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#1
Interior / Re: Need pix of rear window de...
Last post by RTSE440 - Today at 02:12:48 AM
I have both the 2 speakers mounted and the defogger all you need is the fan mounted to the side were the square hole is and to use a longer pipe make sure you remove some of the insulation under the parcel tray so it sucks air from the speaker hole and the dip down area to the left of the square hole works perfectly 
#2
Here's what I use, I use greased metal sheets instead of the plastic for the turn plates.

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/diy-wheel-alignment-new-tools-tested/
#3
Off Topic Discussion / Re: When did you last: Pull an...
Last post by Kern Dog - Today at 02:02:38 AM


What year car? What is the evaporator out of?
[/quote]

It's a generic unit I got off of E-bay.
[/quote]

You didn't form the aluminum and make the evaporator yourself? You didn't "do it all" ??
You see how stupid that you come across?
Keep digging the hole. You are only making yourself look cocky and arrogant.
If you'd stick to tech issues, you'd be far better off. Bragging  is never a good way to present yourself.
I'd admit to being impressed with your work but it is obvious that you are impressed enough for all of us here. Instead of bragging, you could have STARTED a thread and written in more detail and helped others.
#4
Off Topic Discussion / Re: When did you last: Pull an...
Last post by Kern Dog - Today at 01:57:52 AM
Quote from: John_Kunkel on Today at 01:24:27 AMthat's what people who "do it all" do.

Did you make the mold and pour the aluminum into it, then machine it?
No, you didn't.
You clearly didn't "do it all" either.
#5
Interior / Re: Retrosound Redondo radio
Last post by RTSE440 - Today at 01:51:58 AM
Thanks Dino just wondering is that the screen savers that come with the radio if so what happens when the rear screen it lit up does the front interfere with the digital reading also what amp are you running and were did you mount it ? thanks ahead
#6
Working on the overdrive theme, how about a Mopar 833 OD...not the factory unit which is a 3-speed with an OD 4th gear but a actual 4-speed with OD. Again, gotta do it yourself but that's what people who "do it all" do. Same drill as the 727, machine the output shaft and fabricate an adapter plate to mate the R-11 OD unit. A push-pull cable selects OD or not and an electric solenoid engages the OD via some switches and relays. This one went into a '60 Studebaker Hawk with a Stude motor. Took lots more fabrication but that's what people who "do it all" do.
#7
You want an automatic overdrive transmission in an era when there were none? Well, gotta build it yourself...that's what people who "do it all" do. To install a Warner R-11 OD unit from a T-85 trans to a 727, first you machine the output shaft, then modify the tail housing to accept the OD unit. Black painted unit was my first, installed in a '53 Studebaker with an all-Mopar drivetrain. Obviously took lots of custom fabrication but that's what people who "do it all" do.
#8
Quote from: Kern Dog on Yesterday at 05:48:26 PMYour posts are getting deleted JOHN because you are an arrogant jerk that only comes around to BE an asshole.
Quote from: LaOtto70Charger on Yesterday at 06:18:35 PM
Quote from: John_Kunkel on Yesterday at 04:01:24 PMOr, instead of buying an A/C kit, design the layout, source the needed parts from various sources, fabricate the mounts, fabricate your own hoses and install a leak free system. That's called "doing it all".

What year car? What is the evaporator out of?

It's a generic unit I got off of E-bay.
#9
The YouTube channel "Junkerup" is owned by a guy known as Chris Birdsong. He is a member here under the name "CBRestorations" though he hasn't been active here in awhile. He posts videos mostly of stuff he does with 68-70 Chargers. recently, he did a video on doing front end alignments at home:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yAqZyr7JzCw&ab_channel=Junkerup%23chrisbirdsong

I've done toe adjustments at home before but never camber and caster. His video opened my eyes to how to do this at home. The stuff you'd need will add up to about $250 give or take but once you own them, all future alignments will be FREE. Cars, trucks, vans, SUVs....you'll be able to do them all.

I bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/HECASA-Plates-Wheel-Alignment-Aluminum/dp/B08CRKQRTY/ref=asc_df_B08CRKQRTY?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80882941400092&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584482468398847&psc=1

These allow you to measure toe with a tape measure.

And this:

https://www.amazon.com/Longacre-52-78260-C-C-Gauge-Magnetic/dp/B003750D7U/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_1/143-4833075-6157209?pd_rd_w=IWMPq&content-id=amzn1.sym.1ad2066f-97d2-4731-9356-36b3edf1ae04&pf_rd_p=1ad2066f-97d2-4731-9356-36b3edf1ae04&pf_rd_r=4FEJT1J7PB7DMBA5M3VG&pd_rd_wg=a8q9h&pd_rd_r=4682618d-2892-43c7-a74b-d8ddca9c9255&pd_rd_i=B003750D7U&psc=1

This gauge uses a bubble like in a level to measure caster and camber.
After that, you'd need some thin steel plates and string lines.
BOOM. Now you can do it yourself at your own leisure.
I ordered the stuff that I linked above. I just need get some steel plates.
#10
I like to do as much on my car as I can do. I'm not as skilled as a guy that spins wrenches for a living but I still jump in and give it a try.
On the list of things that I've left to professionals is tire mounting and balancing. I do have a tire machine but it cannot mount or dismount a tire over the 16" diameter.
I cannot machine an engine block or press in bearings and bushings either.
I've always had to see a pro to get a front end alignment too.
THAT is about to change.
When a customer gets a front end alignment, how does one know if the numbers you asked for are the numbers that you got? Even if you get a printout, can you trust that it is real and not just what the tech punched into the computer?
Recently I was on a 900 mile trip to Southern CA for a car show. While there, the low ride height caused me to drag the exhaust over some speed bumps so when I got home, I raised the car ONE inch.
Now, we all have been told that these Mopars are sensitive to alignment changes when the ride height is altered.
One inch shouldn't mean that much, right?
Not much, but there are some changes. See the chart below using the same 1973-76 A body disc brake knuckle I have on the car.

Align 2.jpg

This mapping of the alignment was in Mopar Muscle magazine in the early 2000s and written by Bill Reilly of the RMS coil over suspension systems. I'm not a fan of the coil over stuff but the information he discovered in the mapping of the alignment curves here are helpful.
He started off with zero camber at the ride height, 1.17 degrees of caster and .059 of toe IN.
Going one inch taller results in about half a degree of lost caster, a small increase in negative camber and more toe in.
Okay...File those tidbits away for the moment,
After I raised my car, I noticed that it would squeal the left front tire on sharp curves at speed. This car never squealed the front tires before.

295.jpg

These tires are 200 treadwear and very sticky.
In February last year I had it aligned at a trusted shop. I told them I wanted .75 degrees of negative camber, 1/8" toe in and as much caster as they could get. Since these were not "book specs", I had to pay for the alignment by the hour to the tune of $160. Not a terrible price if it is right though, right?
The man told me that they got 5 degrees of caster on the left and 5.5 on the right.
How do you know if it is right if you don't have a way to check it yourself? Are you a good enough driver to know just by feel?
I'm a decent driver but not that good.