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Author Topic: WHAT IS THE EXACT LENGTH OF DAYTONA NOSE MOUNTING C-CHANNEL  (Read 6430 times)
daytonalo
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« Reply #25 on: March 26, 2006, 02:44:15 PM »

MIKE I DONT EXACTLY FOLLOW YOU , LOOKING FROM THE SIDE OF CAR WHAT IS THE GAP BETWEEN THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF FENDER AND OUTSIDE EDGE OF CONE . ALSO WHAT TYPE OF SEALING METHOD WAS USED ON SIPERBIRD? AND HAVE YOU EVER USED THIS SETUP ON A DAYTONA ?
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dayclona
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« Reply #26 on: March 26, 2006, 06:43:50 PM »

MIKE I DONT EXACTLY FOLLOW YOU , LOOKING FROM THE SIDE OF CAR WHAT IS THE GAP BETWEEN THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF FENDER AND OUTSIDE EDGE OF CONE . ALSO WHAT TYPE OF SEALING METHOD WAS USED ON SIPERBIRD? AND HAVE YOU EVER USED THIS SETUP ON A DAYTONA ?





  Larry,

         On the Daytona  3/4" to 7/8".gap between the nose/ fender as stated above,.................................................the birds used a noseseal that was applied to the joining edges/ pichweld of the fender and front inner fender/ lite bucket support edge,.........acting more as a chafe, or rub strip to isolate the bird cone from shake at speed.,................note the Daytona/ 70 charger fender has this same edge., exactly like the Bird/ 70 Coronet, so if you desire , you could use the superbird seal on the charger fender..............................Larry, I done daytona/ bird cones, real/ clone in all configurations, from stock, to custom, to molded in to the fenders,...............the choice is yours, as to personal prefrence?


Mike G/ DAYCLONA
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daytonalo
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« Reply #27 on: March 26, 2006, 09:48:08 PM »

LETS SAY I USE A SUPERBIRD SEAL ON A DAYTONA , WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN APPERANCE. LARRY
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daytonalo
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« Reply #28 on: March 27, 2006, 08:42:07 AM »

HEMI GENE, IS THERE ANY WAY YOU CAN POST A PICTURE OF THE VALANCE WHERE IT MEETS THE NOSE  TAKEN FROM THE INSIDE ? AND IF YOU COULD A CLOSE-UP OF THE OUTSIDE GAP OF NOSE TO FENDER.    THANK YOU ,LARRY
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hemigeno
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« Reply #29 on: March 27, 2006, 10:12:41 AM »

HEMI GENE, IS THERE ANY WAY YOU CAN POST A PICTURE OF THE VALANCE WHERE IT MEETS THE NOSE  TAKEN FROM THE INSIDE ? AND IF YOU COULD A CLOSE-UP OF THE OUTSIDE GAP OF NOSE TO FENDER.    THANK YOU ,LARRY

Larry, your PM box is full so I couldn't reply to you directly.  Yes, I can take some more pictures.  What specific part of that joint would you like to see?  The upper part of the valance? Near the crash bar?  In the center in front of the radiator?

Taking pics of the outer part of the fender-to-nosecone seal is no problem too.

I had seen your question, but I didn't have a chance to walk out in the shop yet.  We had the local Fire Marshall here at the office for our annual occupancy permit inspection and I was a little tied up with him.

 cheers

Gene

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daytonalo
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« Reply #30 on: March 27, 2006, 10:19:04 AM »

THOSE FIRE MARSHALLS CAN BE A PAIN IN THE ASS , USUALLY POWER-HUNGRY JERK-OFFS !. JUST POST PIX ON HERE IF YOU CAN . I NEED TO SEE HOW THE VALENCE ATTACHES TO CROSS BAR DIRECTLY BEHIND NOSE , THANK YOU , LARRY
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hemigeno
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« Reply #31 on: March 27, 2006, 12:33:36 PM »

Larry,

I don't think the pictures I took can show exactly how the valance attaches to the crossmember, as I don't think that will be apparent unless you took the pieces apart.  Here goes though...

Fender-to-Nosecone seal


* 100_1513a.JPG (53.51 KB, 833x556 - viewed 288 times.)
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hemigeno
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« Reply #32 on: March 27, 2006, 12:34:14 PM »

Another view of the fender-to-nosecone seal


* 100_1514a.JPG (39.65 KB, 833x556 - viewed 295 times.)
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hemigeno
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« Reply #33 on: March 27, 2006, 12:35:18 PM »

Top view of valance/crossmember/nosecone connection


* 100_1515a.JPG (94.56 KB, 653x980 - viewed 294 times.)
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hemigeno
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« Reply #34 on: March 27, 2006, 12:36:46 PM »

Underneath/bottom view of valance/nosecone connection.  The rusty portion in the center is metal, the painted portions at either end is a rubber seal with overspray (that's they way they built 'em)



* 100_1516a.JPG (72.21 KB, 653x730 - viewed 297 times.)
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daytonalo
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« Reply #35 on: March 27, 2006, 12:45:00 PM »

THANK YOU , DOES THE FRONT EDGE OF VALENCE BOLT TO BOTTOM OF NOSE OR ONLY TO THAT CROSS BRACE THAT RUNS FROM C-BRACE TO C-BRACE ?
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hemigeno
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« Reply #36 on: March 27, 2006, 01:06:32 PM »

The Cross Brace width in the center is marked in yellow below...


* 100_1515b.JPG (95.11 KB, 653x980 - viewed 289 times.)
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hemigeno
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« Reply #37 on: March 27, 2006, 01:09:20 PM »

The cross brace is outlined in yellow in this picture


* 100_1515c.JPG (96.46 KB, 653x980 - viewed 297 times.)
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hemigeno
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« Reply #38 on: March 27, 2006, 01:11:59 PM »

The cross brace is also indicated in yellow from this same picture I posted earlier


* 100_1509c.JPG (90.09 KB, 882x588 - viewed 293 times.)
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hemigeno
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« Reply #39 on: March 27, 2006, 01:29:34 PM »

THANK YOU , DOES THE FRONT EDGE OF VALENCE BOLT TO BOTTOM OF NOSE OR ONLY TO THAT CROSS BRACE THAT RUNS FROM C-BRACE TO C-BRACE ?

To specifically answer your question, there are three flanges that are bolted together.  The flange at the rear of the nosecone is on bottom, and is overlapped by the forward flange from the valance.  Those two are bolted to the cross brace flange, which is what you see on top (and has been outlined in yellow).

It's really hard to explain how these fit together unless you're looking at the pieces.  Can you post any pictures of what you're trying to fit together?

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daytonalo
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« Reply #40 on: March 27, 2006, 03:48:09 PM »

IM TRYING TO GET AN IDEA HOE THE ORIG NOSE WAS DONE . I'M USING A STINGER NOSE SO I HAVE TO MAKE ALL OF THE BRACING . UNLESS ANYBODY HAS TRIED TO INSTALL AND FUNCTION LIKE AN ORIG NOSE INCLUDING THE HEADLIGHTS WORKING JUST LIKE THE ORIGINALS DID MOST PEOPLE THINK ITS A MATTER OF BUYING A NOSE , SLAPPING IT ON THEN GO OUT AND BURN RUBBER , BOY ARE THEY CLUELESS !
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dayclona
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« Reply #41 on: March 27, 2006, 04:07:11 PM »

THANK YOU , DOES THE FRONT EDGE OF VALENCE BOLT TO BOTTOM OF NOSE OR ONLY TO THAT CROSS BRACE THAT RUNS FROM C-BRACE TO C-BRACE ?

To specifically answer your question, there are three flanges that are bolted together.  The flange at the rear of the nosecone is on bottom, and is overlapped by the forward flange from the valance.  Those two are bolted to the cross brace flange, which is what you see on top (and has been outlined in yellow).

It's really hard to explain how these fit together unless you're looking at the pieces.  Can you post any pictures of what you're trying to fit together?








       As I mentioned earlier in my post Larry, all 3 pcs are indeed bolted together,.........It's hard to see when a nosecone is assembled on the car,......so lets back up to the begining, and assemble the nose, the cone should have the L/R lite buckets mounted (complete assemblies), the Z bars bolted to the lite buckets/ lower nose tabs, the forward lite harness, the forward vacumm harness (if using vacumm),directionals mounted/ grounded to the Z bar( ground wire if using 69 valiant lites), the grille frame/ screen, ..................on a "real", or correctly done Daytona, the 2 vertical Z bar seals, and the lower/ horizontial seals would be pop riveted into place, all this stuff has to be in place at finish installation, as you will be hard pressed to try and install it later with the nose bolted on the car!.............now to the car, the C frames would be bolted to the frame, were the bumper brackets were, the fender seals would be installed, the lower valance would be installed, the cross member tieing the C frames would be bolted to the C frames, it would mate with the valance flange, (but not bolted yet in the center, it still has to receive the nose cone),......the inner fender air seals L/R would also be installed, the center valance radiator yoke (lower) air seal would also be installed, the drivers side battery/ yoke air seal would be installed, the latch tray rear receiver strip would be present on the upper radiator yoke, the radiator foam seals could be installed along with the radiator, the lower valance foam seals that fill the area between the valance center flange and the outer fender seals would be installed,..............now the car is ready to receive the nose, with as many asistants, slide the nose towards the car, taking note that the Z bars slide inside the C frames, that the lower cone flange slides under the valance flange, now while supporting the nose , 6 bolts per side are run thru the C frames/ Z bars,the horizontial seals installed earlier on the Z bars are now attached with the 6 bolts.per side( you bolt/ nut the Z bar/ C frame first, then install the seal, then washer/ nut the seal on the same bolts)........5 bolts are run thru the cross brace/ valance flange/nose cone, this finishes the bottom bolting,........now the latch tray is bolted to the top of the Z bar flanges/ the upper cone flange/ and the radiator support,..............of course, some aligning, tweaking, is needed at this point to line up the nose, best to "hand" tighten at this point of assemble, as the nose will move and distort, also the headlite doors which may have been perfect before, ......may need realignment, ( monkey arms are needed at this point!),..........Larry I know your car will differ in some construction "points" as you have fabricated your own peices,..............which is fine!, you'll have to adjust your componets to your individual assembly specs/ order,..............I just felt to convey the order in which I assemble Factory/ my cloned parts,(plus this might help others lost in assembly).............usally when all the peices have been dry fitted, painted, detailed, etc..........to assemble a cone,prepare the car to receive it, install the cone, fully aligned it,.........generally takes 2 people 3-4 hrs to complete,..........this is  after you,ve done it a few dozen times! Grin  .................Larry if you are going to set your nosecone up to fit like a bird, using bird seals,..........you must shorten the width of the lower nosecone flange to allow the cone to move back against the car, also the latch tray receiver stip must be shortened  in width to allow the latch tray to move rearward, ( assuming your using a Daytona latch tray)...............refer to the pics that Hemigeno posted to understand visually what I posted here!



MIKE G/ DAYCLONA
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dayclona
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« Reply #42 on: March 27, 2006, 04:45:47 PM »

IM TRYING TO GET AN IDEA HOE THE ORIG NOSE WAS DONE . I'M USING A STINGER NOSE SO I HAVE TO MAKE ALL OF THE BRACING . UNLESS ANYBODY HAS TRIED TO INSTALL AND FUNCTION LIKE AN ORIG NOSE INCLUDING THE HEADLIGHTS WORKING JUST LIKE THE ORIGINALS DID MOST PEOPLE THINK ITS A MATTER OF BUYING A NOSE , SLAPPING IT ON THEN GO OUT AND BURN RUBBER , BOY ARE THEY CLUELESS !









      Larry,
       I can feel your need for info,.................it's generally lacking with other vendors,...............they sell you the stuff,............but thats generally it!.....your on your own,...............I usally offer  assembly, full/ partial,...............or detailed pics, instructions with the sale of my parts if a customer is green on assy..............................most people new to building a wingcar haven't a clue whats inside that cone,? or under a rear window plug? ....................never mind the amount of research needed just to tool up to produce parts , the time/ money needed to tool up, the supplies/ equipment/shop/etc /etc..................then the wingers themselves!....................who think their gonna build a wingcar on a prayer and a shoestring budget!.................like ya said , alot of think I'll just slap on a wing/ nose,...............and go cruising!!!!!!!!!!!!.................most phone conversations usally start with I need a wing and a cone,..........do I need anything else! Roll Eyes    after the "laundry list of parts" and $$$$$$$$$$$ needed,               it's,......................I'll get back to you? ,...............you sure I need all that?


Mike G/ DAYCLONA
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daytonalo
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« Reply #43 on: March 27, 2006, 06:14:27 PM »

THANK YOU MIKE AND GENE , YOU HAVE BOTH BEEN A BIG HELP . LARRY . HEY MIKE WHAT IS THE ADVANTAGE GOING WITH S-BIRD SEALS VS DAYTONA AND WHERE DO I GET S-BIRD SEALS ?
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G-Series
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« Reply #44 on: March 27, 2006, 07:58:36 PM »

Year One
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daytonalo
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« Reply #45 on: March 27, 2006, 10:49:10 PM »

WHAT WILL I GAIN BY  USING A S-BIRD SEAL VS A DAYTONA , AND HOW MUCH TIGHTER WILL THE GAP BE BETWEEN THE NOSE AND THE FENDER?....LARRY
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daytonalo
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« Reply #46 on: March 27, 2006, 11:11:25 PM »

year one sells those seals for 18 each , is this right ? sounds cheap
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G-Series
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« Reply #47 on: March 28, 2006, 05:57:09 AM »

That's them.  You'll gain a more refined/sleeker look, but at what cost.  Think about how much extra work you'll be creating for yourself.  Reread Mike's post about what is required to move the nose back the 3/4".   Your car, your decision.  If you look at the black Winged Bee we did(pics on website), we moved the nose back and used the Bird seals.
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daytonalo
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« Reply #48 on: March 28, 2006, 09:44:54 AM »

AT THIS POINT WHAT IS A LITTLE EXTRA WORK TO MAKE IT PERFECT , THAT HAS ALWAYS BEEN MY LOGIC ANYWAY ! THANKS FOR THE TIP ON THE SUPERBIRD SEALS , I'M GOING WITH THAT SET- UP .. LARRY
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nascarxx29
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« Reply #49 on: March 28, 2006, 09:45:38 AM »

It will look cleaner with the superbird type nose fitting and typical superbird type windshield gaskets seals for daytonalos car . Just wondering as his car has the ribbed 70 typical charger hood .Will there be any clearance issues to look out for.That was earlier mentioned in this.Not sure if this will affect daytonalos procedure though
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,8213.0.html
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1969 R4 Daytona XX29L9B410772
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
1970 EV2 Superbird RM23VOA179697
1968 426 Road Runner RM21J8A134509
1970 Coronet RT WS23UOA224126
1970 Daytona Clone XP29GOG178701
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