How would you remove the fuel level unit from the tank.
A suggestion was to re-use it when replacing the tank.
I removed the lock ring but don't see an easy way to remove the unit without damaging it.
I can see a black seal but it is very hard.
Just pull it out and will get loosen. Then will need to twist around it to sway the floater and tube bents from the opening. You'll figure it out.
You just going to have to wiggle it.... You can try a small flat head to try and break the seal if its really stuck in there.
Then just pull it out.
Okay, I will try tomorrow.
Can a replacement seal be found?
And what is it called?
You can call it a ''sending unit to fuel tank seal''. Save your old lock ring. Some will say the new lock rings are thinner and will not make a good seal.
Thank You Everyone
John
Reusing the sending unit is fine if it reads properly. You may want to change out the sock that goes over the suction line and also check the float to make sure there is no liquid gasoline in side of it. If there is some liquid inside of the float, it is leaking and would also need to be changed. Which is easy to do.
Yes you can get a new gasket. They usually come with a new lock ring as well, at least the one i bought last year from Napa did.
I tested the resistances of the original sender. It was totally Bad, no variation with travel.
So, I bought a new one from Summit.
The resistances tested good. 8 ohms to 75 ohms.
Problem installing.
It appears that the low point of the sender touches the bottom of the tank before the flange lays flat on the seal.
I am not sure how and where to tweek the tube to raise the the lowest point about 1/8, I think, of an inch up.
Quote from: john108 on April 11, 2020, 09:09:39 PM
I tested the resistances of the original sender. It was totally Bad, no variation with travel.
So, I bought a new one from Summit.
The resistances tested good. 8 ohms to 75 ohms.
Problem installing.
It appears that the low point of the sender touches the bottom of the tank before the flange lays flat on the seal.
I am not sure how and where to tweek the tube to raise the the lowest point about 1/8, I think, of an inch up.
You want it to be as low as possible, like an oil pickup. See if you can push on it a tiny bit to get it in place. The ohm spec is close to the FSM spec, 73 ohm empty and 9.6 ohm full. The linearity will likely be off, as noted lots of times.
You want it to be as low as possible, like an oil pickup. See if you can push on it a tiny bit to get it in place. The ohm spec is close to the FSM spec, 73 ohm empty and 9.6 ohm full. The linearity will likely be off, as noted lots of times.
Are you sure you have your resistance the proper way ?
I always thought the more ohm would make the gas gauge move over to Full mark
Bronzedodge is correct. If you want to calibrate your gauge you put a 10ohm resistor between ground and the gauges input lug and then tweek the gauge mechanism to show FULL. 73 empty. Think of the gauge as a volt meter.. no resistance gives the meter a full sweep, resistance in the line lowers the voltage = less sweep.
Hey guys, I am checking my fuel gauge as well and hopefully will not need a new one. So is Summit the best sending unit to get? I have read multiple posts that all lead to the same ending that all sending units are not accurate. I could not find a sticky or write up to solve this issue. I did find someone say to remove the old resistance box and install on the new unit. What is the reason the original units fail? Is it not caused by this resistance box if the readings from the sending unit are not accurate? Also, I do not understand what it means to have a linear resistance versus a nonlinear or not sure what it was called and how this will affect the gauge accuracy? I really only need to know when to get more gas so i don't have to drive around with a small gas tank in the trunk for when I get stranded. Right now I fill her up everytime I take her out and she only seems to get stranded when I drive with the wifey.
Thanks,
Chris