I could let this go and it probably wouldn't be a problem but I've been thinking of possible fixes too. One idea I had is to install a rivet, drill it out to the proper diameter and trim the sides. Another idea is drill it bigger and epoxy some nylon bushings in place. One more idea is to use fender washers screwed or riveted to each other on opposite sides.
Anyway, have you tried a fix or am I getting too obsessive?
You could try some SEM bumper repair #68422
metal fuel line as a spacer? I know hardware stores have metal bushings you can probably make work
Bryan
Nah, not obsessive, you want it to work correctly right?
I'd try one of two things, one would be use a holesaw or cone cutter to get the egg hole out to a uniform size 3/4" and then insert a pvc disc of the same dia and similar material and glue it and drill it to the shaft size after determining the centerline for the pivot rod. At least after sanding & painting it would still appear to be stock( ish). Maybe if you take a holesaw core out of another piece of pvc then that core could be used for the insert to be drilled.
I had to make up a bush to take the slop out of the shifter linkage where it joins onto the selector shaft coming up from the trans, works fine for me and its hidden anyway. Just had a block of pvc to work with at the get go.
Or get someone with a lathe to machine you up a bush out of high impact pvc ( I'm thinking of the food grade type conveyor belt rollers here ) that would insert into the hole after you have un-''egged'' it
I like the idea of a bushing, but the fender washers on the side would probably work too. The trick might be getting the repair centered right, if it's nice and tight but a little off center it might make it bind? Maybe use a fender washer and some carpet tape to make sure the hole is right on before you do a permanent repair?
I riveted stainless steel washers onto mine. No future rust issues.
Quote from: Fred on June 23, 2013, 01:26:11 AM
I riveted stainless steel washers onto mine. No future rust issues.
You must have done it on one side or the other because I noticed after posting this that there's not a whole lot of extra room there. Any pics by chance?
don't drive at night I would jb weld it and redrill the hole
Quote from: oldgold69 on June 23, 2013, 02:52:17 PM
don't drive at night I would jb weld it and redrill the hole
I was just about to type the same thing. Except I'd try the plastic repair two part epoxy and drill it to size.
I'm sort of leaning toward nylon bushings, if I can find the right size. Although the epoxy idea has a lot of merit.
Quote from: bull on June 23, 2013, 03:32:11 PM
I'm sort of leaning toward nylon bushings, if I can find the right size. Although the epoxy idea has a lot of merit.
I used nylon bushings when I put the headlight pivots together in the Daytona...found them at Lowes, had to trim the length down a bit...been working since the mid 90's when car was built
Bryan
Quote from: A383Wing on June 23, 2013, 03:50:31 PM
Quote from: bull on June 23, 2013, 03:32:11 PM
I'm sort of leaning toward nylon bushings, if I can find the right size. Although the epoxy idea has a lot of merit.
I used nylon bushings when I put the headlight pivots together in the Daytona...found them at Lowes, had to trim the length down a bit...been working since the mid 90's when car was built
Bryan
I was just going to head to Lowe's to look for some but thought I'd check here first. :2thumbs: Did you glue/epoxy them in place or just make them fit snug?
Quote from: bull on June 23, 2013, 05:02:08 PM
Quote from: A383Wing on June 23, 2013, 03:50:31 PM
Quote from: bull on June 23, 2013, 03:32:11 PM
I'm sort of leaning toward nylon bushings, if I can find the right size. Although the epoxy idea has a lot of merit.
I used nylon bushings when I put the headlight pivots together in the Daytona...found them at Lowes, had to trim the length down a bit...been working since the mid 90's when car was built
Bryan
I was just going to head to Lowe's to look for some but thought I'd check here first. :2thumbs: Did you glue/epoxy them in place or just make them fit snug?
no glue..just a snug fit....I jut went through the drawers that had all the white bushings in, picked & choosed...
Bryan
Me too. Found some long ones with an ID a smidge too small and drilled them one size bigger than 3/16". Did you use a drill to cut the holes out in the door? Problem I have drilling plastic sometimes is that the bit just grabs the plastic. I'll try it against a 2x4 on this deal.
they make plastic drilling bits, but hard to find....I just used a round file
Bryan
Quote from: A383Wing on June 23, 2013, 08:04:26 PM
they make plastic drilling bits, but hard to find....I just used a round file
Bryan
I believe I have a round file. Thanks. We'll see how it goes...
Ok, I couldn't take pics of mine mounted in the grille so I went to it and made a second set for the spare headlight door I had lying around so that you can see exactly what and how I did it.
I have to correct myself in that I should have said plates instead of washers. The plates are made from 3/4mm stainless steel. And each plate is held in place with one rivet.
Works like a charm and at the same time has re enforced the whole mounting surface.
Wow, those are nice! :2thumbs: Ever think about selling them on Ebay or something? There's obviously no reproduction headlight doors out there so people are looking for repair items like this. If I hadn't repaired mine already with nylon spacers I'd seriously offer to buy yours.
:cheers:
looks good
Thanks. Do they look pretty much like what you did?
Speaking of stainless steel, I'm planning on using stainless plates to cover the plastic pads on both sides of the mounting surfaces where the grill is mounted to the steel frame. I'll drill offset mounting holes in the plates and put them on the top and bottom of the plastic pads with the speed over them, hopefully spreading the pressure to the entire surface instead of just the small area the speed nuts alone would normally cover.
Actually, maybe there's no need for a plate on top of the pad but I've seen where the speed nuts get embedded into the plastic. What do you guys think?
yea, that's pretty much what I did as well, I remember filing & grinding the nylon so they weren't so long....plus I think I put stainless flat washers on both sides also
Quote from: A383Wing on June 24, 2013, 02:08:01 PM
yea, that's pretty much what I did as well, I remember filing & grinding the nylon so they weren't so long....plus I think I put stainless flat washers on both sides also
I experimented with SS washers too but I'm limited on size because the holes are obviously in the middle of the washers. My favorite hardware store has blank SS strips about 1/16" thick that I could cut to size and then drill the mounting hole where I want it.
I use Urethane Resin to recreate plastic parts all the time. Cures and acts identicle to PVC. Fill the hole with it, then drill the hole you need. Fantastic stuff, and a simple 2 part mixture.
Jon
I have used door pin bushings for similar type of repairs.....
:2thumbs: nice job