Went to pick up the car from my chassis guy and I got to see the frame ties he made and installed for the first time today....... He did a GREAT job! He even incorporated a driveshaft loop with the frame ties. I had him do some other work as well (Dana tubes welded and some repair work on the upper shock mounts). I think the look good as well as a lot stronger then the Mopar performance ones. The car drives so much better now, it's like a different car. If anyone wants QUALITY chassis work done at a reasonable price this is the guy to go too! The guy's name is Dominick at Victory Lane Customs in Stony Creek NY, 518-696-7226...The guy really knows his stuff!
So what do you guys think?
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Damn Doug! That looks excellent. Looks like he did a bang up job on it. Did he paint that the color silver of your car too or is that just the natural color of the steel? All in all, looks fantastic. :2thumbs:
Thanks! I gave him some paint I had leftover.....I think he did an excellent job! :2thumbs:
Nice work! E-brake cable looks nicely "dealt with" through the connectors as well :thumbs:
Very Nice! and nice clean undercarriage. :2thumbs:
is that a Denny's driveshaft? those connectors look very nice. awesome incorporation of the driveshaft loop. very clean job. do you know if he welded that with stick or mig? kinda looks like stick. :scratchchin:
Oh shit! That's some beautiful work. Looks very nice, and BEEFY! :2thumbs:
Nice job ! I made and installed the same type ! Ripped them out and installed U.S car tool and they look factory and will far out strengthen because they weld to the floor and front and back .
Larry
Man those look good Doug! Yours too Larry. :2thumbs:
Quote from: daytonalo on March 23, 2008, 12:25:09 AM
Nice job ! I made and installed the same type ! Ripped them out and installed U.S car tool and they look factory and will far out strengthen because they weld to the floor and front and back .
Larry
It was to late in the game for me to install the U.S.Car Tool ones,besides I wanted to be able to have them removeable at a later date (being a factory Hemi car). I showed him the Mopar performance ones and he just laughed! Told me to toss them in a scrap bin.The ones he made have a bigger wall thickness and are completely boxed.
Doug, very nice installation....Fantastic work ! :bow:
I really like how he fabbed in the driveshaft loop :2thumbs:
Have you driven the car yet ?
Ron
Thanks Ron! yes, I did drive it down to the gas station when I got home (put $50 bucks in it :o). It's a different car now. no more squeaks and rattles, car feels solid. I can't wait to see what she does with the Cal Tracs and slicks!. Still is lighting them up at a whim though.... :icon_smile_big:. I should have most of the stuff in next week. I'll mock them up in the garage and T&T at Atco in May. I have to turn to the driveline next.... :coolgleamA:
Quote from: Hemidoug on March 23, 2008, 09:56:06 AM
Thanks Ron! yes, I did drive it down to the gas station when I got home (put $50 bucks in it :o). It's a different car now. no more squeaks and rattles, car feels solid.
Only 50 bucks huh....what did that buy 1/2 a tank :lol:
I Knew you would like those frame connectors ;)
Quote from: Hemidoug on March 23, 2008, 09:56:06 AM
I can't wait to see what she does with the Cal Tracs and slicks!
The Caltracs and slicks will make a huge difference in the hook department. Just a suggestion : use a stiffwall slick or Drag Radial because the car is heavy. You can run these at 18-20 psi and the car will react better on the launch. I'm considering a 30x9 radial slick for mine if i can't get a set of 295/65 MT drag radials. You can run the 30x9's on an 8in wheel also....heck mount them on your Magnums and go racing. :icon_smile_cool:
The stocker guys with heavy cars run the 30x9's with excellent results. ;)
Ok, enough of my advice....i'm giving up too much info. :D That Hemi of yours is gonna :spank: mine if i keep supplying information. :lol:
Ron
30 x 9 eh? :scratchchin: The guy (owner) at Cal trac told me to stick with slicks on a 4 spd car....drag radials have too stiff a sidewall and don't recover as well as a slick. He recommended the M/T slicks or the Hoosier Quick Time pros...I was thinking of going with a 28 inch slick as that is the same dia as the tire I have now. I was going to use some 15 x 8 steel rims I have in the shed and screw the slicks to the rim. Should I run tubes or not?
Quote from: Hemidoug on March 23, 2008, 11:32:55 AM
30 x 9 eh? :scratchchin: The guy (owner) at Cal trac told me to stick with slicks on a 4 spd car....drag radials have too stiff a sidewall and don't recover as well as a slick. He recommended the M/T slicks or the Hoosier Quick Time pros...I was thinking of going with a 28 inch slick as that is the same dia as the tire I have now. I was going to use some 15 x 8 steel rims I have in the shed and screw the slicks to the rim. Should I run tubes or not?
Hmmm...that's an interesting comment from Calvert regarding the stiff sidewall. He would know better tham me on that one....especially since the Clatracs were invented for a 4 speed car originally. :yesnod:
The quick time pros are a stiff wall dual purpose tire much like the MT et street bias plys. :scratchchin: Neither will be as stiff as a drag radial or radial slick though....
So he's recommending a semi-stiffwall if i'm reading this right ? The caltracs are adjustable (pre-load) so you can soften the hit with a violent 4 speed launch but the trick is getting it just right so it bites well and doesn't blow the tires off. :P
Tough choice there buddy....i suppose the 4 speed complicates things a bit. I haven't raced a 4 speed so it's a little out of the realm of my experience. :-\
I'd put a post up on the race section over at Moparts and see what the stick guys are having success with. Emphasize the heavy car weight and ask for slick suggestions and caltrac settings. You should pick up some good feedback i would think. :icon_smile_big:
As for tubes ; if you do run them make sure to screw the slicks onto the rim. On a smaller slick it's not really necessary to run tubes, inmo. :Twocents:
Ron
Quote from: daytonalo on March 23, 2008, 12:25:09 AM
Nice job ! I made and installed the same type ! Ripped them out and installed U.S car tool and they look factory and will far out strengthen because they weld to the floor and front and back .
Larry
how do the US tool ones fit ? Do you have stock floor pans or aftermarkit?
Fantastic fab job and install, love how they "step down" with the contour of the floorboards!
i would trade my girlfriend for my car to look like that :smilielol:
AceLondon, we're gonna need pics of the girlfriend before we can go any further. Looks awesome Doug, that is beautiful work!
Nice job! I had a tough time putting in my drive shaft safety loop!
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Wow...I didn't know this got stickyed....
Here is some follow on with the caltracs....some good info........I'm heading up to Island this weekend...hopefully get my 11 sec time slip.....I'll post back here with the results.. :D
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,61485.0.html
I'm getting ready to install a set on my 69 and I notice that the fuel line and the brake line holes in the torsion bar bracket end up being covered by the connectors. How are you guys handling that? Doing it that way and then reinstalling the lines seem difficult, need several splices. I've thougt about drilling new holes for the lines to get them from under the connectors.
Quote from: green69rt on September 28, 2009, 02:33:33 PM
I'm getting ready to install a set on my 69 and I notice that the fuel line and the brake line holes in the torsion bar bracket end up being covered by the connectors. How are you guys handling that? Doing it that way and then reinstalling the lines seem difficult, need several splices. I've thougt about drilling new holes for the lines to get them from under the connectors.
I will most likely drill holes in the connector and pass the lines through the side and through the original holes in the crossmember. It may require an additional connector or two but it will avoid having them exposed to the road passing underneath. With properly grommeted holes and clamped to the connectors they'll be very secure.
Quote from: elacruze on September 29, 2009, 09:00:56 PM
Quote from: green69rt on September 28, 2009, 02:33:33 PM
I'm getting ready to install a set on my 69 and I notice that the fuel line and the brake line holes in the torsion bar bracket end up being covered by the connectors. How are you guys handling that? Doing it that way and then reinstalling the lines seem difficult, need several splices. I've thougt about drilling new holes for the lines to get them from under the connectors.
I will most likely drill holes in the connector and pass the lines through the side and through the original holes in the crossmember. It may require an additional connector or two but it will avoid having them exposed to the road passing underneath. With properly grommeted holes and clamped to the connectors they'll be very secure.
Please post pictures when you get it done. I'm very interested!!!!
Please post pictures when you get it done. I'm very interested!!!!
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Would you guys say the US tool connectors fit better than the XV?
Looks stellar Doug...understand why you went the route you did so you could take em out. Btw I love that car !
solid looking job!!!!!!
WOW! GREAT JOB. I think it would be hard to weld between where the tie and the torsion bar mounts to.
I did something very similar with my Charger.
What I did differently was to open up the rear frame rails at the front, and insert the tubing into the frame rail a few inches, and did a lap weld on the sides of the rail, rather than a butt-weld which would have shear loading. I then did a plug-weld through a drain hole (pictured).
On the front of the connector, I inset it into the cross-member in a similar manner, and since my floorpan was out, I welded the tubing inside of the cross-member as well.
Overkill? maybe! :icon_smile_big:
Hemidoug, i didnt see anyone ask, how much did he charge for the frame ties alone? i might want a set exactly like yours from your guy they look amazing!
Doug, very nice job done there
is that a 4spd with and overdrive unit on your car?
Stephen
Nice job on the loop and connectors
Hey guys. You all can answer this question for me.
I was considering the Hotchkis subframe connectors. I understand these US & XV connectors are boss for track use. But, would the Hotchkis connectors suffice for a street only car? If they're garbage I'll go with 'The Full Monty'.
Also, I was looking at welding in the front bracket on the Hotchkis, but then bolting through the hole through the connector, in the front, so that they'd remain removable. Would this completely negate any stiffness added? Are they a must weld-in in the front to see any benefit?
Thanks, Christopher
Personally I would only go with the welded ones. :Twocents:
I would have to agree with Ghoste if you want the full benefit of the connectors.
OK, I admit that I was doubting the front bolts would suffice. . .
Do any of you think the Hotchkis would suffice for a street car? They bolt to the four bolts of the rear spring in the back, then they weld to a bracket that welds to the front cross support.
Are they worth the effort of the install?
Or are the fully boxed tall frame rails the only ones worth installing?
Thanks,
Christopher
I say the Hotchkis would be sufficient, but I would permanently weld them in. Just use the bolt holes of the spring hanger to hold them up while you weld them.
That's a good point about welding them in the back, too!
Now you've got me thinking that making side plates, on one, or both sides, and boxing them up to the pans as much as possible would severly increase their effectiveness. Heck, even just a couple plates along the gap would dramatically increase the rigidity they offer. ? . ?
Dang I am so far from there...hahaha looks awesome!
Hemidoug . Hi....any idea how much weight your ties have added to the car.....just curious about doing something similar.
Quote from: alfaitalia on December 15, 2016, 11:14:38 AM
Hemidoug . Hi....any idea how much weight your ties have added to the car.....just curious about doing something similar.
Hi, You might want to try a pm, maybe he'll see the email notification. He hasn't been active since 2010. He sold it, but the current owner is a member here. Have not seen many posts on it though. Great car!!
Serves me right for not looking at the posting dates! :icon_smile_big:
The weight of the metal that I used couldn't have been much more than 20lbs. I used .120 wall 3x3 for mine. I've seen .090 wall used and that is probably plenty enough.
...and the stock frame structure is built with .060, so you could go lighter, just tie things in and fully weld.
Those look really good my car is also silver . Just curious if I may ask what was the cost because that looks great completely painted and clean .
What do you mean by it feels like a different car ?
Thanks Pete
Quote from: Petebell68 on March 18, 2017, 11:17:37 AM
Those look really good my car is also silver . Just curious if I may ask what was the cost because that looks great completely painted and clean .
What do you mean by it feels like a different car ?
Thanks Pete
Well, the OP hasn't been around in forever and the car has since sold but this is what he meant:
Quote from: Hemidoug on March 23, 2008, 09:56:06 AM
It's a different car now. no more squeaks and rattles, car feels solid.
Troy
My car handled well before these and after them. I've read how they reduce chassis flex so I expected them to make a difference. What I did notice was that the car soaked up bumps and dips like a new car. It felt more solid and quiet with a nice reduction in rattles.
Which is interesting because you would think more flex would help ride quality.
Imagine sliding down a snowy hill sitting on a cheap plastic sled. A flexible bottom on the sled will feel bumpier than a stiff rigid bottom.
Body flex is inconsistent and uncontrollable unlike suspension compliance which is measured and regulated.
I followed Dougs plans to a T.
firefighter convinced me to weld as anyone worth their salt can remove them with no remnants. Plus Im back home and know of 3-4 awesome metal guys.
But what a difference those connectors proved to be. Night & day...