Hello, I was looking for recommendations and tips on setting up rockers with a solid roller cam for reliable street use. I have a RB 440, L2355F, Trick-Flow 240 heads, in a 1968 Charger.
- Isky solid roller, 292° advertised, 258° @ 0.050, .590 lift, 0.393 lobe lift. Hot lash .028. 110° LSA. Grind R-797
I was using bushed Crane ductile iron, but they seem too short and my understanding is that they are not the best choice for a solid roller. I don't want to tear them up any further but at this point I would like to stay with the solid roller. Thanx for any assistance
-Nicholai
Run comp cams steel rockers on the 63 max wedge and jessels on the other 2. All have 750 lb pressures. For stock style rockers the comps cant be beat.
What V/Spring Seat Pressure and V/Spring Rate is recommended for the Cam ?
If it's 550 Lb/Inch Rate and 230'ish Seat Pressure, the Comp 1621-16 Rockers will work fine with some jockey'ing and Lash Caps, but BEST for the TF240's is the Harland Sharps.
No matter which,
set them up so the Trunion does NOT change direction anywhere in the Lift range, that is to say.... the trunion starts towards the Intake side on the V/Tip on , travels to peak lift closest to the Exhaust side on the Tip, without changing trunion roll direction anywhere in the middle.
550# Rate and up V/Springs are not my first choice from a maintenance standpoint over time on real street driven vehicles, be sure and check your V/Spring pressures regularly.
Springs are set @ 215 on the seat, 460 lbs/inch.
Should I stay with the 1.5 ratio?
With aluminum rockers I've heard that they can break from fatigue over time. Also I've heard that the material the Comp 1621-16 are made of has compatibility issues with the rocker shaft in roller cam applications?
Before I started this thread I tried searching for info and those were the main issues I came across. Most of the info I came across was from years and years ago, and I don't know if those issues are actually non-issues or have been resolved since then. That and most threads ended abruptly without resolution, or they didn't stick with the solid roller
Thanks for any info!
Well heck, the early problems with the Comp Rockers were because they were running the steel based rocker directly on the rocker shaft. They have now gone to bushings in those rockers and solved the problem. But I say to heck with it, and just ignore that Trick Flow recommends the Harland Sharp rockers S70015KE for a 1.5 ratio and S70016KE for the 1.6 ratio that were designed for those heads and go ahead and use something else.
However, another's opinion..........http://arengineering.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/trick-flow-RE-v1.1.pdf (http://arengineering.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/trick-flow-RE-v1.1.pdf)
Quote from: heyoldguy on April 19, 2018, 04:43:06 PM
Well heck, the early problems with the Comp Rockers were because they were running the steel based rocker directly on the rocker shaft. They have now gone to bushings in those rockers and solved the problem. But I say to heck with it, and just ignore that Trick Flow recommends the Harland Sharp rockers S70015KE for a 1.5 ratio and S70016KE for the 1.6 ratio that were designed for those heads and go ahead and use something else.
However, another's opinion..........http://arengineering.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/trick-flow-RE-v1.1.pdf (http://arengineering.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/trick-flow-RE-v1.1.pdf)
I've wanted a set of those Comp rockers since the beginning. I've also come around to the Harland Sharps recently. It seems one can't go wrong with either, I just didn't know which of them or any others would be the best for mainly a street car. Thanks for the reply
Looking through the Proven Combos again, several ostensibly street motors are using aluminum rockers. The recommended rockers (S70015KE) are the obvious choice, but will they hold up on the street?
IMO,
The Harland Sharp Rockers are fine pieces and should be the least of your worries.
Quote from: metallicareload99 on April 22, 2018, 11:58:53 PM
Looking through the Proven Combos again, several ostensibly street motors are using aluminum rockers. The recommended rockers (S70015KE) are the obvious choice, but will they hold up on the street?
Does a duck have webbed feet?
Quote from: Challenger340 on April 18, 2018, 10:27:54 PM
No matter which,
set them up so the Trunion does NOT change direction anywhere in the Lift range, that is to say.... the trunion starts towards the Intake side on the V/Tip on , travels to peak lift closest to the Exhaust side on the Tip, without changing trunion roll direction anywhere in the middle.
-Edited
In my initial setup with the Harland Sharps, 1.5 ratio, it seems the roller is slightly on the intake side of the valve tip @ zero lift. When the valve starts to lift, the roller seems to make a move towards the intake side with peak lift near the middle. Using a dry erase marker on one valve and a permanent marker on the other, and checking valve springs on both a band about 0.090" wide appears. It's hard to see if the roller changes direction.
What should I mark the valve tip and roller with, will "checking" valve springs be enough tension to make a good pattern visible?
My understanding of setting up valve train is limited, but what I've read suggests that the line through the center of the rocker shaft and the centre of the roller should be perpendicular with the long axis of the valve near mid valve lift (0.295"). It seems that I don't reach 90° / perpendicular till about 0.390" or so of valve lift.
Obviously I'm not an expert on this and I trust Harland Sharp and Trick-Flow to know what they are doing, but it seems the rockers would benefit from being raised somewhat? I have rocker shaft shims from Mancini racing in a few different thicknesses
Also according to the cam card I should be @ 110° intake lobe centre, but when I degree'd it I came up with a 107 degree intake center line... So would 3° advanced be better than 1 degree retarded, since with the timing set I got has +/-4 degree adjustments?
Thanx for any advice
Quote from: metallicareload99 on August 23, 2018, 11:17:58 PM
My understanding of setting up valve train is limited, but what I've read suggests that the line through the center of the rocker shaft and the centre of the roller should be perpendicular with the long axis of the valve near mid valve lift (0.295"). It seems that I don't reach 90° / perpendicular till about 0.390" or so of valve lift.
Obviously I'm not an expert on this and I trust Harland Sharp and Trick-Flow to know what they are doing, but it seems the rockers would benefit from being raised somewhat? I have rocker shaft shims from Mancini racing in a few different thicknesses
Also according to the cam card I should be @ 110° intake lobe centre, but when I degree'd it I came up with a 107 degree intake center line... So would 3° advanced be better than 1 degree retarded, since with the timing set I got has +/-4 degree adjustments?
Thanx for any advice
Talk to Mike @ http://www.b3racingengines.com/ he make the correct shims
Picture of my shims custom made by B3 to correct my rocker geometry .
Those seem the way to go as far as shims, I like the eccentricity. The Mancini ones I got are just flat, and people worry they will split the rocker pedestals.
Do they move the shaft towards or away from the valves also? How about letting enough oil up to the shafts, do they leak/ seal well?
Good read in the tech section in that link cdr, thanks.
Is there a wrong way and right way to install Harland Sharp rocker shafts? I know stock shafts need the oil holes pointed @ the exhaust and the offset is noticeble. But Harland Sharp has oil holes drilled all the way through and the axis seems parallel to the hold down holes? Thanks for any advice!