Hello All, while reassembling the gauge cluster I noticed this opening in my headlight switch. I know this switch operates on vacuum (or I believe it does) and this switch has me concerned.
Is this normal or should the gap be filled with something?
Thanks for any comments.
Mike R in Reading PA
69 Charger SE
Yes that is not right, I am not positive its a problem for sure, sealing it might help. I will look at mine and see if
that area should be sealed for sure, probably so.
Dan
Thanks Dan, I appreciate it! For a vacuum switch I would think that this would be an issue but I think my lights worked before I took my car apart (now 9 years ago).
Mike
You should seal that mfr, when I repaired mine, I used epoxy to seal it back together. Looks like you'll have to put a clamp on it till it dries.
Yep, I'll do that w/ some plastic epoxy and a nice strong spring clamp.
Thanks for the comments
I'll see what I have but I know I have spares. You pay shipping and it's yours. :thumbs:
Thanks for the offer AllBlue. I glued it up last night and put a hefty spring clamp on it. I guess I'll find out if that "took" later today after work.
Thanks!
Mike R in Reading PA
69 Charger SE
hey, i just posted a little post with how i fixed my vacuum switch here:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,9472.0.html
too bad you glued the cover on :-\ in the above post link i describe how i broke off the tabs and drilled them out and put tiny screws in so that i could service the unit in the next 36 yrs!!!!
the switch does not seal on the cover, the "seal" is made internally by a rubber block with a channel in it that moves with the switch and re-directs vacuum to either open or close the headlight covers. you can test the switch by just putting a vacuum hose on the middle nipple, and sucking on it while plugging the hole depending on the slider position. if it holds vacuum then your ok, it probally won't. see if when you push on the slider arm that it has a "spring" in it and returns up, if it does then your probally ok, and just need to re-pack the switch with white lithium grease in the holes exposed on both sides as you move the slider, the grease acts as a "seal", my switch had a tiny "spring steel" plate inside that was broken, which in turn gives no spring action on the rubber block inside the switch to give a good seal, causing a leak. the rubber block has a channel in it that is the void for the vacuum to pass to the port depending on the position. the one port is off-set so that the headlight covers close in the "parking light only" headlight switch position and allows you to have the parking lights on and the headlight covers closed. The factory grease in my switch was all dried up. after rebuilding it, it works perfect now. :icon_smile_big:
here is a pic i drew in paint to illustrate the internals:
using your pic i'll show you where to break off the tabs to rebuild the switch:
THIS IS FANTASTIC!!! THANKS!
Cant wait to read it carefull!
Thank you for taking the time!