Break in oil or regular oil for storage

[Dino]

I know I've asked this before but I want to make sure I don't mess this up.

440 with a new cam, lifters, pushrods, timing chain kit, and head gasket. Same old pistons and cleaned up heads and valves. New valve seals.

The engine was done in April and I'm just about to squirt some Marvel mystery oil in the cylinders and bolt the new valve covers in place. The engine will likely not fire for many months to come and it could be as long as a year +.

What should I do when it comes to oil? Fill it up with conventional oil and replace it with break in oil before I fire it up or fill it with break in oil now? If the latter, which one? Joe Gibbs? What weight and does it need an additive or is it good to go? How many quarts does a 440 with a 187 pan take?

[Windsor]

When I picked up my motor, the builder recommended Joe Gibbs Driven Hot Rod oil since it will be sitting for 6+ months. Recommended that every 2 weeks I turn it over by hand while running the pump with a primer and drill.

[440]

How much damage is actually done on an engine sitting for a couple of years if you just change the oil, turn the engine over by hand a couple of times, crank it over on the starter for a minute, then fire it up?

[Dino]

Good question, I have no idea!

I guess it won't hurt to just fill it with break in oil now. What weight do you guys normally use for this?

[71 SE3834V]

My builder sent me home with 30wt Brad Penn break in but my engine wasn't going to sit so    I have a priming rod I shouldn't be needing for awhile if it's recommended to prime it.
BTW, I have an idea to rig up your exhaust I'll have to run by you so you can run that b.

[Dino]

I thought about Brad Penn as an option as well, I just stumbled upon the Gibbs oil and the great reviews it got. Either will be just fine no doubt.

Exhaust problem has been fixed! I have a set of used head pipes coming so I'll be able to mate them to what I have and maybe even add an H pipe!   

[71 SE3834V]

Awesome on the pipes!
I'm betting you got the valve covers done. I had taken some pics of different MP covers I saw at the cruise w/different locations of pcv, breather but ran out of town so haven't got em downloaded and with my current truck problems I don't know when that'll be.
Oh, and I was able to buy a case of Brad Penn locally for the same price as online.

[Dino]

Yep covers are on but some of the bolt heads are so close to the cover that I can't get them very tight. I'll replace them with ARP 12pt bolts with smaller heads. The manifolds are also on. I found a Ford grommet that fits into the oil cap hole and will be getting a breather that fits in the other. Since I didn't have to drill holes I painted the bare circles to match the rest.

I rerouted the transmission wiring over the trans today, I'll have the clip I need to secure it on Saturday. I won't have the pipes until  a week from now. I'll be back in school by then so I won't be able to install them for a while.

I'll be happy to just get some oil in the engine!

[Dino]

Looks like the pipes will be here Saturday so I'll be able to mess with them after all!   

[c00nhunterjoe]

If it is just going to sit then what difference does it make what brand oil lays in the pan. Even full synthetic  is onky good for a year so anything should be drained after sitting BEFORE you prime and spin it over.

[Dino]

That's exactly what I needed to know. I have a bunch of old quarts of Pennzoil 10W40 sitting here so I'll pour that in there.

[Windsor]

I think the reason for the recommended oil is the additives help prevent corrosion while sitting and reduces the amount of soft sludge that accumulates in recessed in the block. Even with new oil and not running the motor, it will have some moisture inside. Of course you could always seal it up really well and flush it with nitrogen.