Getting close to installing the dash and was checking for seals to the dash and found this...
Pic #1 Old harness from the inside.
Pic #2 New M&H harness from the inside. My finger is near a hole molded into the fitting.
Pic #3 old harness showing no holes except wire openings.
Pic #4 New harness showing a hole at each end of each plug.
This looks like a likely spot for water to come in. Probably not much but why leave the opening at all?
Interesting. I wouldn't have thought that two mfg's out there would have reproduced an injection mould for that part, but I guess they have. Surprised at M&H for using the incorrect one. Here's the one I bought to transfer my OE dash harness wires over to.
I'd fill the holes with Black RTV or similar, using a flat plate at the show side when filling from the other side, let cure and peel off plate / tape.
Quote from: birdsandbees on December 25, 2018, 05:04:06 PM
Interesting. I wouldn't have thought that two mfg's out there would have reproduced an injection mould for that part, but I guess they have. Surprised at M&H for using the incorrect one. Here's the one I bought to transfer my OE dash harness wires over to.
I'd fill the holes with Black RTV or similar, using a flat plate at the show side when filling from the other side, let cure and peel off plate / tape.
Yeah, I'm going to do something to plug up those holes, RTV probably work. Thinking some more, it seems that a bigger problem would be engine compartment fumes leaking into the pass compartment. I bet I would smell every little exhaust leak, gas leak or whatever.
I wrote M&H a note. Being Christmas, I don't expect a fast answer.
Hey tug test every single connector and inspect everything very closely. Mine had connectors not fully crimped (The wire slid out when firmly tugged.) I had to replace connector and crimp properly. (NAPA crimp tool and connectors that attach wire and insulation with separate crimps.)
Quote from: b5blue on December 25, 2018, 05:26:09 PM
Hey tug test every single connector and inspect everything very closely. Mine had connectors not fully crimped (The wire slid out when firmly tugged.) I had to replace connector and crimp properly. (NAPA crimp tool and connectors that attach wire and insulation with separate crimps.)
ARG!!! something more to do! :icon_smile_wink:
Just a question! Couldn't be an "upgrade" to be able to release the secure tab of conections from inside prying them out throught that hole?
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 26, 2018, 10:28:38 AM
Just a question! Couldn't be an "upgrade" to be able to release the secure tab of conections from inside prying them out throught that hole?
No it was a cheap way to make an injection mould. The holes are where one half of the mould comes through the part to make the lock tab instead of a more expensive way by using a sliding core. I've been in injection moulding since 1985.
Quote from: birdsandbees on December 26, 2018, 10:47:45 AM
Quote from: Nacho-RT74 on December 26, 2018, 10:28:38 AM
Just a question! Couldn't be an "upgrade" to be able to release the secure tab of conections from inside prying them out throught that hole?
No it was a cheap way to make an injection mould. The holes are where one half of the mould comes through the part to make the lock tab instead of a more expensive way by using a sliding core. I've been in injection moulding since 1985.
Agreed.....save some tooling $$$ by not having the slides in the tool to undercut the tabs on the side.
Just noticed this myself doing some wiring under the dash. Lots of daylight coming through that connector :shruggy:
How much extra would the tooling cost to do it right.
It just amazes me that 50 years later we can not produce the same or a better quality product for our cars today.
Got a note back from M&H. Says they will investigate and get back to me. Probably after the new year.
Taped one side of the holes then filled them in with liquid electrical tape. worked fine.
Got an email from M&H. FWIW....
"Thank you for the reminder. From what we have learned, the holes are present due to the construction of the tool that molds the connector. These holes are for the core pins that aid in making the locking clips that secure the harnesses to the bulkhead. The original tool that made this connector has vanished many years ago, and is not available to examine how the tool created the connector without leaving core pin holes. This same tool has been used since we first started building these harnesses in the year 2000. If there is a concern of moisture entering through the holes, you can use a little black RTV sealant."
Year 1 doesn't provide for feedback, so no remedy there. All we can do is complain to M&H. :shruggy:
Like I said.. a cheap way to make a tool! I've owned an injection moulding company since 1985.
I'll have to look up whom I bought my bulkhead connector from, as it was made correctly... so there are two reproduction moulds out there!
Quote from: birdsandbees on January 16, 2019, 06:07:51 PM
Like I said.. a cheap way to make a tool! I've owned an injection moulding company since 1985.
I'll have to look up whom I bought my bulkhead connector from, as it was made correctly... so there are two reproduction moulds out there!
Could you please let us know who to buy a correct bulk head connector from? I bought a M&H dash harness and I would rather swap the bulkhead to a correct one without the extra holes.
Thanks!
I bought the full set from Kramer Automotive, they also sell individual parts in their Ebay store. Pictures show a correct part! and mine that I got is. Can't believe M&H is using something incorrect if this is available. :rotz:
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/MOPAR-66-67-70-Bulkhead-Disconnect-W-Wiring-Harness-Connector-Terminal-Ends/173746128732?hash=item287413875c:g:DA0AAOSw4A5YyKat
I pinged back to M&H about them selling a faulty part. I mentioned the "sliding core". Finally got a better answer.
"We appreciate your feedback. Your concern about engine vapors getting into the passenger compartment, has triggered our staff to take another look at this bulkhead and the tool that produces it. It was found that the tool will need to be replaced as it has worn after close to 20 years of use. A new tool is now in the drafting stage. It will incorporate the updated technology to fill in the open holes that the previous tool did not address. At M&H Electric, we listen and take seriously the feedback from our end users, to make a product we can all be proud of."
..and when they find out just how much that mould is going to cost, they'll buy from Kramer! :lol:
Quote from: birdsandbees on January 19, 2019, 12:35:49 PM
..and when they find out just how much that mould is going to cost, they'll buy from Kramer! :lol:
I think I'll tell them, you would think they would know what the competition is doing!