As title suggests, what's the best place to attach chains? When I installed engine in 2008 I had a cast iron intake and used a carb flange but no way do I trust studs in an aluminum intake to hold the whole engine...suggestions?
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Chain head to head diagonally I / I
Quote from: b5blue on December 01, 2019, 10:17:41 AM
Chain head to head diagonally I / I
Using 4 points, instead of 2. Like the letter X.
Does anyone know of threads pulling out of an aluminum intake using a carb flange lifting plate?
Quote from: BSB67 on December 01, 2019, 10:41:35 AM
Does anyone know of threads pulling out of an aluminum intake using a carb flange lifting plate?
This is how i pull all of mine. Never had an issue.
Joe You do that?? with an Aluminum intake??? works OK?
I prefer that intake flange, easy to work with
I have used the carburetor plate exclusively for years. I've even lifted 440s with the 727 attached this way. Do the math on the holding strength of one 5/16" bolt, then multiply it by 4. Unless the threads are all gacked out, this is not a problem.
Quote from: c00nhunterjoe on December 01, 2019, 08:42:38 PM
Quote from: BSB67 on December 01, 2019, 10:41:35 AM
Does anyone know of threads pulling out of an aluminum intake using a carb flange lifting plate?
This is how i pull all of mine. Never had an issue.
That's all I've ever used as well...even with aluminum intakes :2thumbs:
Aluminum intakes and heads i should have stated as well.
That's what I do too. I've never heard of a problem. But thought I'd ask. I suspect that there have been failures, but unlikely with good aluminum intake threads.
If the OP is worried about it, put the factory intake on with 4 hand tightened intake bolts in the 4 corners, and use the plate on the carb flange.
That hanging a chain across two intake to head bolts actually seems worse to me considering the load angles. But that's been done a million time too.
Long time ago I had a buddy using a chain hoist on a garage beam to pull a 421 Pontiac and TH 400 out of the back of a pick-up. He used one carb stud through the chin link with a washer and a nut. The hoist was not high enough to lift the unit out of the truck bed. So he got in the truck and drove the truck out from under the engine/tranny. The garage shook and the engine/tranny were bouncing up and down while swinging and twisting around like an out of control pendulum. The one carb stud held fine.
The stuff we worry about today verses the stuff we did long ago is kind of funny.
I wish I had a dime for all the things posted on these car forums that folks say "you cannot do", "should not do" , "I would never do", "you have to do..." that we did, or did not do all the time.
When we weren't looking, the country turned into a bunch of over cautious wimps. :brickwall:
I would not mind betting that the force required to push just one of those aluminium threads in the manifold to failure point in a straight pull would be higher than the weight of the engine. Tried to check on google....but the maths is beyond my understanding!!!
General rule on strength of a properly torqued bolt is depth of the threads must equal the diameter of the fastener's diameter. Anymore is a waste of bolt. I pulled 35 ton tank turrets with 3 anchor points using 4 5/8 bolts each that only threaded 5/8" into the turret. That is the factory authorized method and we would have to do proof tests at 200% rated loads for testing.
Copy all guys...well carb flange it is! that will save a lot of time!
Thanks