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Author Topic: Serious Stalling Issue on RT  (Read 13555 times)
Bello
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« on: January 07, 2014, 04:55:26 PM »

2006 RT 5.7 only Mod is K&N Intake

over the past 4 weeks I have been trying to resolve this issue (extremely rough idle and stall) with endless research. Here is what I've done so far

replaced PCM
replaced camshaft position sensor
replaced crankshaft position sensor
Replaced MAP sensor
Checked IAT
conducted a block test to detect faulty headgaskets (passed)
checked all fuses and relays

now the stalling is back again. I also have codes for o2 sensors and got a recent code of P1128 and P1129 and now getting P0300 (but I know where the o2 codes came from. it came after the stalling when I ill-advised jumped the asd relay. I did the jump with the old pcm. It didnt work and I got codes so I put the asd back in and then a couple days later installed a new pcm.) Now im getting P0300. I recently had the valve cover gaskets replaced and new spark plugs. On start up a cloud of what appears to be smoke rises from exhaust. It stinks pretty bad. If I rev the engine it will struggle to stay on but once it warms up I can drive and it will stay on but sometimes it does stall. I dont have the money to keep troubleshooting I wish somebody knew a sure fix. The stealership knows nothing. Please help.

I have uploaded a video on youtube at about 1:23 you can see for yourself the stalling issue im having.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY8--q8aGSw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kY8--q8aGSw
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2Luke2
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« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2014, 06:42:04 PM »

Well you need fuel, air, and spark. So you have pretty much replaced everything air related and some engine management/timing. I would check spark and fuel flow.
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Bello
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« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2014, 06:46:57 PM »

Well you need fuel, air, and spark. So you have pretty much replaced everything air related and some engine management/timing. I would check spark and fuel flow.

thanks alot. What would you suggest I try first. I already checked the fuel pump and its fuses
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2Luke2
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« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2014, 07:02:28 PM »

You should try to get a hold of a fuel pressure tester and make sure you are getting fuel and it's not cutting out. It could be something as simple as a clogged fuel filter.

As for spark, I personally have never checked for spark with a coil pack. You need to remove the plastic covers, and then undo one of the coil packs with the two screws on the top of the coil pack. If I remember right there is one coil pack per cylinder and two spark plugs. You also need to remove the electrical connector that is hooked to it. At the very least you could look for any signs of damage/wear by pulling them out. Just be careful and unplug your battery before you start just to be on the safe side.

This is what you are looking for when you take the covers off.


This is what it will look like when you pop it off the spark plugs.


One of these might be able to help you identify the problem easier if it's a coil pack/spark plug problem.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gwd9VoTDHgI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1zhgsnyZWw
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tan top
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69 R/T SE -A47-Y2-CRX-V1T-V88


« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2014, 07:07:34 PM »

  has it been running ok since the K & N intake was fitted ?
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Bello
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« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2014, 07:10:25 PM »

  has it been running ok since the K & N intake was fitted ?


yes it was running fine, no problems at all. Now on start up it idles hard and stalls but if I rev it until it warms up it drives ok but I can still tell its not full power
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Bello
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« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2014, 07:11:03 PM »

Hey 2Luke2 great pics. I am familiar with the coil packs etc. I did a spark plug change a few months ago thats how I noticed oil on the plugs and had the vavle cover gasket replaced. I am going to try that tmw once I get ahold of a fuel pressure tester. Question, far as checking the fuel lines where do I plug in the fuel pressure tester. Is it that black cap on a silver/gray line next to the (driverside) manifold?
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tan top
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69 R/T SE -A47-Y2-CRX-V1T-V88


« Reply #7 on: January 07, 2014, 07:16:45 PM »

 not familiar with a k& N intake  set up over stock ,  but is the air tempreture sensor still in the In comming air stream to the throttle body ? or close to the new filter  or what ever the set up is ?
 also check pcv  pipe
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Bello
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« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2014, 07:23:55 PM »

not familiar with a k& N intake  set up over stock ,  but is the air tempreture sensor still in the In comming air stream to the throttle body ? or close to the new filter  or what ever the set up is ?
 also check pcv  pipe

I checked the pcv it was good the IAT is in the In coming air stream. I check that too. I am starting to think its the O2 sensors. All four have failed from my dumb a## doing an ASD relay jump (listening to someone else in another forum). That caused my o2 sensors to fail. I got a new PCM so now as a last ditch effort I am going to changed the sensors. This is what I found it describes some of my symptoms too: Oh and another reason why I think its the O2/emissions is the CEL blinks at times

"it is far easier to spot a failing sensor by paying attention to the engine's condition. The faulty sensor can send inaccurate readings to the computer that disrupt the engine timing and combustion intervals as well as unbalance the fuel-to-air ratio. This may cause the motor to idle roughly.  The engine might also miss while idling or operating at parking lot speeds. When the timing is thrown off, the sensor may cause engine pinging. Pinging, or engine knock, is a metallic sound that occurs in the engine when the combustion process is disrupted and thrown out of its proper cycle. Typically, pinging occurs when the fuel mixture in the combustion chamber is ignited at the wrong time." - See more at: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/app/newsfeed/detail?article=800732802#sthash.TNDgn5jo.dpuf
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2Luke2
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2014, 07:49:43 PM »

Yea, I could definitely see an o2 sensor making the car idle rough and stalling. You can check test the O2 sensors pretty easily.

This isn't the same car obviously, but he goes into a bit of troubleshooting that should help you check out the sensor before you just replace it.
http://youtu.be/mzRjqht_U3Q?t=3m42s
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Cooter
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2014, 07:50:12 PM »

Blinking CEL will kill cat. Converters. Possibly running lean.
Are you running a K&N AIR FILTER?
If so, might try spraying MASS AIR FLOW sensor cleaner on mass air flow sensor as that oil contaminates sensor...
Also, without looking at DATA on scanner, its hard to tell what tge STFT are doing.
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Bello
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2014, 07:53:47 PM »

Blinking CEL will kill cat. Converters. Possibly running lean.
Are you running a K&N AIR FILTER?
If so, might try spraying MASS AIR FLOW sensor cleaner on mass air flow sensor as that oil contaminates sensor...
Also, without looking at DATA on scanner, its hard to tell what tge STFT are doing.

I dont think I have a MAF I have a New MAP and IAT. Im ordering the o2 sensors now so I can see if that fixes it
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Cooter
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« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2014, 07:58:01 PM »

So its a speed density motor? Damn....don't ever put a big ol cam in it then.
Also check IAC  motor. HUGE problem on mopars.
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Bello
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« Reply #13 on: January 07, 2014, 08:19:46 PM »

im going to check or have checked almost every thing except the price of tea in China lol I mean man this is a huge headache. Luckily i have a 3.5 that has never given me these types of problems. So tmw I'll change all 4 o2 sensors and see where that leads me
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Bello
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« Reply #14 on: January 09, 2014, 07:08:38 PM »

UPDATE UPDATE UPDATE

ok I narrowed the problem down to the EGR and Cat. The car only stalls out on start up then runs fine after that. It ran for 2 hours yesterday no stall. So atleast that is the good news. Bad news: I changed all 4 02 sensors, erased the codes but they came back, (all 4). I went to autozone and used their code reader and got a bunch of other codes 2 of which was cat and EGR. The way the car runs and smell on start up im almost 100% sure its the cat and the EGR
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fy469rtse
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« Reply #15 on: January 10, 2014, 08:16:06 PM »

When's the last time you washed that KN filter out and re-oiled it, seen lots of guys do that because its re-usable it gets ignored, check the filters not clogged, that could be connected to the O2 sensors
also do you have radio code ,
Some of these modern computers just need to be reset, disconnect battery, re connect and computer starts from factory settings
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Bello
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« Reply #16 on: January 10, 2014, 08:21:02 PM »

When's the last time you washed that KN filter out and re-oiled it, seen lots of guys do that because its re-usable it gets ignored, check the filters not clogged, that could be connected to the O2 sensors
also do you have radio code ,
Some of these modern computers just need to be reset, disconnect battery, re connect and computer starts from factory settings

I have reset a million times using code reader and disconnecting the battery and pulling fuse 11,14,16. Codes remain. I cleaned  and oiled the K&N about two months ago. The problem is the Cats are bad, evap bad and im going to change the fuel pump/filter. I can tell by the loss of power when accelerating, the smell and how it runs on start up. It only stalls on initial start up. I can hear the cats, sounds like they clogged. Today it stalled 5 minutes after I started it and then ran for almost 2 hours without stalling. I changed the EGR so that's not it. The Evap canister is bad too, all caused by jumping the ASD relay. That jump damaged the 02's and in turn damaged the cats and whooop the sputtering and stalling…go figure. Now i have to spend $800 to fix the cats.
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Cooter
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« Reply #17 on: January 11, 2014, 05:45:11 AM »

Just swapping parts will eventually fix car I guess.
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Bello
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« Reply #18 on: January 12, 2014, 05:40:35 PM »

Just swapping parts will eventually fux car I guess.

it was a process of elimination. im glad i did now I know exactly what the problem is
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Cooter
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« Reply #19 on: January 12, 2014, 06:22:29 PM »

Just swapping parts will eventually fux car I guess.

it was a process of elimination. im glad i did now I know exactly what the problem is
I'm afraid bad cats (clogged/inefficient) won't cause your intermittent stalling upon start up, but goid luck anyway.
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Bello
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« Reply #20 on: January 12, 2014, 06:30:14 PM »

Just swapping parts will eventually fux car I guess.

it was a process of elimination. im glad i did now I know exactly what the problem is
I'm afraid bad cats (clogged/inefficient) won't cause your intermittent stalling upon start up, but goid luck anyway.

I beg to differ A totally clogged converter causes the engine to quit after a few minutes because of all the increased exhaust back pressure and that is exactly what its doing
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Cooter
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« Reply #21 on: January 12, 2014, 06:39:06 PM »

Wow........ok...you obviously know more than I.....good luck again....




Pssst....Ghoste, you see what I mean now?
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Bello
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« Reply #22 on: January 12, 2014, 06:44:45 PM »

Wow........ok...you obviously know more than I.....good luck again....




Pssst....Ghoste, you see what I mean now?

who cares what you know. I know what the problem is and honestly i dont need your input.
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Cooter
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« Reply #23 on: January 12, 2014, 06:49:57 PM »

Well, then....... smilielol
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Bello
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« Reply #24 on: January 12, 2014, 06:54:30 PM »

Well, then....... smilielol

since u know so much why im getting a cat code, new o2 sensors and still gettin a o2 code? when i took the cats off they rattled with broken pieces inside etc…..if according to you its not the cats stalling the car why are there so many professionals who say otherwise?
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