Liquid or Gel Rust Removers: Share your Experiences

[bill440rt]

OK, need some input here, advice/experiences are greatly appreciated.
I'm getting ready to restore a set of road wheels. They need a cosmetic resto only, no replating necessary. The front of the wheels I can just lightly sand & repaint. The backsides have some very minor surface rust on them that is coming thru the original flash plating. I do not want to blast the wheels which will destroy any plating.
So, I'm looking into using a liquid or gel rust remover for the backsides. I'm thinking afterward I can then scrub the backsides up with steel wool and use either a clear coat or RPM treatment or something. I do not want damage the chrome spokes on the front or dissolve any remaining plating on the back, just dissolve the rust.
I would think a gel-type dissolver would be my best bet. I couldn't find an Evapo-Rust gel, but I see Eastwood offers one. With a liquid, I'd have to soak the wheel which I am afraid might damage the spokes.
Anyone know of a good one that won't harm chrome? 
Attached is a pic of one of the wheels, the others are in the same shape.

[BIGBLCK11]

Naval Jelly will work on the rust, BUT it is NOT recommended to be on chrome.  I am not sure other gels would be any better and still do the job.  That being said, I was able to apply it multiple times to the inside of a 70 front bumper, just making sure to not let it run out of the bolt holes.  It did do the trick and is very inexpensive.  I got it on the chrome once and it tried to leave what looked liked a water stain.  I was able to clean it off, but I didn't test it on any other chrome for a longer period of time.  I know you are looking for a solution the will not hurt the chrome at all, but I thought my experience with a similar product might help or even steer you away from it to be safe.   

[bull]

I'm going to challenge your logic. If it were me I'd use impact stripping tape to cover the chrome you want to save on the front and media blast the rest. You'd be finished in a fraction of the time and I bet they'd look way better than the stripping and sanding method. Blasting won't destroy chrome if you know what you're doing. In fact you'd have to hit it very hard with sand to attack it to the point of stripping it off, and the chrome is so thin on the backs of these wheels it's all but nonexistant. It wouldn't take much pressure at all to eliminate the rust on the back side and then you could prime/paint to protect it. There are some good silver paints that would match that dull/thin chrome exactly.

[bill440rt]

I may consider blasting the wheel hoop, masking off the center portion. But the rust on the hoop is VERY light, a strip wheel would be very quick work out of it.
I did consider bead blasting the backs, but would like to try a less abrasive method first.
Just looking for input if anyone knows it's affects on chrome.

[areibel]

Not naval Jelly, for sure!  If it doesn't take the chrome off it will discolor it, personal experience!
If you want to use a liquid, how about Evaporust with sawdust (or something else inert) as a binder? 
Or maybe a different method of blasting, like soda blasting or bead blasting?  I have small bead blast cabinet, you can take the paint off of a model locomotive and not damage the plastic with a little practice?  Too bad the cabinet isn't big enough to get a wheel in, I'd experiment with it.

[ODZKing]

Well, my   Bill.
I found Evaporust works ONLY if you have enough to dip the entire thing in.  Even then if you don't do somethng with it almost immediately, it rusts or changes color.  Enough Evaporust to do this would cost a fortune.
I have used Naval Jelly with great results however as mentioned it does discolor the metal.  And while I have never tried it on chrome, if you are painting it it wouldn't matter.  However if these are 500 road wheels they are brushed chrome anyway.  Scotch brite, light 400 or finer sand paper will work on the brushed.
If you have access to sand blasting, that is what I would do.  Quickest way and again if you hit the chrome a bit, sand it lightly to bring it back.

[bull]

I may consider blasting the wheel hoop, masking off the center portion. But the rust on the hoop is VERY light, a strip wheel would be very quick work out of it.

The reason I say blast it is due to how smooth the painted surfaces will come out when you do. It would take hours to sand it by hand and get it anywhere near that level of perfection. Plus you can use a very mild abrasive media like walnut shells, baking powder or glass that will only attack the rust. Rust is the easiest thing to take off metal with media.

[Daytona R/T SE]

OK, need some input here, advice/experiences are greatly appreciated.

The backsides have some very minor surface rust on them that is coming thru the original flash plating. I do not want to blast the wheels which will destroy any plating.

I'd start off with some warm water and an SOS pad.

[bill440rt]

OK, so I've been reading up online about other rust removers. Found a lot of stuff on oxalic acid. It's non-corrosive on chrome and paint, but will dissolve the rust.
Anyone use oxalic acid before?? 

[b5blue]

  Bill I'm with Bull here.
I tried everything from OSPHO (Very strong.) to Citric Acid (Yes "Food Grade" vitamin "C", very weak.) on chromed parts and always what happened is the rust is undercutting the chrome at least slightly and that is the issue. It will leave at least a slight "peel" of chrome flake that is razor sharp. In some cases it seemed to attack the nickel bond. (It ruined a few rusty tools by leaving really sharp edges of chrome that would cut your hands if used.  )
While Citric Acid did not discolor chrome it still did lift it and it seemed to undercut that bond layer. Mask/Blast and manual cleaning of chromed areas is what I would do then seal everything. 

[Lord Warlock]

I've used gel type strippers for paint removal, and to tell the truth haven't been happy with the results, even after trying several different brands, the spray can aircraft stripper seems to work better the gel type in a gallon can,  as for how it works with rust, I can't say.  I did read/watch a test of removing light rust from bumpers using coke (the drink) and it worked pretty well,  may have to try that myself some time. 

I'd have to agree that a blaster would work better, using soda or walnut shells, it shouldn't hurt the chrome.  I've got a set of 14" magnum 500s myself to try this project out with some day, even though I have a small soda blaster I could use if I can get it to work  again (moisture got inside the tank) 

[hemi-hampton]

I was just about to recommend Oxalic Acid. I've used it thousands of times. Mosty on my old rusty Beer Can I collect though. Wont hurt paint or plating. Heres a pic of a half soaked can below. LEON.

[bill440rt]

And what's it's affect on chrome, Leon?

I actually ran across a long thread on a BMX forum, many people there were using it to restore old chrome BMX bike frames with great results. No peeling, discoloration, etc. It's didn't even have an affect on the decals. Seems like a good alternative.
Citric acid and ospho work different chemically than oxalic acid from my readings. Another alternative that was out there was molasses (really!), but I'd have to buy A LOT of molasses to soak a wheel! 
I always like to try the least abrasive method first. From my understanding soda or walnut blasting will NOT remove rust, but it will remove paint, fillers, etc.
Glass bead WILL have an affect on chrome, I've done it numerous times. Glass beading will be my last resort, it is the most abrasive and will absolutely require refinishing the backside of the wheels in some sort of chrome "looking" paint.
I have a few spare road wheels lying around, I can always try one as a test mule & see what happens. If it doesn't come out as hoped, then I can blast. 

[Daytona R/T SE]

You guys are overthinking this way too much.

Like I said before,

"I'd start off with some warm water and an SOS pad". 

Just try it.  

[hemi-hampton]

I'd guess nothing will happen to chrome but never tried it. When it comes to car parts I always just media blast them. BUT, I've been using it on cans since the mid 1970's. If you want I can send you a pound of Acid with those Newspaper articles I was going to send you. Let me know? LEON.

[bill440rt]

You guys are overthinking this way too much.

Like I said before,

"I'd start off with some warm water and an SOS pad". 

Just try it.  

Yep, definitely on my experiment list.
I was going to try that first (steel wool would be OK on the backsides of these).
No luck, then oxalic acid.
Then, blast & paint.

I'd guess nothing will happen to chrome but never tried it. When it comes to car parts I always just media blast them. BUT, I've been using it on cans since the mid 1970's. If you want I can send you a pound of Acid with those Newspaper articles I was going to send you. Let me know? LEON.

Thank for the generous offer, Leon. I was just gonna pick some up local here at the Home Depot or Ace.
Send over those articles!!! 

[hemi-hampton]

At home Depot or ACE ect, they may call it Wood Bleach or Barekeepers Friend. Pharmacies may sell it as Oxalic Acid. LEON.

[PlainfieldCharger]

You guys are overthinking this way too much.

Like I said before,

"I'd start off with some warm water and an SOS pad". 

Just try it.  

Used this method for my Keystone's back in the day. My pops showed me this one. Made them keepers. make sure you use the sos pads. Something about that the soap.

[bill440rt]

Haven't been able to get to the wheels yet, although I did look for oxalic acid at my local Home Depot. They don't have it.
Gonna try a better hardware store next.
Also gonna give the SOS a whirl first.

[bobfist]

We have big baths of phosphoric acid 15-20% in water , removes rust in an hour or two

[hemi-hampton]

Any updates Bill?

[bill440rt]

Not yet, Leon. 
Other projects have delayed the wheel restoration.
I found some oxalic acid at the local hardware store, also bought some waterproof tape to protect the spokes just in case.
I may put these off until the spring, my garage isn't heated and I think the acid solution will work better when it's warmer out.
Gonna try the SOS pad thing first.
I'll keep ya posted. 

[hemi-hampton]

The Acid definately works better the hotter the water is. Works faster but will fade red colors if to hot. LEON

[Hard Charger]

evapo rust would cost about $180 to dunk a rim in (10gal). would handle this job easy. after the job it can be rebottled and reused for some time.

but it works best at 65> degrees.

[Dino]

SOS pad + barkeepers friend.  Give it a shot.

[bill440rt]

SOS pad + barkeepers friend.  Give it a shot.

Dino FYI... the primary ingredient in Barkeepers Friend is... oxalic acid. 

From what I've read about Evaporust is that it may discolor the chrome.

[Dino]

SOS pad + barkeepers friend.  Give it a shot.

Dino FYI... the primary ingredient in Barkeepers Friend is... oxalic acid. 

From what I've read about Evaporust is that it may discolor the chrome.

I know, that's why it works.   

It is also a non scouring powder so the sos pad is the worst part of it, and that is not too bad.   

[bill440rt]

Good to know! 

[hemi-hampton]

ZUD also has Oxalic Acid in it. LEON.

[roger440]

Ive found oxalic acid removes every kind of plating, like zinc, galanising etc. Cant say ive tried it on chrome, but i wouldn't be surprised if it took that off to.