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Author Topic: Superbird plug install for a clone. Anybody got pics?  (Read 6226 times)
oldcarnut
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« on: January 03, 2015, 12:21:22 AM »

Searched but all I could find was Daytona installs.  I wanted to see how and how much of the panel to the trunk was cut. When I set the plug on the back of the car, its lifted up so high at the trunk, it makes me think something was cut to get it to lay down. Previously I was thinking it was just fit in.  I've seen plugs in place on real Birds but haven't seen any "how it's done" threads.  Any of the clone builders here got links or pictures of the before and afters they could post?  How many of you that used the fg plugs had problems years down the road after the work was done from cracking or flexing?  I got a TJ plug for mine along with his window but I also got a real glass window I'd prefer to use instead. I know Jack did make some and I emailed the site and the FB page of the new owner of his equipment to see if any steel ones were left and got no response.  Waiting on Don to see what he says too.  If I'm not going back with a vinyl top, do I really need the triangle pieces and either fill or get a plug made without the recesses put in them  confused?  This is the best I found so far http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,43102.125.html
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FJ5WING
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« Reply #1 on: January 03, 2015, 09:37:54 AM »

are you sure you have the bird plug?
 It dosent sound right that its not a plug and go part.

I don't have any clone experience so I guess I should just sit and watch but like I said dosent sound right.
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Stevearino
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« Reply #2 on: January 03, 2015, 09:49:54 AM »

PM DonC1. He builds them from scratch out of sheet metal and if anyone would know how that panel interfaces it would be him. Twocents


* DonC1.jpg (99.67 KB, 648x486 - viewed 917 times.)
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #3 on: January 03, 2015, 10:34:32 AM »

I did but his box is full so I emailed him but haven't heard back yet.  I hadnt checked my plug until last night when I set it on the car just to look.  Up till then I thought it was more or less set in and attach it but there's support under it that causes it to lift up above the panel.  I'll take some pics when I get home tonight after work
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #4 on: January 03, 2015, 05:01:15 PM »

Looks like it just lays and gets welded  From Corndogs page

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Stevearino
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« Reply #5 on: January 03, 2015, 05:22:02 PM »

That's what it looks like. Are you saying that the lip that extends down from the window bed at the bottom of the plug is keeping it from sitting down on the panel ahead of the trunk lid. If so it just might have to be  manipulated a bit to get it to lay down.
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #6 on: January 03, 2015, 05:36:31 PM »

I think your right  yesnod
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500Jon
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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2015, 05:17:59 AM »

WoW OldCarNut,

Never seen a Bird plug removed till now.
It seems alot of work to fit for little aerodynamic gain...
The Daytona and C500 plug was a must fit item, as we know.

At lest Bird owners have a full size trunk opening.
Ever tried getting in a C500/Daytona trunk???
ITS NOT EASY WITHOUT STEPS AND VASELINE LOL.

My Birdmate had his plug filled in at the corners by accident at the paintshop.
He forgot to tell them about the Plug finish-caps, so they blended the corners with Bondo!!! it'll buff out

Looks good in my opinion, especially without a vinyl... 2thumbs
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dak440
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« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2015, 06:54:02 PM »

I've cut out three plugs now on Superbirds and they all looked very similar to this. You need to look this area over very carefully before deciding your car doesn't need work under the plug. Chances are really good that there will be significant rust hiding here. Dead giveaway is black silicone or any resealing evidence around the chrome moldings.


* 20131101_0120.jpg (52.19 KB, 431x288 - viewed 755 times.)
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DoubleDlover
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« Reply #9 on: January 07, 2015, 12:40:11 PM »

so how do I find the FB page of the new owner of jacks tools and stuff? I looked and cant find it. r
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #10 on: January 07, 2015, 01:50:00 PM »

I never got a response from him but clicked to join the page. When I get the page back I'll post or pm it for ya.  Back to the plug I had, it has a tall piece of extra fiberglass across the back that has to be trimmed down to get it to the panel.
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DoubleDlover
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« Reply #11 on: January 07, 2015, 05:37:08 PM »

ok thank you. I would love to check it out. I bought the last plug from him before he passed away. Ive done a couple of them though the years. Its actualy pretty simple. They would kick the deck lid back just a C hair to give room for the plug lip that hangs into the gutter. So its ok to have the lid just slightly sticking out past the end caps.
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Hemi Runner
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« Reply #12 on: January 07, 2015, 06:09:39 PM »

I've cut out three plugs now on Superbirds and they all looked very similar to this. You need to look this area over very carefully before deciding your car doesn't need work under the plug. Chances are really good that there will be significant rust hiding here. Dead giveaway is black silicone or any resealing evidence around the chrome moldings.

They must have put the plugs on over bare metal and then sprayed the car for all that rust to accumulate. Are there any pictures of these being done when new?
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gtx6970
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« Reply #13 on: January 08, 2015, 08:19:48 AM »

If I may ask,

to for the ones building clones with repop window plugs,,,what are you using for the rear window trim ?
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Bill Allphin
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« Reply #14 on: January 08, 2015, 11:45:13 AM »

If I may ask,

to for the ones building clones with repop window plugs,,,what are you using for the rear window trim ?

My clone is going to be a lowered, drag radial, race car so I was going to go with the fiberglass trim that Janak sells. My trim will all be painted anyhow. I'm not sure what everyone else will be using.
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #15 on: January 08, 2015, 11:57:45 AM »

I'm going to try and waterjet a one piece trim out of some stainless sheet metal I have.  Depends if the guy will program and cut it for me.  He did my nose cone light and grill trim same way. If that don't work out I will try bending the  Charger and RR combo as listed in another thread.   On that same thread somebody used window trim from a Chevy van.   If I have the thread saved I'll copy it here.
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billssuperbird
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« Reply #16 on: January 08, 2015, 12:30:45 PM »

I used black rubber trim from a a Chevy van till got the chrome one peace from Ted
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DonC1
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« Reply #17 on: January 09, 2015, 12:24:38 AM »

I use flat stainless sheet strips run through a shrinker to get the correct curvature then weld them together to form a one piece band then adhere with adhesive or tabs
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DoubleDlover
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« Reply #18 on: January 09, 2015, 01:26:07 AM »

repop rear window trim I see is down to around 800? Not to horrible. I know not good either. for 4 F***ing pieces of trim.... But... what ever. Then yes janaks chromed plastic one piece one is avtualy not bad. Ive seen them on cars and they actualy look pretty dam good. r
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nascarxx29
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« Reply #19 on: February 17, 2015, 03:06:06 PM »


Hello David and good speaking to you the other day. Interesting story on the Bird and Charger and I am sure it will make a good one on TV. I got on Charger.com. for the first time for a while. Good stuff.

 

I ran across this one:
 

 

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,115396.0.html

 

If you are still registered can you post a reply to the guy and simply ask him to call me. All of my Factory Equivalent Line of Parts come with unlimited technical assistance as always on how to put it all together. A simple phone call to me will simplify his project of how to put it together. The lip he is talking about is the reinforcing lip under the package tray lip of the plug. This needs to be trimmed. It is left long intentionally because it is not intended to be trimmed until the installer does a few of the other preliminary steps first to ensure optimum fitting. Please post for him to call me. 281/379-2828. Thanks David. Ted
 
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1970 EV2 Superbird RM23UOA174597
1970 FY1 Superbird RM23UOA166242
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Arnie Cunningham
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« Reply #20 on: February 18, 2015, 05:31:27 PM »

I thought these vanished when my hard drive locked up.  I am not sure if they are of use - this is a rust free original install never removed.


* IMG_6540.JPG (89.13 KB, 614x461 - viewed 467 times.)

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* IMG_6543.JPG (82.18 KB, 614x461 - viewed 491 times.)

* IMG_6544.JPG (42.21 KB, 461x614 - viewed 469 times.)
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #21 on: February 18, 2015, 07:08:01 PM »

Great pics 2thumbs 2thumbs  Thanks for posting them.  They're going to help me with the teeth too.  Here's a couple from the original reason I posted the question.  Biggest difference now is I have the window out and before I was kinda sizing it up with it in.  I probably jumped the gun but I see the piece how it would need trimming.


* DSCN1643[1].JPG (166.87 KB, 640x480 - viewed 457 times.)

* DSCN1644[1].JPG (152.62 KB, 640x480 - viewed 471 times.)

* DSCN1645[1].JPG (166.08 KB, 640x480 - viewed 464 times.)

* DSCN1646[1].JPG (159.16 KB, 640x480 - viewed 453 times.)
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oldcarnut
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« Reply #22 on: February 18, 2015, 07:11:01 PM »

I put a piece of the regular window trim in the plug and with a little tweaking it doesn't appear that it would be that hard to make it work.


* DSCN1647[1].JPG (172.44 KB, 640x480 - viewed 467 times.)
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rob-dirt
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« Reply #23 on: February 06, 2018, 02:58:07 PM »

PM DonC1. He builds them from scratch out of sheet metal and if anyone would know how that panel interfaces it would be him. Twocents

dose anybody know if the plug don makes will fit a factory glass and trimm

i have email him several times no reply is he still making them  thank,s in advance  2thumbs
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hemi68charger
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« Reply #24 on: February 06, 2018, 03:39:47 PM »

Let's not forget the "L" spacers that are tacked welded to the window channels on the top and side that position the rear plug in space properly.... The plug DOES NOT rest on the original window channel.....

I will try to get a picture of what I am talking about unless someone chimes in.

T
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