Hi
1968 charger R/T, 505 Stroked 440.
There are many vendors selling and or manufacturing radiators.
They provide some information about their design but not enough.
There are 2 core, 3 core, and 4 core. Tube sizes vary between 5/8" to more than 1".
They never discuss number of tubes/core, number and size of fins, etc.
Some claim that they will cool 700 to 900 HP.
I have read discussions that claim a 2-core with 1"+ diameter tubes will out cool 3 and 4 core units, but no other design information. It appears that, the more cores, the smaller the tubes.
Then there is the question of using electric fans.
I am at a loss and not sure which way to turn. I would appreciate learning what others know about this subject. I would also appreciation recommendations.
Thank You
John
Many like this: http://www.speedcooling.com/26-Big-Block-Mopar-Radiator.html
Quote from: b5blue on May 25, 2020, 05:14:31 AM
Many like this: http://www.speedcooling.com/26-Big-Block-Mopar-Radiator.html
I have that rig with the dual fans, but I'm in Houston and have AC. I will need to trim some of the fan case to clear the nose of the water pump pulley.
http://www.speedcooling.com/26-Big-Block-Mopar-Radiator-Dual-Fans.html
https://wizardcooling.com/1966-1969-26-b-b-mopar-applications-aluminum-radiator-mechanical-fan-shroud/
I got this a handful of years ago with 1.25 in tubes, works well but now I would go with the same radiator but with dual electric fan setup.
Don't get caught up in all the 2 3 4 row BS. The fact is you only have so much width, for example if you have a width of roughly 2.5" then you can use 2 rows of 1.25" tube or 3 rows of 3/4" tube or 4 rows of 5/8" tubes. Generally an aluminium radiator with 2 rows of 1" tubes works good when combined with good air flow at idle, and they are cheap. The air flow is the key, stuff that up and no matter what radiator you fit on a BB mopar it's gunna over heat. Copper/brass radiators can't use tubes as big as aluminium as the material does not have the same strength so a smaller tube is used, generally 1/2" although they do work well albeit expensive. The only way to add more cooling for a copper/brass radiator for a given size is to add more rows. A thicker radiator can be more difficult to remove the heat from the core - hence the need for good air flow. Most aluminium radiators I have seen have tubes spaced at 3/8", this seems to be a good distance to enable a maximum amount of tubes for a given size and enough room for air to pass through. So in a nut shell a aluminium radiator with two rows of 1" tubes on 3/8" spacing is a good bet. If you have the extra cash the radiator Comet suggested is a great choice.
I will add one thing. Thick radiator and electric fans uses up the space in front of the engine really fast. Like I said, I will have to trim the plastic around my fans to get a fit.
I have an aluminum version of the factory 22" 4 core radiator behind my radical 426 with a filled block and it does not overheat in 100 degree summer heat. Rock steady at 160.
https://youtu.be/k6kKyOONkUY
Most cars wont have a problem at speed, the issue is normally always at idle in stopped or 5mph traffic. If you can do that for an hour on a hot day and it keeps it's cool, you know you have it sorted. Just to add, I had a 22" radiator before I fitted up a 26" due to needing a support panel change. The 22 worked fine.
FWIW, I have the below linked radiator and Jegs dual fans on my car with no issues. Info in my build thread in my signature.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-72-Mopar-B-E-Body-Black-Aluminum-26-Radiator-Roadrunner-Challenger-Cuda/351583436713?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3D8519d44956eb425da917e4bdf05c4cb2%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D124198609242%26itm%3D351583436713%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3A2f038e2b-9fcf-11ea-af7f-74dbd180cdda%7Cparentrq%3A544db53e1720a9c5731c809affff6598%7Ciid%3A1
This thing was very nicely built, with a very nice price, which is the only reason I keep recommending it. And their feedback/reviews on it are 100% positive.
That being said, mine never got hot before, with a flex fan with no clutch either...... I only went to electrics since I had them on the shelf for some reason, and I already had Sniper EFI, which had hi/low triggers already. If I was going carbed, I would use a mechanical fan with a clutch and the factory shroud. Not sure what the cost of those parts would ring up, however. And my car didn't come with the original fan.
Thank You
It appears that most are satisfied with what they have. I am still not ready to commit. I am hoping for more data.
John
What sort of data are you looking for?
I appreciate your discussion of radiators - justcruisin
darbgnik - I looked at the link you posted and they talk about rows and tube size but don't state what they use. I looked at your build and it appears the engine is as you bought the car. I was hoping not to need electric fans??
More brands in use.
How do they do without electric fans.
How well do they fit - modifications required. They all don't fit out of the box.
Any tech data on fabrication. Limited information even on their websites.
There are many brands out there, only a few were referenced here. All manufacturers make big claims.
In general, looking for a warm fuzzy feeling of confidence and some form on consensus among members.
I look at reviews on various manufacturers and they often have many complaints with poor support.
A/C or non A/C?
22" or 26" preferred?
26" AC
OK, here is what I know from mine and friends experience - the speed cooling radiator referenced in here fitted and worked well and had good construction, I have used both the 22" and 26" radiators from Champion, they both preformed well and were also constructed well, however, both the Champion radiators did not accept the factory shroud, I had to modify the 26" to fit and I had to fab up a shroud for the 22 as there was no way the shroud would work, and they are not very attractive, I know of one guy who had a bad one that leaked. I have used a factory 2 row copper/brass radiator and it did not cool as well as the others on a built 440. I have a factory 22" radiator on a stock 313 poly and it has never over heated.
I have had minimal experience with electric fans as a primary source of air in a classic car/hot rod situation although I do have one as an auxiliary on the front of my Charger. I have seen plenty used and seem to do the job and certainly work in new cars.
Air flow at idle is what you want, in my experience a 19" stainless flex fan works best, down side is that some say they can spit a blade, I have one on my Charger and a friend has had one on his 400 chevy for 6 years - no problems, although I wouldn't use one at the track. The 19" will work with a 26" shroud but the positioning needs to be close to center and it pays to have some catch bolts in your drivers side engine mount or a strap.
I have bought two hayden fan clutches recently, both leaked and sprayed silicon in my engine bay, hence the flex fan. Both were the standard length clutches, I have used the newer shorter clutch recently and it was fine. My guess is old stock.
As far as construction goes, I don't know that anyone is gluing tanks to the core, but they should be tig welded. The core should have tubes on 3/8 spacings, most cores are probably made in the same factory.
IMO either of the radiators mentioned here by others would be good, the wizzard radiator would be my pic if I wasn't worried about the cost. IMO also, you need to be more concerned with air flow at idle.
This is my set up - 26" Champion radiator with factory shroud, 19" stainless flex fan, 17" derale electric fan on the front with a 190 degree thermo switch and manual override switch.
justcruisin - Thank you for the info. t appears that you are satisfied with the Champion even though the shroud was a problem.
The speed cooling radiator had 2 references. green69rt had an issue having to cut away a portion of the shroud that bumped into the water pump.
The wizzard may be too expensive.
I haven't searches back but if I remember I have read posts where other radiators, such as Griffin and others, were chosen but they also were expensive.
Thank you again
John
Quote from: john108 on May 29, 2020, 02:04:41 PM
I appreciate your discussion of radiators - justcruisin
darbgnik - I looked at the link you posted and they talk about rows and tube size but don't state what they use. I looked at your build and it appears the engine is as you bought the car. I was hoping not to need electric fans??
More brands in use.
How do they do without electric fans.
How well do they fit - modifications required. They all don't fit out of the box.
Any tech data on fabrication. Limited information even on their websites.
There are many brands out there, only a few were referenced here. All manufacturers make big claims.
In general, looking for a warm fuzzy feeling of confidence and some form on consensus among members.
I look at reviews on various manufacturers and they often have many complaints with poor support.
I think that was my point. I doubt you do need electric fans. As I said, if I didn't have EFI, which already comes with triggers for the electric fans, plus actually having the fans already, I would not have installed them. I only did the install, after I found them on the shelf, after already installing EFI. Plus, the car came with a flex fan with a spacer, which I've never liked the looks of...
If I still had a carb, and didn't have the electric fans already, they wouldn't be installed. I would have eventually chucked the flex fan in favor of the factory fan and clutch. Reason being, is I also own a Hummer H1, and by default have a lot of knowledge on mechanical fans vs electrics. Long story short, Hummers overheat on the highway over their 55 mph designed HMMWV top speed when they encounter any grade in warm weather. Much testing and money was spent in search of solutions, with the result always reverting back to a proper functioning (factory installed)mechanical fan. No electric fans can move nearly as much air. Not as much of a problem on most normal cars with vertical radiators. But shortcomings of electric fans rear their head when the radiators are on a 45 degree angle.
I guess what I am trying to say is that electric fans are not a cooling upgrade. Maybe a performance upgrade, a low speed A/C performance upgrade, and maybe even a packaging upgrade in some cases, but never a cooling upgrade.....
I understand what you are saying. I don't remember my Charger, with the original 440 engine ever overheating. We live in the Sacramento, CA area which has relatively hot summers. But now with 175 more HP, I am concerned. Idling in traffic can be a killer. Electric fans would help there. On the highway, probably not.
Thank You,
John
John,
The ECP with 2 1in tubes looks like a great choice. Charlie (CDR) is in Texas and has A/C on his car with a 500in stroker and his runs nice and cool....with that radiator. :2thumbs:
Ron
Ron
From what I understand, his combination is using that $250 radiator and added a $500 Fan.
Looks good to me and may be the direction I am considering. Another member has also bought the same 2 components.
John
John,
Mine has a 1in tube dual pass rad with over 700hp and it cools fine in the summer heat. We get the odd 100* day up here as well. I didn't have room for a mechanical fan so I used a single pusher fan and it works great.
I would try first with a factory 7 blade mechanical fan and shroud mounted to the ECP radiator before going to a high dollar electric fan setup. The other option would be to add a pusher fan on the front of the rad to help with low speed cooling when the car is sitting in traffic. ;)
Ron
im with ron, IF you can fit the mechanical fan, run it. They traditionally move more air at idle then a run of the mill electric. Use the electric as supplemental airflow.
Sounds Good.
Two very knowledgeable guys in agreement. A good place to start.
Thank You,
John
Quote from: firefighter3931 on May 31, 2020, 02:35:00 PM
John,
Mine has a 1in tube dual pass rad with over 700hp and it cools fine in the summer heat. We get the odd 100* day up here as well. I didn't have room for a mechanical fan so I used a single pusher fan and it works great.
I would try first with a factory 7 blade mechanical fan and shroud mounted to the ECP radiator before going to a high dollar electric fan setup. The other option would be to add a pusher fan on the front of the rad to help with low speed cooling when the car is sitting in traffic. ;)
Ron
^^^^^^^
Before the electric fan I used the 1818 Flexalite 7 blade Mechanical fan & a fan shroud with the ECP radiator, ran COOL 180ish all day long A/C on & outside temps over 100deg, 512cid 68 Charger, worked awesome.
I was going to delete my clutch fan and get this brushless fan package and built in shroud. I already have this radiator with the 1.25 inch tubes and the mechanical fan shroud so I got to call about the new fan/ shroud package.
https://wizardcooling.com/1966-1969-26-b-b-mopar-applications-aluminum-radiator-w-brushless-fan-package/
Thanks CDR - Mitch told me about what he is doing and that you helped him.
Comet_666 - Not the cheapest, 42% of what I payed for my Charger. Thank you.
There are other radiators in that price range. You probably get what you pay for.
Unfortunately, I have limited first hand knowledge and considering middle of the road.
Not the cheapest, not the best.
John
I get it lol. I paid $2000 for mine in 92
Not to hijack this thread or anything but how far away from the radiator should the fan be?
Quote from: comet_666 on June 01, 2020, 12:08:02 PM
Not to hijack this thread or anything but how far away from the radiator should the fan be?
it has more to do with the location in the shroud, I like the fan to be into the shroud 3/4 in or a little more ,,,just inside. hope I made that clear in my description
Quote from: cdr on June 01, 2020, 12:20:29 PM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 01, 2020, 12:08:02 PM
Not to hijack this thread or anything but how far away from the radiator should the fan be?
it has more to do with the location in the shroud, I like the fan to be into the shroud 3/4 in or a little more ,,,just inside. hope I made that clear in my description
Makes sense to me.
Here is a pic I just snapped, however because the car is running warmer than I like when its hot I am going to replace clutch fan with the standard fan that was in it before and see if that helps. I may need to space the hell out of it though...
Pretty sure the smashed fins aren't helping either...
Quote from: comet_666 on June 01, 2020, 12:35:48 PM
Quote from: cdr on June 01, 2020, 12:20:29 PM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 01, 2020, 12:08:02 PM
Not to hijack this thread or anything but how far away from the radiator should the fan be?
it has more to do with the location in the shroud, I like the fan to be into the shroud 3/4 in or a little more ,,,just inside. hope I made that clear in my description
Makes sense to me.
Here is a pic I just snapped, however because the car is running warmer than I like when its hot I am going to replace clutch fan with the standard fan that was in it before and see if that helps. I may need to space the hell out of it though...
for my application I had to use the mechanical fan, the HD fan clutch set up would not keep my car cool enough, I moved the spring position in the clutch as a test & then it ran cool, so I then went with a 1818 direct fan & that worked great.
A couple more things, I have the ac pulleys, so that overdrives the fan speed, also, that is one of the reasons I went to the expensive electric fans, 7k rpm shift points was pushing the limits of safety on the 8k rpm limit of the fan blade,
This is the fan I am going to put on, I may have messed with this last year and it sat too far out from the radiator/shroud for my taste.
No # stamped on it but it has the pentastar and a B on it.
Quote from: comet_666 on June 01, 2020, 01:08:03 PM
This is the fan I am going to put on, I may have messed with this last year and it sat too far out from the radiator/shroud for my taste.
No # stamped on it but it has the pentastar and a B on it.
it is worth a try :)
Quote from: cdr on June 01, 2020, 01:06:11 PM
A couple more things, I have the ac pulleys, so that overdrives the fan speed, also, that is one of the reasons I went to the expensive electric fans, 7k rpm shift points was pushing the limits of safety on the 8k rpm limit of the fan blade,
I have single groove 50 year old pulleys on mine lol
I had that same fan on mine a while back, shifts plenty of air but they are heavy. Only reason I changed is because like you I only had a single V belt set up and the belt would always squeak. I imagine a twin belt set up would be better.
Quote from: justcruisin on June 01, 2020, 03:27:53 PM
I had that same fan on mine a while back, shifts plenty of air but they are heavy. Only reason I changed is because like you I only had a single V belt set up and the belt would always squeak. I imagine a twin belt set up would be better.
Yah i found it today and was shocked at how heavy it was, than as I read your post I also remembered the belt squeak years ago...
So what fan should I look into getting? I know CDR said he was running an 1818 but you must have some sort of spacer there to bolt it to?
Quote from: comet_666 on June 01, 2020, 07:22:44 PM
Quote from: justcruisin on June 01, 2020, 03:27:53 PM
I had that same fan on mine a while back, shifts plenty of air but they are heavy. Only reason I changed is because like you I only had a single V belt set up and the belt would always squeak. I imagine a twin belt set up would be better.
Yah i found it today and was shocked at how heavy it was, than as I read your post I also remembered the belt squeak years ago...
So what fan should I look into getting? I know CDR said he was running an 1818 but you must have some sort of spacer there to bolt it to?
the 1818 is heavy & the spacer I ran was about 1 1/4 long IIRC
Quote from: cdr on June 01, 2020, 01:06:11 PM
A couple more things, I have the ac pulleys, so that overdrives the fan speed, also, that is one of the reasons I went to the expensive electric fans, 7k rpm shift points was pushing the limits of safety on the 8k rpm limit of the fan blade,
Same here. I was told by people watching from the far end of the track that my mechanical fan sounded like a p51 mustang dive bombing at 7500 rpm.
I just watched Season 2 Episode 20 of engine masters on motortrendondemand.com and they had a fan shootout
They tested a clutch fan, plastic fan, flex fan and a stock steel fan
Clutch fan ate the least HP/TQ while the plastic and stock steel fan took almost 30HP away!
Quote from: comet_666 on June 01, 2020, 09:39:43 PM
I just watched Season 2 Episode 20 of engine masters on motortrendondemand.com and they had a fan shootout
They tested a clutch fan, plastic fan, flex fan and a stock steel fan
Clutch fan ate the least HP/TQ while the plastic and stock steel fan took almost 30HP away!
Yep BUT they did not test one like the 1818, my car ran the same time at the track with electric or 1818 fan, the 1818 flatens out at rpm
I am running the derale 17019, its a 19" fan. It shifts some air, it does squeak the belt on a fast rev out of gear. I wouldn't call it light but I find it good. The 19" might not work in all cases, it is close on mine. On the odd occasion I go to the track I remove the mechanical fan as the electric on the front seems to cope in that situation. As far as a HP drag, I would rather have something that pulls good air and give up a few pony's and maybe a little mileage on the street.
I'm on the fence about this. Either I put the old steel 7 blade on and see how it works or keep the clutch fan on and get a electric pusher fan.
I use the original spacer that goes with the 7 blade factory fan. I think it is about 1 5/8" - 1 3/4". I like it better than the aftermarket spacers as it is solid with flat ends which provide a good mating surface.
No harm in trying it if you have it.
Quote from: justcruisin on June 01, 2020, 10:33:19 PM
I use the original spacer that goes with the 7 blade factory fan. I think it is about 1 5/8" - 1 3/4". I like it better than the aftermarket spacers as it is solid with flat ends which provide a good mating surface.
My fan has a spacer sort of built onto it. Not sure if its stock or what it is from.
I had a flex fan, same as CDR, although I can't remember the number on it. It also had a spacer holding it off the pulley and barely poking inside the plane of the shroud. And like I said, it worked very well. If I were you, I'd go that route, if you don't like how the clutch fan treats you. If you use a mechanical fan that is not a flex fan, you must use a clutch.
Remember the fan should not be buried inside the shroud either. Aiming for halfway in is a good starting point.
I looked at my original hardware.
Doing the math, I calculated that my original thermal fan had a clearance between the leading edge of the fan blade and the core surface of the radiator.
It came out to be 1 inch.
Distance to the radiator is not critical, however, 1" is safe and about as close as you want to go. The engine will move forward in a hard braking situation.
Just found the part # of the fan I have, its 46237. I swapped it in this afternoon and went for a drive around the neighborhood a few times, maybe 4 or 5 miles under 45 MPH. Its 73 degrees here today and when I pulled in the garage temp read 189 which is even hotter than usual. So now I am really stumped.
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 04:26:32 PM
Just found the part # of the fan I have, its 46237. I swapped it in this afternoon and went for a drive around the neighborhood a few times, maybe 4 or 5 miles under 45 MPH. Its 73 degrees here today and when I pulled in the garage temp read 189 which is even hotter than usual. So now I am really stumped.
Drive it longer & see what it does.
There is no way that fan will pull less air than a clutch fan. What thermostat do you use. Under what conditions are you having a problem.
I took a longer test drive, a normal route I take by the lake, it ran a few degrees hotter than normal as I was driving it , when I would stop at a light it would creep up 5 or 6 degrees, then go back down 3 or 4 degrees. Pulled into store parking lot at it was almost 190, sat a long light 197, drove home and it was 188 when i pulled in garage. Definately running hotter than it was. Difference I see are it sits about an inch further away from the radiator.
I'm actually shocked, I thought it was going to run 180 topps. It was only 70 when I was out driving too.
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 07:55:42 PM
I took a longer test drive, a normal route I take by the lake, it ran a few degrees hotter than normal as I was driving it , when I would stop at a light it would creep up 5 or 6 degrees, then go back down 3 or 4 degrees. Pulled into store parking lot at it was almost 190, sat a long light 197, drove home and it was 188 when i pulled in garage. Definately running hotter than it was. Difference I see are it sits about an inch further away from the radiator.
I'm actually shocked, I thought it was going to run 180 topps. It was only 70 when I was out driving too.
I still say get the 1818 & hope
I have quite alot (50ish) of bent fins on the radiator, I tried to open them up as best I could today, some right smack in the middle on the engine side are pretty crushed shut. I'm sure it doesn't help but not sure how much it is hurting it either.
Quote from: justcruisin on June 02, 2020, 07:32:29 PM
There is no way that fan will pull less air than a clutch fan. What thermostat do you use. Under what conditions are you having a problem.
Not sure what thermostat I use TBH but when I brought it out of the garage this spring I let it idle in driveway to make sure it opened at 180, and it did and droped about 15 degrees.
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 08:10:12 PM
Quote from: justcruisin on June 02, 2020, 07:32:29 PM
There is no way that fan will pull less air than a clutch fan. What thermostat do you use. Under what conditions are you having a problem.
Not sure what thermostat I use TBH but when I brought it out of the garage this spring I let it idle in driveway to make sure it opened at 180, and it did and droped about 15 degrees.
If it is idling at 165 as stated, but 190 driving, you either have a collapsing hose at rpm, or a timing/ lean condition most likely.
I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 09:19:29 PM
I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185
In that case, remember that a "180" thermostat does not mean that the car runs at 180. That number's sole purpose is to identify the thermostats BEGINNING opening temperature, not running temperature. Stats are not an on-off switch. From that point it takes roughly 20 degrees additonal temperature to reach full open flow. So a 180 stock stat operating at 190-195 on a hot day is normal and acceptable. If you want it to run at 180, try a high flow 180 or a stock 160.
Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on June 03, 2020, 06:26:07 AM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 09:19:29 PM
I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185
In that case, remember that a "180" thermostat does not mean that the car runs at 180. That number's sole purpose is to identify the thermostats BEGINNING opening temperature, not running temperature. Stats are not an on-off switch. From that point it takes roughly 20 degrees additonal temperature to reach full open flow. So a 180 stock stat operating at 190-195 on a hot day is normal and acceptable. If you want it to run at 180, try a high flow 180 or a stock 160.
I knew the part about opening slowly but not the rest. Maybe I should then look into a high flow? I also noticed that my lower rad spring has moved away from the inlet to the motor and now resides almost into the radiator.
For a 10 dollar part and 20 minute job, it is worth it to see if there is a change or not. If there is no change and it is running hot at speeds over 25 mph, the fan is not the problem. If it runs at 180 to 185 at speed and gets hot at low speeds, airflow is the problem.
Just ordered
Milodon 16406 - High-Flow 180 thermostat.
And your right, its def worth a shot.
Quote from: comet_666 on June 03, 2020, 07:50:19 AM
Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on June 03, 2020, 06:26:07 AM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 02, 2020, 09:19:29 PM
I should add once it got to 165 ish it rose back up to normal operating temp whch for that car cruising around is 180 - 185
In that case, remember that a "180" thermostat does not mean that the car runs at 180. That number's sole purpose is to identify the thermostats BEGINNING opening temperature, not running temperature. Stats are not an on-off switch. From that point it takes roughly 20 degrees additonal temperature to reach full open flow. So a 180 stock stat operating at 190-195 on a hot day is normal and acceptable. If you want it to run at 180, try a high flow 180 or a stock 160.
I knew the part about opening slowly but not the rest. Maybe I should then look into a high flow? I also noticed that my lower rad spring has moved away from the inlet to the motor and now resides almost into the radiator.
Is there a vendor for that lower radiator hose spring??
I have not found one, I think I may wind up a thin coat hanger and add it as a second spring.
I found these but it looks like they need modification to make them work right. What's the "AN" stuff mean?
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hose-inner-support-springs
The lower radiator (anti-collapse?) spring is available
from one of the Muskrat suppliers.
Can't remember the name yet, old age!
Joe
https://www.cjponyparts.com/lower-radiator-hose-spring-stainless-steel-small-block-mustang-1965-1973/p/HW769/
Quote from: green69rt on June 03, 2020, 12:40:01 PM
I found these but it looks like they need modification to make them work right. What's the "AN" stuff mean?
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/hose-inner-support-springs
AN stands for army navy, but it is basicly the size designation for hoses. -6 is basicly 3/8, -8 is 1/2 etc.
Quote from: comet_666 on June 03, 2020, 12:10:42 PM
I have not found one, I think I may wind up a thin coat hanger and add it as a second spring.
Make sure to use stainless steel, better yet buy a stainless steel spring.
Thanks B5, I would have remembered in a couple of days.....
Joe
:2thumbs:
I ordered that spring by the way just waiting on that and the thermostat before I dig into it, so thank you for posting that lol.
I took it out just now for a drive, its 70 and not humid here today. It took probably 3 miles at around 2000rpm or so before it even got to 180, drove around 178-183 the whole time. I hit a few lights climbs up to 185-186. So it seems like it is fine while driving but when it starts going up it does not seem to have the ability to go back down in temp. It if was 90 out it is worse.
I used this one: https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/milodon/part-type/thermostats-mechanical/make/dodge/engine-size/7-2l-440
This weekend I swapped out the thermostat and coolant, replaced the lower rad hose spring and today I went for a drive.
its 68 and not humid, it ran cooler, hit a few lights an I think the most it went up to was 187, then when I was moving again it went back down to 183 by the time I pulled in the driveway. When I was up by the lake it was running at 177. I drove it for around 45 min or so, all cruising, no expressway.
Does that seem normal? I can see if I was stuck in traffic it would climb and climb and climb.
Sounds pretty normal, I use the same thermostat and it runs at 170 at speed, on a hot day it will come up to 190 in stop go crawling traffic. If I didn't have an electric on the front for an assist it would go higher but the electric keeps it at 190.
What pusher fans do you guys recommend?
I use the Derale 18217, I have it mounted on the radiator panel instead of direct to the radiator. The rainbow fan has been mentioned quite a bit on here, there was a thread going that the two seemed the same, I gave some info on current draw for the Derale but there was no first hand info presented on the Rainbow fan, does look to be the same from pictures. They are around the same price, I think the Rainbow fan is a little more, if you are going to fit one up maybe get the Rainbow and put an amp meter on it to see it's current draw so we know for sure.
Just went for another drive on x way. Ran around 180 entire time, I was doing 65-70 most of the time. Its 82 here today and muggy, got off x way, and had to sit at light for about a min, ticked up a degree every 5 or 6 seconds until it was 195 and then about a slow 1/2 mile later to my house and my driveway it was 200.
Also of note, I do not have overflow catch can, saw a handful of antifreeze drips in my driveway leading up to the garage. Could rad cap be bad? Either way, I ordered a pusher and hoping that helps, if not I am at a loss.
Quote from: comet_666 on June 15, 2020, 06:30:52 PM
What pusher fans do you guys recommend?
I used a Flexlite "Wave 14 inch" fed by an adjustable thermostat switch to push air through my A/C condenser.
I got same one only 16 inch and I am going to manually toggle it.
The only time I had a over heating problem, I found out the PO installed the wrong water pump. Notice the blades are backwards/different and different count.
Speaking of that Rockauto has ACDELCO 26 252-587 for B/RB at a very good price. It has the disk behind the impeller. :scratchchin: