DodgeCharger.com Forum

Got this car in August 2017 and will share the restoration.

  It is curved glass, what dimension is yours. Side to side, up and down. (Wingman)  Jay.

Ok from the INSIDE of the chrome 42 1/2 by 20 1/2 I am pretty sure its just a regular charger back window. Ya just measured my 70 it's the same size.

looks like a stock tunnel back glass raised up and molded to a fastback style.....the OE Daytona & C500 rear glass is longer from top to bottom

Great car Kevin.  Thanks for sharing.   What is the diagnosis on the engine noise?  Thanks Tom

Looks like a bad rod, having the owner of a local speed shop come by today and give me a quote.  I have 2 extra engines to take as part trade for him.

He just came by, he too thinks the rod is knocking, said for $7000 Cdn thats about $5600 USA plus all my engine parts from the 440 and 413.  His shop will replace the engine with about 425 hp, 440, balanced, new rad and cooling system R and R.  Will drop off the car on Thursday.   Will take a few weeks.

I just had a 440 rebuilt to stock spec but can run on unleaded for $3,900 USD in Feb this year. That included break in and dyno.

It's Canada everything is expensive here, was quoted $16000 for a 500 hp motor from one shop

Sorry missed that part, your correct about it being more in Canada.

Thats crazy money for a 440 motor!
I can't get more than £3000 for a fully rebuilt 440 here in the UK!!! :slap:

Every one I build I lose money on, but hey, its better than watching the Simpsons... :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:

If the exchange rate was better I would send you one of my 70 date coded engines, 500+hp and used to run tens in a street driven Roadrunner... :2thumbs:

£3000..? For a stock factory style rebuild with stockish compression pistons and factory type power output?....or a tuned up build?

Hi Alfa,
Every build is different so pricing is difficult to pin down.
Most UK 440's are ex jensen engines with HD rods and 8.2 to 1 pistons, they are in fact 1973-1976 hd truck engines with a 4bbl manifold.
When they put them in the MK111 Interceptors they were slower than the 383 MK11's.
This prompted a few real HP high comp engines to be built and put into super-rare Six-pack models, based on the 70-71 SP engine.

So when a 440 turns up its all about what it is and how much abuse it has had?
Date coded 68-71 440's are probably twice the price of cobbled up motors from a motorhome etc.
There are no 'bad' 440 blocks or post 67 iron heads, plus all 'steel crank' engines are of premium quality anyways.
The rest of the parts are down to budget, which can run and run and run.into thousands.

I rebuilt a low-comp 73 ex jenny 440 motor for £500 a while back and its still running good, ten years on!
I also built a £5000 race 440, that lasted about a week or two...

You win some you lose some... :shruggy:

Just dropped off the entire 2 engines 440 and 413 plus tons of parts.  Cars in the shop (Pro Stock, performance, in Edmonton) about to get the engine (bad rod) pulled in these pics

Progress

First picture I have seen under the hood
Do you have the part that fills the space between the rad support and the nose cone off or just never had one on your car ?

no tray, the z brackets are way to close as well,have to spread them to put the signal lights in when the new grill comes

Nice car! Good thing you have all those extra engine parts. You will be up and running soon and with a smile on your face!

Ya no tray on the front and totally agree the z brackets are way too close, when I send it to the body guy I will have to get them apart so the signal lights will fit.  What I am missing is as follows, wood grain steering wheel, 69 bucket front seats, the gas gauge is toast, the speedo does not work, front end about 2 inchs too high, the nose grill, 69 valiant signal lights, wing supports for the trunk, and need and probably the most expensive the rear plug/window is not right with rear window ( I have decided that I need to do it right, "in for a penny in for a pound") .  I have budgeted about $20000 to be correct.

Took the engine out today will find out tomorrow what the real cause for the knock.  Also picked up a set of Valiant signal lights $200 cdn about $150 US.  Got them from a super nice guy owns a  flata auto wreck in Tilly Alberta, said he has 4 1969 valiant's in the yard.  He supposed to have tons of MOPAR parts.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on September 09, 2017, 08:06:06 AM
no tray, the z brackets are way to close as well,have to spread them to put the signal lights in when the new grill comes

Will you modify yours or will you be looking for repo Z-brackets?

Was the engine hoist long enough to lift the motor out over the nose cone or did it come out sideways over the fender ?

I will ask about the engine removal, but to answer the the z brackets they are loose inside there, I will have to separate the z brackets.  Theres a different type of bracket in there not straight like others I have seen on this site,  the support brackets holding the nose on is at a 45 degree angle (will take some pics soon of the bracket).  So yesterday I went by the shop, the guy tells me he can't find the main caps for the date coded 70 440 block (which he tested and it's a good block) however, without the caps the block is worthless according to him.  He ask me if I have them.  I say "I will have a look". So when I get of of work last night at 0500 hrs, I find the main caps for the bearings on the shelf, ok cool no problems.  So at 4pm this afternoon I show up at the shop with the caps.  The guy dips his head and says "I just sent the block to the metal recycle's" we don't have enough room here he says. I say WTF !!!!!. So I rush over to this metal junk yard place, and luckily enough the block with a few other blocks are laying a a puddle of mud (wrecked my new running shoes in 1 foot of mud).   Even the guy who runs the yard was shaking his head.  They gave the shop $12 for a date code 1970 440 block.  Was not very happy.  The block is heading back to were it belongs  

Me thinks you need to find a new engine shop asap. They have proven what dumbshits they are! Would not trust them with anything!

Glad to got your block back though.

Wait, what?...
THEY THROUGH OUT YOUR ENGINE BLOCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :flame: :RantExplode: :brickwall:

And they did not respect you or your property enough to go retrieve it after you wanted it back????????

If you are seriously staying with them I think you need to let them know, in no uncertain terms, that ANYTHING, EVEN A BOLT, that they think is "worthless" be placed in a box and you will pick up at the end of the day.

What blk said; glad you got it back!

Totally agree, I went by the shop, spoke with the owners daughter who works in the office.  Apparently this is turning into a big deal, I think someone is in huge trouble.  The shop owner is super pissed as well.   I took some pics of the brackets,  are these regular 1969 brackets ??? these are at a angle all the others I have ever seen come straight out.   One pic shows a little arrow were the hood pins are supposed to go.  The body shop will have to correct that.  They took the engine out pulling it out sideways, too long with the cone, hood stayed on guy said no issues. 

Looks like part of the regular 69 bumper is still on the car

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on September 14, 2017, 11:35:50 PMI took some pics of the brackets,  are these regular 1969 brackets ??? these are at a angle all the others I have ever seen come straight out.  

What you have are fiberglass repro brackets/Z bars that have been "fubar'd", all the other steel brackets/braces and what appears to be the stock 70 Charger front bumper are all hiding in there, it appears they used the 70 Charger bumper as the hanging point as well as the construction point to create a Daytona nose..... FYI: factory Z bars are steel, they are supported by steel C frames that bolt on where the factory stock Charger front bumper brackets were, the latchtray bolts to the top of the Z bars and to a brace welded onto the front of the radiator yoke, I suspect the hidden bumper/brackets inside your nose cone are doing all the support work, you need to decide if your going to rip it all out?, or just fabricate what you need to do to mount a latchtray, your front directionals, etc, etc

Thanks I will need all this info when I send it off to the body shop.  I am sure they have never dealt with this kind of thing before  :cheers:

So spoke with the engine shop, said my block (1973 block) is toast, something to do the the main oil port is done.  So guess what engine they are going to build up.  Yes the date coded 1970 block the one they through out.  Glad I went and got it from the metal recyclers.

Make sure you get the other block back. I have a hard time believing anything can be wrong with an oil port on it judging by what they did with your other block. Even if the threads are messed up on the oil pickup, they can be drilled and tapped for a 1/2 oil pickup.

I will double check thanks, something about the number 1 main being 50 thousand of  inch.  Way out of my league when it comes to old engines.

I'd be so pissed they took the block to the dump that I would take my business elsewhere even if it cost twice as much!

Here's a picture of the heads getting done, we talked about getting headers for the car instead of regular exhaust manifolds, said maybe 45 more hp and better cooling.  Also looked at the engine that was knocking in the car, definitely bearing knock, the back main bearing was completely worn down.

So I was looking at my rear plug and hate it, way too high, I always seem to look at the worst part of my car when I am looking at it.  So I found a vega plug a little rusty at the bottom, but it should work, window is clean and chrome ok, I know I need to change the upper trunk molding with a "Plymouth Dutchman panel" I am not too sure were I would get one of those.  Getting parts for this car is becoming a pain in my ass.   I read ADM sells them for a few $100s, but what year and model would I get ??????

I can't give any guidance on  the Vega/Dutchman panel, just wanted to encourage you to keep up the good work.  These cars can be a challenge, but are a blast when you drive them and make it all worth it.

Think what you have to decide is did they cut the trunk lid off in a straight line ( easier to do and bend the edge over) or are you going to try to go more original look and make the front edge of trunk lid have a curve to it
On mine I think I can live with it just being straight
I have a couple 73 B body parts cars around and have been told the trunk filler on them will work to get the right shape for the gasket to sit in along the front edge

Oh I thought with the vega window, it's absolutely necessary to get the Dutchman, I can live with a straight edge, most people would know the difference, I didn't when I saw it for the first time even having owned 2x 1970 chargers 1x 70 Challenger since the late 80's.  But now (since I been on this site) with that window being so high and not curved, it truly bugs the hell out of me.    :icon_smile_dissapprove:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on September 22, 2017, 12:11:01 PM
Oh I thought with the vega window, it's absolutely necessary to get the Dutchman, I can live with a straight edge, most people would know the difference, I didn't when I saw it for the first time even having owned 2x 1970 chargers 1x 70 Challenger since the late 80's.  But now (since I been on this site) with that window being so high and not curved, it truly bugs the hell out of me.    :icon_smile_dissapprove:

If your going to do the Vega plug, and want to simulate the Daytona/Charger 500 trunk lid/Dutchman curvature, use the 71-74 RR/GTX/SAT/Charger B body dutchman panel (new are available from AMD) your only going to use the trunk gutter from the panel and graft it to the Vega plug

Got ya thanks for the info

Went by the engine shop here's the 70 date coded 440 block they sent to the metal recyclers with the main caps on it lol, they start Monday rebuilding it. Also Got the 69 valiant signal lights (for the front cone) in today lens and body really good shape but the blubs had rusted to the inside of the blub reciprocal, easy fix I think.  

Went by the engine shop they are almost done getting the engine together they are putting in Keith Black pistons, and Comp Cam Extreme Energy, considering TTI headers aswell instead of the H.P manifolds.  :shruggy:

Ok so the car back from the shop with new motor, had overheating problems as per a post I put up, but that seems resolved. So heres what has been done so far.

New Engine  including: 1970 date code 440, ported a poshlished  original heads.
ARP Bolts
New Battery Cable
Competion Cam Mopar Extreme
Aluminator Rad and shroud
New Rod and Main Bearings
New Oil pump and screen
Keith Black pistons
Molly Rings
Hedderman Headers, (Had TTI Header but had clearance problems) also still need racing starter for the Headermans (clearance issues)
Street Roller Lifters
New Valve Springs
Edelbrock Intake / 750 carb
Dyno at 450 ish hp.
etc etc

They lowered the front end (was way to high), took the airbags out of the front and replaced with KYB shocks.

Had a rear passenger side cylinder leak on the brakes (fixed).

Finally found a rear hatch from a Vega in mint shape.

So Have been looking for long time only one found was at autowrecker guy wanted $500.  Ouch.  Anyways put an add on kijiji and 3 months later I get a reply, super nice guy he's a firefighter, wants some of my police badges, so I trade straight across for some shoulder flashes

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 08, 2017, 03:17:54 PM
Finally found a rear hatch from a Vega in mint shape.

So Have been looking for long time only one found was at autowrecker guy wanted $500.  Ouch.  Anyways put an add on kijiji and 3 months later I get a reply, super nice guy he's a firefighter, wants some of my police badges, so I trade straight across for some shoulder flashes

Know the similarity between Police and firefighters?

They BOTH want to be Police.  :2thumbs:

LOL firefighters need heroes too

Over here the other services certainly don't want to be Police. A common phrase about cops from the other services is "last on the scene - first to leave!".

Well done kev on getting the 440 together!

I was gonna ask about the rust staining in the rear bore?
Did they put a liner in there?

Good luck on the Vega hatch fitment.
Myself I would go all-in for a real plug and glass.
Same amount of work just a little dearer on parts... :scratchchin:

Aerolite

ps., who would put airbags on a Mopar???
ITS A NASCAR, not an off-roader... :slap: :slap: :slap:

So now Pro Stock here in Edmonton did my engine there website has my car on its website, as per the link below thank you Pro Stock.   Anyways the A pillars are fiberglass with 3 screw holes so I called a company here in the city they can chrome the a pillar covers for $100 way better than $800 usa. just got to fill the holes with resin as per the pics.



https://www.google.ca/search?source=hp&ei=Iy8KWsb4Ds7ajwO70a-ACg&q=pro+stock&oq=pro+stock&gs_l=psy-ab.3..35i39k1j0l9.1754.4916.0.5378.10.9.0.0.0.0.168.1184.0j9.9.0....0...1.1.64.psy-ab..1.9.1178.0..0i131k1j0i10k1.0.OVMw7AF0HIw

 :cheers: :cheers: :popcrn:

IMHO, spend the money on stainless A pillar moldings, scrap the fiberglass ones...

Fair enough but these are fiberglass I sanded them down, there is a process now that chromes plastic and fiberglass, only going to cost me $100 way better than $400 Usa which is 600 cdn, I will post pics, cross my fingers it works.

My fiberglass moldings came from Janak. They seemed just fine and also thought chroming them.
Then I found i could get repros also. don´t remember if they are from the same guy as those now on ebay.
Anyway the big difference is thickness of the parts.
Atleast the Janak ones are so thick that they would have looked awkward.
i am happy that i bite the bullit and bought the chromed steel ones.
Just my two cents....

The way they wrap things now, I would look into a stainless wrap.

Dane

Stainless wrap thats an awesome idea will check it out cheers :cheers:

So I asked for a flat deck and get this tow truck  :rotz:. Oh well it's only 10 miles to Clark Customs for the body work and its only -20 today here in Canada ouch that sucks Maybe 20 mins outside without proper clothing and your done.  The pic is Shawn CLARKE from Clarke Customs (https://www.facebook.com/anythingmuscle/)   He is replacing the rear quarters, trunk extensions, rear deck, placing a new rear plug, window, and chrome.  One of the torsion boxes is getting rusty so thats getting replaced, and paint (Black with a Red Stripe) will paint the drums Red and the 4 drum brakes.  Place the nose grill and signal lights, getting the headlights to work.  I spoke with Mr JANAK in Texas today from wingedwarriorsbodyparts, said it was cold there 60 degrees, ok what ever.  I will not be putting a Vega plug but getting an original looking one with the proper window.  He tells me that that will take him about 2 months to make and ship up to Canada.  Also just order parts charger emblem for the rear deck, hood pins, the rear deck chrome molding ouch thats was not cheap, the pentastar, all I need now I guess is a proper set o 69 buckets with head rest and a wood grain steering which are very elusive.  

Hope there was not any salt on the road  :brickwall:

Good luck with this next stage of your adventure  :2thumbs:

What are you going to use for a back window glass ?

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 21, 2017, 12:36:22 AM
So I asked for a flat deck and get this tow truck  :rotz:. Oh well it's only 10 miles to Clark Customs for the body work and its only -20 today here in Canada ouch that sucks Maybe 20 mins outside without proper clothing and your done.  The pic is Shawn CLARKE from Clarke Customs (https://www.facebook.com/anythingmuscle/)   He is replacing the rear quarters, trunk extensions, rear deck, placing a new rear plug, window, and chrome.  One of the torsion boxes is getting rusty so thats getting replaced, and paint (Black with a Red Stripe) will paint the drums Red and the 4 drum brakes.  Place the nose grill and signal lights, getting the headlights to work.  I spoke with Mr JANAK in Texas today from wingedwarriorsbodyparts, said it was cold there 60 degrees, ok what ever.  I will not be putting a Vega plug but getting an original looking one with the proper window.  He tells me that that will take him about 2 months to make and ship up to Canada.  Also just order parts charger emblem for the rear deck, hood pins, the rear deck chrome molding ouch thats was not cheap, the pentastar, all I need now I guess is a proper set o 69 buckets with head rest and a wood grain steering which are very elusive.  

should have used the vega hatch  janaks plexiglass window and trim look cheap to me  , just my  :Twocents:

Yikes he told me they look original never seen one before can get a Vega hatch window and trim for $300.   :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin:

Look my post i made à clone with Vega hatch

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 21, 2017, 10:24:12 AM
Yikes he told me they look original never seen one before can get a Vega hatch window and trim for $300.   :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin: :scratchchin:

Ted will tell you anything to make a sale  , Alot of his parts are quality but you have to pick and choose from others experiences

Kind of why I asked what are you using for the back window

So Mr Janak said about the rear window "it's the same material the window of the B1 bomber is made of" sounded real good to me.  :2thumbs:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 21, 2017, 04:19:04 PM
So Mr Janak said about the rear window "it's the same material the window of the B1 bomber is made of" sounded real good to me.  :2thumbs:

believe me there is a reason why most people go out of there way to stay away from the fiber glass plug and trim , plexiglass window .   I have seen many  .

The fiberglass plug is going to flex every time you open and close the trunk lid. This will cause cracks. Bracing the plug may help. I dicked around for a long time trying to brace mine, but eventually gave up on the fiberglass plug and made a steel one.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,10669.0.html

Janak's fiberglass plug is on the left, The steel one I made is on the right.

I guess everyone is dancing around the fact that a Vega plug is the best way to go ??????????????????????????

Guys i am new at this so any input for the vega window vs Janek window would be awesome cheers

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 22, 2017, 12:11:29 AM
I guess everyone is dancing around the fact that a Vega plug is the best way to go ??????????????????????????

I don't dance.

The fiberglass plug is too flimsy, the lexan window sucks.

And...

To me, the vega hatch looks wrong.

So whats the best way of doing this ????? Vega hatch looks wrong the Janek plug is filmsy any sugesstions ???

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 22, 2017, 07:20:16 AM
So whats the best way of doing this ????? Vega hatch looks wrong the Janek plug is filmsy any sugesstions ???

go with the vega plug you get metal plug ,glass and molding ,   it looks good and its the most cost effective , and the money you save there go buy the stainless A pillar molding   :icon_smile_big:

Use the Vega plug for the back window
It is very hard and really expensive to find a Daytona glass back window glass
Your car is always going to be a clone
Where are you going to stop with trying to build a close to original Daytona clone car ?

Are you going to get rid of the fiberglass nose cone you have now and get a metal nose cone ??

Just finish off what you have and learn from it
Keep an eye out to see if anyone starts making a complete conversion kit in metal and a glass back window and use that on your next project  :2thumbs:
There can always be the next project

Thanks guys just purchased the vega plug, was $250 plus $80 for shipping.  Much cheaper

   REad thru ---Daytona clones from around the world post pix----BY Daytona Guy--hes made 10 or 11 clones now.  thread that i bumped up near the top.

 many pages an pixs an info ?  good info on parts an build info,an lots of pixs..latter DJ   :2thumbs:

So got my wife to put chrome wrap over the Fiberglas  a pillar ascents.  Better than $800 usa for them. Janek it was his idea use chrome wrap worked awesome $18 from amazon

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 29, 2017, 08:02:37 PM
So got my wife to put chrome wrap over the Fiberglas  a pillar ascents.  Better than $800 usa for them. Janek it was his idea use 3m chrome wrap worked awesome $18 from amazon

That looks pretty good. :scope: :2thumbs:

I might have to try that.  :scratchchin:

Got a link to the product you used?

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017BVYZG0/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on November 30, 2017, 06:09:47 AM
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B017BVYZG0/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1

:2thumbs:

Got this off of ebay was $30, old school dodge dealership emblem, looked them up they are out of business, thinking of putting on the trunk lip, hell of a conversation piece especially here in Canada at any car show

following this nice car ! :popcrn:

I love this build! Is the car staying black? I know I will be shouted down for this, but doing the wing and stripe in chrome would be awesome!

3X

Quote from: triple_green on December 16, 2017, 12:29:59 PM
...I know I will be shouted down for this, but doing the wing and stripe in chrome would be awesome!

Yes, it would.  No shouting you down from here.   :2thumbs:

So after several months a searching most of the USA and Canada for a good set of buckets I found these 25 miles from my place the guy has 69 R/T Charger that he is converting into a Restro Mod.  They are Mint condition got them for $1200 Cdn or about $900 usa. Now they are home in my garage.  

Nice bucket

So I went by the Body Shop Clarke Customs here in Edmonton (-42 with wind chill tonight)  :icon_smile_angry:, anyway heres what happened.  I am still waiting for the crate with all the parts from National Moparts in Barrie, Ontario should be here next Wednesday give or take.  Anyway Sean (Body guy) was working on the Vega window not much rust says he separating the "skin" the rear window looks great, need to re-chrome the molding thou.

Then I went to see the car in the "barn" with all the other cars and saw that the rear window was full of Bondo.

Heres a pic of how thick the Bondo was Sean kept a chunk said he has never seen it so thick.

Well I also got a set of Daytona Floor mats for Christmas fits perfect, going to paint the wing Red remember.

So final after 1 month plus waiting for my parts to arrive from Ontario to my acreage here in Sherwood Park.  Anyways I get a call from the driver sitting in the truck, (ya that one there, wife took pic) say's "do you have a forklift" well Sh** doesn't everyone in Sherwood Park have a "forklift" almost as common as a toilet or running water. WTF, do I live on an acreage or the owner of a Costco.   I tell him I don't have a "forklift" i'm at work till 10 pm, but my wife came home early to open the garage door for you guy's or in this case "guy".  Say's my wife looks too small to help him unload the 480 lbs crate from the back of his truck.  So I say, you came excepting me to have a "forklift" and a bunch of guy's to be waiting for the my delivery should have asked maybe ?  Anyways without losing my cool too much he turned around went back to Edmonton and will return Monday with the correct equipment and manpower.  Another road bump in the history of this car I guess.  

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 05, 2018, 06:36:56 PM
Anyways without losing my cool too much he turned around went back to Edmonton and will return Monday with the correct equipment and manpower.  Another road bump in the history of this car I guess.  

Why can''t the guy unload the crate piece by piece?  Seems turning around to get a forklift and more help would be more time consuming.

Don't know probably too much work for the guy I guess.  really pissed me off thou

Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on January 05, 2018, 07:20:31 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 05, 2018, 06:36:56 PM
Anyways without losing my cool too much he turned around went back to Edmonton and will return Monday with the correct equipment and manpower.  Another road bump in the history of this car I guess.  

Why can''t the guy unload the crate piece by piece?  Seems turning around to get a forklift and more help would be more time consuming.

I've unloaded large crates/pallets, even parts/project cars from the insides of a tractor trailer, just call the local tow company that has a tilt truck/rollback/flatbed/etc (whatever you call it in your neck of the woods) most tilt trucks line up with trailers bed, plus some tilts can alter their horizontal bed height, just hook the object, winch it out to the edge of the tilt truck, the tractor trailer driver away, just have the tilt truck ramp it to where you want it, and slide it off, I've even used round wooden fence post or steel fence poles to "roll" large pallets/boxes/frames/etc off the base of the tilt trucks tilted bed and roll them down the driveway into the garage, one man operation...just use your head  :icon_smile_big:


Usually most rollback/tiltbed service is $50-$100, plus there's no mileage charge, as the guy is picking it out of the trailer, and ramping it off at your home or business, unless you want it transported to another location, 480 lb crate is "child's play" If you think it out before hand, and can manage to roll the pallet/box/frame on some wooden/steel poles/pipe while pulling it out of the trailer onto the rollback, it just slides off with no effort being winched down the tilted ramp of the truck to the spot you need it at...

Try and find a local tilt-truck/tow company that's "around the corner" so that when the trailer shows up, the ramp truck is down the road a call away, usually you have to hold the driver's hand and walk him thru what you want done


here's a pic if your not following me?

Quote from: DAY CLONA on January 05, 2018, 07:49:06 PM

Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on January 05, 2018, 07:20:31 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 05, 2018, 06:36:56 PM
Anyways without losing my cool too much he turned around went back to Edmonton and will return Monday with the correct equipment and manpower.  Another road bump in the history of this car I guess. 

Why can''t the guy unload the crate piece by piece?  Seems turning around to get a forklift and more help would be more time consuming.

I've unloaded large crates/pallets, even parts/project cars from the insides of a tractor trailer, just call the local tow company that has a tilt truck/rollback/flatbed/etc (whatever you call it in your neck of the woods) most tilt trucks line up with trailers bed, plus some tilts can alter their horizontal bed height, just hook the object, winch it out to the edge of the tilt truck, the tractor trailer driver away, just have the tilt truck ramp it to where you want it, and slide it off, I've even used round wooden fence post or steel fence poles to "roll" large pallets/boxes/frames/etc off the base of the tilt trucks tilted bed and roll them down the driveway into the garage, one man operation...just use your head  :icon_smile_big:


Usually most rollback/tiltbed service is $50-$100, plus there's no mileage charge, as the guy is picking it out of the trailer, and ramping it off at your home or business, unless you want it transported to another location, 480 lb crate is "child's play" If you think it out before hand, and can manage to roll the pallet/box/frame on some wooden/steel poles/pipe while pulling it out of the trailer onto the rollback, it just slides off with no effort being winched down the tilted ramp of the truck to the spot you need it at...

Try and find a local tilt-truck/tow company that's "around the corner" so that when the trailer shows up, the ramp truck is down the road a call away, usually you have to hold the driver's hand and walk him thru what you want done


here's a pic if your not following me?

Now that is pretty dang clever right there. :cheers:

No they said they have to drop it off as a part of the contract, so they will be back Monday, If its on the ground I will pull the pallet with my tractor into the garage.   I was just surprise they thought a residential home would have a forklift for them and a bunch of guys waiting to unload.

What did you get from Ontario ?

Quarters, trunk floor, trunk extensions, rear valance, valance corners, tons of new chrome, hood pins, battery tray tie down, probably forgot some stuff.  From Nationalmoparts in Beaverton, Ont.  will take a pic Monday when it comes. "cross my fingers"

From Nigel  :yesnod:

Just a bunch of sheet metal should not have been too hard to unload

So I call the shipping company Quik X, Edmonton, now they say because it's the second delivery and need more guy's they are going to charge me more, holding my parts as ransom. WTF, I yell at the girl on the phone, she hangs up, so I drive 45 mins and pick the stuff up myself.  

Anyway the parts are at home, spoke with my body guy, he says for another $1500 he will paint the car F8 Green will pull engine a transmission to get it done correctly, he was just going to "touch up" the engine if kept Black.  Always loved F8 Green, Black is hard to keep clean, had a Buick Grand National years back terrible to keep looking good, any thoughts ????

Just one..."DON'T DO IT" .You are going to spray your black Charger green? Really?  Have you considered professional  help!? Just kidding , it's your car..if you can find the readies and its what you want...go for it!

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 08, 2018, 02:52:36 PM
any thoughts ????

IMHO a black Daytona is hard to beat, esp with a white interior and red wing in the looks dept, or even a white wing, or black interior but it's your car...If you go Fugly8 just be sure to add the dog dish hupcaps for the full effect  :slap:

Ya just throwing out there my wife said no way as well, will be Black with Red Stripe.  Still love that F8 green thou.  Will also paint the drums Red and the Chin spoiler Red.

I vote f8

I've liked F8 since 1970. 

It all depends on your preference. 

Well heres some pics of what arrived.

more

Got my head rest chrome trim today, got it for $30 shipping included (kijiji) from a lead off of this dodge charger forum

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 10, 2018, 04:39:24 PM
Got my head rest chrome trim today, got it for $30 shipping included (kijiji) from a lead off of this dodge charger forum

My bud needs head rest chrome - where did you get it, and is there a equivalent in the US?

Thanks!

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 08, 2018, 07:58:28 PM
Will also paint the drums Red and the Chin spoiler Red.

Everything you said was good up until this point.  That will look gaudy.   :Twocents:

https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-b-body/hrctab

year one had the headrest chrome

I will put some pics up when its done.

Quote from: Fitz73Chrgr on January 10, 2018, 07:13:19 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 08, 2018, 07:58:28 PM
Will also paint the drums Red and the Chin spoiler Red.

Everything you said was good up until this point.  That will look gaudy.   :Twocents:

I seen some cars already have the chin spoiler same color as the wing, I thought would really stick out, looking at the front, but I was pretty sure you could get red colored drums from the factory ? heres a link

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,4972.0.html

Worked on the head rest from my new seats tonight, the old one had been painted over the years Black in color.  Had to get an x-acto knife dig out the old molding took about 1 hour each, but turned out really good.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 12, 2018, 10:59:10 PM
Worked on the head rest from my new seats tonight, the old one had been painted over the years Black in color.  Had to get an x-acto knife dig out the old molding took about 1 hour each, but turned out really good.

Pictures of how it turned out ? :2thumbs:

Actually kinda lied, my wife who is very crafty and makes jewelry actually dug it out, I watched from a distance having a couple of beer, but did help hold the molding down when we glued it in.  ;D

Went by the body shop, Sean it tearing it down, kinda of a weird feeling, kinda like watch your pet dog have an operation, anyways, heres the pics, we found a dead mouse in the back seat.

your is so rust  :o

Yes thats why everything is been replaced, trunk floor, bumper brackets, gas tank, trunk extensions, quarter panels everything will be new all and replaced with AMD metal.  everything from the door forward are solid but the ass end is pretty much done for.   Sean from Clark Customs here in Edmonton is doing all the work, he's my "golden goose".  He's a MOPAR nut like the rest of us. Notice the plywood in the back seat, original dodge part very rare. lol

Yes i watch à photos on Facebook page

Make sure your back seat windows roll up and down easily right now when it is easy to see what they are doing and if any of the rollers are broken and need replacing 

Quote from: 70 sublime on January 15, 2018, 09:18:23 AM
Make sure your back seat windows roll up and down easily right now when it is easy to see what they are doing and if any of the rollers are broken and need replacing 

Will do make sense when its apart thanks

Did not find any build sheet under the seat but one dead mouse, nasty  :eek2:

Heres some progress just test fitting the quarter panels and trunk pan, still waiting from classic industries on fuel tank and some other smaller parts.  last pic is an area that has to be addressed.  But Sean says it's an easy fix for him.  He found duct tape in the wheel holding it together.  Whoever did the body last really butchered it.  But this time around it's going to be done right.

Wow lots of work. Wouldn't have guessed that car was like that.

More pics

Make sure you check tail light fit before paint. Very common for the buckets to welded in wonky.

Looks like someone got carried away a bit with the sawsall cutting the trunk floor out and needs to weld it back up

Steering Wheel and gas tank arrived, Steering was on sale everything$550.

Just ordered from this website (cross my fingers) only $300 plus for a latch tray and nose cone trim ring

https://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/products/kit-dodge-daytona

will post pics when it arrives

spoke with Tina very professional 

More parts from classic industries :drool5: On a off note super impressed with the customer service and delivery time with these guys wow only a 7 day delivery time here in Canada. 2 thumbs up   :2thumbs:

Nice!  :2thumbs:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 23, 2018, 01:18:44 PM
More parts from classic industries :drool5: On a off note super impressed with the customer service and delivery time with these guys wow only a 7 day delivery time here in Canada. 2 thumbs up   :2thumbs:

Other than they'll only use UPS and won't mail stuff. Have had great service out of them. Even my rear frame rails.. last pair in stock anywhere... came from Classics freight... almost over a weekend... AND I had a 25% off code!  :2thumbs:

Zero complaints with classic industries no issues with coming to Canada and super fast delivery.

Gotta be careful with UPS. They'll nail you with huge brokerage fees.

They charged me $130 to get it into the country  :shruggy:

New Cross Member from Classic Industries arrived today.  Still lot more parts are coming.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 23, 2018, 11:36:58 AM
Just ordered from this website (cross my fingers) only $300 plus for a latch tray and nose cone trim ring

https://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/products/kit-dodge-daytona

will post pics when it arrives

spoke with Tina very professional 

I have always had good luck when dealing with Stinger/AAR. I plan on using them again in the future for sure.

I will take some pics when that stuff arrives  :icon_smile_big:

when is your Daytona due to be finished at your bodyshop?

Sean says May by my birthday, I just purchased new carpet and need that installed and a new exhaust, thinking of getting a hidden stereo as well.  My new floor and wheel tubs just cleared customs today, they are supposed to be here tomorrow.  Same with the latch tray and nose cone insert from stinger/AAR.  I have already hook up my trailer to take them to Clarke Customs tomorrow.  Will take pics.  

Sean just fabricated new trunk wells.  Told him I could have purscahed them but he wanted to make them instead.

On an original Charger there is a VIN number stamped into the factory trunk well right under the same spot the weather strip glues down to on the driver side
Might want to see if that is still around on the part he cut out and weld it back in ???

I have the VIN but it is a different number than the one on the dash ?????????

The Stinger stuff arrived the nose cone insert and hood latch plate, they threw in the mesh for free very happy.  Thanks Stinger/AAA  :2thumbs:

that grille frame sure looks thick and chunky   ?

looks ok to me  :shruggy: mesh looks different thou

So some more big parts just arrived the floor, wheel wells, and trunk supports all from Classic Industries.  I noticed one package from classic industries says AMD. oh well.  Now one more package and I should be done I have ordered carpet and a passenger side mirror.  Guess should have ordered everything at the same time saved on brokerage fees.  Well i am an idiot I guess.Minus -21 here with the windchill -29 ouch.

More work on the trunk gutter.

Looking really nice.

what was your process of choosing this bodyshop? Did you talk to previous clients? Look at completed vehicles?

I think this is a fair question.

When I purchased the car I spoke with the president of the Edmonton MOPAR Association Jason, after buying the car he and Sean came by my house and had a look,  he actually called Sean when he showed up, we all had a couple of beers.  We talked about a new body/paint. Then Jason told me that Sean has a body shop that he works on weekends and after his regular job working at area Edmonton body shop.  To be honest I went by Sean shop and had a look on a 73 Charger he was restoring the body work and paint was amazing.  I hired him to be honest he is charging me about 1/3 of the price a regular shop would charge.  He has never lied to me and is more excited than anyone I have ever hired to work on a car. I have had multiple cars over my lifetime. Sean has never let me down.  He is a craftsman.  Since I have meet him there are other people with similar projects that want to have him work on their cars.  He has put mine on his list to be finished first.   I have seen some of his amazing skills, he has guided me through some of the process to get this car to what I want.  He has said he could patch the floor or the patch the cross member.  I have decided new parts and metal are the way to go.  I have zero issues with Sean I consider him a expert and is behind me 100% on this project.

Coming along nicely Kevin, looks great.  I'm excited for you!  Thank you for sharing the build with us.     :2thumbs:-Tom

cheers  :cheers:

Sold my 1970 seats from the Daytona today got $1500 for them had the add up for about 2 months.

Does anyone know if the regular trunk will fit the Vega Hatch or does the trunk get trimmed off to make a proper fit.   :scratchchin:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on February 05, 2018, 08:12:08 PM
Sold my 1970 seats from the Daytona today got $1500 for them had the add up for about 2 months.

:o $1500!?!

Yes my 69 seat were $1200 the ones I sold were really 1970 Charger seats.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on February 06, 2018, 06:15:29 PM
Does anyone know if the regular trunk will fit the Vega Hatch or does the trunk get trimmed off to make a proper fit.   :scratchchin:

The "plug" basically fills the sail panels of the regular Charger and, since the trunk lid goes all the way up into that area, you'll need to shorten it.

Troy

Thanks I was in a little panic Sean was working on the trunk gutter thinking he needed to change it.  But I guess the previous owner when he converted into a Daytona clone (which look like absolute sh**) had already shortened the trunk so no problems.  :cheers:

Cheers

More parts arrived today new carpet and underlay, truck molding, and passenger side quarter window, the one on the car now was pitted badly.  I am also recording keeping all bills in a binder in case someone needs to know how much I have spent.  I hide it from my wife lol.

You can keep all your bills paperwork but never ever add them all up  :icon_smile_tongue:

You'd best get a thicker binder !!  :yesnod: :lol:

So finally the last (cross my fingers) body parts arrived today the inner wheel tubs and the trunk latch.  Just dropped them off at the body shop.  Sean says now he can get to work on the car, we were waiting on the parts and could not start until they arrived.   Sean looks happier than me lol.

.......he probably looking forward to putting the deposit down on his new teeth when you pay him!

Just ordered a set of trunk hinges from daytonalo thanks Larry will post when they arrive.  Jesus last post I said no more parts  :shruggy:

NO ESPONOL :icon_smile_big:

Sean got the rear quarters, trunk floor, innner and otter wheel wheels, and rear valance all welded in.

More pics

I am trying to finish the trunk area on my Daytona clone, if you have any more pictures please post them, these are great. Thanks.

Heres Sean facebook page.  Sure if you have any questions he would answer you.  Should be more pic as well. https://www.facebook.com/anythingmuscle/

Well my trunk hinges showed up, thanks Larry  :icon_smile_big:

you taking them out to seans this weekend?

No I keep the small items at home, he's starting on the floor next, then the plug, then the nose, and then paint hopefully done in May.  Already paid half the cost the 1/4 before paint and the rest at completion.

So finally Sean is back from Yuma Arizona from his winter vacation, guess his mom and dad are s snowbirds have place there. Anyways talked about getting hole cut in the front fender as per pics, also talked about the torsion bar being replaced he thinks the the old ones are fine, but since the cross member is being replaced, not too sure ????

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on March 13, 2018, 09:03:59 PM
So finally Sean is back from Yuma Arizona from his winter vacation, guess his mom and dad are snowbirds have place there. Anyways talked about getting hole cut in the front fender as per pics, also talked about the torsion bar being replaced he thinks the the old ones are fine, but since the cross member is being replaced, not too sure ????  Sorry for the double reply website was being really slow and weird.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on March 13, 2018, 09:03:59 PM
...talked about getting hole cut in the front fender as per pics...

I'm assuming you mean the holes on top of the fenders.  Has there been a thread as to this being a good or bad idea?  I've heard of complaints from Daytona owners about them...and would you hit speeds high enough to make their functionality worthwile?

And if you're thinking of replacing torsion bars, why not go with nice big stout ones?

yes dont cut the hole unless you want road grime and debris all over your hood fenders and windshield   , just put your scoopes on as is 

I am not cutting holes in my fenders when I get to this point
Might just paint a flat black circle in the right spot so if you want to look in the scoop you might see something  :2thumbs:

 :2thumbs:

Ok no holes in the fender and I am still waiting for lighthorseman come and have a look, you live around the corner. I'm a patrol Sgt with EPS by the way.

 :2thumbs:  :2thumbs:  :2thumbs:

give me a call next week 780-922-3274 going by the shop would love some advise.  live just outside ardrossan on baseline.  I know you looked at this car about 5 years ago.

Troy you have the best mopar video on youtube from your Daytona to the t/a challenger, watch about once a week.  "this is freaking cool" as you drive the Daytona down your road in Texas, 2 thumps up.

I noticed that your quarter doesn't have the holes for the charger script, or I could just be blind.

Curt

Went by the shop with my dad, Sean has started ripping the underneath section that was really rusty on the driver side just behind the driver door.  Passenger side is ok, but wow had no idea it was that rusty.  Glad I am replacing everything.  Sean say he's getting some "16 gauge" steel to fix that spot.   The other pic is the old rusty parts that have already been replaced with new stuff.  We also talked about the headlight doors that open but never actually worked, Stinger in Florida who builds them said they use a "4 inch actuator" any suggestion would be great.

what day & time r u going back to the shop?

Tomorrow

So the larger rusted out piece has been repaired and the door jam as well, it too was rusty, Sean used a cardboard template to cut a fabricate the  new pieces.

 :coolgleamA: :scope:  :popcrn:

By the end of the day he got the fender and door jam welded permanently up.

Lots of work!

Get that dash covered up!!

Will get it covered up.  There's a reason for that, today we took the steering wheel off (got a new reproduction one) there's a guy named Bobby U***** has been following this thread and asked for the cover over the aftermarket steering wheel.   He lives in Southern Alberta.  May have seen his Daytona, kinda famous I think.  Told him he could have for free.  I am going back to southern Alberta in 3 weeks for a police reunion and the Taber Police Ball kinda hoping I can delivery it personally and have a look at his car.   Maybe he will allow me to take some pics and share.  we'll see have to ask for permission.  Check out the old 1969 Alberta plate.

 :drool5: Met him at talladega  he was a super nice guy , had put a hemi in it

Quote from: moparstuart on March 25, 2018, 03:07:16 AM
:drool5: Met him at talladega  he was a super nice guy , had put a hemi in it

Met him there too and yes, absolutely a great guy with a fantastic story on the car.

New suspension bushing kit arrived today got it from ebay

Well Bobby called tonight asked me to take the "town" where he lives in my previous post, which of course I did, talked for about an hour about his real Daytona, told me the reason why there a missing chuck out of the rear quarter panel drivers side, well apparently and this his his version in 1978 after a "dubby" and drinking wine with some girls at a 7-11 in Edmonton a drunk driver drove into his car putting a huge dent, he has removed the dent and never replaced it.  great stories here  some pics he sent to me in Red Deer last year.

So finally after almost 8 months since I got the car the worst ugliest part is being done, that rear plug as per pic was a thorn in my side.  if anyone thinks putting a regular charger window in a Daytona looks ok, it's not, it fuc**** ugly. anyway Sean today got the Vega plug in, I am very happy. Have to buy some new parts as well, the trunk is toast weighs about 80 lbs, its full of bondo.

thats Sean with my boy helping, Jamie he's 16 he insisted I put a pic of his Genesis (sorry) on this site.

pics of the vega plug before being trimmed.

Wow wings back on.  Guess Sean is checking for fit, this is off off his facebook site and I quote  "Getting closer to being able to weld the in the rear window plug. Have a few more pieces to fabricate and mock up and then it's time to weld everything in place".

More work on the plug this weekend.

Got this today for my garage the guy did customs colors same as the car I am building, its a wall mural was about $30. love it.  Damn Hemi Orange wing with a Black car, maybe Red is not what im going with

Went by the shop with new classic industries truck from AMD lol  the floor which was covered in that dynamax crap had some secrets under neath namely rust.

Secondly and more importantly and any input would be insightful.  The 727 needs a  rebuild, the floor and pedals are coming out amyways should I change this car to a 4 SPEED ?????????????????????????????????????????????

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 21, 2018, 05:50:51 PM
Secondly and more importantly and any input would be insightful.  The 727 needs a  rebuild, the floor and pedals are coming out amyways should I change this car to a 4 SPEED ?????????????????????????????????????????????

Is this just a picture or is it a real kit ?
How much are they asking for this if it is a kit ?
Just curious

Yes standards are more fun  :icon_smile_big:

Sent an email to them waiting for a reply, they need to know the horsepower and size on engine 

http://www.brewersperformance.com/

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 21, 2018, 05:50:51 PM
Secondly and more importantly and any input would be insightful.  The 727 needs a  rebuild, the floor and pedals are coming out amyways should I change this car to a 4 SPEED ?????????????????????????????????????????????

The short answer for me is "yes". Everything is mor fun with a manual. Shop around if you can though cause you will pay extra for the convenience of one stop shopping. Sometimes that can be a good thing too.

Thats 2 vote for a 4 speed anyone have any info on brewers performance

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 21, 2018, 09:52:08 PM
Thats 2 vote for a 4 speed anyone have any info on brewers performance

You'll be dropping $4K USD + for a Brewers rebuilt 4spd set up... not worth it IMHO (respected vendor/quality components, but outdated application wise), consider a 5 or 6 spd Tremec TKO600 or T56 6spd, for about the same coin, you'll get more components, a better transmission, and a more versatile car in the end.... RPM, mileage and fun factor wise

I'd recommend Silver Sport Transmission (SST) in Tenn.

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 21, 2018, 10:59:40 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 21, 2018, 09:52:08 PM
Thats 2 vote for a 4 speed anyone have any info on brewers performance

You'll be dropping $4K USD + for a Brewers rebuilt 4spd set up... not worth it IMHO (respected vendor/quality components, but outdated application wise), consider a 5 or 6 spd Tremec TKO600 or T56 6spd, for about the same coin, you'll get more components, a better transmission, and a more versatile car in the end.... RPM, mileage and fun factor wise



I'd recommend Silver Sport Transmission (SST) in Tenn.

Outdated maybe. But the 833 i superior to the Tremec if you are going to use it hard.

K-E

Wow silver sport has a conversion kit as well thanks

https://shiftsst.com/mopar/

BREWER'S PERFORMANCE, INC
www.brewersperformance.com
10510 STATE ROUTE 571
LAURA, OH 45337-8799
Voice:
Fax:
937/947-4416
937/947-4419
QUOTATION
Item Weight Quantity Item Description Unit Price Amount
0.26 1.00 PB5300 PILOT ROLLER BEARING, 1.815" O/D 18.95 18.95
22.62 RAM1023PKG RAM 10.9" 23SPL B&B STR DISC/PP/PP 459.95
BOLTS/T/O BRG/TOOL PKG
24.00 1.00 MC75209 McLEOD 10.5" 23SPL PERF DISC/PP/T/O 411.42 411.42
BRG/TOOL PKG
24.34 CDF1023PKG CENTERFORCE DUAL FRICTION 10.5" 23 559.95
SPL, T/O BRG & ALIGN TOOL PKG
0.28 1.00 BP910 PRESSURE PLATE BOLT PKG SET/6, 12.95 12.95
9/16" HEX HEAD
11.44 1.00 BH513R-263 BELLHOUSING W/PIVOT 70-2 BB 329.95 329.95
REPRO, 4.805" HOLE
0.44 1.00 BP-BHBB BELL HOUSING TO ENGINE BOLT SET 24.95 24.95
BB
0.10 1.00 BHSS10 BELLHOUSING STARTER SEAL, BIG 12.95 12.95
BLOCK 10.5"
0.20 1.00 BP-ST STARTER HARDWARE PKG 11.95 11.95
1.38 1.00 CF702N CL FORK 66-74 BB/70-4 E/71-4 B SB NEW 89.95 89.95
0.26 1.00 FB300 FORK BOOT, BELLHOUSING, ALL 23.95 23.95
2.78 1.00 DC10 BELL HOUSING DUST COVER 10.5" BB 99.95 99.95
STEEL
0.02 5.00 DCB 5/16-18 X 11/16" BOLTS, EACH 0.95 4.75
1.00 MISC REBUILT TRANSMISSION 23 SPLINE 1,499.95 1,499.95
1.00 TPC TRANSMISSION PACKAGING CHARGE 49.95 49.95
7.74 1.00 GL4SL STA-LUBE GEAR OIL, 1 GALLON GL4 39.95 39.95
Freight
Quote Number: 042318KB
Quote Date: Apr 23, 2018
Sales Rep
Quoted To:
KEVIN BROOKES
Good Thru
5/23/18
Customer ID Payment Terms
Page:
BROOKES, KEVIN Prepaid WAYNE
2
TOTAL Continued
Sales Tax Continued
Subtotal Continued
BREWER'S PERFORMANCE, INC
www.brewersperformance.com
10510 STATE ROUTE 571
LAURA, OH 45337-8799
Voice:
Fax:
937/947-4416
937/947-4419
QUOTATION
Item Weight Quantity Item Description Unit Price Amount
85-90 WEIGHT
0.30 1.00 BP-TB TRANSMISSION TO BELLHOUSING 5.95 5.95
BOLT/WASHER KIT
4.10 1.00 TC668 TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER 66-69 B 139.95 139.95
4-SPEED, REPRODUCTION
1.22 TM2272P TRANSMISSION MOUNT 66-70 B, 66-72 69.95
A, NEW, POLY
3.96 1.00 SM4076A HURST COMP+ SHIFTER MECH 219.95 219.95
W/CLAMP/BOLTS
3.10 1.00 SP6789IK INSTALL KIT FOR COMP+ 201.82 201.82
B-BODY/OVERDRIVE
2.30 1.00 SH057R SHIFT HANDLE 68-9 B CONSOLE, 200.00 200.00
BOLT-ON REPRO
0.01 1.00 LN244 LOCKNUT, SHIFT BALL 3/8x24 7.95 7.95
0.20 1.00 SB213 WOODGRAIN SHIFTER BALL 3/8-24 39.95 39.95
1968-74
1.58 1.00 FT171 FLOOR TUNNEL 1966-70 B, 159.95 159.95
REPRODUCTION 20 GA
0.54 1.00 SB074R SHIFT BOOT 70 B NON-CONS, 59.95 59.95
REPRO---USE UNDER CONSOLE
0.04 4.00 SBBS-2 SHIFT BOOT TO FLOOR SCREW, EACH 0.95 3.80
19.26 1.00 CS66B CARPET SET 66-70 B BLACK, 4-SPEED 179.95 179.95
0.20 1.00 RIL REVERSE INDICATOR LAMP, ALL 68 & UP 89.95 89.95
0.12 1.00 BLH BACKUP LIGHT HARNESS 68-72 MOST 31.95 31.95
Freight
Quote Number: 042318KB
Quote Date: Apr 23, 2018
Sales Rep
Quoted To:
KEVIN BROOKES
Good Thru
5/23/18
Customer ID Payment Terms
Page:
BROOKES, KEVIN Prepaid WAYNE
3
TOTAL Continued
Sales Tax Continued
Subtotal Continued
BREWER'S PERFORMANCE, INC
www.brewersperformance.com
10510 STATE ROUTE 571
LAURA, OH 45337-8799
Voice:
Fax:
937/947-4416
937/947-4419
QUOTATION
Item Weight Quantity Item Description Unit Price Amount
PARTS TO CONVERT AUTO CONSOLE:
1.98 1.00 CON-BKT-B CONSOLE BRACKETS 66-70 B 4-SPEED, 99.95 99.95
SET, REPRODUCTION
9.00 1.00 CON-TPK6970 4-SPEED CONSOLE TOP PLATE KIT 599.95 599.95
1969-70 B-BODY WOODGRAIN
0.48 1.00 SB454 SHIFT BOOT 68-9 B CONS UPPER 99.95 99.95
(HURST) REPRO--DISCONTINUED
7.00 1.00 CON-SC CONSOLE SIDE COVER 66-70 B 69.95 69.95
4-SPEED, REPRODUCTION--CUT AUTO
CONSOLE SIDE TO CLEAR FLOOR
TUNNEL
2.22 1.00 CCS CONSOLE CARPET STRIPS 66-70 B 4SP 89.95 89.95
BLACK
0.36 1.00 CON-MLDG-PR CONSOLE MOLDINGS (PAIR) 66-70 B 179.95 179.95
4-SPEED, REPRODUCTION
FREIGHT SHIPPING CHARGES TO BE
DETERMINED
Freight
Quote Number: 042318KB
Quote Date: Apr 23, 2018
Sales Rep
Quoted To:
KEVIN BROOKES
Good Thru
5/23/18
Customer ID Payment Terms
Page:
BROOKES, KEVIN Prepaid WAYNE
4
TOTAL 5,915.94

Quote from: 1969daytona on April 22, 2018, 01:26:43 AM




Outdated maybe. But the 833 i superior to the Tremec if you are going to use it hard.

K-E

If your going all out drag racing, yes the 833 is the superior animal in stock form, although the Tremec can be modified for use in the 1000-1500 hp range if so desired, but an OD is not practical nor needed for a race only vehicle if going in a straight line, road course is a completely different story where an OD has a benefit over a 833, even a modified OD 833....

I'll assume the OP is more interested in a nice cruiser, so why not take advantage of a modern OD, then he's not limited to his choice of rear gears, RPM range, poor MPG, or stuck driving on the highway in the low speed lane because he can't keep up with minivan's running OD transmissions...  :Twocents: :scratchchin:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 23, 2018, 03:33:28 PM

TOTAL 5,915.94

If that's USD?, then the price increase is a good $1K+ higher than I told you it would be  :eek2:

For that price you could step into a new T56 6spd from SST with the same basic parts list that Brewers quoted you, plus get a 10,000 RPM balanced new driveshaft/yoke/joints included, and a 3 year warranty...if you do decide to go TKO or T56 go with the hyd throw out bearing set up, SST also has pedals/shifters/etc...SST is a one stop shop for a Tremec install, you won't have to worry about sourcing misc items

If your interested talk to Jeff Kaufman at SST for quotes/pricing/application

FYI: TKO600 5spds last I recall were in the $3500 to $5K range depending on what you required transmission and component wise...but generally you'll find the 6spd is comparable in price to the 5 spd, and in some applications actually less than the 5 spd for the same application, whatever you decide 4,5 or 6 speed, it'll be a lot more fun to drive than the slush box that's in it now...

mike

- Returned Material Authorization number (RMA) REQUIRED for all returns
- No refunds on special order or used parts
Warranty Info - www.shiftsst.com/warranty
Silver Sport Transmissions is your one stop solution for powertrain conversions!
• SST PerfectFit™ TREMEC 5 & 6 speed conversions
• SST mulit speed A41 automatic overdrive
• GM and Pace Performance crate engines and accessories
• GM 12 bolt and Ford 9" axle kits
• EPAS Performance Electric Power Steering
• FAST Shipping
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2250 Stock Creek Blvd
Rockford TN 37853
Description Qty Total
**MORE INFO NEEDED** to determine speedometer gear - requires tire size and rear axle
ratio from customer
1 0.00T
Transmission backup light connector pigtails come with a factory-correct molded connector
and 9 in. wire leads.
1 0.00T
HD roller pilot bearing, Mopar SB/BB/G3 Hemi to SST TREMEC TKO 1 0.00T
Transmission to bellhousing hardware - Ford/Mopar 1 0.00T
Rubber mount to crossmember hardware 1 0.00T
Rubber mount to transmission hardware 1 0.00T
Speedometer connection hardware, includes clip, bolt, lock washer and o-ring 1 0.00T
Clutch Pivot Mount--Bellhousing hardware 1 0.00T
Shifter handle 5/16-18 hardware 1 0.00T
Installation manual, SST TREMEC TKO, Mopar B body 1962-1970 1 0.00T
Customer invoice and warranty paperwork 1 0.00T
Lube Pack, Speedometer Cable, input shaft, Specially formulated, calcium based grease for
cables.
1 0.00T
Kit subtotal - Silver Sport Transmissions TREMEC® TKO 5 speed package for 1966-1970
Mopar B body. Includes all 0.00 items listed above.
3,999.00
SST reproduction bellhousing for Mopar big block B/RB engines and TREMEC TKO
installation. Dual starter mounting for 130 & 143 tooth flywheels. Includes steel inspection
cover and hardware, Made in USA.
1 450.95T
143 tooth billet steel flywheel for Mopar internally balanced B/RB engines with 6 bolt crank
flange. Induction hardened ring gear, Made in USA.
1 340.00T
Chevy/Mopar/Ford Flywheel Bolts, set of 6 1 11.95T
Page 2
Sale Rep Jeff
Total
Subtotal
Sales Tax (0.0%)
Silver Sport Transmissions is your one stop solution for powertrain conversions!
• SST PerfectFit™ TREMEC 5 & 6 speed conversions
• SST mulit speed A41 automatic overdrive
• GM and Pace Performance crate engines and accessories
• GM 12 bolt and Ford 9" axle kits
• EPAS Performance Electric Power Steering
• FAST Shipping
• EXCELLENT customer service
• POSITIVE ONLINE REVIEWS with many listed on Facebook
1-844-609-8187 865-609-8187
Web: www.shiftsst.com E-Mail: info@shiftsst.com
2250 Stock Creek Blvd
Rockford TN 37853
Description Qty Total
SST Advanced Friction™ STR clutch set.
• 11"
• 26 spline
• Sprung hub disc design with Marcel cushion
• Full face organic friction
• Light pedal effort
• Smooth street characteristics
• 450 Torque capacity
• Release bearing and alignment tool included
1 249.95T
GM/Mopar Pressure plate bolt, Set of 6 - ARP bolts also available 1 16.95T
SST round shifter handle for 1962-1970 Mopar B body with console and TREMEC TKO.
(Add SLM-ADAPRH-C) Triple chrome plated and Made in USA
1 159.95T
Adapter, SST round handle to 1962-1970 Mopar B body console with TREMEC TKO 1 0.00T
Classic style 5 speed shift knob, white. 3/6"-16 thread w/locknut 1 29.95T
Shifter boot for 1962-1970 Mopar B body using SST round shifter handle. High quality
reproduction.
1 79.99T
Chrome shift boot trim bezel for Mopar round handle or pistol grip shifter boots. High quality
reproduction.
1 41.94T
Reproduction pedal set for Mopar B body, 1966-1970. Includes brake and clutch pedal,
kingpin, housing, pedal pads, hardware and installation instructions. Made in the USA by
SST!
1 299.95T
Complete hydraulic clutch actuator system for 1966-1970 Mopar B body with SST TREMEC
TKO 5 speed. Includes:
• Pedal connection and all other hardware
• No-guesswork fabricated firewall mount for master cylinder
• Fluid reservoir and supply hose
• Braided steel pressure line
• High quality Wilwood master cylinder
• Super HD FTE concentric slave cylinder
• CSC mounting retainer (will be installed here if ordered with transmission)
• Instructions
1 649.95T
Wilwood EXP 600 Plus Super High-Temp Racing Brake Fluid 290-6209, DOT 4, Super
Hi-Temp, 626 Degrees Fahrenheit, 16.9 fluid oz. Bottle
1 21.95T
Pennzoil® Synchromesh Gear Oil 3 pack. Synchromesh Fluid is designed to offer optimal
protection and corrosion resistance.
1 36.00T
Page 3
QUOTE
Date
4/23/2018
Quotation #
sd6f585
Sale Rep Jeff
Total
Subtotal
Sales Tax (0.0%)
- 15% Restock fee on ALL returns
- Returned Material Authorization number (RMA) REQUIRED for all returns
- No refunds on special order or used parts
Warranty Info - www.shiftsst.com/warranty
Silver Sport Transmissions is your one stop solution for powertrain conversions!
• SST PerfectFit™ TREMEC 5 & 6 speed conversions
• SST mulit speed A41 automatic overdrive
• GM and Pace Performance crate engines and accessories
• GM 12 bolt and Ford 9" axle kits
• EPAS Performance Electric Power Steering
• FAST Shipping
• EXCELLENT customer service
• POSITIVE ONLINE REVIEWS with many listed on Facebook
1-844-609-8187 865-609-8187
Web: www.shiftsst.com E-Mail: info@shiftsst.com
2250 Stock Creek Blvd
Rockford TN 37853
Description Qty Total
SUBTOTAL - Includes all items listed 6,388.48
Forum Discount -319.42
Shipping & Handling Fees 350.00T
Page 4 $6,419.06
$6,419.06

More strip down today kinda on the fence about the manual tranny expensive

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 21, 2018, 10:59:40 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 21, 2018, 09:52:08 PM
Thats 2 vote for a 4 speed anyone have any info on brewers performance

You'll be dropping $4K USD + for a Brewers rebuilt 4spd set up... not worth it IMHO (respected vendor/quality components, but outdated application wise), consider a 5 or 6 spd Tremec TKO600 or T56 6spd, for about the same coin, you'll get more components, a better transmission, and a more versatile car in the end.... RPM, mileage and fun factor wise

I'd recommend Silver Sport Transmission (SST) in Tenn.

I second the 5 speed conversion   , will stop all your overheating issues also   :Twocents:

Quote from: moparstuart on April 24, 2018, 08:13:23 AM

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 21, 2018, 10:59:40 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 21, 2018, 09:52:08 PM
Thats 2 vote for a 4 speed anyone have any info on brewers performance

You'll be dropping $4K USD + for a Brewers rebuilt 4spd set up... not worth it IMHO (respected vendor/quality components, but outdated application wise), consider a 5 or 6 spd Tremec TKO600 or T56 6spd, for about the same coin, you'll get more components, a better transmission, and a more versatile car in the end.... RPM, mileage and fun factor wise

I'd recommend Silver Sport Transmission (SST) in Tenn.

I second the 5 speed conversion   , will stop all your overheating issues also   :Twocents:

I would have Jeff at SST quote out the T56 6spd, it should come out close or maybe a few bucks cheaper than the 5 spd TKO...

If the OP wants to shave a few bucks off he could source his own 4 spd pedals, and eliminate the hyd TOB from the TKO package, but having done TKO's with mechanical linkage and hyd TOB's, it's a day and night comparison, IMHO I wouldn't touch mechanical linkage in a swap anymore...

Ok found this on Kijiji a complete set.  Guy said its out of a 1962 440, I think that would fit mine 1970 440 anythoughts

Tremec 5 speed TK0600.64 Transmission for sale. Complete hydraulic clutch assembly - complete with reservoir and master cylinder. Chrysler Big Block CNC aluminum bell housing. Chrysler Big Block Billet Steel flywheel. Track slayer stage 1 ceramic clutch kit. Installation manuals and receipts. Approximately 1200 miles on system. Used for street only - not abused. Transmission drive shift yoke. Shifter stick complete with boot.

Cooooooool.  You'll need the pistol grip for sure though.  :2thumbs:

Seeing if it fits  :scratchchin: and no pistol grip I really like the 69 brown ball with the long shifter

Maybe ask why he took it out of his car in the first place ??

Seemed very honest said he hooked it up to his 680 hp 440, said it had too much of a cam and when he drove the car just jerked way too much in the the first 2 gears, hard to drive.

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 24, 2018, 03:23:18 PM

Quote from: moparstuart on April 24, 2018, 08:13:23 AM

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 21, 2018, 10:59:40 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 21, 2018, 09:52:08 PM
Thats 2 vote for a 4 speed anyone have any info on brewers performance

You'll be dropping $4K USD + for a Brewers rebuilt 4spd set up... not worth it IMHO (respected vendor/quality components, but outdated application wise), consider a 5 or 6 spd Tremec TKO600 or T56 6spd, for about the same coin, you'll get more components, a better transmission, and a more versatile car in the end.... RPM, mileage and fun factor wise

I'd recommend Silver Sport Transmission (SST) in Tenn.

I second the 5 speed conversion   , will stop all your overheating issues also   :Twocents:

I would have Jeff at SST quote out the T56 6spd, it should come out close or maybe a few bucks cheaper than the 5 spd TKO...

If the OP wants to shave a few bucks off he could source his own 4 spd pedals, and eliminate the hyd TOB from the TKO package, but having done TKO's with mechanical linkage and hyd TOB's, it's a day and night comparison, IMHO I wouldn't touch mechanical linkage in a swap anymore...

i love my 6 speed but it was alot of cutting  , I said 5 speed because its almost a bolt in , just a little massage here and there No cutting .

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 24, 2018, 07:24:02 PM
Ok found this on Kijiji a complete set.  Guy said its out of a 1962 440, I think that would fit mine 1970 440 anythoughts

Tremec 5 speed TK0600.64 Transmission for sale. Complete hydraulic clutch assembly - complete with reservoir and master cylinder. Chrysler Big Block CNC aluminum bell housing. Chrysler Big Block Billet Steel flywheel. Track slayer stage 1 ceramic clutch kit. Installation manuals and receipts. Approximately 1200 miles on system. Used for street only - not abused. Transmission drive shift yoke. Shifter stick complete with boot.

with this you wont need a manual trans floor either , just one square hole in the top of the automatic tunnel , if you can steal it for 2500 or so its a good deal 

Sean and I went to take some measurements from 2 real Daytona's rear window and nose cone setup from a private collection.  Super nice guy letting us dig around his cars.  

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 24, 2018, 08:45:32 PM
Seeing if it fits  :scratchchin: and no pistol grip I really like the 69 brown ball with the long shifter

From the tailshaft mods and assorted other parts, it looks like an American Powertrain TKO....IMHO I'd pass on it

So I bit the bullet and got the Tremec TKO 600 from Redcliff Alberta, which is about 350 miles from where I live.  Timing was good because I was in actually already going to Taber Alberta for the Policeman Ball.  Anyways it was about $3700 all in, thats about $2900 USA.  He paid few years back $5200 USA.  Very nice older guy says maybe 800 miles on it. Cross my fingers.  P.S. the center mount is were all B body Mopars shifters are located according to SST transmissions.

unless your car is a manual trans already, you might have an issue with the snout of the input shaft going in the center of the crankshaft. If yours is an automatic crankshaft, the center hole is not drilled wide enough or deep enough for a manual trans input shaft

Yes it is that a big job ?

So heres some pics from Seans facebook, Jesus I hired the right guy.

Quote from: A383Wing on April 29, 2018, 08:22:07 PM
unless your car is a manual trans already, you might have an issue with the snout of the input shaft going in the center of the crankshaft. If yours is an automatic crankshaft, the center hole is not drilled wide enough or deep enough for a manual trans input shaft

Doesn't matter when you use a TKO, the input shaft is short, you need to use a roller bearing in the crank register, even if the crank is drilled/bushed for a manual

More pics if anyone is considering buying an old mopar please except the worst.  Wow I never had any idea how rusty this was  

More pics, Sean is spending the entire week on the car coming up.

Final results

There's that dash uncovered again...  :brickwall:

I was going to say he should do this.. but looks like it's toooo late !

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 29, 2018, 09:07:43 PM

Quote from: A383Wing on April 29, 2018, 08:22:07 PM
unless your car is a manual trans already, you might have an issue with the snout of the input shaft going in the center of the crankshaft. If yours is an automatic crankshaft, the center hole is not drilled wide enough or deep enough for a manual trans input shaft

Doesn't matter when you use a TKO, the input shaft is short, you need to use a roller bearing in the crank register, even if the crank is drilled/bushed for a manual

Ok, didn't know that, my bad

Looks likeit's coming along well :2thumbs: :popcrn:

Thanks this car is stressing me out beyond belief.  Did not expect so much work.   :rotz:

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 29, 2018, 09:07:43 PM

Quote from: A383Wing on April 29, 2018, 08:22:07 PM
unless your car is a manual trans already, you might have an issue with the snout of the input shaft going in the center of the crankshaft. If yours is an automatic crankshaft, the center hole is not drilled wide enough or deep enough for a manual trans input shaft

Doesn't matter when you use a TKO, the input shaft is short, you need to use a roller bearing in the crank register, even if the crank is drilled/bushed for a manual

yes get the Roller bearing from a dodge dakota  works fantastic  
And if i knew you were doing so much work to the floor i would have seconded mikes choice of a 6 speed  , I picked up a viper six speed for mine off craigs list for 800.00 buck only 14 k miles on it  works fantastic .

Quote from: birdsandbees on April 29, 2018, 10:12:24 PM
There's that dash uncovered again...  :brickwall:

That's OK, by the time he's done rebuilding everything else, the dash will be last on the list because of all the grinding slag, welding sparks, rust, dust, etc, etc that it's accumulated....  :slap: :icon_smile_big:

Over the last fifteen years or so,I have been buying Mopars from Down south or out west to avoid the major reconstruction that is required from most rustbelt cars. It is worth every dime of the extra cost on the buy in and the shipping!

Was he pulling the engine using a carb plate on an ALUMINIUM INTAKE???   :o :o :o  Gutsy move man!

Quote from: AKcharger on April 30, 2018, 09:10:50 PM
Was he pulling the engine using a carb plate on an ALUMINIUM INTAKE???   :o :o :o  Gutsy move man!

ROFL not too sure

Went by shop maybe I should not have, dropped off the Tremec and stress took over.  Kinda felt like having your German Shephard you have had for 7 years having surgery and you walking in half way in the operation.  the 727 is a 1969 am selling on kijiji Ikes WTF !!! :o

it's going to be nice, but man, i'm seeing enough bank going into it, to have bought a real one

definitely making me afraid to take mine apart now, lol

Ya i'll be into to it for about 75K cdn,thats about 58k USA

wow, way less than i would have expected, especially with the cost to get some of the pieces north of the border.

car was $35K, engine 8K, tranny 4K, body parts 6K, and Sean (get this) is getting 21K. Yes Sean is only charging 21K, everyone else wanted 40 to 60K. He works full time at an Edmonton body shop and nights weekends at his place, I think he should go full bore on restorations on muscle cars.  Since my car is on his facebook he started getting lots of requests for restorations. Anyway he's my golden goose. He know his stuff thats for sure and say he loves restoring Mopars. I dropped off the Tremec he almost immediately said I need a new clutch and trim the flywheel. Here is his facebook page say nice things.

https://www.facebook.com/anythingmuscle/

might have to smuggle him into the states to do some work, lol

Don't feel too bad,I will have 30 grand just in the Hemi engine on my Daytona clone!

In August 2017 Sean came by, said he would have her done by my birthday 7 May.  Busted his balls said he got 8 days left lol. Don't think its going to happen.

Quote from: birdsandbees on April 29, 2018, 10:12:24 PM
There's that dash uncovered again...  :brickwall:

I was going to say he should do this.. but looks like it's toooo late !

So what did you do here? Just adding some strength?

Ya the dash well maybe a woodgrain upgrade  :icon_smile_big:, the car is on stilts and I just had to buy a new clutch and pressure plate, got the flywheel resurfaced, and the dash being not covered is the last of my WORRIES.  Purchased a new shifter lever from sst (they said I should get a pistol grip, no wrong year) because the one with the Tremec I purchased is straight, got a new brown 4 speed ball from year one, only place on the planet that sells them. anyways the stress is getting well, stressful.  

Www.megapartsusa.com sell that shift ball! And a ton on other stuff far more reasonably than year none.

Okay, I'll stop ragging you about the dash. Just thought I'd save you the $800 for a 5 piece bezel kit and the unobtainium good dash pad prices.

Quote from: birdsandbees on May 02, 2018, 09:31:14 AM
Okay, I'll stop ragging you about the dash. Just thought I'd save you the $800 for a 5 piece bezel kit and the unobtainium good dash pad prices.

Sorry man this thing is consuming my bank account lol

Then why let other stuff get damaged that is going to cost you more???  :shruggy:

Quote from: Charger-Bodie on May 02, 2018, 09:03:57 AM
Www.megapartsusa.com sell that shift ball! And a ton on other stuff far more reasonably than year none.

Brewers Performance has them too

Quote from: birdsandbees on May 02, 2018, 11:44:40 AM
Then why let other stuff get damaged that is going to cost you more???  :shruggy:

fair enough will get her covered up

Say, while you're at it, are you giving much thought to going to power brakes...and possibly front discs?

Thats too expensive they are $3000 plus

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on May 02, 2018, 06:10:56 PM
Thats too expensive they are $3000 plus

True - and it's also something you can do later, should the muse fall upon you.  :2thumbs:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on May 02, 2018, 06:10:56 PM
Thats too expensive they are $3000 plus

Converting front brakes to any of the 1970 and newer disk setups is not expensive.     This kit offered is the later 1970's style sliding caliper.   Very easy setup to work on.     The kit requires 15" wheels for clearance.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/1962-74-Mopar-B-E-Body-Front-Disc-Brake-Kit,3793.html

Pressure plate, clutch, and pedals arrived, flywheel resurfaced.

More progress on the car, it was supposed to be done by now, but with all the hidden rust its hopefully August now.  Heres some picks of the rear floor pan area that has been patched.  Asked if I should just get a new rear floor pan Sean said its not that bad just 2 patches.  Got the shifter from SST and the ball from year one.  The shifter was a course thread but the ball was a fine thread.  Took it too my dads place he quickly tapped it out fits perfect now.  The chrome exhaust tips that I was going to replace because they looked like crap were washed and cleaned.  Now look super good saved some money.  Kinda realized got the car in August last year, was at Pro Stock for about 1 month get new motor, been a Clarke Customs since November,  been in a shop 2x more than at home. 

Heres a couple of picks of the Tremec 600 TKO picked up in Red Cliff Alberta last week.  Also the rear brake cable which this car never came with.  Think if its going to be a manual might need a parking brake.

Almost finished the rust and body panel replacements.  There will no zero rust once Sean is complete.  Then he sats he stripping the entire car down to bare metal.

Here is the Dakota Roller Bearing you need    Pilot Bearing – Dakota roller bearing – MP#53009180 or custom. Fits large hole, crank drilling for stick is not required. Tremecs all have 3/4" pilot like regular 4spd 

cheers  :cheers: just picked one up at local dodge dealer.

Had to replace the entire rocker on drivers side.

Awesome build, going to be a cool car when its done.

Nice to see another member from Alberta.  :2thumbs:

Well Sean hit the grinder hard on the car today.

Think the nose cone was attached to a modified 70 bumper as per the previous pic

Kinda in a dilemma now, Sean has taken the nose cone apart, ground it down, now he thinks it's a real superbird cone.  Say he can modify it, but thinking it's better to get a fiberglass Daytona cone and save Sean a week of modifications.  Wondering if the it's a real Superbird cone  :shruggy: is it worth much any idea thoughts ???????????????

Also if its a Superbird cone will I need new headlight buckets if a get a new figerglass Daytona cone.   :brickwall:

Fenders have quite a bit of patchs and bondo but not too bad, easy repair Sean tells me.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on May 21, 2018, 06:56:17 PM
Also if its a Superbird cone will I need new headlight buckets if a get a new figerglass Daytona cone.   :brickwall:

Looks like a 'Bird nose.  Now, if I recall correctly, the headlight doors are the same for both S-Birds and Daytonas.  Not sure about the headlight buckets though...but I'll just bet someone will chime in soon.

Yea think I need a Daytona fiberglass one from aaaquality figerglass stinger.  Sean says 2 to 3 weeks reworking this one.  But it's real metal maybe someone will want it if its a real superbird cone with some modifications that need reversing  :shruggy:.  

Ordered a nose cone from aarquality fiberglass cross my fingers, said up to 10 days to make another week to ship. was $700

https://www.aarqualityfiberglass.com/products/nose-dodge-daytona

Well I thought the fenders were in good shape, guess again.

So the doors are now rust free.  Also the fender scoops not too sure how to check if they are real or reproduction.

If you run a mini E wheel of some sort reversed over the fender edge top inside that would get rid of those hammer marks and create more of the natural 70 fender curve. (https://s22.postimg.cc/w833t4drl/mini_e_wheel.jpg)

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on May 27, 2018, 12:49:53 AM
So the doors are now rust free.  Also the fender scoops not too sure how to check if they are real or reproduction.

Real scoops have the part numbers molded into the bottom.   :Twocents:

So the body panels are all on and rust taken out and repaired.  Now it's the alignment of the panels, think it's moving along nicely.

Sean is making his own wing support bracket.

 :popcrn: nice work :2thumbs:

The wing supports seem to be a little wide where they go on the bottom side of the 1/4
Do you have something between the support and the 1/4 ?
I do not think the 1/4 is that flat that wide and if you crank down the bolts for the wing it might leave a mark you could see on the top side  :shruggy:

Not too sure we are going by the fella who has the private collection including 2 Daytonas to get a template of the trunk and rear plug will mention it to him. We will see if the scoops are real because he is missing a set or real scoops maybe wants to trade. 

 :o wow what a collection, super nice guy allowing us to get a template of the rear plug and trunk.  

I got these for my car
They are called wing washers
Go between 1/4 and brace
Helps spread the force over a greater area

Yikes were do I get a set of those probably need a set

Looks like Sean negated your need for wing washers by putting that top plate on the set of braces he built.  Others (more knowledgeable than I...) will likely chime in.

I recall one thread in which someone with a set of fibreglass wing washers sealed the top of the inside quarter panel with Saran Wrap (?), then filled the washer with Bondo or fibreglass, creating a much more solid top brace.

Quote from: Lighthorseman on June 01, 2018, 07:57:19 AM
Looks like Sean negated your need for wing washers by putting that top plate on the set of braces he built.  Others (more knowledgeable than I...) will likely chime in.

I recall one thread in which someone with a set of fibreglass wing washers sealed the top of the inside quarter panel with Saran Wrap (?), then filled the washer with Bondo or fibreglass, creating a much more solid top brace.

Agreed the plate Sean put on top of your wing brackets is his version of a wing washer and will work perfectly for you , Unless your worried about the aesthetics .  just go with his they look way  stronger then fiber glass option and the correct steal ones are expensive  

I asked last night his response was " I have incorporated something similar into the wing support"  I will figure out what he did and post.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 01, 2018, 02:00:42 PM
I asked last night his response was " I have incorporated something similar into the wing support"  I will figure out what he did and post.

you already posted it   ,   this is it 

He made the wing support wide enough to support the whole wing upright, and the quarter panel

Quote from: 70 sublime on May 31, 2018, 09:40:44 PM
I got these for my car
They are called wing washers
Go between 1/4 and brace
Helps spread the force over a greater area

Agreed... I'd be concerned with those fabricated plates flattening the crown of the fenders when the wing is tightened into place, and the sharp corners "poking" up into the skin, making for an unpleasant amount of rework, esp after paint/decal where most novice wingcar builders find out the errors of their ways, the factory wing washer contours with the shape of the qtr, front to back/side to side so that when it's tightened down, no distortion to the qtr skin takes place, all the corners are rounded, all the actual bolt areas are raised bosses, so that any qtr skin distortion is directly under the wing base only, not transmitted thru the surrounding qtr skin... I'd use at a minimum some fiberglass repro wing washer, steel are preferred as you can weld the lip to the trunk lip edge as intended and further secure the washer from movement/stress that will distort the qtr skin, if you use the fiberglass repros you could rivet/bolt them to the trunk lip as well, if your set on using the ones Sean fabricated, I'd suggest a little more tweaking is desired to avoid future qtr skin issues...

here's some factory and steel wingwashers repros to assist you in your research...

Mike

one more...

ROFL well I called Sean and discussed the braces and the inserts.  Well he got pissed off and said it's already addressed, really pissed lol.  Kinda like Michael Angelo been criticized about the  Sistine Chapel. Boy he was so mad heard him throw a wrench (no B.S. he throw a wrench when I was on the phone). But I get it, think he's put his heart a soul into my car.  Lot's of street cred for him and his business when she done. I don't know who hes addressed the sharp edges making distortion but will check on it.  Thanks for the info and constructive criticism.   :2thumbs:

Quote from: DAY CLONA on June 01, 2018, 09:00:14 PM

Quote from: 70 sublime on May 31, 2018, 09:40:44 PM
I got these for my car
They are called wing washers
Go between 1/4 and brace
Helps spread the force over a greater area

Agreed... I'd be concerned with those fabricated plates flattening the crown of the fenders when the wing is tightened into place, and the sharp corners "poking" up into the skin, making for an unpleasant amount of rework, esp after paint/decal where most novice wingcar builders find out the errors of their ways, the factory wing washer contours with the shape of the qtr, front to back/side to side so that when it's tightened down, no distortion to the qtr skin takes place, all the corners are rounded, all the actual bolt areas are raised bosses, so that any qtr skin distortion is directly under the wing base only, not transmitted thru the surrounding qtr skin... I'd use at a minimum some fiberglass repro wing washer, steel are preferred as you can weld the lip to the trunk lip edge as intended and further secure the washer from movement/stress that will distort the qtr skin, if you use the fiberglass repros you could rivet/bolt them to the trunk lip as well, if your set on using the ones Sean fabricated, I'd suggest a little more tweaking is desired to avoid future qtr skin issues...

here's some factory and steel wingwashers repros to assist you in your research...

Mike

That is exactly what I was getting at when I brought it up
Thinking it would bend the top of the 1/4 panel when the bolts were tightened down

Ok Ok will make sure thanks fellas

replaced heater core

 :coolgleamA:

I will check with Sean take some pics of what he did.

Got the engine and new manual set in the car, working on the trunk for the Daytona as well.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 01, 2018, 10:59:20 PM
Ok Ok will make sure thanks fellas

yours are fine the way he built them mine ,on my convertible look similar and we have had 4 people sitting up on the wing with no problems to the top of the quarter panel 

Quote from: moparstuart on June 04, 2018, 08:01:27 AM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 01, 2018, 10:59:20 PM
Ok Ok will make sure thanks fellas

yours are fine the way he built them mine ,on my convertible look similar and we have had 4 people sitting up on the wing with no problems to the top of the quarter panel  

Your comparing a 70 Plymouth top qtr to a 68-70 Charger qtr, 2 different animals, same with the wing washers, the Bird washer is relatively flat compared to the arc in a Daytona wing washer, the OP has the final say if he feels comfortable with his bodyman's choice/decision, just that when/if the shit hits the fan later, who eats the repair?, who feigns ignorance?.... better to be fore warned and retroactive, rather than experience 20/20 hindsight

Sean has finished mounting the Tremec did not realized the clutch pedal need modification and the center console needed a "mount".

must have been where he mounted the slave / clutch master cylinder that caused the modification  ?  i didnt have to modify my clutch pedal at all  ?   :shruggy: my kit came with a boot and the rod went right thru the factory hole/ opening in the firewall .

 :shruggy:

yeah mine came with a reinforment plate and bracket and mounted right on the factory hole directly below the brake master   , I did mount my reservoir about where your did

tight fit but here is the slave / master 

My mirror finally arrived today from classic industries, beautiful shape (was on back order for about 4 months).  Had to send 2 others back.  They kept sending me the "non remote passenger side mirror" which is complete smooth on the back side, this is a "remote passenger side mirror" with cars that came with a drivers side remote inside the door. This has the V shape on the back and much thicker.  Should not complain classic industries apologized and send this one for free.

Went by the shop, just waiting for the nose cone to arrive from Florida.  Sean asked me if on Canada day 1 July if he could trailer the car to the Mopar car show in Leduc.  Said it would be in primer ready to paint.  I said if its primer he could have it for the afternoon. Think it would be kinda cool to show his work off, sitting on a trailer. We also talked about the fiberglass z brackets and nose cone.  we have decided to reinforce them with a metal skin (z brackets).  And metal inside the nose cone to make it stronger.  Will take pics on what we decide. 

Worked on the trunk supports that needed modification for the longer Daytona trunk arms.  Also the trunk is been shaped from a template of a real Daytona.  

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 11, 2018, 04:49:49 PM
Worked on the trunk supports that needed modification for the longer Daytona trunk arms.  Also the trunk is been shaped from a template of a real Daytona.  

Help me understand why this modification was needed ? :scratchchin:

These supports were not modified on original Daytonas or 500s and I've never seen this done on any other clone.

Have the wheel houses been modified for bigger tires?

Or am I missing something here?  :shruggy:

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on June 11, 2018, 09:13:39 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 11, 2018, 04:49:49 PM
Worked on the trunk supports that needed modification for the longer Daytona trunk arms.  Also the trunk is been shaped from a template of a real Daytona.  

Help me understand why this modification was needed ? :scratchchin:

These supports were not modified on original Daytonas or 500s and I've never seen this done on any other clone.

Have the wheel houses been modified for bigger tires?

Or am I missing something here?  :shruggy:

me too i have one clone and we don t have modified this.

It could be that the truck lid seaports  my be off with all the new parts. The whole back have of the was taken part.

I think he originally hooked it up with the old trunk, since he made the template from an original Daytona every thing changed.  He even cut the vega plug too short as per pic.  it's all been modified to look correctly from the real Daytona template.  

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on June 12, 2018, 03:48:24 AM

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on June 11, 2018, 09:13:39 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 11, 2018, 04:49:49 PM
Worked on the trunk supports that needed modification for the longer Daytona trunk arms.  Also the trunk is been shaped from a template of a real Daytona.  

Help me understand why this modification was needed ? :scratchchin:

These supports were not modified on original Daytonas or 500s and I've never seen this done on any other clone.

Have the wheel houses been modified for bigger tires?

Or am I missing something here?  :shruggy:

me too i have one clone and we don t have modified this.

Ok just spoke with Sean you guys are correct they should not need any modification, mine did because of the "dog's breakfast" condition it was in when he got it.  Yours are ok to use don't worry  :2thumbs:

The trunk hinge brackets were not "modified" they were all hacked up from whom ever worked on the car to turn it into a Daytona and now I have located the new ones in the correct place. 

Yes unfortunately I went off of the old trunk lid and what pictures I could find on the internet.  Now with the template taken from a real Daytona I will be making a new piece that will be from window edge to trunk edge rather than trying to fill in a small strip and having to work it to the proper shape.

welcome to the board, sean. impressive work you've been doing.

a shame you're not closer, when it's time to do some metal work on mine.

Some light reading for you guys...

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,48725.0.html  <Best Daytona Restoration Thread Ever !


http://wwnboa.org/daytdetails.htm


http://wwnboa.org/daytdetpt2.htm

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on June 12, 2018, 06:55:52 PM
Yes unfortunately I went off of the old trunk lid and what pictures I could find on the internet.  Now with the template taken from a real Daytona I will be making a new piece that will be from window edge to trunk edge rather than trying to fill in a small strip and having to work it to the proper shape.

Holly Molly is that Sean, now I don't need to answer anymore questions.  :icon_smile_big:

Quote from: moparstuart on June 08, 2018, 09:43:55 AM
must have been where he mounted the slave / clutch master cylinder that caused the modification  ?  i didnt have to modify my clutch pedal at all  ?   :shruggy: my kit came with a boot and the rod went right thru the factory hole/ opening in the firewall .

Due to where the steering column and the headers are located and the style of this slave cylinder I was trying to keep the install simple and easy without having multiple mechanical linkages as well as using the repo clutch pedal.

Quote from: moparstuart on June 08, 2018, 11:33:48 AM
tight fit but here is the slave / master 

You have a totally different slave cylinder and an extension on the threaded rod coming out of the slave cylinder.  That is the two big differences.

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on June 11, 2018, 09:13:39 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 11, 2018, 04:49:49 PM
Worked on the trunk supports that needed modification for the longer Daytona trunk arms.  Also the trunk is been shaped from a template of a real Daytona.  

No modification.  The previous trunk hinge brackets were cut to all heck and had to be replaced.  So after a few hours of measuring and mocking up the new hinge brackets are located in the correct location.

Help me understand why this modification was needed ? :scratchchin:

These supports were not modified on original Daytonas or 500s and I've never seen this done on any other clone.

Have the wheel houses been modified for bigger tires?

Or am I missing something here?  :shruggy:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 12, 2018, 08:58:57 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on June 12, 2018, 06:55:52 PM
Yes unfortunately I went off of the old trunk lid and what pictures I could find on the internet.  Now with the template taken from a real Daytona I will be making a new piece that will be from window edge to trunk edge rather than trying to fill in a small strip and having to work it to the proper shape.

Holly Molly is that Sean, now I don't need to answer anymore questions.  :icon_smile_big:

Yes it sure is.  I have finally figured this site out  :cheers:

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on June 12, 2018, 09:21:07 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on June 12, 2018, 08:58:57 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on June 12, 2018, 06:55:52 PM
Yes unfortunately I went off of the old trunk lid and what pictures I could find on the internet.  Now with the template taken from a real Daytona I will be making a new piece that will be from window edge to trunk edge rather than trying to fill in a small strip and having to work it to the proper shape.

Holly Molly is that Sean, now I don't need to answer anymore questions.  :icon_smile_big:

Yes it sure is.  I have finally figured this site out  :cheers:

Quit playing around on the internet and get back to work on the car  :icon_smile_big:

Nice work Sean  :cheers:  :2thumbs:

Nose cone came from StingerAAA today.  No damage, thought it would be packaged with more bubble wrap thou.  Checked the thickness out and was very surprise how solid it is,  super thick.  Shipping label said 50 lbs. Heres some pics.

When I have dealt with the guys at Stinger they have always treated me right, I would use them again for sure.

Dropped off the Stinger nose cone at the shop today and the new mancini high flow water pump (help with the cooling problem) also package the old steel nose cone to ship off to a new home.

I don't see the tabs in the headlight openings for the special bolts to hold the headlight buckets in.....

Quote from: A383Wing on June 15, 2018, 02:47:35 AM
I don't see the tabs in the headlight openings for the special bolts to hold the headlight buckets in.....

There's a lot to be desired in the Stinger nosecones.... I don't know if they solved their issue of the cone being "too small" (top to bottom where it meets the hood edge to the lower valance lower edge) most guys had to section it along the leading edge on the sides, stretch it to fit, then re-glass the open seam, I know Stinger was putting coremat (know as a "fiberglass diaper" in the glassing industry) as re-enforcement and cheap build up in the upper and lower skin between the head light/Z bar mounting tab area, unfortunately as the cone aged, the coremat transferred thru the fiberglass to show the "ghost" outline of the coremat on the upper skin between the headlight bucket,...of course this only happened after you painted the car

yay @ black kitties.

the little one here thinks she rules the roost

good to see the old cone was an easy sell

Sean working working of the inside of the trunk, since they are shorter than a regular 1969 trunk.  Also picked up some 4 inch linear actuators for the headlights, still not sure how to get them to work.  Anyone out there have a clone with an actuator with pics ???

 :scratchchin:  I would think there are three wires. One is a ground and two are power wires one for up and one for  down. They didn't come with a wiring diagram?  :scratchchin:  :popcrn:

Not too sure, they are 12 volt with a automotive rating.

Sean finished the day by getting the trunk finished wow very happy  :2thumbs:

Nice  :2thumbs:

Very nice work, Sean.   :2thumbs: 

PM sent.

Quote from: Lighthorseman on June 17, 2018, 08:46:21 AM
Very nice work, Sean.   :2thumbs: 

PM sent.

Thank you

Quote from: Lighthorseman on June 17, 2018, 08:46:21 AM
Very nice work, Sean.   :2thumbs:  

PM sent.

I said it before, I will say it again "he's my golden goose".

The rear plug is now finished onto the nose cone.

More parts arrived today, reverse light for under the dash, gasket set for under the hood, new brake lines, and compartment separator with insulation (lot better than a piece of wood) lol.

Like I said in an earlier post, I was going to get the fiberglass z bracket re-enforced.  Sean has re-enforced them with metal.  :2thumbs:

The Nose Cone Grill arrived today very happy with the quality.

Nose cone is finally on or getting ready to be installed.

The nose cone from Stinger needs to be built up was not long enough on the sides.

Everyone I have ever seen use a Stinger nosecone has had to do modifications to the sides of the nosecone to get it to fit the fenders and lower valence pan.

I will email them its not the end of the world but they should know

Also Sean is keeping the templates for the z brackets and trunk to make metal z brackets and a Daytona trunk if anyone is interested.  :scratchchin: They are copies of the originals  He's one the the honest guys I have ever met.

z brackets need the turn signal holes cut out, before you can no longer get to them to do so

Yes Sean will cut them them out.  The z brackets are in there for the fitting and placement.

The rear portion of your Z bar where the latch tray bolts to is slightly parallel to the bottom edge, not as angled as in your pic, your latch tray will not fit properly, if at all?


Mike

I will tell Sean thanks for the info

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on July 02, 2018, 08:04:47 AM
Yes Sean will cut them them out.  The z brackets are in there for the fitting and placement.

The z brackets I have made are not finished as of yet.  I am still mocking up the new fiberglass nose cone for fitment and will do all finishing touches prior to final body work and primer.

Quote from: DAY CLONA on July 02, 2018, 08:21:02 AM
The rear portion of your Z bar where the latch tray bolts to is parallel to the bottom edge, not angled as in your pic, your latch tray will not fit properly, if at all?


Mike

I have access to two original Daytonas and have taken all measurements from them as to ensure yhist everything I am doing is 100% correct.  But thanks for the info.

I went back a few pages and did not see these
They are brackets that bolt to the Charger bumper bolt holes in the car frame and come straight forward and the bottom of the Z bracket bolts to them

These are the ones that came with my parts ( back of metal parts in picture U channel shaped but have a step in them as the car frame has a step in the same location )

Quote from: 70 sublime on July 02, 2018, 06:42:57 PM
I went back a few pages and did not see these
They are brackets that bolt to the Charger bumper bolt holes in the car frame and come straight forward and the bottom of the Z bracket bolts to them

These are the ones that came with my parts ( back of metal parts in picture U channel shaped but have a step in them as the car frame has a step in the same location )

This I know as well and have fabricated a set already and are bolted to the original bumper bracket location on the frame rail and the bottom of the z brackets.  Once again thanks for the info.

More work on the nose cone, Sean has re-enforced the nose cone inside, and expanded the fiberglass on the outside to look and fit properly.  Also the hood pin holes where in the wrong spot and have been welded shut.

Nose looks good now. But there is no excuse in supplying it as it was really. I was not really fit for purpose and you should not have to do what I would call fairly extensive reworking just to get it to fit the car it was designed for. You would expect to have to enlarge holes and finish edges etc.....but reshaping???? Typical aftermarket I'm afraid. Love following this thread and its nice to see her getting there.

Quote from: alfaitalia on July 12, 2018, 10:37:33 AM
Nose looks good now. But there is no excuse in supplying it as it was really. I was not really fit for purpose and you should not have to do what I would call fairly extensive reworking just to get it to fit the car it was designed for. You would expect to have to enlarge holes and finish edges etc.....but reshaping???? Typical aftermarket I'm afraid. Love following this thread and its nice to see her getting there.

Unfortunately this is the case with some aftermarket parts and especially fiberglass.  I do agree that it should have had a better first right out of the box but that was not the case with this one.  I however do intend on sending pics to the supplier and see what they have to say.

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on July 12, 2018, 10:51:01 AM

Quote from: alfaitalia on July 12, 2018, 10:37:33 AM
Nose looks good now. But there is no excuse in supplying it as it was really. I was not really fit for purpose and you should not have to do what I would call fairly extensive reworking just to get it to fit the car it was designed for. You would expect to have to enlarge holes and finish edges etc.....but reshaping???? Typical aftermarket I'm afraid. Love following this thread and its nice to see her getting there.

Unfortunately this is the case with some aftermarket parts and especially fiberglass.  I do agree that it should have had a better first right out of the box but that was not the case with this one.  I however do intend on sending pics to the supplier and see what they have to say.

They won't care, they've been making this nose for about 10 yrs+, if they haven't changed it by now, they won't in the future, that's why I warned you guys earlier in the thread about using the Stinger nose, along with the other issues it will/could develop after install/aging...

FYI when you drill the hood pin bezels the Daytona screw orientation is a "+" configuration on the hood, not an "X"

Quote from: DAY CLONA on July 12, 2018, 01:14:15 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on July 12, 2018, 10:51:01 AM

Quote from: alfaitalia on July 12, 2018, 10:37:33 AM
Nose looks good now. But there is no excuse in supplying it as it was really. I was not really fit for purpose and you should not have to do what I would call fairly extensive reworking just to get it to fit the car it was designed for. You would expect to have to enlarge holes and finish edges etc.....but reshaping???? Typical aftermarket I'm afraid. Love following this thread and its nice to see her getting there.

Unfortunately this is the case with some aftermarket parts and especially fiberglass.  I do agree that it should have had a better first right out of the box but that was not the case with this one.  I however do intend on sending pics to the supplier and see what they have to say.

They won't care, they've been making this nose for about 10 yrs+, if they haven't changed it by now, they won't in the future, that's why I warned you guys earlier in the thread about using the Stinger nose, along with the other issues it will/could develop after install/aging...

FYI when you drill the hood pin bezels the Daytona screw orientation is a "+" configuration on the hood, not an "X"

If they have enough people saying something to them about it then there is always a possibility that they might.  In the long run it was a better choice than having to spend a countless hours trying to revamp the cobbled up metal one that was on it originally.

As for the hood pins and there stainless grommets I fo have pics but thanks for the info.

I dunno why stinger has that horizontal flange around the headlight openings. It ain't factory. Here's the nosecone molds I use molded straight from a Real Daytona...no horizontal flanges., and ya I'm in Canada.
(https://s33.postimg.cc/z9rjfjvxr/DAYTONA_PARTS_005.jpg)

Quote from: DonC1 on July 15, 2018, 08:24:42 PM
I dunno why stinger has that horizontal flange around the headlight openings. It ain't factory. Here's the nosecone molds I use molded straight from a Real Daytona...no horizontal flanges., and ya I'm in Canada.
(https://s33.postimg.cc/z9rjfjvxr/DAYTONA_PARTS_005.jpg)

Judging where the two moulds are put together is exactly where the seams are one the stinger nose cone. 

Exactly? whats the measurement across your nosecone top corner to top corner prior to the additional 'glass. I'll measure my mold for comparison.

Quote from: DonC1 on July 16, 2018, 01:49:27 AM
Exactly? whats the measurement across your nosecone top corner to top corner prior to the additional 'glass. I'll measure my mold for comparison.

It will be different now as I have already started reshaping the stinger nose cone.

 :popcrn:

Quote from: DonC1 on July 15, 2018, 08:24:42 PM
I dunno why stinger has that horizontal flange around the >>>>>>headlight openings.<<<<<< It ain't factory.






(https://s33.postimg.cc/z9rjfjvxr/DAYTONA_PARTS_005.jpg)

:scratchchin:

prepare the garage for the Daytona

More pics of car all the body metal works is done.

more and garage almost done

More pics.

Nice :2thumbs:

More pics coming along.

OK summer has slowed things down, Sean took the engine out of the car ready for primer.  Now on a side note, if anyone remember I hard a bad overheating problems, when I got the new engine. Think I figured it out, original this car had a 1977 block when I picked it up last year. so with 1977 block in the car I got a new water pump for the damn thing (later learned had a bad main bearing so I rebuilt a new engine).  Guy at NAPA at the counter says, what years your car ??? I say 1969 of course,  so he hands me a brand new 1969 water pump (not the housing).  I had no idea that a 1969 water flows in a different direction than a 1977 mopar 440.  So long story short when the 1970 block was built they put the 1977 water pump housing on the block.  Sean calls me up say the mancini has a drivers side lower outlet, yours, is a passenger outlet, but we will put the new "pump in the housing"  Something did not feel right, so I called Mancini the tech say "no that's the correct housing and pump for a 1970 block" .  Sh** looked at the directional fins on the pump and figured it out.  I'm a moron.  I have had no idea. had to get a new radiator after buying a different one when the engine (date code 1970 block) was built.  heres some pics of the different water pumps a 440 has.   Hopefully my it cures the issue. Also got a "quik fuel 850" guys say extra 40 horse power. Got rid of the eldbrock  :shruggy:  that pic of the engine is close to $20000 cdn.  DONT TELL MY WIFE.

Went by shop today, Sean has been busy, started priming the car and stripping the engine bay.

Engine bay getting ready for prep and paint, dash was also removed.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on September 09, 2018, 09:04:22 AM
dash was also removed.

a little late in the game... but,

LOL

Quote from: DAY CLONA on September 09, 2018, 10:57:01 AM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on September 09, 2018, 09:04:22 AM
dash was also removed.

a little late in the game... but,

It's never too late in the game!!!

It's never too late in the game!!!    :2thumbs:

For this poor dash it WAS the "last/longest yard", in my game book the vehicle is reduced to a bare shell before any body work, but I understand the shops mentality, it's a typical body shop, where vehicles are blown in and blown out with little regard to restoration work procedures, and the bottom line is the prime importance

Quote from: DAY CLONA on September 09, 2018, 10:06:31 PM


For this poor dash it WAS the "last/longest yard", in my game book the vehicle is reduced to a bare shell before any body work, but I understand the shops mentality, it's a typical body shop, where vehicles are blown in and blown out with little regard to restoration work procedures, and the bottom line is the prime importance

For your information it was the owners decision to keep it un the car until the last minute.  As always there has to be the one person that always has something negative to say about anything.  It's a dash it was always protected and always blown off and now it's out and will receive the treatment that so many of you have claimed it should have had.  If we all had deep pockets we would all have our dream car and if we all knew how to build a car then wouldn't have to pay others to build a special car for us such as bodyman that have been in the trade for many years and work on many molars and other makes over the years.

It is a treat for me to be building a Daytona even if it is a clone but we don't all have deep pockets that can afford to own an original Daytona and furthermore there were very few built.

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on September 09, 2018, 10:17:12 PM

Quote from: DAY CLONA on September 09, 2018, 10:06:31 PM


For this poor dash it WAS the "last/longest yard", in my game book the vehicle is reduced to a bare shell before any body work, but I understand the shops mentality, it's a typical body shop, where vehicles are blown in and blown out with little regard to restoration work procedures, and the bottom line is the prime importance

As always there has to be the one person that always has something negative to say about anything.  It's a dash it was always protected and always blown off and now it's out and will receive the treatment that so many of you have claimed it should have had.  If we all had deep pockets we would all have our dream car and if we all knew how to build a car then wouldn't have to pay others to build a special car for us such as bodyman that have been in the trade for many years and work on many molars and other makes over the years.

It is a treat for me to be building a Daytona even if it is a clone but we don't all have deep pockets that can afford to own an original Daytona and furthermore there were very few built.

  I will also add that it was never intended to go through such a thorough build until knowing that this particular car needed so much attention and that being panel replacement due to rust as well as fabricating panels that just aren't available or I'd they are the wait for them is considerably long.  So in the end it was a joint decision between the owner and myself as of recent to pull the window and the dash and now that it's out( the dash that is) poor wiring can be repaired as to not have any electrical fires this destroying this vehicle.

Engine bay was painted today.  Have new wiper motor, brake master cylinder is about to be delivered, got new washer reservoir, all the brake lines are also new.  The gas tank is also new.

Engine and tranny back in, pick up new drive shaft this week.

Wow its been almost 12 months since I started this restoration, I have never restored a car before always got one already done.  Had no idea how long it would take, I remember thinking it would take 6 weeks when I first seen the car.  Oh well it's been a good trip so far.  Some updates, having dash restored/painted, have rear end in with emergency brakes and new brake lines. New gas tank, basically ever panel replaced.  Sean is now on the "2nd primer coat" and "blocking".  Start painting the trunk next week. Then the car.  

Since my car is not real (clone) I was thinking of painting the wing intense orange. Not a big fan of White, Red is ok but love thoses high impact colors.

https://www.graphic-express.com/vinyl-colors-app-fluids/color-samples/standard-colors/color-sample-3m-intense-orange-134.html

Great work man. It's your car - do what you want with it.

Dane

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on September 09, 2018, 10:26:00 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on September 09, 2018, 10:17:12 PM

Quote from: DAY CLONA on September 09, 2018, 10:06:31 PM


For this poor dash it WAS the "last/longest yard", in my game book the vehicle is reduced to a bare shell before any body work, but I understand the shops mentality, it's a typical body shop, where vehicles are blown in and blown out with little regard to restoration work procedures, and the bottom line is the prime importance

As always there has to be the one person that always has something negative to say about anything.  It's a dash it was always protected and always blown off and now it's out and will receive the treatment that so many of you have claimed it should have had.  If we all had deep pockets we would all have our dream car and if we all knew how to build a car then wouldn't have to pay others to build a special car for us such as bodyman that have been in the trade for many years and work on many molars and other makes over the years.

It is a treat for me to be building a Daytona even if it is a clone but we don't all have deep pockets that can afford to own an original Daytona and furthermore there were very few built.

  I will also add that it was never intended to go through such a thorough build until knowing that this particular car needed so much attention and that being panel replacement due to rust as well as fabricating panels that just aren't available or I'd they are the wait for them is considerably long.  So in the end it was a joint decision between the owner and myself as of recent to pull the window and the dash and now that it's out( the dash that is) poor wiring can be repaired as to not have any electrical fires this destroying this vehicle.

I know how you feel, been in your shoes. Some people think that if your not going to do a $200,000 100 point show car that will get 1st place at Mopar Nats or Carlisle then why do it at all. LEON.

Quote from: hemi-hampton on October 12, 2018, 08:13:23 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on September 09, 2018, 10:26:00 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on September 09, 2018, 10:17:12 PM

Quote from: DAY CLONA on September 09, 2018, 10:06:31 PM


For this poor dash it WAS the "last/longest yard", in my game book the vehicle is reduced to a bare shell before any body work, but I understand the shops mentality, it's a typical body shop, where vehicles are blown in and blown out with little regard to restoration work procedures, and the bottom line is the prime importance

 As always there has to be the one person that always has something negative to say about anything.  It's a dash it was always protected and always blown off and now it's out and will receive the treatment that so many of you have claimed it should have had.  If we all had deep pockets we would all have our dream car and if we all knew how to build a car then wouldn't have to pay others to build a special car for us such as bodyman that have been in the trade for many years and work on many molars and other makes over the years.

It is a treat for me to be building a Daytona even if it is a clone but we don't all have deep pockets that can afford to own an original Daytona and furthermore there were very few built.

 I will also add that it was never intended to go through such a thorough build until knowing that this particular car needed so much attention and that being panel replacement due to rust as well as fabricating panels that just aren't available or I'd they are the wait for them is considerably long.  So in the end it was a joint decision between the owner and myself as of recent to pull the window and the dash and now that it's out( the dash that is) poor wiring can be repaired as to not have any electrical fires this destroying this vehicle.

I know how you feel, been in your shoes. Some people think that if your not going to do a $200,000 100 point show car that will get 1st place at Mopar Nats or Carlisle then why do it at all. LEON.

I have always driven my cars, never put them on a trailer.  This car will be driven in the summer on my days off.  I will take it to home depot, Canadian tire, to the cold beer store, and the grocery store, I will park it away from other cars so I won't get a parking lot ding, if it gets one thou, I won't lose my mind.  I have never put any of my cars into a car show, For me my cars are fun but at the end of the day it's a toy.

Great project , looks really nice , build what you want , wait 'till they see my XX29 Daytona that'll pi55'em off  :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:

I say Drive it & have fun with it. A Trailer queen you can't drive for fear of a rock chip on painted undercarriage is no fun. LEON.

Some more pics.  Trunk has been painted, dash has been painted, also body been wet sanded.  

The stripe arrived today, I went with the original color which is "Tomato Red". Got it from Graphic express in Florida.

https://www.graphic-express.com/mopar/dodge/dodge-daytona/1969-dodge-charger-daytona-stripe-kit-daytona-name.html  

Getting ready to be painted this weekend.

First coat, needs 3 coats of clear and wet sanding still.

Very Nice Perfect

Thought I put a little restoration tip while doing my car.  Well the rear "Vega" hatch is in but the trim was very rusty and pitted with some dents, looked around you can't get rear chrome trim for a Vega, so I looked on line ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wTxR8LB9iek ) and decided to give it a try, there was a place in Calgary wanted $3 an inch to polish it, so saved may $250 with shipping.  Kit was $35, was reluctant at first but wow it's so easy and looks like new, even fixed the dents myself. Going to polish all the trim I have not got replaced.

Sorry for delay but heres some pics, merry Christmas every one. Sean is awesome anyone want a daytona i Canada call sean

more pics

Getting there!  :2thumbs:

Getting there... one note: you might want to add the hinge stops to your trunk hinges before you assemble everything, helps prevent possible trunk to wing contact (depending on the placement of your wing),and  finger pinching between the wing/trunk when opening/closing...

Cheers for info

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on December 10, 2018, 10:08:09 PM
Cheers for info

I have pics from a real Daytona and there are no stops on the trunk hinges.  I tried to attach a picture but for some reason I cannot.

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on December 10, 2018, 10:32:56 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on December 10, 2018, 10:08:09 PM
Cheers for info

I have pics from a real Daytona and there are no stops on the trunk hinges.  I tried to attach a picture but for some reason I cannot.

Every Charger 500 or Daytona I've looked at/worked on over the decades has them, they're way out of sight, unless you have the hinge off, or crawl into the trunk, here's a real Daytona for reference

Mike

Quote from: DAY CLONA on December 11, 2018, 01:47:40 AM
Every Charger 500 or Daytona I've looked at/worked on over the decades has them

:iagree:

Quote from: hemigeno on December 11, 2018, 09:56:13 AM

Quote from: DAY CLONA on December 11, 2018, 01:47:40 AM
Every Charger 500 or Daytona I've looked at/worked on over the decades has them

:iagree:

I have looked at the pics I have and of others and I can admit when I am wrong and yes there is a stop on the trunk hinges.  At first glance it looked like a part of the inner structure and bracing for the hinges.  Looks like I will be adding these on even though I know my clearance from trunk lid to wing is as close to perfect as possible.  Thanks for the info.

It looks like it might be to keep the hinge from contacting the trunk rain gutter.

Sean started to work on the nosecone fabrication.

Nice work and good idea

What a good read. Nice work!!!

Well Sean got the doors working with the 4 inch actuators. works great, kinda wished the actuator was a little quicker but still works great.  This took a lot of time there was not much on-line on this stuff.  Sean was happier than me.  Only advice would be the z brackets that Sean fabricator from fiberglass to metal need to be on these nose cones, in my opinion. without them being metal I am sure the fiberglass would fail sooner than later.

HYDROWORKS

12V DC 4 in. Stroke 270 lb Linear Actuator
SKU: 8507816

Feature(s)
Water resistant and sealed against dust for protection in harsh environments. End stop limit switches prevent overextension or retraction. Smooth and quiet operation.  
Application(s)
Perfect for raising and lowering lawn and garden tractor and ATV attachments, along with hoods, trunks, tonneau covers, tailgates, truck covers and more  
Weight & Package Dimensions
Weight (lbs) 1.9
Package (L x W x H) 9.3 x 3.6 x 2.2 in.
Attributes & Specifications
Stroke Length   4  in.
Gear Ratio   40:1  
Load Capacity   270  lb
Static Load Capacity   350  lb
Speed at No Load   .20  in./sec
Speed at Max. Load   .08  in./sec
Current Draw at Max. Load   4.6  A
Duty Cycle   25%  
Operating Temperature Range   -26 to 65°C (-14.8 to 149°F)  
Pinhole Dia.   1/4  in.
Retracted Length (pin to pin)   8.11  in.
End Stop Limit Switches   Yes  
Recommended Fuse Size   5  A
IP Rating   This actuator has an IP65 rating. This makes it totally protected against any dust ingression so it can be used in any type of dusty conditions. It is also protected from low pressure water spray so it can be used in the rain and wet environments.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVkKZTCvyJc&feature=youtu.be

very nice thank you for your photos.

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on December 18, 2018, 01:17:24 PM
very nice thank you for your photos.

Hope it helps with yours, or give you some ideas.  :2thumbs:

thank yes good idea. i will test with my 70 headlight motor.

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on December 19, 2018, 04:11:25 AM
thank yes good idea. i will test with my 70 headlight motor.

I was thinking about a 1970 headlight motor as well.  But I read somewhere (forget were) that the 70 motor which was designed only to flip up the 2 relatively light weight plastic headlight doors using a thinner rod to connect both doors would not work.  It made sense to me that the Daytona headlights containing the buckets and headlights and hardware weight considerably more and simple would burn out and not strong enough for the job, further and maybe and more importantly the rod was too small and narrow for the weight and would twist.  Maybe it could be reinforced.   I could be wrong thou, hate to see you waste your time.  

I have heard that the 70 headlight motor operates electrically, rather than using vacuum, and that it snaps open and closed too aggressively to be effective for Daytona or Superbird headlight buckets.  Perhaps someone better in the know could wade in here...

Quote from: Lighthorseman on December 20, 2018, 07:34:17 AM
I have heard that the 70 headlight motor operates electrically, rather than using vacuum, and that it snaps open and closed too aggressively to be effective for Daytona or Superbird headlight buckets.  Perhaps someone better in the know could wade in here...

ok thank you

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on December 20, 2018, 09:02:53 AM

Quote from: Lighthorseman on December 20, 2018, 07:34:17 AM
I have heard that the 70 headlight motor operates electrically, rather than using vacuum, and that it snaps open and closed too aggressively to be effective for Daytona or Superbird headlight buckets.  Perhaps someone better in the know could wade in here...

ok thank you

  I have spent some more time trying to get more motion out of the actuators and with a little modification as in placement and length of the arm from the actuators full open and full closed has been achieved l.  As for the speed yes they are a little on the slow side but after watching numerous videos of other Daytons and Superbirds headlight doors opening and closing these are very very close to the speed of the original vacuum pods un which Dodge and Plymouth used.  I will have pics soon once I have both operational and in sync.

Quote from: Lighthorseman on December 20, 2018, 07:34:17 AM
I have heard that the 70 headlight motor operates electrically, rather than using vacuum, and that it snaps open and closed too aggressively to be effective for Daytona or Superbird headlight buckets.  Perhaps someone better in the know could wade in here...

Your absolutely right the 70 electrical motor did snap every time I opened and closed the lights, could hear a slight bang every time it opened and closed was much faster than any 69 headlight door.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JIxeXxuX80

Thank you for this vidéo you are right the 70 motor is very full speed

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on December 20, 2018, 09:27:33 AM

As for the speed yes they are a little on the slow side but after watching numerous videos of other Daytons and Superbirds headlight doors opening and closing these are very very close to the speed of the original vacuum pods un which Dodge and Plymouth used.  I will have pics soon once I have both operational and in sync.

I don't think that it's close at all......takes about 3 seconds for the headlights to pop up to full position and less than 2 seconds for them to close on mine.....I'm using stock vacuum system on mine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cejlMddOoWs

Bryan

Quote from: A383Wing on December 20, 2018, 04:07:09 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on December 20, 2018, 09:27:33 AM

As for the speed yes they are a little on the slow side but after watching numerous videos of other Daytons and Superbirds headlight doors opening and closing these are very very close to the speed of the original vacuum pods un which Dodge and Plymouth used.  I will have pics soon once I have both operational and in sync.

I don't think that it's close at all......takes about 3 seconds for the headlights to pop up to full position and less than 2 seconds for them to close on mine.....I'm using stock vacuum system on mine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cejlMddOoWs

Bryan

Well for what's available for this application it's pretty damn close.  As well it's a safe operation being that nothing can get damaged once they are fine tuned.

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on December 20, 2018, 05:19:25 PM

Quote from: A383Wing on December 20, 2018, 04:07:09 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on December 20, 2018, 09:27:33 AM

As for the speed yes they are a little on the slow side but after watching numerous videos of other Daytons and Superbirds headlight doors opening and closing these are very very close to the speed of the original vacuum pods un which Dodge and Plymouth used.  I will have pics soon once I have both operational and in sync.

I don't think that it's close at all......takes about 3 seconds for the headlights to pop up to full position and less than 2 seconds for them to close on mine.....I'm using stock vacuum system on mine

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cejlMddOoWs

Bryan

Well for what's available for this application it's pretty damn close.  As well it's a safe operation being that nothing can get damaged once they are fine tuned.

At the end of the day when all is said and done it's up to the person that owns the car and as long as they are happy with how they work and that they work properly that's all that really matters.

I have to say that I really like the actuator idea.  I'm guessing that will be the way I go once I finally get to this stage with my "Bird".

After speak with my daddy, we have think the idea with électric actuator is the best solution.

http://chargerspecialties.net/headlight-door-actuators.html

Quote from: b5blue on December 30, 2018, 12:10:10 PM
http://chargerspecialties.net/headlight-door-actuators.html

Thank you good idea too

Both are working now.

https://www.facebook.com/anythingmuscle/videos/2444061442332091/

Thank you

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on December 30, 2018, 07:15:03 PM
Both are working now.

https://www.facebook.com/anythingmuscle/videos/2444061442332091/

So, are you going to have to hold a button down the whole time the headlight doors are moving into position,  or will there be limit switches, or a timer built into the system :scratchchin:  :shruggy:

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on December 31, 2018, 11:56:53 AM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on December 30, 2018, 07:15:03 PM
Both are working now.

https://www.facebook.com/anythingmuscle/videos/2444061442332091/

So, are you going to have to hold a button down the whole time the headlight doors are moving into position,  or will there be limit switches, or a timer built into the system :scratchchin:  :shruggy:

Good question i dont think this ?

https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12v-dc-polarity-reversing-toggle-switch/A-p8467185e

Its a reverse polarity switch whichis being used.  I am not an electronics guy, but it works.

Sean has worked for 3 weeks getting the Nose Cone parts ready, now all they need is paint.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on December 31, 2018, 10:22:57 PM
Sean has worked for 3 weeks getting the Nose Cone parts ready, now all they need is paint.

No sir they still need to be blocked and then a second application of primer then blocked and wet sanded then paint.

LOL sorry Sean I will stick my my day job  :icon_smile_big:

Just a thought, you might want to take the time to take a dremel tool/drum to those headlight door adjuster/cup openings and dress them out before paint?

Easier now then later, as they will show...

Bet you have spent a lot more on this project then the last two or three times you thought you had it all figured out  :eek2:

It's been a long trip thats for sure, but I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, all the hard work is finished.

Fenders, doors, hood, and parts are now all block ready for last coat of primer.

Paint is almost done. more pics

Do you have the braces for the fenders that go from center of wheel opening up to where it bolts on to the inner fender of the car ?
You can see the stub of where it is broken off

Think I would take the clips off that the inner fender bolts go through that are still on the fenders before you paint everything black
If they move at all when putting together you will see the grey primer against the black paint

Yes just checked with Sean we have the brackets, but thanks I would have no idea to check.

You should consider removing the reinforcement ribs on the front underside of the hood.

Daytona hoods didn't have them, and they can cause a clearance issue when you close the hood.

:Twocents:

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on January 15, 2019, 04:33:56 PM
You should consider removing the reinforcement ribs on the front underside of the hood.

Daytona hoods didn't have them, and they can cause a clearance issue when you close the hood.

:Twocents:

Cheers will check

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 15, 2019, 06:51:23 PM

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on January 15, 2019, 04:33:56 PM
You should consider removing the reinforcement ribs on the front underside of the hood.

Daytona hoods didn't have them, and they can cause a clearance issue when you close the hood.

:Twocents:

Its a thing that's called pre fitting to make sure that all panels clear.  Good thing I have built a few cars in my day!!!


Cheers will check

probably should have removed those ribs before all that shiny paint was applied.....nothing like doing a job twice

Quote from: A383Wing on January 15, 2019, 07:52:21 PM
probably should have removed those ribs before all that shiny paint was applied.....nothing like doing a job twice

Do you guys not know what PRE ASSEMBLING  and PRE FITTING is!  Only a complete idiot would go as far as I have gone without pre hitting ALL panels to make sure that every panel fits and lines up the way they should.  As I said before not my first restoration!!!! 

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on January 15, 2019, 08:14:54 PM

Quote from: A383Wing on January 15, 2019, 07:52:21 PM
probably should have removed those ribs before all that shiny paint was applied.....nothing like doing a job twice

Do you guys not know what PRE ASSEMBLING  and PRE FITTING is!  Only a complete idiot would go as far as I have gone without pre hitting ALL panels to make sure that every panel fits and lines up the way they should.  As I said before not my first restoration!!!! 

do YOU know that the comments are to help make the car as accurate as possible? stop taking every comment as a dig against you.
the people here are the experts on these cars, and are offering free advice

Quote from: held1823 on January 15, 2019, 08:37:54 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on January 15, 2019, 08:14:54 PM

Quote from: A383Wing on January 15, 2019, 07:52:21 PM

do YOU know that the comments are to help make the car as accurate as possible? stop taking every comment as a dig against you.
the people here are the experts on these cars, and are offering free advice

Exactly.

Quote from: Daytona R/T SE on January 15, 2019, 08:42:52 PM

Quote from: held1823 on January 15, 2019, 08:37:54 PM

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on January 15, 2019, 08:14:54 PM

Quote from: A383Wing on January 15, 2019, 07:52:21 PM

That maybe so but one can't help but think it is criticism as to when the comments are made being this far along in the project.  With myself knowing that panels fit as they should with all aftermarket components in place.  So if there are support ribs to be cut out then also why does no one post pictures of this rather than just making comments if they are experts on these cars.

do YOU know that the comments are to help make the car as accurate as possible? stop taking every comment as a dig against you.
the people here are the experts on these cars, and are offering free advice

Exactly.

Quote from: Makingdreamsreality on January 15, 2019, 08:56:22 PM

That maybe so but one can't help but think it is criticism as to when the comments are made being this far along in the project.  With myself knowing that panels fit as they should with all aftermarket components in place.  So if there are support ribs to be cut out then also why does no one post pictures of this rather than just making comments if they are experts on these cars.

i can't speak for others, but i think your work is very nice. i'm possibly the most anti-clone member here, but that doesn't take anything away from the craftsmanship involved in building one, and this will be a beautiful car when finished. the one thing i would have done differently, be it as the owner or the restorer, would have been to looked at original cars beforehand. 99% (or more) of the population would never have a clue about the hood differences, so don't sweat it. i get your take on the comments, but i still think you are missing the intent of most of them

Good luck Kev on the rest of your build
Think I will keep any more thoughts to myself

Good luck and Thank for mine ;-)

I don't mind comments as a matter of fact a lot of them have helped me and Sean with this project.  even some of them have actually change my mind along the way.  Thanks everyone  :2thumbs:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 16, 2019, 06:57:47 AM
I don't mind comments as a matter of fact a lot of them have help me and Sean with this project.  even some of them have actually change my mind along the way.  Thanks everyone  :2thumbs:

who is this guy? IT S A BIG CLOWN?

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on January 16, 2019, 08:09:19 AM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 16, 2019, 06:57:47 AM
I don't mind comments as a matter of fact a lot of them have help me and Sean with this project.  even some of them have actually change my mind along the way.  Thanks everyone  :2thumbs:

who is this guy? IT S A BIG CLOWN?

Its me, the owner I think that may have not come out right in the French to English translation.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 16, 2019, 06:57:47 AM
I don't mind comments as a matter of fact a lot of them have helped me and Sean with this project.  even some of them have actually change my mind along the way.  Thanks everyone  :2thumbs:

Je nais aucun probleme avec les commentaires.  Actuellement, plusieurs des ceux ont aides Sean et moi avec ce projet.  Quelques-un ont memes change mes idees pendant ce projet.  Merci a tou le monde!  :2thumbs:

Je ne sais pas comment mettre un accent aigu sur mon clavier.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 16, 2019, 09:05:56 AM

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on January 16, 2019, 08:09:19 AM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 16, 2019, 06:57:47 AM
I don't mind comments as a matter of fact a lot of them have help me and Sean with this project.  even some of them have actually change my mind along the way.  Thanks everyone  :2thumbs:

who is this guy? IT S A BIG CLOWN?

Its me, the owner I think that may have not come out right in the French to English translation.

Who is makeadream ?  This guy ;-)

That's Sean

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on January 16, 2019, 03:10:36 PM
That's Sean

Ok

More painting pics

Nice

More pics, extremely happy with the results  :icon_smile_big:

The plastic cover has been taken off, wing is painted, think now it's time to put it back together.  I have either polished the chrome to look like new, or got new trim pieces.  Getting really excited the end of the build is coming close to being finished.  

Nice

Dropped off the chrome and carpet, took some pics, coming along.  Sean thinking should be done by the end off the month.  

Went by shop put all windows and windshield in, still needs lots of work but getting really close to the end.

So.......how much $ all that cost ya-including price of the car?

The red stripe/wing is a good choice.

Maybe $65000 USA

Or in other words works out to $86 000 Canadian

Quote from: 70 sublime on February 10, 2019, 08:49:09 PM
Or in other words works out to $86 000 Canadian

Its better when I say USA dollars wife is not as mad LOL

painted the drums Red and put wheels back on, started working on carpet and interior.  Can't for the life of me find the chrome inserts that separate the door inserts nothing offered by classic industries or year one.  as per last pic.

More progress, all the carpet is in, seats are in, some more chrome is on.  Filled the engine up with fluids, just waiting for the drive shaft to come back (wrong u-joint in the yoke).  The shifter is having some issues with the tremec, hitting the dash, easy fix with some fabrication (one in pic is not the one that angles out towards the driver which I have but is having the issues).  Needs some polishing still and minor door and trunk adjustment, get the new steering wheel in, but overall I am very very happy. Next week we are getting the hood and nose cone on and replacing the stripe it's a little off to far back. Should be out of Sean's shop by the end of the month.

I know your not going to like it, but you should consider having the shop re-shoot that wing for a better color match, and get that decal replaced/installed properly, otherwise it's going to bug the hell out of you every time you look at it ... it's the focal point of the car

 :yesnod:

Quote from: DAY CLONA on February 15, 2019, 11:43:17 PM
I know your not going to like it, but you should consider having the shop re-shoot that wing for a better color match, and get that decal replaced/installed properly, otherwise it's going to bug the hell out of you every time you look at it ... it's the focal point of the car

Yes it's being done, once the new stripe arrives in the next few days. Just a hick up Sean will take care of it.

yes.....I did not like to say because its generally a great built.....but it was the first thing that stood out to me. Especially where the wing overhangs the stripe. I could not live with that......but that's just me!

EDIT....beaten to it by a faster typer!! Glad you are getting it sorted....Wing going to be sprayed too??

Yes the wing is being repainted to match the stripe. Sean is working on the car full time all long weekend here in Canada. Ordered new stripe 4 days ago, left Florida Wednesday. 

Nice job, just your strip change it

Windows in and hood is on and found a set of chrome accents for the door, was only $100.  One of the Edmonton Mopar Association guys had an original set, just need to polish.  Only $100 think that was a great deal since they don't sell reproduction ones.

After you've sorted the car out and recouped some funds, you might want to change out those A pillar stainless deflectors for some better fitting/detailed repros on the market, you'll need to remove the front A pillar/windshield stock stainless and small corner piece that's currently wedged under your A pillar molding for a proper fit on the newer pieces  :Twocents:

So that #3 piece should be off for a Daytona ? Ya looking at it, it sticks up.  Thanks

P.S. that deflector is just sitting there we were scratching are heads why it did not sit right.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on February 19, 2019, 01:24:23 AM
So that #3 piece should be off for a Daytona ? Ya looking at it, it sticks up.  Thanks

P.S. that deflector is just sitting there we were scratching are heads why it did not sit right.

All 3 pcs need to come off if your fitting a proper set of original or repro A pillar stainless "wind wings"

Cheers

Well the car will be home on Wednesday (Sean in moving out of the shop on Thursday getting a flat deck).  Very happy with the paint quality it's like a mirror zero orange peel where it been polished so far.  Having issues getting fuel up to the carb wont start.  But sure its an easy fix, just fix the stripe, nose cone on, and some more polishing of the car and she will be done.  I noticed the trunk seals are really thick makes the trunk stick up a bit, Sean say after a while they will settle and loosen up.

I love this build, I'm saving my money in case you ever tire of it :)

3X

Thanks

Now it's just a simple case of a three-month wait for the snow to melt!  :icon_smile_blackeye:

So after 18 months since I purchased the car, it's home, I thank everyone on this site for advise and directions.  Sean closes his shop tomorrow, but without him this car would have not been done.  I am not a millionaire but without him I would have run out of money along time ago.  In the spring I will get exhaust, headliner, and a few minor imperfections corrected.  Thanks again everyone Cheers  :2thumbs:

P.S. heres a youtube of the car being loaded to come if interested.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADmHrlD48Lk

 :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5:

that's gorgeous! :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5:

Cheers  :2thumbs:

sorry I cant remember...is this a stock suspension or some upgrades?

:2thumbs:

Very cool...I would be very proud to have that in my garage....and that would get serious attention in the UK...I've only ever seen one here...don't know if it was real or not ! Mind you it might be a bit tight...what with the partly assembled 69, two Alfas, the wife's Merc, Mk2 Golf Gti project I've just bought and my KTM!

Love the video great job too you are a  inspiration! :cheers:

Quote from: triple_green on March 01, 2019, 09:45:59 AM
sorry I cant remember...is this a stock suspension or some upgrades?

:2thumbs:

Its stock but have air shocks in the back

Well the tremec does not line up in the same position as an original 4 speed, but after 5 hours fabricating a new shifter bracket it looks pretty close. Had to use the old automatic console cut a hole and buy a new console wood sticker.  I got a 4 speed sticker which was a mistake go with an automatic if I had to do it another time.

Little nerve racking drilling a hole in new paint but it worked out.  Drilled a hole years ago into a 69 Mach 1 hood for a set of hood pins I slipped and well it was not a happy ending.

 :drool5:

Enjoy everyone

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mEcy3k4_Lw&feature=youtu.be

very nice
:popcrn:

that sounds like a pretty lumpy cam, I love the sound of open headers,,,,,

So it looks like you are selling it after going through all the trouble and questions to get it this far ???????


https://www.kijijiautos.ca/vip/5435281/

1969 Dodge Charger must sell ASAP
$76,000


About this car
Selling my 1969 Daytona complete frame off restoration, 99% complete minor stuff needs doing, exhaust and front end alignment and headliner are left. new 500 hp 440 and manual transmission. every panel is brand new including floors. Car out of Florida has a non Daytona serial number.

Sherwood Park

That listing shows that the car is no longer available....sold or change of heart?

Quote from: 70 sublime on April 15, 2019, 10:47:08 PM
So it looks like you are selling it after going through all the trouble and questions to get it this far ???????




1969 Dodge Charger must sell ASAP
$76,000

"must sell ASAP" maybe the wifegod finally saw all the receipts/coin spent?.....

"must sell ASAP" maybe the wifegod finally saw all the receipts/coin spent?.....

With all the chit-chatting he did with local Daytona owners, I wouldn't be surprised if he got a line on a real one...

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 16, 2019, 10:12:29 PM

Quote from: 70 sublime on April 15, 2019, 10:47:08 PM
So it looks like you are selling it after going through all the trouble and questions to get it this far ???????


1969 Dodge Charger must sell ASAP
$76,000

"must sell ASAP" maybe the wifegod finally saw all the receipts/coin spent?.....

That was my first thought also

Bryan

Quote from: A383Wing on April 17, 2019, 01:28:07 AM

Quote from: DAY CLONA on April 16, 2019, 10:12:29 PM

Quote from: 70 sublime on April 15, 2019, 10:47:08 PM
So it looks like you are selling it after going through all the trouble and questions to get it this far ???????


1969 Dodge Charger must sell ASAP
$76,000

Yep you hit it on the head.  She changed her tune when I posted it on-line

Yep wife being a wife. So I said ok I will sell it then.  She changed her mind later on that night.

"must sell ASAP" maybe the wifegod finally saw all the receipts/coin spent?.....

That was my first thought also

Bryan

Well it's off the the exhaust shop.

Guess the muffler shop thinks my car can sell magnaflow mufflers  :shruggy:

I wouldn't be impressed, without my permission!

Quote
Yep you hit it on the head.  She changed her tune when I posted it on-line

Yep wife being a wife. So I said ok I will sell it then.  She changed her mind later on that night.

Glad everything worked out.  After all that work, it would have been tragic to sell...not to mention filling in a FVIR.   :eek2:

" Glad everything worked out.  After all that work, it would have been tragic to sell...not to mention filling in a FVIR.   eek"

FVIR yo ya the FVIR "has he ever bitten you" "no but he purchased at old stupid dodge".

No one on this site other than you and me know what a FVIR means LOL.

Better than a DVSRF ?! :scratchchin:

FVIR (Family Violence Intervention Report) filed by police on domestic disputes.

Heres a video of the car I made on the way to the Muffler Shop.


https://youtu.be/rlTrvEQEJNk

I know what it is... why I said it was better than a DVSRF!  :yesnod:

Ha.. and the video would be a big distracted driving charge in these parts..  :icon_smile_big:

So after almost 2 years I finally got to drive the car.  The TREMEC is awesome by the way, lots of work still to be done but all minor stuff.  AND YES I KNOW THE GAS CAP IS OPEN  :smilielol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bpMYp7I-raw

Very nice.....but that stripe positioning would bug the hell out of me!! Guess that just the detail freak in me and why I could never do a factory style resto! Looks great though....one of my favorite colour combos.

The car is Awesome , credit to you and must be fantastic to see going down the

Quote from: alfaitalia on April 26, 2019, 02:15:21 AM
Very nice.....but that stripe positioning would bug the hell out of me!! Guess that just the detail freak in me and why I could never do a factory style resto! Looks great though....one of my favorite colour combos.

I think the strip is in the right location, the wing needs to be painted, having a local body shop do it next few weeks, unless I am missing something ?

Toss hair dryer in tub , problem solved ........ Then collect life insurance and bang hookers  :icon_smile_big:

 :icon_smile_big:

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 26, 2019, 12:41:36 PM

Quote from: alfaitalia on April 26, 2019, 02:15:21 AM
Very nice.....but that stripe positioning would bug the hell out of me!! Guess that just the detail freak in me and why I could never do a factory style resto! Looks great though....one of my favorite colour combos.

I think the strip is in the right location, the wing needs to be painted, having a local body shop do it next few weeks, unless I am missing something ?

Im sure you are correct...my wing car knowledge is limited..but on most I've seen (admittedly on line..only ever seen one in real life!) the wing is in the centre of the stripe ..yours looks to be rearward of central......

Close enough for the girls I go out with,

Quote from: alfaitalia on April 26, 2019, 05:05:53 PM


Im sure you are correct...my wing car knowledge is limited..but on most I've seen (admittedly on line..only ever seen one in real life!) the wing is in the centre of the stripe ..yours looks to be rearward of central......

The OP's recent "re-"placement of the stripe and wing is well within "specs" for a wingcar, these cars exhibited some rather random slipshod assembly and finish when new, no two cars are alike in this matter.... we've all been inundated with OCD restorations in the last few decades to remember what's truly acceptable on these cars....



just like this trunk lid below with the random spot welds on the closeout panel... most would deem this unacceptable on a "restored" car, but this is how C500/Daytonas rolled out of Creative Ind.

Mike  

So I get the car home from park muffler and the passenger side exhaust tip sticks out an extra 1 inch or so.  They will fix of course.  They checked the front end passenger side lower ball joint was not so good shape, so they replaced.  and the sway bar is bent.  So I ordered this from P-S-T new sway bar, hope it tightens everything up.  It was not too bad $209 USA.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 30, 2019, 01:48:25 PM
So I get the car home from park muffler and the passenger side exhaust tip sticks out an extra 1 inch or so.  They will fix of course.  

The shop can take the time to post the car on social media, but not the time to make sure the job was done right the first time.  

it is done right.  the too-long right side pipe will create wake turbulence to help push the car left, which is what these things were built for

Quote from: Aero426 on May 01, 2019, 09:15:26 AM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on April 30, 2019, 01:48:25 PM
So I get the car home from park muffler and the passenger side exhaust tip sticks out an extra 1 inch or so.  They will fix of course.  

The shop can take the time to post the car on social media, but not the time to make sure the job was done right the first time.  

Yep Sherwood Park muffler has been around for 35 years plus, I used to go to the shop in high school, I had a 70 R/T Charger with a 6 pack and an old buddy of mine Norm COWARD (deceased) had a Dodge "swinger" use to go there and get are muffler removed and put in straight pipe, we come back a week later after our parents would freak out, and put the mufflers back. He had 1 bay then, now about 15 or so.   He charged us maybe $20 back in the day.  He's still there actually came over and told me how difficult the exhaust was on this car.  I showed him the muffler tips and he said, sorry come back and we will make it right.  Only place I know in Edmonton that will take a catalytic converter off and weld in straight pipe in, everyone else wants you to replace the converter.

That might be because the other places care that is illegal...who knows!? Lol.

There's many places that do that kind of stuff up here. Half the diesel trucks and VW cars have that DPF and cat stuff removed. Trust me.    :coolgleamA:

Off topic but, had a 2006 GMC sierra 1/2 ton 5.3 litre, one day I think I spun a bearing, it was actually the cat smashed up inside. kicked it and hear the rattle. anyways got it cut off, replaced with a straight pipe, and not word of a lie I swear my gas mileage increased by 40% and better performance as well.

So my new engine, I put a quick fuel 850 on it, was not cheap.  Anyways it runs super rich, so I went on line and theres a quick fuel video, kinda good, on how to adjust the float bowls, anyways I would not start today, after 8 hours, it final came to life, my eyes are still stinging and black smoke when I rev ?  Maybe it's too big for my application.

So no one is going to believe this, but my engine blow up.  Yes after 30 miles on the new engine the oil pump failed, I was driving down my range road with my son, driving normally, come to an intersection, my son says whats all that blue smoke from, I turn right, look at my temp gauge 160 degrees (that's ok) the notice zero oil pressure. WTF !!!!! I turn off the ignition, engine still running with loud ticking noises.    I pull off the back of the oil pressure gauge and no oil when turning over.  Was $11000 Cdn for the new engine.  They used a melling think it's a M-63.  I have had lots of cars over the years but never had an oil pump go on me.  Called Pro Stock the company that built the motor it's covered and they will fix / replace.

ouch :P

Yep, Pro Stock will fix / replace thank god, not even an argument from them, but WTF could cause a oil pump to fail.  :shruggy:

Did it fail or did the oil pump drive shaft shear off?

Yikes not to sure, I drove maybe 30 secs without oil pressure, maybe the engine is toast, had penziol 10-30 zinc in it. who knows, I want the shop to go through the entire engine.  The engine will start / run but no oil pressure, I assume a broken distributor shaft the engine will not run ????

It will run long as long as the distributor gear is still turning.

Oh shit have you got Many domage?

Man,that sucks after all that money,and work you did putting it together!

Did you pull the dipstick to see if there was still oil in the motor ?

Oil was full and brand new oil and filter

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on May 12, 2019, 03:34:44 AM
Oh shit have you got Many domage?

Not to sure it still runs, but won't dear start until its looked at.

Sorry to hear that, but I am glad to hear the engine builder is going to stand behind it.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on May 12, 2019, 07:27:04 PM

Quote from: XS29L9B2 on May 12, 2019, 03:34:44 AM
Oh shit have you got Many domage?

Not to sure it still runs, but won't dear start until its looked at.

Ok i am sorry for you :-(

Ok figured out what the no oil pressure problem was and as you can see by the pic the push rod went through the rocker arm and lifter came out.  It's been fixed at no cost runs much better now, no other damage.  Car now is at the suspension shop for an alignment, some of the front end is 50 years old and needs replacing.

you sure that the oil holes in the bottom of the rocker shaft are pointing the correct direction?

I think you got lucky that it was just a rocker arm issue!  Glad to hear that you didn't have to pull the car all apart again.

So the car is home now, the suspension shop had a field day, the tie rods are 50 years old the sleeves that adjusts the aliment they twisted off like pieces of licorice, because of 50 years of rust.  Anyways $1600 cdn later the front end is, well brand new.   But to be honest it drives like new now.  The best part of the car when driving is hands down the TREMEC.  It was worth every penny, it is so much fun driving the car with the manual.  No BS at 60 miles an hour in 5th gear its at 1500 rpm.

What else do you have planned to do?

Headliner needs to be put in (already have a legendary headliner) , get correct seat belts, paint the wing same color as the body (already priced out at $400 cdn) thinking of getting some BFG T/A's thinking of going with 295 50 15 in the back 245 60 15 in the front.  Then she pretty much done. Maybe for Christmas will get a wood grain dash.  But the car today is driveable, runs great, just today finally got the hood turn signals to work.  The connection was rusty where the bulb goes took me a couple of hours to narrow it down.

 :drool5: :drool5: :popcrn: :popcrn: :2thumbs: :2thumbs:

Well it happened again busted a rocker arm.  Anyone who is building an engine don't use 50 year old parts they a worn down.   Did not lose oil pressure this time.  Got a new set of roller rockers put in next few days, planning of taking the car to the Western Mopar Madness on the 27th July supposed to be 500 mopars from across the West there hers the link will take some pics.

http://emawmm.com/

But where do all those little metal bits that break out end up ?

Quote from: 70 sublime on July 14, 2019, 09:20:58 PM
But where do all those little metal bits that break out end up ?

hopefully he has a big magnetic  oil plug  and that will only get some 

Cap is still here, will do an oil change, guess thats all I can do at this point.

bummer sorry to see this  :brickwall:

don't quote me on this I might be talking crap & or remembering something I read !  wrong years ago,
weren't stock  mopar stamped steel stock rockers limited to cam lift / spring  pressure, because of push rods poking holes in them ! & that was the reason mopar used HD ones of sixpack motors , & offered HD ones over the counter, sure the old dc parts cataloge  listed part numbers  for HD ones  :scratchchin: if ive got it wrong & or its  not exactly what ive mentioned , forget what ive just said  :cheers:

SO is this something we ALL have to look out for , I ask as my 440 has 94,000 miles on it and I never thought twice about it till I saw that ? :o

Not too sure not an engine "expert" but don't skimp out on an engine rebuild, guess all the springs, cam, everything was new a lot more pressure on the rockers I guess.  At least the engine is ok, just need new rockers and push rods.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on July 15, 2019, 05:01:42 PM
Not too sure not an engine "expert" but don't skimp out on an engine rebuild, guess all the springs, cam, everything was new a lot more pressure on the rockers I guess.  At least the engine is ok, just need new rockers and push rods.

I am not an engine person either just wondered if thats an old rocker issue.

Quote from: Highbanked Hauler on July 15, 2019, 06:37:02 PM

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on July 15, 2019, 05:01:42 PM
Not too sure not an engine "expert" but don't skimp out on an engine rebuild, guess all the springs, cam, everything was new a lot more pressure on the rockers I guess.  At least the engine is ok, just need new rockers and push rods.

I am not an engine person either just wondered if thats an old rocker issue.

I'm wondering if it's more of a "new" rocker quality issue or of too much lift/spring pressure for original stamped rockers.
If I remember correctly you need to be looking for better rockers once your cam lift goes over about .510" of valve lift. The original stamped rocker was well designed and was very robust. You just needed to be sure that the rocker shafts were installed correctly for proper oiling and the rockers even held their own little oil reservoir so no dry starts. I have only seen a scant few rocker failures of the cup end (like the OP's issue) on very high mile engines or tired engines with big cams installed. I have seen more bent BB Mopar pushrods than rocker ball end failures. for multiple failures like this on the same engine, there is something else happening such as too much valve spring pressure, too much lift or some combination of both.

Now onto a "new" parts issue when I built by stroker 440 for my Superbird the second time (the first time is documented here somewhere) I bought a set of Mopar Performance "HD stamped rockers" as they were supposed to be a heavier and more reinforced copy of the originals. They appeared to be OK out of the box, however when the engine was dyno'ed it came up low on power. after much head scratching and double checking everything we checked gross valve lift, the factory stamped rockers were 1.5:1 ratio. The actual measured ratio of my new out of the box MP rockers were anywhere from 1.28:1 to somewhere near 1.35:1! Effectively making the moderate street cam I had installed in the engine act like a cam more suited to a grain truck!  :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

My only point to this story is beware of and double check ALL of the parts you are installing for fit, function, quality and the compatibility of the whole system. In stock configuration the valvetrain in these old engines was pretty darn good and almost foolproof to install.

Just my $.02  :Twocents: whilch probably isn't worth half of the value of the copper.... :cheers:

Quote from: 70Sbird on July 16, 2019, 09:54:16 AM

Now onto a "new" parts issue when I built by stroker 440 for my Superbird the second time (the first time is documented here somewhere) I bought a set of Mopar Performance "HD stamped rockers" as they were supposed to be a heavier and more reinforced copy of the originals. They appeared to be OK out of the box, however when the engine was dyno'ed it came up low on power. after much head scratching and double checking everything we checked gross valve lift, the factory stamped rockers were 1.5:1 ratio. The actual measured ratio of my new out of the box MP rockers were anywhere from 1.28:1 to somewhere near 1.35:1! Effectively making the moderate street cam I had installed in the engine act like a cam more suited to a grain truck!  :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall:

It's pretty hard for "Ma and Pa Kettle" suppliers to beat the millions of dollars of factory engineering that went into the original parts.     Time and again, new parts are proven to be substandard to OEM.     Doesn't matter if it is mechanical, electrical components or sheet metal.       We wrongly assume because it has the MP logo,  that it meets spec.    A lot of the aftermarket just sucks.

As robust as the OEM rockers are, I have to question whether something else is going on with the valvetrain.

Yep considering the shit we did as teenagers to these things and I'm still spooling the same motor rebuilt in 1979 just as hard.... it wasn't a rockers fault. There's ZERO oil showing on said part...

Ya what ever the problem it's a huge pain in my a**, car runs fine until a push rod destroys a rocker.  Has may 100 miles on engine.  

The plot thinkens check out the bent push rod.

Wow.. Man, sorry you're having to deal with this.....

Guy who the build the engine is here now, thinks it was causing by the exhaust being trapped.

Ummm....That makes no sense at all.... :-\

Hes here now will find out if the valve hit the piston causing damage.

Quote from: kevs1969daytona on July 18, 2019, 03:25:28 PM
Guy who the build the engine is here now, thinks it was causing by the exhaust being trapped.

I for one would love to hear the logic and reasoning behind that statement........  :scratchchin:

I'm thinking possibly a valve got stuck closed, hence bent push rods and broken rockers......

ya sounds crazy I think the the cylinder was full of fuel and could not get out and the intake could not close. Anyways Proform Rockers are garbage got some crane comps. Put a topic under engines it's unbelievable what they produce.

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,135771.0.html

So engine is running again nothing damaged got crane comp rockers.   Tomorrow is Western Mopar Madness here in Edmonton. Says big chance of thunder stroms, not too sure, will cross my fingers.  But went to the meet and greet tonight saw this cool  Daytona.  It a real xx29 car.  mAybe it's a members car here.  Totally has that 80's muscle car look.  All jacked up and stuff. enjoy.

Some pics from the car show this weekend.  This was Friday the meet a greet, but Saturday the real show was raining like a hurricane stayed in garage. 

Glad to hear you got it figured out. But what are crane comp rockers?

LOL told you i'm not an engine guy, but what ever they are they work great. pretty sure they are these.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-1621-16/overview/

Comp. product  :cheers:  :2thumbs:

Well bit a little time since my last post. Today my wood grain dash showed up, (classic industries) too be really honest very expensive it was $700 usa.   Anyways this is my second set got one for my 1970 R/T Charger.   So i learned something this time the new wood grain set comes with metal tabs that you can pull up.  On my 1970 Charger I grinded them down and glued them onto the back original stuff.  But today I look on the back of the original black dash there was original little square indents that I drilled out. They fit perfect with this new stuff,   Fitted ok.  Be careful this new stuff does not replace the original its a skinny face plate that goes on top.  And its very flimsy and it's scratches.

Hey guys anyone who love MOPAR needs to check out this channel on youtube, it Canadian I know but this guy is HEMI crazy check it out.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKxu_85y8YGFQcY11cJGNtA

Looks like a pretty cool show!!! Thanks!!! :cheers:

It's a great show.  :Twocents:

Enjoy  :cheers:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sLOZmaGk3sA&t=9s

Been some time, heres my kid taking it for a rip.


https://www.facebook.com/kathy.brookes/videos/10158371798369289/

Has he got his foot on the brake the entire time or is the switch set too low? Tail lights seem awfully bright..

Got the car out of the body shop today, fixed the small problems, especially the wing color, looks awesome, only $440 about $300 USA.  Looks much better.

...uuhhh looks better, but you forgot the sidemarker  :scratchchin: :brickwall:

What exhaust did you go with?

I like the end segment, My kid has a 2016 Egoboost Mustang with a GT350 body kit...

Magnaflow

Quote from: DAY CLONA on May 19, 2020, 09:24:12 PM
...uuhhh looks better, but you forgot the sidemarker  :scratchchin: :brickwall:
[/quot

Jesus your right, will fix. Thanks

So someone on youtube has put a "history" story of the Daytona and at 3 mins I show up.  Kinda feel honored i Guess

www.youtube.com/watch?v=MLQkKzUqkOg

Just looked at the 69 part.

Lacking facts!!!    :Twocents:

Side marker fixed, only cost $7, figured out what color the stripe is, it not Hemi Orange (not enough Red) hard to say this and please don't ban me from this site, but have a look at the pic.  

Looks pretty close .
Uh Oh, you got bubbles in your 'O'  :rotz: :icon_smile_big:

Just messin with you, car looks great  ;)

Quote from: WINGIN IT on May 23, 2020, 12:59:40 PM
Looks pretty close .
Uh Oh, you got bubbles in your 'O'  :rotz: :icon_smile_big:

Just messin with you, car looks great  ;)

Ok off to the junk yard for it. LOL

Change the tires out today had 235/60/15 on front and 275/60/15 on back (huggers) changed out for 295/50/15 BFG's in back and 235/60/15 in front.  Wheels are magnum 500's 15x7 in front and 15x8 in back, fits perfect.

more pics tires don not rub in back..

Finished

Looks fantastic !  :cheers: :drool5: :yesnod: :2thumbs:

This great info about the 295 50s fitting on the 15x8s

Ya I am very happy with the look, I don't like the 15x10 rims, they just don't look right IMO.

Looks awesome.  :2thumbs:

Got my reverse lights to work, it was a pain in the a**, but looks good.

Working on my seat belts, they were turning Blue over the years, they are actually 1968 but are the same as a 69 as far as I know.   We purchased some "acid dye" and my wife cooked the belts over the stove at 180 degrees. Great results.

Dyed belts look new.  The elastic was broken but while try to repair after a trip to the local craft store.

Well it's been a little while, just took the battery out of the car. Kinda sad but it's Canada after all started snowing I hate snow.   It's been a great year the car has not let me down once (no tow trucks).  Anyways just let everyone know who wants to make a clone.  If you can wait till the end it's absolutely worth it.  Been to a few Mopar shows and the crowds flock to my car, it like driving a Lamborghini down the road in the 1980's people loss their Sh**.  I have had 69 z28's, 70 R/T Chargers, Grand Nationals, 70 R/T Challengers, multiple vettes all convertibles, but a Daytona even if a clone people loose thier sh**.

Car looks great

Now what are you going to do with all your free time till spring ?  ;D

Not too sure but, the 18 months it took to build the car took up a lot of my time, including financially (my wife is very happy it's over) and it was somewhat stressful at times, but well worth it in the end.  Now I need another project thinking of a Grand National believe it or not. 

Its a beauty! Great tip on the seat belt dye trick.

This is exactly what I would build, if I could, Love it!!

Mark

the Janak parts when correctly installed work very well, no flexing no breakage

beautiful car for sure i built 1 very much like it

Picked this authentic 1969 Alberta plate at an auction for $50 ($35 usa) in great shape in Alberta you can association these old plate with the one your driving and use it on the road. 

Did you only get one plate or two ?

I just picked up a pair of Ontario 1969 plates myself and they are in the mail as we speak  :2thumbs:

Just one since you only need one in 2020, there's another man cave auction going through think I might get number 8008 chryco shelving think would look cool in my garage. Its a couple of block from my place of work. asking $17.50
https://bidlive.kauctions.ca/KASTNER-AUCTIONS-SPECIALTY-AUCTION_as69376?ps=100

Totally Awesome Kev!

Huge 'pat on the back' to you!!! :2thumbs:

YOU NAILED IT... :drive: :notworthy:

I remember posting on your thread over three years ago, when you were :shruggy: having engine probs!


I'm still looking for some standard bore 413 pistons lol...

Kev, your Daytona looks awesome.... Really like that dye exercise you did for the seat belts...  :2thumbs:

Ok been awhile but, the project is 99% done, been driving it alot, has not let me down, went to a car show in Edmonton, did not stay long, couple of older guy lost there poo, I get it. car get more looks than any Lambo, Enzo in my opinion. Also modified a automatic console to become a 4 speed looks pretty good save $700 canadian.

 :2thumbs: :coolgleamA: :popcrn:

Ok been awhile quick update.  Wanted to change out my tail lights they were oxidized somewhat as per first pic, kinda bugged me, so nice winter project, so I took a chance and got a set from Kijiji they were sitting in a barn for 30 years, Got them from an old guy in Ontario has a charger parts company, has tons of Charger parts. Very happy, the plastic is like new, chrome needs polish, but I might swap the chrome with my old ones. Also got a N.O.S. 4 speed shifter boot the reproduction one I got last year was make from thin rubber it ripped while adjusting the handle (WASTE OF MONEY), the NOS is much thicker.

+1 for Mark from here as well, was a 4h drive each way for me to get there, but he had everything i needed to get my car done, (bumper brackets, 68 tail Lenses, crank handles, hood lights, windows shark tooth,windshield trim, many others, plus a gauge cluster Fratzog) after the deal, we ended up chatting for 2 hours, was a great day.

I was going to guess if it was Mark till I read the rest of your update  :2thumbs: :2thumbs:

I have also gotten stuff from him and he is only about an hour from my place

Hello been awhile, so just a quick update. Got the headliner put in in the summer looks awesome, but issues at the back, they wanted to remove the back window, I said no it works, it sealed and its old, so with a couple extra hours it worked.  Got the headline from legendary it is awesome !!!!!   But tragedy struck in the fall, backed the car out of the garage, realize my wallet was in the garage, so like an idot I opened the drivers door, forgot to close it (well it's on even ground right ?) not it rolled back into my wife acura's bumper (DOOR OPEN) not a happy ending.   If it's more than a few grand hagerty will step up and pay. P.S. Hagerty are awesome IMO no issues "get it fixed" very cool service.

I wonder if were the only two cloned Black wing car owners in all of Canada?