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Author Topic: how to do a window plug ( daytona/500 window )  (Read 2653 times)
Stormhammer
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« on: September 02, 2005, 10:23:33 AM »

just out of curiousity - like I read about using a Vega hatch glass - but overall just how hard is it on a scale of 1-10? 10 being hardest - I think it'd be interesting or cool to see a normal charge with that sort of back
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BigBlockSam
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« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2005, 11:36:22 AM »

 popcrn
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I won't be wronged, I wont be Insulted and I wont be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to others, and I require the same from them.

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hotrod98
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« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2005, 12:59:09 PM »

A definite 12.
I say don't do it unless you're builidng a daytona clone. You have to alter the trunk opening, the deck lid and the deck lid hinges. You're looking at at least 50 hours of work or more depending on your level of expertise. You will also need a different headliner and a different package tray. I'm dreading that part of my Daytona transformation.
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Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams
dayclona
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« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2005, 08:14:47 PM »

A definite 12.
I say don't do it unless you're builidng a daytona clone. You have to alter the trunk opening, the deck lid and the deck lid hinges. You're looking at at least 50 hours of work or more depending on your level of expertise. You will also need a different headliner and a different package tray. I'm dreading that part of my Daytona transformation.


Hotrod98 is correct in his estimation, this is for installing a clean original/nos steel plug or one of my steel repro plugs, if doing the "vega deal" add another 40+ hours as you'll have to be creative to modify/install the vega plug, plus modify your trunk, and engineer your trunk hinges; then later fabbing them, plus alot of body work down the road! Dayclona sells {I'm not promoting here, just stating facts} the plug with correct underside bracing, modifies the trunk lid you supply, supplies correct trunk hinges with all hardware, rear glass, trim is available.......the last plug set up that I sold , the customer thought it was going to be a major undertaking! he called to tell me after getting past all the welding it was easier than nose assy. and he breezed through that! but having some notes and pics from Dayclona probally eased the install some!.....I did the vega/pontiac hatches "thing" back in the mid 80's only because I did'nt want to invest the time into tooling for a real plug, but after doing the work necsasary to install/finish a vega/pontiac plug(s), it became aparent that tooling up for the daytona plug was the only way to go!, installing an original/Dayclona plug involves removing the trunk, hinges, cutting approx. 6 " out of each side of the side drip rail on the trunk lip, removing the rear window/trim , inside/out, locating the plug in position, and welding( I include detailed instructions with my plug, too lengthly to detail here!) one tip though! it's best to fit the trunk/hinges first to establish a reference for locating the plugs for a proper gap at the plug/trunk line, this way your window is not too hi/low, or your trunk lid too short/long if you install the plug first! a mistake we all make only once! creative industries when building the original daytonas made this mistake too many times before following the above practice mentioned! I've been fabricating Mopar parts for 25+ years now, and I've made a few mistakes the hard way doing it myself! so if you can inlist the aid of friends, do so!...........and one word on fiberglass plugs, DON'T.......fiberglass plugs are only good if: you don't ever move the car out of the garage! or your car will always be in primer, this way you can do the bodywork over and over and over.......every year! and not worry about blending the paint! .......or your buiding a ratty joe dirt'e special, then you don't care about nuth'in!  fiberglass just does not work! I don't care what anybody sayz!....but I'm sure to hear about that!but I can't hear you!



     mike/DAYCLONA ENTERPRISES
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hotrod98
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« Reply #4 on: September 02, 2005, 10:57:41 PM »

Mike,
I spoke with you guys about altering my trunk lid for me earlier this year and I plan to send it to you in a few months.
I was looking at a 69 500 at a car show a few weeks ago and studied the construction of the trunk lid for the first time. I consider myself to be an excellent body man, but that little procedure would require much practice and four or five donor trunk lids. I know when to just hand something like that over to someone who has already got the procedure down. I noticed that the original finisher is made of steel. Do you have any plans to make one from steel in the future?
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Normal is an illusion. What is normal for the spider is chaos for the fly.
Charles Addams
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« Reply #5 on: September 03, 2005, 06:49:14 AM »

No, the fiberglass piece works fine.  It's not as structural as you'd think.  It basically dresses the end and give some stability to the skin.  Remember that the skin is folded 90 deg.; that gives plenty of stiffness to that end of the lid.  G.
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