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Non sanding primer?

Started by b5blue, July 24, 2011, 05:45:24 AM

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b5blue

Just what does that term mean?   :shruggy:  I'm looking for a "rust stopper" kind of primer for my car, suggestions?

tan top

non sanding primer , is for wet on wet applications  , mainly use for new panels  ,
all done in the booth  , spray non sand primer , then straight over with top coat , after leaving the desired flash of time  required  in the MDS


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bobfist

Rust stopper?
I would sandblast if you are able to do that, then epoxy prime as we do
But just to stop the rust, before a restoration or anything you can spray epoxy on it.

THis is what i epoxy primed today...my undercarriage

www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

b5blue


70 Charger RT

If you want to stop rust, try POR15.  I used it on the inside of my frame rails before welding on the trunk pan.  I've heard a lot of good comments on this stuff.

70 Charger R/T - 440/6
07 BMW 328iS
04 GMC SLE 2500 Diesel

b5blue

The rust is on body's exterior so from what I've read POR 15 and or Rust Bullet would be a bad choice. So far Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator is looking like my best option as it has some UV rating (I'm testing it on my Jeep's hood and cowl area now for the last 4 months.) and I won't be top coating for awhile. 

Silver R/T

You want to use epoxy primer. You want to sand/grind off any rust and make sure there's no rust, afterwards shoot epoxy over metal.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

Chatt69chgr

I'm no expert but I've read that after you grind/sand to bare metal that if there are any pits left in which rust could still reside that you treat with something like Rust Mort (I believe it's a SEM product) and then epoxy prime.  Also read that on the dupont DP50LF that you have 7 days open window during which you can recoat the epoxy primer without sanding.  After that, you need to sand to provide a "tooth".  I'd appreciate advice from the experts as to whether this is the correct procedure.

Forgot to mention that if the grinding or sanding operations leave a shiny smooth surface that you need to go back over with something like 60 grit to give the metal a "tooth" for the primer to stick to.


b5blue

  I've been "halting" the surface rust with "OSPHO" it turns the rust black. (And burns your skin!) I "had" the roof sand blasted, treated with OSPHO then epoxy primed but the shop got it too thin and some rust is coming back after a couple years outside under my carport. I've got to prep. one section at a time shoot it with something that has UV tolerance and move to the next section, then start getting into body repairs. I know I'll be re-sanding everything again and re shooting few times over a long period of time. I need something with "no window" for respray, a tight base (I know to sand between coats.) to build off of.

Domino

Quote from: bobfist on July 24, 2011, 04:10:04 PM
Rust stopper?
I would sandblast if you are able to do that, then epoxy prime as we do
But just to stop the rust, before a restoration or anything you can spray epoxy on it.

THis is what i epoxy primed today...my undercarriage



Is that a new two piece trunk floor without gas tank mounts?

bobfist

www.bobfist.com
Muscle Car Restorations & Reproduction
Sweden

Domino