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Which Alternator?

Started by comet_666, June 11, 2015, 10:15:24 AM

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comet_666

Using firecore RTR and want a denso style internally regulated Alt. Not running all that much stuff. Thoughts?

rebby

I went with a Tuff Stuff alternator for my current project. They have a number of models that use a stock style case. http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=175/mode=cat/cat175.htm

I went with the 8509RFDP which is a 100amp externally regulated model but they do have 1-wire setups as well. The 8509RFDP was a "bolt in & go" alternator for me that didn't require any bracket and/or pulley modifications of any kind. Any of the 8509 alternators should be the same.

I'd take a close look at the 8509DSP (http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=9474/category_id=175/mode=prod/prd9474.htm) for your application. They also have chrome or black models. I wanted the natural aluminum myself but in the style that I wanted, I needed to settle for black unless I was willing to wait on a long backorder (which I wasn't).

Summit Racing stocks most of the Tuff Stuff alternators so they are generally readily available (unless you're looking for the natural 3 wire w/a 2g pulley like I was).
Curt Rebelein, Junior
1969 Charger R/T SE (500 Stroker/833/D60 w/XP VIN)
1969 Charger (440/727/8.75, GL Project)

charger1972

I bought a Tuff-stuff 100 amp externally regulated alt , from summit . It keeps burning up one field contact , maybe something shorted out internally ? Got sick of fighting with it and switched to a 120 amp denso from a 95 Ram . It required a little modification to the positive output , but works way better . Had to switch it to a v-belt pulley as well .  And I used the stock style regulator . 

comet_666

Anyone use this?


Powermaster 140 Amp, GM CS130, Internal, duel groove pulley

Alternator, Internal Regulator, 140 Amp



http://www.manciniracing.com/postal.html

John_Kunkel

I installed 150 amp version of one of these; fits in the stock brackets/belt and uses the original regulator.

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_557/Chrysler-Mount-Mega-Amp-Alternator.htm

Maintains 14+ volts with everything (Lights, A/C, cooling fan, stereo) turned on and idling at 800 rpm.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

comet_666

Is the one wire one internally regulated? I don't want to use a voltage regulator or a ballast anymore.

John_Kunkel


If it's "one wire" it has to be, by definition, internally regulated.

Personally, I don't understand this fascination with one-wire alternators...two less wires, no big deal.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

comet_666

Don't really care if it's 1 wire per say, just dont want the extra VR and ballast resistor if I can avoid it.

Thanks for the link, I think I may just go that route.

1974dodgecharger

Quote from: comet_666 on June 16, 2015, 03:43:20 PM
Don't really care if it's 1 wire per say, just dont want the extra VR and ballast resistor if I can avoid it.

Thanks for the link, I think I may just go that route.

you will like it....I have the 180amp version...I idle at 1k though and no blimps with my 1000watt amp, 4 electric fans, all lights etc...

BananaDan

When you move to a 100A alternator, do you need to beef up the wiring on the charging circuit or can you literally just drop it in with no wiring changes?
*This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.®*



Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds. The mediocre mind is incapable of understanding the man who refuses to bow blindly to conventional prejudices and chooses instead to express his opinions courageously and honestly.  ~A. Einstein

Pete in NH

Quote from: BananaDan on June 18, 2015, 02:14:22 PM
When you move to a 100A alternator, do you need to beef up the wiring on the charging circuit or can you literally just drop it in with no wiring changes?

The original charging circuit wiring was only designed to handle 45 amps and just barely at that current. The 40
+ years have not been kind to this old wiring and connections so, a 100 amp alternator needs some upgraded wiring. 100 amps is way too much for the stock ammeter in the dash to handle so, it should be removed from the circuit and replaced by a voltmeter. The wiring changes have been covered many times in this forum, do a search and I'm sure you will find it.

Nacho-RT74

No need for ammeter bypass. The required loads won't go throught ammeter anymore once alt is upgraded
Venezuelan RT 74 400 4bbl, 727, 8.75 3.23 open. Now stroked with 440 crank and 3.55 SG. Here is the History and how is actually: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,7603.0/all.html
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,25060.0.html

MoparRocks

Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on June 17, 2015, 04:45:46 AM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 16, 2015, 03:43:20 PM
Don't really care if it's 1 wire per say, just dont want the extra VR and ballast resistor if I can avoid it.

Thanks for the link, I think I may just go that route.

you will like it....I have the 180amp version...I idle at 1k though and no blimps with my 1000watt amp, 4 electric fans, all lights etc...

I just picked up the 145 amp version for my 71. Any details on the bracket changes you did and where you ran the power wire to? Straight to the batt? Starter solenoid?

While looking under the hood earlier I found some sketchy looking wiring from the PO.
1971 Charger Richard Petty tribute
Mopar 340 three on the tree

1974dodgecharger

Quote from: MoparRocks on August 20, 2015, 01:42:05 AM
Quote from: 1974dodgecharger on June 17, 2015, 04:45:46 AM
Quote from: comet_666 on June 16, 2015, 03:43:20 PM
Don't really care if it's 1 wire per say, just dont want the extra VR and ballast resistor if I can avoid it.

Thanks for the link, I think I may just go that route.

you will like it....I have the 180amp version...I idle at 1k though and no blimps with my 1000watt amp, 4 electric fans, all lights etc...

I just picked up the 145 amp version for my 71. Any details on the bracket changes you did and where you ran the power wire to? Straight to the batt? Starter solenoid?

While looking under the hood earlier I found some sketchy looking wiring from the PO.

RAN mine straight to battery post.....no issues.  I went to ace hardware for a long spacer to make mine fit.