Went to fire car up today for the first time in 4 months or so and it turns over and gets gas but wont fire. Dumb question, do I need the wiper motor (out for repair) plugged into the harness to so it will fire?
Yes, but you can bypass the neural safety switch that the wipe harness has.
ahhh..is it supposed to still turn over?
Off the top of my head I can see no reason why it wouldn't start with the wiper not plugged in. You mentioned it cranks over already so that rules out any neutral safety switch wiring. I will look at my FSM when I get home today to double check wiring. Is it getting spark?
Not sure if it's getting spark or not, its definitely getting gas.
I swapped plugs out is about all I have done to it sense parking it in the fall
Double check the plug wire order?
Maybe you knocked something lose when wiper motor was removed? I would check for spark.
Quote from: M5Ivan on April 03, 2017, 12:42:26 PM
Double check the plug wire order?
I did 1 at a time and the way the wires are and looms there is no way to goof it up...wires wont reach other plugs ; )
Quote from: 68 RT on April 03, 2017, 12:43:12 PM
Maybe you knocked something lose when wiper motor was removed? I would check for spark.
That is possible, wiper motor is shipping back to me today hopefully so I will try again when I get that re installed.
I had to rig a NSS because it is an auto now and has the old 4 speed harness still.
Need to check for spark. Check your voltage at the coil
Quote from: NHCharger on April 06, 2017, 11:40:43 AM
Need to check for spark. Check your voltage at the coil
I'm running a FireCore Performance CD R2R Mini Coil. Literally has less than 1000 miles on it. I get the wiper motor back today so ill install that and give it a try, if no spark how would I go about checking v at coil? Meter on coil + and - and when turning over should see 12 v?
I'm also running the Firecore RTR system with the square mini coil. Check the + connector on the bottom of the coil where the wire from the engine harness ties in. you need 12 volts ( or real close to it ) in both the run and crank position.
If you have proper voltage then check your reluctor gap in the distributor. It should be around .010.
Had the same problem after one year with the RTR system. Screw backed off and reluctor gap was .020. Which means no spark.
To test for voltage with meter. One on +, other to ground on frame or motor
OK so I got it running. I re installed the wiper motor (thank you again Kim from http://www.passion4mopars.com) got in the car, hit the key and it turned over but didn't sound like it was even trying to spark. I accidentally hit the dimmer switch on the floor, turned it back over and BAM! fired right up.
Is the dimmer 12 v?
I may ( I am running the Dakota digital cluster) have the const power and the dimmer reversed going into the Dakota digital box.
I have sense been able to start normally no dimmer or lights on..not sure what the heck happened
Thanks for the help and advice!
OK so it happened again, went out, fired it up, stalled now no juice. I am getting .8 ohms testing coil. I popped the dist cap and noticed (I do not know what is what inside dist) The black square maybe its the reluctor was sort of loose in there and when I moved it closer to the main rotor piece it fired right up, seems like this is loose like you said. What screw do I tighten to fix this?
Quote from: NHCharger on April 06, 2017, 03:39:52 PM
If you have proper voltage then check your reluctor gap in the distributor. It should be around .010.
Had the same problem after one year with the RTR system. Screw backed off and reluctor gap was .020. Which means no spark.
I'll check when I get home tonight.
Do you have an in line spark tester?
Quote from: NHCharger on April 24, 2017, 08:26:57 AM
I'll check when I get home tonight.
Do you have an in line spark tester?
Yup I bought one yesterday, no spark at all until I moved that closer in the distributor. Then it fired right up. The ability to move it around in there I think is the problem.
Thanks!
Remove the rotor cap. You need to line up the tip of the reluctor to one of the tips on the shaft. Check the gap with a brass feeler gauge. as I mentioned it should be about .010.
I believe this bolt is the one that you need to tighten. Just check them both to be sure.
Thank You! Exactly what I did last night, The screw seemed pretty tight but I backed it out a bit, put some loc tite on it and tightened it as much as possible with my .010 feeler gauge in place.
I called Firecore yesterday and talked to someone and he told me it is in the instructions to do this, which it is and I did do that last year. Then he mentioned it's part of maintenance. I don't think I should have to pop this thing open every 1000 miles to tighten a screw and reset the gap.