OK, well looks like I'm going to paint it now, I only seem to do painting every 5 years so just long enough for things to get "fuzzy" so here's plan
- Body work is about 98% complete, anything left will be a glaze dab here and there
- clean/degrease and sand to 320 grit and Epoxy prime
- wait 4hr then Poly/build prime
- Wait 12 hours then block sand to 500 grit and hit any high/low spots found re poly prime and block over worked areas
- Degrease, cheese cloth and base/clear
- Going with PPG Shopline...am familiar with PPG and have had good results
Did I miss anything?
Well if that's what the TDS sheets recommend fo grit and dry time, then should be fine
Only thing I don't see, and don't know if it's required, sealer on the primer just before base coat gets applied?
Thx Blk, the Epoxy primer is supposed to sever as the sealer between the old substrate and new, and high build is supposed to be compatable with top coat
Canadian, automotive paints is one of the few times I read the instructions lol!
Only thing I just noticed. You keep saying "poly" prime. Is that polyester or polyurethane primer . If it's polyester , which is more or less a sprayable putty . You SHOULD put a sealer coat of some sort down before base coat.
Correct, fill primer.. Ah, ok let me check, said it was suitable for top coats but ill double check!
The Polyester Primer like the old featherfill & newer Slick Sand is catylized with a small clear tube of catylist similar to what you see in fiberglass resin. usually 4 tubes per gallon. Once this stuff kicks, in about a hour or 2 you can usually start sanding soon after. if you are using this they prefer you use a courser grit to prime over then regular primer to avoid bridging, if you know what that is. Instructions should be followed. LEON.
P.S. I have a habit of sealing everything I paint if it needs it or not. Some people never seal anything. I know people like that, and seen them run into problems because of it.
Yup, using slick sand. Well seems like cheap insurance just to shoot some sealer over it...thanks HH!
Sealer / Primer .
My preference is to spray your final coat of sealer/primer . Let it cure , and finish sand for base coat application .
I prefer this over wet on wet process.
In case there are any problems or defects when spraying the sealer / primer they can be sand out and your base will lay down nicer on the prepped surface rather whatever the sealer laid down like out of the gun. Not to mention the potential problem of incorrect flash time of the sealer which will effect everything you put on top.
Some prefer to seal, add 1 or 2 coats of base, let that dry, then sand, then reapply base. It's called denibbing. :scratchchin: :Twocents:
Quote from: hemi-hampton on October 19, 2020, 10:32:32 PM
Some prefer to seal, add 1 or 2 coats of base, let that dry, then sand, then reapply base. It's called denibbing. :scratchchin: :Twocents:
And for a beginner , can open up an endless chance for other errors to happen. :shruggy:
I doubt you will admit it, but by avoiding the wet on wet process it compley eliminates a whole group of potentail problems. The wet on wet is more a production process than anything.
The OP does not do this for a living or eveyday . I doubt has a spray booth and probably does not have all the tools that a professional shop does. Any chance to remove a potential problem that will not effect the finished result seem like a no brainer . :Twocents:
If your in the US and are still able to get solvent based - base coat the denibbing is ALOT easier. Here in Canada we must use waterbourn base coat. This stuff is NOT user friendly for denibbing . Better to start with a nice CLEAN prepped surface, apply base and clear end up with a nice beautiful finished product that requires little to no buffing or polishing .
Thanks guys, I was going to let 1st coat of base dry throughly and run a tack cloth over it to see if it catches on much dirt, if so was going to hit it lightly with 600 and then press with remaining coats of base followed after appropriate time by clear
Well on Schedule, start blocking tomorrow. :2thumbs:
Next question, since its apart would there be any consequences for base coating a few panels at a time since it's all apart? I know I had to HUSTLE all day to get those two sets of primers...I'm to lazy for that lol!
Well the " ultimate job " is to do it with the panles off so there are no tape lines. But that comes with its own challanges especially when spraying a metallic.
If I was in your position I would cut-in all the panles. So that means inside door jambs , underhood , trunk , back side of hood and trunk , inside edges of fenders . You basically have to do this regardless because I don't think you have the opportunity to paint the panle inside and out in one shot.
Cut everything in one day ( base and cleared ). Let dry for a few days. Then hang all your panels and paint the car as one . Tape lines will be minimal if done correctly . To me this better than painting panels off then trying to hang everything and pray that you don't bump scratch or chip an edge your fresh paint. Because now you have opened a new can of worms not going to be happy with !
It's looks like your doing an amazing job. Don't rush the process or get impatient .
Quote from: Canadian1968 on October 25, 2020, 08:11:26 AM
...If I was in your position I would cut-in all the panles. So that means inside door jambs , underhood , trunk , back side of hood and trunk , inside edges of fenders .
...To me this better than painting panels off then trying to hang everything and pray that you don't bump scratch or chip an edge your fresh paint. Because now you have opened a new can of worms not going to be happy with
Huh...I REALLY like that idea! I was absoultly scared about reassembly after paint..plus I can get the fenders/hood adjusted/rigged without fear of buggering anything up! Brillient!
So just sand down the over spray base clear and spray away right?
well depending where you are in your sanding
If you have not started all your panles yet.
Start with the inside first. You don't have to be as crazy with the sanding. Typically i just use 3M red scotch Brite pads since there are so many different edges / angles.
Don't sand the outside yet . for the most part you won't get much over spray on the other side excepts maybe on the fenders. A simple border of 1 1/2" back taped will eliminate almost all over spray .
Once cut in just flip over and block out as normal.
If you have already blocked everything I would do some masking so you don't get a heavy edge of over spray that you would have to block out or even over the whole car. Which you would have to resand again !
Masking is easier than re sanding eveything again !
Yup, yup yup...I'm following you. Havent started any blocking yet, Altering plan. Have brother in law helping me for a few days on the sanding, will paint, assemble THEN block! great advice thanks Can!
I like to paint all my metallic cars with all the panels together. I do the solid colors separate sometimes. LEON.
Wow HH nice work!, I wish I had a set-up like that!
Yup the more I think about it with metalics you could have a panel appear lighter or darker based on how flakes sit... plus I'm not that good. Any hoo, plan now scuff inner areas, and have those painted by tomorrow night and reassemble Tuesday morning and continue the block party!
OK, insides done. went well thought I was VERY Suprised how transpartent the B/O was over the primer, 4/5 coats! Still on schedule, reassembly tomorrow and block!
Looks great !
Generally speaking red and blue metallics are a nightmare for coverage !
A couple shades either way sometimes makes all the difference . But sometimes just got to work with what you have !
Yup, discover that on coverage
Car back together. I am SO GLAD I did it that way. Even being careful I still had a chip here or there but not in any critical areas. In addition, I really had to case my tail on fender/door gaps. I marked the shims but Maybe they were off originally?? In any event gaps good and block sanding in-progress, unfortunately off to work for. Few day
Wow I can't believe how fast you're working. You had no body work?
The rear 1/4 had some dents I needed to work and some other spots here and there but nothing big. only real pain was the back window area as I had lots of welding there
Well tomorrow is the big day! hope I don't screw it up! Oh, for the very last few ding repairs I mixed the last of the poly primer and "rolled it on" thick. I thought it was a good idea :scratchchin: Anyway sand those few spots, seal and paint!
Looking great. It took me 8 hours straight on paint day, including all the little stuff, cleaning etc. Also, masking is sooo tedious, I did before paint day. Especially around the wheels. I walked the complete car with empty gun just practicing perpendicular angle of gun tip, awkward on roof, I had to use a step stool. Thats all I can think of right now. Best of luck!
Well it was a disaster. After all that work and prep a 5 year old could have done a better job. I don't understand what went wrong temp and humidity was good all the input conditions were fine but I got runs everywhere! and when I tried to not overlap as much to avoid runs I got tiger stripes. well I'm noteven going in the gargae for a day or so and thinkof how I can recover :P
No, I'm not posting pictures...it's that bad!
Sorry to hear this! You're doing the correct thing and wait a day or so to figure it out! Are you using a large enough compressor?
Tiger stripes ? You were getting the runs in the base then ?
Did you switch needles in your gun.? You had mentioned that in another post ?
As long as your air pressure was right and your gun was set right. It may have been a little to much adrenaline!
So do you just have the base down or is it cleared ?
send it to me, I'll be glad to paint it for you. :scratchchin:
I have painted 3 cars, 2000, 2010 and one I did most recent.. My first 2 I had tiger stripes. I never figured out why until the most recent car and the use of you tube videos on how to set up the gun. I used fan patten wide open and overlap 50 percent. Keeping the tip 10 to 12 inches from the surface never stop the gun.
I know this is so frustrating but walking away was the best thing you could have done.
Check in tomorrow for better advice than mine but here is my first thought.
If you laid down the clear already I believe it's a fairly straightforward fix. 600 and then color and clear again.
- 1970 Yup 30 gal, I've painted with it before keeps 35-40 lbs at the gun
- Canadian -- No, I was laying it on with a 75% overlap and then "oh my a run?" so I went to abot a 50% over lap to avoid the build up and then stripes resulted
-- Diffrent gun Warwik 881H 1.4
-- No, I put down 1 coat of HORRIBLE base coat and called it quits I'll give it a day or so and see if I can sand it and salvage it
- HH I would GLADLY pay you for your time!
- Amadeus - Yeah, I've painted too...metallics...with the same gun! I don't understand? Nope just shot on one crappy base coat and quit
Here's what I got see if anyone sees anything:
- Temp 78° RH 64% Temp at car surface 88°
- Shopline Deep B/O poly 1:1 slow reducer
- Gun Warwick 881H 1.4 40psi at gun fan set as wide as possible 8-10 inches distance from surface NOTE: I discovered after a while pint dripping fron the nozzle, like the needle wasn't seating??
- Paint would flow on, look Ok then run about 10 seconds later run city.
- I'm hoping I can just take it back to 400 grit, figure out what happened and try again!
Photo for your amusement P.S. the sealer went on with no problems! at all :-)
If that's the first coat I would just keep going. I could be wrong but why not try one small section tomorrow and see if you can get complete coverage. I think some base paint will still adhere within 24 hours. Sand the runs down and continue on. Seriously I'm not that knowledgeable but my first coat of base looked pretty scary also.
I might try that...
what I see quick before I head off to work.
That gun is not setup right . It look like it was fluttering and the spray pattern is off .
Do not worry about "tiger stripes " on first coat especially with a low hiding colour like this. Your going to see your first couple of passes until you start to get coverage . Sorry I missed if you said you changed needle. You said it was dripping like the needle wasn't seating which is totally possible. Either you have a piece of crap stuck in there or you switched needles and it is not seating properly to the fluid tip. Use the gun as it came. The tip of the needle is the only thing that matters ( referring to your other thread) The shape of the taper will be designed to fit the fluid tip.
40 PSI is crazy high for HVLP. That juse doesn't seem right thr 2 I use regular are sprayed at 22 psi and 19 psi. Are you using inline regulator just before the gun ? I see the gun it self has an in handle regulator . Open that up all the way then regulate with your inline gauge. I would do some test spray on some card board or paper to get everything dialed in before going at the car again .
OK I talked myself off the ledge a bit and wetsanded the runs out, I think I can fix it it will just take a LOT more paint than expected. I can only guess I was too slow and too close so I'm going to try just the fenders and hood in the coming days and see how it goes...I'll do it in 'bite sized chunks" and "mist on the base" instead of trying to lay it down with a wet edge and plan on 5 or 6 coats
- Canadian -- The product sheet says to use that pressure at the gun (not cap) and yes do run it through a regulator on the gun
-- The splotchyness is me getting frustrated and trying to "fill in the light spots" I'm hoping with enough coats I can make it solid agin
-- I had the needle (trigger) adjusted all the way out for full flow, if I run it in a few turns the leak stops
-- copy on test sprays! :2thumbs:
Shopline being cheap paint it does not cover very good or fast usually being more transparent. A mistake alot of people do is trying to get coverage on first coat. put it on lighter & not try to cover but more importantly try getting it even. lots of lighter even coats better then a couple of heavy coats. it's hard to run base coat but not a single stage. I wouldn't advise doing any panel painting on a metallic if trying to keep even but instead walk the whole side, this will keep it much more even then trying to do a panel at a time where overlap at the panel ends will be darker. but once you got full entire coverage that will be much less of a concern. :Twocents: Just my 2 cents, I'm sure other opinions will vary. Good Luck, Leon.
For example, Here's one coat on the Roadrunner, Which I believe was also shopline base. LEON.
Thanks for that HH. I think I expected too much from the 1st coat and appreciate the photo. perhaps all isn't lost!
This was my mantra as I walked the car. "1st coat is a bond coat". its really serving as a sticky surface for the 2nd and 3rd to adhere. 1st coat was nerve racking for me. 3rd and 4th coat was fun.
I used 4 coats of base when I did my trunk and hood. 4th coat allowed me to relax and just focus on even coverage, as I was just re learning how to paint. 3 coats for the remainder. (Yes I did paint in 2 stages).
Quote from: hemi-hampton on November 05, 2020, 09:22:24 PM
For example, Here's one coat on the Roadrunner, Which I believe was also shopline base. LEON.
Thanks very much for this picture. The timing is awesome, I am spraying the exterior of my car this weekend using Shopline base (2135) K5 and really noticed it needed 4 coats in the trunk and engine area and even though my first coat was heavier than this picture I thought I should be putting even more down per coat as web search seems to point to 3 coats of base, first timer here...so I will continue on in the same manner as I did feel the paint was more translucent(weaker) than what 3 coats of base could produce.
I did both sides again, still have significant color mismatches but I think its salvageable with another round of wet sanding and another gallon of base coat :yesnod:
Thinking through this, I think the cause is I watched some you tube videos on painting to get back up to speed. The guy stressed a "wet edge" on the paint, 75% overlap and and shooting from 8-10 inches. I did exactly as he did at the same speed and got those horrible runs. maybe he uses a diffrent paint system? anyway I feel better and noted medium reducer seemed to help as well. I'll to the hood and trunk next, let it sit a day then wet sand and Hopefully make final coats.
Amadeus - Thanks yup that worked out better for me...liked the mantra lol!
Plainfield - glad you can avoid my mistakes. I thought 1 gallon of paint would be plenty...well maybe if you know what your doing lol...but for me i'm off to buy my second gallon. Your K5 too? Cool!
Is that 2 coats now? 3rd coat should allow you to even everything out, overlap and consistent speed. One thing I learned this time out is never do the same pass twice even if you think something got messed up, fix it in the next coat.
I have 2 base color inconsistencies on my job and I know exactly why. I stumbled and paused the gun. It was the 3rd coat and I tried to fix both with a spot spray. Knew I could not do another full coat because I was running out of paint. So it's there and I'll live with it.
That's a really great color btw!
Quote from: AKcharger on November 06, 2020, 10:55:33 AM
I did both sides again, still have significant color mismatches but I think its salvageable with another round of wet sanding and another gallon of base coat :yesnod:
Thinking through this, I think the cause is I watched some you tube videos on painting to get back up to speed. The guy stressed a "wet edge" on the paint, 75% overlap and and shooting from 8-10 inches. I did exactly as he did at the same speed and got those horrible runs. maybe he uses a diffrent paint system? anyway I feel better and noted medium reducer seemed to help as well. I'll to the hood and trunk next, let it sit a day then wet sand and Hopefully make final coats.
Amadeus - Thanks yup that worked out better for me...liked the mantra lol!
Plainfield - glad you can avoid my mistakes. I thought 1 gallon of paint would be plenty...well maybe if you know what your doing lol...but for me i'm off to buy my second gallon. Your K5 too? Cool!
I got 2 gallons so I can have some left over...
Looking better . The colour your using is definitely adding to your challenges . Poor coverage can be frustrating.
As for your gun setup , that would explain the gun leaking. A good way to start your adjustment is to back off the needle adjustment all the way, pull the trigger all the way, then start to turn the adjustment in until you feel pressure on the trigger . Then 2 turns in and go from there .
I did see that's what they recommend. But wow that is high . Again for HVLP.
Painting is not something you get the hang of the first time that's for sure . What works for one person doesn't always work for the next. Which is why you tube videos can be dangerous sometimes !
As already suggested do not panel paint. Keep it as even as possible.
I hit the trunk and hood again tonight. I dropped the paint on from like 30,000 feet so that cured the runs lol. Looking directly at panels up close they look great but see patterns in direct sunlight. I'm hoping some more coats APPLIED PROPERLY will fix that problem??
Amadeus - That's about 4-5 coats AFTER the wet sanding
Plainfield - Smart! May I suggest you "Mist" on the 1st few coats very lightly. had I done that I'd be finshed by now! I'd say if you do it right 5-7 coats minimum. Hey how much did you pay for a gallon of K5 shopline? I paid $200 a gallon here in Fl
Canadian -- I did last '70 in PPG Omni single stage and it covered very well, shot some clear over it still looks great! This stuff is like water with food coloring, hope enough coats gets it right
-- Yup gun is working like a champ!
-- Yeah glad I didn't do just a panel! I think I have it down now only problem is getting the bottom of the fenderrs and 1/4 with in line regulator and water seperator even on jact stands it's difficult
At least I feel better!
I guess you could tilt the air horn (think that's the name) for down low, let's you tilt the gun. But Do Not forget to re set it!
One more advise, Here's a mistake I've seen many people make, even more experianced painters & the problem is even worse if painting in Garage with less or poor lighting. And that problem is many people will add coats until they gradually see the uneveness & or blotchyness slowly disappear & then it looks totally covered & even & they then Clear it & call it done because it looks like it's done. or at least it looked covered & done in the Garage, until they wheel it out of the Garage into the bright sunlight & now the uneven blotchyness sticks out like a sore thumb. And you go WHOOAAA, What happened. SO, After it just looks like you got it covered, put another coat or 2 (preferably 2) on it to make sure. I've seen people not seal a car run into this type of problem more often. Hope this Helps :scratchchin: :shruggy: LEON.
Leon, good tip...and I'll take 'em all!
I'm spraying in the driveway (have to clean it before wifes seems the mess!) so I have sunlight and it shows EVERYTHING! OK but you can see the stripes and patterns. But just like you said, when I pull it in the garage I think wow...it's ready for clear!
yup glad now that I sealed!
a little trick to help get rid of zebra stripes or tiger stripes is spay both horizonal & vertical & mist the last 2 coats on lighter with more distance. Hope that helps :Twocents: LEON.
p.s. some colors will blotch if first coat of clear is put on to soon & to heavy, PPG's DBU reactive reducer base was famous for that in the old days.
Quote from: AKcharger on November 06, 2020, 09:01:28 PM
I hit the trunk and hood again tonight. I dropped the paint on from like 30,000 feet so that cured the runs lol. Looking directly at panels up close they look great but see patterns in direct sunlight. I'm hoping some more coats APPLIED PROPERLY will fix that problem??
Amadeus - That's about 4-5 coats AFTER the wet sanding
Plainfield - Smart! May I suggest you "Mist" on the 1st few coats very lightly. had I done that I'd be finshed by now! I'd say if you do it right 5-7 coats minimum. Hey how much did you pay for a gallon of K5 shopline? I paid $200 a gallon here in Fl
Canadian -- I did last '70 in PPG Omni single stage and it covered very well, shot some clear over it still looks great! This stuff is like water with food coloring, hope enough coats gets it right
-- Yup gun is working like a champ!
-- Yeah glad I didn't do just a panel! I think I have it down now only problem is getting the bottom of the fenderrs and 1/4 with in line regulator and water seperator even on jact stands it's difficult
At least I feel better!
I was around 200.00 a gallon...got about a 1000.00 in paint and the Euro Clear..
I didn't touch car, just cleaned garage and cleaned/waxed '72. I'll wet sand Sunday and standby for more base coat later. Hey, What is the consequence of putting on 4 or 5 coats of clear? I have 1 gallon but if the base coat is any indication I'm gonna use it fast. I expect with my "30,000 feet" spraying method to avoid runs I MAY get 3 coats tops, not sure if thats enough for wet sand and buff.
- Copy HH, I was doing that on last few sprays and it seemsed to be working
- Plainfield we're on EXACTLY the same page...dont run you'r base coat lol! :nana:
Sounds like youre on your way. I put on 4 coats of clear, hood and trunk, 3 for the rest. I ran out of Clear. I think you might want another gallon.
There is nothing wrong with putting on 4 coats of clear. You just make sure you allow proper flash. You wot be baking the clear like in a booth so solvent pop shouldnt be a problem .
Clear coat is typically not applied like base. The 30,000 ft gun distance you keep talking about is not going to go well for the clear coat. Are you going to use the same gun for clear ?
Something really bugs me about the 40 psi your spraying that gun at. Tell me you have a different gun for the clear ?
I think a gallon may only get you 2 coats. best to buy another. 2 coats is fine if you lightly sand & rub but any heavy duty sanding & rubbing I'd prefer 3. And 4 & 5 coats is only needed if you plan on starting out blocking the clear with 600, something I mostly only did when painting the class A show cars for Chrysler for the Auto Shows. LEON.
- Copy Amadeus thanks I'll get another gallon
- Canadian -- I'll be a LITTLE closer than that of course but at least I can sand/buff orange peel out. I'm VERY nervious and jerky about runs
-- Yeah, same gun...that was the plan :misbehaving:
-- Well I did drop pressure to 35 at Regulator I think at cap 10-15?
- HH -- If the base coat is any intication I'll botch it and have to wet-sand buff but at least I do have some skills "polishing a turd"
Thanks guys appreciate you following along!!
Hey AK..thought I would post some pics of my work from this weekend..older camera phone(sorry for the quality)..Its not a charger though....
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on November 09, 2020, 02:39:40 PM
Hey AK..thought I would post some pics of my work from this weekend..older camera phone(sorry for the quality)..Its not a charger though....
Oh now your just showing off! :icon_smile_big:
Looks great! is that cleared too? how many coats??
No showing off here I was a really nervous the whole time as this in my first paint job..The weather was perfect where I could open the shop windows to help keep the shop clean/well vented..I used about 18 furnance filters on the booth fans which exhaust into the shop. Started with seal coat, wet sand with 600, wiped and wiped then tack cloth, shoot base let dry for an hour... the Tack cloth again before clear...
I used an HTE gun 3 coats color and 2 coats Euro clear...this gun has a nice 12 inch wide pattern...Black Widow from Harbor Freight 1.3 tip...
It really puts in down..
3 coats of color and you got that much coverage! mine went on like water!!!
Well done! if you want to visit florida I have a job for you!
I used about 1 5/8 gallons (mixed) just for the exterior and just a little more than that on the engine bay, floor, trunk and gutter rail area of the convertible. If I had a roof I would have been short on paint...after going there a 2nd time for another quart to mix in before I started the exterior...I really think the (HTE)gun made the difference..lots of reviews and video showing how to set it up...I will be going over the work next weekend as I know of at least one run in the clear and still have to paint and my fender bolts. Should have done that first but that is a small job, the weather was perfect for this weekend to paint the exterior so that is the way I went..
AKCharger - any update? :popcrn:
Quote from: 1970Moparmann on November 16, 2020, 12:50:58 PM
AKCharger - any update? :popcrn:
Thanks for asking Sir..nope work and weather put it on hold. working on "rainy day" projects while I wait
Thanks for asking Sir..nope work and weather put it on hold. working on "rainy day" projects while I wait
[/quote]
:2thumbs: :2thumbs:
I had to put mine on hold also. I'm thinking hiatus until warm up in spring. Keep us updated if you choose to start again.
3rd time is a charm! had a PERFECT day to shoot...cloudy, 50% humidity and about 78° good coverage, no runs and all went well. I was hoping to get clear on but ran out of time plus I want to make sure there's not defects...I still have some base left so why not! if all goes well tomorrow for clear
Good luck, hopefully you get it cleared tomorrow, if not you'll have to worry about Window Time. LEON.
Looking good... :2thumbs:
Watch that recoat window like Hemi said....you don't want the clear peeling off later...
That looks fantastic! cant wait to see the next phase.
Well today was productive, plainfield scared me with the thought of my clear peeling off so I scuffed the car and shot another color coat just to be sure. The clear coat is 3 steps forwad and 1 step back, I have some runs. Seems I paint only in one of two ways: Orange peel or runs. The first few coats were light (orange peel) after it was nice and sticky I laid it on a bit heavier and it was looking NICE! then move to the other side to do the same thing. after 10 mins come back to 1st side and...runs! I'm not freaking out though as I'm well trained in clear coat run repair and I really liked what I saw under the clear, the base coat is solid. So tomorrow do the razorblade scrape trick and wet sand for more clear Saturday...I have almost a gallon and a 1/2 left!
I wouldnt worry too much about a run here or there. Just be patient like you said get it the next day. How many coats do you plan? btw that is going to Look Amazing!
Thanks for the kind words Sir! Well I'm estimating I have about 1.8 Gallons of clear and hardener, so probebly 10 light coats. I figure I'ld rather orange peel then next round or clear as wet sanding is easier than fixing runs
Nice work!! A fun learning process. I will be interested in what the price will total on the fill primer paint and clear. I have painted a couple cars in the past, but not lately and will be doing one this spring. :2thumbs:
I'm just shy of $2K for everything: Epoxy, fill and seal primer and paint and clear plus misc supplies. In hind sight I didn't really need the epoxy primer and 'm confident it would be about $600 less if I didn't have to redo everything
What kind of Clear are you using? :scratchchin: LEON.
PPG high Solids European Clear
You will be able to fix that ;) you will be sanding it down anyway...Did you reduce the clear? I did not...
Quote from: AKcharger on November 27, 2020, 10:06:30 AM
PPG high Solids European Clear
Can you post a Picture of the can, Not sure if I sprayed that before or not but I know I've sprayed lots of PPG High solids clear before. High Solids clears can be a little harder to spray then non High Solids clears in my opinion. LEON.
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on November 27, 2020, 10:35:22 AM
You will be able to fix that ;) you will be sanding it down anyway...Did you reduce the clear? I did not...
Most Clears get reduced, if he didn't reduce then it might be easier to spray if he does reduce if that's a option with that particular Clear. LEON.
Here is the product code I used for the exterior. Shopline European Clearcoat JC6700/ Activator JH6710 I Could not find a recommended product or ratio
I used Eastwood Euro Clear for the front wheel wheels and trunk, floorpan area...2:1 this product says it is ok to reduce..after spraying this product it did build up some on the spray gun tip...
Here ya' go HH, its a 2:1 reduction. Im sure its not the materials fault, its the user. It's a bummer i have to make more work for myself but at least I know what I'm doing from here out. Runs gone and moving on, hope to get last clear coats on soon
I've sprayed lots of shop line clear but don't think I've sprayed that. In the directions is there a option to thin it 10%? If not I'd try thinning 10% anyways. I'm sure it will help & you'll notice it sprays better. LEON.
When I sprayed the clear in my other Harbor Freight gun that spray the primers with worked fine..I switched to the smaller tip and started spraying the inside of the car. I could not get the clear not orange peel. I knew I had to get something different as it seemed unable to atomize the clear small enough. I researched new spray guns and settled on the Black Widow gun. Price was right too with the coupon. The film of paint/clear I put down with this BW gun had no comparison. It sprayed better than my detail spray gun too...
I think that Shop Line Clear recommends upto a 1.5 tip. LEON.
Hi guys first thanks for following/helping! don;t think I said thanks yet. Well made good progress today, wet sanded and shot on another 4 coats of clear. I actually used only my original gallon with about a pint in reserve for touch ups. It's all orange peeled but I'll take it. I recleared the door jambs and suprisingly they came out perfect with no runs or Orange peel. I'll keep ya posted with sanding
- HH the product sheet doesn't say anything about thining plus I didn't know what to thin it with, so shot it 2:1
- Sheet recommends 1.3 -1.6 needle, I used a 1.4
- Next job (if there ever is one) I'm going to buy a new gun
Hopefully with another 4 coats that will give you enough to sand all that orange peel out. :scratchchin: Good Luck. LEON.
I did a "confidence panel" today just to make sure my wetsand/buff plan is valid. All good, but still about 5x time more work than If I knew what I was doing lol. Anyway I still have some "Pinheads" left. Im sure there's a proper name for the bottom of the orange peel, but in bottom photo you can seem them. Question is should I buff those or go back to 1000grit to remove them?
as always thanks for following!
the first pic don't look too bad, the 2 nd pic I can see those bad spots from orange peel left behind & 3rd pic looks terrible. I'd re sand & re rub to get rid of all that as long as you think you got enough clear on it. Good Luck. LEON.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on November 30, 2020, 11:36:17 PM
the first pic don't look too bad, the 2 nd pic I can see those bad spots from orange peel left behind & 3rd pic looks terrible. I'd re sand & re rub to get rid of all that as long as you think you got enough clear on it. Good Luck. LEON.
It's on pretty thick so I'll keep at it and on next panels make sure I get it all out. 1st panel I intentionally left some spots hoping the 1500/2000/2500 would take them out.
You have a bunch of sanding but just keep thinking how good it will look in the spring. Set small goals for yourself(like one panel a week)..you will be done before you know it... :2thumbs:
Thanks for the kind words Sir
Well glad to see its all cleared. The orange peel is pretty heavy , but nothing you shouldn't be able to wet sand out. It's jst going to take some time..... a lot of time lol.
Been a Week, any Progress or updates :scratchchin: :shruggy:
Quote from: hemi-hampton on December 07, 2020, 07:45:58 PM
Been a Week, any Progress or updates :scratchchin: :shruggy:
Thanks for taking an intrest HH, yup well I've been hitting it HARD! I did the whole PAX side and evern swaped out to nice wheels to give myself a subliminal sense of accomplishement! It looked nice and I was happy... but when I REALLY looked at it I could still make out some sand scratches and "pinheads". I spent about a good 10 minutes trying to convince myself it was fine but thought..."Screw it" so I brought the whole car back to 600 grit and I'm going to reclear. It will be on hold for a bit work is coming up. :brickwall:
Is that snow on the car?? No...excess/removed clear
I sprayed the hood inserts and side scoops. It was hard to keep the shop warm enough...it got to 65F...so I decided to go ahead and reduce the shopline clear 5%...with a medium reducer...
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on December 08, 2020, 08:02:17 AM
I sprayed the hood inserts and side scoops. It was hard to keep the shop warm enough...it got to 65F...so I decided to go ahead and reduce the shopline clear 5%...with a medium reducer...
If that was the high solids clear did you notice the 5% seem to help or No? :scratchchin: :shruggy: LEON.
I say it helped quite a bit. Other than a dust spec here and there. There was almost no orange peel..Put down a tack coat...waited 15 mins, sprayed clear only enough to build a smooth film...let that set for 30 mins, sprayed another coat the same way. It seemed much easier to get a smooth film ...
Great job Plainfield! I was temped to reduce clear but the information sheet didn't show that as an option...perhaps next time ::)
I did finish my wheels today, repainted wheels, and caps. Replaced the cap centers and the real PITA was turning the "Brushed" stainless trim ring from road wheels into the "Chrome" type rings for rallye wheels. Believe it or not, still shooting to have it done by new years :rofl:
Your arms must be aching!
You are so persistent..
and That is what it takes! I cant tell you how many times I was gut punched by my project. I have still not fixed my roof scratches but I simply cant do anything until spring weather.
Is that snow on the car?? No...excess/removed clear
[/quote]
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on December 08, 2020, 06:11:09 PM
I say it helped quite a bit. Other than a dust spec here and there. There was almost no orange peel..Put down a tack coat...waited 15 mins, sprayed clear only enough to build a smooth film...let that set for 30 mins, sprayed another coat the same way. It seemed much easier to get a smooth film ...
That's why I suggested thinning upto 10% earlier. As Fred Dryer Hunter would always say, "Works for Me" :scratchchin: :Twocents:
I did n't ignore ya' HH, you do this for a living...I just didnt have any guidance from the data sheet on what type and how much...I have enough problems following directions exactly, I could only imagine the rsult if I didn't!
BUT for next clear WHERE can I get that ino on type reducer needed and ratio...like is it 6:6:1 or somthng?
I admire your dedication. A lot of guys would have thrown in the towel a long time ago. There is a ton to learn in the refinish industry and most of it comes with plain trial and error and hours of experience. This is no doubt a big learning experience and will only help you in your further projects. You will learn that you do get what you pay for. There is a big difference between that $200 clear coat and that $400. Same goes for spray guns
Quote from: Canadian1968 on December 10, 2020, 07:44:00 PM
...There is a big difference between that $200 clear coat and that $400. Same goes for spray guns
I'm with ya' I thought it was a good gun? From now on I'll consider it a "primer only" gun :2thumbs:
I like my using my Sata Jet 2000, I have a 3000 & 95 & 90 but prefer the 2000 which is now a antique. A nice Sata Jet will cost you anywhere from $800 to $1,600. Buy 3 new ones & that's alot of Money. LEON.
Well only project I expect before I die is the '72, but I don't see that coming down for paint for another 5 years...just in time to forget everything I just learned :rofl:
OK, well trying to make the 1 Jan deadline. Paint done, now putting all 171 parts I removed back together! (OK in 2005 I put a Vinyl top on..how do I d that again??)
Perseverance. Wow, that is just amazing.
Great determination!! Passed me up...lol :cheers:
Looks good now :2thumbs: Curious, how many hours did it take to sand & rub that Paint? LEON.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on December 23, 2020, 10:56:13 PM
Looks good now :2thumbs: Curious, how many hours did it take to sand & rub that Paint? LEON.
Ah, well I cheated a bit and had a shop spray the clear in their booth ;D AfterI sanding it all back to 600 I had a "come to Jesus meeting" with myself. My choices were 1) reshoot it again and hope for the best 2) Buy a new gun and reshoot it...and hope for the best 3) Have a shop spray it in their booth. I hate to admit I can't to everything perfectly but the clear coat soundly defeated me. But I will say it was $$ well spent, it's awesome! don't even need to cut and buff!
DID THEY USE THE SAME CLEAR YOU USED? LEON.
Yes, I bought another gallon of that clear and was waiting for weather and time off work... and gave it to shop with car and $$
Last questions!
1) It's been 3 weeks since clear was sprayed...is it safe to install stripe
2) we're gonna have temps in the high 30's...is that too cold for the left over paint/clear or do I need to bring it in the house? (need to shoot bay still)
Thanks!
Oh, I owe you guys photos..
:cheers: Looks awesome from here!! Way to stay with it!!
In my opinion, if your not going to drive it in Winter & Store it all Winter, Why the rush to get the stripe on :shruggy: I'd suggest waiting at least 60 days. 90 days better. Just my opinion, I'm sure others will vary. LEON.
- Thanks for the kind words Plainfield! I discovered the secret formula is just two simple things...Time and Money!
- Leon no race I guess, I just want to declare the car "DONE" I can wait a bit more thx :2thumbs:
Well, moved on to Engine and engine bay. I'm Very happy with how it looks and I didn't do any thing diffrent? Perhaps I get 'stage fright" doing the whole thing?? Well, car is just about done :-)
:o OH, NO, The dreaded painted caster camber access plate :brickwall: one of my biggest Pet Peeves. :shruggy:
Quote from: hemi-hampton on January 20, 2021, 01:03:15 AM
:o OH, NO, The dreaded painted caster camber access plate :brickwall: one of my biggest Pet Peeves. :shruggy:
They looked taped off to me? :shruggy:
Nevermind ;D was looking at the actual bolts vs the plate..
I've only seen them Body color, they were black but I thought that was a goof...Darn!
Well Engine is back in and I'm gonna call the car "Done" I still have a few little things left but it's 99% and I'm thrilled. bummer is once you put all the A/C stuff on can't really tell that much diffrence.
I'm very happy with this car that all the original stuff still works great (well have to R2 seals and charge A/C) I equivalate it to buying a '70 charger in 1978; Still looks good and most everything is still there and works fine with just one or two things people messed with.
Great job getting this back together so quickly...time to :drive:
Looks good, you need that heat shield thing that goes ontop of the drivers side exhaust manifold & then has a tube that goes to dual snorkel air cleaner. they are hard to find. I think the Radiator Core support anti-freeze decal goes more the the drivers side. Air Cleaner decal goes to air cleaners pass side but hard to make them stick if you got the textured paint on air cleaner. LEON.
Looks pretty good from here. Congrats :2thumbs:
Now the big question: Would you do it all again?
- Thanks Plainfield! Yup! tomorrow is it's 1st car show
- LEON yup, would love to find one of those shields, I will someday. While GENERALY correct about the antifreeze decal location this one had it on the PAX side so I placed it EXACTLY like the original. in fact I even made sure the emission decal near the data plate was crooked, just a tad, like the original (it was a Friday afternoon car)
- Rallye Mike Wow had to think on that one but answer is YES. It would be VERY difficult to find a car as original and unmolested as this (though I could go without the Criminal body guy!)
FYI,
The exhaust stove assembly is available from Tony's Parts..
First part list on the site.LOL
https://www.tonysparts.com/ 165.00
Thanks Plainfield, super cool they're re-popping them
Quote from: PlainfieldCharger on February 21, 2021, 07:32:32 AM
FYI,
The exhaust stove assembly is available from Tony's Parts..
First part list on the site.LOL
https://www.tonysparts.com/ 165.00
Nice some one is re making them. When I was looking for mine 20 years ago no repops then. Thanks for the Tip. LEON.
Quote from: AKcharger on February 20, 2021, 08:48:56 PM
- Thanks Plainfield! Yup! tomorrow is it's 1st car show
- LEON yup, would love to find one of those shields, I will someday. While GENERALY correct about the antifreeze decal location this one had it on the PAX side so I placed it EXACTLY like the original. in fact I even made sure the emission decal near the data plate was crooked, just a tad, like the original (it was a Friday afternoon car)
- Rallye Mike Wow had to think on that one but answer is YES. It would be VERY difficult to find a car as original and unmolested as this (though I could go without the Criminal body guy!)
Forgot yours was original before the repaint, can't argue with your location since that's where it was originally. They actually vary on all cars but usually more to drivers side, mine was in more in the middle. LEON.
Quote from: AKcharger on January 20, 2021, 09:22:24 AM
I've only seen them Body color, they were black but I thought that was a goof...Darn!
Remember, your Car & Engine Compartment was all Original. Surprised you deviated from the original black & went body color. Yeah, I see them painted Body Color all the Time, That's why it's one of my bIggest Pet Peeves, Most People do it wrong. LEON.
Quote from: hemi-hampton on February 21, 2021, 05:32:47 PM
Remember, your Car & Engine Compartment was all Original. Surprised you deviated from the original black & went body color. Yeah, I see them painted Body Color all the Time, That's why it's one of my bIggest Pet Peeves, Most People do it wrong. LEON.
Yeah...I was moving fast on the bay and thought the previous owner painted them (engine was rebuilt in 1991) But leoon just for you I'm gonna fix it!! were they semi gloss black or gloss?
oh 1st Show for the car and won best in class..Hooray for me! (180 cars and only 5 MOPARS lol) prefect weather and car ran great even did good idling for 45 min in traffic!
Congrats! The car looks awesome! :2thumbs: :2thumbs:
Great job on the show...that side shot looks great!!
Congrats!
Also painted this thing today. Your pain and suffering came to mind lol
Called Habanero orange !
Hi Canadian! wow, looks nice!. That's what happens when you have skills proper equiptment and experience! :smilielol: