Got my A Pillar wind reflectors on. Now I feel that all my other pics are obsolete.
(http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/6715/daytona22tj.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/4314/daytona43pv.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
Ok, now send that ride over to my adress in Sweden :yesnod:
Its an awsome looking ride...
/Tom
Really Nice! That little bit 'o bling sure adds alot! :icon_smile_big:
BTW: I really like the body work over the front side marker, seems perfect to my eye where the originals looked kinda hacked togeather.
looks as clean as a toy car
My hat is off to you......That is one Awesome Ride! :drool5:
I'm jealous on two fronts.
One, the car is beautiful.
Two, how do you get your grass that green....I gotta go do some yard work :-[
:drool5: :drool5: That is simply awesome looking!! What more can we say!! Awesome!
Damn the grass is very green :o! The car is absolutely breathtaking. :2thumbs:
Quote from: 69pistolgripRT on July 23, 2005, 07:36:11 PM
I'm jealous on two fronts.
One, the car is beautiful.
Two, how do you get your grass that green....I gotta go do some yard work :-[
:iagree:
What a beautfil car. :drool5:
Great work, Dane! :2thumbs:
Johnny
Dane,
Now the big question.
Did you buy them or make them?
If you bought them...how much and who made them?
If you made them ...how much for a set for me?
I'm taking notes. There's going to be a pop quiz next year...when I start building my Daytona clone.
BTW, as you already know, the car looks great. Of course they've all looked great. lol
If you started a new build right now, would you suggest the best choice for each part, i.e. manufacturer, fiberglass or metal, etc. I plan to keep the car probably for the rest of my life so I'm thinking metal parts over fiberglass for the long term durability. The way I see it, fiberglass won't be cheaper if you're having to repair or replace and then repaint every few years. I've even priced the steel nose, about 7 grand plus components. I build quality cars and in this part of the country it's kind of expected of me, kind of like with you and the Daytona clones.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Keep the new pics coming. I've created a new folder. "Dane Pics" lol
I do like a Yellow Charger
Quote from: hotrod98 on July 23, 2005, 10:20:05 PM
Dane,
Now the big question.
Did you buy them or make them?
If you bought them...how much and who made them?
If you made them ...how much for a set for me?
I'm taking notes. There's going to be a pop quiz next year...when I start building my Daytona clone.
BTW, as you already know, the car looks great. Of course they've all looked great. lol
If you started a new build right now, would you suggest the best choice for each part, i.e. manufacturer, fiberglass or metal, etc. I plan to keep the car probably for the rest of my life so I'm thinking metal parts over fiberglass for the long term durability. The way I see it, fiberglass won't be cheaper if you're having to repair or replace and then repaint every few years. I've even priced the steel nose, about 7 grand plus components. I build quality cars and in this part of the country it's kind of expected of me, kind of like with you and the Daytona clones.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Keep the new pics coming. I've created a new folder. "Dane Pics" lol
By the way, thank you guys and Lady, for your compliments. I love seeing these cars- Chargers of all kinds. I too have folders filled with your cars as well.
I believe I did a whole post on parts and how to get them from. Now everything is running together. I cannot remember if I did that in this post or DC.com right before it went down. I will check it out. I do not know of anyone doing steal noses. The only guy I know who does steel noses does them periodically. Roughly steel parts will run upward of 20,000.00 with a long wait time. If you got the money, have at it.
Just found it -These numbers are close.
All depends…I hope not to make people mad by what I say here. These are just my findings and my experiences. I will give you my belief and experience in the matter. We are all different.
Any nose
Stinger - 650.00 Will need some modification
Janak - 1000.00 - 1500.00 - Good Mold
Show Cars - 1000.00 Fair mold
Daylona - 1500.00
Wing
Show Cars - Glass Wing - 1500.00 - Not what I would do
Dayclona - 3000.00 - Sheet Metal - Not quite the right shape
Janak - Glass wing - 1500.00 - 2000.00 - Not what I would do
Rear plug.
Janak - Glass Plug - 700.00 - Will crack and shrink - Will need reinforcement - Glass - and altered chrome trim
Dayclona - Steel - 2400 - Will need reinforcement - Glass - and altered chrome trim
Vega Hatch - Steel - 100.00 local wrecker - Has glass and trim
Headlight
Do what you want.
Grill - complete
Dayclona - 300.00 Worth it
Show Cars - 200.00 Not worth it
Stinger - Not quite right but affordable
Trunk Bracing
Dayclona - Steel - 200.00 a set - Hands down - the way to go.
Fender scoops
Take your pick
Wind Reflectors
Erik Nelson - 500.00 - Well done
Lower valance
Dayclona - 2000.00 - steel -
Show cars - 400.00 - Nice
Janak - 500.00 - Nice
Stinger - Do not know
Mounting parts are all up to you and your engineering. Or, you can pay for them.
I would like to say that I have talked with and seen many of these parts. I would like to say that they all do good work. These are just my opinions to try and help the buyer make an informed decision.
Almost all after market parts will be different. I make most of my parts, but even parts that I have bought I modify to fit the way I want them to fit. Nose cones are a must modification to fit right no matter what.
Personally I would go with a cast aluminum wing. They are less expensive and are exact in shape, but about a 1/2 inch shorter. The human eye will never see it. They weigh 85 pounds. I just do not trust the glass wing. I see it cracking. The Dayclona wing is well done, but from what I can see the base of the wing has wrong radiuses in their compound curves. Do not get me wrong. I cannot believe they can make these, but for the money I would want mine perfect in shape.
I would go with the Vega Hatch for the rear plug. Even Dayclona's rear plug would require added reinforcements. Plus you will need to get a plastic rear window that will either scratch or sag (coflow)over time. The trim will be near impossible to find.
I am irritated with "Show Cars". They send their glass parts without gel coat and their parts are flimsy and thin. Plus they take for ever to get you the parts. My note to them is - Deliver or send people their money back. But they do a good job on shipping. Others should learn from them on who to use when shipping.
(http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/7641/wingtrueyellow2ym.jpg) (http://www.imageshack.us)
(http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8959/greenwingwrong6bm.jpg) (http://www.imageshack.us)
Dane, what about trunk lid hinges? I made my last ones, but they weren't perfect. They were close and functional, but couldn't get bend just right. I brought my clone project in from the weather and have started to strip it for the (transformation). Rick
Thats a great looking car Daytona Guy!! :drool5:
Drooooooooool :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5: :drool5:
Ron
Dane,
You mentioned the aluminum wing, but who builds it and how much?
Quote from: wetfeetmi on July 24, 2005, 06:53:40 AM
Dane, what about trunk lid hinges? I made my last ones, but they weren't perfect. They were close and functional, but couldn't get bend just right. I brought my clone project in from the weather and have started to strip it for the (transformation). Rick
Dane would know for sure but I wouldn't think there would be any difference between the hinges on a Daytona clone and a regular Charger. The lid is shorter but why would the hinges be any different?
:popcrn:
The hinges are most definitely different. Remember, you're no longer using the same dutchman panel above the deck lid. The angle's different. The stock panel is almost flat and the Daytona style panel is at a slope as is the back glass.
I believe that there is a gentleman in Georgia who is hand fabricating steel nose cones for Daytona's. I believe that they run for about $7,500.
I have seen NOS daytona nose cones go for as much as $35,000 in the past few months.
As far as the wind deflectors are concerned, the ones the Mr. Nelson makes i've viewed and unless he has changed his product I wasn't too impressed with them. I viewed a cloned Daytona at Carlisle that was sporting his wind deflectors, and you could definately tell they were repro's even from a distance.
You decide. Some of his first ones were rough. But the ones I have compare fairly well with the original.
(http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/4743/pict09868bl.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
That car is spectacular.
More pics. Might be in a Snap on calander. What pic should I go with?
(http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/5861/newawesomeone20ln.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
(http://img348.imageshack.us/img348/5770/rearbig26wk.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
I say go with the rear view. It shows off that wing.
please tell me Who is making wind deflectors
hey daytonalo
call this guy Erik 612-382-4723 i think there about $500.
Quote from: BigBlockSam on October 27, 2005, 02:36:38 PM
hey daytonalo
call this guy Erik 612-382-4723 i think there about $500.
Wow, this guy is in Minneapolis? That is just down the road a stretch...
def. the rear
Quote from: Blown70 on October 27, 2005, 03:05:14 PM
Quote from: BigBlockSam on October 27, 2005, 02:36:38 PM
hey daytonalo
call this guy Erik 612-382-4723 i think there about $500.
Wow, this guy is in Minneapolis? That is just down the road a stretch...
Actually he lives in Woodbury. An East Metro suburb. I met him at Mopars in the Park this summer. Nice guy, he has an original daytona.
Nice daytona guy they add to your car Eric Nelson has a real daytona and reproduces such needed items .Maybe he will do the rear window trim someday .Thank you for your fair and unbiased assement of repro parts vendors you mentioned.The current wingcar partsand suppliers and providers without making the insulting remarks about TX parts supplier as the dayclona and there associates often bad mouth .The differences are I defend my friend and longtime parts supplier.As we built many of cars and to date.Were Ive gotten parts from and had no defects.As you are led to believe that all parts from TX are somehow inferior as dayclona and associates dictate.Though I can present many to this day known cars with fiberglass parts and 0 problems who bought and installed parts in the late 77-78 and early 80-s and to current day .And find that not acceptable .But all this comes from a dayclona orginization and there associates whos sole purpose is to solicit here and pedal his friends Mikes parts. While taking shots at the competetion in TX.I only speak up for my friend and his parts when they are under attack.Im not doing a sales pitch in every thread.Or making negative evaluatations of anyone else who supplys this wing car parts and clone industry .Thats your differences.What modifications have to be done to the stinger nosecone .A local friend is getting one .And I would be helping out where I can.On his first daytona replica attempt
I had seen my first Superbird at age 12 or 13 in my neighborhood growing up.And have owned a few wingcars since then.And do all my own mechanical work and rewire cars.Thanks to WW & DSAC for years of informational newsletters
1969 Daytona 440 Presently owned
1970 Coronet 500 383 Presently owned
1970 Superbird 440 U 166242
1970 Superbird 440 U 174597
1970 Superbird 440-6 V 179697
1970 Coronet RT 440 U 224126
1968 Road Runner 426 J 134509
1970 Daytona Replica 318 G 178701
i love the daytonas, clones or not, :yesnod: but these bash fests are annoying and from now on i'm just skippin past them... :rotz:
as regards the delfectors,.. do ya notice any difference at speed with them?.. wind noise less?.. any faster?... :icon_smile_wink:
Just finished hand forming trunk lid cap in steel ! Had access to real daytona trunk lid and duplicated cap. If anyone could let me know # of the person fabing hinges
also need # of guy who has alum wing . Thank you
Okay, now you've got my attention.
How well did that trunk cap turn out in steel? I've looked at them and didn't want to tackle that project. I keep hoping Gene Gregory or someone would build them. Gene is coming by the shop this Saturday and I was planning to ask him about this very thing. Gene is strongly thinking about getting back into the wing car stuff starting with a steel nose for the superbird. He also said that he won't bother with any steel item that is already being reproduced correctly since it would not be profitable to have two vendors with the same product since the tooling cost is so high. He estimates that the nose cone shell will run around 10k. Too high for my wife's bird clone, but would be great for anyone with a real car.
Dane (Daytona Guy) is building the aluminum wings.
Would be great if you posted a pic of the trunk cap that you made.
Dane did a foundry run of aluminum wings a couple of months ago. He said that was all he would do for a couple of years. You had to pre-pay and I believe they were all spoken for. I received mine last week.
3X
The cap project goes like this cut outer skin of deck lid FIRST do cut the inside of lid at this time . Measure 21.5 across center of lid and 21 5/8 on right and left sides connect those marks with a straight edge which means you will have to slightly curve the straight edge . When completed rhe line should have a slight smile in it . After you have the first line done add 1/2 inch to that and make another line and cut on the second line which should be 22 '' in center and 22 1/8 on both sides !. ONLY CUT THRU OUTER SKIN AT THIS TIME!. Now the inside brace flip deck over on padded saw horses and mearure 18 1/2 inches from rear to front in center then right and left sides , then make line across then only cut brace with cut off wheel BE CAREFULL NOT TO CUT THRU OUTSIDE OF DECK LID, IF YOU DO YOU MIGHT HAVE TO THROW IT AWAY. The next step is to bend the front edge of deck lid at 90 degrees @ 21 1/2 and 21 5/8 with wide metal pliers and work that edge very slowly. You have to dolly that edge to make it perfect. When that is done trim that 90 down to 1/4 inch from bend . I started with 20 gauge metal 7'' by 60'' and started bending the small humps by hand then I tacked welded it and formed with body hammer when this part is done it will use a skim coat to clean it up . The large humps wher the most diffucult to do. Keep working along tacking and forming all the way to outside , then I made a cut down the hump and folded it over at an angle and welded it together , and but welded some metal to fill the gaps. After that I pulled the cap off and trimmed it down to 3'' tall. it was a ton of work but I wanted to prove to myself it could be done
I kind of lost you at "The cap project goes like this". lol No, actually I do know what you're saying. But, I have two good body men working for me and I'm going to go out in the shop right now and kind of mention that I don't think they have the capability to do something like this. Hopefully it will save me a lot of work.
How about some pics?
I will very soon
Quote kind of lost you at "The cap project goes like this".
:iagree: i 'd like to see some pics too. Please
Dang.... :o
That is one sweet ride dude. I am totally jeolous.
<<<<What modifications have to be done to the stinger nosecone .A local friend is getting one .And I would be helping out where I can.On his first daytona replica attempt>>>
The Stinger nose that I got needed the sides and top modified. The side where too straight, needed to match the fender more. The top of the nose over the lights sagged and needed a lift. I have had to modify all of the noses I got.
The Original noses where hand made and they used a hardwood mold. They are made in four pieces and welded together. There is hardly an original Daytona nose that is the same. If someone could carve out a mold, anyone could make a steal nose. The top of the nose is relatively flat. I am thinking of doing this in the future.
Attached are pics of the truck lid cap. To finish needs skim coat of filler.
Larry
Thanks for the pics. That's some pretty good sheet metal work. I was thinking about buying the fiberglass piece and using it as a reference to build a steel piece. I'll bet you've got some hours in that project.
Now, how are you going to get the curvature in that front trunk opening lip to match the curvature in the front edge of the deck lid? Can it be heated and curved or was it made with the curve in it? It looks straight in the pic. I've never tried to do something like that with a stepped piece of steel.
Your correct I have about 20 hrs in the cap and cap and cutting back lid and making 90 degree bend . The channel was made on a brake and then I made several relief cuts and worked the radius that matched the contour of front of deck
Also, save yourself a world of hurt, and mount your headliner pricks around your back window before you add the rear window. I made this mistake on most of my other Daytona's except my Yellow one. Then buy some extra inside trim from Year one and fit it all together.
(http://img477.imageshack.us/img477/230/headliner5km.jpg) (http://imageshack.us)
hey daytonalo , god dam your doing some kick ass work. we're all watching you. , and i'll buy you the first drink. thanks for sharing . rene
Dane,
Which of the inside rear window trim kits will be needed? Since the vega back glass is not the same shape as the daytona glass, I assume that the daytona kit from year one would not work. I'm getting ready to place an order from year one and would like to go ahead and buy the trim.
Very good work .Daytonalo is very resoucrefull and will make whatever needed piece or parts .when necessary.Keep up the goodwork and thanks for sharing your tech tips
QuoteDane,
Which of the inside rear window trim kits will be needed? Since the vega back glass is not the same shape as the daytona glass, I assume that the daytona kit from year one would not work. I'm getting ready to place an order from year one and would like to go ahead and buy the trim
:iagree:
don't forget to order the wing gaskets, they'll show you were to install your wing studs. Rene
Rene, Actually the gaskets are at the top of the list. There's a few things that I need for the chal convert so I'm starting a new year one list. I still haven't found time to start working on the wings. This GTX seems to be taking forever to finish. No idea when I can start on the clone.
I had my old trim and I ordered the 5 piece set. You heat up the trim and it takes the shape you give it. I did not use the small corner trim. The pic shows that. I used the pricks from my rear window and modified the shape to fit the Vega.
Daytonalo is doing an exceptional job. We all Salute. :wave:
for those about to rock we We all Salute you :wave:
Hey Daytonalo,Dayclona makes the hinges.Mike used my Charger 500,for the template,they fit and function as original.
Thanks to everyone who responded .I'm new to this site and everyone been very friendly . I'm a very determined individual and with great sites like this we can all benefit, Just think back before computers! I have a powdercoat business, if any one has any questions
Larry
I have a I'm sure a simple question for you guys, what do I do on the rear speaker shelf in regards to different level of shelf and new area behind shelf created after window plug was installed
Yeah Dane........what do we do about that? lol He's our resident daytona clone guru whether he likes it or not.
I'm sure that you've noticed that YearOne has the package tray and headliner for the daytona.
i don't know if the year one stuff will fit.the clone is not eact to an original. Rene
I supplied my friend in TX way back some years a real 500 trunk lid and hinges for fabrication purposes.I have to commend daytonalo on his build up .Not everyone has the extra $$$ to shell out .And he makes what he needs.Or makes something work.As for the package tray I got mine for my daytona from legendary.Probably the same one years one has.Also I got that plastic surrounding the window that usually breaks and is rotted from .Trim parts .Dont know if it will be any help with the vega plug .Or what mods needs to be done to a existing daytona/500 package tray.For use with the vega plug .But I might go gather up some more vega hatchback lids.I turned daytonalo on to the last one I found.As I heard the glass might work in a real 500/daytona.But it doesnt make it.But still keep a few around for future friends doing daytona clones
hey wingcars6970
if you find a vega hatch, i'd be interested in it. i live in nj, i'm acquiring parts for my next Daytona. thanks Rene
:popcrn: :drool5: :popcrn: :drool5: :popcrn: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: :2thumbs: