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Engine missing...

Started by rsw0331usmc, July 01, 2014, 04:15:15 PM

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rsw0331usmc

This morning the Charger started and ran strong, after about 15 min, it started missing until ultimately it stalled. I was able to start and stall the car all the way home. It ran like shit most of the way but there were intermittent pulses where all eight were firing but each time was temporary and short lived. When it started going bad it felt like it was running on 7, then 6, and so on. I let it cool down and suspected the ballast resistor as everything else is tight and appears in order. The wire going to the distributor was still connected but pulled off rather easy. I finagled with the female side and got it to fit better and hold on a little tighter. I bought another resistor but gave the incumbent one another chance as now I suspect the limp connection was the problem. The car started and idled fine, I have yet to road test it. Does everyone else agree with my prognosis?

Ghoste

Bad connections and poor grounds are some of the most prevalent gremlins out there.  I'd give it the road test to be sure but good chance you have it.

Cooter

What kinda carb?
What kinda ignition?
How old are wires/plugs/cap/rotor?
What kinda coil? How old?
" I have spent thousands of dollars and countless hours researching what works and what doesn't and I'm willing to share"

rsw0331usmc

Holley 750, manual choke, Mopar performance orange box and mopar performance distributor, wires, cap, rotor were brand new installed last year, about 1000 miles on the engine, Accel Super Stock coil, same as the wires, etc.

Replacing the ballast resistor seemed to do the trick but I haven't driven the car much since.

I just ordered an MSD 6AL ignition controller. I want to bypass the ballast resistor since I'll never again feel secure driving around. It also was brand new, came with the orange box controller so it has to be the correct one.

Please forgive the delayed response, this time of year I don't drive the cars much, I stick to the motorcycles.