My car is a 69 RT with a 440. I have rebuilt it stock with the vapor return line canister/filter. I have a napa fuel pump now that I want to replace with the above. When I was looking at it last night the Carter pump diaphragm diameter is larger than the NAPA pump. Was wondering if anyone is running the Carter pump with the stock canister and if it will fit without any issues.
Thanks
Lawrence
why would it not fit?? The problem you will have is the difference in the size of the pump Out port , and the size of your vapor inlet. The carter pump uses a threaded inlet and outlet instead of just a flared tube. So you will have to get the right size fitting and have a small piece of steel tube that your can slide your rubber hose over that connects between the pump and the canister.
I believe I am running the exact same pump. But I do not run the canister and just have my return line plugged off. I have it hard lined right from the pump up to my carb, with 3/8 line. The Same goes for the inlet side of the pump and have 3/8 from my tank into the pump. So every thing is the same size, no restrictions
Fits no problem
I got it on thanks guys. No more bogging at high rpm ;D
I still have the requirement to prime the bowls of the carb after the car sits for 24 hours.
My gas gauge does not read correctly and I have the ground strap on at the rear. I bought a new sending unit, and will install. I am hoping that the sock around the fuel pickup is nasty or maybe there is a pin hole in the system somewhere that is causing a vacuum leak or maybe a loose rubber line. After I put in the sending and I still have the problem. I guess I will by pass the vapor canister and see if that is the culprit? If that is not the culprit I guess I will change out the fuel pump push rod. Engine builder does not recall if he installed a new one or not? However, prior to this build I was not having this issue. What is different is the vapor return line hooked up and the vapor canister in place. Have read there were some bad vapor canister circulating around? Will let you guys know what I find out.
For your gas gauge - you should have a "pulsed" 12 v, or approx 5.5 avg at the sending unit wire when checked between the wire, unconnected and a good ground. If you have no voltage, start w the voltage limiter at the cluster.
Quote from: Sixt8Chrgr on November 04, 2018, 07:27:47 AM
I got it on thanks guys. No more bogging at high rpm ;D
I still have the requirement to prime the bowls of the carb after the car sits for 24 hours.
My gas gauge does not read correctly and I have the ground strap on at the rear. I bought a new sending unit, and will install. I am hoping that the sock around the fuel pickup is nasty or maybe there is a pin hole in the system somewhere that is causing a vacuum leak or maybe a loose rubber line. After I put in the sending and I still have the problem. I guess I will by pass the vapor canister and see if that is the culprit? If that is not the culprit I guess I will change out the fuel pump push rod. Engine builder does not recall if he installed a new one or not? However, prior to this build I was not having this issue. What is different is the vapor return line hooked up and the vapor canister in place. Have read there were some bad vapor canister circulating around? Will let you guys know what I find out.
At one time there was a problem with the vapor separator in that the reproductions did not have the restriction orifice in the vapor return nozzle. Maybe you got an old one. :shruggy: Easy to check, just disconnect the return line and let the vapor return bleed into a container. Run the engine, it should be a little thin stream, not a big gushing stream. Or just disconnect and plug the vapor return and see if your problem is fixed. Lack of the orifice starves the carb.
I believe I solved the problem by replacing the leather bushing accelerator pump with a rubber one. So far so good, but did have an issue this evening. I believe I flooded the car trying to start it. Since I restored the car have had this issue so really working on what is the right way to start the car! If this does not work I will adjust the float to let more gas in so it can make its way to the accelerator pump