News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Saving a trunk floor, Pro 15?

Started by cudaken, June 26, 2013, 08:07:12 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

cudaken

 I working on my 68 Road Runner and finally after 8 years I got the trunk open, pulled the custom made carpet and side panels and this is what I found.

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-06-25-5_zps3ed4c2be.jpg.html]

Lot of the stuff that looks like flaking rusted sheet metal is old undercoating I sprayed in the mid 80's.

I have not done any body work for 10 years so I have forgotten some of the name or products that are out there and any have came a long.

I think the stuff I read about was called Pro 15, is that a correct name? It was suppose to stop rust? :shruggy: Anyone here use it and what did you think of it?

I am not restoring my Road Runner, just trying to make a good street peeler. Here is my plan of attack.

1 Use my wire brush on my electric grinder.

2 Maybe use my hand held sand blaster on some spots that did not clean up well.

3 Patch this hole with sheet metal, and use Metal To Metal to shape it some what close to the correct shape.

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/Charger%20Site/1-06-25-2_zps267db11a.jpg.html]

4 Pro 15 the floor or something or product that stops rust.  :shruggy:

5 Either undercoat coat the floor or should I just epoxy primer / sealer the floor next then undercoat the floor?

6 Might paint the floor the factory color. Not a big on my list of to do.

Trunk sure felt solid when I was sitting in it last night! :2thumbs: Plus, lets just say I am not a small guy and leave it at that!  :smilielol:

Looking forward to some ideas.

Cuda Ken  
I am back

Silver R/T

Por15 is great product but unfortunately in your case it's too late, you can see holes all over trunk floor/extensions. I did use por15 in my trunk, it was rusty but it didnt have rust through.
http://www.cardomain.com/id/mitmaks

1968 silver/black/red striped R/T
My Charger is hybrid, it runs on gas and on tears of ricers
2001 Ram 2500 CTD
1993 Mazda MX-3 GS SE
1995 Ford Cobra SVT#2722

johnnycharger

after you do all the cleaning you suggested I would suggest using rust Dr not por 15 is ready to paint right over when you're done and I'm happy with results. To be fair. .. I have never used por 15 but I have used rust dr and I think it is great.

ipstrategies

I used a EZ Strip Wheel on my electric grinder it worked better then the wire wheel. I got mine at parts store or hf for around 5.00 each, it worked fast getting down to metal.
1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1999 Dodge Durango 5.9
1995 Chrysler LHS

Patronus

'73 Cuda 340 5spd RMS
'69 Charger 383 "Luci"
'08 CRF 450r
'12.5 450SX FE

cudaken


Silver R/T you might have missed that I said I was going to patch the holes. Depending on the cost I might buy a floor exertion for the right side.

One thing I do know, is I will make some new holes as I clean, this is not my first Redo you know! My 69 Charger broke in half from rust!

http://s83.photobucket.com/user/cudaken/media/1-rustedframe4_zpsaa36b1a4.jpg.html]

Johnny I am all so looking at Rust Doctor as well, will you share some pictures or information about it?

Russ, tell me a little about the EZ Strip Wheel. Is it a tool for cleaning gaskets off metal?

Thank You all for your time!  :2thumbs:

Cuda Ken
I am back

1974dodgecharger

use the por 15 puty stuff and then por 15 over....your holes are not that bad and saveable i say. oh use por 15 silver...

ipstrategies

Ken the ez strip wheel is what I have used to strip my trunk and other medium heavy rusted areas as it seemed to take the rust off to clean metal (same as wire wheel but faster and without the wire wheel gouges that I would make when trying to dig in to the heavier rust) I was able to get in the pits better with this tool then wire wheel also. I also like that fact that when the pieces of this fly off they are not metal slivers like the wire wheel.

1971 Dodge Charger SE 383 Magnum
1999 Dodge Durango 5.9
1995 Chrysler LHS

green69rt

Whatever you use, try spraying phosphoric acid or phosphoric acid/zinc phosphate solution before you coat the metal.  Spray it on, let it dry then wipe the excess off, then paint.  I've found by etching and making the metal surface acid these products stick like they're part of the metal.

I've used POR 15 and reading this forum found good stuff  and complaints (including from me) on just about all the coatings.  Etching first seems to cure a lot of the problems. :Twocents:

bill440rt

POR-15 isn't bad when used correctly. The key is it needs some sort of rough surface for it to "bite" into. That's why they say it's good over rust. If the metal is clean but roughed up, such as from sandblasting, it will also adhere.
Sandblasting would be the best method here, but if your car is together than that's out. Like others have said the strip wheel will work better than a wire wheel. Afterwards you may want to brush on some rust dissolver gel to really clean in the pits and stuff. Go over the metal with a sander afterward to rough it up, and spray on some metal prep solution after that. It may be clean enough after all that work to spray on some epoxy primer instead of POR-15.
If you do use POR-15 and then want to paint it, they make a self-etching primer that is designed as a mid-coat with no sanding before paint. Spray directly over POR-15, let it flash, then paint over that. I did the underside of my '69 that way, 6 years now and no signs of peeling or poor adhesion.
"Strive for perfection in everything. Take the best that exists and make it better. If it doesn't exist, create it. Accept nothing nearly right or good enough." Sir Henry Rolls Royce

maxwellwedge

I say - Cut out the floor and put a new one in.....should take only a few more hours over messing around with all the other stuff - which would still be a band-aid solution.

Then you would something nice to look at when you open the trunk.  :2thumbs:

cudaken

 Max, you buy and I will install it!  :2thumbs:

There are a few factors involved. Main thing beside lack of funds is I don't have the energy I uses to and don't have a body shop to work out of anymore.

Most of the body work will be done sitting outside, then I will call in favors for a booth to shoot her in.

Thanks again for all of the advices and I am open for more.

       Cuda Ken

 
I am back

resq302

I have to be honest, I've used POR-15 three times and all three times I had no luck.  It either rusted through the stuff I put on or peeled of on multiple attempts.  I even went as far as using the metal ready and marine clean that they sold me.  The headquarters is located in Whippany, NJ right down the road from where I work and even brought the part into them and showed them the results.  I did everything from painting over the rust down to sand blasting.  Nothing worked for me.  I've since found other means to convert rust over.
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

green69rt

Just a thought about replacing the floor.  If you pull up the floor you also need to think about the trunk lock brace and the bumper reinforcements, also the spare tire bumpers and the hold downs, the gas tank penetrations.  If all you want to replace is the passenger side extension, I think that is pretty easy, others need to chime in...  The floor or the driver side extension require more work....

green69rt

I'm going to stick my neck out and tell you how I would handle your problems.  Flood the floor with phosphoric acid till the rust is mostly gone.  This may take a while and some patience.  Replace the passenger side extension.  Then use your stripper wheel to get the metal to as good as you can get it.  Spray the phosphate coating again and wipe or sand down to get rid of the excess powder residue.  Use POR15 or some other coating.  Prime with some kind of etching primer.  Coat with a single stage body color top coat.  I would bet this will last 20 years...

1974dodgecharger

what are your other methosa? i por 15 the bottom and top part of my trunk area and side rear quarters. 



Quote from: resq302 on June 28, 2013, 09:36:55 PM
I have to be honest, I've used POR-15 three times and all three times I had no luck.  It either rusted through the stuff I put on or peeled of on multiple attempts.  I even went as far as using the metal ready and marine clean that they sold me.  The headquarters is located in Whippany, NJ right down the road from where I work and even brought the part into them and showed them the results.  I did everything from painting over the rust down to sand blasting.  Nothing worked for me.  I've since found other means to convert rust over.

hemihead

I know some swear by POR15 . I have a friend who used this and a year later the only thing left was the POR15 . No metal , just the POR shaped like metal .
Seems the POR sealed in the little rust left that he missed cleaning off and it continued to eat it .
Lots of people talkin' , few of them know
Soul of a woman was created below
  Led Zeppelin

johnnycharger

As requested


cudaken

 
Thanks John! I have done some reading about the stuff and will look into it some more. Do you have any before and after pictures?

Cuda Ken
I am back