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Glass fuse block to blade. Anyone found an OEM that works out good conversion

Started by oldcarnut, April 17, 2015, 01:57:58 PM

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oldcarnut

As Im starting to wire up my custom gauge dash and thinking of other upgrades that will be added like AC, rad fan etc, I started to wonder about using the blade type block under hood or in tandem with under dash blade block.  I know there are some aftermarket complete harness kits and some fuse blocks sold on their own but anyone installed a late model car/trk blocks from the scrap yard that worked out good.  Some have the relays and other options that would seem ideal located at one place.  Figured I'd ask as I haven't seen any recent posts and only one reference many years ago about a Caravan block.

TexasStroker

On the Duster, I have a blade fuse block and the factory fuse block...

The one I bought was Borg Warner and it set me back all of about $10.  It has worked great since around 2005.  There are a few really nice ones available...I kind of like the marine designs, but I suppose they are a tad overkill.

I would assume you could find "new" aftermarket blocks with a few relays in place for similar coin to the scrap yards.
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b5blue

I've looked also with no good finds online for new. I'm looking for something custom for under the hood after replacing the dash harness.

oldcarnut

What I'm looking at now and going to get is a box from a early2000+ Jeep Grand Cherokee.  Looks to be a smaller rectangular box with a cover that would fit under the hood nicely.  It has several built in relays and plenty of fuse options.  I may try and run the headlight relay upgrade as well as fans etc for higher power draws through it.  Will also look at just eliminating the under dash box completely and run to this one.  Once I get in my hands I'll have a better idea.

b5blue

Funny I've been eyeballing the relay bank in my 89 XJ Cherokee.  :lol: It's no fuse bank though..... I'd like to see it if ya get one.  :scratchchin:



TexasStroker

Will follow along...

I like your first idea of having his one underhood and keeping the factory one under the dash...it would suck to have to pop the hood if interior lights/tails/etc just popped a fuse.
Founder, Amarillo Area Mopars
www.amarilloareamopars.com
Founder, Lone Star Mopars
www.lonestarmopars.com
Will set-up a regional Charger meet
Contact me for info!

oldcarnut

Went out the junkyard  today for a look around and canned the Jeep idea. It was a little too big and overkill for what I needed after seeing it in person.  I did find an interior block from a Neon with both fuses and relay connections and a nice compact 4 relay block from an Avenger--trying to keep it Mopar  :eyes:  $17 for everything in the pics

oldcarnut

Well the Neon/PT Cruiser block fits perfect for me.  I have completed my custom dash wiring now but have one more question. I believe from looking at this post on eliminating the amp gauge that all I need to do is crimp and solder the 2 wires together and extend the bulk head wires to complete the under dash part of it? I much rather do it while the dash is out and if anyone has something else I hadn't thought of please let me know.   http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges2.shtml

b5blue

Yes bonding the black and red will allow recharge of battery.  :2thumbs: Now is a good time to install control relays.  :scratchchin:

oldcarnut

Here's where the relays went to operate headlights, headlight motor, and aux radiator fan.  How many amps should the fuse for the low beam and high beams be when running separate feeds?

Dino

Nice work!   :2thumbs:

20-30 amps would be alright depending on the relays you're running.  I run a 30A self-resetting circuit breaker for the headlights.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

b5blue

I'd try 15A for low and 20A for high and run check awhile. If good try 10A and 15A to see if they hold well. You want all fuse's to be right at the lower limit to protect the best.

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

Dino

Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.

oldcarnut

I have 10's on each circuit for now.  I figured since the OEM total was 20 on the old fuse box for the lighting I'd split it between the two :shruggy:  Just wasn't sure based on others experience what they ran into. The whole box feed from the bat is protected with a 30.   Thanks for the feedback

Dodgecharger74

Wattage of lamp   divided by voltage will give you amp draw of the lamp
55 watt  / by 12 volt = 4.58 amps    add lamps together   You can determine wire size and fuse requuired
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