner 426 J 134509 Sold Found once and never seen or heard from
1970 Daytona Replica 318 G 178701 Sold.Found the current owner of it
Rene,
I'm getting the bird parts from other guy in Canada. So far I like what I've seen. The nose is fiberglass and the wing is steel.
let me know how that goes with those guys. the price sounds good . i got a 70 satellite body in storage. needs alot of help but it might be cool to do something with it in the future and i have a pair of coronet fenders. this yr i'm gonna finsih the 68 r/t and the daytona.
i picked up a 69 hp motor for $400. my wife says i'm nuts. that makes 12 440's 6 running and 6 in strorage. you don't find alot of 440's in the northeast. Rene
I can think of 2 Canadian wing car part suppliers .Ive never used any of there stuff to comment on1 is Don Currie unique movie props metal inclusive kit $6500.00 I think .and R Johnson showcar body parts unlimited
Hey Thallium,I never said for you to buy Dayclonas parts,I merely offered you a few alternative suggestions to put your headlights in the correct spot! If you don't want input,then don't ask for it!I took the time to tell you how to correctly cut your fenders so you could attach your valence correctly,I am making suggestions to help you! For your information Mikes wing is correct in every detail to my original wing,which FYI was the template for it! Maybe you may want to take a closer look before you bash someones parts who is far more informed about wingcars,than you,me or Dane!If you want to build your car with a $1.99 roll of duct tape,thats your buisness,but if you ask us our opinion,then I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one trying to discourge you from doing it that way! It wasn't that long ago Dane was saying that you don't need to run wing washers,or wing braces! Dane has changed his tune on that one!
i think he's talking about unique movie props . they've got some nice wing cars on there website plus some cool bat phones.
boy don't you wish people would stop telling everyone how to act. :violin:
If you're not interested in my responses,then spare me the comments!
Okay...that's it...everyone out of the pool. ::)
Or do you mean everyone out of the box! :icon_smile_big:
Quote from: chargervert on January 31, 2006, 05:00:05 PM
For your information Mikes wing is correct in every detail to my original wing,which FYI was the template for it! Maybe you may want to take a closer look before you bash someones parts who is far more informed about wingcars,than you,me or Dane!
Hey fine, if you say your wing is original than it's original. You say maybe I need to take a closer look before bashing someones parts. Okay, I'm taking a closer look. Look for yourself..... I'm not here to bash anyone's parts, but there is a difference between these two wings. The base is longer in the front and overall the whole wing is wider.
For some reason, you think I'm arguing with you or fighting with you. To me, we are having a constructive discussion and having fun at the same time :) I love that word abberation........ fun word.
Oh, and don't get mad. we're having fun. You guys dish it out all the time, so you can take a little too. Remember when you threw the fat lady on Dane's wing? same thing applies here with the abberation wing picture.
Quote from: BigBlockSam on January 31, 2006, 05:17:49 PM
i think he's talking about unique movie props . they've got some nice wing cars on there website plus some cool bat phones.
Rene,
That's the guy. After talking to Janek about his bird wing, I realized that I needed to buy the steel wing from Don instead. Turns out his steel wing is around the same price as Janek's fiberglass wing. He builds 5 sets at a time to keep cost down. He just finished his steel plug for the back glass. I'm impressed enough that I've decided to go ahead and do the back glass as well. I'll finish it out though and not use a vinyl top.
As soon as he gets the daytona stuff ready I'll get them as well.
hey Larry sounds very cool. did you see the black daytona on there site sweeeeeeeeet!
did you see the bat phones?
Quote from: BigBlockSam on January 31, 2006, 12:12:54 PM
Tabor well said. what are you gonna do with the motor stock? how did the stinger nose fit to tthe fenders?
Rene, I picked up a 440 for $300 when I bought the car. I've pulled the dip stick and there is a little bit of metal on the dip stick. When I tear open the motor if the crank is wasted, I'll end up getting a stroker crank 4.15. If the crank is fine, i'll build a 440.
Actually the nose cone is from the guy in Canada. Showcars body parts. It fit really nice and looks really mean on the car. I'll get some pictures next time I have it on the car.
Yea baby, Stroker! yea we share that need for speed. i'm gonna put out some extra bucks and have this motor dyno'ed. i always wanted to do that. have it broken in and tuned before i install it. i'm hoping to get about 450 hp at the crank. Rene
Quote from: thallium on January 31, 2006, 10:59:22 PM
Quote from: chargervert on January 31, 2006, 05:00:05 PM
For your information Mikes wing is correct in every detail to my original wing,which FYI was the template for it! Maybe you may want to take a closer look before you bash someones parts who is far more informed about wingcars,than you,me or Dane!
Hey fine, if you say your wing is original than it's original. You say maybe I need to take a closer look before bashing someones parts. Okay, I'm taking a closer look. Look for yourself..... I'm not here to bash anyone's parts, but there is a difference between these two wings. The base is longer in the front and overall the whole wing is wider.
For some reason, you think I'm arguing with you or fighting with you. To me, we are having a constructive discussion and having fun at the same time :) I love that word abberation........ fun word.
Oh, and don't get mad. we're having fun. You guys dish it out all the time, so you can take a little too. Remember when you threw the fat lady on Dane's wing? same thing applies here with the abberation wing picture.
Oh Tallium, when you compare pics, try to get ones on the same angle, incase your not aware, a "wing" can appear shorter, taller, wider, etc as the camera angle, or type of lens varies.............................but my tape measure dose not!, I've had the oppertunity to measure a few of those solid cast "Dane" wings, the bases vary by a 1/2 inch, the height, varies to 1/2'- 1" shorter than originals, and there's no need to justify this , as each and every "solid cast" wing will vary do to circumstances beyond ones control when casting these wings, and dressing them out also, very much like the originals....................also was Dane letting them use his fiberglass wing as the pattern to sand cast the repro?.......Hmmmm?????????................................and as far as "throwing" the fat lady up on a wing!..............more like a crane "lowered" her on! :icon_smile_big: .............watch out Tallium, you might wake up one morning, and find "Miss LuLu" stress testing your wing! :icon_smile_blackeye: you can now resume building that "abberation" of a daytona!
Mike G/ DAYCLONA
PS.........Tallium, your computers IP #, has been on my DAYCLONA website 142 times, I guess you must be taking notes, or wishful thinking?.....................and yes I can correlate all IP's that visit, what they download/ veiw, # of hits per day, week, month,etc.........and so much more!
When I start a thread, I consider it a compliment when other people post on it. Tabor's our daytona abberation friend and I don't think he gets very upset...well except when people tell him he's doing something wrong. If I think someone's doing something wrong, I'll pm them and keep that conversation private. I find that these threads tell me a lot about the people that post on them.
Heck, at least we're talking about the clones...uhh...I mean abberations. ;D
Quote I'm just shocked though at the pissin' thats going on between whats right and whats wrong in building a clone.
:iagree:
never use to happen. i wonder why it happens now? :rant:
i thought the difference in wing bottoms were because they were all hand finished originally , so there would be differences, thats what someone that is very knowledgeable about wing cars told my bud. Rene
Mark,
I'm like a lot of the guys here. If I still had all of the musclecars that I've owned throughout the years, I would never have to work again. Now I have a few matching #'s cars, a few non #'s cars and a few clones. Some of these cars I've held on to for family members and the rest will go to my two children. People are still bringing cars by the dealership because someone told them that I buy mopars. That's how I bought the rust free california 74 charger. I just couldn't say no. My biggest problem though is not having enough time to restore and maintain them.
BTW, what parts do you need for your car? I just found a steel trunk lid reinforcement panel. I'm going to take it by a shop here and see if they can reproduce it. Would be a lot better than those fg pieces for sure. If they can build it, I'll just let people buy it at my cost plus shipping. I'll probably be building some more of those wing braces as well.
Hey Thallium, I tried to offer a few suggestions to help you with your headlights,I suggested making your covers removable,and mounting your lights recessed. Thats not the way I am doing mine,but I thought it may work for you,since it sounded to me like you did not want to spend the cash to buy the parts that are available to make them function properly! Then I suggested you look at the way daytonalo,did his headlight set up,which is also not the way I am doing mine either,but he made it work! I thought these suggestions would help you out! I wasn't bashing anyone,the next thing I know,I get Everyone jumping on my shit for making a couple of suggestions! Believe me I can take whatever I or anyone else dishes out! I don't let what people say bother me too much,I just lob it right back at them! I don't think things like working headlights should be a luxury,they are a necessary! I go to a lot of cruise nights with my cars,and I need my lights to get home almost every time! I have put up with my fair share of bullshit,while trying to offer some information,that I believe you guys will find valuable. I have had to do,then redo my car to make it as original,and that was my choice to do so! You may choose to use some of the tips and info,I pass on to you from my experiences,or not listen to any of it,that is your choice,but atleast it was offered to you guys!And maybe when you leave the cruise night,and flip that headlight switch,and drive home safely without endangering you,your car,or anyone else,you will think about the tips the other guys gave you to help you with your project,that is what this forum is for! Sometimes we really hash it out here!,theres a few people who called me obscene names,and wont speak to me anymore,that don't bother me,hell,I hear that shit all day at the prison where I work! I'm pretty hard to offend! I know not everyone can afford to,or,wants to spend the money on the high end wingcar parts! I thought Daytonalo,is doing an excellent job building his car on a budget! It's not the way I am doing mine,but it still works for him,and it will function well too! I still make recommendations to him,he may not agree with me,but it may make him rethink a part,and maybe try it another way,even if it is not what I suggested! I had my differences with Dave about the parts problem I had on my car,from a vendor who happens to be a friend of his,but I can still respect the info that Dave brings to the threads,he has a lot of good information,about wingcars,and has been collecting it for a lot of years!You can build your car anyway you want,and if it works thats great,if it fails,don't say that we didn't tell you so! If you don't mind,I will offer my input,good,bad or indifferent,to try to help you out with your project! I'm not independantly wealthy either,I don't think I would be working at the jail if I was,but I have found that the key to getting a wingcar clone that will last,isn't how much money you spend to build it,but more of spending what you have alloted for the project wisely! Good luck with the project! P.S. on the lighter side,you wouldn't want to see Lu Lu sitting up there on the wing beside you,would you! :icon_smile_big:Just kidding!
Thanks chargervert. I appreciate the input. There is a lot of estrogen in the air, but I guess it makes for a good read. haha.
I have found that even when the threads get a little out of hand,there is still a lot of good info that gets passed around! My car is not finished yet,and I am still learning a lot of things that I didn't know about these cars! I am planing to build a second Daytona after I get some of my other cars done. I may do one in race trim,or maybe a replica of one of the racecars! I have a spare Charger body out back.
I agree with you Pete. I think that a little rumbling and rambling are good. I enjoyed this thread very much. I don't think Tabor feels like we hijacked his thread. We've weaved back and forth and a lot of new stuff always seems to come out. Bottom line is we all love wing cars. I'll probably never own a real one, but I might buy one some day. My wife and I had even thought seriously about buying Dave's (BK) '69 500/daytona conversion. We decided in the end that we would probably enjoy a couple of wing car clones more.
Personally, I get just as excited seeing a nice looking clone as I do a real one and in some cases even more so. I absolutely love Mike and Gary's third gen cars. I may build something similar out of my 74 Charger just to drive around town. I don't have the access to the knowledge that they have but I can probably throw something together.
BTW, thanks for the great thread Tabor.
Well at least I can see that even with some comments going back and forth at least everyone is being civil.
There is nothing wrong with offering up suggestions. I really like reading the thousands of different ways people have done things over the years. I for one love that. Because I know that I'm the type that tries to do things differently and see if I can either have a better result or at least the same result with less work, or less money involved. If there is a way to cut a corner and still get the job done right, then I'm all for it. Now if that means something doesn't work, or doesn't fit just right then its also good to hear it from someone who already tried to cut that corner adn found out you can't.
Quote from: thallium on February 01, 2006, 11:49:02 PM
Thanks chargervert. I appreciate the input. There is a lot of estrogen in the air, but I guess it makes for a good read. haha.
Well, if there's Estrogen in the air, someone's "leaven a trail like a snail"...........I think you mean Testarone,.......Jerone! :icon_smile_big:
And maybe a little testosterone to boot...
Quote from: dayclona on February 02, 2006, 06:39:22 PM
Quote from: thallium on February 01, 2006, 11:49:02 PM
Thanks chargervert. I appreciate the input. There is a lot of estrogen in the air, but I guess it makes for a good read. haha.
Well, if there's Estrogen in the air, someone's "leaven a trail like a snail"...........I think you mean Testarone,.......Jerone! :icon_smile_big:
No Mike, I think he's talking about all the bitching and cat fighting, like it's some sort of heavy flow day. :icon_smile_kisses:
I guess thats what they mean by go with the flow! :icon_smile_big:
yep, I meant we are acting like sissy lala's or little girls. ha!.
<<< It wasn't that long ago Dane was saying that you don't need to run wing washers, or wing braces! Dane has changed his tune on that one!>>>
Just to note. I never said, ever, that one did not need to use wing washers. That is a miss quote. I said that depending on the use of your Daytona clone, you may not need wing bracing. If you are not planning on going 120+ it is not necessary to use wing bracing. I stand by this because it is a fact. Here is a 70 Charger RT that had a dealer installed original Daytona wing. NOT fiberglass. We bought it from the original owner who worked at Tektronix in Beaverton, OR, who had the wing installed. Came with wing washers only. I raced this car at PIR in Portland. I had it over 120 plus (Not in the Q) and never ever had a problem in 15 years of this wing on this car with the quarter panels. I have been consistent with my opinions. Do what you want, it is up to you, depending on your use.
(http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/9936/yellowbrents1ph.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/8053/yellowbrent6mh.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/4280/yellowdane8lm.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
I do see a deference in those wings regardless of the measurements. The radiuses of the base of that steel wing looks off.
I have never owned a fiberglass wing. I do not make my wing castings from a fiberglass wing. They are made from an original that came from this 70 Charger RT. Using an original wing assures the same shape, but not the same size. I have never said otherwise and my postings in context bear that out.
About "Aberrations" and "Clones". I have been doing this a long time. People will usually use words to try to convey an opinion. Either they want to belittle someone or they want to show respect. For example if someone did not like what I did they called my car a "Fake". Which by the way is the most accurate term for all none originals. For to clone something is not possible with a car, or if one did a exact copy it would be illegal. A clone is the exact copy, all the way down to the genes, plant or animal. For example, my fraternal twins are clones. They share the exact same genes. The only thing different with a fraternal twin is their finger prints.
So lets all be honest, aberrations, replicas and clones are fakes (Imitation), but fake could have a disrespectful flavor to it along with aberration and the intent is to belittle. I hope that is not what we are about.
Tabor, you are doing a great job.
Dane have a question for you.
Is the Yellow 70 charger with the wing, the same car as in the other pictures? As in did you change the color of it while you owned it, or are those pictures of other cars you added wings to over the years?
Clone, fake, abberation, or whatever you want to call it to me is all the same. It not a real Daytona, but that doesn't mean that it isn't a great looking car to me. I like them all, yeah I prefer a real Daytona, but I can't afford one. Will I some day probably build a clone YEAH. But I also plan on one day owning a real one to.
Yes, the blue and yellow are the same car. The black one was the first one we did back in 1980 the blue in 81.
I agree. I could care less about the name clone, fake, aberration, replica or imitation. I love my car, and I have a blast driving it. I have 4 kids and not a ton of jack and was able to improvise over the years to get them done.
I could never spend 20,000.00 on my cars for parts with 4 kids, collage and a mortgage. What is great though, is when I pull in to a show and take Best Mopar and others who have spent 40,000.00 or more jack don't place. It gives me some satisfaction that I am doing a good job. But, If I had the jack and money was not an issue I would buy the high dolor parts. I will not run down the expensive or the inexpensive parts, but I do think it is OK in a respectful way to point out the differences.
You can spend 2000.00 or 20,000.00 on parts and I think the options are great to have. When I retire and have more jack, It would be nice to make a more identical clone.
i've always liked how 70 r/t's look with just the wing and no nose. they look fast standing still.
Well, this is probably going to crank the thread up again,but who wants a car that looks like it could go 200 MPH,but shouldn't go over 120 MPH,for fear that it might start coming apart! This is why I try to stress to build durable,and functional wingcars,this can be done within all different budgets! A stock 440 Charger R/T is capable of speeds in excess of 140 MPH,so wouldn't it be smart to put parts on the car,that would be capable of handling those speeds! I'm not saying that I am going out to drive my cars on the streets @ 140 MPH or more,but I have had my Charger over 140 MPH! If you just want to build cars that look fast,then thats your choice,but I want my Daytona,to be able to do everything,that an original Daytona could do! Chrysler put those braces on because they knew what speeds the cars were capable of!If the Daytona,was just meant to be an appearance package,,then i doubt that Chrysler would have gone through the trouble of bracing,and supporting all the aero pieces! If I choose to drive the car @ 140 MPH plus,then I know that I could! If not,then its a lot cheaper to build YUGOS!
<<<who wants a car that looks like it could go 200 MPH,but shouldn't go over 120 MPH,for fear that it might start coming apart! >>>
I took my Daytona (pic above) over 120 many times and it did not "come a part". So you are wrong again. It was in the testing of the Daytona at speeds of over 180 to 200 that they witnessed the trunk buckle. So here are Chrysler engineers testing these Daytona wings WITH OUT wing bracing at speeds of 180 plus to even discover the NEED for wing bracing. So let me see if you can follow this. Theoretically—If they could not get the car to go over 180, and therefore would NOT have had the trunk buckle, the engineers would have considered the wing washers a success. (The 180 would have been the failure—smile) I have had 9 Daytona's that have all been at high speeds and never had them give me a problem. Yet you can only speak in preventative terms with no facts to back it up. Yet, we do have the results of Chrysler engineers, as just stated, and I feel comfortable about what I have experienced. I will never take my car over 140 MPH. My hat is off to you.
Again, are you completely clueless? My point was not to debate this issue but was to correct your misuse of my Name and a quote that was untrue. That is a fact. The proper response would be, Gee Dane, I am sorry for misquoting you". I would have said, "No problem, have a good one". That is called civility. You said I did not see the need for "wing washers" and then you said I flip flopped on my belief, and that is completely untrue. Do you know the difference between wing washers and wing bracing? I hope so. But you do not know the difference between being a gentleman and being what you are and I think that most on this board can see that.
I understand that most, including me will be putting wing bracing on their cars. For me it is for cosmetics, for others it is because they feel better and secure having them, for still others it is because they are going to do speeds of 140+. I agree with all the above.
<<<I'm not saying that I am going out to drive my cars on the streets @ 140 MPH or more, but I have had my Charger over 140 MPH! >>>
Then you use wing bracing. It is OK. No qualms here. More power to you. Do you see me telling people NOT TO? No, I am saying to make your own choice by what you plan on doing.
I do not race mine. I do not plan on ever taking mine over 100 MPH. I just do not care too. Is that OK? Or, am I going to get insulted for saying that?
<<<If not,then its a lot cheaper to build YUGOS!>>> What ever...
Yes it would, but lets see... build a Yugo...... build a Daytona...... Daytona wins.
Dane,I have heard you tell people that the braces are cosmetic,and I believe you said the same thing about the washers! If your saying you didn't say that about the washers,that is not as I remembered it,but it was a while back,so I may have remembered that part incorectly,and if I did,then I am sorry for the misquote.But it is no misquote about the braces! How much would the rear quarters have had to move to buckle the trunklid! Its not even attached to the wing! The streetcars were not capable of 180 MPH in stock trim,so why would the engineers bother to put them on a streetcar,especially if they were in a mad rush to get the cars done,if they werent needed! I know that I'm not running my car,with that wing on it,without all of the bracing on it that they came with from Chrysler! I paid $2500.00 for the flawless rear quarter cutoffs that I have for my car,and I'm not going to take any chances with them buckling,or stretching!And for someone to run one without them,now that would be clueless!
<<<I may have remembered that part incorectly,and if I did,then I am sorry for the misquote.>>>
Not a problem
<<<But it is no misquote about the braces! How much would the rear quarters have had to move to buckle the trunklid! >>>
Not the trunk lid, but the trunk. The upper back quarters where considered the trunk as well. I have seen the pics. It was where the back of the wing sits. The trunk lid was untouched. As I recall, it was not some massive failure either that one might envision.
<<<so why would the engineers bother to put them on a street car, especially if they were in a mad rush to get the cars done, if they weren't needed! >>>
Homologation
<<<I paid $2500.00 for the flawless rear quarter cutoffs that I have for my car,and I'm not going to take any chances with them buckling,or stretching!And for someone to run one without them,now that would be clueless!>>
At the speeds you are talking and for your well being that sounds appropriate for you. I would not want to lead you away from that.
yea, you know what 140 mph is, I've done it 3 times in my life. oh, i went 170 mph. oh i went 130 mph. your ass. thats when all the rules change. if your on a bike, which i have been and you blink to hard it moves you over several feet. I'm certified by the NhRA to go under 10 second. I've done it in a car and a bike,.its scary , we build this cars for fun. enjoy and build what you want. Peace Rene
The fastest that I've driven is 168 mph in the quarter mile and 148 in the 1000 ft with my pro comp dragster. I would never ever drive any of my musclecars at even 100 mph. My dragster is designed to go that fast safely. In my opinion, my street cars are not. I've never had any of my street cars over 90 mph and don't intend to. If I ever get one of my wing cars together, trust me, I will not be testing the structural integrity of wing.
cool dragster. I've always wanted a nostalgic dragster. like Don Garlits front engine one.
I owned Dickie Harrell's 69 funny car back in the mid 70's and later owned and raced one of the rare woody gilmore rear engine top fuel dragsters. Not one of the converted front motor cars, but a real rear engined car. He didn't build very many of those before he quit building cars.
As for the funny car, valerie harrel, dickie's daughter, owns the car now and she and dale pulde are going to restore it. It was the same car that he won the 70 world finals with. I sure miss those old cars, but I don't miss driving them. That rear engine dragster had the old style steering, butterfly wheel and hand brake. It was all that I could handle just getting the chute out and getting of the track without destroying something. I owned three more dragsters after that and I had them all custom built and they drove great.
The good old days weren't all that good sometimes.
Here's a pic of my last car.
The question I have is on Lee Scilios record breaking daytona .Thats been over 200 MPH .Are his fiberglass parts .Any different than the ones someone building a street clone would use?The 70 daytona clone I sold from being built in the early 80-s.Was subjected to high speeds.And 1/4 mile duty.And these were the early 78 quaility line of parts.And not the improved materials of today .And not even a stress crack.It had a real 500 back glass with fiberglass window plug .I feel alot of parts failure comes to the workmanship methods of the installer
to go 200 mph with a fiberglass wing, yes it has to be reinforced, BIG TIME! I've heard stories of fiberglass wings shaking at 110 mph.
:popcrn:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v502/OldMoparz/Wackier%20Photos/BubblewrapDumbassf.jpg)
Quote from: nascarxx29 on February 08, 2006, 09:06:38 AM
The question I have is on Lee Scilios record breaking daytona .Thats been over 200 MPH .Are his fiberglass parts .Any different than the ones someone building a street clone would use?The 70 daytona clone I sold from being built in the early 80-s.Was subjected to high speeds.And 1/4 mile duty.And these were the early 78 quaility line of parts.And not the improved materials of today .And not even a stress crack.It had a real 500 back glass with fiberglass window plug .I feel alot of parts failure comes to the workmanship methods of the installer
You may have a good point. Good work on your clone.
Gary Scelzi let me drive his HEMI in the last Nationals and I went 330 MPH and this plastic body fell a part at 180 MPH. :icon_smile_big: :icon_smile_cool:
(http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/7619/gary20scelzi1rv.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
aren't those bodies made of carbon fiber?
I'm sure they use the latest tec, I was just having fun. I guess I would need to go back a few more years ;)
Way back maybe.
This is the actual car that I owned in the mid 70's after Dick Harrell was killed. That car body was so heavy that it took two guys to lift it or one really strong guy. It was one of the reasons that I decided to sell it in '77 right before I got married. That and the fact that I needed the money for college.
Cool looking car Larry, I had to do a double take thinking it may have been a Challenger at first. :2thumbs:
very cool car larry. i thought it was a challenger at first too
It looks a lot like the challenger funny car that was at the Columbia swap meet this last weekend.
I think RD posted a pic of it earlier this week. My funny car was a 69 camaro.
I owned a real SS RS 396 4-speed camaro a few years later.
Here is the calculation for down force (on teh wing) from our Philadelphia Wind Tunnel Manager:
The force generated by a wing is directly proportional to the square of the speed. So if you double the speed, the force goes up four times. It's a squared relationship. You can do a rough approximation of the force with the following:
Downward Force = 0.00384 x (wing area) x (speed in MPH)
Assuming the wing is 2 ft by 6 ft, the wing area = 12sqft
At 50 mph the force = 0.00384 x 12 x (50)^2 = 115lbs
At 100mph the force = 0.00384 x 12 x (100)^2 = 460 lbs
3X
So a 6" X 5' wing would have 96 lbs of downforce at 100 mph and 384 lbs of downforce at 200 mph? Sounds plausible.
That would mean that the wing on my Top Comp dragster which was approximately 1' x 4' would have had approximately 433.5 lbs of downforce at 168 mph. I could believe that easily.
at what speed do you feel a daytona or superbird squat? i've heard that you can feel the car get tighter to the road. Rene
Quote from: hotrod98 on February 10, 2006, 09:53:06 AM
So a 6" X 5' wing would have 96 lbs of downforce at 100 mph and 384 lbs of downforce at 200 mph? Sounds plausible.
That would mean that the wing on my Top Comp dragster which was approximately 1' x 4' would have had approximately 433.5 lbs of downforce at 168 mph. I could believe that easily.
additional data is required, such as wing "inclination" to determine a truer downforce end result, also if airfoil section is inverted, also what design airfoil/ profile,.(ex. Clark Y, D or SW design,etc,etc).............as this can substantially change the above formulas............food for though?
Mike G/ DAYCLONA
Pics of the nosecone attached. I took this picture before I got the rubber moulding the surrounds the nose cone on. The headlight doors are secured shut. Next week I'm going to try and pull out the engine and trans and get those rebuilt. Then it's time to paint.... As I get crap done, I'll keep this thread updated.
You are doing a freaking great job. Fitment is always fun. On my yellow one I redid my sides on my nose to match perfect. Even the originals had their issues. I find that because mine is a clone people seemed to be more critical, so I just made it look better than the original. Notice the '70 the fender how it bows ... the nose cones did not quite match up to the radius of the fender.
Keep up the great work... Your getting it done.
(http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/46/pict06825ew.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
Got an idea for your headlights. You can get a tinted plex-glass that is similar to the turn signal color and put it over the lights. (Not too dark, just enough to trick the eye) In the daytime they will appear to be turn signals, but at night the power of the light will show bright and the yellow will not be noticeable. It could make them even more stealthy. Just a thought.
I love your idea. I might look into doing that on my next Daytona, but try to find a headlamp that is similar is size to the turn signal. I will also be joining the nose to the fenders like the Mystery 70 Daytona.
Dane,
I'm sure that you've seen this bird clone before with the nose blended into the fenders. Looks kind of radical with that long front end. I saw this car at the nats a few years ago and instantly wanted to build a wing car. My bird clone won't have the nose blended into the fenders, but it will definitely not look like a stock bird.
http://www.cars-on-line.com/23909.html
Quote from: thallium on February 12, 2006, 09:49:14 PM
Pics of the nosecone attached. I took this picture before I got the rubber moulding the surrounds the nose cone on. The headlight doors are secured shut. Next week I'm going to try and pull out the engine and trans and get those rebuilt. Then it's time to paint.... As I get crap done, I'll keep this thread updated.
Thanks for adding more photos, it's a good source of motivation. If I had some damn heat in the garage I might be out there more this time of year to do some test fitting as well. (In the 20's today, so that means very cold hand tools.)
What a great Bird. I have not seen that. The Bird's nose fit better from the get go, and the Daytona looks so bad that it looks like a home made job from the start. That is why I want to do one molded with clean lines. I will see.
Tabor,
Thanks for posting the updated pics. We enjoy seeing your progress.
What did you finally decide as far as the engine is concerned?
Tabor, I did not see were you posted about this in ealier threads, so I will ask. Are you doing a rear window plug? If so from where? Where did you purchase the nose and wing? I have considered this for my car. The car is looking great. Thanks. . .
Larry, this is going to sound like a crime, but I'm probably going to rebuild the 318 that is in it and put it back into the car. I've got a balls out 440 for the 68 and it's a really responsive engine and more torque than I can lay down. People are going to hate this, but to each his own. I'de like to make this into a commuter car so I can drive it to work everyday. Not only would it get around 15 mpg, but I could litterally drive this car to work every day. It would get more "show time" out on the streets and people would actually get to see one of these things instead of sitting in my garage and only driven on weekends. I want to make this car into something that is driven everywhere for me, not just here or there, but is my main mode of transportation. It's not definate yet, I have a 440 sitting in the garage I can use, but I am considering using the 318.
As for the rear window, I'm going to leave it alone. I know my limitations and skill level and know when I've bitten off more than I can chew.
The wing I got from a member here on dc.com, but I don't think he's in the business of selling them. He kinda was already making one for himself and I just caught him at the right time and he just made me an extra one. You can buy fiberglass ones as cheap as $800, but I was able to get an aluminum one for $600, so I went with the aluminum one.
The nose cone and front end parts I got from a place called showcars body parts. The parts are reasonable and I was able to get all my parts front end and wing for around $2,000. The only thing I would suggest is buying the headlight doors from someone else. They were cut sloppy and made it hard to get them to fit right in the nose.
Tabor,
I understand the 318 thing completely and applaud you for doing your own thing. Just remember, while you're out cruising up and down the highway, the guys with the big motors are stopping at the gas station every few miles. lol
I myself, have to make a decision regarding the driveline for the bird clone that I'm building this summer. I have an extra complete 440 six pack motor from air cleaner to pan, fresh and ready to bolt in and the 426 crate motor that I bought for the chal convert. However, I've been seriously thinking about using a 5.7 hemi and 5 speed automatic trans. My wife loves her late model 5.9 liter/od tranny setup in her cuda and the 25 mpg is nice on those long trips and it always starts and runs so smoothly. I really want to drive this car and would love to have a reliable good running engine.
I think you're definitely making a good decision with the 318.
Hey Tabor,
I will also say don't worry about the engine size & use what works best for you. I've got 2 cars with 318's in them, & don't care what people think. If I had swapped to a big block like I would have initially wanted to, I'd have parts all over & wouldn't have either of them together at all. By the way, I'm prpobably going to hold off on the window plug too, since I'm in the same postition with body work qualifications as yourself.
Bob
What is nice about holding off on the rear window it allows you to get the job done. You can then enjoy your car because you can see the end in sight. You can always add the rear window later after you recoup and get geared up for round two. You know what it is like with these cars, they are never done... Just adding the rear window later can keep your focus and energy on that task alone, if you want to do it at all.
hey Tabor
your daytona's looking great. put a nice pair of headers on that 318. so it sounds good and some tunes for the head. then drive the hell out of it. what color you gonna paint it. Rene
hey that yellow 70 bird has a 70 charger front end as you can tell by the hood-MATT
Coronet fenders and a modified charger hood. The car is tubbed and caged.