I've been meaning to post this for quite some time so here it is. I have, like many other old mopar owners had some serious charging problems with my charger. Several malfunctioning regulators, blown alternators and finally two fried coils due to 19 volts suddenly on the system. The pics show a cheap way to fix the problem. I searched through all the used alternators on the shelf at the local junkyard and found this one that fit right in with the correct pulley offset and only needing a modified slide-bracket. It is internally regulated and only needs 2 wires, one from the ignition and the thick one to the battery. It chargers a constant 14,5 volts at any rpm and at idle with the headlights, heating fan AND electric cooling fan on it's around 13 volts, beautiful. It' worked all summer. Unfortunately I don't know exactly what car it comes from exept that it is an early 90s mitsubishi alternator from a mazda, so it should be possible to find out.
I did the same thing. I used an 02 alt off a ram van. externally regulated just like a stocker and fits into stock brackets. had to cut about 1/2" off one of the stock spacers. here's a pic. ran a 4g wire to starter relay to handle the 130 amps.
Quote from: dkn1997 on October 21, 2006, 07:34:34 PM
I did the same thing. I used an 02 alt off a ram van. externally regulated just like a stocker and fits into stock brackets. had to cut about 1/2" off one of the stock spacers. here's a pic. ran a 4g wire to starter relay to handle the 130 amps.
This guy have it all http://www.magnumhp.com/alttech.php
not necessary for any type of custom brackets if installing a mopar denso onto a 440 at least, suspect it's the same for s/b too. everything's the same except for:
trim one spacer
add 4g charge wire from alt to starter relay
put 70's GM regular groove pulley on (replaces serpentine pulley that comes on alt)
add a nut to the adjuster bolt.
I cannot speak for any other combos, but if you use a 130amp alt off an 02 RAM van (V8) on a 440, it's very close to a bolt in. I like the denso because it's externally regulated, so wiring changes are very minimal if your car had dual field already. Mine didn't and it was stil easy. total cost under 150 bucks. ebay has the denso's all the time, dirt cheap.
The 98 Alt from a Dodge Van is almost exactly the one you have Dkn1997 Except....
It comes with a 2 belt V pulley already. Which is just a hair to big to get full voltage at idle.
But its dam close.
And it does not have that pigtail connector for the regulator. It just uses 2 bolts.
Thats what I put in my car, thanks to you actually. You gave me the idea and I started
looking for the closer match.
One of the best upgrades to date.
Oh and
The alternator can be found at Pepboys and is 117 or 127 amps I forget.
The Voltage regulator can be found in stock at Autozone.
The Voltage regulator pigtail You can also get from Autozone but its special order.
I believe the regulator is the same from 1971 to 1989 in most or all Dodge cars. Nacho?
Because this confused the wizards at Autozone (sarcasm off) I asked for a regulator from a 1973
dodge charger.
And dont forget to beef up the wiring if you go this route or you could have a fire.
Some pictures..........
Few more
Oh.... I might be mistaken ... I think its an 1989 Alt.
I have received a few PM's about this.
I called and looked into it.
Its for a 1989 Dodge cargo van with a 318 engine.
I was also told it it would have come from pretty much anything that year with a 318 in it.
Hope this helps.
Yes it does, thank you very much. Now, did you have to 'mod the 'alt in any way like Dave did with his '02 'alt? Such as trimming spacers, fabbing connectors, pulleys, etc.
The only thing you have to do is cut the one spacer that connects to the head I believe.
It been a long time and I forget. Really it was pretty easy.
This is one of the bonuses with this alternator.
And really the credit goes to the poster who started this thread and others.
I went looking for a closer match and thats what I found.
It comes with a dual V-belt pully and it has bolts not a plug for the field wires.
So you dont have to go looking for that stuff.
You will need a newer style regulator (ask for a 73 charger one) and pigtail for it.
And you will need to add another wire or 2 to the battery for the alternator.
This will render the Amp gauge useless (well it will move but it wont be accurate).
Personally I bypassed that a long time ago anyway, and recommend that everybody do it before you have a fire.
There are ways around it and to make it work. Search some of Nachos threads.
Ive been threating to make an over/under charge led for it, or turning my amp gauge into a volt gauge,
but havent dont it yet.
Good luck and if you have more questions please ask.
What year cars is this good for. I have a 71, so can I do the same thing with mine. The one I have currently seems to work, but they spray painted it silver (to try and fool me into thinking it was new, I guess. LOL) and doesnt look that good..
You mean putting on a newer 'alt? It should be good for all, as the bracketry hasn't seemed to change much over the years. DKN just had to shave a spacer and an output stud. Sounds to me like Gunz's '89 'alt needed the least amount of work. Also, 90 amps is more than these cars will ever need. Let's do this!
Watch me fry my wiring harness, lol...
I really just wanted to know which new alt from what car i should get that will fit in my 71 Charger. they cant all fit, right? lol
Oh, go for a 90 amp 'alt for an '89 Dodge van...
Pretty much all the newer alts are going to need the same thing done.
New regulator and adding a power wire or 2.
The one I used just doesnt need a different pulley and pigtail.
The one wire alternators from powermasters or whatever wont need the regulator.
They will still need the added power wire.
But I wouldnt recommend one. The internally regulated style isnt as good as externally regulated.
Plus if you break down in the middle of Know where you cant get a replacement fast.
THANKS GUYS. I WILL LOOK INTO THAT.
I am going to call the local O'Reilly's and check on an alt for the 02 van. I have March Billet brackets and Serpentine pulleys so that would work out pretty good for me. I have a new Painless wiring harness in the car so the wiring shouldn't be a problem. I have dual electric cooling fans, headlights and a Amp and stereo going in so I can probably use the 130 amp alt.
Just an update on this new 'alt 'mod that I've decided to do. I decided to go with an '89 'alt that's rated at 90 amps.
1. The output stud's plastic shield thing is preventing me from mounting the 'alt, so I'm either going to have to shave it down really low or remove it completely. Honestly, I don't like how close the stud sits to the block. I'm going to place a rubber cap on it after the power wires are hooked up, hopefully that will keep the 'alt from having any contact issues.
2. My stock wires in the harness (the brown and black ones) that would normally go to the 'output stud may have to be lengthened, because the output stud on the '89 'alt is on the other side. I'll also have to lengthen the two field wires as well, because the field terminals are now on the bottom end of the 'alt.
3. Maybe I've got the wrong adjusting bracket, but my '89 'alt only lines up with the bracket at the very end of the sliding zone. I'll definitely have to get a smaller belt or else I won't be able to tighten this thing up.
Even with these issues I'm sure I'll be able to get this 'alt to work. If not, I've got a near new '70 'alt waiting to be used again...
Did you pick the Alt that Im using?
Yes I did. I figured the 130 amp would probably destroy what's left of the wiring, so I decided that the 90 amp is more than this car will ever need anyway. Besides, there are trucks with heavier electrical loads out there running this 'alt!. Asides from shimming down factory spacers, making a couple of splices and rigging that twin 10g wire the installation was a snap. By the way, how did you connect the violet and brown wire that hooks up to the output stud on the 'alt? I had to splice my wires into a longer one to reach under and then behind the 'alt.
Disappointingly however, electrical performance is still lacking. True, the lights are blindingly bright, the battery has never been charged better and I can almost FEEL a stronger ignition, but at idle I'm still getting a weak charge (12v), flickering headlights and dashlights along with everything else. I'm figuring that checking into the rest of the electrical system and correcting any weaknesses will probably fix the problem for good; I'm thinking bulkhead connectors right now.
Overall I'm satisfied with the installation, and I thank 2Gunz and DKN1997 for the inspiration and direction that was needed to make this work. Those of you who aren't seeking concourse correct trophy queens/spider vacation homes should follow this route also...
admitedly, I have not gone over this thread with a fine tooth comb, but myk, I have to ask if you ran an extra heavy (6 or 4 gauge) wire from the pos stud on your new alt directly to the battery or the pos on the starter relay? If not, you run a serious risk of burning that baby down to the ground.
I used crimp on eyelets to connect the field wires.
I also dont have problems at idle....
Slightly less than above 1000 RPM but not that low.
I would check and make sure your "sense" wire is hooked correctly.
As far as the wiring according to these charts 10 Gauge wire is good for 100 amps at 10 feet.
http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/wire%20gauge%20table.htm
And
http://www.tessco.com/yts/industry/products/itm/automotive/get_wired.html
I personally find that to be overly optimistic especially in a hot environment.
So I ran two 10 gauge wires.
The 10 gauge wire is easier to manage and can be found cheap anywhere.
I
Quote from: dkn1997 on May 18, 2008, 08:20:06 AM
admitedly, I have not gone over this thread with a fine tooth comb, but myk, I have to ask if you ran an extra heavy (6 or 4 gauge) wire from the pos stud on your new alt directly to the battery or the pos on the starter relay? If not, you run a serious risk of burning that baby down to the ground.
I REALLY wanted to run a 4g wire from the 'alt to the relay but I wasn't sure how to fit such a big cable and matching ring connector onto the tiny output stud or even route such a huge wire, so I went with 2Gunz' route and placed two 10g wires together instead. Even the twin 10g wires are a bit to handle and don't really want to follow my routing attempts, but it's all good. I'd definitely like to hear what you used and how you put a big 4g cable onto the output stud. By the way the wires are fused with a 40 amp blade type fuse; is that a good amp rating for a fuse? Also, did you ever get around to fusing your 4g cable?
Quote from: 2Gunz on May 18, 2008, 04:10:37 PM
I used crimp on eyelets to connect the field wires.
I also dont have problems at idle....
Slightly less than above 1000 RPM but not that low.
I would check and make sure your "sense" wire is hooked correctly.
Hmm. My idle's at about 6 to 700 RPM. Maybe it's too low? I was always taught to leave the idle as low as possible so as to lessen the shock on the 'trans when I go into gear.
I used a variety of crimp on eyelets and butt connectors, but I'd really like to go back in and solder everything.
By the way, which one of the 'alt wires is the "sense" wire? Is it the blue one?
Ya its the blue one.
Also make sure that the regulator is grounded well.
My car idles at around 800, I dont know what its supposed to be, but thats what it likes.
Btw you live in California? That picture looks like it.
If so we should go cruise sometime im in Glendale.
Yeah I'm gonna' have to recheck all of the wiring in the car. I'm the total 'newb when it comes to electricals so there's probably something that needs to be made better. I remember I was crimping on a connector and I pressed it HARD. As soon as I let go of the wire it fell out of the connector, lol. As for idle speed, I think the stock setting was 650 RPM but it's so damn low that the car feels like it's going to stall.
I have to clarify though, that the voltage drops only happens when the car is in gear. If the car is in park or neutral the battery is getting 14.5v easy, and that's with the lights on.
You mentioned earlier that the pulley was too big to get a full charge. Have you ever considered getting a smaller pulley? I'll definitely consider that if that's an option too.
Yup, I live in SD. If we ever cruise though we go in your car, as your '69 looks really good...
I am looking at this alternator changeout. Why is the double vbelt important? Is it because the belt alignment changes with the 1998 or 02 alternators? The factory? alternator has a single belt pulley on it.
Thanks for any help :shruggy:
If you buy an '89 'alt it comes with a v-belt pulley that should line up directly with your other v-belt pulleys, such as crank, water pump, etc. If you have air, the double groove pulley should mate up with that as well. Many parts-store 'alts for original applications automatically come with a double groove pulley, just to cover people that have air conditioning and the ones that don't. If you don't have air, you just ignore the 2nd groove.
Also, if you buy an '02 'alt you'll get a unit with a serpentine belt pulley-obviously this won't work on a car that still uses v-belts. If you just put a v-belt onto a serpentine pulley, the pulley will eat up the v-belt sooner than later.
I'd recommend getting the '89 'alt because you don't have to find a compatible pulley and install it. Also, you won't have to buy a special connector to connect the field wires as you would have to with the '02; the '89 uses standard bolt-on connectors.
Finally, make sure you do what 2Gunz and DKN did, which was install heavy gauge wire, AT LEAST 10G, from the ouput stud to the starter relay...
10-4
Thanks myk
The pulley size for me isnt an issue really.
To be "perfect" it could be slightly smaller.
But given how easy it was to change over and the fact that its
SOOO much better than stock.... Im not going to complain.
Your charge issue sounds like its directly related to Idle RPM.
And the fact that dips when you put it in drive helps confirm that.
When you put it in gear it slows the engine speed a bit.
If you must have the idle that low, install a smaller pulley.
I however would just turn up the idle 50-100 Rpm and be done with it.
Oh and....
Not one 10 Gauge wire. I would use two.
My 4g wire fit pretty easy. when I got my alternator off ebay, it came with the factory ring terminal still on it. I carefully peeled it back and put my 4g and the original charging wires onto it. I don't remember it being all that hard. I then wrapped it in the nonstick black vinyl tape and it's hard to tell it's there.
on the serp pulley, you could use it for your V belt but that has "crackhead" written all over it. either way you go, it's all good. any of these new denso type alts, regardless of amp rating will charge so much better at idle than the stock one. best mod I ever did to my car...besides stuffing the 318 in my shed and a 440 between the fenders, of course.
Guys I am working on this project for my car. Decided to go with 2 Gunz 89 Van 90 Amp alternator but have had no luck yet at local junk yards.
I assumed this is a junk yard buy, but I am wondering from some of the photos of this thread if you can buy a new alternator for an 89 Dodge Cargo Van from a parts store.
Please clarify.
Also I saw an article in the August Mopar Muscle Mag called "Voltage Revamp" where they deal with the problems we are having. They buy a kit from an outfit called Mopars by Crane in Florida that has a relay and wiring harness in it. I am not much with the electrical systems so I really do not understand the benefits of what they are installing in addition to the wiring improvements you guys mention above. Let me know if anyone reads it and can give me a clue as to whether it is a worthy kit to buy.
Thanks :icon_smile_question:
Quote from: BronzeOnSteelies on June 21, 2008, 12:39:12 PM
Guys I am working on this project for my car. Decided to go with 2 Gunz 89 Van 90 Amp alternator but have had no luck yet at local junk yards.
I assumed this is a junk yard buy, but I am wondering from some of the photos of this thread if you can buy a new alternator for an 89 Dodge Cargo Van from a parts store.
Yea you should be able to buy it from your local parts store. They are a bit pricey tho. I went with a 65 amp off of an '85 W150 Ram and it does well enough for what I need it for.
The Alt is from pep boys.
The Voltage Reg and Pigtail are from Autozone.
However you should be able to get this stuff from anywhere.
The guy at Auto zone gave me a blank look when I told him "show me everything dodge that is about this size".
So I moved on.
I attempted to give you some direct links to a few common parts stores to make this easy.
However The Autozone, Pepboys and Napa websites suck to much for words.
As far as electrical upgrades the 3 biggest things, in my head anyway, in order are.........
1) Bypass the amp gauge (hides from nacho)
This is only number one because its bound to leave you stranded.
2) Alternator Upgrade
3) Headlight relay
All of which have been covered allot in this forum.
Assuming that the wiring harnesses in your car are not junk I dont see what the big deal
about a "kit" would be. Id love to see a link on it.
All the stuff needed is off the self parts.
If you have more questions go ahead and ask.
Quote from: 2Gunz on June 22, 2008, 07:17:19 AM
1) Bypass the amp gauge (hides from nacho)
:scope:
I SAW IT
:argue:
:lol:
ONCE AGAIN... no need for that if you make the proper upgrades
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html
2Gunz, I just saw a link to the Kit from Mopar by Crane.
It is in a thread on this site dated June 17th by Needa68.
Needa68 has ordered one.
Guys I got a couple questions about upgrading the wiring. I have read the threads and the article by the gentlemen from allpar and still need to know......
My new wiring harness has a black wire and a blue wire running from the output terminal to the bulkhead connector. After you run a large gauge wire (and fusible link or fuse) to the top nut on the starter relay what do you do with these wires. Cut the black one at the alternator end? Leave them at the bulkhead connector? What did you guys do? i am guessing the blue "sense" wire stays in place and the larger gauge wire is replacing the black one?
There is a light blue fusible link wire running from the top nut on the starter relay to the bulkhead connector, I assume you must leave that in place and just put the new fusible link (for new larger gauge wire) on the same stud.
Let me know, by the way the kit by Mopars by Crane got slammed pretty good by the members that bought it.
Mark :shruggy:
The original wiring diagram shows the black wire as going to the output of the alternator.
The blue wire to the Ignition side of the Voltage regulator.
From the Voltage regulator a dark green wire runs to the alternator.
Dont remove anything.
You should be adding a heavy gauge wire or 2 to the battery or starter relay.
Or if you want the amp gauge to work follow nachos design.
Heres the diagram........
http://www.1969chargerregistry.com/pictures/engcompt.jpg
Hope this helps.
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on June 22, 2008, 10:32:43 AM
Quote from: 2Gunz on June 22, 2008, 07:17:19 AM
1) Bypass the amp gauge (hides from nacho)
:scope:
I SAW IT
:argue:
:lol:
ONCE AGAIN... no need for that if you make the proper upgrades
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html
:iagree: With a good alternator, bypassing the ammeter is a solution in search of a problem.
While I tend to agree with the thought process of wishing to keep it original.
And I also agree that doing nachos upgrade is great stuff.
But the fact that remains is this.
If my battery is dead and I jump start it, my 120+ amp alternator is going to
toast that gauge.
And for it it be accurate everything in the car needs to run through it.
And my 2000 watt sub amp would have a field day with it.
:iagree:
you are right so that's why I state on thread with a battery dead... NO RECHARGE ON CAR, at least not with that kind of alt ( 120 amps )! or unless you jump the alt directly to batt.
with 70-80 amps alt ( maybe little bit more ), ammeter is able to drive the recharging process at iddle or little bit more ( second step of iddle cam, choke one ), without problems.
I wanted to bring this thread back up because suddenly I'm having charging issues with this set up that I've been running for over a year now. I'm only getting about 12 volts back from the charging system and....I'm not sure where to start looking for the problem. I've checked all of my connections and splices and they seem to be good and tight. One minute I was getting 14 volts, the next I was getting 11 to 12. Any ideas?
Edit: Ok this is wierd, I disconnected the 70's style voltage regulator, the one with the blue and green wires, and my voltage reading stayed the same? If you unhook the regulator aren't you supposed to lose charging voltage completely?
Quote from: myk on December 02, 2009, 04:48:39 PM
Edit: Ok this is wierd, I disconnected the 70's style voltage regulator, the one with the blue and green wires, and my voltage reading stayed the same? If you unhook the regulator aren't you supposed to lose charging voltage completely?
not really, depending of the batt conditions and how many time you are running without charge, but initally you still can read 12 volts or very close below it.
That's why I like ammeters, is an instant reading knowing WHERE THE POWER is coming from
Well I figured the least I could do is have the alternator and regulator tested. The 90 amp alternator, which is supposed to be for an '89 Dodge van, tested fine. The regulator failed. I got the new regulator on but I still have the same problem. I'm getting 11 to 12 volts of power from the charging system. It's so simple that I don't really know where to check next. There're 3 wires and that's it: the output wire from the alternator, and the blue and green wires that go to the regulator.
Man I just don't get it. There's good continuity between the green and blue wires from the alternator all the way up to the regulator.
Quesiton-there're two terminals on the alternator, are the green and blue wires from the voltage regulator supposed to go on to certain terminals or does it matter?
ground the green wire to check if you get full power from alt. If you do, reg is still bad
doesn't matter either wire on any terminal. My preference is the positive ( blue ) wire closer to the alt stud, to save from accidentally short ( negative with positive ) somehow, being this field once wired/plugged cross the wire with black one... but once again, is just my preference
So do you mean to just put the green wire to bare metal to "ground it?"
I don't know if this means anything, and I don't know why I did this, but I used to have the blue and green wire on the same terminal on the alternator-does that matter at all? The car did run for over a year like that with good voltage.
Thanks for the response, Nacho...
if you have a dual isolated alternator ( being 89 should it be ) you must have green wire on one brush, and the blue wire at the other brush. BOTH ISOLATED
Green is regulated ground from regulator what takes from chassis its source. Blue is constant positive from ign switch ( what also splices into ballast and regulator ) fro obvious reasons this sytem requieres both brushes isolated from alt chassis.
you must have 12 volts between green and blue wire with key in RUN arriving to brushes/field at alt. That feeds the rotor coil what once is spining creates the magnetic field captioned by the outer coil or stator. This gets to diodes bank what rectifies the alternating power into Direct current. Negative to chassis and positive to alt stud.
so if you don't feed the rotor with the + and - voltage, you'll never get magnetic fields inside alt, so neither output
grounding the green wire, will emulate you don't have enough juice on system so regulator would be sending max ground signal, getting max output from alt, once rotor gets max 12 volts power.
Ok, I get it. But...I drove the car with both the blue and green wire on the same terminal on the alternator for over a year. How did that work? It shouldn't have worked, right?
it should SHORT OUT and BURNT EVERYTHING in fact... unless regulator was damaged or isolated from firewall and not sending negative.
what did happen ? dunno
one question... what regulator do you have ?
It's a 70's and newer electronic regulator, silver with two prongs that connect to the blue and green wire. I cannot figure out how that system worked with both positive and negative hooked up together...
maybe short blown the regulator faster than burnt everything around ?
here is the basic diagram I made long time ago
Yup, and that's the diagram I used a year ago when I set this system up. Thanks for that by the way. So, I guess I'll have the voltage regulator tested to see if this one is bad too.
Another question though: if I had the positive and negative hooked up together and it killed the voltage regulator, how was the system able to give me 13 to 14 volts of power?
good question... I can't say really how did work
Jeeeeeeeeeeeeez I fixed it. I went back to autozone, tested the regulator that I just bought yesterday and it turns out that one was bad too. Now, whether it was bad because it came that way, or it got ruined because I hooked up the green and blue wires on the same terminal on the 'alt I'll never know. All I know is I can't figure out why the car ran fine for over a year with both green and blue wires on the same terminal. I hope this isn't a fluke and it really is fixed. When the car cools down I'm going to re-do my wiring job; too many splices and butt connectors.
14.2 volts in idle, yay!
great!!!!
Man, I really need to learn how to solder. Do you guys prefer to solder or crimp and tape? Is one method better than the other?
I prefer to use either non insulated terminals or I simply remove the insulating colored sleeve of the ones from the autoparts store. The reason I like them non insulated is that you get a really good crimp on them. I then follow up with heat shrink tubing. besides the fact that I think it's better than the insulated crap you buy from the parts store, I think it looks very nice.
here is a pic of an aux fuse box I put in to run my hella headlights, dual fans, and electric fuel pump. you have to look close, but you can see it.
I agree, the non isolated stuff with some heat shrink tubing looks best! I have somoe of the other crap and hate it, the few i did "correctly" look nice.
I crimp AND sold and using heat shrink tubes.. couple of them to give some thickness
there are some molds around to fill with some liquid rubber or silicone, to give a better stock look.
Yeah, I had a feeling that was the way to go: crimp, solder, then heatshrink, using un-insulated connectors of course. Madelectrical's website even says as much. Although I must say that none of the parts stores around here sell un-insulated connectors. I hate to have to buy that stuff online.
So I just tied everything up and the car's running great. Question though: isn't voltage supposed to drop as RPM drops? My voltage either stays the same or INCREASES as my RPM drops. When my RPM's go up, my voltage will either stay the same or drop a little. Either way, at idle with lights and brakes on I'm still getting 14.3 or more volts. How high is too high though? I turned on my high beams and then suddenly I started seeing 15 volts at the voltmeter...
if power is being satisfied, no matter the RPMs, will stay the same.
variation happens when some unbalancing is around.
power is increased or decreased by car or battery demands. Controled by regulator
headlighst SPECIALLY if high consumption ones, will demand more power coming from alt, so alternator will compesante that ordered by regulator.
My voltage either stays the same or INCREASES as my RPM drops
is increased at low RPMs being iddling is harder to keep feeding more stablish the consumption demand. Thats why I say, IDDLE FEEDING/CHARGING CAPACITY is what helps on keep a healthy ( sp? ) charging system
Makes sense. Now I guess I'll just have to keep an eye on all of it. So 15 volts isn't too high, is it? It doesn't go there unless I put on all lights, brakes and high beams, but I just want to make sure...
BATTERY specs is what will say how much safe is 15 volts, but tipically 13.5 to 14 it should be the normal voltage operation with an alt feeding. Quite often even some 14.5 peak
I'm not THE expert, just a little but experience about that.
peaks will blown more frequently bulbs around
Well, spent the day driving the Charger and it was getting a constant 14.2v or higher. When the lights came on the volts would occasionally hit 15. I gotta ask again, isn't 15v a little much?
How the hell did I go from not charging enough to too much, lol...
Ive been running near or at 15 for the past 2 years ive had my charger...and im sure before i bought it, it was doing the same. No issues at all. Check your voltage at a light source or somewhere other than the battery, between the old wiring, connectors, splices..ect it will prob be less.
maybe regulator is a race kind ? yes 15V is a little bit much
Nope, it's an off-the-shelf regulator from Autozone, part #VR133. It's the stock VR replacement for all Mopars from '70 up to like, '95 or something. If it wasn't for the twin 10 gauge wire I'm running from the output on the 'alt to the starter relay I'm sure my wiring would've fried by now...
volts won't fry the system, don't worry. Amperes consumption is what will fry. You can get even 220 volts by just one filament of any wire
That's true. Well, it usually only goes up to 15 when the lights, brake and high beams are getting used so it doesn't happen all of the time.
This is the best my charging system has ever worked in the 15 years I've owned the car, and I owe it all to you guys-thanks again...
Quote from: dkn1997 on December 03, 2009, 09:11:32 PM
here is a pic of an aux fuse box I put in to run my hella headlights, dual fans, and electric fuel pump. you have to look close, but you can see it.
Your setup really interests me. So, I'm guessing you run a fat power wire from the 'alt and then just feed the lights, fans, pump, etc from the fuse box? I've just completed the headlight relay upgrade, but my 'alt output stud is crowded-there are 4 terminals crammed on to that one stud, lol. How else were you powering your accessories before this fuse box? What made you decide to install the fuse box?
Quote from: myk on December 07, 2009, 05:02:37 AM
Quote from: dkn1997 on December 03, 2009, 09:11:32 PM
here is a pic of an aux fuse box I put in to run my hella headlights, dual fans, and electric fuel pump. you have to look close, but you can see it.
Your setup really interests me. So, I'm guessing you run a fat power wire from the 'alt and then just feed the lights, fans, pump, etc from the fuse box? I've just completed the headlight relay upgrade, but my 'alt output stud is crowded-there are 4 terminals crammed on to that one stud, lol. How else were you powering your accessories before this fuse box? What made you decide to install the fuse box?
I chose to do a fuse box because i wanted things simple. It also allowed me to power everything I added to the car using none of the factory wiring. I chose this box because it has a main power lug and main ground lug. Once you run power and ground to it, wiring up the individual loads becomes very simple. I used an 8g wire from the pos stud on the starter relay on the firewall. This stud already had an 4g wire running from it right to the pos stud on the alternator.
Here is the thread where went over the whole install:
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,58543.0.html
Oh wow, thanks. Simple to do but the benefits are immeasureable. I can't see installing the relays without the weatherproofing so that's a great idea too. I'll probably have to go your route because the electrical items will just keep getting added on. What made you decide to run an electric fuel pump, by the way? Does it have to be regulated? Also, are you still running the mechanical fan along with the electrical fans? Which H4 light kit did you use? Has it started snowing in New York yet? Lol...
Quote from: myk on December 07, 2009, 11:35:54 AM
I'll probably have to go your route because the electrical items will just keep getting added on.
It gets better. They make this fuse box in larger sizes so If I run out of room, I can move up to the bigger one and just drill an extra hole.
Quote from: myk on December 07, 2009, 11:35:54 AM
What made you decide to run an electric fuel pump, by the way? Does it have to be regulated?
I set up the fuel system for a holley projection I was running. When I put the carb back on, I had sold off my mechanical pump. seemed easier to just put a carb electric pump on. it's a mallory comp 110. I don't think it has to be regulated, but I had the reg from when I was running a holley blue pump so I kept it.
Quote from: myk on December 07, 2009, 11:35:54 AM
Also, are you still running the mechanical fan along with the electrical fans?
NO, just two 1300 cfm spal fans. no issues yet. It's a monster evans radiator so that helps.
Quote from: myk on December 07, 2009, 11:35:54 AM
Which H4 light kit did you use?
They are Hellas, got them on ebay. 150 bucks for all 4 housings with bulbs and adaptor pigtails included
Quote from: myk on December 07, 2009, 11:35:54 AM
Has it started snowing in New York yet? Lol...
Not yet. but our warm spell is over and it's steadily in the high 30's low 40's now. It will start soon. But her on Long Island, we dont' really get much snow so I can't complain. I can pretty much drive the charger through the winter if I want.
You know I went to West Marine's site and didn't see your panel. Do you have a part number?
What you've done with the fans is something I've always been interested in. If you're good with two 1300 cfm fans then I should be alright, even in San Diego heat, although...you do have a trick radiator though-I'm still running a stock 26".
By the way I wasn't sure if I could power things off of the starter relay, so thanks for clearing that up for me. My 'alt output stud already has 4 ring terminals on it and it's getting REALLY crowded.
Now, if I were to wire in H4 bulbs, I noticed that some of the pre-fab wiring harnesses have 3 wires or connectors on them. The way I have my halogens set up now with the relay upgrade I just did is with 4 connections: power in, out, ground and feed from the alternator. How do you go about wiring in the new H4's?
Finally, I asked about the snow because my 'ex moved out there and I've been waiting for the chance to tease her about the cold weather.
Anyway, thanks for your input, the car and I appreciate it!
I don't know about that wiring on the amount of wires. I actually used my stock harness coming out of my relays to the lights. I may replace them, but I didn't. so my aftermarket headlights just plugged into them prettty much.
with the fans, i wouldn't worry about the radiator. it's the quality of the fans. use either spal or a factory OE fan out of a high performance car like a lincoln mark VIII, mercedes, etc...
SO more of the same I recently upgraded my charging wiring to 8 GA and added a separate 12 source from the battery via an under dash switch for power/ fuses to all the non stock stuff. I also made a new supply via 8 GA wire through a maxi a fuse to the Main splice to give the dash power.
my question is I just bought the 120 amp alt because my 60 am p cant handle charging my battery with the load. I am no going to upgrade to 4 GA wire. can I route it directly to the battery or should I still junction it at the starter relay? would be my first question
also I had my headlight relay harness connected to my starter relay for a constant 12 v source and the new dash splice supply wire to feed dash. I have all these connections on a junction and then one line to the starter relay so If I run 4g wire directly to battery , I could then run a feed wire from the batter to the junction to feed the dash and headlight relays.?
any suggestions would be great , thanks in advance
you can go either way up to you I chose straight to the battery instead of the stud only because my wire is 3/000 welding wire.
(http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc320/shift4knights/engine_zps6bd2f278.jpg) (http://s218.photobucket.com/user/shift4knights/media/engine_zps6bd2f278.jpg.html)
sounds good, but the alt I got last night was not correct from the store so I have to go back .
I see you went with the big 200 amp alt and fit ment issues , maybe I missed that ?
180amp/320 output max. no fitment issues except bought a spacer at ACE hardware for 2.50 I believe an inch to extend it to align the belts correctly.
Yeha I don't need that big of an alt but the work you did looks great!
Im waiting on the second attempt to get the alt I ordered sunday, after I get it tonight ill let you know how I made out. thanks
well I've been trying since Sunday to get the right alternator, major disconnect in communications at the place I went. luckily I knew the manager of the speed shop and he is resolving the issue with in.
they tried telling me that part number 7552204 is the same as 13313, they are both 120 am p alternators but that's it.
OK, dredging up a super old thread here, but I'm gonna ask:
Did anyone notice when they ordered the Nippodenso alternator, from say, a 1988 D150 with a double v belt pulley already on it, that the pulley grooves are a little smaller than what comes on the car? Like maybe they're metric?
Well, the new alternator is in. Ended up buying some 1/4" gas nipples, hogging the inside out to 3/8 for a nice tight fit on the bolts, and cutting them to the length needed. I packed up the old spacers with the old alternator. Bought a shorter belt, a Gates 7440, and ran a 8 gauge power wire to the starter solenoid to take most of the load. I ended up welding a turn stop onto a 5/16 nut, and used a 2" long bolt on the adjuster side, so it's still a one man job to tension it.
Fired it up, and lo and behold, 14 volts at a low lopey idle, I'll call that a win. The belt definitely doesn't sit as low in the new pulley as the others, but it works.