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Easy to Start a Charger without the Key?: Fear of Getting Charger Stolen

Started by Crazy Larry, March 08, 2006, 08:08:46 AM

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Crazy Larry

On another thread in the performance section, a member said his starter relay went and he bypassed it with a screwdriver to start it up.

Does this mean that all one has to do is use a piece of metal to bypass the relay, and connect the voltage to the starter terminal and badda-bing - your Charger fires up?

Now, I know that the Starter relay is right there, open to the world, mounted on the fire wall behind the driver's side valve cover. And I also know, that the Charger (at least in 1968) is a simple pull on the lever to open the hood.

This had me thinking - how safe is the Charger, when I turn it in for the night. Not having access to a Garage, I was trying to brainstorm on how best to keep it safe and sound. Besides lots of prayers - does anyone have any little anti-theft things they do to their Charger before leaving it out for the night?

In a world where these cars are soaring in value everyday (imagine what it will be like in 15 years) it is never to soon to think anti-theft.

How easy is it to start a Charger without a key and drive away - and is there something to do to make it more difficult (ie, keeping the ignition coil cable alongside your keys whenever you park the Charger)?

As always, this board's wisdom is very appreciated....

Crazy Larry

Well, in searching around the net, I found this out.....

http://www.americanautowire.com/products/Relay_Kits_and_Fan_Switches.cfm

UNIVERSAL RELAY KIT

• Anti-Theft Relay Kit:
Using this relay module you can disable the starter cranking circuit until an initial task associated with an existing switch is performed. A headlight switch, brake switch, or any hidden switch are just a few examples of the possible switches that are used to activate the override relay. Attempts to start the vehicle without performing the initial task can cause a horn or other item to be activated.


It looks like this can be modified to make an extra step that only you would know how to start your car up. It says "universal" with different terminal applications - so theoretically I should be able to modify this for the Mopar Starter Relay (that is listed right under it).

Maybe this thread belongs in Wiring and Electrical....oops again.... :icon_smile_blackeye:

BLACKWOLF

PUT IN A BATTERY CUTOFF SWITCH IN A HIDDEN AREA. MY FIRST CHARGER I MOUNTED ONE IN THE FLOOR BOARD IN FRONT OF MY DRIVER'S SEAT. WHEN YOU PARK IT, JUST REACH DOWN AND FLIP IT OFF. IT KILLS ALL OF THE JUICE FROM THE BATTERY.
I ONLY NEEDED KEYS TO UNLOCK THE STEERING WHEEL. I PUT A PUSH BUTTON AND A TOGGLE SWITCH INSIDE OF THE ASH TRAY WHERE THE CIGARETTE LIGHTER WAS. I MADE ALOT OF LUNCH MONEY FROM BETTING PEOPLE THAT THEY COULDN'T START MY CAR.
LINNY SMITH 73' CHARGER OWNER HPAC MEMBER NATIONAL STREET MACHINE CLUB LIFE MEMBER
I'M ON FACEBOOK

BLACKWOLF

LINNY SMITH 73' CHARGER OWNER HPAC MEMBER NATIONAL STREET MACHINE CLUB LIFE MEMBER
I'M ON FACEBOOK

plum500

I'm putting my battery in the trunk, and have a manual disconnect at the post -- just unscrew the green shutoff and take it with you.

Though I suppose anything can be stolen if someone wants it, but that will be enough inconvenience/deterance for my application....

bull


Johnny SixPack

Quote from: plum500 on March 08, 2006, 09:50:02 AM
I'm putting my battery in the trunk, and have a manual disconnect at the post -- just unscrew the green shutoff and take it with you.

Though I suppose anything can be stolen if someone wants it, but that will be enough inconvenience/deterance for my application....

Exactly what I did.

Much nicer than snagging the coil-distributor wire. :D
Johnny's Herd:
'69 Charger SE, '70 Charger R/T SE 496 Six Pack, '72 Chrysler Imperial LeBaron, '74 International Scout II, '85 Ford F-250 Diesel, '97 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series

"If everyone is thinking alike, then someone isn't thinking." - Gen. George S. Patton Jr.

"If its got tits or tires, you're going to have trouble with it." - Unknown

Got Dodge Fever? There's only one cure.....Charger!

Crazy Larry

Those are all godd suggestions, I love the switch in the cigarette lighter - that rocks. :thumbs:

You guys are right about if a few guys with enough know-how want the car, they'll get the car - but what I want to deter is the petty guys who would be incovenienced by the Charger not starting up right away. I doubt, he'd break out his volt meter and start checking for continuity in the wiring system.

However, you don't want to be on a date and say "wait honey, I have to put this boot on the Charger before we go in to the movie" - that won't get you very far.  :o

Crazy Larry

Quote from: formula_440 on March 08, 2006, 01:29:05 PM

Much nicer than snagging the coil-distributor wire. :D

But the little "pop" sound it makes when you pull it off the distributor is cool  :P

chrisII

its pretty simple to hot wire any pre colum lock mopar. not sure what year the colum locks started, but i am thinking my 69 coronet had the dash mounted switch, i may be wrong on this..either way a simple piece of wire with 2 alagator clips, one to the pos post of the batt, the second to the balast resistor (+ side of the coil will work for a while). now stick a screwdriver between the big post and small post on the starter to crank it over (or jump the firewall relay) and VROOOM it starts right up. supplying power direct to the ballast will work on mopar elec ign or points systems.

     now before anyone starts thinkin im a car thief , im not but i have had to use this trick to get a couple parts cars running. these ignition systems arent rocket science, why do you think they invented the colum lock.

Crazy Larry

Quote from: chrisII on March 08, 2006, 08:30:26 PM
its pretty simple to hot wire any pre colum lock mopar. not sure what year the colum locks started, but i am thinking my 69 coronet had the dash mounted switch, i may be wrong on this..either way a simple piece of wire with 2 alagator clips, one to the pos post of the batt, the second to the balast resistor (+ side of the coil will work for a while). now stick a screwdriver between the big post and small post on the starter to crank it over (or jump the firewall relay) and VROOOM it starts right up. supplying power direct to the ballast will work on mopar elec ign or points systems.

     now before anyone starts thinkin im a car thief , im not but i have had to use this trick to get a couple parts cars running. these ignition systems arent rocket science, why do you think they invented the colum lock.

Which is why I am starting to gravitate towards the electrical system kill switch - the only hang-up on that idea would be if I wanted to install a modern radio/CD player, the digital clock would reset every time the anti-theft device is activated.

small price for safety though

plum500

Anyway you could have a low powered nicad or lithium 12vs to keep the clock alive when not in use -- use a 2 way switch so when you are in kill mode, have them on the clock -- when live, have them recharge...

Crazy Larry

Quote from: plum500 on March 08, 2006, 11:14:00 PM
Anyway you could have a low powered nicad or lithium 12vs to keep the clock alive when not in use -- use a 2 way switch so when you are in kill mode, have them on the clock -- when live, have them recharge...

Wow - great idea. I'd have to sort out a wiring diagram but that sounds like a good plan.


hemihead

Even with the advent of the column lock in 70 it doesn't stop anyone.If someone really wants the car they are going to take it.Some products may slow thieves down but if the product is for sale on the market,theives already know about it and have it figured out already.Besides,they don't need the whole car anyway,the parts are worth enough by themselves.
Lots of people talkin' , few of them know
Soul of a woman was created below
  Led Zeppelin

Aero426

Quote from: hemihead on March 09, 2006, 06:03:58 AM
Even with the advent of the column lock in 70 it doesn't stop anyone.If someone really wants the car they are going to take it.Some products may slow thieves down but if the product is for sale on the market,theives already know about it and have it figured out already.Besides,they don't need the whole car anyway,the parts are worth enough by themselves.

Agreed.   I'd be more worried about the car being simply dragged off by a tow truck, or onto a flatbed.   Column lock or not, after watching those repo shows on TV, it happens awfully fast by someone who knows what they are doing.

psykicpup

hubby locked the keys in the car a few months ago & one of the guys reckoned he could gert in any car within 2 mins... 1hr later he was getting a bit stressed
my daughter & boyfriend 'Sunny Sunday'


DFPA and proud of it!

Wakko

Get a GPS system!!!  If you notice the car missing you can log on, find it and call the cops before they hack it up.
Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

Steve P.

Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

resq302

Quote from: Steve P. on March 10, 2006, 04:26:59 AM
Any method is better than no method...

LO-JACK*

The problem with Lo-Jack is that not every police department has it.  Lo-Jack requires a lot of labor installing the system into a police car which is the reason why most police departments do not get it even though it is free to police departments.  With the antennas being so sensitive for the system for police cars and the time that a department has a patrol car for, it is usually not worth it to the police departments to get a lo-jack system installed into a car.  My squad puts on a car, on average between 60-120 miles a shift, multiply that by 2 as we work 12 hour shifts.  The miles rack up pretty quickly.  We probably replace a patrol car once every two to three years due to the mileage and the abuse they get.  Lets face it.... most of the time they are idling, which is the worst thing a car can do.

As stated before, if a thief wants your car bad enough, regardless of alarm systems, clubs, wheel locks, ignition cut offs, etc, they will steal your car if they want it.  The only type of security system for a car which I have seen that works is one that has a machine gun pop up when the alarm is triggered, does a 360 firing off rounds, and then resets.  However, that probably will never be seen by the general public due to laywers being around.   :icon_smile_big: 
Brian
1969 Dodge Charger (factory 4 speed, H code 383 engine,  AACA Senior winner, 2008 Concours d'Elegance participant, 2009 Concours d'Elegance award winner)
1970 Challenger Convert. factory #'s matching red inter. w/ white body.  318 car built 9/28/69 (AACA Senior winner)
1969 Plymough GTX convertible - original sheet metal, #'s matching drivetrain, T3 Honey Bronze, 1 of 701 produced, 1 of 362 with 440 4 bbl - auto

Arthu®

Why not just make an switched electronic fuel pump? The car would start right up but also die right away. But you can't really do all that much besides the lo-jack system to prevent crooks from putting it on a trailer.

Arthur
Striving for world domination since 1986

Steve P.

Yup, the more you can do to prevent THE THEFT of your car the better. The LO-JACK may just help get it back... 

Running it out of gas is a good idea for the every day wanna be. He, (or she), will get down the street with it but as soon as he, (or she), hits that nervous peddle the car will nose over and leave them dry..

You know everyone notices your car out in traffic!!
Steve P.
Holiday, Florida

Charger_Fan

The main problem with plucking the coil wire off is that eventually, you'll wear it out & it will possibly leave you stranded somewhere...besides, any halfway decent thief will carry his own spare coil wire in his pocket.

The hidden kill switch & fuel cut-off ideas are good, plus a Lo-Jack & I figure you've got 90% of the average thieves ideas covered. The only ones who wouldn't be outsmarted by any of that stuff would be the real pro's...the kind that rip off Ferarri's & stuff.

The Aquamax...yes, this bike spent 2 nights underwater one weekend. (Not my doing), but it gained the name, and has since become pseudo-famous. :)

Wakko

Quote from: resq302 on March 10, 2006, 07:21:38 AM
The problem with Lo-Jack is that not every police department has it.  Lo-Jack requires a lot of labor installing the system into a police car which is the reason why most police departments do not get it even though it is free to police departments.  With the antennas being so sensitive for the system for police cars and the time that a department has a patrol car for, it is usually not worth it to the police departments to get a lo-jack system installed into a car. 

LoJack down here comes to your house and installs the system in the car while you're inside drinkin' beers.  I don't think it takes that long either.    We have three Lojack cars on each shift and in each of our helos. 
Ian

'69 Basketcase, bluetooth powered

Boynton 236 F&AM

Skyview69

Doesn't the key need to be in the on position before you can jump the relay to start it????

I just tried my 71 and that is the only way it will start that way.  If the key is in the off posistion it will just crank over.  When you turn the key to the on position and then jump the relay it fires up!

Lunger

 one way to scare them off is leave it open headers, lol it will wake all in a 3 mile radius. Or put a stick on Ford logo on it, no one steals that junk.
BULL OF THE WOODS

'CUDA360

I had the micro switch near the seatbelt under the carpet, (on a gm product I owned years ago) That way you look like your reaching for the seatbelt while you start the car

69chargeryeehaa

Quote from: Skyview69 on March 10, 2006, 01:09:59 PM
Doesn't the key need to be in the on position before you can jump the relay to start it????

I just tried my 71 and that is the only way it will start that way.  If the key is in the off posistion it will just crank over.  When you turn the key to the on position and then jump the relay it fires up!

if you don't have the key you just run a jumper to give power to the coil, and jump the starter relay, the car will start right up.  you would'nt have turn signals, or instruments but the car would be drivable, you'd have headlights and brake lights.

i like the idea of having the battery in the trunk, and a manual switch to make the car hot, that and the electric fuel pump would really make it hard to steal.  i've seen master switches with keys as well, you could hide that, and make a "secret" switch anywhere like a blower switch to make the fuel pump power "hot".  at least they would'nt be able to drive the car, just hack the dash, ect.....but then there's the whole trailer/tow truck issue.  i think the main issue is to make it hard to get into, take out the door knobs and put anti theft ones so you can't use a coat hanger, and the visual deterent of a club and a alarm light just might be enough to make them go to the "next car".  i just don't leave my charger anywhere, i'm either driving it or it's in the garage. ;D

Arthu®

Quote from: 69chargeryeehaa on March 10, 2006, 02:33:02 PM
Quote from: Skyview69 on March 10, 2006, 01:09:59 PM
Doesn't the key need to be in the on position before you can jump the relay to start it????

I just tried my 71 and that is the only way it will start that way.  If the key is in the off posistion it will just crank over.  When you turn the key to the on position and then jump the relay it fires up!

if you don't have the key you just run a jumper to give power to the coil, and jump the starter relay, the car will start right up.  you would'nt have turn signals, or instruments but the car would be drivable, you'd have headlights and brake lights.

i like the idea of having the battery in the trunk, and a manual switch to make the car hot, that and the electric fuel pump would really make it hard to steal.  i've seen master switches with keys as well, you could hide that, and make a "secret" switch anywhere like a blower switch to make the fuel pump power "hot".  at least they would'nt be able to drive the car, just hack the dash, ect.....but then there's the whole trailer/tow truck issue.  i think the main issue is to make it hard to get into, take out the door knobs and put anti theft ones so you can't use a coat hanger, and the visual deterent of a club and a alarm light just might be enough to make them go to the "next car".  i just don't leave my charger anywhere, i'm either driving it or it's in the garage. ;D

I agree the best way not to get it stolen is to park it as safe as possible. These cars are old are way too easy to break into. I mean especially the charger with it's 2 door coupe shape. With the seperate front and rear window which is lets face it just too easy to get into. It will be hard to keep thieves out of these old cars, but there is some stuff you can do to make it harder for them to drive off. But eventually if the thief is already near your car it's too late. If they have enough time to do everything any of the cut offs, etc will be able to be short cutted. You just have to make sure you catch them asap.

Arthur
Striving for world domination since 1986

472 R/T SE

If no one's ever tried the screwdriver trick, please make sure your car's in gear or neutral.

I run MSD, so I'm able to run a hidden kill switch.   If I have to spend the night somewhere, I crank the wheel hard one way.  That way if they're using a flatbed they have to work for it.  :P  Crooks want the easy route, they don't want to have to work for something.

Crazy Larry

Like a previous poster said - the professional theives are looking for Ferrari's and Hemi 'Cuda's - not a non-numbers matching Charger with a 440.

It's the petty criminals that I would want to bypass here - and you Skyview69, you are right when you add "park in a safe place". That is one of the most effective ways to keep away the bad guys. Parking in the far corner of an underground mall parking lot is not a good idea in the long run.  :o

Crazy Larry

Quote from: AllBlueRT on March 10, 2006, 06:28:37 PM
If no one's ever tried the screwdriver trick, please make sure your car's in gear or neutral.

I run MSD, so I'm able to run a hidden kill switch.   If I have to spend the night somewhere, I crank the wheel hard one way.  That way if they're using a flatbed they have to work for it.  :P  Crooks want the easy route, they don't want to have to work for something.

Does MSD have a the wiring for a kill switch already set-up - possibly at the brain box? Or did you design the wiring run yourself?

I love the crank the wheels thing - that's a good idea.

Charger Aficionado

  I didn't read this whole post, but I have connects with GM products, and I'm adding OnStar.  GPS tracking etc...

Mike DC

                 
Forget all that anti-theft crap.  Just put a 4-speed in your Charger. 

Dumbass teenagers can't learn the 1st/reverse shifter pattern from PlayStation games and they're probably not even strong enough to push the clutch pedal down anyway.

               

71_deputy

Quote from: chrisII on March 08, 2006, 08:30:26 PM
its pretty simple to hot wire any pre colum lock mopar. not sure what year the colum locks started, but i am thinking my 69 coronet had the dash mounted switch, i may be wrong on this..either way a simple piece of wire with 2 alagator clips, one to the pos post of the batt, the second to the balast resistor (+ side of the coil will work for a while). now stick a screwdriver between the big post and small post on the starter to crank it over (or jump the firewall relay) and VROOOM it starts right up. supplying power direct to the ballast will work on mopar elec ign or points systems.

     now before anyone starts thinkin im a car thief , im not but i have had to use this trick to get a couple parts cars running. these ignition systems arent rocket science, why do you think they invented the colum lock.

very correct!!!!!!!!!!


done this for a buddy's car  years ago- no colunm lock.

using a double pole double throw switch hidden in the car.
one one set of switch poles you cut into the power wire to the coil on " start " , this cuts off the power to the coil from the ing sw. and using the other contact pole of the  " kill sw " you ground the wire to the car that feeds the coil!!!
this will prevent the jumper of 12 volts to the coil- watch the sparks fly!!!!!

using the other set off contacts - use it to turn on a flashing led like a car alarm!!!!!! as well as reminding you the " kill sw " is on!
1971 Deputy Challenger 383 4bbl-- 1 of 2 made!!
1967 Charger 440/auto
1973 Road Runner 340/4 speed
2000 1500 Ram Van

472 R/T SE

Quote from: Crazy Larry on March 10, 2006, 06:34:39 PM
Quote from: AllBlueRT on March 10, 2006, 06:28:37 PM
If no one's ever tried the screwdriver trick, please make sure your car's in gear or neutral.

I run MSD, so I'm able to run a hidden kill switch.   If I have to spend the night somewhere, I crank the wheel hard one way.  That way if they're using a flatbed they have to work for it.  :P  Crooks want the easy route, they don't want to have to work for something.

Does MSD have a the wiring for a kill switch already set-up - possibly at the brain box? Or did you design the wiring run yourself?





It's tied into the "switched" wire if I remember correctly.  We're getting ready to put a new 6AL box in, so I'll check.

Another redneck way is to take your hood pop up spring out.  You hear the hood latch, but nothing happens.  Fools even the Mopar guys.  ;D

hemihead

I have the old fashioned alarm system,a German Shepard and a Colt 45 Auto. and I'm a very good shot.
Lots of people talkin' , few of them know
Soul of a woman was created below
  Led Zeppelin

rt green

why mess with the electrical system at all? rig up 2 line locks for the brake system so the wheels will not turn. even if you were to drag it on a flat bed, squeeling tires would make noise.  you might be able to make the rear wheels turn with horsepower,  but the the front wheels would be locked also.                 bruce
third string oil changer

Crazy Larry

Quote from: rt green on March 12, 2006, 09:50:21 AM
why mess with the electrical system at all? rig up 2 line locks for the brake system so the wheels will not turn. even if you were to drag it on a flat bed, squeeling tires would make noise.  you might be able to make the rear wheels turn with horsepower,  but the the front wheels would be locked also.                 bruce

Line locks? Can't say I ever heard of those - any details?

I love anyway that doesn't mess with the electrical system but sometimes you just gotta



autodynamics

since im in the business there are a few ways to combat a car from being stolen. first most thief's know about starter kill relays and such so i think thats a poor suggestion, i would in your case ground the coil wire with a switch or even the cigarette lighter would work.its real easy to jump the starter wire especially under the hood on the car. as for grounding the coil i would right to the coil and disguise the wire so it looks factory. as far as tracking devices there are plenty on the market that can be purchased for about 300 that will allow you to track your vehicle via the internet. and tell you were its been and rate of travel among other things. i suggest for all of us not to have one method of determent rather than a alarm/ kill switch/ tracking device/ or what have you all would work especially together...

472 R/T SE

Quote from: autodynamics on March 12, 2006, 12:59:40 PM
since im in the business there are a few ways to combat a car from being stolen. first most thief's know about starter kill relays and such so i think thats a poor suggestion, i would in your case ground the coil wire with a switch or even the cigarette lighter would work.its real easy to jump the starter wire especially under the hood on the car. as for grounding the coil i would right to the coil and disguise the wire so it looks factory. as far as tracking devices there are plenty on the market that can be purchased for about 300 that will allow you to track your vehicle via the internet. and tell you were its been and rate of travel among other things. i suggest for all of us not to have one method of determent rather than a alarm/ kill switch/ tracking device/ or what have you all would work especially together...


Most of us aren't in "your" business so we do what we think will work.

No one's gonna start my car with the kill switch activated, hell the dumbshti's won't even be able to open the hood.  They may get it on a flatbed truck, but they will have problems.

autodynamics

you can always put a hood lock in that probably the best bet so nobody can access your hood from the outside..

rt green

line locks are used during the burnout phase at the drags. when you go through the water hole, you do the burn out to heat up your tires, right? the line lock is a soliniod that you place in your rear brake line, so that your rear brakes don't ativate when you power brake. your front brakes will.    rig up the same system where you can press the brake pedal down,cancell the brake lamps, and the soliniods will lock your brake system on. havent got it all mapped out yet, but it should work. a seporate 12v system could activate it and deactivate it if need be. this is what i plan to work on for mine.
third string oil changer

'CUDA360

I don't think so rtgreen
The solenoid would have to stay on all the time and those things get real hot after a while. I remember I left mine on at the track once and then leaned on it while I was jetting the carb. It was so hot it left a mark..
I think the least it would do is drain the battery out but the worst is burn up wires or even melt down

rt green

third string oil changer

blackcrowe

my friend put a steel hoop in his driveway n used special chain and padlock through the k frame..i think if they really want it theyll get it.but the more stuff you put as a deterrant the better