News:

It appears that the upgrade forces a login and many, many of you have forgotten your passwords and didn't set up any reminders. Contact me directly through helpmelogin@dodgecharger.com and I'll help sort it out.

Main Menu

Anybody ever tried FI Tech fuel injection?

Started by Rubberduck, October 28, 2015, 07:14:46 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

WHITE AND RED 69

No problem Dirk  :cheers:

The good news is all these kits are becoming more affordable and easier to install. Holley just came out with a $950 setup as well. When I was looking 6 months ago I had priced a setup to be $3K+ so when I saw the Fitech setup I jumped at it.

The sad part is I know is a couple years from now I will probably replace it for a direct port injection system.   :'(

1969 Dodge Charger R/T
2016 Jeep Grand Cherokee 75th edition
1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1972 Plymouth Duster

John_Kunkel


For those contemplating a FI Tech purchase, $100 more for the "Power Adder" version is money well spent IMHO.

http://fitechefi.com/default.asp.pg-GoEFIPowerAdder
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

xoman60

I just purchased this system with the fuel command center. The instructions state it's mandatory to run a vent line from the fuel command center to the fuel tank or filler tube. I have the stock vent tube coming out of the filler tube and through the trunk floor and exits inside the frame rail. Kinda hard to get to from my inspection. I can probably get some 1/4" hose on it but doubtful a clamp. Is there a vent on the fuel tank on or near the sending unit? Has anyone installed this Fitech fuel command center yet? I have a 69 charger btw. Maybe it would be easier to run a longer vent hose out of the filler tube and connect to that. I'm working on it this weekend but any suggestions are much appreciated. I read white and reds write up which pretty much convinced me to get this but he didn't use the command center on his car.

69wannabe

I am planning on this system soon myself. I am planning on maybe drilling a hole in my filler tube about 3/4 way's up toward the filler cap and threading it and putting a fitting in it if it's thick enough and running my vent line to that or just teeing it in at the top of the filler tube where the rubber hose is for the original vent that goes down into the frame rail. You can call and ask the FI tech technical assistance and see what they say may be best. I have heard they are very helpful with any question's about their product's. I know I said a few years back that I didn't really like fuel injection after a real bad experience with a later model jeep wrangler but with this ethonal fuel we have these days carb's are harder and harder to get to run good as they used to. I have read several good review's about the FI Tech product's and the price is pretty nice too compared to all the other system's. Of course I would love to have a multi port injection system on my 493 but I am not talented enough to make my own EFI system and edelbrock's pro flo system is very pricey. This system look's simple and I can usually do simple, usually......

igozumn

Wanna,

    Fitech is in the process of coming out with their port efi systems.  I don't see a Mopar listing, but there is a basic/universal system at $1300-ish and you'd have to supply the manifold, injectors and rails.  Might be an option to keep in mind for your 493.  I've been contemplating the same.  Trying to think long term, but don't know if I want to commit to that yet or not.  The $995 system may suffice until a full restoration. 
A man walks into a psychiatrist's office wearing nothing but underpants made from saran wrap.  The psychiatrist says, "Well....I can clearly see your nuts...."

John_Kunkel

Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

69wannabe

That would be good for a mild small block I suppose but my 493 is most likely in the 500 hp range so I better go with the 600 hp throttle body. I emailed them about a few question's I have about the vent for the fuel command center and if it has a diagnostic screen if a sensor fail's like a check engine light in a newer vehicle. Just a few thing's I am wondering so I won't be worried about it when I order the throttle body. If I decide to do multi port injection later in life I can always use the throttle body on my ford truck. Lot's of good review's on these kit's and I have already ordered the fuel command center and I still have the molded 5/16 fuel line that I removed off my car that I am planning on using as the vent line since there was nothing wrong with the line itself I just wanted a 3/8 line on it.

69wannabe

I got the Fi Tech throttle body in yesterday but the fuel command center is on back order. I had ordered the command center first hoping to have it plumbed in and ready when the throttle body arrived but oh well. Got the throttle body bolted on today and had to do a little bit of tinkering with the throttle linkage since my cable was as far as it would go toward the carb and the linkage on the throttle body was slightly forward from the carb so I wound up using an edelbrock throttle adapter that I had modified to use on a holley that worked to my advantage since the hole for the carb stud was back farther than with the holley adapter. This took a few min's to figure out but not a big deal. Got the three wires hooked up, one to battery voltage, one to voltage with the switch on and one to the negative side of the coil. The only other wire to hook up goes to the fuel pump. Got to put the coolant temp sensor in and the 02 sensor in and the harness has plug in for them sensors so no splicing wires for those. The pipe plug in my water pump housing between the heater hoses was and still is frozen in the housing so I have the housing off now and will take it to the machine shop and get it removed so I don't screw up the housing or the threads trying to get this out my self. I really suck at trying to get broken bolts and stuff like that out. Also got to run a vent line to the gas tank too and hopefully it won't be that bad to accomplish. I am planning on drilling and threading the filler tube and putting a fitting in a little lower than the original vent. I have an extra filler tube and I have drilled and threaded it and it worked good so at least that should go good too. Can't wait to get the fuel command center and see how this thing work's out!!!!

JR

I installed it last month and absolutely love it. Instant throttle response. Instantly starts up without pumping the gas and messing with the choke. No hesitation like the old Carter had. I absolutely love it. I went with the tanks Inc replacement tank/sending unit/pickup and a 650hp rated walbro pump. And the power adder FiTech kit. It will make future NOS install a breeze. As a plus, the power adder also has a built in electric fan control.

I highly recommend this kit.

Here's some pics I took right after the first test fire. The wiring has been cleaned up since.





70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

John_Kunkel


JR, if you can afford FI you can surely afford the correct molded upper radiator hose. Those accordion hoses say "hillbilly".
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

JR

Yeah John, I dont like that hose either.

About 8 years ago, I replaced the leaky original radiator with an aluminum aftermarket one and the upper outlet is in a different location.  The original molded hose wouldnt work anymore.

I never got around to finding one that would.

One day, ill take the time to find a molded one that will. The ribbed one is the "temporary" fix.
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

69wannabe

I am glad to hear you are satisfied with the kit. I thought about the power adder throttle body but the RPM intake I have is so tall there is no way to put a nitrous plate under it and then the throttle body on top of that. I'm just waiting on the fuel command center and gonna run that vent line and see how it goes. Everyone that has bought these kit's seem to be happy with them so once I get it up and running I should be just as pleased.

John_Kunkel

Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

JR

Ill pick one up this weekend. You just saved me alot of searching.

Thanks! :cheers:
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

69wannabe

I got my water pump housing back on the engine after a guy at work drilled out the old pipe plug and got it out for me. Got the coolant sensor in and plugged up and also took my exhaust pipe loose from the muffler going up to the collector and got it drilled and the bung welded in for the 02 sensor. Put the pipe back on tonight and put the sensor in and it looks about like the pic and I drilled a small hole in a lip on the body close to the bellhousing to mount me a little bracket to tie the 02 sensor wire up with a couple of zip ties to keep it off of the header. Got me some 1/4 tubing ordered to run for a vent line for the fuel command center that hopefully will be here next week and it will be go time then!!! Getting anxious to see how it run's with this throttle body system compared to the old holley double pumper!!!

JR

It's night and day. Wide open throttle won't feel any different if you have a well tuned carb already, but low end and mid range throttle response is a night and day difference. I noticed my 440 revs faster now also.

Are you planning on running it fuel control only, or letting it control fuel/timing?

70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

69wannabe

I am planning on just using it for fuel control only but later on I may try to do the timing control but if it works good fuel control only I most likely will leave it alone and just enjoy it. I have a whole new ignition system with a firecore plug and play dizzy and wire set with ngk plugs and a new msd blaster 2 coil so that should be good as far as my ignition system goes.

JR

That's cool, it'll work great.

The only hurdle you'll run into when installing it as fuel control only;

The "accessory" wire has to be hot during start AND run. The original harness doesn't have a suitable wire  as is.

Most people either;

Jump off the ballast resistor wiring with a one way diode,

Or

Run a push button start.

There are a couple other ways around it I can't remember.

Just a heads up.

It's worth it though.
70 Charger RT top bananna /68 Charger RT triple green

John_Kunkel


Yeah, the white wire needs voltage in ST/RUN. Since you're installing the RTR distributor and Blaster coil, you can eliminate the ballast; hook the wires on both sides of the ballast together and use that to power the white wire.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

69wannabe

The distributor I am running is not a RTR it's a plug and play. I had a wire that I had spliced into the 12 volt side of the resistor for an electric choke on a carb I was running a long time ago and the wire was still there so I tied into that wire. It should work since i'm pretty sure it is hot in the start and run position. If not I will figure something else out.

John_Kunkel


Won't work, the 12V side of the ballast shuts off in the Start mode...it works fine for a choke because the choke doesn't need power in both Start and Run.
Pardon me but my karma just ran over your dogma.

tan top

awesome thread Guys ! i'm soaking up all the info ! defiantly  going with this set up , some day  :P

thanks for sharing the info  :cheers:  :popcrn:
Feel free to post any relevant picture you think we all might like to see in the threads below!

Charger Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,86777.0.html
Chargers in the background where you least expect them 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,97261.0.html
C500 & Daytonas & Superbirds
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,95432.0.html
Interesting pictures & Stuff 
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,109484.925.html
Old Dodge dealer photos wanted
 http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,120850.0.html

69wannabe

Quote from: John_Kunkel on January 24, 2016, 03:31:30 PM

Won't work, the 12V side of the ballast shuts off in the Start mode...it works fine for a choke because the choke doesn't need power in both Start and Run.

How did you wire your white wire in? If that wire is not hot in start and run then how does the ignition system fire when the engine is spinning over. The ignition system has to have voltage to fire when the key is in the start position and also in the run position if i'm thinking correctly or the ignition system would never fire to start the engine. I can always tie the yellow wire for the starter relay into the blue wire going to that side of the resistor and it will have power starting and running for sure then. I don't think that would hurt anything. this is where I have my voltage wire ran for my orange box and it has always worked for that but I will PM Pete and get his opinion on this before I go to jumping wires around.

69wannabe

I looked at my wiring diagram and I see a brown wire coming from the ignition switch for IGN 2. This wire is hot in the start position. Can I just cut this wire loose from the low voltage side of the resistor and tie it into the other side where the 12 volt feed wire is?? I did read in the instructions and yes it does say 12 volts in the start and run position so I will have to do something to get power to the white wire in the start position without back feeding 12 volts back through it.

Dino

If you tie the brown and blue wires from the resistor then the result will be 12 volts in start and run, but you'll be without a resistor.  I have the Firecore RTR so I got rid of the resistor. Can you do this with the plug and play version?  If so, go for it.
Extraordinary claims require extraordinary evidence.