wont start

[motoreese]

I have a 69 Dodge Charger with a 440 i just built.  3 weeks ago i took it apart to do some upgrades. Bigger camshaft (488/489), Thinner head gasket (.020") copper, port and polished heads, windage tray and I have a cowl inducted hood on the way.

The car ran great before the upgrades, the only issue was i would be driving at a low RPM and it would shut off. Sometimes it would start right back up sometimes it would.

Pulled engine out,did all the upgrades then put it back in, now it wont start at all.
I have changed starter relay, Ignition module (chrome box), voltage regulator and a year one ignition wire harnes. The car will turn over if i put a starter button on the strater relay but not through the key. I have power, have gas, and when i buddy hit the button had a very weak spark.
The one issue the new wire harness came with connectors for a 4 pin ballast which i dont have until part store opens.
There is a repay in front that is used for the air motor for headlight doors, usuallly you turn the key and it buzz but now it makes a 2 sec buzzing sound and stops.
I also instlled one of those ministarters.

If anyone has a trick or ran into this shit before please help.

scott.reese73@yahoo.com

Thank you

[nascarxx29]

Do you have a regular point dist to drop in and get going.If  not you need to check out the electronic connections blue yellow wire to single side of ballast black yellow to -neg coil dist plugs together.And plug harness to well grounded module

[XH29N0G]

I would start with checking to see if you get spark.  If not, then work backwards from there.  If it ran then cut off, and then cut back on again, it is possible that you have a loose connection.  I had that happen twice.  Once with the connections that feed through the fire wall, and a second time with a connection to the key switch.  If you have spark, then I would check the timing since I gather the distributor was pulled and reinstalled.  As always, others on here (for all I know, you too) will know a bunch more than me, but this should give you something to start with. 

[nascarxx29]

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,104606.0.html   .In this forum if you search no spark you will see many posts matching your that might help

[Pete in NH]

Hi,

There could be any number of things that got disturbed during the engine work you did. I would start by looking at this as two separate problems, no key cranking and weak spark. They may turn out to be related but also may not be related.

On not cranking with the key, if it's an automatic check the neutral start safety switch on the transmission and its connector/ wiring. The  bulk head connector pins can also be a problem as mentioned earlier. A test meter or test light can help see if the starter relay terminal is getting 12 volts when the key is turned.

The chrome box Mopar ECU would use a two pin ballast resistor. You would connect it between the negative coil lead which will also have the ING 2 Usually brown wire on one side and the blue ING 1 run lead on the other. The four pin ballast resistor was only used with the first generation Chrysler ECU's not the later Mopar Performance units.

[Back N Black]

 Checked the pick up air gap inside distributor, should be 0.008 and use a brass feeler gauge.

[motoreese]

hello again,

I have electric ignition. I have swapped the orange box out with the chrome one and ordered a new wire harness from year one. My buddy steve told me i needed the HU197BM which was for the 69 Dodge charger with the 70+ upgraded units. Different voltage regulator, and different alternator. Thing is when i first had the issue i put everything back the was it was i even had pictures for references.

I have a new starter the B&M ministarter. If i jump between terminals on the new starter relay box the car will turn over, if i put the key to RUN and hit the starter button it rotates with a weak spark at the spark plug. No crank from the key, i have climbed under the car and made sure the linkage on the transmission was in park. Pulled wires out of the transmission to make sure it was seated right still nothing, even in neutral.

Trying to think what else I have tried...anymore suggestions?

[XH29N0G]

If you have a wiring diagram and an ohm meter (multimeter) you can try to trace the connections from one place to another.  This might help.  How do you know you have a weak versus a strong spark?  See what others say.

[motoreese]

Hello again...good news and bad!!
GOOD: Got the car running, it was the neutral safety switch that was preventing it from cranking. Hooded everything up and it fired right up, by buddy tweaked the distributor a little, hit with timing light and she sounded and ran beautiful!!!!

Now the BAD: we were letting it idle at 2k or around there to break in the new cam and she started squealing so I shut down immediately. After checking everything I tried to start again and it feels like the starter is jamming up.
I'll have to look at it tomorrow!