Well I had some time after work to start replacing my 1/4, or so I thought. Ive got more bodywork to do than what's expected. From what I can see Ill need trunk extension also as its bent and is separated from out wheel house. I was debating to leave top of the 1/4 or not but after seeing bondo over 1/2" in some places I've decided to cut it all off.
some more pics.
how is the corner cap connected? I dont see spot welds, how do I cut them out. left one isn't bad so Id like to save it. The right one looks like got too much bondo.
i second that, just buy a whole new one. while you make the order get the new extensions for the trunk as well. If you dont have a full 1/4 yet, buy it, wait for it to get there, then hold it up against the body with duct tape and make a line. then cut an inch or so below that line. Use a peice of tape to cut a straight line.then hang it from there. I think you need a whole new 1/4 and everything.
Ive got 1/4 already. Ive ordered one from Legendary, not the $2500 one. Im ordering top of the 1/4 from someone else.
then why leave so much of the 1/4? looks like you left the bottom edge, which is something that would need to be replaced. you gotta drill or grind out all the spot welds along that bottom edge, otherwise you either have to put the new 1/4 over top of it, or the new 1/4 has to be cut up from the bottom and give you another seam to weld to, which really isnt worth the hassle to have old metal on the very bottom edge just begging to be rusted out.
well this is the way I do it, and many other body shops and teachers do it at local college and body shops. Just take die grinder and cut out the bulk of the 1/4 and then you can work around that left over from BOTH sides with air chisel, prying it off as you drill out/grind off spot welds. That's the plan anyways :) will keep you guys updated
Quote from: dads_69 on May 13, 2007, 12:52:08 AM
Silver, stop before you go any further. Do it correctly now or you'll have more rust issues possibly next year or two years from now by staying with your rusted areas you have now and not replacing them. Its either fix it the correct way now or sell it to someone who can. Gees dude, I thought you had an idea of what it took to repair cars, in body shop lingo, your hacking it out.
Mark
Im replacing all the sheetmetal dude, chill, read my previous posts ;)
what is wrong that Im doing? Please explain
Quote from: dads_69 on May 13, 2007, 07:55:00 PM
Put a full quarter panel on it, yours is going to take you to much to save it. And as for that rear corner piece, buy a new won. Once again, aren't you a full fledged body tech? Your questions here are very questionable to a few of us. Your experience is not what you lead many of us to believe apparently. Good luck w/your restoration.
If you do decided to sell it cause you lose interest in it, I'd go 2 grand cash for your car minus the wheels.
Mark
1. I am putting a full quarter on it, read the previous post ^^^^
2. Thanks for the offer, for 2K Ill give you the 1/4 that I cut off :)
3. Rear corner piece is not rusted, it might be reused as the aftermarket ones are very bad repro and need extensive work to fit properly. Most likely right one will be replaced as it IS rusted.
4. Have a nice day.
:stirthepot: ill give ya 3000.00 cash
ya I wasnt too clear of that part myself. you mentioned you had the 1/4 but were getting the top part of it from a seperate supplier? I guess I'm confused why you dont get a full 1/4, that way you have 1 less weld line? Maybe we're just not understanding what exactly your saying here Silver. care to elaborate?
maybe if you donate $2000 for repro full quarter panel Ill hang it on my Charger. :)
What is wrong with what silver is doing...it looks right to me. Someone please explain.
Mark, explain the hacking please in terms I can understand. I know you know what you are doing, i'm still trying to learn.
v/r
Mike
the hacking part is how he's removing it really. at least me. I just really hope he doesnt need that old 1/4 for a pattern of anything. cause its pretty much worthless right now. Also, you want as little welding as possible. welds make heat, heat distorts panels. So the more heat, the worse the chance of warpage. see what i'm saying here? what it looked like originally was that he hacked the center of the panel out, leaving that lower edge. I've never heard of anybody doing it the he is, every bodyman i've ever heard of drills out the spot welds or grinds them off (grind the welds instead of cutting them if you arent trying to save the panel) Now he's saying he has a second panel for the top section, which means he's going to have a weld the length of the 1/4, and chargers have LOOONG 1/4 panels. plus a second long weld, plus the weld on the bottom.
Like i said though, it looked like he was saying that lower lip of the 1/4, which would mean he had a extra weld the length of the 1/4. If he had that many welds he'd probably need as much body filler as what you can see in the pics above. also it looks like the trunk extension is shot, and probably the outer wheel well housing. again I cant see much without being there in person.
I guess both myself and Mark see it as being hacked up bad, and no offense silver, but I sure hope you can get it back together right.
Silver you are doing it the right way. They are just misunderstanding that you are removing the bulk and will get edges with air chisel. Much better way then attempting the edges with the mass still connected. Good luck
I dont know bodywork so my opinion is just from observations but it looks like you are doing it the right way, just maybe not removing it the same way as the guys who are used to doing it all the time. This stuff is a challenge to figure out when you havent done it before. The only things I would do differently is buy full 1/4s and I would have waited until the new panels arrived like mentioned above so you know where to make your cuts. Anyway im sure it will work out fine if you take your time.
Oh and one more thing I wanted to mention. If they need it, you might want to think about replacing the rocker panels while you are doing the 1/4s.
No miss understanding here at all. Been tearing cars/trucks apart for over twenty years, theres a right way to do it and wrong way. Both in tear down and repair. Silver, if you worked me at my shop, you would be fired. Your going to ruin that quarter by welding two separate wons together like you have planned. Yes, I can send you two grand for a full panel, but that better include a title along with your car when I do. Listen to what Russ said also. We're realy trying to help you do this correctly, but you seam to be set on doing a quickie repair vs long term.
Mark
Quote from: Heck2G14 on May 13, 2007, 11:09:16 PM
Silver you are doing it the right way. They are just misunderstanding that you are removing the bulk and will get edges with air chisel. Much better way then attempting the edges with the mass still connected. Good luck
thanks, exactly what Im doing. Two other parties seem like had too much to drink this weekend.
no, i havent had anything to drink this weekend actually. Pain killers for the broken kneecap I had surgery on forbid it. It just like mark said, theres a right way and a wrong way. and like I said, I just sure hope you dont need that old panel for any sort of pattern, cause you just destroyed it removing it in multiple peices.
I'm still waiting to find out if your welding that 1/4 to a seperate top peice. and how you intend to do that without ruining it.
rear valance, will also be replaced. It looks like I have to drill out welds where its connected to the taillight panel as it sits behind it. I will be ordering trunk extension also. Outer wheelhouse is fine, just surface rust on it, everything will be sandblasted inside of there before its painted. Left corner cap will be replaced also for sure. I will be using weld through primer on mating surfaces. More pics will follow as I go through it.
Btw "dads 69" there's not enough money you could pay me to work for you, you seem like you're an asshole and think that anyone else but you is not qualified to work on cars. Ive got job that pays my bills/mortgage and even some $$ is left over for my toys. Thanks for the offer. :scratchchin:
sorry to say it but my boss woulda fired ya for doing it that way too.
its not how you do it, it's how it is when its done that's all that matters.
Tell that to the boss.
I dont think any of you guys know what you are talking about.
:popcrn:
Todd
:popcrn:
Quote from: moparguy01 on May 13, 2007, 10:27:59 PM
the hacking part is how he's removing it really. at least me. I just really hope he doesnt need that old 1/4 for a pattern of anything. cause its pretty much worthless right now. Also, you want as little welding as possible. welds make heat, heat distorts panels. So the more heat, the worse the chance of warpage. see what i'm saying here? what it looked like originally was that he hacked the center of the panel out, leaving that lower edge. I've never heard of anybody doing it the he is, every bodyman i've ever heard of drills out the spot welds or grinds them off (grind the welds instead of cutting them if you arent trying to save the panel) Now he's saying he has a second panel for the top section, which means he's going to have a weld the length of the 1/4, and chargers have LOOONG 1/4 panels. plus a second long weld, plus the weld on the bottom.
Like i said though, it looked like he was saying that lower lip of the 1/4, which would mean he had a extra weld the length of the 1/4. If he had that many welds he'd probably need as much body filler as what you can see in the pics above. also it looks like the trunk extension is shot, and probably the outer wheel well housing. again I cant see much without being there in person.
I guess both myself and Mark see it as being hacked up bad, and no offense silver, but I sure hope you can get it back together right.
This guy replaced his 1/4 same way, I dont see you complaining about it
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,28547.0.html
:scratchchin: im just amazed you posted pics of your charger after three years and used punctuation...
WAY TO GO CHAMP!!
BTW:
I sent ya' an e-mail for that stainless you were looking for back in Oct. still need it?.
Thats cause he didnt do it the same way scooter. Look at these pics here. 1 of his, 2 of yours. If you dont see the difference you really need to get your eyes checked.
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/765/charger14ta1.jpg)
Notice on the one above there is no lip on the bottom of the 1/4 panel. He has removed the whole 1/4 panel. This is the correct way to do it.
Now notice how this is hacked to all hell, and still has 1/2 the quarter on the car, as well as that lower lip.
(http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/8190/silverscargr2.jpg)
(http://img82.imageshack.us/img82/3269/silverscar1qo0.jpg)
So you can see I didnt get after him because whoever did that 1/4 did it right, and wasnt hacking the shit out of it.
are you getting the @$#(*U$ point or not? Im not going to keep the lower lip. I quickly cut off the bulk of the 1/4 to have access from both sides. Read this sentence again, until you fully understand it. I'm surprised you were born here and haven't learned how to read yet, imo. Btw, Dad's 69 needs some spelling lessons also :)
Brock I do need the stainless, how's the condition of it?
Wow kid. I never said you werent taking that part off, I'm SAYING YOUR A DAMN HACK! Go find a new career you damn MAACO prep guy. Jesus christ you try to help a guy and he starts saying shit like you are to us.
YOU COMPLETELY HACKED UP THAT CAR. oh forget it, go learn how to do bodywork. You obviously need to either apprentice under somebody who is worth a shit or go to a college auto body 101. cause you sure the hell dont know how to do it right.
READ THAT UNTIL YOU CAN #%()*#$(* UNDERSTAND IT. ya jackass.
Quote from: Silver R/T on May 14, 2007, 08:44:17 PM
are you getting the @$#(*U$ point or not? Im not going to keep the lower lip. I quickly cut off the bulk of the 1/4 to have access from both sides. Read this sentence again, until you fully understand it. I'm surprised you were born here and haven't learned how to read yet, imo. Btw, Dad's 69 needs some spelling lessons also :)
Brock I do need the stainless, how's the condition of it?
Silver, I'm through trying to help you, and what words can't you understand of mine also? Your not doing a very good job of taking leasons here, but so be it. You seem to have all the knowledge you need to repair your piece of shit so I will now bow out and let you begin your restoration with no help from me, after 20 plus years, I think I've learned a few tricks that you'll never learn with your stubbornness, I mean with your head up your ass so far.
:popcrn:
I've seen it done Silvers way many times. It makes it easier to get to the edges this way. I had the impression it was just a rough first cut & edges were coming off later as he explained. BUT, If he was to leave the edges then Yes, this would definately be HACK work & wrong & unprofessional. I think he knows what he doing, Maybe?. Also, before these new full 1/4's came out what did you have before anyways, Cheap garbage poor fit, bottom half of a 1/4 garbage aftermarket. I've seen 1/4's put over the top of other 1/4's with out the old one even being cut off, Talk about Hack. LEON.
The taillight panel goes over the valance panel originally.
But the new rear valances are typical pieces of reproduction shite that don't cover up to anywhere near where the factory seams were.
Definitely get the new repro valance laying on the ground in front of you before you cut the car's old metal in that area.
it's the rear trunk lip piece & it's perfect,.. :icon_smile_wink: send me your mailing address..
good luck with your endevor... in anycase,.. :pity:
:rofl:
I don't suppose you guys know where to get a full quarter do you? If Silver needs to replace the *top* of the quarter then there's no other way currently (that I know of) to do that without using two pieces - a cut off, used part from a donor for the top and a repro quarter skin for the side. Yes, there will be a long weld down the side but every quarter replacement I've ever seen has had that weld because that's all the metal you get.
So maybe there's a better way to cut the old one off the car but it's not nearly as bad as I've seen (I'd have left the marker light hole personally). I actually took my floors out in little strips to be sure I didn't cut anything I wasn't supposed to (I'm overly cautious). The previous owner of my black car cut all the way around the rear body line and the welded the corners and bottom of the body (not the spot welds). The previous owner of my Barracuda used the hack-a-hole-and-overlap-the-metal-while-beating-with-a-hammer method. Both suck and will need to come back apart. I'd have been ecstatic if they had gone through this much effort.
Troy
Boy, this got ugly in a hurry.....I applaud silver for actually working on his car instead of the old "I am gonna fix 'er up some day"
Keep posting pics, I love watching them come apart and go back together.
Quote from: Troy on May 16, 2007, 10:53:49 AM
I don't suppose you guys know where to get a full quarter do you? If Silver needs to replace the *top* of the quarter then there's no other way currently (that I know of) to do that without using two pieces - a cut off, used part from a donor for the top and a repro quarter skin for the side. Yes, there will be a long weld down the side but every quarter replacement I've ever seen has had that weld because that's all the metal you get.
So maybe there's a better way to cut the old one off the car but it's not nearly as bad as I've seen (I'd have left the marker light hole personally). I actually took my floors out in little strips to be sure I didn't cut anything I wasn't supposed to (I'm overly cautious). The previous owner of my black car cut all the way around the rear body line and the welded the corners and bottom of the body (not the spot welds). The previous owner of my Barracuda used the hack-a-hole-and-overlap-the-metal-while-beating-with-a-hammer method. Both suck and will need to come back apart. I'd have been ecstatic if they had gone through this much effort.
Troy
Thanks Troy, glad someone actually reads and understand what Im attempting to do and doesn't tell me how many years they've been chopping up cars.
Ive got repro rear valance its pretty accurate except these two holes in the top, no idea what they're for. (possibly drain holes???)
ya your attempting to repair a car but in reality your just HACKING it up. You take digs at me like you just did and I'll do it right back. I read it fine. I just realize your doing a half assed job AT BEST.
Here are a few pix of my Charger in Progress. may shed some light...
Wow,
This is a brutal thread. I think an arm wrestling match is in order here. :pity: :pity:
Thank god I did not post any of my body work pic's, you guys would have chewed me a new hole.
another
next, should be similar on 68. a few sheet metal screw to hold in place
The holes you may speaking of are the bumper bracket holes. They align with the support in the trunk. You w1ll have to radius them for the bolts, as the last 2 valences I did don't fit perfect. It is a good piece though. Keep at it. I have alot of work ahead of me still. Just finshing hte pass outer wheel house and preparing to hang 1/4.
No i was talking about these holes. My original valance didn't have them
:popcrn:
:nutkick:
Quote from: BMOTOXSTAR on May 16, 2007, 09:22:33 PM
Wow,
This is a brutal thread. I think an arm wrestling match is in order here. :pity: :pity:
Thank god I did not post any of my body work pic's, you guys would have chewed me a new hole.
Agree.. Give the guy a break!
Quote from: Silver R/T on May 14, 2007, 12:19:50 AM
its not how you do it, it's how it is when its done that's all that matters.
im not gonna touch anything else about this thread but , every step is important to the end result, and if it wernt you should have just filled it full of filler and shot it cause there is no step thats any more important than the next or prior!!
I'm gonna tread carefully with this one...
If I were doing that car, YES, I'd try to find a full 1/4. It looks like there's at least 1/2 inch of Bondo in there, even on the top by the fuel door. If that part were good, of course I'd say skins are fine. I did one on my '69 with no problem. That 1/4 on your car is wasted.
Silver, since you have a '68, you may not have seen those holes in the valance before. They are for backup lamps on a '69 or '70. I guess the repop people just left those holes in there. You'll have to patch them shut, they don't belong there.
What baffles me most, is why you didn't take off any of the trim, tail lights, mouldings, etc?? :shruggy: I mean, you even left the side marker lamp still attached to the 1/4 when you cut it off??? :rofl: :ahum:
:popcrn:
Quote from: bill440rt on May 17, 2007, 09:20:43 PM
I'm gonna tread carefully with this one...
If I were doing that car, YES, I'd try to find a full 1/4. It looks like there's at least 1/2 inch of Bondo in there, even on the top by the fuel door. If that part were good, of course I'd say skins are fine. I did one on my '69 with no problem. That 1/4 on your car is wasted.
Silver, since you have a '68, you may not have seen those holes in the valance before. They are for backup lamps on a '69 or '70. I guess the repop people just left those holes in there. You'll have to patch them shut, they don't belong there.
What baffles me most, is why you didn't take off any of the trim, tail lights, mouldings, etc?? :shruggy: I mean, you even left the side marker lamp still attached to the 1/4 when you cut it off??? :rofl: :ahum:
Ive removed parts and will remove more as needed, trim, taillights, wiring.
:popcrn:
Yeah, First thing I would do is remove rear Bumper, Tailights, ect, ect. If I know I'm going to be cutting a 1/4 off. As they say though, more ways then one to skin a Cat (or 1/4 in this case). :scratchchin:
Whoa - - that quarter panel!!! I have to agree...if this was my car, I'D GO NUTS if somebody attemted what you are doing with two sections like that. Its a MAJOR undertaking to do correctly. Find a rust free donor car for that job dude, its too nice of a car to go without. I'm afraid that will be a wavy mess when its done because of the size . With the money and hassle (that you will have invested) in getting this thing straight.... stop now and save your money. Wait for the full quarter replacements to come out, or find a decent one that was correctly cut off a donor car.
Quote from: TUFCAT on May 20, 2007, 10:07:46 PM
Whoa - - that quarter panel!!! I have to agree...if this was my car, I'D GO NUTS if somebody attemted what you are doing with two sections like that. Its a MAJOR undertaking to do correctly. Find a rust free donor car for that job dude, its too nice of a car to go without. I'm afraid that will be a wavy mess when its done because of the size . With the money and hassle (that you will have invested) in getting this thing straight.... stop now and save your money. Wait for the full quarter replacements to come out, or find a decent one that was correctly cut off a donor car.
Repro quarters are out already. At $2500 not many will be sold, I won't be one of the buyers I can tell you that. Finding a rust free 2nd gen Charger FULL quarter is impossible
If that place in Georgia reproducing that Tailight panel can reproduce the 1/4's as they say for much cheaper then this would be a good alternative. LEON.
Sure it sounds expensive as hell, and especially when you don't have the $2500 burning a hole in your pocket! But given the fact that these cars are now well worth into the 30K range when properly done, your car is an actual investment. Just like anything, you get what you pay for in the long run...remember "time" is money also. Just my two cents. That's why my car isn't done yet - (I'm picky) - and not rich! However.....I've been known to spend more than I should for top quality parts when it comes to my cars :icon_smile_wink:
:popcrn:
Yeah, it's been covered on a bunch of other threads already.
$1500 for a set of full-coverage quarters would probably still sell a lot, but $2500 is past the tipping point for most people.
:popcrn:
Why are you sitting around eating popcorn? :RantExplode: Get back to work! :D
I found this a few months ago months ago. I am not trying to make anyone mad or choose a side so please no nasty replys.
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/mopp_0506_panel_rust_removal/
FJ6N96
The full set (2, one left & one right) is not $1,500 or $2,500 as mentioned but $2,300 each or $4,600 for a full set of 2. Thats alot for 2 1/4 panels considering $4,600 is more then alot of people want to pay for a entire Resto. LEON.
$4600 is bit cheap for entire resto but again that depends how bad is your Charger. I just spent $100 on trunk pan extension, many more $100's to go :)
If you ever worked in a Body shop you would have to see all the people that come in & say or think or figure Hey, If Maaco can paint my car for $300 then for $3,000 I should get a full blown Rotisserrie 100 point showcar. OR, I want my car restored. Then they say how long how much, 2 grand & 2 weeks. I feel like saying heres a Quarter, Buy yourself a Clue but you dont want to insult the Customer. If you dare say something like $50,000+ they get this really weird sour look on there face & call you crazy. Been there done that a million times. Really gets tiresome. I'm sure some of you out there know what I'm talking about? LEON.
ya I know, most people don't realize how much work is involved in painting a car, doing all the prep, masking, wet sanding, buffing.
Ok, I gotta comment...
Quote from: TUFCAT on May 20, 2007, 10:07:46 PM
Find a rust free donor car
Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha! :rofl: If there's a "rust-free" 68-70 Charger out there then it's worth waaaaaaaay too much to hack the quarter off. Maybe to restore a Hemi car? If you were talking floor pans or inner fenders then I'd agree because you could use a cheap(er) Satellite or Belvedere. Of course, I have a cut off factory quarter but it's for the other side and it cost more than my entire parts car (which has little usable sheet metal but isn't too bad). It'd be cheaper in this case to buy the $2,300 repro BUT they aren't available. You can't buy phantom parts and expect results. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do and, at this point, the only
feasible method seems to be splicing two pieces (unless someone wants to donate this magical rust-free factory quarter). The other option is to wait a year and hope for the best but I do believe this car was drivable before the work started. I'd rather drive mine looking like crap than see them sit in the garage in pieces. I have all four of mine like that now and I'm about to the point of making parts out of cardboard and stiff glue as long as paint will stick. :icon_smile_wink:
Troy
Quote from: Troy on May 24, 2007, 12:15:50 AM
I'd rather drive mine looking like crap than see them sit in the garage in pieces. I have all four of mine like that now and I'm about to the point of making parts out of cardboard and stiff glue as long as paint will stick. :icon_smile_wink:
Troy
:iagree:
I have been working on mine non stop since I got it but I am making sure to keep it driveable as much as I can. It didnt need the coat of primer I put on it either but it covers up my ugly faded brown paint, green drivers door, green front valance, and my yellow rear valance. Alot of things get temporary fixes right now too, because I cant afford to do it all show quality yet. But when the time comes for it to go to the bodyshop, I will have all my parts rounded up and a complete car to work with.
:hack:
:o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :scratchchin:
Hemi-Hampton is right!! :yesnod:
:badidea: HACK-JOB.
I don't care what you say.....still a hack-job :sorry: But true. THIS CAR NOW NEEDS A NEW QUARTER Period! :brickwall: :brickwall: :brickwall: .....remember "time" is money also.
There.... I said it :moon: Go ahead and hate me.
Silver..........I have to agree with most, from what I saw before you cut off the quarter, it was in
actually very good shape, and I would have only replaced lower quarters if it were me, you have
seen rust buckets, yours does not fall under that category.
OK, Having said that, and to answer a question I don't think anybody answered unless I missed
it. Those 1in holes on the top side of your new repop rear valance, are holes for the rear
backup light wires for the 69 and 70's. They just did not bother welding them up on our
68 repop panels......................
Hope I HELPED...............
Dan
8WHEELER:
"Silver..........I have to agree with most, from what I saw before you cut off the quarter, it was in
actually very good shape, and I would have only replaced lower quarters if it were me, you have
seen rust buckets, yours does not fall under that category."
Unfortunately if you look at these pictures, the quarter is not in very good shape. That's why I am replacing it, I wouldn't just start cutting off original metal off of R/T for no reason.
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/390000-390999/390777_59_full.jpg)
(http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/390000-390999/390777_60_full.jpg)
Ill try to save the top by pulling it out as much as I can with stud welder and metal finishing it. I'll try not to post much more as there's too many "know hows" with negative criticism. It seems it goes much better when guys just post pics after whole project is done.
From that angle it does look worse, I was not being an ASS, infact I was just trying to help.
Did I already tell you to fill those holes in on the rear valance? or do you just want to bite
into me for trying to help.............. maybe I will not try anymore........ I have been nice to you.
Dan
Quote from: 8WHEELER on June 11, 2007, 10:50:13 PM
From that angle it does look worse, I was not being an ASS, infact I was just trying to help.
Did I already tell you to fill those holes in on the rear valance? or do you just want to bite
into me for trying to help.............. maybe I will not try anymore........ I have been nice to you.
Dan
Im sorry if I confused you, I was not talking about you being ass. You're actually pretty cool about helping out other people on this board. I was talking about a few other guys that "went out of their way" for me on this topic lol. Ya I'll fill those holes in later.
I gotta give you one thing, atleast you're working on your car and getting it done. Mine is still sitting in the garage as a shelf.
Hope I'm not in with that negative crowd bunch, Just trying to help, I actually had your back there (somewhat) LEON. ::) :scratchchin:
:poke:
What happened to Silver???
No more pics so far, Im busy doing sprinkler system at the home, will post new pics as I get time
.
Quote from: Charger1973 on May 24, 2007, 01:24:08 AM
Quote from: Troy on May 24, 2007, 12:15:50 AM
I'd rather drive mine looking like crap than see them sit in the garage in pieces. I have all four of mine like that now and I'm about to the point of making parts out of cardboard and stiff glue as long as paint will stick. :icon_smile_wink:
Troy
:iagree:
Thanks Troy,
this was my thinking when I bought my car with the holes in the bottom rear corners of body, ugh, but could afford the car. I have saved and planned engine build to get it running, then stopped and sat on it when I realized how much there is to body work and doing it right and all that. Seeing these quarters cut off and the time and money involved is discouraging, but hey, what Troy wrote, gotta remember that was my plan. If I can drive around in a 68 440 with cheap body fix and paint, so what, still would be cool, can fix it right some day when I win lotto or get a way better job, or maybe price of quarters will go down. been debating if car is worth putting all the money into engine rebuild, but #$@%, of course it is, the body aint that bad, is it? I mean, I don't know.
I appreciate your thread and pics Silver.
(my brother's truck and trailer)
just to add my :Twocents:
i drove mine around from '84 till '89 with duct tape (black duct tape so it would match, lol) over the holes and rust, in fact my rear quarters were so bad there was a section a foot long and about eight inches high where there was no metal just some black lacqure paint that would actually flap and flex in and out... inside the trunk the metal was AWOL,.. so there was tape all over the place, on top of the fenders around the roof, and the dutchman,
I still got compliments though... :smilielol:
good luck with it Silver,.. in anycase..
your pm box is full
When welding on the drivers side quarter, what precautions do you need to take around the gas tank tube and tank parts? or welding in the trunk pan, thanks, Nate
Quote from: SeattleChargerDog on July 04, 2007, 09:35:10 PM
When welding on the drivers side quarter, what precautions do you need to take around the gas tank tube and tank parts? or welding in the trunk pan, thanks, Nate
remove the tank and filler is the best way to do it. it really isnt hard to remove a fuel tank on an old mopar. for the trunk pan DEFINATELY remove the tank. cause it sits damn near right up against it, and if the trunk pan is bad so is the fuel tank brace. i can about guarantee it.
These guys are a bunch of pussys! Just fill the tank before you start cutting and have at her :2thumbs: just kidding of course!
Quote from: Mean 318 on July 04, 2007, 11:16:09 PM
These guys are a bunch of pussys! Just fill the tank before you start cutting and have at her :2thumbs: just kidding of course!
nothing beats the excitement of using a torch around a tank of gas...chopped enough rear ends out of junkyards to know that :smilielol:
thats why they have welding blankets, you want to throw one on around weld area anyways, avoid weld splatter on your glass, especially rear glass that's $300+ used.
ill just remove the tank rather than using a welding blanket. welding blankets are still flammable, and once they light up they are hard to put out. Dont ask how I know this. Similar to pontiac firebird seatbelts, they light up in a flash and poof. gone. also for glass we have welding paper, a thick heavy duty paper with stick um on the back that you stick right onto the glass. works great and doesnt take very long to do.
Had enough time to do some work on it. Remowed valance, next will be right corner cap and left trunk pan extension and it all will be sandblasted where there's no por15
Are you going to be using the new AMD $600 (?) 1/4 panels. LEON.
I have Goodmark(sp) repro 1/4 and valance panel
Silver, Sorry to dig this old thread up but some people were asking about 1/4 replacement. Also curious on how your finished product looked, how'd it come out? No new updates in years? LEON. :scratchchin: :shruggy:
Am I a thread killer :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :scratchchin: :shruggy:
Wow.. :o..I just read thru this thread and was blown away about the attitude some guys had towards Silver....this got pretty personal in my opinion, Who cares if what he was doing was different then anybody else.......Its his car, people can make suggestions but to say "hack"?...That is just not called for....I have to commend Silver because If I had been on that end of a verbal assault I would have folded this thread up
I would like to see more on how this car progressed.. :2thumbs:
Quote from: hemi-hampton on July 15, 2009, 06:24:41 PM
Am I a thread killer :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :scratchchin: :shruggy:
I dont think Silver has posted very often in the last couple years. Maybe he hasnt seen this yet. :shruggy:
Quote from: PocketThunder on July 20, 2009, 11:50:59 AM
Quote from: hemi-hampton on July 15, 2009, 06:24:41 PM
Am I a thread killer :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :2guns: :scratchchin: :shruggy:
I dont think Silver has posted very often in the last couple years. Maybe he hasnt seen this yet. :shruggy:
Must have sold it :pity:.........I thought I was slooooooow!
If you check silvers post he has made 12 post in last week or since I made my comment 1 week ago. 2 of those post in the Paint/Body category so I'd have to disagree with that assessment or accusation. He's seen it, It just brings up bad memmories. :shruggy:
Quote from: hemi-hampton on July 20, 2009, 08:53:03 PM
If you check silvers post he has made 12 post in last week or since I made my comment 1 week ago. 2 of those post in the Paint/Body category so I'd have to disagree with that assessment or accusation. He's seen it, It just brings up bad memmories. :shruggy:
Ok. I'll give a shout out then... Silver.. where you at! :popcrn: :popcrn:
:popcrn: :popcrn: :popcrn:
Well some more pics as I've promised. All the haters were saying otherwise but I got it done. I sure don't have much time to work on it as I have full time job w/ over time and owning a house makes a lot of work that needs to be done around it.
And yes I did use patch panel for the top and then spliced 1/4 panel skin to that, unlike some members were saying was (impossible, bad idea, etc etc)
http://img532.imageshack.us/img532/7296/sep2403.jpg
http://img80.imageshack.us/i/dscn0142n.jpg/
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/654/dscn0143j.jpg
http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/4844/dscn0144k.jpg
http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/338/dscn0150el.jpg
More pictures to follow as I have time. Besides I'm working on speed boat for a guy that I will be painting soon....too much work.
Do you wish you would have gone with an AMD full quarter?
been busy by the looks of it Silver !! , keep the pictures coming dude love this kind of stuff :2thumbs:
Quote from: bull on June 03, 2010, 12:43:46 AM
Do you wish you would have gone with an AMD full quarter?
They weren't available yet when I started and at ~1K for a quarter panel I couldn't afford it anyways. Besides factory patch piece fit like a glove
Nice patch work :2thumbs:
Looks pretty good. Here's what it looked like when he bought it all the way back in 2003:
Rear valance was installed also
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/7499/aug0101.jpg
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4689/aug0103.jpg
http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/4356/dscn0047o.jpg
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7458/dscn0051u.jpg
http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/2377/dscn0166n.jpg
looks good so far !
thanks for sharing pics. what a difference, before and after, lucky you know how to do that, restored pro-right way, (I'm no expert, but sheetmetal replacement vs. bondo I can understand ;D) :2thumbs:
Hey Silver,
I regret the abuse you've been taking here. When a thread digresses to the point of name calling we've lowered ourselves to the level of other boards. With that said, I agree with 71green go's comment. On this board we all enjoy the benefit of professional mechanics, autobody men, upholsterers and electricians. I've restored a couple cars and our 69 will probably be the last.......just getting too old and its an expensive pursuit but I appreciate the methods used and the lessons learned here. Our professional automotive members do indeed know the best, easiest and fastest way to make a correct lasting repair/replacement. A great many, like me, rely on the expertise of these folks in the restoration process and our knowledge base thereof. True, I would not have proceeded the way you did but WTF its your car AND you are learning as you go. Thumbs up to you!
The fact is you are getting it done the best way you can with the funds and time available to you. It will take you longer to finish that entire quarter panel area because of how you began the cancer removal but you'll make it happen. Your last picture post shows the results of your determination. I've made plenty of mistakes with my car and its cost me more time and money to make it right...............its all part and parcel of this hobby we love. I've also enjoyed some great results as a direct benefit of the experience and knowledge of the more skilled members.
Silver, bottom line is it doesn't matter how you get there........just get there and you are! Cheers
Tom
So far so Good :2thumbs:
:2thumbs: LOOKS good to me. And did it my way :coolgleamA:
What's new here Max??
Got some primer on it while it's still warm
http://img526.imageshack.us/i/dscn0347z.jpg/
http://img248.imageshack.us/i/dscn0348d.jpg/
http://img41.imageshack.us/i/dscn0349y.jpg/
http://img31.imageshack.us/i/dscn0350w.jpg/
Looking good Silver! :2thumbs: I remember when I got my quarters in primer I was thrilled. Mine wasn't real rusty (I did have to put a couple of small patches in), but mine where beat up....lots of dent pulling and dolly hammering. I was sure glad to get those things in primer. Blocking those big things ain't no walk in the park either, lol.
Keep it up,
Jason
looks good :yesnod: :2thumbs:
Looks like you getting it smoothed out nice. Are you going for the filled seams on the the valance corners? Or do you need you clear the filler out of there still?
Wow! Looks great! That's come a long ways from the car we picked up and drove to your house way back when.
Quote from: 1HotDaytona on November 04, 2010, 07:52:05 AM
Looks like you getting it smoothed out nice. Are you going for the filled seams on the the valance corners? Or do you need you clear the filler out of there still?
Yes I filled that gap and blended body line into the corner. I think it looks much better imo. Some guys actually get rid of seam between rear valance and corners as well but I think I'll leave the way it is.