when I stop, she sometimes "rests" at 40 mph. If I move ahead a foot or two, she then goes to zero... I am leaning towards lubing the cable, but wanted to ask if there is a step-by-step to do this :popcrn:
I have searched the threads and seen many tips, but wondering if one removes BOTH ends of the cable, then can simply slide the inner cable out, clean, lube, then re-insert :shruggy:
Thanks in advance for all tips and tricks to this maintenance. :cheers:
I had the same problem & it turned out to be the speedo head itself....
Quote from: Just 6T9 CHGR on September 02, 2012, 07:28:19 PM
I had the same problem & it turned out to be the speedo head itself....
What was the way you proved it to the head?
it's the head that's binding....the cable stops turning when car stops...the needle should drop to "0", if it's not, then the needle pivot is going out or the magnet is touching the ring it passes under
Bryan
So is the remedy to have the cluster rebuilt? :scratchchin:
Yep.
If you were moving and bouncing id say cable, but when your stopped it makes no difference if the cable is binding or not, the speedo should go to zero.
You could try to take the speedo head out yourself and clean it up. If you have a local service to recalibrate it, then its a good time to do that as well. Otherwise you might have to send it off somewhere.
Quote from: XS29L9Bxxxxxx on September 02, 2012, 08:29:53 PM
So is the remedy to have the cluster rebuilt? :scratchchin:
no, you don't have to have the entire cluster rebuilt...the problem lies in just the speedometer head....either have that one fixed, buy a new one, or get a used one, but remember, used may not be any better than the one ya got now
Bryan
Thanks for the great responses, thus far :2thumbs:
What are my options for replacing/rebuilding a factory cluster? I understand the AMP Meter is prime for replacement w/ a solid state regulator. What are some other tips? :popcrn:
I found Redline Gauges. Who / where are the others? Links appreciated. Thanks again! :cheers: