Nearby I found a 73 Rallye with some great options. 400 engine, 4 speed trans, with A/C, bulge hood, rallye dash, console with bucket seats, 1/2 vinyl roof, a true A57 Rallye Charger. The body is solid, virtually rust free but banged up a little, paint and interior are rough, all the A/C parts under the hood are missing. I was told it runs and shifts smooth, brakes work.
What would be the going price for a turd like this? And then what are restored cars selling for?
(https://images.craigslist.org/00a0a_kkZ7ZSUirjg_600x450.jpg)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00t0t_h9qcjlVDb9k_600x450.jpg)
(https://images.craigslist.org/00Z0Z_9xUAPDImwQV_600x450.jpg)
Neato. If i was looking id pay maybe 5-6k. Resto value depends on how hardcore the resto is.
A cool combo if you love late third gen.
Agree with Mike if you hear it run, and row the gears. Even a little more is a reasonable buy.
Dang, I think I want it.
Edit after looking at pics closer- 5k seems good. Missing grilled and all the bumper fillers, and as you mentioned under hood AC.
Also, plan on losing money restoring it. Do it cuz it's cool. I'd love to find one like that. Sold my U code eight years ago to go to college.
Restored could beat the lows $20K rate ( per some value websites ), but the price of the one you got, hard to say it without pics. 4 speeds are a rare specimen since 73 and with air even more. Bulged hood, Rallye clusters are part of the Rallye package so don’t need to be mentioned when saying Rallye
Whoah! The pics loaded up after my post LOL. I’m with the rest of posters on the aprox price but to be more detailed the interior pieces will say a lot. If panels are damaged ( Chalky ) it will be a headache because the low quality repro pieces available. Good used grilles could be found, but repros are available now ( $1000 rate )
That stupid car is heavy on my mind. Dang I wish someone else would hurry up and buy it, lol.
It would easily be made into a "muscle rat". Hunt Ebay for some interior parts along with some new parts, it smells horrible inside. Go through the brakes, fuel system and suspension with new parts. Muscle rat for now? I dont know?
being 4 speeds and being not so common I think not restore it to stock specs or slighty restomod car is a cruelty ( IMHO )
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 06, 2018, 10:56:13 AM
being 4 speeds and being not so common I think not restore it to stock specs or slighty restomod car is a cruelty ( IMHO )
True.
What I am thinking is saving body and paint for the last part, years in the future, maybe even the next owner. Get it in good condition mechanically now, Which is what I am good at, do something to help the interior, get rid of the smell, drive it and have some fun with it while leaving the body as it is. Thats a "muscle rat".
He wants almost $9000 for it. Way to much to spend in the current condition.
Those were really neat cars in my books ? :2thumbs:
I'm thinking the original 400 behind the 4 spd may have had a Forged Crank as late as 1973 production as well ?
I guess I'm in the minority here, but I don't think from the description and given the "rarity" of the Car ? that $7500 is too far off ?
If I was closer I would probably buy the damn thing !
Nice car with great options but still a '73. Nine grand is a bit too much for its current condition but... ship it overseas and sell it for fifteen grand :-) The missing grille is worth 350$ and the A/C shouldn't cost a fortune either. Seat covers are okay, a good upholstery is probably not worth it (if you make it a rat).
Can you gather more inforation? Is it numbers matching? Built sheet available?
Damn... that one's tempting!! Does the seller ship overseas? :-)
Cheers
Tim
Quote from: Challenger340 on December 06, 2018, 01:48:32 PM
Those were really neat cars in my books ? :2thumbs:
I'm thinking the original 400 behind the 4 spd may have had a Forged Crank as late as 1973 production as well ?
I guess I'm in the minority here, but I don't think from the description and given the "rarity" of the Car ? that $7500 is too far off ?
If I was closer I would probably buy the damn thing !
I wish you were closer too, to buy the damn thing. :icon_smile_wink: I have the stroker build going on right now, another project soaking up cash is not really wise but, this car is rare for a 3rd gen. It's factory Yellow with white interior, a girls car. Then they put a beefy, mans man, drive train. :drool5:
Quote from: 42TIM on December 06, 2018, 02:22:39 PM
Nice car with great options but still a '73. Nine grand is a bit too much for its current condition but... ship it overseas and sell it for fifteen grand :-) The missing grille is worth 350$ and the A/C shouldn't cost a fortune either. Seat covers are okay, a good upholstery is probably not worth it (if you make it a rat).
Can you gather more information? Is it numbers matching? Built sheet available?
Damn... that one's tempting!! Does the seller ship overseas? :-)
Cheers
Tim
I didn't get under it and check the block numbers, sitting in a mud puddle with dog shiiit everywhere. But what the car has matches the fender tags. 2 tags. I will post them. Seller is an old dude, 73. He lives in a junk yard basically. Must have been 20 old cars in his front and back yards. Not surprisingly this 73 Charger was the better looking of them all.
It's got all the right stuff, 3rd Gen or not !
a little off topic....
I had a blue '73 ralleye "back in the day".... and I stuffed a pretty stout 440/gears in it on purpose, because, well...... the later B Bodies weren't noted for being all that quick in the late 70's/early 80's, and were considered sorta "smoggers", or easy-pick'ins not taken very seriously by X brand guys ?
Never took it to the track, but lots of Sat Nite street duty, and I sure did hose ALOT of unsuspecting guys in just about anything dumb enough wanting to roll from a stoplight !
Just my opinion...
but overall I feel the '71 and up were better Cars than their earlier '70 down brethren, just better built.
looks pretty straight from the pictures , & a good color too banana yellow :yesnod: :coolgleamA:
Wow that car is loaded! 9k is too much but if the owner was advertising it wide enough he would find someone near that number. A 73 400 AC set up and and grills are not hard to find.
imagine... just with white interior and no hood black out ( at least that's what I can quickly see on fender tag not being expert on codes )
(https://static.cargurus.com/images/site/2014/09/02/14/56/pic-7188421614406410114-1600x1200.jpeg)
Yellow looks even better with a 4 speed!
Very interesting car.
I'd BUY IT IF I WERE YOU. That beige color has to go though. Did someone say Yellow ?. 100 percent better than beige. :Twocents:
just don't ask lennard, he is always smoking crack.
Probably worth 6k-7,500 range. One thing for certain, its a uncommon and even rare example of a 73 charger.
If you don't buy it now, might as well resolve to not find another or settle for an automatic charger.
This car will allow you to have something special wherever you go, being a factory 4 speed.
Quote from: ACUDANUT on December 07, 2018, 02:23:01 PM
I'd BUY IT IF I WERE YOU.
REALLY ?... :D
Quote from: ACUDANUT on December 07, 2018, 02:23:01 PM
That beige color has to go though. Did someone say Yellow ?
I'd say is sunfaded...
Y1... Brite Yellow on Chrysler... Lemon Twist on Plymouth, Top Bannana on Dodge
(http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/images/TSBs/1973/23-01-73C%20page2.jpg)
and the 73 Rallye image I posted probably overexposed
I spoke with Eddy, the seller today. He is moving in the right direction on the price, not quite there yet. . Not sure if it is the original drive train. Where are the numbers on the 400 block? Right side rail above the oil pan? 383 the same place?
I have to do some searching around for some parts. Front and rear lower valance are both banged up and the front is rusted. Anyone repop those?
I know the interior door and rear panels are only made by PUI and they are poor quality.
It has a rare 4-speed Big Block set up that is worth half the car. Sell that and the hood and you brake even. :2thumbs:
Someone just listed a rear valence for $75 in the for sale section.
Quote from: Paul G on December 07, 2018, 03:29:51 PM
I spoke with Eddy, the seller today. He is moving in the right direction on the price, not quite there yet. . Not sure if it is the original drive train. Where are the numbers on the 400 block? Right side rail above the oil pan? 383 the same place?
yes
Quote from: Paul G on December 07, 2018, 03:29:51 PM
I have to do some searching around for some parts. Front and rear lower valance are both banged up and the front is rusted. Anyone repop those?
Yes, AMD
Quote from: Paul G on December 07, 2018, 03:29:51 PM
I know the interior door and rear panels are only made by PUI and they are poor quality.
Can tell the uppers quality, but lowers available are all POS... PALCO could be the only "acceptable" option and I meant acceptable just because there is no other "acceptable" option over them: Good enough for a driver though. FORGETT ABOUT ACCUFORM. The problem is A pillars and rear lowers for 74 are being made just by Accuform. There is a manufacturer of E body panels which were being sold by old website seller not anymore on bussines called RM restorations or something like that, what are the greatest pieces I have seen and since seatbacks panels are the same between E and B bodies, is the only perfect piece you'll get REALLY satisfied ( BTDT, you remember all the headache with the scam I got from "that" guy you helped me on contact, so I know about repro panels "bussines" hunting for the best pieces available LOL ). Thought the color don't match between those and the PALCO ones, being the Palco pieces more whitened than the seatbacks. These seatbacks panels are available now at Classic Industries.
RM/Classic Industries seatbacks are molded in the Off white color... PALCO are molded bright white then painted over to make them a bit off white but not like the seatbacks. Can't tell which one is really the correct one. Have to put everyone side to side to the originals I have in hands ( but 1K miles away one from the other LOL ).
PUI foams ( if needed ) are in hands something like low quality inspection made, thought can't tell how they are installed yet. You could get good perfect pieces or pieces where the quality inspection guy was drunk.
The only "bads" I have read around about upper panels sold by PUI is the hard they are to install because you have to reuse your original panel hardware, and that could be hard to make them work correctly, since originally is an "industrial" process, being "punched" to the cardboard, though never have heard anything wrong about how they look side to side with original piece ( finish quality )
Quote from: ACUDANUT on December 07, 2018, 03:43:45 PM
It has a rare 4-speed Big Block set up that is worth half the car. Sell that and the hood and you brake even. :2thumbs:
hard to admit 73/74 are a bit charming for you!!! LOL
Thanks for all that info Nacho. I am surprised that so much is now available for the 73/74 Charger's.
The roof that had vinyl is bare metal in some spots. Thinking about that, sanding and priming and painting it satin black for protection is probably a good idea.
yeah, well... low quality ( and expensive ) on most cases, but...
Quote from: Paul G on December 08, 2018, 10:03:19 AM
The roof that had vinyl is bare metal in some spots.
tipical... Plants saved paint just applying primer on roof when car got vinyl.
I hate to say it....but it's probably worth it, or close to it.
The last couple years, I have been seeing a lot of stupid pricing on 3rd gens.
$10k project 318 cars.......25K nice driver quality 318 cars. Having been into these cars for 30+ years now, it kind of makes my head spin
At least the Rallye is solid, will need minimal metal work....and by being BB 4 speed, is very desirable.
Quote from: twilt on December 08, 2018, 11:42:35 PM
I hate to say it....but it's probably worth it, or close to it.
The last couple years, I have been seeing a lot of stupid pricing on 3rd gens.
$10k project 318 cars.......25K nice driver quality 318 cars. Having been into these cars for 30+ years now, it kind of makes my head spin
At least the Rallye is solid, will need minimal metal work....and by being BB 4 speed, is very desirable.
Very true. Too bad it's not a early 3rd gen. (nacho jab. lol)
:rofl:
Got it for $5500 plus some additional ac parts. Picking up a uhaul trailer and dragging it home Tuesday.
Good score :cheers:
It gets complicated now. I am building a 505 RB for the 72 right now. It's getting Trick flow heads and mild cam designed to play nicely with the overdrive automatic in the 72 and still break 550 HP/600 TQ. That is going to be a small block to big block swap.
If the 73 has the original engine and it runs well..... Keep it as it is? If the 73 does not have the original engine.... the 505 is an easy drop in. I could change the cam spec to something more aggressive. Make more power!
Quote from: Paul G on December 09, 2018, 09:05:57 PM
If the 73 has the original engine and it runs well..... Keep it as it is? If the 73 does not have the original engine.... the 505 is an easy drop in. I could change the cam spec to something more aggressive. Make more power!
wouldn't make sense get the car then, you could make that on any other in any conditions.
No matter if is not matching number... keep the 400 it has at this moment. If you want, stroke it "on the cheap", nothing fancy, just regular stock parts and get the pistons, keep the stock look. That's its worth! Doesn't matter if your SB 72 gets more power, we are talking about the value of the car itself not the power in it
thats just my 2cents
Good buy! :cheers:
Quote from: Paul G on December 09, 2018, 07:43:28 PM
Got it for $5500 plus some additional ac parts. Picking up a uhaul trailer and dragging it home Tuesday.
I am so glad you bought it...!! I was almost ready to try and buy it myself cos it's just a damn cool '73 car. But another Mopar, another fuel2noise converter... and I'll face a divorce I reckon :-)
Congrats, mate!!
Tim
Quote from: 42TIM on December 11, 2018, 01:47:02 PM
Quote from: Paul G on December 09, 2018, 07:43:28 PM
Got it for $5500 plus some additional ac parts. Picking up a uhaul trailer and dragging it home Tuesday.
I am so glad you bought it...!! I was almost ready to try and buy it myself cos it's just a damn cool '73 car. But another Mopar, another fuel2noise converter... and I'll face a divorce I reckon :-)
Congrats, mate!!
Tim
Hey if you want I will sell. Make you a good deal. How's $7500 sound? :icon_smile_tongue:
Quote from: Paul G on December 11, 2018, 04:45:25 PM
Quote from: 42TIM on December 11, 2018, 01:47:02 PM
Quote from: Paul G on December 09, 2018, 07:43:28 PM
Got it for $5500 plus some additional ac parts. Picking up a uhaul trailer and dragging it home Tuesday.
I am so glad you bought it...!! I was almost ready to try and buy it myself cos it's just a damn cool '73 car. But another Mopar, another fuel2noise converter... and I'll face a divorce I reckon :-)
Congrats, mate!!
Tim
Hey if you want I will sell. Make you a good deal. How's $7500 sound? :icon_smile_tongue:
Huh ?
(https://miamidiario.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/133394316-nassau-bahamas-flipper-film-alimento-turquesa-1-890x395_c.jpg)
:smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol: :smilielol:
QuoteQuote from: 42TIM on Today at 12:47:02 PM
Quote from: Paul G on December 09, 2018, 06:43:28 PM
Got it for $5500 plus some additional ac parts. Picking up a uhaul trailer and dragging it home Tuesday.
I am so glad you bought it...!! I was almost ready to try and buy it myself cos it's just a damn cool '73 car. But another Mopar, another fuel2noise converter... and I'll face a divorce I reckon :-)
Congrats, mate!!
Tim
Hey if you want I will sell. Make you a good deal. How's $7500 sound? icon_smile_tongue
:lol: You should have asked for his wife's phone number in the same breath :lol:
Got the car home today, First thing was trying to get it started. No fuel up to the carb. The gas smells like vinegar vomit. Pulled off the $25 electric fuel pump by the tank and blew out the hoses. The pump would pump fuel on the bench, but not on the car. Might be loosing prime, or just a shitty $25 pump. Tomorrow I plan to pump the tank dry with the electric pump, then I can start with fresh fuel. Go get a stock mechanical pump and install that. Put a few gallons of fresh fuel and give it a go.
I pulled the dizzy out to see the block identifier pad. Guess what? Not the original motor. I think it is a 69 383. Bummer.
Some pics of the car in my garage.
(https://i.ibb.co/5xmJ2MB/20181211-130107.jpg) (https://ibb.co/VpRk3j2)
(https://i.ibb.co/gW5R7Wk/20181211-201914.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Wzb23zm)
(https://i.ibb.co/wY0SVt8/20181211-204400.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3krp2KV)
I have been calling this car "Rat Turd". You can see why.
(https://i.ibb.co/d6rQcYm/20181211-204436.jpg) (https://ibb.co/820jBZY)
"D" would be 1968 (383 HP for '68 would be Road Runner or Super Bee)
a partial VIN should be on the rear of the block by the oil sending unit
Quote from: 6bblgt on December 12, 2018, 12:28:47 AM
"D" would be 1968 (383 HP for '68 would be Road Runner or Super Bee)
a partial VIN should be on the rear of the block by the oil sending unit
Thanks.
well, if stock or correctly rebuilt somewhere in the past, it gets more power than a stock 400
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 12, 2018, 06:58:07 AM
well, if stock or correctly rebuilt somewhere in the past, it gets more power than a stock 400
True. But I am really thinking about dropping the 505 in there now. When it's done of course.
Hey if you want I will sell. Make you a good deal. How's $7500 sound? :icon_smile_tongue:[/quote]
Ha, you wanna see me divorced, huh? Keep that damn cool car, put your 505 in it and have a blast with that Rat Turd!! ;-) Oh, and keep us updated with loads of pictures.
Cheers
Tim
The car really needs the original shorty pistol grip shifter put back in it, along with a decent steering wheel.
I'm wondering... why you didn't check for the engine in it before buy it ?
Quote from: F8-4life on December 12, 2018, 01:33:33 PM
The car really needs the original shorty pistol grip shifter put back in it, along with a decent steering wheel.
In good time. The column needs to be rebuilt, and a new lock cylinder and a new starter switch block. Oh hell... why not new wiring too.
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 12, 2018, 01:58:01 PM
I'm wondering... why you didn't check for the engine in it before buy it ?
Because it wasnt realy a concern. Original engine would have been icing on the cake. I would have rebuilt much closer to stock having the matching engine. Now with the matching engine gone, I can resto mod the car.
with or without the original block :Twocents: restomod type modifications erase any value due to the car's rarity, where a "HOT ROD" drivetrain just makes the car "perform" better
:iagree:
I'd try to get at least a correct year or casting block, which shouldn't be that hard, no matter if building it a bitt hotter than stock, but keeping it stock look.
as usual just MHO
Be happy you got a 383 and not a 400. More HP and hard to hurt.
Be sure to post the VIN and date stamp from the '68 383 - might be someone on here looking for their original motor! Although, I thought '68s didn't have VINs?
Quote from: Wasco on December 13, 2018, 12:45:09 PM
.....I thought '68s didn't have VINs?
Yes '68s have VINs stamped on the bell housing near the oil sending unit.
Pic below is not mine, got it off the net.
Cool 3rd gen :icon_smile_cool:
Hopefully this thread will turn into a build thread?
Quote from: Paul G on December 09, 2018, 07:43:28 PM
Got it for $5500 plus some additional ac parts. Picking up a uhaul trailer and dragging it home Tuesday.
:2thumbs:
THAT is one neat f***in car Paul !
keep us posted when home, and of course more pics !
Been working on the car for several days now, It has a new fuel tank and a $25 inline fuel pump. The fuel pump push rod is mushroomed out on the cam side, it wont come down out of the block. Cant go back to a mechanical pump for now. Took down the electric pump and ran it on the bench, pushed out some goo and glop before it started pumping. Blew out the fuel lines, dropped the tank and emptied the "vinegar vomit smelling God awful swill" and cleaned it out. Did I say that old fuel smells awful! Looks like they put a new tank years ago, put in gas, and let it set till now.
MrMoparts.net is right here in town. They had a fuel sender gasket, new sock, battery tray and hold down on the shelf. Brought that stuff home last night along with a new battery. I can put the fuel system back together today. I took the Edelbrock carb off and put a good Holley 600 dual feed on it. I know that Holley carb is good. I am sure the Eddie is full of goo too.
Running to a friends house this morning and getting an oil pump priming tool, decided to change the oil and filter before I fire it up. I ran a new 14G wire back to the fuel pump. Going to install a relay feeding it good strong 12 volt power (inline fused) from the starter relay. If I have to switch to a better electric pump it will have good power.
Some things people do.... That old fuel pump wire was run under the car, spliced twice, and a very light gage, running off the AUX circuit in the fuse block.
I vacuumed out the interior, trunk, and wiped down the inside. Removed the back seat to climb in to the trunk and unbolt the trunk latch to get it open and fix the lock. It was so filthy I was getting myself dirty just working on it. Pushed it out of the garage and hosed down the under side, engine bay, wheel wells, and body of the car. Smells a little less like rats now. Or I am getting used to it, LOL.
I will take some pics of the under side today before I put the tank back on.
Quote from: ACUDANUT on December 12, 2018, 09:05:32 PM
Be happy you got a 383 and not a 400. More HP and hard to hurt.
sure... nice to get funds to get and build a more powerfull ( and correct ) 400 in it LOL
I've got a couple factory rallye 4 speed 400 cars. They are surprisingly pretty dang fast with the 3.55 performance axle package. Very rare cars for sure. I would have bought that car in a heartbeat too! Good find!
Got the fuel system back together today, finished up with wiring repairs and fuel pump relay install. Found the rear gears to be 3.23's and a sure grip. Changed the oil and started to prime the system. I am done for today. Got to get some fresh fuel, finish priming the engine oil system, disassemble and clean the distributor before re-install, put the plugs back in and reroute the ignition wires off the headers. Maybe it will run tomorrow? Some pics of the underside.
(https://i.ibb.co/NLkjz33/20181215-100417.jpg) (https://ibb.co/bryBn33)
(https://i.ibb.co/D8TJn4G/20181215-100431.jpg) (https://ibb.co/mXgj7Jv)
(https://i.ibb.co/tDymfTC/20181215-100453.jpg) (https://ibb.co/YhvR9Fj)
(https://i.ibb.co/j6DMqFs/20181215-100505.jpg) (https://ibb.co/SsBnHpG)
(https://i.ibb.co/DbyhXzx/20181215-100515.jpg) (https://ibb.co/Mh4rTZY)
(https://i.ibb.co/KqVYx9J/20181215-100525.jpg) (https://ibb.co/wWpThKf)
(https://i.ibb.co/d6fqWyt/20181215-100538.jpg) (https://ibb.co/5v1yMVk)
(https://i.ibb.co/fQWRQdZ/20181215-100544.jpg) (https://ibb.co/BwJDw2v)
The bones on that car are in great shape, excellent candidate for whatever you decide.
Easily worth what you paid.... and then some !
Thanks for sharing and please keep us posted.
Finally got the car running today. Found so many wiring issues it's not funny. The wiring is crap and will be replaced, repairs made were just to make it run. Had to disassemble the distributor, clean it out, free up the advance, and lubricate it. Works good now. Prelubed the engine while the dizzy was out, went over the plugs and wires, plugs 3 and 5 were a real bitch getting in and out around the header pipe, the plugs and wires are in really good shape. The cheap generic electric fuel pump works much better running on a relay. I can hear it running now, couldn't before the relay install. Here is a video of the car.
https://youtu.be/KUTLeCC8xjs
Quote from: VegasCharger on December 14, 2018, 12:58:30 AM
Quote from: Wasco on December 13, 2018, 12:45:09 PM
.....I thought '68s didn't have VINs?
Yes '68s have VINs stamped on the bell housing near the oil sending unit.
Pic below is not mine, got it off the net.
Quote from: Wasco on December 13, 2018, 12:45:09 PM
Be sure to post the VIN and date stamp from the '68 383 - might be someone on here looking for their original motor! Although, I thought '68s didn't have VINs?
Not all 68 had the vin stamping on the block, looks like only HP engines got stamped from what I have seen
Sounds good !!.. I see I am not the only one who believes in keeping the coil away from the engine heat. That is a trade make of mine, on all my Mopars. :cheers:
The Charger is running but the battery was not charging. Bad alternator or voltage regulator? I decided to make a little video of how to test the alternator.
https://youtu.be/FWQaNa1KqiI
Just in case!
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F123475458464
Althought compressor brackets seems to be for Small block
I just placed an order at Classic Industries. Grill and headlight surrounds, some clutch linkage rebuild parts, seat belts, door hinge rebuild kits, plus more. A $2000 bill for under $1600. Nice up to 40% off sale going on today only. My savings was around 20%
They had parchment A piller trim, but on back order. Mine are crumbling every time I touch them. Got new ignition and door cylinders with new keys too.
Picked this up last night for $195 shipped. I need the uncut surround, all my gauges work.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/71-74-Dodge-Plymouth-B-Body-rallye-dash-cluster-120-Mph-speedometer-No-Tach-/173696951073?ul_noapp=true&nma=true&si=rglu%252FWz6i0KCxMSM2yW2OGLs7GI%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/Dh0AAOSwdzhcCeJl/s-l1600.jpg)
I just noticed your gage bezel has the lights and wipers small indicators next to the switches. I can't remember if this was only for a 74 Charger Rallye dash or if the 73 also used this bezel. Good deal on the dash gages anyway.
Terry
The "iconed" bezels are just 74 for Rallye and standard clusters.
Also high beams indicator on speedo changed from red to blue on 74
If your cluster got the bezel cut, then also the housing, to hold the radio by the knobs. If your cluster is clock or tach, is diff housing than the one you got
Quote from: Paul G on December 25, 2018, 12:19:35 PM
They had parchment A piller trim, but on back order.
You will be dissapointed with them
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2591591/a-look-at-classic-industries-71-74-b-body-a-pillar-molding.html#Post2591591
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 25, 2018, 03:01:21 PM
If your cluster got the bezel cut, then also the housing, to hold the radio by the knobs. If your cluster is clock or tach, is diff housing than the one you got
Well that sucks.
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 25, 2018, 03:09:09 PM
Quote from: Paul G on December 25, 2018, 12:19:35 PM
They had parchment A piller trim, but on back order.
You will be dissapointed with them
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/2591591/a-look-at-classic-industries-71-74-b-body-a-pillar-molding.html#Post2591591
Might cancel them then. Mine are useless, unrepairable. Might have to watch for ebay used.
Just a idea....cover the old one with fiberglass resin and cloth tape. Sand it and see how it looks.
I think i have an uncut housing around for clock/tach if is the one you need. Could be yours paying for shipping and a hair more I guess.
EDITING
Fresh paint, some better lenses and voila... but uncut
(https://i.postimg.cc/nL2Ccx7L/IMG-7536.jpg)
Which Rallye dash setup do you have? Posting a photo of what you have can help us identify what you need whether its the tachometer or gauge setup.
Terry
Yeap, the dash pic posted is not clear about that, just visible the cut bezel and speedo LOL.
It should be tach, being 4 speed I guess
EDITING!
Looking closelly I can see the dual small meters lettering, so is clock/tach cluster
And with more detail, I can't see the clock setting knob shaft, and I can see the central white circle outline tachs got, so must be tach
You've got great eyesight Nacho. My 66 year old eyes struggle to see the finer details. Hopefully, he can get by with just an uncut dash bezel
Terry
The car is not accessible right now for a pic. It is a speedo, tach, and two dual gauges.
What a find! I love it and I am not a big fan of 3rd gen Chargers. Find another solid four speed big block anything Mopar for 5500. What a steal!! Good job.
Please, please, if you think of selling this thing, PM me!
Agree with Vegas Nick. Awesome score. :coolgleamA:
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 25, 2018, 03:01:21 PM
If your cluster got the bezel cut, then also the housing, to hold the radio by the knobs. If your cluster is clock or tach, is diff housing than the one you got
Here is a pic of the dash cluster. The one I bought on Ebay has the headlight and wiper indications different than this original one. All the gauges on this one work now.
(https://i.ibb.co/82zdXNS/20181228-203512.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q90Wx7P)
yes, the switches indicators of the ebay ones are just 74. Doesn't affect on anything aside just the look, but they will light up same as the lettering on the 73. The bigger deal is that your cluster wasn't cut just on the bezel but also here ( attached ) and the housing of the one you got is diff, won't work with your setup. It can be modified thought.
the cluster you'll get will have this look on housing ( attached )
you can open the hole for the tach, and the provisions for the double meter gauges are still there on cast. You can compare both are casted the same to accept both setups, just the tach/clock opening being cut or not and the seats for the gauges sealed or not.
Otherwise, here is a housing what will work ( more less the same I think could be mine getting the shipping quote ), which in any case will make you can get the bezel from the cluster you got, this housing and resell the rest of the cluster you got previouslly
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-1974-CHARGER-GTX-ROAD-RUNNER-CLUSTER-HOUSING-GAUGE-CARRIER-RALLY-DASH/283229001396?fits=Year%3A1973%7CModel%3ACharger%7CMake%3ADodge&hash=item41f1c396b4:g:hz8AAOSwyiFb0qg2:rk:58:pf:0
( it seems some bulb lenses are melted thought )
How rare/valuable is the one I have coming that does not have the tach/clock? I would consider cutting the hole for the tach, but if it is very rare, difficult to find an original, I would not like cutting it
Is the basic rallye setup allmost every Rallye got, allong with 72s Toppers and "plain" Bees and R/Ts. Clock setups used to be on SEs with Brougham package ( Clock is part of the brougham package ) but not exclusive thought since Rallyes could get that too without being Brougham package, and Tachs were in all 4 speeds and have seen them also on some HiPo autos... normally everyone upgrades to the Clock/Tach, and thats the reason why clock/tachs are more expensive. Around 4 or 5 years ago the prices rates for them as I had found were
basic: 130-180
Clock: 240-300
Tach: 350-450 and that's just because the tach itself no matter if not working because inners can be upgraded, but is still exactly the same cluster than the clock.
now the rates must be proportionally the same but higher due they are being harder to come by uncut with years
I can't recall if the housing got casted the area to be cut, but if not, will need to get a template for that. The housing got also the protusions ( they are visble there ) to the tach/clock holding screws what will need to be drilled too.
Some ppl with nice and uncut basic rallye cluster tries to get upgraded to the clock/tach setup and will need just the housing and double meter gauges setup, since Speedo can be the same and tach can be bought reproduced ( 8K thought ). The market I'm trying to reach with my housing is for those because I have also the gauges and lenses mask. I just have missed actually the ammeter, althought have an ammeter face if somebody wants to make the volt conversion and use the face for his build.
I got luck on the cluster I bought around 8 years ago, from a 71 ( 150 miles ), because it was even with Knobs ( wiper knob is not easy to come by ) in $150 with clock... got the plus the wiper switch was variable speed!!!
Later found the correct 74 bezel.
5 years later found locally a 240 kmh speedo ( full cluster actually on the cheap, but not nice conditions, is the housing and parts I have extra ) and after some damages, fixings and stuff, now my car will be with kilo speedo....
to be able to use the variable speed switch, just had to get a 71 harness donor to use the plugs, since wiring is the same... just prongs and plugs disposition changes between 71 and 72/74 because 71s are larger ( 72/74 was not variable option, but 3 speed )
Both my 73 rallye 4 speed and my 74 rallye 4 speed have the gauges instead of a clock or tach from the factory.
Well, it seems not every 4 speeds got the tach, but it uses to be.
So.... The instrument cluster I bought on Ebay came today. Delivered by Fedex. This is what came out of the box.
(https://i.ibb.co/QYpB34q/20190102-144350.jpg) (https://ibb.co/zPQcTzL)
The broken piece still in the box or was it busted before you bought it and was never told ??
The pieces were inside the wrapping. I contacted the seller, he has another one, he is deciding how to proceed. Claim against Fedex, or have me send this one back and send me the other one, Or just send me the outer bezel.
Oh yes I know FEDEX... I sold NOS 69 Coronet Tail light lenses here shipped to Canada and one of them arrived cracked and one gasket missed... it was a REAL headache try to get the insurance ( it took around 6 months ) and never got satisfied because the money exchange rate! actually got half of its real value! My suspect was on customs. They should drop the lense somehow and missed the gasket when inspecting
Nacho, remember 73-74's could no faster than 120. On 71-72 it went up to 150mph. :nana:
Quote from: ACUDANUT on January 03, 2019, 07:32:00 PM
Nacho, remember 73-74's could no faster than 120. On 71-72 it went up to 150mph. :nana:
That's mean :-)
Usually UPS damages my stuff; looks like seller should have used a stiffer cardboard box than that. I would ask for better packaging for the next one.
Quote from: 42TIM on January 04, 2019, 11:21:53 AM
Quote from: ACUDANUT on January 03, 2019, 07:32:00 PM
Nacho, remember 73-74's could no faster than 120. On 71-72 it went up to 150mph. :nana:
That's mean :-)
naaah, som ppl just needs too talk too much! LOL
tell that to Petty :nana:
( my 74 reads 240!!!! :nana: )
(https://scontent-mia3-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/22089253_10155083679413753_8897793110053223498_n.jpg?_nc_cat=108&_nc_ht=scontent-mia3-2.xx&oh=ca3258b5b869ee4c9d37e0d61030247a&oe=5CC98BD7)