I thought it was about time to start sharing my build. I picked up this practically rust free 72 SE in Houston in August of '09. At that time, I couldn't even accurately point to a carburetor. The Charger sat in this single car garage for 6 months while I read everything and anything I could get my hands on. This site was/is a great resource.
I've done some things that will probably get a ::) from people here, but keep in mind, this is my first project car and I'm just trying to build a nice solid driver.
Some of these pics have been posted before. Here it is the first time I brought him home. Enjoy.
I started with the engine because I'm putting off some much needed bodywork on the driprails.
Taking some meat out to the runners to match new intake and exhaust. I've smoothed them out more after these pics were taken.
Enlarged valves to 1.88/1.60. Put in new matched 340 cam springs. Painted heads. Krinkle paint on valve covers.
New engine specs. 318 punched out .030 over, Eddy 600 carb, HVH spacer, Air gap manifold, cast 302 closed chamber heads with 1.88/1.60 valves (port matched), 340 resto cam with new lifters, Sealed power pistons, Hedman Headers 1 5/8 primaries, 2.5 inch flowmaster exhaust.
Link to the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ysHqWhcA3Ss
H-pipe is installed. Kind of missed the exhaust reliefs in the fram but headers sit lower anyway so should be
Did the rims and tires. The black came out a little too shiny but they look pretty good.
Took out the column shifter and replaced it with one on the floor.
Rear Bump
Front Bump
A little trim work. Silver paint marker did the job. The cluster had a small corner broken off by the steering column gap. Instead of replacing the whole thing, I smoothed it out and put a black piece of trim on it. Looks a little more natural now.
Looking good so far! :2thumbs:
I don't see anything you should get rolleyed for, that all looks great to me! :) The trim on the cluster looks a little off, but it probably won't be noticeable once you've got it all together, and if you decide you don't like it, you didn't hurt anything trying ... except maybe some time getting the cluster in/out, that is a *PAIN* :) - I know because I've moved my own cluster in/out about 10 times for various reasons, and I think I'd almost rather take the engine out now than the cluster! :D
Are you dropping the center console altogether, or are you going to try to integrate the new shifter?
Looking good!
Thanks guys, I have some more pics coming. Takes forever to upload all these.
Quote from: defiance on March 25, 2011, 02:00:15 PM
Are you dropping the center console altogether, or are you going to try to integrate the new shifter?
I definitely want a center console. I was thinking about building one myself.
Nice to see your progress Ryan, keep up the good work.
For someone who couldn't tell a carb from a crank shaft you are doing a very nice job. :cheers: :cheers:
lookin good! :popcrn:
:iagree:
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback!
I finished the headlight bezels with the help of CDN72SE. He sent me the missing screws and tabs I needed. Thanks Alan :cheers: I should have taken a before pic of these. They were pretty nasty but cleaned up quite well.
Good job Ryan, glad I could help out in a small way.
I recently had to take out the ignition cylinder to get a key made so I might as well work on the column while it was all apart. Here's what I started with. I had to get rid of the column shift lever since I put the shifter on the floor.
I wanted to make use out of that knob sticking out the side so I did a little fabrication to my tac mount. It covered up alright.
Final product.
Stripped and painted dash. Starting to reassemble.
very nice
Ryan, what did you use in way of paint for your dash frame? Looks good.
Thanks Alan. I used Krylon Rust Tough Enamel in semi flat. Covered really well and seems durable enough.
What a great thread :2thumbs:
Awesome work your doing!
Quote from: chargd72 on April 05, 2011, 04:21:43 PM
Thanks Alan. I used Krylon Rust Tough Enamel in semi flat. Covered really well and seems durable enough.
Thanks. :2thumbs:
Small update. Converting a low profile manifold with a 2 barrel carb to an air gap manifold with a 4bbl sitting on top is pretty easy by just bolting right on. The kick down linkage is another story. I was hoping to be able to find one that would just pop right on but not much luck. So I thought I'd give some fabbing a try. I first had to cut the support bracket so it could fit around the bigger runners on the manifold. I'll let the pictures explain the rest. In conclusion this allowed me to get the linkage directly in line with the throttle arm and gave more back/forth travel. Hope it works well.
Before and after pics.
now using the column shifter standoff for a tach mount is a real genius idea thanks for sharing
Threw the linkage in last night. Lines up nicely.
Haven't made much progress on the Charger lately. All I have to say is sanding is a b*tch. I did finally get some video of it running with the h-pipe and exhaust hooked up. Earlier videos were just with open headers. I'm happy with the sound for a SB.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOrDhX1_mA0
You have come a long way. It looks like your doing great keep up the good work.
Looking good...are you sure you knew nothing about this kind of stuff before you started :scratchchin:
keep up the good work :cheers:
Thanks guys.
Quote from: Skyview69 on September 30, 2011, 07:44:41 PM
Looking good...are you sure you knew nothing about this kind of stuff before you started :scratchchin:
I wish I did. Believe me, there's been plenty of trial and error. :yesnod:
I haven't touched the car since October due to the holidays and a sh*t ton of house projects. But I finally got some garage time last night. I've been toying with the idea of putting on a Cold Air Intake so I popped it on to see if I like it. The only mods I had to do was cut a hole in the front clip to route the tubing so I can always go back if desired. Here are a few pics.
I like what you did with your tach mount. Isnt it going to block your gas/oil pressure gauge though?
The car looks really solid and a good starting point for a project. You chose well.!~
Quote from: RallyeMike on January 12, 2012, 10:01:08 AM
I like what you did with your tach mount. Isnt it going to block your gas/oil pressure gauge though?
The car looks really solid and a good starting point for a project. You chose well.!~
Thanks Mike. It will partially block the gauge when sitting back in the drivers seat. But the tach is far enough forward on the column that if you do a slight lean forward the other gauges can be viewed.
coming along nicely...im jealous. :cheers:
Where did you get your cold air intake from? Did you have to cut any of the tubes at all? Also, do you have a picture of the full engine bay?
Quote from: SG1022 on January 13, 2012, 12:20:47 AM
Where did you get your cold air intake from? Did you have to cut any of the tubes at all? Also, do you have a picture of the full engine bay?
The picture will help me explain each part better.
1) This section of the tube and the element came off my sisters 2010 Challenger R/T after it got wrecked. I aquired this for free because there was a small dent on the bottom of the tubing.
2) This came off a late 90's Grand Cherokee with a 5.9 liter engine. The throttle body faces upward and has the same diameter as the carb opening. Junkyard $15.
3) Air Cleaner spacer on ebay $5.
4) 4" aluminum tubing with 90 degree mandril bend. I cut it at the bend to fit the filter right behind the grill. Ebay $35, paint $5.
5) K&N tubing adapters. Amazon 2 for $10
Total $70. Pretty damn cheap for a true cold air system.
Quote from: SG1022 on January 13, 2012, 12:20:47 AM
do you have a picture of the full engine bay?
This is the farthest back shot I took.
Nice setup! Have you driven the car yet? Can you feel a difference?
Quote from: ChargerST on January 13, 2012, 11:46:13 AM
Nice setup! Have you driven the car yet? Can you feel a difference?
Car is undrivable right now. I'm sure the cooler air will be worth a few ponies but I doubt I'll feel much. I have heard people say you can feel a difference when you take off from a stop light. It makes sense if you think about how much heat buildup can happen in the engine compartment when there's little to no motion. With this, you won't be getting the gulp of hot air when you take off.
Thanks for the info and pictures! I hope you won't mind if I steal your cold air intake idea. :icon_smile_big:
I'm trying to piece it together now, and I just need to find a piece similar to the challenged intake tubing. Could you please get me the length measurements for both of the legs on that(#1 piece)? It would be much appreciated. :2thumbs:
--Taylor
Quote from: SG1022 on January 14, 2012, 12:29:59 PM
Thanks for the info and pictures! I hope you won't mind if I steal your cold air intake idea. :icon_smile_big:
I'm trying to piece it together now, and I just need to find a piece similar to the challenged intake tubing. Could you please get me the length measurements for both of the legs on that(#1 piece)? It would be much appreciated. :2thumbs:
--Taylor
No problem. I'll try to get it for you tonight.
Great job so far! A couple thoughts..........you might have to lengthen your trans kickdown linkage arm to the transmission. Very important. You have to keep the geometry consistent with the original setup if you raise the intake portion. Look for a bigger radiator. When you open up the exhaust ports you get closer to the water jacket through the head. This tends to heat the water more.
Quote from: greymag on January 16, 2012, 10:23:56 AM
Great job so far! A couple thoughts..........you might have to lengthen your trans kickdown linkage arm to the transmission. Very important. You have to keep the geometry consistent with the original setup if you raise the intake portion. Look for a bigger radiator. When you open up the exhaust ports you get closer to the water jacket through the head. This tends to heat the water more.
Thanks for the info. As for the kickdown, instead of lengthening the arm I'm raising the lever that connects to the transmission. This should put the 'geometry' of the setup relatively the same as the original setup. Plus it has to be done when putting in the new floor shifter cable. And the radiator, a bigger aluminum one is a must. The dinky original is just there to hold fluid until I get a new one.
Quote from: SG1022 on January 14, 2012, 12:29:59 PM
Thanks for the info and pictures! I hope you won't mind if I steal your cold air intake idea. :icon_smile_big:
I'm trying to piece it together now, and I just need to find a piece similar to the challenged intake tubing. Could you please get me the length measurements for both of the legs on that(#1 piece)? It would be much appreciated. :2thumbs:
--Taylor
14" and 4". This tube is 3.5" in diamter. I used 4" diameter for the other tube.
Doing a great job, keep the pictures coming :2thumbs:
I would ditch that aftermarket floor shifter and find a Factory one..Then down the road you could add a Factory console. :Twocents:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on January 17, 2012, 02:54:36 PM
I would ditch that aftermarket floor shifter and find a Factory one..Then down the road you could add a Factory console. :Twocents:
Thought about it but I'm liking the buddy seat :2thumbs:
Could you take some pictures of the base of the air filter, when it's off? I have my tubing, I just need a filter element that will fit, or can be adapated from a 3 inch tube.
I really want the mopar performance dry filter, over a KN or other oiled element. Problem is, It looks like the elements they sell are made to screw on to a pre existing fitting? Maybe somebody knows where I can get the tube fitting/adapater?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-7L-6-1L-HEMI-COLD-AIR-INTAKE-REPLACEMENT-FILTER-MOPAR-/270905404298?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f13386b8a#ht_1908wt_1139
Look at the picture of the bottom of the filter. It is threaded, and looks FAR bigger than 3 inches.
(http://i741.photobucket.com/albums/xx51/sgcustomrifles/airfilter.png)
This one appears to more tapered(and closer to the one you were using). It does not show a picture of the bottom though.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-7L-6-1L-HEMI-COLD-AIR-INTAKE-REPLACEMENT-FILTER-MOPAR-/270905404298?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f13386b8a#ht_1908wt_1139
Again, I could use an adapater to go up or down an inch in diameter or so, but the ones posted look HUGe.
if yours has that opening, and you can measure the size for me, I can just buy an adapater. :2thumbs:
Quote from: chargd72 on March 30, 2011, 08:41:28 AM
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback!
I finished the headlight bezels with the help of CDN72SE. He sent me the missing screws and tabs I needed. Thanks Alan :cheers: I should have taken a before pic of these. They were pretty nasty but cleaned up quite well.
you're doing a great job Ryan, Just one thing..... I know no one will see it with your hide-away grille but you will notice the difference if you drive it in the dark with the high beams on. In the picture the high beam bulbs are in 90 degrees off (sideways) The lenses will cast wrong this way and believe me, I know, you want to see "Bambi" as far down the road as you can when you are caught in the dark. Not trying to be critical.... just want to help preserve all your hard work. :Twocents:
Quote from: SG1022 on February 04, 2012, 01:40:14 AM
if yours has that opening, and you can measure the size for me, I can just buy an adapater. :2thumbs:
I'm not sure if that piece comes off or not. I'll have to check for you.
Quote from: 71_Charger_R/T on February 04, 2012, 12:06:48 PM
Quote from: chargd72 on March 30, 2011, 08:41:28 AM
Thanks guys, I appreciate all the feedback!
I finished the headlight bezels with the help of CDN72SE. He sent me the missing screws and tabs I needed. Thanks Alan :cheers: I should have taken a before pic of these. They were pretty nasty but cleaned up quite well.
you're doing a great job Ryan, Just one thing..... I know no one will see it with your hide-away grille but you will notice the difference if you drive it in the dark with the high beams on. In the picture the high beam bulbs are in 90 degrees off (sideways) The lenses will cast wrong this way and believe me, I know, you want to see "Bambi" as far down the road as you can when you are caught in the dark. Not trying to be critical.... just want to help preserve all your hard work. :Twocents:
Good info. I was thinking about correct orientation when I was putting them together but had no clue which was the right way. That will save me some time playing around later. Thanks.
Quote from: chargd72 on February 07, 2012, 10:06:58 AM
Quote from: SG1022 on February 04, 2012, 01:40:14 AM
if yours has that opening, and you can measure the size for me, I can just buy an adapater. :2thumbs:
I'm not sure if that piece comes off or not. I'll have to check for you.
Thanks man, I appreciate it.
Got a few old parts cleaned and painted. Stop and go power is now installed.
whats up with the SE tail lamp assemblies?? did you leave off the trim??
Quote from: HemiTom on March 18, 2012, 08:27:15 PM
whats up with the SE tail lamp assemblies?? did you leave off the trim??
Yep, I'm not a huge fan of the trim. I think it puts too much chrome on the tail.
You are doing a nice job. The car looks to be super solid! The floor pans are awesome! Keep up the good work!
Have a few updates. I was getting an itch to drive the car for the first time. After 2.5 years I decided to do what I needed to do just to get the damn thing on the road. So I wired up the dash, dropped it in and wired the engine bay.
Dash in and testing concealed headlight motor.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00cfySIoZSg
And finally, the Charger's maiden voyage. Felt damn good.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PWh5Ieg7RJc
Sounds good Ryan. :2thumbs:
Awesome! Must be a proud pappa :icon_smile_big:
Cool, sounds good! I know it feels good to take it around the block, I take mine for a quick ride from time to time, one of these days I'll have the odds and ends fixed so I can get the damn safety check... Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming :2thumbs:
No more points distributor and ballast resistor. Put in a Mallory Unilite dizzy with a Mallory HyFire 6a control box.
Nice work! :2thumbs:
cant wait for a stomp on it vid!!!! :cheers:
Such a good thread...
Pepped up the parking lamps this weekend. Used some resin and hardener to fix the plastics. Then sanded smooth and repainted. Now you can hardly notice the damage. That saved me $160.
those turned out great. :2thumbs:
Great work keep the updates coming :2thumbs:
Ditching the 8.25 for a 8.75. The 8.75 came out of a 73 Charger and has 3.23 gears (open, for now). This should be a nice upgrade from the current 2.71 gears. Cleaned up all the rust and oil and got it disassembled this weekend. I'm waiting on some POR 15 to be delivered so I can get it painted and swap it in. More pictures will be coming soon.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention. The 3rd member is a 489 case.
Quote from: chargd72 on September 10, 2012, 10:59:16 AM
Ditching the 8.25 for a 8.75. The 8.75 came out of a 73 Charger and has 3.23 gears (open, for now). This should be a nice upgrade from the current 2.71 gears. Cleaned up all the rust and oil and got it disassembled this weekend. I'm waiting on some POR 15 to be delivered so I can get it painted and swap it in. More pictures will be coming soon.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention. The 3rd member is a 489 case.
Nice, I did the same, but went with 4.30's, the 489 is a nice piece.
Quote from: JPL on September 12, 2012, 06:20:56 AM
Quote from: chargd72 on September 10, 2012, 10:59:16 AM
Ditching the 8.25 for a 8.75. The 8.75 came out of a 73 Charger and has 3.23 gears (open, for now). This should be a nice upgrade from the current 2.71 gears. Cleaned up all the rust and oil and got it disassembled this weekend. I'm waiting on some POR 15 to be delivered so I can get it painted and swap it in. More pictures will be coming soon.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention. The 3rd member is a 489 case.
Nice, I did the same, but went with 4.30's, the 489 is a nice piece.
Damn, your car must launch.
Got the 8.25 out. POR 15 and new u-bolts should arrive tomorrow so hope to get the 8.75 in this weekend.
Quote from: chargd72 on September 12, 2012, 09:00:56 AM
Quote from: JPL on September 12, 2012, 06:20:56 AM
Quote from: chargd72 on September 10, 2012, 10:59:16 AM
Ditching the 8.25 for a 8.75. The 8.75 came out of a 73 Charger and has 3.23 gears (open, for now). This should be a nice upgrade from the current 2.71 gears. Cleaned up all the rust and oil and got it disassembled this weekend. I'm waiting on some POR 15 to be delivered so I can get it painted and swap it in. More pictures will be coming soon.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention. The 3rd member is a 489 case.
Nice, I did the same, but went with 4.30's, the 489 is a nice piece.
Damn, your car must launch.
It does, the sticky Mickey's help, lol!
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn319/jpl20/dfhd.jpg)
Nice! Mean looking '71.
Quote from: chargd72 on September 12, 2012, 09:24:01 AM
Nice! Mean looking '71.
THNAKS!
Loving it since '85!
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn319/jpl20/ch4.jpg)
(http://i307.photobucket.com/albums/nn319/jpl20/eng2.jpg)
Tapped the housing and added a drain plug. Now the 3rd member only has to come off if I want to change gears.
POR 15 came in. Cleaned, etched and painted last night. This stuff is a little glossier than I expected.
Got the 8.75 in. Going from a 2.71 to 3.23 gives it some good jump. Also, my 318 can now lay about 25 feet of rubber without using brake or turning the wheel. Not bad for still having the stock converter in there.
Great thread. Nice job on the car! :cheers:
Question about the floor shifter -- what brand is it? I am doing the same thing. I have the unit installed but have not done the connections yet... wondering if you had any issues or anything like that?
Quote from: plum500 on November 12, 2012, 03:20:42 PM
Great thread. Nice job on the car! :cheers:
Question about the floor shifter -- what brand is it? I am doing the same thing. I have the unit installed but have not done the connections yet... wondering if you had any issues or anything like that?
Thanks Plum500. It's a B&M. Since it's a cable the connection it was pretty easy. Just remove all column levers and attach the provided cable bracket to tranny.
Continuing my procrastination with doing body work. Found some wood in the shed so I built this. Should fit snugly under the dash in front of the floor shifter.
Very impessive! :2thumbs:
Branding the rear end
Patching up some rough spots on the trunk and put in new fuel tank. Trunk is coated with rubberized deadner and will be painted body color.
looking good. :2thumbs:
Looks good!
Quote from: chargd72 on January 13, 2012, 11:19:57 AM
Quote from: SG1022 on January 13, 2012, 12:20:47 AM
Where did you get your cold air intake from? Did you have to cut any of the tubes at all? Also, do you have a picture of the full engine bay?
The picture will help me explain each part better.
1) This section of the tube and the element came off my sisters 2010 Challenger R/T after it got wrecked. I aquired this for free because there was a small dent on the bottom of the tubing.
2) This came off a late 90's Grand Cherokee with a 5.9 liter engine. The throttle body faces upward and has the same diameter as the carb opening. Junkyard $15.
3) Air Cleaner spacer on ebay $5.
4) 4" aluminum tubing with 90 degree mandril bend. I cut it at the bend to fit the filter right behind the grill. Ebay $35, paint $5.
5) K&N tubing adapters. Amazon 2 for $10
Total $70. Pretty damn cheap for a true cold air system.
Does this help with performance.
Thanks, fellas :cheers:
Quote from: Old Tired Rebel on March 02, 2013, 09:43:13 PM
Quote from: chargd72 on January 13, 2012, 11:19:57 AM
Quote from: SG1022 on January 13, 2012, 12:20:47 AM
Where did you get your cold air intake from? Did you have to cut any of the tubes at all? Also, do you have a picture of the full engine bay?
The picture will help me explain each part better.
1) This section of the tube and the element came off my sisters 2010 Challenger R/T after it got wrecked. I aquired this for free because there was a small dent on the bottom of the tubing.
2) This came off a late 90's Grand Cherokee with a 5.9 liter engine. The throttle body faces upward and has the same diameter as the carb opening. Junkyard $15.
3) Air Cleaner spacer on ebay $5.
4) 4" aluminum tubing with 90 degree mandril bend. I cut it at the bend to fit the filter right behind the grill. Ebay $35, paint $5.
5) K&N tubing adapters. Amazon 2 for $10
Total $70. Pretty damn cheap for a true cold air system.
Does this help with performance.
NOt really sure. The car wasn't ever in driving contidion before it was put on so I can't really compare. I would like to think that at the very least it will help with acceleration after a longer stop. Since it's pulling from outside the engine bay, it would be easier to get a gulp of fresh air vs pulling from over top of the engine.
Magnificent work! :2thumbs:
That's a pretty Charger and you are doing fantastic work!
Looks great! I am in the early stages of my '73 Charger "build". (by early stages I mean I have the car and I look at it a lot). I hope mine looks as good as this one!
Spent a lot of time this weekend on fixing my drip rails. Well, one anyway. A lot of time pealing back one layer at a time to match up the donor pieces correctly.
.
Looks good :cheers: :2thumbs:
One hell of a job :o
Looks good.I had to fix my drip rails,but thank God I didn't have to cut my roof.
Quote from: billfury on April 29, 2013, 06:39:19 AM
Looks good.I had to fix my drip rails,but thank God I didn't have to cut my roof.
Thanks guys. I was sweating bullets the entire time cutting the roof. It was about 15 hours of work just to get it lined up correctly. Now I have to worry about getting a good bead across is since I don't have many hours behind a welder. Then I have the drivers side to do.
take your time i've spent hours getting my panels to align and welding it one tack at a time.... but its good practice, i dont usually tell people how to do things, but for the sheet metal on the roof you may want to do assorted tacks rather than a bead or else you could seriously warp it :-\
Yep, I'll be doing spot welds with plenty of cool down time inbetween. Bead was a poor choice of words on my previous post. Good looking out, though.
Dyed the straps and used some trim paint on the plastics. Seatbelts look like new. There's still a little black residue that comes off the straps so I think I need to rinse them again. I'm concerned with them staining my white seats.
Lead work.
:2thumbs: :cheers:
:o How hard was it to do the lead work.I was told it's an art, and not everyone can do it.
Just to give you a heads up. You blocked the hole that was for you Special Edition scripted emblem. I don't know if you were putting them back on of not.
Quote from: billfury on May 08, 2013, 06:27:23 AM
:o How hard was it to do the lead work.I was told it's an art, and not everyone can do it.
It's not the easiest thing to work with but you just have to take your time. This was my first time working with lead and I think it turned out ok.
Quote from: billfury on May 08, 2013, 06:36:40 AM
Just to give you a heads up. You blocked the hole that was for you Special Edition scripted emblem. I don’t know if you were putting them back on of not.
That was actually a pit I filled but I'm not planning on putting the SE script on anyway.
Finished up on the passenger side and moving along to the driver's side.
The work you are undertaking is impressive! I decided to take out the SE inserts in my car. Great Job! I am not sure I could stomach cutting and welding on the roof. Keep up the Great Work!
Quote from: 72Charger-SE on November 19, 2013, 10:27:38 AM
The work you are undertaking is impressive! I decided to take out the SE inserts in my car. Great Job! I am not sure I could stomach cutting and welding on the roof. Keep up the Great Work!
Thanks! I'm following your build as well. Looks like you're getting the hang of things. You're really getting into some tricky areas. I thought about taking out the inserts as well but keep in mind, once you remove them, your interior sail panels no longer fit. So you have to find some donors off a non SE car. Can't wait to see the final product.
Quote from: chargd72 on November 19, 2013, 10:38:22 AM
Quote from: 72Charger-SE on November 19, 2013, 10:27:38 AM
The work you are undertaking is impressive! I decided to take out the SE inserts in my car. Great Job! I am not sure I could stomach cutting and welding on the roof. Keep up the Great Work!
Thanks! I'm following your build as well. Looks like you're getting the hang of things. You're really getting into some tricky areas. I thought about taking out the inserts as well but keep in mind, once you remove them, your interior sail panels no longer fit. So you have to find some donors off a non SE car. Can't wait to see the final product.
Yep... already 'spied' some sail panels from a 72 Charger... :) Just waiting for the right time to get them...
Finally got this guy wired up. Now I have fully functional stock AM radio and aftermarket FM stereo wish USB connection.
I found some weak metal while fitting in the donor driver's side drip rail. It started with a pin hole but I grinded out a good amount until I got to some solid metal. Got it patched up and almost ready to be welded on to car.
Chipping away 15 minutes at a time (the family life). Got the donor driver's side drip rail in place.
Nice work!!
Impressive work going on! Great Job... Keep the Faith and Press Towards the Mark!!
VERY NICE! :coolgleamA:
Sneak peak :D
DAYUM :o
I think that we are maybe the only 2 72 SE owners that went
with non SE tail lights :smilielol: I sold the SE versions and
bought 2 sets of the plain version with the money :2thumbs:
As for metalwork: You got skills :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
I'm with ya, Brock. Not a fan of the SE trim on the tail lights. I'm even torn between liking the standard light over the '71 R/T light.
The standard 72 taillight set is also my favorite of the 3rd gens :coolgleamA:
R/T taillights for me. :cheers:
Got some torque boxes from US Car Tool. Installed the front boxes but waiting for the sub frame connectors before I install the rear. These things are heavy gauge and seem like good quality.
Looks Great! I decided to fab my own on the rear. I was unsure where to put 'front ones' so I didn't add those yet. Thanks for the pics!
Not yours in general speaking, but they look like a nice place for mice to live and a dirt/mud trap.
Unless your racing and flexing that body a lot, I don't see a need for them. :shruggy:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on January 20, 2014, 02:31:32 PM
Not yours in general speaking, but they look like a nice place for mice to live and a dirt/mud trap.
Unless your racing and flexing that body a lot, I don't see a need for them. :shruggy:
I couldn't agree more. They are absolutely not necessary especially with the mild 318 I currently have in it. But once that supercharger in one of the previous pics goes on the 408 stroker that will be built out of the 360 Magnum block sitting behind my car goes in, I will be glad I have them. I'll mostly be on the streets but there are a few tracks in this area that I will plan to take the Charger to a couple times a year.
Ditched the stock 19" rad for this 26" aluminum beast. I also added a 95 Taurus fan that pushes 4000 cfm of air to keep the Charger cool on these hot Texas days.
chargd72 I can tell you from experience that you will be happy with those torque boxes and frame connectors. I installed mine this year too and I noticed a huge difference right away :yesnod: No matter what motor is in your car it will handle much tighter. Have fun!
Scott :cheers:
Great feedback. Thanks!
Added a 1.25" tubular front sway bar to replace the stock.
That looks 'heavy duty'!! Are you running a Hemi in your Charger? I was looking at a heavier sway bar for my car but can't decide on the thickness to get for a 440. I would be surprised if you get much roll at all when cornering.
I will be running a supercharged stroked SB. Right now body roll is substantial with these 14" rims and crappy tires. I expect this sway to help much more with suspension and wheel upgrades down the road.
Ah.. I see.... I am sure that bar will help ALOT! New tires, larger wheels (15") and suspension upgrades should also help improve the handling... :)
Quote from: chargd72 on May 12, 2014, 08:49:08 AM
Ditched the stock 19" rad for this 26" aluminum beast. I also added a 95 Taurus fan that pushes 4000 cfm of air to keep the Charger cool on these hot Texas days.
Champion Cooling Radiator one inch tubes two rows?
Quote from: 4aThrill on May 24, 2014, 06:58:00 PM
Quote from: chargd72 on May 12, 2014, 08:49:08 AM
Ditched the stock 19" rad for this 26" aluminum beast. I also added a 95 Taurus fan that pushes 4000 cfm of air to keep the Charger cool on these hot Texas days.
Champion Cooling Radiator one inch tubes two rows?
Got the three row. So far it's working great.
Swapped the open carrier for an Eaton Trutrac system. This thing is amazing.
Put in an adjustable rear sway. With the new front bar it feels like a completely different car. Reduced body roll by about 70%.
That is SWEET! What did you spend on the Rear Sway bar, if I might ask?
Somewhere around $225. Well worth it.
I just added it to my list of NEEDS... Where did you buy it from?
http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/sway-bars-hellwig/dodge/64-72-mopar-b-body
This is where I purchased the front and rear bars.
Front & Rear Hellwigs purchased just now... Saved $30 off sale with today's coupon. I am considering getting larger torsion bars but haven't decided if I need them. I already have BB torsion bars.
Quote from: chargd72 on June 05, 2014, 08:52:03 AM
Swapped the open carrier for an Eaton Trutrac system. This thing is amazing.
What was the price on that ? What did you do the back settings (green) ?
Get rid of that horrible looking se quarter window plug. :Twocents:
As I might agree. The work involved doesn't outweigh the slight appearance change.
Having that SE plug removed will make your car look 10 times better. :Twocents:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on June 05, 2014, 01:25:15 PM
Get rid of that horrible looking se quarter window plug. :Twocents:
...And sell them to me. :coolgleamA:
Continuing with chassis stiffening I added frame connectors this weekend. I also added some stop and go grip with much wider tires on front and back.
Looks tough.. I like the wider tire. What size are those?
Thanks! 275 in the rear and 255 up front. The 18 inch rims eliminated just about all the leftover body roll that the sway bars didn't clean up.
got a side profile pic? was wondering tire height too! making me really want to get in the garage!! Looking good, cant wait to see the new motor :cheers:
255/30/18 and 275/35/18. The car needs to go down a little bit but I'm waiting for new torsion bars and springs to make it sit correctly. As for the motor, good timing on mentioning that. I just placed an order last week for a fully forged low compression 408 kit from MRLPerformance. Good for 900hp :icon_smile_big:
Rear torque boxes in. Expecting about 20% more rigidness with all the chassis upgrades.
That looks awesome!! I am sure she will handle alot better. :2thumbs:
looks like expensive tires your going to burn off!! :2thumbs:
My RideTech adjustable shocks just came in. They are re-valved by Ron Sutton (race engineer bad ass) for more aggressive street/road course performance.
I also put in some 1.03" torsion bars. Lowered the front end about 1.25".
I got the front and rear shocks in this weekend. Haven't been able to test them out due to a leaky transmission. Here is a pic of the rear.
Looks Great! Get that trans leak fixed... Let's see how she handles!! :2thumbs:
(I wish I had a trans fluid leak... but that would mean I would have the transmission in the car)... :)
Great job here. I'll be sure to reference this thread
:2thumbs:
Got my new brakes on from Dr Diff. I also swapped out my UCAs with adjustable SPCs. Can't wait to feel the difference.
Wow.. those are some 'big brakes' and awesome upgrades on the UCAs. Great Job!
:2thumbs:
Looks good and very nice upgrade.
Apologies if you've already answered elsewhere in the thread, but where did you get those bolt+weld frame connectors for a 72? As far as I knew US CarTool only has the ones that conform to the line of the floorpan. Did you fab them yourself? Also your build is inspirational!
Thanks for the compliments, guys.
Red, the frame connectors came from Year One. I was going to do the US cartools connectors but some guys have had to do a lot of grinding to get them to fit right. I'm not confident my 40 year old floor pan had the exact same contours as it did when it left the factory.
Had to ditch the slip and slide seats and get something that would keep me in place.
Those look great! Did the holes line up or did you have to drill others?
I ordered brackets directly from corbeau that were supposed to fit my car. I ended up having to cut one inch off of a side of each bracket and reweld them together just to get the seats level. Then I had to drill two new holes in each to line up with the floor pan holes. So much for exact fit...
looks great. I hate factory seats too. :cheers:
Boost timing controller. One step closer to forced induction.
Chrgd72 - forgive my ignorance... what is that for?
No apologies for questions :) It's an ignition box like a MSD 6AL but with a lot more features. This one in particular can retard timing proportionate to boost (supercharger for me).
:cheers:
With the power you are making, I suggest ditching the 8 3/4" for a Dana. I had one in my 71 and twisted 3 axles before I broke down and put the Dana in. Just my opinion though.
I was running a standard with 600 ft/lbs when doing this.
Dana solved the issues.
Auto you may be OK, but not sure?
Quote from: Wookie316 on March 07, 2015, 12:35:22 PM
With the power you are making, I suggest ditching the 8 3/4" for a Dana. I had one in my 71 and twisted 3 axles before I broke down and put the Dana in. Just my opinion though.
I was running a standard with 600 ft/lbs when doing this.
Dana solved the issues.
Auto you may be OK, but not sure?
I'm running 275 street tires in back. Might go up to 295 tops. My rear has a 489 case with 3.23 gears. I see your running pretty low with 4.30. Are you on street tires? I would imagine that 600ft/lbs of torque with slicks and 4.30 would twist axles all day.
No.
I had 3.91's and Strange axles when I was doing that in a 742 case. The 31 spline axle is the weak link in the 8 3/4". 742 or the 489 cases them-self are just fine. If my car was lighter, I'd probably have been fine.
Moser makes a 8 3/4" carrier that will take 33 spline axles, but the only way you can jump to the bigger Dana 35 spline axle is to spool it. Not cool for the street.
For the price difference between a Moser center section and a new pair of axles, I just opted for the bigger Dana. I knew I was planning to go to the taller 4.30, so that was already gonna multiply my problems.
Just food for thought is all, if I can save a fellow 3rd gen lover a headache and pass some personal experience on, I am happy to help out.
Car looks great. Keep posting updates!
how did the 391s do on the street? im considering 3.73 mainly street car
When I had the overdrive they were very nice. A guy around the corner from me had 3.73's in his car with a similar build to me and a slightly shorter tire than mine. They ran about the same on the highway.
I'm sporting the 727 and 4.30's and have yet to run it.
Loved the OD in the TKO. But I had a vibration I couldn't get rid of because the tail of the tranny hung too low. Over 60 MPH it would rattle your teeth out. Tried everything I could. Nothing helped determined the tail of the Trans was hanging too low after speaking to many people. Only way to get it higher is to cut and lift Trans tunnel. They advertise it as a bolt in kit but it isn't. Tail sat at least 2"'s lower than the 727 does now.
I'm just no prepared to modify my tunnel that much to make it fit.
So for now it sits in the corner of my shop till I figure out what to do with it?
Heck I'd probably trade it for a Hemi 4 speed if the offer ever came up.
Took 40 lbs off the front and put it over the rear axle. Also made some room up front for this little guy :D
Very jealous! What did that run you if you dont mind me asking??
It was used and came off a mustang. So I got the head unit and a bracket I need to modify for a grand.
Not bad at all!
Fuel sump is in. Now I'm pluming up fuel lines to the A1000 pump.
i doing a fuel sump like that too. gottem on ebay for $35. are you using a pump controller?
Thats awesome looking :popcrn:
Thanks guys! Not using a pump controller. Those are more necessary for high pressure fuel injection systems. I'm running a 10AN line from sump to regulator, two 8AN lines to carb and a 8AN return with a fuel cooler. A nice free flowing system shouldn't be hard on the pump.
I saw on the YouTube show roadkill they ran a car with that pump and had fuel boil issues so they put in a controller. I assume you'll have the cooler install pics soon :popcrn:
Too bad it covers up the view of the blue Mopar "M" painted on the pumpkin.
Quote from: VegasCharger on April 16, 2015, 04:39:41 AM
Too bad it covers up the view of the blue Mopar "M" painted on the pumpkin.
When it's not on stands the entire rear case was tucked behind the gas tank anyway. People will only be able to notice it when they peak under the car.
This is my favorit thread, so much win. :cheers: :popcrn:
Got the alignment done. With the SPC adjustable control arms I managed to get 8* of caster. I pulled the camber down to -.9 respectively. With final adjustments I went with .15* toe out on each side.
I wasn't satisfied with the wheels I was running so I swapped them out again. Running NT01 305s in the rear and Falken 275s up front. I think I'll stick with this setup for a while.
New wheels and tires look awesome! 305's on the back look like they fit nice!
Pat
The block is off to the machine shop. I ended up doing a half fill to help support the bottom end. I did a lot of oiling mods that many do to Mopar small blocks but there are some differences when using a Magnum block vs an LA. I started by drilling all accessible passages to 1/2" and rounding out all corners. I also did the same to the Melling high volume oil pump. Most people drill out the hole that goes from the passenger side lifter galley to the main saddle to 9/32" in LA blocks. The Magnum block already has these drilled out to 5/16" which is great. I also did the galley crossover feed and blocked the flow to main saddle 1 to allow a reverse feed from the driver side galley. The lifter galley on an LA block is 9/16". On a Magnum block it is 5/8". So I tapped the passenger side galley and cut down a 5/8" fine thread bolt to sit flush under the cam plate.
My god man!! Starting out with not knowing exactly where the carb is at to where this car is at now is mind blowing!
I'm working on a '71 myself but I'm not sure if I could do a fraction of the work you did. My car is fairly solid but I did notice a rust area on the passenger wheel well while removing the rear shocks but that's enough about me lol.
I really like how you plan on taking a newer 360 Magnum with a procharger setup to stuff in to your 72. I was thinking about doing something similar and I will be keeping a close eye on what you have done and how you went about doing it! Great work!! :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :popcrn:
Quote from: 71ChargerMike on October 28, 2015, 05:02:54 PM
My god man!! Starting out with not knowing exactly where the carb is at to where this car is at now is mind blowing!
I'm working on a '71 myself but I'm not sure if I could do a fraction of the work you did. My car is fairly solid but I did notice a rust area on the passenger wheel well while removing the rear shocks but that's enough about me lol.
I really like how you plan on taking a newer 360 Magnum with a procharger setup to stuff in to your 72. I was thinking about doing something similar and I will be keeping a close eye on what you have done and how you went about doing it! Great work!! :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :popcrn:
Thanks! But there have been many years between then and now. A lot of the stuff I'm doing now are things I swore I would never be able to do. Time and knowledge is king. Read everything you can find before attempting anything. '71 was my first choice but this '72 popped up and I had to get it. Good luck and start a build thread, if you haven't alreay. :cheers:
Got the block back from the machine shop. Got a fresh bore and align hone so I started assembling the bottom end. I also ordered a custom grind blower cam from Comp Cams.
Did you clean the block?
Very nice!! :2thumbs:
That 408 is going to sound great and look great under the hood of that charger!
Quote from: chargd72 on December 05, 2015, 03:30:14 PM
Quote from: BSB67 on December 05, 2015, 06:58:10 AM
Did you clean the block?
It's been cleaned twice.
Not my question. If you did not do it, and the shop did it, you should get real specific with them on what they did. :Twocents:
Almost ready
Looking good. :2thumbs:
:popcrn: looking great. :2thumbs:
Enter the 408
Looking Nice!
TTI headers came in. Hope they fit as well as they claim.
Darned impressive build. :cheers:
We've got boost
Aluminum drive shaft and custom exhaust.
Looks good :2thumbs:
It's been a while so thought I'd do a quick follow up. The car is a torque monster. The "Soft Launch" video is about 3/4 throttle without using any brake. And those are 305/35r18 NT01s it's breaking loose with ease.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P8pqaOrqhkc
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sedWnQSnLYg
Quote from: chargd72 on November 08, 2016, 11:29:08 AM
Aluminum drive shaft and custom exhaust.
Looks great! what muffler are you running? Thinking of replacing my Supertrapps with Dynomax Ultaflow........
Great choice. I'm using 3" Ultraflows.
Quote from: chargd72 on February 01, 2018, 09:07:16 AM
Great choice. I'm using 3" Ultraflows.
I see that yours are oval, I was thinking of the rounds, I think the only difference is that the rounds are louder, not sure yet.......do you have any sound clips?
Quote from: JPL on February 01, 2018, 09:43:10 AM
Quote from: chargd72 on February 01, 2018, 09:07:16 AM
Great choice. I'm using 3" Ultraflows.
I see that yours are oval, I was thinking of the rounds, I think the only difference is that the rounds are louder, not sure yet.......do you have any sound clips?
I don't have any from the rear of the car. The youtube links I posted above gives the tone. Personally, I wouldn't want any louder than these. They already draw a lot of attention.
Quote from: chargd72 on October 02, 2016, 11:18:32 AM
We've got boost
I was wondering(no experience with boost) if you broke the engine in with or without pressure on a new build?
I did it both ways. I broke it in without boost once, then added boost and floated a valve (incorrect spring pressure). I pulled the engine to get the block sleeved and put it back together and just went for it. I kept it at 5 psi or below for a few drive cycles just making sure there were plenty of high vacuum decelerations to seat the rings. Haven't had any issues yet.
Quote from: chargd72 on August 25, 2015, 09:07:25 AM
I wasn't satisfied with the wheels I was running so I swapped them out again. Running NT01 305s in the rear and Falken 275s up front. I think I'll stick with this setup for a while.
What are the specs on the wheels and tires? Love the look!
A small block needs 3 inch exhaust ? :shruggy:
Quote from: chargd72 on August 25, 2015, 09:07:25 AM
I wasn't satisfied with the wheels I was running so I swapped them out again. Running NT01 305s in the rear and Falken 275s up front. I think I'll stick with this setup for a while.
I went through your thread but maybe missed it. Did you relocate springs in rear to fit 305's? And 275's up front? Whats clearance like? Love it.